This video came just in the nick of time! I had just mounted my Joe's WO on my GPA and was going to start it without any tinkering first just to see how it preformed. Then I came across the Team G503 half-hour video that recommended a thorough strip down and reset before mounting and firing up. I dreaded the thought, figuring I'd lose a screw or mess something up and never get my GPA running. After seeing your video I'm back to plan A - fire it up and see how it preforms, then adjust IF necessary. Thanks John!
You just saved me from buying a new carb. My jeep was running super rich like the idle air screw was shut off and still running. This was the problem. Thanks for taking time to make a well done video that got straight to the point.
I finally bit the bullet and dropped in the new WO from Joe's too. Checked the float, which was off a tiny bit, and set the metering rod per factory specs first to see how it performed. It wasn't right. Just like most other have experienced, it idles fine but craps out when slowly coming off idle. So I tried this method Greendot 319 suggests and still no go. It runs so rich you can just about choke from the exhaust. The accel pump is doing it's thing and revs up just fine when punching the throttle. All vacuum leaks have been fixed, and I get a solid 20-21 in. of vacuum. Timing is right on as well as the dwell. I cannot get this sucker to operate right at all. If anyone has some good ideas, I'm all ears. :O)
@@Greendot319 Hi buddy. I really wasn't expecting a reply, at least not so quick. Thank you. I agree, something must be wrong internally. I'll reach out to RFJP and see if they will offer some help. And yes, I'm in Arizona. I watch all your videos and enjoy them all.
Would you think this might be my problem? I have a 48 with a WO and it idles beautifully. When I start to drive it or put my foot in the throttle it sputters at higher RPMs. I'm lucky to get to 40-45mph in 3rd and by then it's sputtering. I do smell fuel when I shut down too. Thanks.
I took the carb off and made sure it was fine. A few weeks later, it just stopped. I had to choke it, but it idled. I replaced the fuel pump and now my jeep idles fine, but as soon as I push down on the accelerator, it revs a little bit and stalls out. Do you know what could be wrong? My dad threw out dirt or something in the carb.
Thank you, because I wanted to orient myself on the restoration of the Carter WO 539 S (8 Patern) carburetor but currently not found at home, so I will go to this one. There is really nothing to change, we can mount it directly on the jeep such as?
it's not a slower throttle, the metering rod only comes into play above 20mph. If you have a 'flat' spot when accelerating that is due to the accelerator pump, you need to dive into your accelerator pump and look at your plunger, that is probably where the problem lies! ;)
If, when you jab the throttle, it works, but not when you open the throttle slowly, it definitely points to the high speed needle not adjusted high enough, as your accelerator pump seems to be working, as the big squirt of fuel momentarily eliminates any flat spot. As the low and intermediate speed jets are coming to the end of their ability to supply enough gas, the high speed needle should be just lifting off its seat, allowing fuel to flow through the main jet. You should hear a 'crackling' sound from the venturi as the fuel starts to bubble through . So try raising the needle just a tiny bit. Loosen the small nut and raise the nut, pin and needle assembly just a bit. You can do it with the engine stopped, and move the needle up the slot, or with the engine running, which is a little bit more complicated but gives instant feedback.
@@autophyte Understood, but in this video, he points out that the needle can be dropped right onto the seat. As in no adjustment. I do have the gauge, and it does run when adjusted there. Just wondering how its compensated for...
@@johnqpublic9074 I'll make a video to show you what I mean. I don't have any editing software so it will be rough- just a continuous video with all errors etc in it. It will be on my channel. th-cam.com/video/aGBnPVXDnWQ/w-d-xo.html
@@johnqpublic9074 I was waiting for a answer to,This metering rod seems to be the heart of the operation,I adjusted my rod with the gauge to see what happens,the old carb on my cj2a has the issue you speak of and in my case I think its due to a worn out throttle shaft causing a vac leak , we will see
That doesn’t work on the jmp carb I’ve just bought I’ve had to have metering rod as high as I can get it otherwise the jeep spluttered when you put it into 1st gear and move off and idling screw was loose it kept winding itself out so idle speed was affected .
Whoa!!Nice reproduction part.But i m afraid with all these reproductions parts, at the end a novice cannot know if a jeep is original or not!!!A total copy of jeep can cost same price has a ww2 jeep because of ignorance of vehicule.We need several experience in jeeps for know if it's reproductions parts...and even sometimes i don't know for sure!!
This video came just in the nick of time! I had just mounted my Joe's WO on my GPA and was going to start it without any tinkering first just to see how it preformed. Then I came across the Team G503 half-hour video that recommended a thorough strip down and reset before mounting and firing up. I dreaded the thought, figuring I'd lose a screw or mess something up and never get my GPA running. After seeing your video I'm back to plan A - fire it up and see how it preforms, then adjust IF necessary. Thanks John!
Awesome. My carburetor started to overfill with gas the other month and I played with it to stop the flooding. Ever since then my plugs have been ashy
It works perfectly. No flat spots, very responsive.
You just saved me from buying a new carb. My jeep was running super rich like the idle air screw was shut off and still running. This was the problem. Thanks for taking time to make a well done video that got straight to the point.
Great info. Have the same carb and will check that out. Thanks.
Great video!
Very clear explanation, thank you.
Thanks, very helpful.
Brilliant tip - thanks!
Very helpful! Thank you!
I finally bit the bullet and dropped in the new WO from Joe's too. Checked the float, which was off a tiny bit, and set the metering rod per factory specs first to see how it performed. It wasn't right. Just like most other have experienced, it idles fine but craps out when slowly coming off idle. So I tried this method Greendot 319 suggests and still no go. It runs so rich you can just about choke from the exhaust. The accel pump is doing it's thing and revs up just fine when punching the throttle. All vacuum leaks have been fixed, and I get a solid 20-21 in. of vacuum. Timing is right on as well as the dwell. I cannot get this sucker to operate right at all. If anyone has some good ideas, I'm all ears. :O)
I imagine you are in the US? If in the UK I could take a look for you. Sounds like there is an internal issue somewhere with yours
@@Greendot319 Hi buddy. I really wasn't expecting a reply, at least not so quick. Thank you. I agree, something must be wrong internally. I'll reach out to RFJP and see if they will offer some help. And yes, I'm in Arizona. I watch all your videos and enjoy them all.
I just changed out fouled plugs today. Definitely going to check this!
Good to know
Absouloutly brilliant than you / John
No problem!
Would you think this might be my problem? I have a 48 with a WO and it idles beautifully. When I start to drive it or put my foot in the throttle it sputters at higher RPMs. I'm lucky to get to 40-45mph in 3rd and by then it's sputtering. I do smell fuel when I shut down too. Thanks.
I took the carb off and made sure it was fine. A few weeks later, it just stopped. I had to choke it, but it idled. I replaced the fuel pump and now my jeep idles fine, but as soon as I push down on the accelerator, it revs a little bit and stalls out. Do you know what could be wrong? My dad threw out dirt or something in the carb.
Why don't you put unit markings on your jeep
Thank you, because I wanted to orient myself on the restoration of the Carter WO 539 S (8 Patern) carburetor but currently not found at home, so I will go to this one.
There is really nothing to change, we can mount it directly on the jeep such as?
yep, straight on
Are you okay?
I've tried this but end up with a "flat" spot just off idle. If I jab the gas it works, (assume accelerator pump) but a slower throttle is a no go...
it's not a slower throttle, the metering rod only comes into play above 20mph. If you have a 'flat' spot when accelerating that is due to the accelerator pump, you need to dive into your accelerator pump and look at your plunger, that is probably where the problem lies! ;)
If, when you jab the throttle, it works, but not when you open the throttle slowly, it definitely points to the high speed needle not adjusted high enough, as your accelerator pump seems to be working, as the big squirt of fuel momentarily eliminates any flat spot.
As the low and intermediate speed jets are coming to the end of their ability to supply enough gas, the high speed needle should be just lifting off its seat, allowing fuel to flow through the main jet. You should hear a 'crackling' sound from the venturi as the fuel starts to bubble through . So try raising the needle just a tiny bit. Loosen the small nut and raise the nut, pin and needle assembly just a bit. You can do it with the engine stopped, and move the needle up the slot, or with the engine running, which is a little bit more complicated but gives instant feedback.
@@autophyte Understood, but in this video, he points out that the needle can be dropped right onto the seat. As in no adjustment. I do have the gauge, and it does run when adjusted there. Just wondering how its compensated for...
@@johnqpublic9074 I'll make a video to show you what I mean. I don't have any editing software so it will be rough- just a continuous video with all errors etc in it. It will be on my channel. th-cam.com/video/aGBnPVXDnWQ/w-d-xo.html
@@johnqpublic9074 I was waiting for a answer to,This metering rod seems to be the heart of the operation,I adjusted my rod with the gauge to see what happens,the old carb on my cj2a has the issue you speak of and in my case I think its due to a worn out throttle shaft causing a vac leak , we will see
Do we use the same procedure for an original Carter WO Carb ?
Yes it is ;)
That doesn’t work on the jmp carb I’ve just bought I’ve had to have metering rod as high as I can get it otherwise the jeep spluttered when you put it into 1st gear and move off and idling screw was loose it kept winding itself out so idle speed was affected .
I could marry you ....but the wife might object :-).. thanXX for the tip and info
Whoa!!Nice reproduction part.But i m afraid with all these reproductions parts, at the end a novice cannot know if a jeep is original or not!!!A total copy of jeep can cost same price has a ww2 jeep because of ignorance of vehicule.We need several experience in jeeps for know if it's reproductions parts...and even sometimes i don't know for sure!!