After 35 years of dealing with WW II jeeps, I found that the most common way they are destroyed, is when a collector disassembles it and for some reason they never get it back together.
Same with old landrovers , they get bought, stripped and then when the hard work needs to start they buy another one , then repeat. These folks are generally the first to get upset if someone saves a scrap one and fits big tyres to it though 🤨
Sadly this happened to mine. about 30 years or so my dad bought our jeep from our neighbor, took it apart and mostly restored it. Then he began building our house and since then it stood in a barn without a gearbox. The gearbox lost to times 2019 because of Covid we had the time to fix it up. Now since it stood for so long there is a bit rust and gunk build up in the cooling channels of the Engine and it overheats. Thats the next part we do
Another good winter tip for the army jeep - switch to the proper Winter weight oil recommended in the manuals. Summer weight oil will suffer poor flow and struggle to warm up even if you are getting the engine fully warmed up. Oil is cheap, engines aren’t.
That's one of the reasons we went to multi-weight oils in the 50s. Even with modern engines, idling cars to let the engine warm up (especially in cold weather) is bad for the engine because oil may not get distributed in the engine the way it should. Just crank it, put it in gear and drive.
We’re doing a partial restoration on my dad’s 1943 MB. Brakes, wheel bearings, gas lines, carb, steering, etc. It runs surprisingly good. Drives like a high end shopping cart. Has been in several parades and doesn’t overheat. It’s a blast to drive! And yes we actually got it running and didn’t just sit on it for fifteen years!
My first car was a 1965 Mustang with a 3 speed manual transmission. It was nonsencronized in first and reverse just like the one you described in your Jeep. I can definitely relate to what you were saying about shifting into first while still moving. I did the same thing: stop before putting it in first. It was hard to do this in heavy traffic. This car was my daily driver for several years.
Stopping is the only way to really ensure no transmission damage/wear unless you are very well practiced at double declutching! Mustang as first driver is impressive, only 3 speed though!
That's the Ford 3.03 "Top loader" 3 speed, it came in the Mustang and just about every other Ford of the era, Galaxies, Fairlanes, Falcons, Trucks, and obviously the Mustang. And it actually DOES have synchros in first. Rebuilt several over the years. It's not synchroed in reverse though you're right about that. Not sure when you had yours but it might've had worn first gear synchros to the point where it didn't seem synchronized, but I promise you it had them.
@@josephg41 I've always heard that first didn't have synchros back then. I have a 61 F-100 and a 68 F-100 and you have to be stopped to get them into first. It's no big deal for me.
@@josephg41 You must have built the type used with the V8 or larger 6 cylinder. My car had a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder. The type used with the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder(64 1/2) and the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder 65 model were only synchronized in 2nd and third. V8 models were synchronized in first. I had to rebuild mine. It only had one syncronizer.
Talking about changing gears: I had the courage with old cars changing gears without using the clutch at all: Just like you said ask, don't tell. It is a bit more tricky downshifting than upshifting. You must rev the engine up high and put the gear in very swiftly. And I agree: The worst thing for your old cars is this terrible ethanol in your tank! Once in the States I could not get ethanol free gas. A brandnew carburettor was flooded with a stuck needle in the desert! It is a miracle that the car did not burn to the ground. A hit with the hammer on the carb fixed the problem once and for all.
It's easier to not use the clutch than double, declutchin. A Clutch is a mechanic device the assist in lining up the speed of the engine to the gearbox. So if you rev the engine to the correct speed, the clutch isn't necessary. I use to demonstrate that in a Bedford MJ on the vehicle park. Going up the box from 1st to 4th then back down to first. Although once your driving I can see why you would go down to 1st.
I learned this on the utility vehicle I was taught to drive stick on, it’s amazing to me people try to recommend this method on modern cars with synchros and that seriously breaks things. But yeah, totally legitimate on semis, trucks, things with “rough and tough” gearboxes, good skill to learn
@@austinclark8727 It's a lot harder to do with a synchro box and you can indeed do a lot of damage - absolutely no snatching gears in quick like a non synchronised constant mesh box. The trick to it is patience, when it's the right time, it'll just fall in more or less by itself with next to force on the gear lever. It takes a lot of practice and knowing the vehicle well. Taught myself to do it years ago in work vans to give my left leg a rest in heavy traffic.
Enjoyed this very much. Mine’s not. Military Jeep but a ‘53 3A. It’s been part of our family since 1968. It it still the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned and I love it sooooo much. Keep up the awesome work and here’s wishing you a Happy Christmas!
That made me laugh Matt. Why? So spot-on especially on the gearchanges. I must admit to the 'stopped before first is engaged' as the second gear will allow slow running etc so only need first rarely. I so look forward to these videos !!!!! Many thanks for 'braving the cold' to bring us 'jeepers' these !!!! Happy X'mas to ya .
Good advices, and applicable to a lot of older cars and machinery. Some of this I even learned at driving school, mid eighties. My car is not old, but I‘ve got a boat. Every two months during winter I fire up the almost 30 year old Yanmar diesel (6000 hours and still in good nick). Mainly to charge the batteries. After start, oil pressure check and cooling check, i rise the revs to around 1200 rpm, well above idle, but below the rpm where the turbo really kicks in, get some heat, then engage gear and leave to run for at least 45 minutes. (The moorings won’t suffer). Then check charging (ammeter) and voltage. This will charge the start battery (the drive train is insulated from house batteries and shore power charger to avoid galvanic corrosion), remove condensation from oil, heat the engine bay (to get rid of any damp), and clean the prop from recent fouling. Works well. No engine trouble the 6-7 years I‘ve owned the boat. And now I want a JEEP. Again!
@@Greendot319 I COULD afford the jeep, but there are no private garages in our neighbourhood. Just 200-300 year old wooden houses and steep, narrow alleys.That’s why I gave up classic cars. Tried to restore a Vitesse 2L, but had to drive a really long way to the car. Too cumbersome.
In the 90s I helped my dad build a Jeep from mostly NOS parts (I was 14 at the time, so I didn't do anything technical) and we drove it a lot. It's still at my mom's house and after my dad passed away it's been sitting in the garage. I always told my mom not to sell it because it holds so many good memories of me and my father and now I moved to a house with a garage and this summer I'm going to replace all the fluids and attempt to start it to drive it home :-) I found and subscribed to your channel yesterday and I really appreciate the content from which I already learned loads!
You always do a great job. That's why you have a great Jeep. I have the t 14 a and t150 transmissions. I don't go in 1st unless very slight movement or normally a dead stop. If someone is behind me they may have to wait a second. I won't tear them up worried about the other guy unless we're talking life or death.
Handling those crash (no syncromesh) gearboxes really is a learned skill. Eventually you can reach the point where you can kind of feel that the engine is at the correct RPM. It's not really something I can explain, but I occasionally drive a series 2 Land Rover. Crash gears on first and second, syncromesh on third and fourth. Shifting gears upwards is a lot easier than downshifting though.
I was never really good with nonsynchro boxes, ironic since the first vehicle I learned to drive was an old tractor with a 3 speed crash box. But now that I installed a "new" gearbox in my old Peugeot 309, I found that the 2nd gear synchro is knackered on it after I put it in. Oh well, been learning to drive with it now, it's not too hard once you get it down.
I drive a 61 lwb rover every day. I don’t even think about changing up, it’s ingrained now and giving a little blip and coming back 3 to2 is easily accomplished but a down shift to 1 I’ll only do at walking pace, and you can feel the dogs! The synchro on third is a bit knackered and my worst changes are 4 to 3 where sometimes it’s slick and occasionally I should have dipped the clutch as the synchro hasn’t worked as expected. I’ve seen Landrovers advertised on eBay where they say the gearbox has all the gears but first to second is very noisy. Pig ignorant owner alert.
I drive a cmv non synchronized the trick to up and downshifting nonsynchronized transmissions is double clutching... At the rate of- clutch in... Outta gear... Release&Rev... clutch in... in gear. At the pace of quarter to half beat (those musically inclined wheels on the bus/ muffin man).
With asking the gearbox to change gear like that you'll find it'll slide in without the clutch! That's a way we were trained in mechanics for safety if anything happend to the breaks and you had to down shift to stop!
All good tips there. I always try to let my engine run up to operating temperature. I actually bottled out of a drive today because of the salty roads. I'd love to know where to find a hull compass like yours, haven't been able to source one anywhere. Any ideas? Thanks, Peter
Thanks Peter, I'm avoiding the salt this year and from now on, it isn't fair on these vehicles. About Hull compasses sadly its just a matter of finding one, no supplies of them sorry to say :/
I'll add to the point of only running an engine until barely warm (not full op. temp) is not only do you not get rid of the condensation, you actually make the issue worse every time you run it. Every time you a barely warm block cools down, even more condensation forms and it just continuously builds up. I'm a forklift mechanic and it's the biggest issue we get with LPG/propane trucks. Start up, move one pallet, turn off, repeat several times a day. By the time the service comes round the oil looks like you've blown a head gasket. Many times I've drained a pint or more of straight water out the sump and frequently rocker covers are full of white emulsion.
This is excellent advice not just for old Jeeps, but old cars in general. Only thing that doesn't apply as much for my Power Wagon is the splash lubrication, and the only thing that doesn't apply to my Model T is the downshifting technique. Just all around very good information for anyone getting into old vehicles!
Nice video. Good advice about warming up splash-oiled engines. All vehicles of that era required regular lubrication by the operator. The “lube job” was as ubiquitous as todays oil change service. Some cars had an oil can mounted under the hood for all the linkages that required regular lubrication. With regard to shifting, there is almost no circumstance in which you would want to downshift into first while still moving (maybe trying to maintain momentum up a steep hill?). If the vehicle is moving at all, second gear is good enough. Second gear is also good for stopping the cluster gear to allow quick shifts from neutral into first or reverse when the clutch is first depressed at a stop. At a stop, shift into second after depressing the clutch, and you’ll then be able to get into first or reverse more easily.
I've got a 1928 model A roadster and it too has actually no synchronized gears at all so double clutching is just sowing you have to do all the time eventually you get used to it
I had a 48 Willys CJ2A, (essentially the same as the MB), and I downshifted into 1st gear on the fly regularly, without using the clutch. While coasting in 2nd, and with a little teasing of the throttle, you can easily slip it out of 2nd into neutral, and then, again by teasing the throttle, drop it into 1st without so much as a gear scrape. I used this technique years later, on my 88 Ford bronco, when the clutch failed.
An ol Army Sgt, US Army 78-92. My squad leader had a pretty good sense of humor as well as a practical joker. We had the M-151 jeeps in West Germany. He told the driver that October is here and he needs to take the Jeep up to maintenance and change out the summer for winter air in the tires. The Maintenance Sgt E-7 came over to my Squad leader and told him don't do that again all my mechanics are rolling around laughing so hard they can't get any work done. The driver took it in stride. At 1600 hrs formation the 1,st Sgt told the Company that there is no reason to change the air in your tires because winter is here.😂😂😂
I recommend anyone with a strong affection to this vehicle to buy one, even if it’s in crappy condition. I’ve restored 31 Military Vehicles since 1993 and in those, I restored 2 Willy’s MB Jeeps (both 1945 dated) back to factory original condition. The assessment is the critical part of the process, you may have an MB but find it has a bunch of rare Ford parts on it. Know what the correct dash panel gauges look like and what shape they’re in. The engine bay may look like homemade sin but it doesn’t take much to bring it back to glory. For paint, buy some 319 OD green from RAPCO, Gelispie coatings is the best paint, I usually bought a case of the paint pressed into spray cans and had a gallon to paint the body with. By having the spray cans, this allows you to paint each smaller parts/pieces as you restore them little by little, don’t leave the part without any paint or primer on them since sometimes people will pause a restoration and a couple years of rust can set in. Wallace Tires sells new tires and tubes for these, make sure you have some “combat wheels” so you can change the tires in your garage but be careful. MD Juan makes excellent reproduction body parts but in the early 90’s, they were pretty bad which meant I had to make changes to a part to make it correct. Don’t mess with restoring the fuel tank, I just ordered a new reproduction tank from G503.com, Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep parts, Ron knows what he’s doing and has excellent parts sourced from around the world. Good luck on finding the original radio and accessories, pretty hard to locate but it is possible. I always carried some spare ignition parts just in case but it never let me down to need them. Setting the valves in the engine is very important as well as using correct oil. It’ll cost around $4,000 in all the parts for a full restoration to original condition but some will leave the engine and power system alone if it was “civilianized” to 12 volt. I used an 8 volt battery for the original 6 volt starter so it had a little more power to turn over the starter, it makes a big difference! For the voltage regulator, it’s simple to hollow out an old original regulator and install a newer 8 volt regulator then paint the original regulator with “crinkle paint” for that paint, go to a,local Harley Davidson dealer and buy a can there or you should fine some online I suppose. Just remember to NEVER use Phillips screws! They only used slot screws for these vehicles during the war. Everything this gentleman said is great knowledge for you to remember and keep an eye out for fuel leaks since sometimes people didn’t properly tighten the fuel lines during the restoration or, they made a mistake on the flanging on the fuel lines. The transmission is pretty bullet proof so inspect it carefully and it’ll likely be in good shape but if not, replace the damaged parts. For windshield glass, just visit any local glass shop and have them sell you some safety glass panels to the dimensions you provide them, it’s a lot cheaper than ordering them but make sure you get a price quote first, I’ve seen a glass shop want to charge me an insane price for a $50 panel. Doing the restoration requires basic knowledge but read up on the details so you know what to look for and ask questions to someone you trust if you’re not sure. Yes, these Jeeps are expensive but that’s why you’re buying a project vehicle. Make sure you know what the correct Jeep engine looks like since a lot of people would slap in some other 4 cylinder engine if they needed to. Each engine has a casting number down by the lower side of the block, that’s how you know exactly what you have. There’s some great people in this hobby and they will assist if you’re polite and show a little gratitude, there’s a lot of military vehicle clubs around the country so check in your area for one and visit a couple meetings. Those clubs will often have events where they horsetrade/sell parts that you may need and at much better prices than ebay!
7:38 A few suggestions regarding double declutching: 1) Learn to double de-clutch in a modern vehicle, not your expensive reconditioned ageing jeep. 2) Double de-clutching when changing up gears is easier than when changing down gear; learn that first. 3) Once you've learnt to double de-clutch, do it for all gears changes, up or down, to save wear and tear on your expensive reconditioned ageing jeep gearbox.
With airplanes, we have a rule NEVER idle below 1000 rpm. Something I have always done for my jeeps is run either 85L or 100LL in them some people say that 100LL will destroy those engines however, these engines are (aledgedly) a low enough compression that the valves will not over heat. I personally have never had one show any signs of damage when running on 100LL. I prefer 85L because that is what old flat fenders were designed to run on. Also you can leave avgas in the jeep for a lot longer than you can with mogas or unleaded. Edit: added things I thought would be helpful
Good content. You're bang-on on all counts. On point 4 - Downshifting: Mine is different, and may operate different, and I've never driven an MB - mine's a '48 CJ2A, so the trans is different ( a T90 vs a T84) as are the axle gears (5.38:1 vs 4.88:1), but I never downshift below 2nd while driving. If I'm taking a rolling corner, 2nd is fine. The engine has enough torque to make it happen. I only shift to first at a complete stop.
Great Video. Always wanted a jeep. Subscribed. Any reciprocating piston engine should be warmed up for 15 mins to allow the oil to reach it's correct working temp. Just that no one can be bothered waiting that long. Which is why engines wear out quicker while they are pumping cold oil around. I want a jeep that looks original but has a modern engine transmission and brakes.
All the non country boy Texans will think this is the redneckest story. I learned how to drive on a military jeep. Not ones as old as this. I don’t know their age but they were probably made in the 70s. Much of my family worked at ft hood. When the military switched to hummers, they had a bunch of old jeeps. The military would usually just throw them in a junk yard. They never cared much about waste. My uncle knew people there and could buy stuff. He bought two jeeps and 8 motors for parts. He’d put a roping seat on the front and we used it to rope cows. It wasn’t as good as a horse usually but occasionally is you had a big wild one it was better because they’d charge or possibly pull down a horse. I remember one taking off after someone and almost got him . Luckily this large cow was about 5 feet from hooking him when she hit the end of the rope. She couldn’t budge the jeep and was pulled over backwards. Those things would go anywhere. I was shocked at how much they could do with just stick parts and basic military tires. I learned how to drive it when I was probably 12. It had a push button starter like the one in the video but on the floor behind the clutch. For those unfamiliar, that was the old way of making sure you didn’t start it in gear and left a way to start it in gear if need be. One summer the battery was bad so id just park it on a hill every time I was done driving for the day and then throw it in 3rd and push start it on the hill. I even heard stories of my dad and uncle when they were younger turning one over. They just tied a horse to it and pulled it back on its tires. I had lots of fun times when I was young driving one of those around.
I don't have a Jeep but have run a 65 Mustang for over 25 years. I like driving it so I do drive in the winter months. Fortunately in the UK there are suitable days in the winter months where there is no snow salt or rain on the roads. I totally agree that if you start the engine then it is essential to give the vehicle a good run. I take the Mustang on the motorway and cruise for around 10 miles at 70mph. Probably difficult in the Jeep but the idea is to make it work. I would also say it is important to brim the fuel tank. I had one tank rot through at the top. This was due to condensation. I also think for the winter a battery conditioner is a good thing to have. Not sure if you can get 6v ones though?
Well done mastering double de clutching.....I learnt it prob 50 plus years ago....on old landrovers....and the heavy trucks.....no syncro on any gears on trucks back then. Re modern oil.....far as I know....fully synthetic oil is not as good at protecting internals as mineral or semi synthetic. I have no idea what oil you guys use in your Jeeps....but worth bearing in mind. I winter I put a bung in my exhaust tail pipe.
pushing in the 1st gear while the vehicle is moving is still on modern synchronized gearboxes not so good, if someone have a good sensible feeling you can feel the gear don't want to get in easy until very very low speeds maybe 5km/h or lower i feel this on every new car also... i hate it when people doing this, i am a oldschool mechanic 😆 i love how you said "ASK DON'T TELL" oh and yes 100% agree with all you said about parking an engine over winter.... i have the best results with putting some ATF oil into the cylinders, still afters years not a single point of rust or anything on the cyl walls or rings and positive side effect it loosens up the piston rings if there is some carbon buildup ;) very nice jeep and video thanks for it
I was used to double clutch and all those things Fourty years ago driving unsynchronised trucks and offroad vehicles. I bet I would make quite scratchy gear changes today until I would get used to it again. My old Chevies have the same system: Unsynchronised first, but synchronised second and third. Honestly I nearly always put the first only after stopping. Those Chevy six cylinder engines are very torqy so no need to put it into first while driving. Sometimes I show people that you can start driving the car in the third gear.
Had one, and worked on others, most people don't know that there are 37 grease points. Also, the older engines, if a Willys-built Jeep the crank, is not balanced and they don't take to fast engine speeds, this problem stayed till 1948 with Willys. Compounding the problem is that the Willys had 5.38 gears. Now the Ford Jeeps had a balanced crankshaft and 4.88 finals, so they can go at a faster road speed. My suggestion is to look for an "F" on the head bolts. Actually, the Ford engine has a better design, and the lube system is far superior. Get good at double clutching or get good at transmission rebuilds. The steering is, well it somewhat works if you are strong enough and don't mind road wondering.
willys mb had a balanced rotating assembly and 4.88 gears. the ford gpw is practically identical as it is the willys design manufactured by ford. the two main differences in the engine is the ford one was painted grey and used head studs. 5.38 gears weren't used on ww2 jeeps they were used on post war Jeep cj's for more pulling power.
Im learning all the time, I had no idea that the ford engines had balanced cranks and the willys didnt ? I saw a balance weight on the crank of a 42 ford gpw I am restoring and thought it must be an engine from a generator as apparently they had a balanced crank?
Being in Canada I sure know about warming the car up. I have to say it is also important to consider the transmission and drive train all in all . I have been in such cold weather that even with a new truck it took a minute or so before the truck would move when the truck was in drive due to the fluids being so cold and thick . Once it got going it was fine but each day I would drive slow and easy for the first number of miles in the winter
hi. it was normal for us to double-de-clutch in the 60s with cars and land rovers, the yonger generation coming up now find it mind bogaling. its not a big deal just normal driving whether its an austin 7 or jeep
Not sure about draining down the fuel system. On my classic motorcycles I always top up the fuel tanks (with Esso E5) prior to storing away for the winter. This is to stop any corrosion forming inside the walls the tank. I also use a fuel stabiliser called Sta-Bil, this helps keep the fuel fresh and discourages corrission. I run the engine with the fuel tap in the off position to empty the fuel pipes and carburettor. My bikes always start and run nicely come the springtime.
My uncle used to have a mint condition surplus 1948 Willys Jeep back in the 70s. He kept it at my grandma's house in her garage and used to drive me around in it as a kid for fun. Unfortunately he sold it to another collector sometime in the 1990s.
Thank for the tips! I still haven't figured out the double clutch, I just skid around the corners sideways, Duke of Hazards style and holler "hang on"!! 🤪 I've got so much to do and so little time! Love my jeep! -Cheers! -S (GPW7220)
@@Greendot319 probably. Being a millennial I'll never have something quite that cool. I have been looking at buying a Jeep Compass for my next vehicle (probably why your video ended up on my feed)
However people are destroying their Jeeps today..... It's still better than the way they were originally destroyed.!!! I have a 1/6 scale RC Jeep by Roc hobby & it's honestly a work of art, it's literally a display grade model you can drive. It has all the pioneer tools, a .50 cal on a pintle, canvas seats, foldable windscreen, opening bonnet with a detailed engine & the steering wheel is on a servo so it turns left & right... When you fit a scale GI figure with movable arms it looks bloody awesome.!! It's super capable too.!.. It'll go almost anywhere. You can get a canvas top & a trailer too. The only concession to performance over realism is that they've made it with coilover suspension... But you can get a leaf spring conversion kit if you want. They also do a 1/12 scale version that is leaf sprung as standard, it's every bit as detailed & realistic with the canvas top & trailer available too. The 1/12 one costs around £200 & the 1/6 is around £330 ish. Roc hobby do all sorts of other vehicles too, they do a Type 82 Kubelwagen, a Type 82E (Beetle) Kommandeurwagen, a sweet looking Unimog & various civilian off road vehicles from the 50's up to modern stuff. Roc hobby/FMS hobby/Eazy rc (same company) have really taken the scale hard body RC sector by storm this past 18 months, sometimes releasing 2 new models a month.!!!! Unheard off.! Each RC is better than the last with some hobby firsts like 1/18 scaled 2 speed gearboxes & portal axles.. All metal geared too.!! A wee tip.. Roc is the premium one, FMS is mid tier & Eazy RC the budget one with cheaper electronics... But they're fundamentally the same models.. Anyways.. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE & BEST WISHES FROM SCOTLAND 🏴 🙏 ♥
I've never driven one of these but having driven big trucks and shifting without using the clutch I wonder if it works the same way; just match the speed with the RPMs.
Hello, I watch your interesting videos. I would like to ask where can I buy the cap you are wearing :-) I've been looking for this cap in a bigger size for a long time. Thank you. Best regards Standa
The run down to first is my biggest fear driving around, most people are really understanding at the complete stop or attempted first blip, because these vehicles are so old. I usually give a wave, last weekend I got a return "YOU CAN DO IT!"
RTFM always a good start. But with modern oil and a oil additive, you can drive straight away. With boxes without synchros, just offer the gear leaver with gentle pressure really rev the engine high and as it go through the range the gear stick will almost pull out of your hand. Lots of revs, knowing your range v road speed, and don't even bother with the clutch.
I remember my dad used to do that every morning with any of his car's he loved his volvo's he used to sit outside for 5 10 mins waiting for the engine to warm-up he even has me doing it today withy own! He drilled that into my head from a kid don't just start you motor n take off let it get up to temp! Old skool but I've never had an issue
Skill testing question: Which way around should the jerry can be installed? With the filler neck towards the outside, or facing towards the spare tyre?
most of these points is just basic care and driving of ANY pre 70 vehicle. I learned to drive in mid 60s trucks without synchro first and first gen OHV engines. Todays cars are so simple to maintain and operate no one learns. TY for the info and remember y'all this applies to ALL pre 70 cars and trucks
On extended idling, cj2a runs same drive train with addition of pto and my case flatbelt pulley. It'll idle for days no problem, usto to run a corn mill with one.
brilliant but you forgot to tell us about puting the bag accross the radiator , I see you did it to yours and its a great idea, pity we cant buy a roller blind for the radiators like the early toyota landcruisers had so as soon as the temperature is up you can just roll up the blind, I had a Norwegian jeep that had one of these fitted standard and you could operate it from the drivers seat using a wire and a ring pull , I also get quite a few jeeps that have had the temperature thermostats removed so the jeep dousnt have a hope in hell of geting upto a decent working temperature , just working on onme nopw with thermostat removed but the thermostat housing has siezed bolts so im goinmg to put an in line retro fit thermostat in the one piece top hose , I know ist not very original looking but a dead easy quick way of getting it back to runninmg at the right temp without the worry of possibly shearing one of the three bolts and all the problems that brings
Double clutch shifting, clutch in take out of 2nd, clutch out, clutch in match rpm then shift into first gear. More or less the same for shifting a no synchro-mesh transmission up or down gears like large old trucks.
1970s cars had to be warmed up. Most people haven't had that experience. We idle aircraft at 1,000 rpm to keep them clean. You could also use a carcoon. Its an inflatable that you put you car in and it cleans and dries the air as it goes in.
Hi all I have a 1943 Ford GPW, stationed in Townsville Queensland Australia during WW2 US Marines Base section 3 Military Police. All matching Numbers and stock standard and still running 6 volt system and runs very well. Also I enjoy tuning into green dot I can send photos on request if interested Best regards Bill down under (Australia.😊
WHEN you start an engine that has been unused for some time and HAS a start-handle, then turn it over manually with no choke (!) a couple of times to lubricate the engine before starting it. This is especially important if it is cold.
Hey. always like your video's and your presenting is top notch! What I noticed about your jacket is that the way you currently buttoned it, it would belong to someone who would normally sit on the passenger seat. because this way the wind would not get in while driving. I have an original jeep coat made from sheep skin inside and it is buttoned the same way as yours. I was told (at Beltring) it was usually used by a soldier who was higher in rank, not the driver of the jeep.
Another tip for wwii jeep owners: every WWII jeep didn’t have a massive 50 cal gun mounted behind the front seats. In fact most wwii Jeep’s did not have machine guns mounted on them. Same goes for the M1919 30 cal. Keep your jeep light and simple.
Linkage lube s great but use besides a show takes care of most of that 4 ur Linkage as far as diff and frequent oil changes that's extremely important along w ft end grease synthetic b a huge help as well !
Double declutching just needs to be practised. The manual for my car, from 1927, before synchro arrived, says "the best conditions are provided by a slight down grade of sufficient slope to keep the car in uniform motion while the gear lever is in neutral",
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After 35 years of dealing with WW II jeeps, I found that the most common way they are destroyed, is when a collector disassembles it and for some reason they never get it back together.
Ha ha thats also true. A bad resto of a good unrestored jeep is the the top way to destroy one!
They guy I bought mine from said the same thing and that’s the first thing I did cause the frame was f***** but! 6 years later I’m almost done!
Exactly true. I rescued mine from such a state. Mostly torn apart, missing a bunch of parts, half 6v half 12v...
Same with old landrovers , they get bought, stripped and then when the hard work needs to start they buy another one , then repeat.
These folks are generally the first to get upset if someone saves a scrap one and fits big tyres to it though 🤨
Sadly this happened to mine. about 30 years or so my dad bought our jeep from our neighbor, took it apart and mostly restored it. Then he began building our house and since then it stood in a barn without a gearbox.
The gearbox lost to times 2019 because of Covid we had the time to fix it up.
Now since it stood for so long there is a bit rust and gunk build up in the cooling channels of the Engine and it overheats.
Thats the next part we do
Another good winter tip for the army jeep - switch to the proper Winter weight oil recommended in the manuals. Summer weight oil will suffer poor flow and struggle to warm up even if you are getting the engine fully warmed up. Oil is cheap, engines aren’t.
Multi-weight Ben, Multi-weight!
@@Greendot319 You know it!
I learned this lesson with my car and it's so sluggish and hates running in winter so I out the oil winter grade, fixed it quick.
That's one of the reasons we went to multi-weight oils in the 50s. Even with modern engines, idling cars to let the engine warm up (especially in cold weather) is bad for the engine because oil may not get distributed in the engine the way it should. Just crank it, put it in gear and drive.
Don't forget to change the air in the tires from summer air to winter air
😂😂😂.
We’re doing a partial restoration on my dad’s 1943 MB. Brakes, wheel bearings, gas lines, carb, steering, etc. It runs surprisingly good. Drives like a high end shopping cart. Has been in several parades and doesn’t overheat. It’s a blast to drive! And yes we actually got it running and didn’t just sit on it for fifteen years!
Drives like a high end shopping cart is a good description of the WW2 jeep
@@Greendot319 One does not sit _in_ a Jeep as much as _on_ it.
My first car was a 1965 Mustang with a 3 speed manual transmission. It was nonsencronized in first and reverse just like the one you described in your Jeep. I can definitely relate to what you were saying about shifting into first while still moving. I did the same thing: stop before putting it in first. It was hard to do this in heavy traffic. This car was my daily driver for several years.
Stopping is the only way to really ensure no transmission damage/wear unless you are very well practiced at double declutching! Mustang as first driver is impressive, only 3 speed though!
@@Greendot319 it was the base model. It had a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder with a 3 speed manual transmission.
That's the Ford 3.03 "Top loader" 3 speed, it came in the Mustang and just about every other Ford of the era, Galaxies, Fairlanes, Falcons, Trucks, and obviously the Mustang. And it actually DOES have synchros in first. Rebuilt several over the years. It's not synchroed in reverse though you're right about that. Not sure when you had yours but it might've had worn first gear synchros to the point where it didn't seem synchronized, but I promise you it had them.
@@josephg41 I've always heard that first didn't have synchros back then. I have a 61 F-100 and a 68 F-100 and you have to be stopped to get them into first. It's no big deal for me.
@@josephg41 You must have built the type used with the V8 or larger 6 cylinder. My car had a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder. The type used with the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder(64 1/2) and the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder 65 model were only synchronized in 2nd and third. V8 models were synchronized in first. I had to rebuild mine. It only had one syncronizer.
I don't own a WW2 era Jeep but I am a history major and am a giant nerd. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it, you don't have to own something or be the person the history is about to enjoy it! Have fun!
Talking about changing gears: I had the courage with old cars changing gears without using the clutch at all: Just like you said ask, don't tell. It is a bit more tricky downshifting than upshifting. You must rev the engine up high and put the gear in very swiftly.
And I agree: The worst thing for your old cars is this terrible ethanol in your tank! Once in the States I could not get ethanol free gas. A brandnew carburettor was flooded with a stuck needle in the desert! It is a miracle that the car did not burn to the ground. A hit with the hammer on the carb fixed the problem once and for all.
It's easier to not use the clutch than double, declutchin. A Clutch is a mechanic device the assist in lining up the speed of the engine to the gearbox. So if you rev the engine to the correct speed, the clutch isn't necessary. I use to demonstrate that in a Bedford MJ on the vehicle park. Going up the box from 1st to 4th then back down to first. Although once your driving I can see why you would go down to 1st.
I learned this on the utility vehicle I was taught to drive stick on, it’s amazing to me people try to recommend this method on modern cars with synchros and that seriously breaks things. But yeah, totally legitimate on semis, trucks, things with “rough and tough” gearboxes, good skill to learn
@@austinclark8727 It's a lot harder to do with a synchro box and you can indeed do a lot of damage - absolutely no snatching gears in quick like a non synchronised constant mesh box.
The trick to it is patience, when it's the right time, it'll just fall in more or less by itself with next to force on the gear lever. It takes a lot of practice and knowing the vehicle well.
Taught myself to do it years ago in work vans to give my left leg a rest in heavy traffic.
Enjoyed this very much. Mine’s not. Military Jeep but a ‘53 3A. It’s been part of our family since 1968. It it still the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned and I love it sooooo much.
Keep up the awesome work and here’s wishing you a Happy Christmas!
Thanks, same to you!
That made me laugh Matt. Why? So spot-on especially on the gearchanges. I must admit to the 'stopped before first is engaged' as the second gear will allow slow running etc so only need first rarely. I so look forward to these videos !!!!! Many thanks for 'braving the cold' to bring us 'jeepers' these !!!! Happy X'mas to ya .
Good advices, and applicable to a lot of older cars and machinery. Some of this I even learned at driving school, mid eighties. My car is not old, but I‘ve got a boat. Every two months during winter I fire up the almost 30 year old Yanmar diesel (6000 hours and still in good nick). Mainly to charge the batteries. After start, oil pressure check and cooling check, i rise the revs to around 1200 rpm, well above idle, but below the rpm where the turbo really kicks in, get some heat, then engage gear and leave to run for at least 45 minutes. (The moorings won’t suffer). Then check charging (ammeter) and voltage. This will charge the start battery (the drive train is insulated from house batteries and shore power charger to avoid galvanic corrosion), remove condensation from oil, heat the engine bay (to get rid of any damp), and clean the prop from recent fouling. Works well. No engine trouble the 6-7 years I‘ve owned the boat. And now I want a JEEP. Again!
All good precautions for the conscientious owner, get saving for that jeep
@@Greendot319 I COULD afford the jeep, but there are no private garages in our neighbourhood. Just 200-300 year old wooden houses and steep, narrow alleys.That’s why I gave up classic cars. Tried to restore a Vitesse 2L, but had to drive a really long way to the car. Too cumbersome.
In the 90s I helped my dad build a Jeep from mostly NOS parts (I was 14 at the time, so I didn't do anything technical) and we drove it a lot. It's still at my mom's house and after my dad passed away it's been sitting in the garage. I always told my mom not to sell it because it holds so many good memories of me and my father and now I moved to a house with a garage and this summer I'm going to replace all the fluids and attempt to start it to drive it home :-) I found and subscribed to your channel yesterday and I really appreciate the content from which I already learned loads!
You always do a great job. That's why you have a great Jeep. I have the t 14 a and t150 transmissions. I don't go in 1st unless very slight movement or normally a dead stop. If someone is behind me they may have to wait a second. I won't tear them up worried about the other guy unless we're talking life or death.
Handling those crash (no syncromesh) gearboxes really is a learned skill. Eventually you can reach the point where you can kind of feel that the engine is at the correct RPM. It's not really something I can explain, but I occasionally drive a series 2 Land Rover. Crash gears on first and second, syncromesh on third and fourth. Shifting gears upwards is a lot easier than downshifting though.
I was never really good with nonsynchro boxes, ironic since the first vehicle I learned to drive was an old tractor with a 3 speed crash box.
But now that I installed a "new" gearbox in my old Peugeot 309, I found that the 2nd gear synchro is knackered on it after I put it in. Oh well, been learning to drive with it now, it's not too hard once you get it down.
I drive a 61 lwb rover every day. I don’t even think about changing up, it’s ingrained now and giving a little blip and coming back 3 to2 is easily accomplished but a down shift to 1 I’ll only do at walking pace, and you can feel the dogs! The synchro on third is a bit knackered and my worst changes are 4 to 3 where sometimes it’s slick and occasionally I should have dipped the clutch as the synchro hasn’t worked as expected.
I’ve seen Landrovers advertised on eBay where they say the gearbox has all the gears but first to second is very noisy. Pig ignorant owner alert.
I drive a cmv non synchronized the trick to up and downshifting nonsynchronized transmissions is double clutching... At the rate of- clutch in... Outta gear... Release&Rev... clutch in... in gear. At the pace of quarter to half beat (those musically inclined wheels on the bus/ muffin man).
Great video!! The scenery totally takes you back as well. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, its a jeep playground round here
With asking the gearbox to change gear like that you'll find it'll slide in without the clutch! That's a way we were trained in mechanics for safety if anything happend to the breaks and you had to down shift to stop!
All good tips there. I always try to let my engine run up to operating temperature. I actually bottled out of a drive today because of the salty roads.
I'd love to know where to find a hull compass like yours, haven't been able to source one anywhere. Any ideas? Thanks, Peter
Thanks Peter, I'm avoiding the salt this year and from now on, it isn't fair on these vehicles. About Hull compasses sadly its just a matter of finding one, no supplies of them sorry to say :/
I am with you on not taking my jeep out with salt on the roads.
Salt is a killer on the body work
I'll add to the point of only running an engine until barely warm (not full op. temp) is not only do you not get rid of the condensation, you actually make the issue worse every time you run it.
Every time you a barely warm block cools down, even more condensation forms and it just continuously builds up.
I'm a forklift mechanic and it's the biggest issue we get with LPG/propane trucks.
Start up, move one pallet, turn off, repeat several times a day.
By the time the service comes round the oil looks like you've blown a head gasket. Many times I've drained a pint or more of straight water out the sump and frequently rocker covers are full of white emulsion.
Dead on. I see the same issues with tractors and semi trucks.
This is excellent advice not just for old Jeeps, but old cars in general. Only thing that doesn't apply as much for my Power Wagon is the splash lubrication, and the only thing that doesn't apply to my Model T is the downshifting technique. Just all around very good information for anyone getting into old vehicles!
Always look forward to it! I haven't taken mine out much since we had a baby, but I will when it snows!
Nice video. Good advice about warming up splash-oiled engines.
All vehicles of that era required regular lubrication by the operator. The “lube job” was as ubiquitous as todays oil change service. Some cars had an oil can mounted under the hood for all the linkages that required regular lubrication. With regard to shifting, there is almost no circumstance in which you would want to downshift into first while still moving (maybe trying to maintain momentum up a steep hill?). If the vehicle is moving at all, second gear is good enough. Second gear is also good for stopping the cluster gear to allow quick shifts from neutral into first or reverse when the clutch is first depressed at a stop. At a stop, shift into second after depressing the clutch, and you’ll then be able to get into first or reverse more easily.
I been a vw guy and instinctively hit 2nd before 1st or reverse.
My gearbox is from 1990 and still like new.
I've got a 1928 model A roadster and it too has actually no synchronized gears at all so double clutching is just sowing you have to do all the time eventually you get used to it
I had a 48 Willys CJ2A, (essentially the same as the MB), and I downshifted into 1st gear on the fly regularly, without using the clutch. While coasting in 2nd, and with a little teasing of the throttle, you can easily slip it out of 2nd into neutral, and then, again by teasing the throttle, drop it into 1st without so much as a gear scrape. I used this technique years later, on my 88 Ford bronco, when the clutch failed.
An ol Army Sgt, US Army 78-92.
My squad leader had a pretty good sense of humor as well as a practical joker. We had the M-151 jeeps in West Germany. He told the driver that October is here and he needs to take the Jeep up to maintenance and change out the summer for winter air in the tires. The Maintenance Sgt E-7 came over to my Squad leader and told him don't do that again all my mechanics are rolling around laughing so hard they can't get any work done.
The driver took it in stride. At 1600 hrs formation the 1,st Sgt told the Company that there is no reason to change the air in your tires because winter is here.😂😂😂
I recommend anyone with a strong affection to this vehicle to buy one, even if it’s in crappy condition. I’ve restored 31 Military Vehicles since 1993 and in those, I restored 2 Willy’s MB Jeeps (both 1945 dated) back to factory original condition. The assessment is the critical part of the process, you may have an MB but find it has a bunch of rare Ford parts on it. Know what the correct dash panel gauges look like and what shape they’re in. The engine bay may look like homemade sin but it doesn’t take much to bring it back to glory. For paint, buy some 319 OD green from RAPCO, Gelispie coatings is the best paint, I usually bought a case of the paint pressed into spray cans and had a gallon to paint the body with. By having the spray cans, this allows you to paint each smaller parts/pieces as you restore them little by little, don’t leave the part without any paint or primer on them since sometimes people will pause a restoration and a couple years of rust can set in. Wallace Tires sells new tires and tubes for these, make sure you have some “combat wheels” so you can change the tires in your garage but be careful. MD Juan makes excellent reproduction body parts but in the early 90’s, they were pretty bad which meant I had to make changes to a part to make it correct. Don’t mess with restoring the fuel tank, I just ordered a new reproduction tank from G503.com, Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep parts, Ron knows what he’s doing and has excellent parts sourced from around the world. Good luck on finding the original radio and accessories, pretty hard to locate but it is possible. I always carried some spare ignition parts just in case but it never let me down to need them. Setting the valves in the engine is very important as well as using correct oil. It’ll cost around $4,000 in all the parts for a full restoration to original condition but some will leave the engine and power system alone if it was “civilianized” to 12 volt. I used an 8 volt battery for the original 6 volt starter so it had a little more power to turn over the starter, it makes a big difference! For the voltage regulator, it’s simple to hollow out an old original regulator and install a newer 8 volt regulator then paint the original regulator with “crinkle paint” for that paint, go to a,local Harley Davidson dealer and buy a can there or you should fine some online I suppose. Just remember to NEVER use Phillips screws! They only used slot screws for these vehicles during the war.
Everything this gentleman said is great knowledge for you to remember and keep an eye out for fuel leaks since sometimes people didn’t properly tighten the fuel lines during the restoration or, they made a mistake on the flanging on the fuel lines. The transmission is pretty bullet proof so inspect it carefully and it’ll likely be in good shape but if not, replace the damaged parts. For windshield glass, just visit any local glass shop and have them sell you some safety glass panels to the dimensions you provide them, it’s a lot cheaper than ordering them but make sure you get a price quote first, I’ve seen a glass shop want to charge me an insane price for a $50 panel. Doing the restoration requires basic knowledge but read up on the details so you know what to look for and ask questions to someone you trust if you’re not sure. Yes, these Jeeps are expensive but that’s why you’re buying a project vehicle. Make sure you know what the correct Jeep engine looks like since a lot of people would slap in some other 4 cylinder engine if they needed to. Each engine has a casting number down by the lower side of the block, that’s how you know exactly what you have. There’s some great people in this hobby and they will assist if you’re polite and show a little gratitude, there’s a lot of military vehicle clubs around the country so check in your area for one and visit a couple meetings. Those clubs will often have events where they horsetrade/sell parts that you may need and at much better prices than ebay!
Double clutching is defiantly an acquired skill, glad I got trained and have driven manual non-synchronous gearboxes
Thank you again for providing good information. I'm putting my jeep away for along winter's nap this weekend.
I had John Cleese and Atkinson vibes with the repeat takes on turning at the intersection. It was such simple humor without trying.
Glad the army taught me the old double shuffle. Great tips keep up the great work
A brilliant post Mr Dot
Every day is a school day.
Thank you
7:38 A few suggestions regarding double declutching:
1) Learn to double de-clutch in a modern vehicle, not your expensive reconditioned ageing jeep.
2) Double de-clutching when changing up gears is easier than when changing down gear; learn that first.
3) Once you've learnt to double de-clutch, do it for all gears changes, up or down, to save wear and tear on your expensive reconditioned ageing jeep gearbox.
With airplanes, we have a rule NEVER idle below 1000 rpm. Something I have always done for my jeeps is run either 85L or 100LL in them some people say that 100LL will destroy those engines however, these engines are (aledgedly) a low enough compression that the valves will not over heat. I personally have never had one show any signs of damage when running on 100LL. I prefer 85L because that is what old flat fenders were designed to run on. Also you can leave avgas in the jeep for a lot longer than you can with mogas or unleaded.
Edit: added things I thought would be helpful
Just bought a Hotchkiss M201. Loving the insight your videos give 👍🏻
Den Gang einfühlen hat man mir beigebracht.
Good content. You're bang-on on all counts.
On point 4 - Downshifting: Mine is different, and may operate different, and I've never driven an MB - mine's a '48 CJ2A, so the trans is different ( a T90 vs a T84) as are the axle gears (5.38:1 vs 4.88:1), but I never downshift below 2nd while driving. If I'm taking a rolling corner, 2nd is fine. The engine has enough torque to make it happen. I only shift to first at a complete stop.
All very good points which are applicable to ALL modern vehicles today.
Great Video. Always wanted a jeep. Subscribed. Any reciprocating piston engine should be warmed up for 15 mins to allow the oil to reach it's correct working temp. Just that no one can be bothered waiting that long. Which is why engines wear out quicker while they are pumping cold oil around. I want a jeep that looks original but has a modern engine transmission and brakes.
All the non country boy Texans will think this is the redneckest story. I learned how to drive on a military jeep. Not ones as old as this. I don’t know their age but they were probably made in the 70s. Much of my family worked at ft hood. When the military switched to hummers, they had a bunch of old jeeps. The military would usually just throw them in a junk yard. They never cared much about waste. My uncle knew people there and could buy stuff. He bought two jeeps and 8 motors for parts. He’d put a roping seat on the front and we used it to rope cows. It wasn’t as good as a horse usually but occasionally is you had a big wild one it was better because they’d charge or possibly pull down a horse. I remember one taking off after someone and almost got him . Luckily this large cow was about 5 feet from hooking him when she hit the end of the rope. She couldn’t budge the jeep and was pulled over backwards. Those things would go anywhere. I was shocked at how much they could do with just stick parts and basic military tires. I learned how to drive it when I was probably 12. It had a push button starter like the one in the video but on the floor behind the clutch. For those unfamiliar, that was the old way of making sure you didn’t start it in gear and left a way to start it in gear if need be. One summer the battery was bad so id just park it on a hill every time I was done driving for the day and then throw it in 3rd and push start it on the hill. I even heard stories of my dad and uncle when they were younger turning one over. They just tied a horse to it and pulled it back on its tires. I had lots of fun times when I was young driving one of those around.
Another great video. Btw, I'm sure it's not intentional but you are buttoning your greatcoat up the girls' way!
I don't have a Jeep but have run a 65 Mustang for over 25 years. I like driving it so I do drive in the winter months. Fortunately in the UK there are suitable days in the winter months where there is no snow salt or rain on the roads. I totally agree that if you start the engine then it is essential to give the vehicle a good run. I take the Mustang on the motorway and cruise for around 10 miles at 70mph. Probably difficult in the Jeep but the idea is to make it work. I would also say it is important to brim the fuel tank. I had one tank rot through at the top. This was due to condensation. I also think for the winter a battery conditioner is a good thing to have. Not sure if you can get 6v ones though?
Brimming the tank is a good idea
Just like to say thanks for all the great videos you have put out and have a nice Christmas
Well done mastering double de clutching.....I learnt it prob 50 plus years ago....on old landrovers....and the heavy trucks.....no syncro on any gears on trucks back then.
Re modern oil.....far as I know....fully synthetic oil is not as good at protecting internals as mineral or semi synthetic.
I have no idea what oil you guys use in your Jeeps....but worth bearing in mind.
I winter I put a bung in my exhaust tail pipe.
3:08 full sythetic oil, such as Amsoil or Mobil 1, maintains its viscosity despite being very cold or very hot.
pushing in the 1st gear while the vehicle is moving is still on modern synchronized gearboxes not so good, if someone have a good sensible feeling you can feel the gear don't want to get in easy until very very low speeds maybe 5km/h or lower i feel this on every new car also... i hate it when people doing this, i am a oldschool mechanic 😆 i love how you said "ASK DON'T TELL" oh and yes 100% agree with all you said about parking an engine over winter.... i have the best results with putting some ATF oil into the cylinders, still afters years not a single point of rust or anything on the cyl walls or rings and positive side effect it loosens up the piston rings if there is some carbon buildup ;)
very nice jeep and video thanks for it
Thanks for the Great Info! Great Presentation as Well!!
I was used to double clutch and all those things Fourty years ago driving unsynchronised trucks and offroad vehicles. I bet I would make quite scratchy gear changes today until I would get used to it again. My old Chevies have the same system: Unsynchronised first, but synchronised second and third. Honestly I nearly always put the first only after stopping.
Those Chevy six cylinder engines are very torqy so no need to put it into first while driving. Sometimes I show people that you can start driving the car in the third gear.
its a real skill to look after these boxes properly, but well worth it in the end.
great video, looking forward to more. Thank you. Paul Lucas.
I don't own a jeep but I love the simple maintenance on older vehicles
Had one, and worked on others, most people don't know that there are 37 grease points. Also, the older engines, if a Willys-built Jeep the crank, is not balanced and they don't take to fast engine speeds, this problem stayed till 1948 with Willys. Compounding the problem is that the Willys had 5.38 gears. Now the Ford Jeeps had a balanced crankshaft and 4.88 finals, so they can go at a faster road speed. My suggestion is to look for an "F" on the head bolts. Actually, the Ford engine has a better design, and the lube system is far superior. Get good at double clutching or get good at transmission rebuilds. The steering is, well it somewhat works if you are strong enough and don't mind road wondering.
willys mb had a balanced rotating assembly and 4.88 gears. the ford gpw is practically identical as it is the willys design manufactured by ford. the two main differences in the engine is the ford one was painted grey and used head studs.
5.38 gears weren't used on ww2 jeeps they were used on post war Jeep cj's for more pulling power.
Im learning all the time, I had no idea that the ford engines had balanced cranks and the willys didnt ? I saw a balance weight on the crank of a 42 ford gpw I am restoring and thought it must be an engine from a generator as apparently they had a balanced crank?
Great video. I enjoyed it. Looking forward to the next vid, and the next jeep!
5:11 *Laughs in Dodge WC 51 and Chevrolet C15A* xD
Being in Canada I sure know about warming the car up. I have to say it is also important to consider the transmission and drive train all in all . I have been in such cold weather that even with a new truck it took a minute or so before the truck would move when the truck was in drive due to the fluids being so cold and thick . Once it got going it was fine but each day I would drive slow and easy for the first number of miles in the winter
Once again, good stuff!
Excellent video. Thanks for reminding these forgottent basics .
hi. it was normal for us to double-de-clutch in the 60s with cars and land rovers, the yonger generation coming up now find it mind bogaling. its not a big deal just normal driving whether its an austin 7 or jeep
Das unbeliebteste Importfahrzeug seiner Klasse in 1944/45😄
Not sure about draining down the fuel system. On my classic motorcycles I always top up the fuel tanks (with Esso E5) prior to storing away for the winter. This is to stop any corrosion forming inside the walls the tank. I also use a fuel stabiliser called Sta-Bil, this helps keep the fuel fresh and discourages corrission. I run the engine with the fuel tap in the off position to empty the fuel pipes and carburettor. My bikes always start and run nicely come the springtime.
Could you please tell me about the magnetic compass on your dashboard? I like it!
My uncle used to have a mint condition surplus 1948 Willys Jeep back in the 70s. He kept it at my grandma's house in her garage and used to drive me around in it as a kid for fun. Unfortunately he sold it to another collector sometime in the 1990s.
14:19 I thought I as the only one who still said "Centigrade" :)
Thank for the tips! I still haven't figured out the double clutch, I just skid around the corners sideways, Duke of Hazards style and holler "hang on"!! 🤪 I've got so much to do and so little time! Love my jeep! -Cheers! -S (GPW7220)
yes, double clutching down into 1st
Profile pic is 1943 Willys MB at Ft. Huachuca
Was in North Africa -- big 2nd fuel tank under passenger seat
Don't own a WW2 Jeep. Most likely never will. Want one. But I enjoyed this video.
I think youtube is trying to tell you something!
@@Greendot319 probably. Being a millennial I'll never have something quite that cool. I have been looking at buying a Jeep Compass for my next vehicle (probably why your video ended up on my feed)
However people are destroying their Jeeps today..... It's still better than the way they were originally destroyed.!!!
I have a 1/6 scale RC Jeep by Roc hobby & it's honestly a work of art, it's literally a display grade model you can drive.
It has all the pioneer tools, a .50 cal on a pintle, canvas seats, foldable windscreen, opening bonnet with a detailed engine & the steering wheel is on a servo so it turns left & right... When you fit a scale GI figure with movable arms it looks bloody awesome.!!
It's super capable too.!.. It'll go almost anywhere.
You can get a canvas top & a trailer too.
The only concession to performance over realism is that they've made it with coilover suspension... But you can get a leaf spring conversion kit if you want.
They also do a 1/12 scale version that is leaf sprung as standard, it's every bit as detailed & realistic with the canvas top & trailer available too.
The 1/12 one costs around £200 & the 1/6 is around £330 ish.
Roc hobby do all sorts of other vehicles too, they do a Type 82 Kubelwagen, a Type 82E (Beetle) Kommandeurwagen, a sweet looking Unimog & various civilian off road vehicles from the 50's up to modern stuff.
Roc hobby/FMS hobby/Eazy rc (same company) have really taken the scale hard body RC sector by storm this past 18 months, sometimes releasing 2 new models a month.!!!! Unheard off.!
Each RC is better than the last with some hobby firsts like 1/18 scaled 2 speed gearboxes & portal axles.. All metal geared too.!!
A wee tip.. Roc is the premium one, FMS is mid tier & Eazy RC the budget one with cheaper electronics... But they're fundamentally the same models..
Anyways.. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE & BEST WISHES FROM SCOTLAND 🏴 🙏 ♥
I hope to one day own one of these old jeeps but I think I want a fj40 more
I wanted a willys then I found this channel a year ago now its on the must have list but wow they are expensive
Yer good ones not cheap these days, original parts very expensive too
I've never driven one of these but having driven big trucks and shifting without using the clutch I wonder if it works the same way; just match the speed with the RPMs.
Yes it does just takes practice and lots of metal in your gearbox!
Was thinking the same. Trucker here too
Hello,
I watch your interesting videos.
I would like to ask where can I buy the cap you are wearing :-)
I've been looking for this cap in a bigger size for a long time.
Thank you.
Best regards Standa
The run down to first is my biggest fear driving around, most people are really understanding at the complete stop or attempted first blip, because these vehicles are so old. I usually give a wave, last weekend I got a return "YOU CAN DO IT!"
I don't even own one but I still watch this. I would like to have one some day.
I dont own a WWII Jeep and dont plan on having one yet im here watching this
Well you must but one then, youtube doesn't lie!
Another excellent video by the Willys Jeep expert 👌
Well thanks!
RTFM always a good start. But with modern oil and a oil additive, you can drive straight away. With boxes without synchros, just offer the gear leaver with gentle pressure really rev the engine high and as it go through the range the gear stick will almost pull out of your hand. Lots of revs, knowing your range v road speed, and don't even bother with the clutch.
I remember my dad used to do that every morning with any of his car's he loved his volvo's he used to sit outside for 5 10 mins waiting for the engine to warm-up he even has me doing it today withy own! He drilled that into my head from a kid don't just start you motor n take off let it get up to temp! Old skool but I've never had an issue
Perhaps its a dad thing lol!
On #5. Driving it for a bit is advisable, if it's dry weather, to exercise the brakes, and all the other components that rely on seals to operate.
Skill testing question: Which way around should the jerry can be installed? With the filler neck towards the outside, or facing towards the spare tyre?
brilliant advice
Great video tips 😃👍
I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Norway 🎄🎅🎉
Happy Christmas!
10:39 any info on those modified mudguards? i've only seen them a couple of times on pictures...field conversions? but why, when, where?
In the winter of 44 front mudguard extensions are fairly common. They are locally made, no kits for them
@@Greendot319 thanks
hi there ... what grade of oil do you recoment?
That shot of him in the jeep sent chills down my spine. OMG That was it then !!! i am having a shot of whisky right now !!!!!! 2:16
Uncle was a driver WW2. He said if they needed to work on anything under the jeeps, they would just roll them over onto their sides.
Nice to see your helpful video. Thanks!
Nice video Greendot - I have one of those car bags with desiccant containers for the winter
most of these points is just basic care and driving of ANY pre 70 vehicle. I learned to drive in mid 60s trucks without synchro first and first gen OHV engines. Todays cars are so simple to maintain and operate no one learns. TY for the info and remember y'all this applies to ALL pre 70 cars and trucks
Are you using the standard sae 90 in the transmission or a different modern oil?
On extended idling, cj2a runs same drive train with addition of pto and my case flatbelt pulley. It'll idle for days no problem, usto to run a corn mill with one.
brilliant but you forgot to tell us about puting the bag accross the radiator , I see you did it to yours and its a great idea, pity we cant buy a roller blind for the radiators like the early toyota landcruisers had so as soon as the temperature is up you can just roll up the blind, I had a Norwegian jeep that had one of these fitted standard and you could operate it from the drivers seat using a wire and a ring pull , I also get quite a few jeeps that have had the temperature thermostats removed so the jeep dousnt have a hope in hell of geting upto a decent working temperature , just working on onme nopw with thermostat removed but the thermostat housing has siezed bolts so im goinmg to put an in line retro fit thermostat in the one piece top hose , I know ist not very original looking but a dead easy quick way of getting it back to runninmg at the right temp without the worry of possibly shearing one of the three bolts and all the problems that brings
Double clutch shifting, clutch in take out of 2nd, clutch out, clutch in match rpm then shift into first gear. More or less the same for shifting a no synchro-mesh transmission up or down gears like large old trucks.
1970s cars had to be warmed up. Most people haven't had that experience. We idle aircraft at 1,000 rpm to keep them clean. You could also use a carcoon. Its an inflatable that you put you car in and it cleans and dries the air as it goes in.
Hi all I have a 1943 Ford GPW, stationed in Townsville Queensland Australia during WW2 US Marines Base section 3 Military Police. All matching Numbers and stock standard and still running 6 volt system and runs very well. Also I enjoy tuning into green dot I can send photos on request if interested Best regards Bill down under (Australia.😊
WHEN you start an engine that has been unused for some time and HAS a start-handle, then turn it over manually with no choke (!) a couple of times to lubricate the engine before starting it. This is especially important if it is cold.
Hey. always like your video's and your presenting is top notch! What I noticed about your jacket is that the way you currently buttoned it, it would belong to someone who would normally sit on the passenger seat. because this way the wind would not get in while driving. I have an original jeep coat made from sheep skin inside and it is buttoned the same way as yours. I was told (at Beltring) it was usually used by a soldier who was higher in rank, not the driver of the jeep.
Ha ha, take a look and see if you can work out why I buttoned it that way, there is a reason!
In war they mostly moved in convoys and that was hardest part to keep up steady speed with others.
Popped up in my recommended assuming i have possession of a WWII Jepp.
It assumed wrong
Great tips 👌 Thanks again 👍
cheers, youre welcome
What do YOU do about the soft iron valve seats in the engine? Did you have hardened seats installed? My engine valves sunk into the block.
Plenty of similarities to running my ‘57 MGA !
An engine block heater from Amazon on a timer will keep damp at bay and help stop moister build up in the sump over winter.
I would think a block heater would create condensation
Another tip for wwii jeep owners: every WWII jeep didn’t have a massive 50 cal gun mounted behind the front seats. In fact most wwii Jeep’s did not have machine guns mounted on them. Same goes for the M1919 30 cal. Keep your jeep light and simple.
Linkage lube s great but use besides a show takes care of most of that 4 ur Linkage as far as diff and frequent oil changes that's extremely important along w ft end grease synthetic b a huge help as well !
Double declutching just needs to be practised. The manual for my car, from 1927, before synchro arrived, says "the best conditions are provided by a slight down grade of sufficient slope to keep the car in uniform motion while the gear lever is in neutral",