Thanks! I had a freeze plug in a hard to reach area, I couldn’t get a fill in there but I used a carbide on my in-line grinder punched the opposite side to get it sideways and it came out with ease thanks again!
And if the freeze plug won't budge using the Hammer and punch method? I have one where I hit as hard as I can and the damn thing just doesn't move at all.
working on a mid 70s bbc 454. i had some that were punching holes in the plugs (wouldnt budge). i ended up pushing the plugs into the water jackets with a similar sized socket. and finagling them out. hope it helps.
I guess this works but kind of over engineered in my opinion. If you just tap one side of the plug with a blunt stone chisel or a punch, the freeze out plug will spin 90° and you just pull it out with pliers. So much easier, and you don’t get metal shavings into the cooling system or engine.
Well lemme tell you why someone would do this!.. a stuck freeze plug won't insert further.. so the hammer trick doesn't work! Now Imma go try this method
That’s a hard question to answer here. Obviously, you want a nice clean surface to work with, but how do you define a scratch? How deep is it? It could need to be repaired. I would invest in making the surface as good as it can be before installing new plugs. If it leaks, it is coming apart again, so might as well do the job right the first time around and only do it once.
I'm about to do this on my 95 f150 302 but don't have tools to pull engine. Is it doable with engine in place. Or possibly taking if engine mounts and propping engine up a few inches
DO NOT USE CHISELS!!! A bad hit, and the plug will never seal properly. Drill a 8 or 10 mm hole on the plug as centered as you can, thread it with a male tap, get the corresponding bolt with washers, normal and oversized, grab a 1/2 ratchet socket about 2 numbers bigger than the plug (I.e. if the plug is 30 mm use the 32 mils), now put the socket over the plug, the washers, and the bolt screwed on the plug through the socket, and use the ratchet to turn it until the plug pops out. If you have the block on a stand and you can screw a nut behind, you can pull even the most stuck plugs. Heating it also helps. I've replaced quite some plugs this way... But in case it's too stuck, and you can't screw a nut behind, weld a big bolt on it with a washer (12, 13, or 14 mils is enough), and use a sliding hammer. Again, the blow torch is your best friend here😁
If I could get the plug to tilt that easy I would not have to drill it. Banged on mine with a punch and 5 pound dead blow hammer and it just laughed. They will have to be cut out..
Sometimes, they are pretty stuck and ease of access is an issue, but for the most part, the way I do it will work. There is always that, "one" that doesn't want to be part pf the team.
Not worth the probability of getting metal shavings in side engine.additionally if the engine is in vehicle,basically all the drill motors and longer then necessary tools you utilizes are way to long to be of any use.have to give this a hands down report.i rarely do that but come on very non realistic and potentially damaging techniques.
As with any tip/trick, it may not work in your situation. Access could be limited to the point that you can’t use this method. There are others though!
There are a few other steps you can take, but if this didn't work, you might have some rust issues. The next steps will depend on if the engine is on a stand or still in the car, but that bond needs to get broken.
Yeah, right, I'll just pull the engine out of the car. No problem. Let us know when you come up with an easy way to remove them from under the car while the engine is still in the car.
Honestly I'm not sure why you'd remove a freeze plug on an engine still in the car unless you're adding a block heater. If it's leaking you might be in trouble anyway.
@@bobeskance8965 apparently I haven't. I would agree that drilling with the engine in the car would be problematic and probably not the best idea for that application.
Couldn’t get any better for your advice then bam saw that beautiful FC
Perfect video, excellent and simple procedure. Thank you very much, greetings from the Czech Republic.
Thanks for watching and awesome to hear us reach out friends overseas!
Thanks! I had a freeze plug in a hard to reach area, I couldn’t get a fill in there but I used a carbide on my in-line grinder punched the opposite side to get it sideways and it came out with ease thanks again!
Glad it helped! It's amazing what you can do, when you need to get the car running, huh?
How did you put it back
Excellent - was trying to find out what it looks like, in the Porsche WSM for the 944 it specifies this method for removing the freeze plugs
wow wonderfully done! Just one question, would you worry when engine still on car and drill burrs might fall back inside engine?
In that case what I'll do is use grease on the drill bit and do it a little bit at a time, catching 99% of the shavings in the grease.
And if the freeze plug won't budge using the Hammer and punch method? I have one where I hit as hard as I can and the damn thing just doesn't move at all.
working on a mid 70s bbc 454. i had some that were punching holes in the plugs (wouldnt budge). i ended up pushing the plugs into the water jackets with a similar sized socket. and finagling them out. hope it helps.
soak them in PB. and just keep working. i didnt use the seal puller, i wedged the punch into it and pry'd some of them out.
@@coryjordan2368 i discovered it rested against a lip on the inside.
Self tapper and prybar was the correct solution...
That’s great if you’re rebuilding your engine. How about when you have to replace a leaking freeze plug with engine in the car?
knock it in and it will rot away in the block
I guess this works but kind of over engineered in my opinion. If you just tap one side of the plug with a blunt stone chisel or a punch, the freeze out plug will spin 90° and you just pull it out with pliers. So much easier, and you don’t get metal shavings into the cooling system or engine.
Like I always say, not the only way to do it, but it does the job that I have had success with. Thanks for watching!
Easier said than done I'm struggling fail to remove it out
My block has a ridge so two plugs cannot spin out
Well lemme tell you why someone would do this!.. a stuck freeze plug won't insert further.. so the hammer trick doesn't work! Now Imma go try this method
Very nice job, what if one scratch a little the seat of the freeze plug? there will be any problem?
That’s a hard question to answer here. Obviously, you want a nice clean surface to work with, but how do you define a scratch? How deep is it? It could need to be repaired. I would invest in making the surface as good as it can be before installing new plugs. If it leaks, it is coming apart again, so might as well do the job right the first time around and only do it once.
nice process, american ingenuity
I'm about to do this on my 95 f150 302 but don't have tools to pull engine. Is it doable with engine in place. Or possibly taking if engine mounts and propping engine up a few inches
you will only do the easy ones, what about if there are some under the flywheel?
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it - Always trying to spread a few of my tricks and shortcuts around!
DO NOT USE CHISELS!!! A bad hit, and the plug will never seal properly.
Drill a 8 or 10 mm hole on the plug as centered as you can, thread it with a male tap, get the corresponding bolt with washers, normal and oversized, grab a 1/2 ratchet socket about 2 numbers bigger than the plug (I.e. if the plug is 30 mm use the 32 mils), now put the socket over the plug, the washers, and the bolt screwed on the plug through the socket, and use the ratchet to turn it until the plug pops out. If you have the block on a stand and you can screw a nut behind, you can pull even the most stuck plugs. Heating it also helps.
I've replaced quite some plugs this way... But in case it's too stuck, and you can't screw a nut behind, weld a big bolt on it with a washer (12, 13, or 14 mils is enough), and use a sliding hammer. Again, the blow torch is your best friend here😁
Awesome! Thanks!!!
No need to drill, just tap with the punch to rotate 90º and pull out with pliers.
Isnt he possibly putting shavings inside by drilling???
Yeah lets see that with one still on the block
Way easier when motor out of car
If I could get the plug to tilt that easy I would not have to drill it. Banged on mine with a punch and 5 pound dead blow hammer and it just laughed. They will have to be cut out..
Sometimes, they are pretty stuck and ease of access is an issue, but for the most part, the way I do it will work. There is always that, "one" that doesn't want to be part pf the team.
@@jpm I got them out. Just needed more persuasion.
I think I'll try this method but instead of drilling I'm going to punch a small hole
Possibly a cleaner method - let me know how that works for you!
Beware, odds are you'll just hit the freeze plug into the cooling galley, making it harder to get out of the block.
Nah I've already punched a hole in two ,,these things are 52 years old & very soft,,but they don't want to come out
Not worth the probability of getting metal shavings in side engine.additionally if the engine is in vehicle,basically all the drill motors and longer then necessary tools you utilizes are way to long to be of any use.have to give this a hands down report.i rarely do that but come on very non realistic and potentially damaging techniques.
Self tapped and a claw hammer if u have room. 🤪
i think its easy doing it outside,, but if engine still attched to frame i dint think ad easy ad that ,, tnx anyway
As with any tip/trick, it may not work in your situation. Access could be limited to the point that you can’t use this method. There are others though!
Just hit it on one side, and then use pliers or vise grips to grab the lip on the other side and then pull it out
That’s another way to do it!
and when this doesn't work. then what
There are a few other steps you can take, but if this didn't work, you might have some rust issues. The next steps will depend on if the engine is on a stand or still in the car, but that bond needs to get broken.
Yeah, right, I'll just pull the engine out of the car. No problem. Let us know when you come up with an easy way to remove them from under the car while the engine is still in the car.
Honestly I'm not sure why you'd remove a freeze plug on an engine still in the car unless you're adding a block heater. If it's leaking you might be in trouble anyway.
@@JessePrather-e1s You have never experienced a rusted leaking freeze plug? Never owned an old car?
@@bobeskance8965 apparently I haven't. I would agree that drilling with the engine in the car would be problematic and probably not the best idea for that application.
That's To Easy! You've ruined the challenge and potential peril for Me.
I too know the peril, that’s why I do it this way!
P
You dont want to drill out a freeze-out plug while the engine is still in the vehicle 😂
Lousy video
Brilliant!