I've been waxing my cargobike chain for a couple of years now. I love the clean oil-free drivechain, but you're right about rust, especially up here in Scotland where it rains a lot! As an aside, the quality of your videos is top notch. A real pleasure to watch.
When I had a waxed Shimano chain, every little splash of water on the chain produced surface rust in less than 24 hours. Now I have YBN chains, and have zero problems with rust. The way I see it, wax simply doesn't rust proof chains, so you have to use chains that don't need oil to stay rust free.
Until now, I had not known about the waxing of bicycle chains, and for that reason alone I was and still am very interested and attentive to your video! Thank you for that... like all your clips, this one has both entertaining and educational value! 👍😃 ... and if you think a little about the growth of the chain, you can sometimes come up with the technical value and advantage yourself... actually a very logical thing! 😉 ...thank you again for your channel and the entertaining entertainment that will surely get many more people interested in cycling! Take care and good luck and health to you all! 😃
I've been waxing chains for a few years now - but watching you guys do it - you're on another level from me (I was smiling the whole way through). The downside for me though, is that I live in Hamburg and end up having to redo the chain every couple of weeks. Still, as you rightly point out - once it's been initially done - it's not a major chore. Thanks for the video - really enjoyed it - best of luck with everything.
Reading some of the comments about chains rusting.. I have never had a chain rust.. (UK) I use a Sram PC1091R 10spd chain & hot wax plus PTFE 1.6 micron powder. Never had any problems... all I can say on that is, down the line, cheap materials are being used in the manufacture of some chains. A useful video for anyone wanting to do the same I do with my chain is here, "Waxing your chain - getting it right" . Hope this helps some of you out there :)
Me too. I have been waxing my chains for a couple of years, and riding in all weathers, and haven't had any rust I can remember. I'll keep an eye on it, just in case. But, I'm pretty happy with waxing. As others have said, after the initial cleaning, it's easy - much easier than scraping oily crud out of jockey wheels! Cheers
When i was using wax my chain had rust all over it. Even after drying it off after a rainy ride and re-applying the wax. Wax also piles up on your mini derailleur cogs and gets hard. I switched to vikings juice all weather lube and never looked back. No more rust, silent chain, currently at 19k on my ultegra casette. With wax i had to replace it after 6k. If you clean your chain of sand after a dry ride using oil, then it also stays clean.
I think people just don’t like doing maintenance because the drivetrain attracts and retains dirt turning the oil or lube black. The only benefit I can see for wax is that it’s cleaner to maintain, whereas oil or lube is much better for protecting from rust, wear and noises. The wax seems to offer much less lubrication and increases wear causing components to fail quicker.
@@gtjack9 green oil wet lube removes easy with some water and a dry cloth afterwards. Hard to find these days though. Kept my drivetrain good this winter during -10, 0° wet weather. I clean my chain every 2-3 rides of mud and sand
i always enjoy the waxing process... also now i learn something!! i ride my bike everyday for 25km a day from work to home. i only use All purpose lube on my chain, now that i learned that waxing the chain collect less dirt, i might do it on my own.
Chain waxing does involve a little maintenance to keep it running in the wet weather but it keeps your bike so much cleaner than oil, so you save some maintenance, it almost comes down to personal preference but it’s definitely worth trying!
Another fanatic video. 1. Everytime you clean a chain, you create maximum entry areas for sources of abrasives. Chains are self sealing if you don't clean more than a gentle wipe. 2. It hurts nothing to run chains until failure. Chains don't need to be checked for stretch. They'll wear in association with sprockets.
Agree. All you need for chain maintenance is an old towel, a bottle of oil, & a cheap chain brush. I get good results from Halfords all weather lube, it's more water repellent than basic bike oil & not much more expensive.
I always hot wax my chain. I wax two chains at a time and re-wax when both chains are ready usually after 250km-300km on each chain depending on the conditions.
I put a new chain a naphta for an hour, then rinsed it off with acetone for a couple of minutes. It was so clean that i couldrub it with a white towel. It even smelt like bare steal. Then i melted 150 grams of white wax (cheP... Probably had dye in it) and stuck the chain in it for 30 minutes while i did the laundry.. I removed the pot, then used a food thermometer to judge when the wax reached 75c and lifted the chain out using the thin bit of wire i had strung through it before. Let it hang for an hour as i watched a movie. Then its just a atterof runningit over a door handle for a minute to get the flakes off it and popping it back on. Of course it's a great idea give the chain ring and cassette a good jostling first. It runs like an absolute dream. Now here is the amazing part.... I got z bottle of Flower Power wax drip lube to apply once a month (350km). It works fine on top of any parrafin and is judged the best by ZeroFriction Cycling. I am planning to do a full immersion once every 6 months. Iftime allows, i will boil the chain first to egt all the old wax out, give it a rudementary drying, then dunk it in the wax.... I must say it is WAY easier than cleaning oil off my chain and drive chain . Once i left my chain for a whole 2 month without cleaning and it got so grundgy that i dreaded the day i cleaned it. That was the day I swore and oath to prep and wax my new chain (which was soon afterwards since my chain died a miserable and early death) So go get youself a brand new chain and go wax.... Cheap parrafin. Itsgold anditsjust as good. And most of all ITS EASIER THAN OILY LUBE
I must say, that having previously used oiled chains and then tried waxed chains I have returned to the wet and the dry lubs. Yes, waxing does keep your chain clean but the noise drives me nuts. I was cleaning my chain regularly anyway and not allowing oil residue to build up, I find it easier in my opinion.
The usual cause of noise from a waxed chain is not allowing the chain to heat up in the hot wax . If you dip and remove immediately there is no penetration of the wax in the pins .
Something that’s often over looked when re-waxing a chain is the wear it’s easy to re-wax without measuring the wear in the chain. A worn chain could be the cause of drive train excessive noise
I waxed my chain in February if this year. I only put about 70 miles on it and was already getting noisy. It was a popular wax too. I stripped the wax off and went back to a regular lube.
All I do with a new chain is degrease it then wax, I never completely strip everything off the chain because if you do it rusts so it’s pointless then, I don’t have any trouble with wax coming off or anything like that.
Biggest con with chain waxing (I’ve tried it and got all the kit to do it correctly) is it won’t stop your chain rusting. Waxing is great for one day riding. Touring, bikepacking, and commuting, just don’t bother waxing as its top time consuming to re-wax and even then it won’t stop your chain rusting. Don’t know why the rusting issue is never bought up in waxing videos, yours is the first time I’ve ever heard anyone ever mention it. 🤔
If you clean off the base coat that a new chain comes with waxing does keep your chain from rusting. You can buy Super Secret chain lube from Silca and top off a chain wax every 200 miles and only re-wax every 1500 miles.
@@andrewbird6966 No, sorry waxing will not stop a chain from rusting. Ok for race days but for a month of rain like in the UK using a bike everyday, a chain will rust
May not work for you but I've never had a chain rust. I'm already 5,000 miles into a chain with almost zero noticeable wear and absolutely no rust despite many days of rain, snow, and dirt. I've waxed it 5-6 times and topped off with Silca SS lube every 200 miles.
It will stop rust as long as you wipe down the chain with a dry cloth after its been raining, also that 1st initial clean has too be a deep clean Leaving chain in petrol for 6 hrs then degreaser for 30 minutes And isopropyl 99.9 for 30 mins and repeat the isopropyl process 3-4 times until jar or container is crystal clear, Before you hot wax, And boiling water over your cassette and jockey after cleaning with isopropyl helps massively
What is the volume (liquid capacity) of your Ultrasonic Cleaner? Do you clean MTB cassettes in it as well as road? I'm wondering what's an ideal size for a rider of road/mtb/fat bikes. Thanks!
The one in the video It’s 3 litres we also have a bigger cleaning tank with pump and sink, but to be honest hardly ever use it in comparison to the one we use in the videos. I find three litres cheaper and easier to constantly change (obviously we are commercial rather than hobby) we do have to turn cassettes, especially once they go over 32t ish but it’s easy to do them in half so to speak, so practicality vs running costs 3litres is perfect
Love your videos! question about the mint 365 lube.. ive been trying to get some my self but cant seem to find the syringe/precision applicator you have in the videos. are you able to point me in the right direction for it please? keep up the great vids! thanks
I think if you know how long to wait before turning off the heat, and how long to wait for cooling you can save having to keep watching the wax, then it's really just a matter of boiling the chain, sticking it in the wax, and taking it out, which is not really a big deal.
Just went YOLO and try the drenched parafin wax method. Proper stuff that. Ridden 4 times in light rain and 1 time in heavy rain, not a single thing sticks to my chain. But i have a question regarding maintenance procedure of waxed chain after a rainy ride. All this time, i just brush the chain from debris, wipe with cloth, and dry them with leaf blower. Almost the same with what you just said. But I see a little surface rust forming between some of the links and some rollers. Does it means it’s time to rewax the chain? So far it’s been 240km from my initial wax.
Without seeing the chain it’s hard to give solid advice, but as a general rule when the chain is rusting it’s time to rewax, it will do no harm to over wax it until you start to figure out the “sweet spot” for your rewaxing🧡
You don’t need to take your bike into a shop. The cost of workshop labour now is so high that it makes so much more sense for the consumer to buy a £50 ultrasonic cleaner and a £10-15 slow cooker. Less than £100 and you are setup for years with a few packets of wax going forward.
Don’t work in the wet, much goodly in the dry. 500g candle wax, 50g bees wax, 50g ptfe powder - chain lasts 300 miles between waxing. Chain strength is cancelled almost. Cheap slow cooker for heating wax. Just do it
@@boracay12 i wont do that. As its the solid wax that provides the lubrication. If its too runny it will disappear. The candle wax is very flaky on its own, the candle wax with ptfe powder is also flaky, but still work But add a little bees wax it’ll stop the wax flaking off. When the chain cools down it’ll be very stiff at first, but after refitting to bike it’ll free up and will last a good 300-400 miles.
@@retroonhisbikes the problem I have is product availability here on this island . I'll have to use some kind of alternative . Candle wax by itself is to thick correct ? What do you think is a good alternative to the powder?
I prep my chains with Molten Speed Wax and Teflon powder myself. I buy 4-5 chains at a time and then use a new one for an Ironman or two. After that it becomes my training chain. HOWEVER, I almost never re-wax them again but rather use a wax lube like Squirt or Silca Super Secret Chain lube. I apply this once every 2-3 weeks depending on how wet it’s been. So with all due respect getting a fully immersed re-waxing is not necessary in my opinion. Not only do the chain and components stay clean but they last 3-4 times longer as they aren’t worn by the grit that the oil attracts on normal lube.
There's a lot of left over junk on that chain you showed being installed after the polish powdering. That stuff flies all over the place and into the rotor. Wtf
I've been waxing my cargobike chain for a couple of years now. I love the clean oil-free drivechain, but you're right about rust, especially up here in Scotland where it rains a lot!
As an aside, the quality of your videos is top notch. A real pleasure to watch.
I am on about 7 years now nothing better. Do you hot wax?
When I had a waxed Shimano chain, every little splash of water on the chain produced surface rust in less than 24 hours. Now I have YBN chains, and have zero problems with rust. The way I see it, wax simply doesn't rust proof chains, so you have to use chains that don't need oil to stay rust free.
Until now, I had not known about the waxing of bicycle chains, and for that reason alone I was and still am very interested and attentive to your video! Thank you for that... like all your clips, this one has both entertaining and educational value! 👍😃 ... and if you think a little about the growth of the chain, you can sometimes come up with the technical value and advantage yourself... actually a very logical thing! 😉 ...thank you again for your channel and the entertaining entertainment that will surely get many more people interested in cycling! Take care and good luck and health to you all! 😃
I've been waxing chains for a few years now - but watching you guys do it - you're on another level from me (I was smiling the whole way through). The downside for me though, is that I live in Hamburg and end up having to redo the chain every couple of weeks. Still, as you rightly point out - once it's been initially done - it's not a major chore. Thanks for the video - really enjoyed it - best of luck with everything.
I do a couple of chains at a time. I actually quite enjoy it. Do you mix your own wax?
Reading some of the comments about chains rusting.. I have never had a chain rust.. (UK) I use a Sram PC1091R 10spd chain & hot wax plus PTFE 1.6 micron powder. Never had any problems... all I can say on that is, down the line, cheap materials are being used in the manufacture of some chains. A useful video for anyone wanting to do the same I do with my chain is here, "Waxing your chain - getting it right" . Hope this helps some of you out there :)
Me too. I have been waxing my chains for a couple of years, and riding in all weathers, and haven't had any rust I can remember.
I'll keep an eye on it, just in case. But, I'm pretty happy with waxing.
As others have said, after the initial cleaning, it's easy - much easier than scraping oily crud out of jockey wheels!
Cheers
What PTFE to wax ratio you're using? I've heard that 1 part PTFE to 10 parts wax works well so I ordered 100g PTFE powder and a kilo of wax.
@@eljaibas16 That's the ratio I used so yes just melt the lot to around 90-95 celcius mate :)
@@peternicholls6532 thanks a lot my friend
When i was using wax my chain had rust all over it. Even after drying it off after a rainy ride and re-applying the wax. Wax also piles up on your mini derailleur cogs and gets hard. I switched to vikings juice all weather lube and never looked back. No more rust, silent chain, currently at 19k on my ultegra casette. With wax i had to replace it after 6k. If you clean your chain of sand after a dry ride using oil, then it also stays clean.
I think people just don’t like doing maintenance because the drivetrain attracts and retains dirt turning the oil or lube black.
The only benefit I can see for wax is that it’s cleaner to maintain, whereas oil or lube is much better for protecting from rust, wear and noises.
The wax seems to offer much less lubrication and increases wear causing components to fail quicker.
@@gtjack9 green oil wet lube removes easy with some water and a dry cloth afterwards. Hard to find these days though. Kept my drivetrain good this winter during -10, 0° wet weather. I clean my chain every 2-3 rides of mud and sand
i always enjoy the waxing process... also now i learn something!! i ride my bike everyday for 25km a day from work to home. i only use All purpose lube on my chain, now that i learned that waxing the chain collect less dirt, i might do it on my own.
Chain waxing does involve a little maintenance to keep it running in the wet weather but it keeps your bike so much cleaner than oil, so you save some maintenance, it almost comes down to personal preference but it’s definitely worth trying!
Another fanatic video.
1. Everytime you clean a chain, you create maximum entry areas for sources of abrasives. Chains are self sealing if you don't clean more than a gentle wipe.
2. It hurts nothing to run chains until failure. Chains don't need to be checked for stretch. They'll wear in association with sprockets.
Agree. All you need for chain maintenance is an old towel, a bottle of oil, & a cheap chain brush. I get good results from Halfords all weather lube, it's more water repellent than basic bike oil & not much more expensive.
I always hot wax my chain. I wax two chains at a time and re-wax when both chains are ready usually after 250km-300km on each chain depending on the conditions.
Sounds like a good routine for you, thanks for watching!🧡🚲
I do the same,
Can I use candle for wax ????
Yes works fine 👍
I put a new chain a naphta for an hour, then rinsed it off with acetone for a couple of minutes.
It was so clean that i couldrub it with a white towel. It even smelt like bare steal.
Then i melted 150 grams of white wax (cheP... Probably had dye in it) and stuck the chain in it for 30 minutes while i did the laundry..
I removed the pot, then used a food thermometer to judge when the wax reached 75c and lifted the chain out using the thin bit of wire i had strung through it before. Let it hang for an hour as i watched a movie.
Then its just a atterof runningit over a door handle for a minute to get the flakes off it and popping it back on.
Of course it's a great idea give the chain ring and cassette a good jostling first.
It runs like an absolute dream.
Now here is the amazing part.... I got z bottle of Flower Power wax drip lube to apply once a month (350km). It works fine on top of any parrafin and is judged the best by ZeroFriction Cycling.
I am planning to do a full immersion once every 6 months. Iftime allows, i will boil the chain first to egt all the old wax out, give it a rudementary drying, then dunk it in the wax....
I must say it is WAY easier than cleaning oil off my chain and drive chain .
Once i left my chain for a whole 2 month without cleaning and it got so grundgy that i dreaded the day i cleaned it. That was the day I swore and oath to prep and wax my new chain (which was soon afterwards since my chain died a miserable and early death)
So go get youself a brand new chain and go wax.... Cheap parrafin. Itsgold anditsjust as good. And most of all ITS EASIER THAN OILY LUBE
For starters, just removing the sora front derailleur and its nightmarish micro-adjustment doesn't make me want to take it all off.
What is in that powder Molybdenum Disulphide?
@bikespeeds seen a local bike shop here in the 🇺🇸 offering chain waxing for $50 might do it thanks for the info and video 😁
Good luck! See if it’s for yourself 🧡
I must say, that having previously used oiled chains and then tried waxed chains I have returned to the wet and the dry lubs. Yes, waxing does keep your chain clean but the noise drives me nuts. I was cleaning my chain regularly anyway and not allowing oil residue to build up, I find it easier in my opinion.
The usual cause of noise from a waxed chain is not allowing the chain to heat up in the hot wax . If you dip and remove immediately there is no penetration of the wax in the pins .
I was leaving my chain in the wax for upto 30 minutes. Didn't make a difference.
@@WestKernowCyclist That's plenty of time for the chain to reach the 170 to 200 degrees needed for penetration into the rollers .
Funny thing the noise. I NEVER had a noisy chain or drivetrain after waxing. I don't understand why some do and others like me don't.
Something that’s often over looked when re-waxing a chain is the wear it’s easy to re-wax without measuring the wear in the chain. A worn chain could be the cause of drive train excessive noise
My man! Working on a bike whilst wearing a Rolex OysterQuartz 17013. Class.
🧡⌚️
I waxed my chain in February if this year. I only put about 70 miles on it and was already getting noisy. It was a popular wax too. I stripped the wax off and went back to a regular lube.
What is that bin you use to rinse the parts after they've gone through the sonic cleaner?? It looks incredibly useful.
Hi Mike it’s simply just a run of the mill bucket!🧡
Now i get the Key & Peele skit
Been using was for a while now and wouldn’t go back to an oil based lube.
Getting my chain waxed as we speak. Very excited to try it out
Can you light a candle and let it drip on the chain like drip wax lube
All I do with a new chain is degrease it then wax, I never completely strip everything off the chain because if you do it rusts so it’s pointless then, I don’t have any trouble with wax coming off or anything like that.
Biggest con with chain waxing (I’ve tried it and got all the kit to do it correctly) is it won’t stop your chain rusting.
Waxing is great for one day riding. Touring, bikepacking, and commuting, just don’t bother waxing as its top time consuming to re-wax and even then it won’t stop your chain rusting.
Don’t know why the rusting issue is never bought up in waxing videos, yours is the first time I’ve ever heard anyone ever mention it. 🤔
If you clean off the base coat that a new chain comes with waxing does keep your chain from rusting.
You can buy Super Secret chain lube from Silca and top off a chain wax every 200 miles and only re-wax every 1500 miles.
@@andrewbird6966 No, sorry waxing will not stop a chain from rusting. Ok for race days but for a month of rain like in the UK using a bike everyday, a chain will rust
May not work for you but I've never had a chain rust. I'm already 5,000 miles into a chain with almost zero noticeable wear and absolutely no rust despite many days of rain, snow, and dirt. I've waxed it 5-6 times and topped off with Silca SS lube every 200 miles.
I was considering waxing to protect my chain from road salt up here in Canada. But it doesn't seem like it would solve my rust issue
It will stop rust as long as you wipe down the chain with a dry cloth after its been raining, also that 1st initial clean has too be a deep clean
Leaving chain in petrol for 6 hrs then degreaser for 30 minutes
And isopropyl 99.9 for 30 mins and repeat the isopropyl process 3-4 times until jar or container is crystal clear,
Before you hot wax,
And boiling water over your cassette and jockey after cleaning with isopropyl helps massively
Set a barber shop and nail salon in your chain waxing shop-
It’ll be on 🔥 with that 4-5 week program👊🙌
I have tried it on a regular bike. Only after a short time the chain gets noisy and sounds like its run dry.
What is the volume (liquid capacity) of your Ultrasonic Cleaner? Do you clean MTB cassettes in it as well as road? I'm wondering what's an ideal size for a rider of road/mtb/fat bikes. Thanks!
The one in the video It’s 3 litres we also have a bigger cleaning tank with pump and sink, but to be honest hardly ever use it in comparison to the one we use in the videos. I find three litres cheaper and easier to constantly change (obviously we are commercial rather than hobby) we do have to turn cassettes, especially once they go over 32t ish but it’s easy to do them in half so to speak, so practicality vs running costs 3litres is perfect
Love your videos! question about the mint 365 lube.. ive been trying to get some my self but cant seem to find the syringe/precision applicator you have in the videos. are you able to point me in the right direction for it please?
keep up the great vids! thanks
Mint 365 local bike shop. Syringe, Amazon
Love to watch your videos! Just a question: do yo think is necessary to inmerse the chain in petrol and later on methylated spirits to get it clean?
I’ve never used either, but that’s not to say it’s wrong. If you don’t own an ultrasonic cleaner it’s probably a method that works.
I see you've stripped the coating off your rear derailleur with the ultrasonic cleaner. I've done the same. It did piss me off!
It was actually just a damaged derailleur when it came in, thanks for watching 👍🏼
I think if you know how long to wait before turning off the heat, and how long to wait for cooling you can save having to keep watching the wax, then it's really just a matter of boiling the chain, sticking it in the wax, and taking it out, which is not really a big deal.
04:40 you put wso2 on waxed chain, you should do it first or put it in wax
Great video
i dont think i could bother to go through all that,ill just stick to oiling now and again on my chain and derailer.
When you're waxing a brand new chain, in your experience, is the ultrasonic cleaner enough to get rid of all the factory grease?
Absolutely⚙️
What is all this cooking going on? can´t you just open the wax bottle, wax up the chain nicely, let it dry and that´s it?
Which brand of ultrasonic cleaner do you use?
Just went YOLO and try the drenched parafin wax method. Proper stuff that. Ridden 4 times in light rain and 1 time in heavy rain, not a single thing sticks to my chain.
But i have a question regarding maintenance procedure of waxed chain after a rainy ride. All this time, i just brush the chain from debris, wipe with cloth, and dry them with leaf blower. Almost the same with what you just said. But I see a little surface rust forming between some of the links and some rollers. Does it means it’s time to rewax the chain? So far it’s been 240km from my initial wax.
Without seeing the chain it’s hard to give solid advice, but as a general rule when the chain is rusting it’s time to rewax, it will do no harm to over wax it until you start to figure out the “sweet spot” for your rewaxing🧡
i stop using chain wax after my 2 chains break after 2k kms. shift back to chain oil and last 8-10k kms.
sorry for my bad english.
The chainring in this video looks absolutely knackered.
You don’t need to take your bike into a shop. The cost of workshop labour now is so high that it makes so much more sense for the consumer to buy a £50 ultrasonic cleaner and a £10-15 slow cooker. Less than £100 and you are setup for years with a few packets of wax going forward.
I use 1lbs. of paraffin wax to 50 grams of PTFE powder into a crockpot 👍🏼👍🏼
What kind of wax do you use?
Mspeed wax, which is recognised as the best one
Don’t work in the wet, much goodly in the dry. 500g candle wax, 50g bees wax, 50g ptfe powder - chain lasts 300 miles between waxing. Chain strength is cancelled almost. Cheap slow cooker for heating wax. Just do it
We definitely agree with “just do it” some people get along with it, some don’t, but worth a try for every rider
Can coconut oil be used to dilute the wax?
@@boracay12 i wont do that. As its the solid wax that provides the lubrication. If its too runny it will disappear.
The candle wax is very flaky on its own, the candle wax with ptfe powder is also flaky, but still work
But add a little bees wax it’ll stop the wax flaking off.
When the chain cools down it’ll be very stiff at first, but after refitting to bike it’ll free up and will last a good 300-400 miles.
@@retroonhisbikes the problem I have is product availability here on this island . I'll have to use some kind of alternative . Candle wax by itself is to thick correct ? What do you think is a good alternative to the powder?
@@boracay12 just use candle was
Do you do home wax kits or solutions? I’m so lazy
No, but if your in the U.K. you can always post your chains
I prep my chains with Molten Speed Wax and Teflon powder myself. I buy 4-5 chains at a time and then use a new one for an Ironman or two. After that it becomes my training chain. HOWEVER, I almost never re-wax them again but rather use a wax lube like Squirt or Silca Super Secret Chain lube. I apply this once every 2-3 weeks depending on how wet it’s been.
So with all due respect getting a fully immersed re-waxing is not necessary in my opinion.
Not only do the chain and components stay clean but they last 3-4 times longer as they aren’t worn by the grit that the oil attracts on normal lube.
0:08 your chain ring is half worn, you need chain ring teeth reshape
Wow you really need a new chainring.
Hi. What degreaser do you use/recommend in your ultrasonic cleaner?
I always use a water based degreaser if you’re in the U.K. screwfix do the one we use.
UFC clean is excellent
Can I get that stuff in concentrate so I don't have to pay for the water?
Mineral spirits
There's a lot of left over junk on that chain you showed being installed after the polish powdering. That stuff flies all over the place and into the rotor. Wtf
Getting your chain waxed to save watts but the bike also still has reflectors on the wheels 🙄
😂🤣😂🤣😂
wax is for people who dont clean their bikes. Also paying 1,5h for a rewax is a pure scam. just do it yourself
A dink fukin noooo
There’s a new, hassle-free way and it’s called: CYCLOWAX!
Check it out! I’m hooked!