Pacific Mike is the best teacher for motorcycle mechanics anywhere hands down. Thank you for your videos and knowledge you share with us all. Hope to see you on the road.
"Don't compress the spring" that's what I needed to know! 5-7 tutorials on hydro shovel lifters and this is the first time someone has specified weather the spring should be compressed before the thread count begins.
I don't understand, it has to be the spring compressed, some kind of preload!? Doesn't mean you're going to open a valve previous, that's sound kind of wrong, help me Mike.
Mike, really appreciate your concise teaching here. Quad seal you refer to is a cork seal with four sides? Also my bike is a stock 1981 FLH 80 with SS carb. I ordered new hydraulic lifters for it. My buddy and I suspect It has one lifter out of adjustment from wear and tear. Slightly noisy. He rides a stock 1983 Low Rider 80. He says his service manual covers mine too. He suggested I check my lifter adjustment till new hydraulic lifters arrive. My previous 1983 Ironhead, was a cinch in adjusting the solid lifters. Do you have access to the specs for my stock 81 FLH 80? The 4 turns I understand yet may be different acccording to the year model engine size? I was wondering if it is 4 turns too should I do 2 turns first to wait for push rod to turn freely vs 4 turns (24 flats)? Really appreciated your help with seat post adjustment and your well detailed easy to understand teaching.
Thanks Mike , for all your videos/knowledge , pretty decent mechanic myself & you have helped me perfect a lot of my skills when i wasn't exactly sure , 1964 bottom, 1966 top , 1967 transmission, 1957 ridged frame , partial list of my ride, Thanks Again & MERRY CHRISTMAS !
Merry Christmas and thank you for watching our videos. Great oldtime combination of well picked components. Strong lower end, strongest of the stock rigid frames (prettiest too) and the flow characteristics of an early Shovel.
As always, another "idiot proof" step by step, soup to nuts well produced vid! No ambiguity, no presumption of viewer knowledge, yet no talking to us like imbeciles either. Not only "how to", but also the all important "why do" which most vids lack. Mike and friends, you done nailed another one! The thread pitch caution alone demonstrates the superiority of your effort. I would quite honestly recommend your series to anybody considering turning wrenches on a hog, irregardless of their skill level or experience
Jeez, wish their was an interweb and you had a channel 30 years ago. The short cuts and real world info you have displayed, would have been so good. But at the least you have made my current shovelhead build so much clearer 👌
Mike, you sure do help us all with these very well thought out videos. Thank you so much! The way you explain the procedures and possible hazards of building these bikes and motors, is almost soothing as well as putting comfort in the average guys "do it himself"
I'm taking the top end off of my shovelhead for machining. Your videos have been essential to me. I couldn't get the push rods off until I watched this. Thank you!!
Thank you Mr. Mike I'm putting my 1982 80" shovelhead engine top end back together today just got my heads rebuilt and brand new OEM jugs and pistons back yesterday your videos are the best I have ever watched. LnR
Mike, I want to ride my shovel across country and come out to your place and work on it with you. Couldn’t be happier I found your videos. Your like the Bob Ross of motorcycles.
Mike: I watch every video that you produce and have learned a lot. As a machinist and mechanic I could talk for about an hour on the subject of hydraulic lifters. I sat down and studied my Panhead pushrods in depth and came up with a "horse shoe" lifter gauge that slips on top of the lifter with a step that mimics 3 and 4 turns. No counting flats. Something else I did was I noticed how the front exhaust extends the adjuster really far so I took a shovel head pushrod which is longer and swapped the upper ball end for a Panhead one. -'lil stan
My computer is really acting up today. The valvetrain geometry for Harley Panheads, Shovelheads and Evos is just plain bad. There are so many solutions, each one created by someone doing some great thinking. That front exhaust pushrod is extended so much further and has quite an angle at the contact point. Major stress. Several of the "hot rodder" guys out there have made setups that took the pushrods much deeper into the lifters, thereby lessening that angle. Velva Touch does that. There was a solid lifter setup with long pushrods that went clear to the bottom of the lifter body. Harley made a similar tool to yours (I think they made it about 1981, not sure). Keep going. you may cure all of the inherent ailments in time.
Pacific Mike I just watched your video on adjusting the lifters on a hydraulics on my shovelhead I want to thank you for being the speed that you take care of your business is very important because you get the message across to people and I just want to say thank you getting ready to put my shovel motor back together and that was very helpful thank you
Great video Mike. I really appreciate the info. Cleaning up my 84 FLH and got to the point in reassembly of needing to adjust the lifter. I bought a Climers manual and didn't quit understand their method so I watched your video. Your trick of bleeding the oil out of the lifter was what I needed. Thanks again. Mike.
Hey Mike, I finished the 72 FX. I appreciate all of your help and you were right the wiring wasn’t as much of a project as I had thought it would be. I have photos if you’d like to see. It turns out we have a mutual friend - he told me to mention the Pony Express. Thanks again for the great videos and support! Mike C.
Very cool. Thank you. Sure, send pictures. And, your friend? He forgot, that was "PUNY" Express. Tell him "Hello." And, I still have her. Who is this guy?
@@pacificmike9501 today I just had a recurrence of the front exhaust lifter tapping. It went away after ten minutes and ran nice and quiet. I've examined the lifters and they look very good, no scoring, low miles apparently. Do I need to have a tighter adjustment on that front exhaust lifter? Would it be a "bad"lifter? What do you think of the conversion sets to newer hydraulic lifters?
The front exhaust lifter is the most stressed. It gets it's oil last and the pushrod is at the sharpest angle. Perhaps the oil passage needs to be blown clear of debris. Be sure the tappet screen is clean. Maybe the lifter has to be cleaned. Newer hydraulic lifters are better than the originals, but the problem should be found first.
Need to add this: Removing the cam cover and lifter blocks will allow you to blow out the passages with compressed air from the hole in the crankcase up through the lifter block passages. When reinstalling the original lifters, be sure the holes in the lifters face inward, toward themselves.
I'm in the process of starting to go through a '76 FLH. These videos are helpful for the little old timer tricks the manual doesn't cover. Any tips for rebuilding the E77-earlier front ends? Maybe a video in the future?
We do these things as they come up. When it comes up, we'll be glad to do it. However, if the bushings in the lower legs are worn out, it takes special equipment to install them and ream them to size.
Boy, I am sure glad you mentioned the threads 1/4-24 and 1/4-20 on the block bolts. I have never seen fine threads in aluminum alloy and may have missed it. Thanks!
American stuff is usually 1/4-20 in aluminum. 1/4-28 is fine thread, usually what the British used in cast iron. Then, we have Harley's 1/4-24, used up until about 1972. Anrique Fords used it once in a while too.
That was a really good video. First time I ever seen a video of someone doing it and it was very well explained with great camara work. Awesome being able to rewind so it all sinks in. I would like to add to anyone that if they get a new cam, they need to change those rollers or they need to get new lifters with new rollers on them and have the lifter block fitted to them down at the machine shop. My experience is the old lifters on a new cam will eat them selves up in not too long and possibly send metal through the engine. Also, if you use the teflon oring's on the rocker box's and pushrod tubes, they will never leak again. I think they are getting harder to find though.
Thanks MIKE ! Great explanation of Hydraulic Roller Lifters for ShovelHead ENGINES & The various ways a ROOKIE could get him/her SELF into trouble Thanks again for the CALM & detailed INSTRUCTIONS COOP ..........................................
Hey Mike I was wondering if I could get your email address to send a pic of a bolt on my hubbys motorcycle handle bar we spent 5 hours and tried every tool in his shop to get this bolt off and nothing I wanted to see if you knew what kind of bolt it is? Im not sure how to post the pic on TH-cam thanks
Pacific Mike, I just today stumbled across your channel and after watching this video immediately subscribed. I was a heavy line mechanic for 1 of the major car manufacturers for over 20 years and owned a speed shop specializing in vehicles for the SCCA and custom built street cars (sleepers). I recently purchased a 73 Shovelhead that was torn down in the fall of 73 to be stroked and upgraded with all S&S conversion parts to a 96 cu/in engine however this entire project set in the basement until approximately 2008 because of life's circumstances and basically not knowing what he'd gotten himself into with no mechanical knowledge. The bike and all of the original and upgrade parts were bought by his brother in law and shipped from Illinois to Texas. Personally I wish that everything would've still been in pieces for me to assemble so that I would have known what cam, compression pistons, been able to CC the heads etc. but for everything that came with the bike plus some of the additional parts ie... Wagner front and rear disc brakes, electric start, 2000 & beyond electronic ignition and under 3500 original miles the price was right. The bike was put together by an old timer with a shop that works on nothing newer than the late 80's whose been around for years in the same spot with a warehouse of older bikes and hard to find parts lying around. My plan is to take the engine off and go back through it myself just to know what's inside of it to know where I can go from here with it. My question is do you have a series of videos on these older Shovelhead motors? I have 1 of the original Harley Davidson parts and repair manuals for schematics and wiring diagrams. I'm not trying to make it original but to me like any of us that ride usually want them anyway. It would just be nice to be able to watch more of your videos on these engines and the tricks you've learned along the way.
There's loads of Shovelhead stuff here. Go to TH-cam. Type in Pacific Mike. There is a home page. Type in what you're looking for when you're on TH-cam and loads will come up. Thank You.
Very interesting, and scrolling through your thumbnails I see you on there where you were spoken up arim. In 1979 I worked in the bicycle store and that's where I learned have lace-up Wheels
Hi mike , my bigdog oil pressure is fine . About 14 psi at idle and 35 to 38 at 2000 . So the only thing left is to do the lifters. There is oil being returned to the tank so the oil pump is fine.
Cool. You know, the way the plunger in the "tower" on the oil pump works, it sends oil to the top end until the oil pressure reaches a certain level, then it splits due to the position of that plunger and the oil pressure drops because it is following two paths, one to the top end and one to the bottom end. I hope your engine doesn't have some sort of blockage, starving the top end.
Very cool. When putting a different, high performance cam into an Evo, adjustable pushrods must be used. The stock pushros, for an Evo are non-adjustable.
This and Engels coach building are my current "relax and forget Covid-19" channels. It is tough in south Africa with the draconian lockdown rules, eg we may walk along the beach front sidewalk, but get arrested if we walk on the sand... Nice smile at the end there, Mike!
Hey Mike... It seams that the Clymer manual explains it different.. My bike is a 71 FLH with hydrolic lifters.. It basically says to tighten them down till it just seats then back out 1 3/4 turns.. of course when lifter is on heal of cam.. Just got it running and need to change the push rod o rings because they are leaking a lot.. Thanks.... Great vids....
@@pacificmike9501 well the thing is i am not sure i trust the clymer book... I really was wondering if the way they explain it and the way you demonstrated it are basically the same to achieve the desired end... just from different directions.. Sometimes the book seems vague and leaves me a little confused... And my bike is a 71 not a 79 like yours.. I really appreciate your videos and respect your knowledge.. Thanks
I realise that this is an older video and I actually found it looking for how to remove and install the camshaft anyway thank you very much for your help it looks simple enough but still I am a mechanic not a bike mechanic and I had no idea how to do the tappets on a Shovel and my engine is S&S but I couldn't find a mechanic that would do a valve adjustment and I guess it is a bit time consuming and a mistake could cause some serious damage so thank you for your time and patience Cheers.
This is with a stock camshaft. I did it this way but had a 450' lift camshaft,. 2 burned exhaust valves. Al things sorted right now. I had the cylinder + heads have a full service at super cycles in the Netherlands. So now gonna adjust the lifters 3 full turns (24tpi) Instead of 4 full turns. A learning proces.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks again! The cyl.heads are from 1979. The guy from the shop has checked it all. So I have to trust to it. Thanks for your learning video's.✌️👍
@@pacificmike9501 your a good man your replying to something you did a couple of years ago I learing so much from your vids thanks Keep your knees in the Breeze
Is valve train noise typical after the install of hydraulics after going from solids? I went to hydraulics on my shovel, and mine seem to be noisier after doing so. Also bought some Mid USA adjustable pushrods for shovelheads, and the directions say to go 3 whole turns rather than 4; that the 3 is equal to the typical 4 in length.
@@pacificmike9501 I let it sit over night since posting my comment. Went back this morning and turned them a couple more flats, and that seemed to solve it. I guess sometimes instructions need a little lagniappe.
Different videos of this. You make 4 turns down on push rods and other push the pusk rod completely down to bottom and 1 1/2 turn up? Both are the same? Thank you for all the videos you have made. Regards from wideglide 83 model in Norway 🎉
Their are different year service manuals and one guy approached trhe operation one way, and another guy approached it another way. All of the Shovelheads came with the same solid lifters. So, you are correct, different way to get to the same measurement.
Most of the suppliers carry at least two or three brands. I find all of them to be adequate. After trying them, you'll find your own personal preferences. Thank you for the kind compliment.
I'm sorry, due to terms and conditions, I can't push brands. Cometic, James, and several others are all good. Try them and you'll pick your own favorites.
Hey Mike, great stuff, I like the way you work and explain the things. Well my question referring the adjustment of the push rods on my 76 FLH Shovel: What is exactly the correct position of the engine and the valves to do these 24 moves? I appreciate your tips. Ride on Dude! Sam from Switzerland 😃👍🏽
Remove the spark plugs. Rotate the engine with the front lifters exposed. When the front intake valve lifter goes down, it is closing. When it's all the way down, adjust the pushrod. Wait for the lifter to bleed out its oil. Check to see that the front exhaust lifter is at its very bottom. Now adjust that pushrod and make sure it bleeds down before rotating to do the rear valves.
Mike Great video can you provide a link to the video that shows how to find bottom of the stroke for each jug. I'm not using a mew motor I'm adjusting push rods after putting the heads back onto my 84 shovel and I'm just rotating the motor by turning the rear wheel.
When adjusting valves, you want the lifters at the bottom of their stroke and the piston at the top of its compression stroke. With the spark plugs and pushrods out, rotate the engine until you see the lifters drop. First the exhaust, then the intake. When the intake is as low as it's going to get, the piston is up. You can move that rear wheel a little now, with your finger on a lifter to make sure it's down all the way. You're only working on one cylinder at a time, and after adjusting the pushrods in that cylinder, NEVER ROTATE THE MOTOR UNTIL BOTH OF THOSE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS HAVE BLED DOWN. After the lifters have bled down, and the pushrods can easily be rotated with your fingers, the motor can be rotated to install and adjust the pushrods in the next cylinder.
@@pacificmike9501 Would I not first adjust the pushrod for the intake of one cylinder then with the motor in the same position do the exhaust in the second cylinder then rotate the motor with the wheel and then do the next two exhaust and intakes, I believe I know how to watch the lifter to dind TDC but could you provide a link to your video on how to do this. I'm using a S&S video now but much prefer yours
I've shown installing lifters. I've shown adjusting solids. Go to our homepage. Just type in pacific mike. Click on the knucklehead motor and it will come up. Then, click on the word "videos" and about 340 of them will come up with pictures and descriptions.
Hey mike I’m having trouble getting the cam to the bottom of its stroke, can you post the video where you do that in your reply? Thank you so much as I am new to working on the shovelhead and the videos are an amazing help 🙏🏼
What is so nice about your videos is you actually use tools no electric screwdrivers electric ratchet’s and all that bullshit old school all the way excellent job
Mr Mike your videos are all excellent thanks a lot for the info. I just have a question about the process of installing the lifters. When we install new lifters do we need to fill them internally with oil or do we install them dry as is? Thank you!
They usually come with oil in them. When you install them, always allow them to bleed down before rotating the engine. When I'm all done, and the plugs are still out, I spin the engine over to fill the lifters with oil before starting it. Do this carefully. Don't heat that starter up. When the lifters are quiet, then put the plugs in and start it.
Mike,could you do a set of solid lifters with the spring assist,please? I'm having a tough time adjusting mine on my 114",72 Super Glide. Thanks. Love your videos,Sir!!! VERY informative!!!
I don't havea set of those, at the moment. Adjust them as if they were just solids. If you can turn them (not too hard) when they're adjusted with the valve closed, then they should be fine. As the topend "grows" with heat, the spring should compensate a bit, but they're not really quiet, they are solids.
@@pacificmike9501 They sure sound off,for my taste.. So adjust them like they're solid lifters,huh? Ok,thanks. Great channel,awesome videos! I'm collecting them as i see em,Mike.. 👍😎
@@pacificmike9501 Wow!! Good to hear! I'll be setting up my timing next. Single point ignition,the front cyl sounds great! The rear sounds like its popping in the bottom end of the drag pipe. Could i be too tight on the valves?
Thanks for the videos. Great job - you’re an excellent teacher. They have been very useful, especially if you watch them before you start the repair! A good story - I was able to track down and purchase my first Harley (actual Bike) a 1972 Super Glide FX that I’m restoring to original. Your videos have been extremely y helpful with that and with working on my 1980 Sturgis. I am in the middle of restoring the FX and although a 72 FX with no turn signals and a kick start only, is probably one of the easiest bikes to wire, it is the step I am dreading the most. Have you made, or given any thought on doing, any videos on wiring? Keep up the great work!
I think about it. Most people dread it. Because I had to do it so often, I learned to love it. The easiest way to do your '72, if you want it all stock, is to buy a "reproduction" harness and install it with your manual open. I'm currently finishing up my old road bike, which is a '77 FLH, I bought brand new. I've installed everything I ever wanted on it for my comfort and convenience when travelling. Electronic tach, electronic speedo, turn signals, etc. etc. This bike is going to have a sidecar, so it needs everything. When doing an old chopper, five or six wires and you're good to go. If you decide to do a custom job on your '72, the only suggestion I would make is to "color-code" it. I've done it on custom bikes for years. Just do each system in the colors the factory used in the seventies. So much easier to trouble shoot or get into down the road. For example, tailight green, brake light red, oil sender yellow, headlight blue, left turn signal violet, right turn signal brown,,,,,,
Pacific Mike I do have a replacement harness and I’ll probably do just fine once I do dig into it. I’ll definitely have that diagram layed out. 😎. Thanks Mike!
Another great video for sure. I am just wondering why you are adjusting for a wet application? Per the manual, if dry, you would adjust the rods so that the piston seats against its housing and then loosen exactly 1-3/4 turns? I am a little confused and want to be sure I do it correctly and don't mess anything up. Thanks so much for your time and keep making these videos!
If you look at the different year shovelhead service manuals, you will find it explained differently. Sometimes they say to take the up and down shake out of the pushrods then lengthen them 4 full turns. Sometimes the say to compress them all the way, then back off. It is the same measurement. But, always be sure you have let the lifter bleed down before rotating the engine.
@@pacificmike9501 I have the hydraulic units out and I am going to clean them free from oil. When I install them, at their lowest point, I will take the up and down shake out of the rod and then extend them down 24 flats. Then I will make sure I can spin the rod freely prior to rotating the motor to adjust the next one. Sorry for the long winded reply. Really enjoy all these videos.
I thank you, because I think you got it. Now, before starting it, remove the sparkplugs (I know, they're already out). Spin the engine over, just a few seconds at a time so the lifters can pump up. Then, put the plugs back in and start it.
Remove the sparplugs and rotate the engine by hand. Watch the lifters rise and fall. Exhaust up and down, then intakle up and down (in just that order). When the intake goes down, the exhaust is already down. Now both pushrods and lifters are down with both valves being closed. Rock the engine a little back and forth before adjusting each one to be sure, individually that the lifters are bottomed.
Excellent video. You used a 1/4" ratchet to tighten the blocks fully. Is it possible to over tighten the bolts if one sticks to a 1/4" ratchet? I certainly don't want to crack the lifter blocks.
I'm just used to tightening those with a small ratchet. The book calls out 10 ft.libs. of torque on "tappet guide screws" in the '70-'78 service manual. Yes, they crack, don't overtighten them. And, they loosen up. So don't forget to tighten them, and check them occasionally. Thank you for watching.
Mike, I a bit worried! My Clymer manual advises to screw the adjuster out of the bottom of the push rod and in doing so to compress the upper hydraulic component into the lifter body and bottom it out which involves some lifter spring compression then back it away from that bottomed position by 1 and 1/2 turns for late ‘78 on motors. This adjustment away from a certain ‘bottomed’ position by a fixed amount seems to be a more certain method that compressing the small spring in a fixed amount from where the first tension of that spring occurs in the method you suggest. I would be interested in your views. Cheers Stephen.
Mike I love your channel its been a tremendous help with my Shovel. I do have a question for you though as im kind of in a bind. Im adjusting my pushrods after doing my heads, my forward cylinder EV lifter is not bleeding off allowing it to spin freely after the 24 flats down it calls for in the manual, the IV is fine. These are aftermarket Sifton pushrods and this is a new (economy) lifter from JPC, the only one of the four that I replaced. Any advice would be great, and thanks for helping all of us keep these old machines on the road.
Is that lifter full of oil? Maybe you've bottomed it. Just take the slack out of the pushrod without collapsing the lifter. (This is with the lifter all the way down, bottom). Then extend the pushrod 4 full turns.
great vid, If I remove the push rods, do I need to bleed the lifters B/4 I reinstall the rods? The engine has not been running in3 yrs. your videos have great info, keep em coming
The lifters are probably already bled. You'll know when you feel them as you adjust the pushrods. If you have them out, it's not a bad idea to drain the oil out of them. Just be sure, when you adjust each one, don't rotate the engine again until the lifters you just adjusted, allow the pushrods to turn freely, or you'll do serious damage.
Hi Mike, Terrific video. Thanks for posting. I am re-installing my pushrods for the rear jug on my ‘82 shovel (because I had to replace a blown head gasket) and noticed that the top of the hydraulic tappet (that receives the bottom of the pushrod) for the intake sticks up about ¼ “ or more above the tappet block and the exhaust tappet only sticks up about an 1/8“ at their lowest point (on the heal of cam). In other words, the intake tappet sticks up higher than the exhaust tappet at their lowest point. Am I correct in thinking that they should both be at the same height at their lowest point?
Harley Panheads, Shovelheads, and Evos have crazy valvetrain geometry. Possibly one of your hydraulic units is expanded or coming out. Be very careful on your adjustments. As soon as the hydraulic unit is seated in the lifter, and the lifter is at the bottom of its stroke, you're ready to adjust. If you suspect a lifter is too low, possibly, the roller is damaged. When in doubt, remove the lifter blocks and inspect the lifters. 1982 seems like yesterday to me, but, it was 39 years ago. Check things out carefully.
Great video. I watched this video bcuz I'm having what sounds like a piston slap or knock. But I wanted to learn how to do this hoping maybe I needed this instead. I have an 83 Fxwg. It has around 17k miles on it. I've developed this sound about 3yrs ago or so. Could it possible be this or is it more serious?
when installing the lifter block, you use the 'tools' that appear to just be bolts. How is their use beneficial vs just starting to bolt the block in place since there isn't any adjustment on the lifter block, it's just 4 holes.
Not a bad idea, but don't destroy your starter. Starters are designed for "momentary engagement." Maybe not the right word. But if you lean on that switch too long, you'll burn up the starter. Crank it over (plugs out) a couple revolutions. Wait a minute. Do it again. Pretty soon, you'll have it all circulated with oil. I got an old buddy who builds Knuckleheads. He'll get a motor done. Mount it in the bike, put it in top gear with the plugs out, then push it around the parking lot for quite a while. O course, he's a big powerful guy, about half my age.
Hi Mike, GREAT stuff. One question. When tearing down, freshening up and rebuilding a motor, do the lifters have to go back into the SAME HOLE they came out of? Thanx! Tommy D.
Good question. The lifters should go back into their respective locations. They're used to running there and it is standard procedure to not mix them up. If they've been separated, it becomes a "feel" thing. I always try to keep them together, and, when fitting oversize lifters, I always fit them individually when honing to size. This takes special equipment and knowledge. Don't forget to install Panhead and Shovelhead lifters with the oil holes facing each other.
Hi Mike, just found your channel and love it...subscribed immediately! Your calm and calculated speech makes it a pure joy to listen to and watch. I'm in my 60's, never owned a Harley, but fell in love with the very first Sturgis 1340 Shovel to arrive in Oz (yes, I'm an Aussie), after I had the privilege of taking it out for a little spin (wooden brakes and all)! I now live in Armenia (Eastern Europe) and would love to get my hands on a late 70's/early 80's, naked style FLH. I'm not into speed, but appreciate quality built, solid, reliable machines. Do you build bikes for customers? If so, would you recommend an FLH frame, with a 74" or 80" or an aftermarket engine such as S&S? All the best to you and keep up the good work. Regards, Mitch
I keep finding comments from back a ways. My apologies. I'm retired. I do stuff for myself and occasionally, a friend in need. All those questions have to be answered, "Your build, your choices." Thanx again.
Mike, just to revisit the push rod adjustment. On dry adjustment, there seems to be another method. Some people's method is different. "Adjust the push rod until the push rod collapses completely than adjust it upwards 1 1/2 turns". I surmise that which ever method you use. you arrive at the correct adjustment. Not sure if one method is better or just a matter of choice and experience? This is probably a dumb question, but measuring the lifter at it's compressed and relaxed position and knowing TPI of the push rod, 1 1/2 turn out or 4 turns in, the overall dimension should be the same??? Excuse my reasoning, early in the morning and too much coffee. Thks
The manufacturer of the lifters and pushrods makes their recommendations based on the distance required to get the lifter at the proper length for their design. So, the TPI is a very important factor. How far do they want their lifter collapsed? Okay, based on the TPI, we would then know how many revolutions of pushrod adjuster would be required.
So I’m reading my manual and it says 11/2 turns up from lifter completely collapsed if dry or 4 down if full of oil. I tried both on rear exhaust dry, after four turns down or 24 flats it puts me at 3 full turns to fully collapse the lifter this a Haynes manual telling me this. So I don’t the lifter is in the same place
I am having an oil leak on my front lifter block. This is a 1967 FLH. I removed and replaced with a factory gasket and I still have oil leaking once I get it good and hot. Everything looks good. Do you have any ideas where I could solve this issue. Thanks. I enjoy all your videos.
First, be sure it's the lifter block. Other things have been known to happen there. Clean and dry the crankcase around the lifter block. The place to check is the crankcase under the cylinder. The vertical surface is what I'm wondering. If that's not leaking, it just isn't bad. Make sure the lifter block is not cracked. Make sure the oil is going through the lifter bock and not getting stopped somewhere. Now, if everything else is fine, get a nice thick paper lifter block gasket, spray it with coppercoat, and bolt it down. If it still leaks, this will take further investigation.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the prompt reply. I will take apart again and will do thorough inspection of base of cylinder/case. That factory gasket was paper thin. I will make a point of seeing how flat the two surfaces are. Thanks for the help. Very appreciated. Chuck.
Was the engine free of oil in the case? If it has oil in the case then tightening the pushrod will force oil into the hydraulic lifter and it will be tight before 24 flats are reached even when the lifter has been bled and set gently into its place it will get oil in it... The service manuals all say tighten until lifter bottoms out but when is that exactly? They do not say. And you did not specify or I missed whether the engine is dry or oil filled. I had my 84 shovel set so the line on the crank was just appearing in the timing hole and 24 flats would not allow me to turn the pushrod at all and took 10 opposite turns before I could spin the rod with my fingertips. I am going to pull a lifter out again and see if it is loaded with oil... all videos and manuals I have ever seen never ever clarify this and the HD manual is sadly lacking info for about every subject and I highly recommend not shelling out 100 bucks for it. (electrical problems are difficult enough too especially now that volt/ohm meters have no words but symbols and instruction booklets are written by 8 year old chinese girls!I know what 200K means but next step after is 20m, wtf??? M for million? And you need more m for testing caps and higher m's are only high dollar units.
Okay. I'll try to clear it up. Make sure the lifter is at it's lowest point. We've covered that a lot. Now, extend the pushrod until there is no up and down shake. You can feel it engage in the lifter. Now extend the pushrod 24 flats. Yes, it is stiff. Leave it alone and it will bleed down. I don't care how long this takes. When you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers, it has bled enough. Now go to the next one, but, not before that first one has bled down. I hope this helps you.
Is the exhaust valve life affected by running hydraulic lifters vs solid lifters? It seems like a solid lifter that was properly adjusted would allow a better contact period with the valve seat to dissipate heat vs. a column of mushy oil in a hydraulic lifter. Exhaust valve lash is extremely important in Air Cooled VWs if you don't want burned exhaust valves.
There is give and take in each design. Different designs lend themselves better to diferent applications than others. That's a rather vague, but correct answer. Burnt exhaust valves in VW's? Very common. I avoided it by adjusting my VW valves every 2 weeks. No problems. Most people don't want to do that.
I have a 1973 it’s 1-4-24 tpi and i believe that they changed when you see the flat bottom lifter bolts if they have a angle they are 1/4/24 flat 1/4/20 first year for end oilers to
Not sure. Those 12 point lifter block bolts can be had in both thread pitches. And, stuff get mixed and matched and changed. It's important to look at each 1/4 " bolt on Harleys from the mid-70's back. Remember, this wasn't just lifter blocks. It was cam covers and primaries, and distributors and tranny lids, probably stuff I don't even remember. So, I look at all of them when I pull them. And I keep repair inserts around for everything I use. And, I believe you're correct about end oiler pinion shafts. But, again, dealing with alot of changes, I just wait and be surprised, but be aware it has to all work together. And the learning goes on forever.
Pacific Mike I have been turning wrenches for 50 years and I agree with you that you can always learn something I remember the shovel and I think you should have a keen eye with the parts or motor you have to work on. I know when the end oilers came out and I have Never seen a 12 point flat bottom lifter screw that came with 1/4-24 threads. And if it’s got a 60 degree included angel it’s a 1/4-24 thread I have learned a few things that you are very good about explaining what you are doing. Just another way around the tree and I have to say I love the mouse trap video but when you said a 73 shovel has 1/4-20 thread I don’t think you are wrong I know you are wrong. I have a great 73 I have owned it since 91 it was a very low mileage and with good reason. The clutch didn’t work and upon inspection I found the person who didn’t need a job at the factory had screwed the clutch hub on cocked and they had to hold it like that. And I know that when a bike that year and for the life of shovel heads were a lot of problems. I have never had anyone but me work on my Motorcycle’s and I started with a 1947 Indian chief Roadmaster a blue one.
Okay, I'm sure you're correct. I don't carry everything in my head when it's written in books. However, if you look in aftermarket catalogues and find replacement lifter blocks, you will find 12 pt screws with both 24 and 20 tpi. This is so the lifter blocks can be interchanged. The sort of thing I always look for as a matter of habit. Not worth arguing over. But, when working on other people's bikes, you really don't know what you'll find until you're there. I've been subjected to alot of mix and match stuff, and had to figure it out. I remember long nights with every year service manual that could possibly apply just to figure out an oil pump on aftermarket cases with mix and matched parts. I've turned wrenches all my life and, like I said, the learning goes on forever and I still learn from other guys. I'm sure I could learn stuff from you. I learned alot from my '52 80 inch Chief. I learned a lot back in '69, when I built my '58 Sportster. Hopefully, it goes on forever. Today, I'll work on my '77 Shovel, I bought new in '78. Keep enjoying your Shovel. They are grand.
The FSM (FL/FX 1978-1/2 - 1984) on pg. 3-21, Step 4 says to "turn the adjusting screw down slowly until hydraulic lifter is completely compressed. Then turn it up exactly 1-1/2 turns. Lock the adjustment by turning locknut..." Mike uses a different method here which seems more straightforward. This will be my first time adjusting the valves on my "new" '81 WG. I trust Mike completely but I'm a little nervous not following the FSM. Any advice for a 1st-timer? Thanks Mike, thanks guys!
Well, here's what happened. In 1953, Harley Big Twins got their first hydraulic valve lifters. There was hydraulic pushrods before that. But, that's another conversation. The hydraulic valve lifter introduced for the 1953 Model is the same valve lifter Harley used in their Big Twins all the way through the last Shovelhead (1984). But, they tried to get their explanations down so people could understand them. Different year service manuals explain them differently. But, it's the same lifter. Both methods are correct. Don't ever forget to let them bleed down before rotating the motor.
@@pacificmike9501 Ah thank you Mike...so Harley was revising the instructions along the way...interesting. The FSM method is easy enough to follow but like I said I think your way is more straightforward. Thanks for the reminder about letting the lifters bleed down. I guess that won't affect me this time since I'll be removing the tappets and blocks, cleaning everything (get a peek at the cam too) and then following the adjustment procedure you show here. Thanks so much for answering my question, and for all the great videos too! -Rich
@@pacificmike9501 Ha you made me laugh Mike - at myself mostly. Now I understand - both methods come from Harley they're just found in different-year manuals. I see the light...Thanks again!
Mike, I'm replacing only the tube seals and I'm unable to retract the adjusters enough to remove the pushrods. Should I turn the motor over to the high side of the lobe as so to (hopefully) compress the hydraulic lifter and squeeze the oil out of it? Then I should be able to get the pushrod out of the tappet when I turn it over again to the heel of the cam, correct? Am I on the right track ?
Is this a Shovelhead, or an Evolution? The pushrods should collapse far enough on a Shovelhead, Panhead, or Knucklehead. Not so on an Evolution. If it is an Evolution, you'll have to remove the rocker arms, or go in through the camchest. If it is an earlier motor than an Evo, you may have a problem, like valves seated too deep.
Sure. Depends on where it is, what the gasket material is, and so on. Different sealants for different applications. You'll probably come up with your own favorites in time. I find something I really like, then change to another type of gasket and the rules change.
Pacific Mike is one of the best mechanical tutors I've ever seen on TH-cam.
Thank You.
He explains things so well. If harley davidson made a video of how to, Mike should be the star
I agree totally he has a nice calm voice explaining all that he does
Pacific Mike is the best teacher for motorcycle mechanics anywhere hands down. Thank you for your videos and knowledge you share with us all. Hope to see you on the road.
Thank You. And, I'll look forward to it.
"Don't compress the spring" that's what I needed to know! 5-7 tutorials on hydro shovel lifters and this is the first time someone has specified weather the spring should be compressed before the thread count begins.
Sounds like you're figuring it out. Cool.
I don't understand, it has to be the spring compressed, some kind of preload!?
Doesn't mean you're going to open a valve previous, that's sound kind of wrong, help me Mike.
Mike, really appreciate your concise teaching here. Quad seal you refer to is a cork seal with four sides? Also my bike is a stock 1981 FLH 80 with SS carb. I ordered new hydraulic lifters for it. My buddy and I suspect It has one lifter out of adjustment from wear and tear. Slightly noisy. He rides a stock 1983 Low Rider 80. He says his service manual covers mine too. He suggested I check my lifter adjustment till new hydraulic lifters arrive. My previous 1983 Ironhead, was a cinch in adjusting the solid lifters. Do you have access to the specs for my stock 81 FLH 80? The 4 turns I understand yet may be different acccording to the year model engine size? I was wondering if it is 4 turns too should I do 2 turns first to wait for push rod to turn freely vs 4 turns (24 flats)? Really appreciated your help with seat post adjustment and your well detailed easy to understand teaching.
Thanks Mike , for all your videos/knowledge , pretty decent mechanic myself & you have helped me perfect a lot of my skills when i wasn't exactly sure , 1964 bottom, 1966 top , 1967 transmission, 1957 ridged frame , partial list of my ride, Thanks Again & MERRY CHRISTMAS !
Merry Christmas and thank you for watching our videos. Great oldtime combination of well picked components. Strong lower end, strongest of the stock rigid frames (prettiest too) and the flow characteristics of an early Shovel.
As always, another "idiot proof" step by step, soup to nuts well produced vid! No ambiguity, no presumption of viewer knowledge, yet no talking to us like imbeciles either. Not only "how to", but also the all important "why do" which most vids lack. Mike and friends, you done nailed another one! The thread pitch caution alone demonstrates the superiority of your effort. I would quite honestly recommend your series to anybody considering turning wrenches on a hog, irregardless of their skill level or experience
Quite a compliment. We try. Thank you.
Jeez, wish their was an interweb and you had a channel 30 years ago. The short cuts and real world info you have displayed, would have been so good. But at the least you have made my current shovelhead build so much clearer 👌
That's great. Glad it helps.
Mike, you sure do help us all with these very well thought out videos. Thank you so much! The way you explain the procedures and possible hazards of building these bikes and motors, is almost soothing as well as putting comfort in the average guys "do it himself"
Thank You
I'm taking the top end off of my shovelhead for machining. Your videos have been essential to me. I couldn't get the push rods off until I watched this. Thank you!!
Glad to help
Thank you Mr. Mike I'm putting my 1982 80" shovelhead engine top end back together today just got my heads rebuilt and brand new OEM jugs and pistons back yesterday your videos are the best I have ever watched. LnR
That's great! Thank You.
I have been watching all sorts of repair/ adjustment videos.
Yours are the best I have watched.
Wow, thanks!
Mike, I want to ride my shovel across country and come out to your place and work on it with you. Couldn’t be happier I found your videos. Your like the Bob Ross of motorcycles.
Thank You
Mike:
I watch every video that you produce and have learned a lot.
As a machinist and mechanic I could talk for about an hour on the subject of hydraulic lifters. I sat down and studied my Panhead pushrods in depth and came up with a "horse shoe" lifter gauge that slips on top of the lifter with a step that mimics 3 and 4 turns. No counting flats.
Something else I did was I noticed how the front exhaust extends the adjuster really far so I took a shovel head pushrod which is longer and swapped the upper ball end for a Panhead one.
-'lil stan
My computer is really acting up today. The valvetrain geometry for Harley Panheads, Shovelheads and Evos is just plain bad. There are so many solutions, each one created by someone doing some great thinking. That front exhaust pushrod is extended so much further and has quite an angle at the contact point. Major stress. Several of the "hot rodder" guys out there have made setups that took the pushrods much deeper into the lifters, thereby lessening that angle. Velva Touch does that. There was a solid lifter setup with long pushrods that went clear to the bottom of the lifter body. Harley made a similar tool to yours (I think they made it about 1981, not sure). Keep going. you may cure all of the inherent ailments in time.
They should call you Professor Mike, I don't even own a Harley and I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you.
Thank you for this demonstration on adjusting the lifters and the push rods I was lost on the count but now I have it. Thank you God bless.
Glad it helped! And, the best to you and yours.
Pacific Mike I just watched your video on adjusting the lifters on a hydraulics on my shovelhead I want to thank you for being the speed that you take care of your business is very important because you get the message across to people and I just want to say thank you getting ready to put my shovel motor back together and that was very helpful thank you
Thank You. Enjoy that Shovel. What a prize.
Great vid, Mike. Much appreciated. I'll be going through my 81 Sturgis soon. Good refresher.
Cool. Thank you.
I can't state how important your videos are for me! Thank you
Wow, thank you!
Great video Mike. I really appreciate the info. Cleaning up my 84 FLH and got to the point in reassembly of needing to adjust the lifter. I bought a Climers manual and didn't quit understand their method so I watched your video. Your trick of bleeding the oil out of the lifter was what I needed. Thanks again. Mike.
You're quite welcome. Glad it helped.
We are a few to follow your tutorials on Lyon (France / Europe). Everything is perfectly clear as usual.
Thank you Mike for your videos
Thank You.
Hey Mike, I finished the 72 FX. I appreciate all of your help and you were right the wiring wasn’t as much of a project as I had thought it would be. I have photos if you’d like to see. It turns out we have a mutual friend - he told me to mention the Pony Express. Thanks again for the great videos and support! Mike C.
Very cool. Thank you. Sure, send pictures. And, your friend? He forgot, that was "PUNY" Express. Tell him "Hello." And, I still have her. Who is this guy?
Pacific Mike I’m not sure how to send pictures here... do you have an email address? Robert Crego
My bad on the spelling. I was talking to him on the phone and I must have misunderstood. Very cool that you still have her.
Yah. She's a "family pet."
I've received pictures in comments before. But I'm not real computer savvy. I'll find out today how they do it.
i truly appreciate your posts my friend, ride free and safe
Glad you like it. Thank you.
Of all the videos I watched, this one helped me to solve my lifter problem. Thanks
Cool. I'm glad and, thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 today I just had a recurrence of the front exhaust lifter tapping. It went away after ten minutes and ran nice and quiet. I've examined the lifters and they look very good, no scoring, low miles apparently. Do I need to have a tighter adjustment on that front exhaust lifter? Would it be a "bad"lifter? What do you think of the conversion sets to newer hydraulic lifters?
The front exhaust lifter is the most stressed. It gets it's oil last and the pushrod is at the sharpest angle. Perhaps the oil passage needs to be blown clear of debris. Be sure the tappet screen is clean. Maybe the lifter has to be cleaned. Newer hydraulic lifters are better than the originals, but the problem should be found first.
Need to add this: Removing the cam cover and lifter blocks will allow you to blow out the passages with compressed air from the hole in the crankcase up through the lifter block passages. When reinstalling the original lifters, be sure the holes in the lifters face inward, toward themselves.
I'm in the process of starting to go through a '76 FLH. These videos are helpful for the little old timer tricks the manual doesn't cover.
Any tips for rebuilding the E77-earlier front ends? Maybe a video in the future?
We do these things as they come up. When it comes up, we'll be glad to do it. However, if the bushings in the lower legs are worn out, it takes special equipment to install them and ream them to size.
Boy, I am sure glad you mentioned the threads 1/4-24 and 1/4-20 on the block bolts. I have never seen fine threads in aluminum alloy and may have missed it. Thanks!
American stuff is usually 1/4-20 in aluminum. 1/4-28 is fine thread, usually what the British used in cast iron. Then, we have Harley's 1/4-24, used up until about 1972. Anrique Fords used it once in a while too.
Just got to this stage so had a cup of Tea and watched how to do it. Now to put it into practice. Thanks Mike
Take it slow and enjoy it. Thank You.
That was a really good video. First time I ever seen a video of someone doing it and it was very well explained with great camara work. Awesome being able to rewind so it all sinks in. I would like to add to anyone that if they get a new cam, they need to change those rollers or they need to get new lifters with new rollers on them and have the lifter block fitted to them down at the machine shop. My experience is the old lifters on a new cam will eat them selves up in not too long and possibly send metal through the engine. Also, if you use the teflon oring's on the rocker box's and pushrod tubes, they will never leak again. I think they are getting harder to find though.
They are available from Drag Specialties.
Thanks MIKE !
Great explanation of Hydraulic Roller Lifters for ShovelHead ENGINES
&
The various ways a ROOKIE could get him/her SELF into trouble
Thanks again for the CALM & detailed INSTRUCTIONS
COOP
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Thank You.
Hey Mike I was wondering if I could get your email address to send a pic of a bolt on my hubbys motorcycle handle bar we spent 5 hours and tried every tool in his shop to get this bolt off and nothing I wanted to see if you knew what kind of bolt it is? Im not sure how to post the pic on TH-cam thanks
Pacific Mike, I just today stumbled across your channel and after watching this video immediately subscribed. I was a heavy line mechanic for 1 of the major car manufacturers for over 20 years and owned a speed shop specializing in vehicles for the SCCA and custom built street cars (sleepers). I recently purchased a 73 Shovelhead that was torn down in the fall of 73 to be stroked and upgraded with all S&S conversion parts to a 96 cu/in engine however this entire project set in the basement until approximately 2008 because of life's circumstances and basically not knowing what he'd gotten himself into with no mechanical knowledge. The bike and all of the original and upgrade parts were bought by his brother in law and shipped from Illinois to Texas. Personally I wish that everything would've still been in pieces for me to assemble so that I would have known what cam, compression pistons, been able to CC the heads etc. but for everything that came with the bike plus some of the additional parts ie... Wagner front and rear disc brakes, electric start, 2000 & beyond electronic ignition and under 3500 original miles the price was right. The bike was put together by an old timer with a shop that works on nothing newer than the late 80's whose been around for years in the same spot with a warehouse of older bikes and hard to find parts lying around. My plan is to take the engine off and go back through it myself just to know what's inside of it to know where I can go from here with it. My question is do you have a series of videos on these older Shovelhead motors? I have 1 of the original Harley Davidson parts and repair manuals for schematics and wiring diagrams. I'm not trying to make it original but to me like any of us that ride usually want them anyway. It would just be nice to be able to watch more of your videos on these engines and the tricks you've learned along the way.
There's loads of Shovelhead stuff here. Go to TH-cam. Type in Pacific Mike. There is a home page. Type in what you're looking for when you're on TH-cam and loads will come up. Thank You.
By all means, buy a Year and Model appropriate Harley Davidson Service Manual. Try Tedd Cycle in New York for genuine manuals.
Very interesting, and scrolling through your thumbnails I see you on there where you were spoken up arim. In 1979 I worked in the bicycle store and that's where I learned have lace-up Wheels
Yah, it's fun stuff.
Hi mike , my bigdog oil pressure is fine . About 14 psi at idle and 35 to 38 at 2000 . So the only thing left is to do the lifters. There is oil being returned to the tank so the oil pump is fine.
Cool. You know, the way the plunger in the "tower" on the oil pump works, it sends oil to the top end until the oil pressure reaches a certain level, then it splits due to the position of that plunger and the oil pressure drops because it is following two paths, one to the top end and one to the bottom end. I hope your engine doesn't have some sort of blockage, starving the top end.
Hello Mike, with videos I learn and understand my 68 Harley more and more - video by video! Thank you, even it is in english.
Thank you, and try Google Translate.
Second time I watched this mike, your methods are great, your voice melodic, appreciate it!
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Great work Mike, thorough step by step with proper alignment tools and technical explaining.👌🏻
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank You
Great video Mike!
Doing pushrods on my 84FLHX White one bought it new at dealership in central Texas in 87 with 1 mile on her. Still riding her.
Very cool. When putting a different, high performance cam into an Evo, adjustable pushrods must be used. The stock pushros, for an Evo are non-adjustable.
Thank you so much for your knowledge and videos you have helped me so much over the past few months
Glad to help
I like doin things right the first time and as perfect as I can. Pride in your work.
I like doing my best and taking responsibility for the outcome.
Hi MIKE,
Thanks for ALL the Tips & Hints
COOP
...................................
You bet! Thanx for watching.
This and Engels coach building are my current "relax and forget Covid-19" channels. It is tough in south Africa with the draconian lockdown rules, eg we may walk along the beach front sidewalk, but get arrested if we walk on the sand... Nice smile at the end there, Mike!
Thank You, and I hope things get a lot better very soon.
Great info Mike.
I like your pushrod tube holder! Them ole clothes pins always seem to get in the way!
Thanks Mike!
Beautiful engine!
Thank you.
Hey Mike...
It seams that the Clymer manual explains it different..
My bike is a 71 FLH with hydrolic lifters..
It basically says to tighten them down till it just seats then back out 1 3/4 turns.. of course when lifter is on heal of cam..
Just got it running and need to change the push rod o rings because they are leaking a lot..
Thanks....
Great vids....
Okay. Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 well the thing is i am not sure i trust the clymer book...
I really was wondering if the way they explain it and the way you demonstrated it are basically the same to achieve the desired end... just from different directions..
Sometimes the book seems vague and leaves me a little confused...
And my bike is a 71 not a 79 like yours..
I really appreciate your videos and respect your knowledge..
Thanks
gracias por la claridad de tus explicaciones, no dejan lugar a dudas
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Very cool that you’re doing this and thank you for that do you have a video on rocker box assembly and shimming rockers?
Look at our TH-cam Home Page. Go to the word that says "Playlists." Click on the one for Shovelhead Engine work. It's in there.
I use a block of wood I made to fit between two wrenches and tape them together to hold the two top nuts so I have three hands to adjust the lifter.
Cool.
Mike I have to say outstanding video thank you. nothing but the best bro from you. bless you man
Thank you.
Miss you Mike ,it's Cody from Kenny's shop . Glad to see your doing good !
Thanks Cody! Hope you're doing well too.
Fantastic work, Mike…..I learned a whole lotta stuff
Glad it was helpful!
Your video really helped me for my shovel head thank you very much sir.
Glad it helped
Thanks, after reinstalling the back cilinderhead I will adjust the valves as shown 👍
Sounds good!
I realise that this is an older video and I actually found it looking for how to remove and install the camshaft anyway thank you very much for your help it looks simple enough but still I am a mechanic not a bike mechanic and I had no idea how to do the tappets on a Shovel and my engine is S&S but I couldn't find a mechanic that would do a valve adjustment and I guess it is a bit time consuming and a mistake could cause some serious damage so thank you for your time and patience Cheers.
Glad it helped
Very informative, looking forward to the next brother
Thank you. Glad to be of service.
This is with a stock camshaft. I did it this way but had a 450' lift camshaft,. 2 burned exhaust valves. Al things sorted right now. I had the cylinder + heads have a full service at super cycles in the Netherlands. So now gonna adjust the lifters 3 full turns (24tpi) Instead of 4 full turns. A learning proces.
Sounds like you ought to check the spring height on your valves. Also sounds like you might be using 1981 heads. Check with cam mfgr. on this one.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks again! The cyl.heads are from 1979. The guy from the shop has checked it all. So I have to trust to it. Thanks for your learning video's.✌️👍
Doing a brilliant job as always easy to take in and understand thanks
Glad you enjoy it.
@@pacificmike9501 your a good man your replying to something you did a couple of years ago I learing so much from your vids thanks
Keep your knees in the Breeze
Mike, have you ever considered a compilation of your tutorials in single web page form? Lots of good material.
Thank You. Lots of stuff bounces around in my head. Not sure what to do.
Necessity is the mother of invention.
Yep.
Is valve train noise typical after the install of hydraulics after going from solids? I went to hydraulics on my shovel, and mine seem to be noisier after doing so. Also bought some Mid USA adjustable pushrods for shovelheads, and the directions say to go 3 whole turns rather than 4; that the 3 is equal to the typical 4 in length.
Glad you read the directions. Obviously different thread. Noisy? Are you sure they're getting their oil?
@@pacificmike9501 I let it sit over night since posting my comment. Went back this morning and turned them a couple more flats, and that seemed to solve it. I guess sometimes instructions need a little lagniappe.
Ok instead of using that tool I use a clothes pin to hold the tube up but this guy is good and very knowledgeable 👍
Whatever works for you is cool. I only show how I do things. That doesn't make it the best. It's just what I do.
This bloke is the real deal. Fantastic.
Thank You.
many thanks Mike for this vidéo , wich is véry helpfull for me today ! Happy new year!!!
Happy new year! Glad it helped you.
Different videos of this. You make 4 turns down on push rods and other push the pusk rod completely down to bottom and 1 1/2 turn up? Both are the same? Thank you for all the videos you have made. Regards from wideglide 83 model in Norway 🎉
Their are different year service manuals and one guy approached trhe operation one way, and another guy approached it another way. All of the Shovelheads came with the same solid lifters. So, you are correct, different way to get to the same measurement.
Could you give me some good choices for shovelhead gaskets please? Outstanding video Mike! You are a great teacher. Thank you!
Most of the suppliers carry at least two or three brands. I find all of them to be adequate. After trying them, you'll find your own personal preferences. Thank you for the kind compliment.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. Would you tell me what brand you prefer?
I'm sorry, due to terms and conditions, I can't push brands. Cometic, James, and several others are all good. Try them and you'll pick your own favorites.
Hey Mike, great stuff, I like the way you work and explain the things.
Well my question referring the adjustment of the push rods on my 76 FLH Shovel:
What is exactly the correct position of the engine and the valves to do these 24 moves?
I appreciate your tips.
Ride on Dude!
Sam from Switzerland 😃👍🏽
Remove the spark plugs. Rotate the engine with the front lifters exposed. When the front intake valve lifter goes down, it is closing. When it's all the way down, adjust the pushrod. Wait for the lifter to bleed out its oil. Check to see that the front exhaust lifter is at its very bottom. Now adjust that pushrod and make sure it bleeds down before rotating to do the rear valves.
Another great Vid in this series. Not sure if I’ve missed one or not haha. I’ll just keep going through them. Can never know too much 😎👍
Cheers
Glad you like them!
Mike Great video can you provide a link to the video that shows how to find bottom of the stroke for each jug. I'm not using a mew motor I'm adjusting push rods after putting the heads back onto my 84 shovel and I'm just rotating the motor by turning the rear wheel.
When adjusting valves, you want the lifters at the bottom of their stroke and the piston at the top of its compression stroke. With the spark plugs and pushrods out, rotate the engine until you see the lifters drop. First the exhaust, then the intake. When the intake is as low as it's going to get, the piston is up. You can move that rear wheel a little now, with your finger on a lifter to make sure it's down all the way. You're only working on one cylinder at a time, and after adjusting the pushrods in that cylinder, NEVER ROTATE THE MOTOR UNTIL BOTH OF THOSE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS HAVE BLED DOWN. After the lifters have bled down, and the pushrods can easily be rotated with your fingers, the motor can be rotated to install and adjust the pushrods in the next cylinder.
@@pacificmike9501 Would I not first adjust the pushrod for the intake of one cylinder then with the motor in the same position do the exhaust in the second cylinder then rotate the motor with the wheel and then do the next two exhaust and intakes, I believe I know how to watch the lifter to dind TDC but could you provide a link to your video on how to do this. I'm using a S&S video now but much prefer yours
Very helpful..been along time since I have had one. Back at it again
Welcome back.
Mike could you please do a tutorial on replacing hydraulic lifters with solid lifters on my 1980 FXB Sturgis? Thanks
I've shown installing lifters. I've shown adjusting solids. Go to our homepage. Just type in pacific mike. Click on the knucklehead motor and it will come up. Then, click on the word "videos" and about 340 of them will come up with pictures and descriptions.
Hey mike I’m having trouble getting the cam to the bottom of its stroke, can you post the video where you do that in your reply? Thank you so much as I am new to working on the shovelhead and the videos are an amazing help 🙏🏼
Thank You. With the sparplugs out, put your fingers on the valve lifters. Rotate the engine until both lifters of one cylinder are bottomed.
Another very informative video Mike,,thanks and keep them coming
Glad you like it. Thank you.
outstanding video. thank you!
Thank you. Glad you're enjoying it.
Hello Mike! Awesome video subscribed and clicked on the bell for future awesome videos. 🙂
Thank You. Welcome aboard.
Awesome, wish Mike was my old Shop Teacher.
Thank You.
What is so nice about your videos is you actually use tools no electric screwdrivers electric ratchet’s and all that bullshit old school all the way excellent job
Thank You.
Thanks Mike for a superior explanation.
Thank You. I'm glad if it was helpful.
Mr Mike your videos are all excellent thanks a lot for the info. I just have a question about the process of installing the lifters. When we install new lifters do we need to fill them internally with oil or do we install them dry as is? Thank you!
They usually come with oil in them. When you install them, always allow them to bleed down before rotating the engine. When I'm all done, and the plugs are still out, I spin the engine over to fill the lifters with oil before starting it. Do this carefully. Don't heat that starter up. When the lifters are quiet, then put the plugs in and start it.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much Mike! You're a great mechanic and human. Thank you.
Mike,could you do a set of solid lifters with the spring assist,please? I'm having a tough time adjusting mine on my 114",72 Super Glide. Thanks. Love your videos,Sir!!! VERY informative!!!
I don't havea set of those, at the moment. Adjust them as if they were just solids. If you can turn them (not too hard) when they're adjusted with the valve closed, then they should be fine. As the topend "grows" with heat, the spring should compensate a bit, but they're not really quiet, they are solids.
@@pacificmike9501
They sure sound off,for my taste.. So adjust them like they're solid lifters,huh? Ok,thanks. Great channel,awesome videos! I'm collecting them as i see em,Mike.. 👍😎
Thank you. If you go to our TH-cam homepage, I believe we have 140 videos.
@@pacificmike9501
Wow!! Good to hear! I'll be setting up my timing next. Single point ignition,the front cyl sounds great! The rear sounds like its popping in the bottom end of the drag pipe. Could i be too tight on the valves?
Need more info. What is the bike? Gimme year, brand, and model. What is the carburetor? Bikes are not all the same.
Always thorough videos. Much appreciated. Did I miss the part how you got it on the heel of the Cam?
I showed it in valve adjusting videos.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks buddy. Keep these Shovel Head Videos coming! Have an 82 Shovel and you have taught me quite a bit
Thanks for the videos. Great job - you’re an excellent teacher. They have been very useful, especially if you watch them before you start the repair! A good story - I was able to track down and purchase my first Harley (actual Bike) a 1972 Super Glide FX that I’m restoring to original. Your videos have been extremely y helpful with that and with working on my 1980 Sturgis. I am in the middle of restoring the FX and although a 72 FX with no turn signals and a kick start only, is probably one of the easiest bikes to wire, it is the step I am dreading the most. Have you made, or given any thought on doing, any videos on wiring? Keep up the great work!
I think about it. Most people dread it. Because I had to do it so often, I learned to love it. The easiest way to do your '72, if you want it all stock, is to buy a "reproduction" harness and install it with your manual open. I'm currently finishing up my old road bike, which is a '77 FLH, I bought brand new. I've installed everything I ever wanted on it for my comfort and convenience when travelling. Electronic tach, electronic speedo, turn signals, etc. etc. This bike is going to have a sidecar, so it needs everything. When doing an old chopper, five or six wires and you're good to go. If you decide to do a custom job on your '72, the only suggestion I would make is to "color-code" it. I've done it on custom bikes for years. Just do each system in the colors the factory used in the seventies. So much easier to trouble shoot or get into down the road. For example, tailight green, brake light red, oil sender yellow, headlight blue, left turn signal violet, right turn signal brown,,,,,,
Pacific Mike I do have a replacement harness and I’ll probably do just fine once I do dig into it. I’ll definitely have that diagram layed out. 😎. Thanks Mike!
You bet. It will be great.
Another great video for sure. I am just wondering why you are adjusting for a wet application? Per the manual, if dry, you would adjust the rods so that the piston seats against its housing and then loosen exactly 1-3/4 turns? I am a little confused and want to be sure I do it correctly and don't mess anything up. Thanks so much for your time and keep making these videos!
If you look at the different year shovelhead service manuals, you will find it explained differently. Sometimes they say to take the up and down shake out of the pushrods then lengthen them 4 full turns. Sometimes the say to compress them all the way, then back off. It is the same measurement. But, always be sure you have let the lifter bleed down before rotating the engine.
@@pacificmike9501 I have the hydraulic units out and I am going to clean them free from oil. When I install them, at their lowest point, I will take the up and down shake out of the rod and then extend them down 24 flats. Then I will make sure I can spin the rod freely prior to rotating the motor to adjust the next one. Sorry for the long winded reply. Really enjoy all these videos.
I thank you, because I think you got it. Now, before starting it, remove the sparkplugs (I know, they're already out). Spin the engine over, just a few seconds at a time so the lifters can pump up. Then, put the plugs back in and start it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you!
I just have to adjust the rear head. How do you set up the motor so you can adjust both rods at the same time....thanks for your time
Remove the sparplugs and rotate the engine by hand. Watch the lifters rise and fall. Exhaust up and down, then intakle up and down (in just that order). When the intake goes down, the exhaust is already down. Now both pushrods and lifters are down with both valves being closed. Rock the engine a little back and forth before adjusting each one to be sure, individually that the lifters are bottomed.
Excellent video. You used a 1/4" ratchet to tighten the blocks fully. Is it possible to over tighten the bolts if one sticks to a 1/4" ratchet? I certainly don't want to crack the lifter blocks.
I'm just used to tightening those with a small ratchet. The book calls out 10 ft.libs. of torque on "tappet guide screws" in the '70-'78 service manual. Yes, they crack, don't overtighten them. And, they loosen up. So don't forget to tighten them, and check them occasionally. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your response is enlightening; the torque required is a lot less than I would have guessed!
Thank you, and we always advise getting a proper service manual.
Mike, I a bit worried! My Clymer manual advises to screw the adjuster out of the bottom of the push rod and in doing so to compress the upper hydraulic component into the lifter body and bottom it out which involves some lifter spring compression then back it away from that bottomed position by 1 and 1/2 turns for late ‘78 on motors. This adjustment away from a certain ‘bottomed’ position by a fixed amount seems to be a more certain method that compressing the small spring in a fixed amount from where the first tension of that spring occurs in the method you suggest. I would be interested in your views. Cheers Stephen.
Different method for acheiving the same final adjustment. Different eras, different methods.
It depends on which book you use.
Mike I love your channel its been a tremendous help with my Shovel. I do have a question for you though as im kind of in a bind. Im adjusting my pushrods after doing my heads, my forward cylinder EV lifter is not bleeding off allowing it to spin freely after the 24 flats down it calls for in the manual, the IV is fine. These are aftermarket Sifton pushrods and this is a new (economy) lifter from JPC, the only one of the four that I replaced. Any advice would be great, and thanks for helping all of us keep these old machines on the road.
Is that lifter full of oil? Maybe you've bottomed it. Just take the slack out of the pushrod without collapsing the lifter. (This is with the lifter all the way down, bottom). Then extend the pushrod 4 full turns.
great vid, If I remove the push rods, do I need to bleed the lifters B/4 I reinstall the rods? The engine has not been running in3 yrs. your videos have great info, keep em coming
The lifters are probably already bled. You'll know when you feel them as you adjust the pushrods. If you have them out, it's not a bad idea to drain the oil out of them. Just be sure, when you adjust each one, don't rotate the engine again until the lifters you just adjusted, allow the pushrods to turn freely, or you'll do serious damage.
Thanks for another useful video.
Glad you like it. Thank you.
Could you show how to inspect and do a valve job on a 80 cu. In. Shovelhead. Thanks Mike
We'll get into heads soon. Thank You.
Hi Mike, Terrific video. Thanks for posting. I am re-installing my pushrods for the rear jug on my ‘82 shovel (because I had to replace a blown head gasket) and noticed that the top of the hydraulic tappet (that receives the bottom of the pushrod) for the intake sticks up about ¼ “ or more above the tappet block and the exhaust tappet only sticks up about an 1/8“ at their lowest point (on the heal of cam). In other words, the intake tappet sticks up higher than the exhaust tappet at their lowest point. Am I correct in thinking that they should both be at the same height at their lowest point?
Harley Panheads, Shovelheads, and Evos have crazy valvetrain geometry. Possibly one of your hydraulic units is expanded or coming out. Be very careful on your adjustments. As soon as the hydraulic unit is seated in the lifter, and the lifter is at the bottom of its stroke, you're ready to adjust. If you suspect a lifter is too low, possibly, the roller is damaged. When in doubt, remove the lifter blocks and inspect the lifters. 1982 seems like yesterday to me, but, it was 39 years ago. Check things out carefully.
Great video. I watched this video bcuz I'm having what sounds like a piston slap or knock. But I wanted to learn how to do this hoping maybe I needed this instead. I have an 83 Fxwg. It has around 17k miles on it. I've developed this sound about 3yrs ago or so. Could it possible be this or is it more serious?
Very low mileage bike. Sits a lot. Oil could be pretty bad. Change oil with time intervals rather than mileage. Could very easily be dirty lifters.
when installing the lifter block, you use the 'tools' that appear to just be bolts. How is their use beneficial vs just starting to bolt the block in place since there isn't any adjustment on the lifter block, it's just 4 holes.
They are special bolts that have a large taper on top. The holes in the lifte blocks are slightly large. The tools center the lifter block.
Be nice to see how you get that motor oiled up ready for use.
Everything together with assembly lube. Then, crank it over with the sparkplugs out for circulation and to pump up the hydraulic lifters.
Pacific Mike thanks Mike I plan to wizz it over for a while
Not a bad idea, but don't destroy your starter. Starters are designed for "momentary engagement." Maybe not the right word. But if you lean on that switch too long, you'll burn up the starter. Crank it over (plugs out) a couple revolutions. Wait a minute. Do it again. Pretty soon, you'll have it all circulated with oil. I got an old buddy who builds Knuckleheads. He'll get a motor done. Mount it in the bike, put it in top gear with the plugs out, then push it around the parking lot for quite a while. O course, he's a big powerful guy, about half my age.
Pacific Mike that sounds like a good ideal great believer in getting that oil through the system.
You bet.
Hi Mike, GREAT stuff. One question. When tearing down, freshening up and rebuilding a motor, do the lifters have to go back into the SAME HOLE they came out of? Thanx! Tommy D.
Good question. The lifters should go back into their respective locations. They're used to running there and it is standard procedure to not mix them up. If they've been separated, it becomes a "feel" thing. I always try to keep them together, and, when fitting oversize lifters, I always fit them individually when honing to size. This takes special equipment and knowledge. Don't forget to install Panhead and Shovelhead lifters with the oil holes facing each other.
Hi Mike, just found your channel and love it...subscribed immediately! Your calm and calculated speech makes it a pure joy to listen to and watch. I'm in my 60's, never owned a Harley, but fell in love with the very first Sturgis 1340 Shovel to arrive in Oz (yes, I'm an Aussie), after I had the privilege of taking it out for a little spin (wooden brakes and all)! I now live in Armenia (Eastern Europe) and would love to get my hands on a late 70's/early 80's, naked style FLH. I'm not into speed, but appreciate quality built, solid, reliable machines. Do you build bikes for customers? If so, would you recommend an FLH frame, with a 74" or 80" or an aftermarket engine such as S&S? All the best to you and keep up the good work. Regards, Mitch
I keep finding comments from back a ways. My apologies. I'm retired. I do stuff for myself and occasionally, a friend in need. All those questions have to be answered, "Your build, your choices." Thanx again.
Mike, just to revisit the push rod adjustment. On dry adjustment, there seems to be another method. Some people's method is different. "Adjust the push rod until the push rod collapses completely than adjust it upwards 1 1/2 turns". I surmise that which ever method you use. you arrive at the correct adjustment. Not sure if one method is better or just a matter of choice and experience? This is probably a dumb question, but measuring the lifter at it's compressed and relaxed position and knowing TPI of the push rod, 1 1/2 turn out or 4 turns in, the overall dimension should be the same??? Excuse my reasoning, early in the morning and too much coffee. Thks
The manufacturer of the lifters and pushrods makes their recommendations based on the distance required to get the lifter at the proper length for their design. So, the TPI is a very important factor. How far do they want their lifter collapsed? Okay, based on the TPI, we would then know how many revolutions of pushrod adjuster would be required.
Now getting my first cup of coffee this morning.
So I’m reading my manual and it says 11/2 turns up from lifter completely collapsed if dry or 4 down if full of oil. I tried both on rear exhaust dry, after four turns down or 24 flats it puts me at 3 full turns to fully collapse the lifter this a Haynes manual telling me this. So I don’t the lifter is in the same place
I guess I’m going to go with the video
I am having an oil leak on my front lifter block. This is a 1967 FLH. I removed and replaced with a factory gasket and I still have oil leaking once I get it good and hot. Everything looks good. Do you have any ideas where I could solve this issue. Thanks. I enjoy all your videos.
First, be sure it's the lifter block. Other things have been known to happen there. Clean and dry the crankcase around the lifter block. The place to check is the crankcase under the cylinder. The vertical surface is what I'm wondering. If that's not leaking, it just isn't bad. Make sure the lifter block is not cracked. Make sure the oil is going through the lifter bock and not getting stopped somewhere. Now, if everything else is fine, get a nice thick paper lifter block gasket, spray it with coppercoat, and bolt it down. If it still leaks, this will take further investigation.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the prompt reply. I will take apart again and will do thorough inspection of base of cylinder/case. That factory gasket was paper thin. I will make a point of seeing how flat the two surfaces are. Thanks for the help. Very appreciated. Chuck.
Was the engine free of oil in the case? If it has oil in the case then tightening the pushrod will force oil into the hydraulic lifter and it will be tight before 24 flats are reached even when the lifter has been bled and set gently into its place it will get oil in it... The service manuals all say tighten until lifter bottoms out but when is that exactly? They do not say. And you did not specify or I missed whether the engine is dry or oil filled. I had my 84 shovel set so the line on the crank was just appearing in the timing hole and 24 flats would not allow me to turn the pushrod at all and took 10 opposite turns before I could spin the rod with my fingertips. I am going to pull a lifter out again and see if it is loaded with oil...
all videos and manuals I have ever seen never ever clarify this and the HD manual is sadly lacking info for about every subject and I highly recommend not shelling out 100 bucks for it.
(electrical problems are difficult enough too especially now that volt/ohm meters have no words but symbols and instruction booklets are written by 8 year old chinese girls!I know what 200K means but next step after is 20m, wtf??? M for million? And you need more m for testing caps and higher m's are only high dollar units.
Okay. I'll try to clear it up. Make sure the lifter is at it's lowest point. We've covered that a lot. Now, extend the pushrod until there is no up and down shake. You can feel it engage in the lifter. Now extend the pushrod 24 flats. Yes, it is stiff. Leave it alone and it will bleed down. I don't care how long this takes. When you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers, it has bled enough. Now go to the next one, but, not before that first one has bled down. I hope this helps you.
@@pacificmike9501 yes it does though it took a while for me to reply!
Hi Mike, What are your thoughts on putting a very thin coat of Permatex silicone on the lifter stool gaskets to ensure a good seal. Thanks!
I don't use silicone on lifter blocks. I try not to recommend brands, but gasket sealant with copper suspended in it works very well.
Is the exhaust valve life affected by running hydraulic lifters vs solid lifters? It seems like a solid lifter that was properly adjusted would allow a better contact period with the valve seat to dissipate heat vs. a column of mushy oil in a hydraulic lifter. Exhaust valve lash is extremely important in Air Cooled VWs if you don't want burned exhaust valves.
There is give and take in each design. Different designs lend themselves better to diferent applications than others. That's a rather vague, but correct answer. Burnt exhaust valves in VW's? Very common. I avoided it by adjusting my VW valves every 2 weeks. No problems. Most people don't want to do that.
Hey mike so when adjusting pushrods..for hydraulic lifters you want them at the highest point and solid lifters you want them at the lowest point?
Adjust at the lowest point on the cam (the "heel" of the lobe). This is true of both solids and hydraulics.
I have a 1973 it’s 1-4-24 tpi and i believe that they changed when you see the flat bottom lifter bolts if they have a angle they are 1/4/24 flat 1/4/20 first year for end oilers to
Not sure. Those 12 point lifter block bolts can be had in both thread pitches. And, stuff get mixed and matched and changed. It's important to look at each 1/4 " bolt on Harleys from the mid-70's back. Remember, this wasn't just lifter blocks. It was cam covers and primaries, and distributors and tranny lids, probably stuff I don't even remember. So, I look at all of them when I pull them. And I keep repair inserts around for everything I use. And, I believe you're correct about end oiler pinion shafts. But, again, dealing with alot of changes, I just wait and be surprised, but be aware it has to all work together. And the learning goes on forever.
Pacific Mike I have been turning wrenches for 50 years and I agree with you that you can always learn something I remember the shovel and I think you should have a keen eye with the parts or motor you have to work on. I know when the end oilers came out and I have Never seen a 12 point flat bottom lifter screw that came with 1/4-24 threads. And if it’s got a 60 degree included angel it’s a 1/4-24 thread I have learned a few things that you are very good about explaining what you are doing. Just another way around the tree and I have to say I love the mouse trap video but when you said a 73 shovel has 1/4-20 thread I don’t think you are wrong I know you are wrong. I have a great 73 I have owned it since 91 it was a very low mileage and with good reason. The clutch didn’t work and upon inspection I found the person who didn’t need a job at the factory had screwed the clutch hub on cocked and they had to hold it like that. And I know that when a bike that year and for the life of shovel heads were a lot of problems. I have never had anyone but me work on my Motorcycle’s and I started with a 1947 Indian chief Roadmaster a blue one.
Okay, I'm sure you're correct. I don't carry everything in my head when it's written in books. However, if you look in aftermarket catalogues and find replacement lifter blocks, you will find 12 pt screws with both 24 and 20 tpi. This is so the lifter blocks can be interchanged. The sort of thing I always look for as a matter of habit. Not worth arguing over. But, when working on other people's bikes, you really don't know what you'll find until you're there. I've been subjected to alot of mix and match stuff, and had to figure it out. I remember long nights with every year service manual that could possibly apply just to figure out an oil pump on aftermarket cases with mix and matched parts. I've turned wrenches all my life and, like I said, the learning goes on forever and I still learn from other guys. I'm sure I could learn stuff from you. I learned alot from my '52 80 inch Chief. I learned a lot back in '69, when I built my '58 Sportster. Hopefully, it goes on forever. Today, I'll work on my '77 Shovel, I bought new in '78. Keep enjoying your Shovel. They are grand.
The FSM (FL/FX 1978-1/2 - 1984) on pg. 3-21, Step 4 says to "turn the adjusting screw down slowly until hydraulic lifter is completely compressed. Then turn it up exactly 1-1/2 turns. Lock the adjustment by turning locknut..."
Mike uses a different method here which seems more straightforward. This will be my first time adjusting the valves on my "new" '81 WG. I trust Mike completely but I'm a little nervous not following the FSM. Any advice for a 1st-timer? Thanks Mike, thanks guys!
Well, here's what happened. In 1953, Harley Big Twins got their first hydraulic valve lifters. There was hydraulic pushrods before that. But, that's another conversation. The hydraulic valve lifter introduced for the 1953 Model is the same valve lifter Harley used in their Big Twins all the way through the last Shovelhead (1984). But, they tried to get their explanations down so people could understand them. Different year service manuals explain them differently. But, it's the same lifter. Both methods are correct. Don't ever forget to let them bleed down before rotating the motor.
@@pacificmike9501 Ah thank you Mike...so Harley was revising the instructions along the way...interesting. The FSM method is easy enough to follow but like I said I think your way is more straightforward.
Thanks for the reminder about letting the lifters bleed down. I guess that won't affect me this time since I'll be removing the tappets and blocks, cleaning everything (get a peek at the cam too) and then following the adjustment procedure you show here. Thanks so much for answering my question, and for all the great videos too! -Rich
Thank You. I don't get to own the method. Again, it just depends on which service manual you read. Two methods to get to the same place.
@@pacificmike9501 Ha you made me laugh Mike - at myself mostly. Now I understand - both methods come from Harley they're just found in different-year manuals. I see the light...Thanks again!
You got it.
Mike, I'm replacing only the tube seals and I'm unable to retract the adjusters enough to remove the pushrods. Should I turn the motor over to the high side of the lobe as so to (hopefully) compress the hydraulic lifter and squeeze the oil out of it? Then I should be able to get the pushrod out of the tappet when I turn it over again to the heel of the cam, correct? Am I on the right track ?
Is this a Shovelhead, or an Evolution? The pushrods should collapse far enough on a Shovelhead, Panhead, or Knucklehead. Not so on an Evolution. If it is an Evolution, you'll have to remove the rocker arms, or go in through the camchest. If it is an earlier motor than an Evo, you may have a problem, like valves seated too deep.
Yes, be sure you are on the heel of the cam lobe.
Do you ever use gasket cinch or any other sealers on your paper gaskets?
Sure. Depends on where it is, what the gasket material is, and so on. Different sealants for different applications. You'll probably come up with your own favorites in time. I find something I really like, then change to another type of gasket and the rules change.