Hi Winky, I made me a Drill extension for the Tool Rest, and also the Tap Handle like you made. You wouldn’t believe how much I use those. I think I will try to make one of these next. Everything you make is incredible. I just watched this Video and probably All your Videos for about the 10th or 20th Time. I really like watching how you come up with a answer for a Lot of Machining problems, to make it a Lot easier to get the Job done. You, Mr Pete, Joe Pazinski, probably didn’t spell that right. Old Tony, Blondihacks, Mattys Workshop, all of you guys are Great. There’s many more but, I really appreciate all of y’all. Thanks again Winky 👍
Thanks! This is a big compliment! Did you see the indexing with a gear? I think's a little easier and is able to do most combinations you might need. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
Long ago I needed to do a similar indexing job. I got a large gear about the size of your disc and bolted it to the spindle with a long threaded rod from the front of the spindle to secure it to the rear of the spindle, as you did. I made an indexing block bolted to the rear of the headstock. I could thus index the spindle to make the required spline using a HSS bit on its side. It was a tedious process, 36 teeth on the workpiece and 200 parts to deliver. But it worked. This was when I started my shop in 1961 and no money to buy a mill and indexing head. When the job repeated 11 years later I just hobbed them.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes for sure. In all my years of machining, I must have made or bought so many tools, fixtures, and all that type of stuff. If you only need it once and don't have it, there goes the job. Your creation will serve you in ways you cannot imagine yet and it will be a boon to have it at hand.
Heads up for everyone who intends to use a saw blade to index holes: make sure that the spacing of the teeth is equal all around. Because usually saws, reamers etc. are made with uneven spacing to reduce chatter/harmonics.
Thanks Jaako, that's a good thing to watch for. I have seen a few 60 and 80 tooth with groups of teeth and then a wider space. Never anything that wasn't symmetrical and always fairly obvious but never the less good to watch for.
Excellent, I too used that blade trick, and built index wheels like yours on the lathe carriage feed, from the videos the master, Lyle Peterson. I also made a wheel on the end of my Atlas Lathe lead screw so I could advance the saddle in .001 increments. The Atlas of course has a 60 hole index built in, and I have a mill, so I won't need your idea, but it is an excellent one. Guy Lautard, in his series of three Machinist's Bedside Readers, elaborates upon this idea. I have a spin indexer and have slips at time too. I really need to tear it down, and since I have a project for it, but am waiting on a reamer, I guess tomorrow is the day for that. Joe Pi is right, this field is an amazing one, and your videos show that well.
That is an outstanding idea. I am well aware of Mr. Pete. He is the shop teacher of shop teachers if ever there was one! You are doing a darn good job, too. I can probably use this idea for a number of projects. Thanks for the video.
Winky, I have a Logan Lathe almost identical to yours and I have been thinking in the past how to make it index so I could drill from the tool post at prescribed intervals. Your video was exactly what I needed to see. Thank you.
Hello Kenneth, thanks for the positive comment. If you only need 2 4 6 and 8 hole patterns you might consider using a 24 tooth gear. I plan on making scribe marks on lathe and x y tables dials so I need 100 positions otherwise, 24 would have been perfect. If you make the expanding arbor make sure you get it tight to avoid slipping.
I love prowling around your channel my friend. I watched you cutting the 100 tooth gear indexing on that same wood saw blade on your lathe just recreantly. I still think that is a simply ingenious way to turn a lathe into a gear and ? indexer. I am always impressed with your ability to use or adapt anything at hand to make jigs and fixtures with what you have laying around the shop. You have a very open mind indeed my friend. Even with an oops you found a way to make it work. I love it when you use the word "About" or "There about's" It shows the inventor side of you, LOL. Every time I see the Rapid Tap come out I know you will have a trouble free and smooth cut. It has been my go to for nearly 50 years. I can see you using this jig for a very long time. The great part of metals is they never go bad eh, LOL. Well my friend, I never thought about making this in steel but one add on the locator pin would be to make the locator pin arm from a piece of regular or a thicker piece of banding. Then get that stamping jig to work on the hole count. I have a couple friends I am sending this to. I know they are both going to love this. This is one more super jig from you bud, WELL DONE EH.
Thanks! I sold this lathe but made a new indexer out of a 48 tooth gear for my south bend. It's a little easier to use and 48 gives me what I need most the time. I still have the saw blade but need to rig it up to work on the South Bend lathe
Every time I watch one of your videos, I tell myself that I can do that. I don't have a drill press but could make a milling attachment and an indexing wheel using the lathe as my drill press. I want to make a D1-4 attachment to fit my 2-1/4"x8TPI nose spindle. When it's fitted correctly, I will lock-tight it to the spindle nose and maybe pin it in one spot. Instead of cutting the excess nose threads off I'm going to make it flush with the threaded nose so I will be using a thicker piece of round with a shoulder that is flush with the very back of the spindle, that's where I will thread a hole and use a small screw for extra insurance that nothing will cause it to thread off. My bore is 1-3/8" so a little larger but the same concept. Thank you for sharing, great job.
@@WinkysWorkshop Well I have a lot of the measurements and I asked my brother who is a ASME to get me a copy of the B5.9 spindle noses that has all the nose configurations and drawings. If I can pass anything along to you I will. Making the plunger detents is the easiest part of it. I wanted to try and make the Camlocks but I don't have the machines to do it. I went to a company called MacIt, they sell the camlocks and plunger detents and a very reasonable price. For many hobbyist this is a shot in the arm. They rest is to have a indexing component to drill the holes in the right locations. I bet you could turn it into a series that would be a big hit on TH-cam.
Thanks to you and everyone that take the time to post these great videos with down to earth commentary.and excellent coverage,if anybody has any negative comments I suggest you keep them to your self!!thanks again TW Canada,s west coast.hey joe pie,,,,nice to see you comment....
brilliant ! thank you ! Just found you and subscribed As a 62 y/o newbie I am amazed at the great learning I am getting .From a visual to audible sounds of the lathe to watching some things over and over.Thank you
Great video and a great results for anyone who wants an index wheel on a lathe, who said it couldn't be done at home having fun doing it. I watch quit a few of Mr. Pete's channel, I think if he continues he will develop a great personality and get over being shy. LOL
Nice job ;Y, I also used Mr. Pete's idea (100 tooth saw) to enlarge the dials on my lathe. Lyle is a gem! Guess I'm going to make one of your tool post drills. Thanks again for sharing!
Great Video, I like the way you edit getting right to the point. Not a lot of wasted time. No fast forwarding here. Might miss something. I too have learned a lot from Mr pete222.
Great video and well layed out. I love it when people make their own pieces for a machine so they can do their jobs with it. Thank you for sharing and keep up the great work.
Very Well Done Again ! Ive had a lot of Machinists in my family and Machinist freinds over the years every time i watch one of them work at their trade i learn something new on hoe to calmly solve a problem that comes up just like i saw you doing in the video
Yeah I seen mrpete or "Tubalcain" do this very set up but like you said every Lathe will be set up a bit different using the 100 tooth saw blade - I plan on building the same type of indexing set up for my SB lathe but I cant work in my garage even WITH the wood burner BLAZING away It is just to darn cold here in N.E. Ohio sad to say I'll have to wait till warmer weather Yes you are correct mrpete is a retired Shop teacher and he is a VERY good one at that! I have learned almost everything I know about my SB lathe & Machining work from his videos he makes it look so easy lol and he has the "Gift" to explain things in such a way that is very easy to understand - Thanks for posting your way of doing it as well !!! good video
Very well done Thanks for sharing my next step is indexing and tubalcain is the one who got me into this mess well done all the best from John in Texas
On the one hand, it strikes me as an ingenious practical solution. On the other, I was sad not to see a solution that didn't rely on someone else already having done the hard work of figuring out placements. Ah well... still good stuff!
Very inventive idea using the saw blade. That was really good. I made an indexing sprocket for my South Ben a while back by bolting a 40 tooth sprocket to the back of my 6 inch chuck. I got the idea from Steve Jordan's You Tube video. I also made a tool post drill similar to yours but I put bearings in mine. Keep up the videos. Good work.
Yep... there are many ways to do things, that's for sure. Bearing would be great! I oil the sleeve bearing quite a bit while using mine. I doubt it will ever wear very much. I don;t use it very often an the bushing has a lot of surface area. Thanks for the comment.
You're welcome. If you have a set of change gears you can usually find the right tooth count to get the holes you need. That way you can just build the mandrel for your spindle and come up with some kind of lever to lock into a tooth. Please look around... I'll look for your comments.
No change gears, I have an Atlas Quick Change 54 which is great but the whole indexing thing has been driving me crazy for a long time. I guess I'm not that bright....@@WinkysWorkshop
@@rtkville - That's nice little lathe... cool that it has the quick change. I've used my indexing wheel about 3 times total but I've also used my 100 tooth saw blade more. I use it to make new dials. I think I pointed then out in the indexing wheel video. I sold that lathe and now have one with the quick change gear box. Unfortunately is also has terrible dials. I'll make a video of making the new dials. The original dials on the Logan are terrible!
I appreciate your videos. for indexing wheel I used number 35 roller chain sprocket 60 tooth and a 120 tooth. A few links of anchored 35 chain able to lay in the teeth gets your index. I painted incremental sets of teeth for quick reference. Not tool room accurate but darn close. Thank you so much for your videos!
You are a man after my on heart Sir. I have been trying to catch up on your videos. I have Liked,Shared and added to Playlists. I hope this helps. All my best. Bobby
Thanks for the practical projects. I'll be making the drilling attachment then the indexing wheel. Hope you have a merry Christmas and a healthy, happy New Year.
Thanks you sir. If you don't need so many combinations this video is an easier approach. This indexer covers 2, 3, 4 and 6 which covers most bolt patterns. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
Hey Winky. Neat idea! Just a thought here. When cutting matching inside and outside tapers I bore the inside taper as you did then use a reverse boring bar with lathe running reverse and cut the outside taper from the back side of the work piece. It gives a perfect fit every time. Got to watch your other videos now. Love these shop vids even though I’m pushing seventy and been machining for forty seven years.
Very nice video! I missed the saw blade on tubalcain's build on MrPete222 channel. I have a thick backplate on my Atlas lathe and have drilled holes in it to use for indexing. I will definitely be looking into building the tool post adapter for the drill. Thanks for posting and I'm now a subscriber.
Cool! It can be useful. After making the video I had to tack weld the spoke to the mandrel. You need to do this because it can slip. You could also use a small roll pin and pin the wheel to the mandre if you don't have a welder.
Very nice.Great video.Just subbed on the strength of this. Ive been wanting to build one of these for my atlas craftsman. I really like your drilling fixture as well. Got lots of good ideas from this. time to go turn some hand wheels on my machines. :D Cheers
Thank You Mr. Winky...First time visiting your sight....I was instantly able to relate to your shop setup in that my own lathe is just about in the same position with my water heater as your lathe is, ha. We both do a little bit of anything, wood, metal, plastic whatever is needed. Liked & subscribed and I will slowly catch up on your shows....TM (Calif.)
Thanks! Yep, wood and metal or whatever. Although metal working has sort of taken priority lately. It would be nice if I had a bigger shop so I could keep the oily chips and wood separate but the wood and metal actually compliment each other very well. Thanks, for watching. (KY)
@@WinkysWorkshop A long time ago watching Lyle Peterson making a wooden foundry pattern . mrpete222 exclaimed that "yes I use my machine lathe to do wood-turning for my foundry patterns". It would be wonderful to have a clear division between wood & metal but as you say we all need a larger shop...ha, never large enough!!! I am 46+ years manual machinist and my semi-retirement has me spending LOTS of time in the shop. Always something fun to do. Each day is a new adventure. Thanks again....TM
@@tuffymartinez - Retirement is great, I just wish I had been able to do it 20 years ago. I'm 64 now and don;t have near the energy I used to. I've had a good live but I put off many things until retirement. I'll never complete all my goals in this lifetime! Check out my Wood Lathe Made like a Metal lathe video.
Inteeresting project. Keep in mind that you can use the quill expanding plug you made for another use. If you attach a crank handdle to the end of it you can use it to thread on the lathe by hand which is easier for some to get right.....like me !
Thanks, I agree. It's good for drilling a simple bolt pattern but I would not trust it under high load or to cut gear teeth. I used an earlier version to drill the 4 holes for a face mount electric motor but I used a center drill to locate the holes and enlarged the holes to 3/8 in the drill press.
What counts is the creativity... it is easy to improve but brilliant to come up with a clever idea. I will keep that knowledge preciously for future use...Thank you for sharing.
Winky's Metal Working Tips: I need to think about this.... I've got a 1660 lathe so lots of modifications. I need to rework some motors and change them into 'c' face mount. My other option is Mill and rotary table. Whiz bang to use lathe to cut steps, bearing mount , face groove and drill holes but have to make index. Forever on mill turning the r table , sigh. Options, options options...
Good stuff! That saw blade indexing trick actually goes back way before the internet was born. I remember seeing it in an early eighties article in The Home Shop Machinist magazine. The procedure was similar to yours except the author also wrapped a heavy cord around the spindle and weighted it, pulling it, to insure that the clicker made a positive engagement depth each time on the blade. I'd go dig out that article, but I lost all my HSM"s to a flood.
Cool! The only person I saw do it was Mr. Pete on youtube. I now have another lathe and utilized a gear for indexing. I like it better although I still use the saw for dials. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
Nice Logan--I used to have one just like it, although mine has a QCGB. I think I had an 820, but it was a number of years ago now so I can't recall for certain.
Cool, that's what I have now, an 820 with the QC. Love it. Watch my belt grinder video and you will see it. I also have a video of the restoration although it basically a slide show. I brought the lathe back from the grave. Thanks for watching!
This is a very elegant solution to indexing on the lathe spindle. The collection of gear wheels you have on the wall should give a great selection of indexing options in addition to the 100 tooth saw blade. I am thinking about using my collection of gear wheels on an internal arbor using your design. You could even make your own gear wheels with any number of teeth using a tap. I love this method which I used to make a worm gear drive in the video below. You could even use a complete worm gear to drive the indexing gear and put a calibrated dial on the worm using your method. This would give ridiculously fine divisions eg with a 100 tooth gear and a worm with a dial with 100 markings could theoretically provide 100 x 100 = 10,000 divisions! Or use a 60 tooth gear wheel, which has 12 degrees per tooth, and use a calibrated dial on the worm with 12 markings for degrees, or 120 markings for 0.1 degrees. But then I am getting away from simple elegance solving practical problems. The following video shows the "thread cutting tap method" of making a gear wheel. It makes a gear with a concave profile but to make a normal straight gear you could raise and lower the blank while cutting it. The little worm drive gearbox starts at 3 min 20 sec into this video: th-cam.com/video/Jpzz6nngzLk/w-d-xo.html
I've used the indexing wheel a few time although I think a better solution would be to make mandrel with a stud that locks in the outboard spindle. Then make several disks easy to read disks. You could have a disk with 12 notches that would allow for 2, 3, 4, 6, and 12 positions. Counting hole on the one in this video is a pain. Of course you could make disks with a specific numbers for specific purposes as well but the 12 notch disk is what i would use most.
You can get a lot of good work done with a 110 MIG welder. But I will never go back now I didn't go all out and get myself a Miller or anything like that but I did get the Hobart professional line and I hooked it up to 220 and man what a difference. Most of the time I have to dial back the power cuz I'm giving it too much. I have yet to run out of power on this thing and it's absolutely beautiful
Hey Winky. Good job, as always. If you wanted 360 holes for 1 degree increments, couldn’t you stagger the holes going back? Like 0 would be up front. 1 degree would be in a row back by 2 hole diameters. 3 would be back 4 hole diameters and 4 would be back 6 hole diameters. Then 5 would be up front again with the 0. Then you have 4 registration pins that are laterally displaced by 2 hole diameters. I’m not sure what your hole diameters are, but if they are 0.125”, then your wheel would be about 1.25” wide from front to back. This would give you a lot of combinations, with angles divisible by 5 on the first row. Angles divisible by 6 on the second row. Angles divisible by 7 on the third row and angles divisible by 9 on the fourth row (I think. Doing this in my head). Your jig for drilling horizontal holes is cool but needs improvement. You could use an adjustable jawed chuck for axial holes. Just decenter the piece so the hole is centered on the spindle. Or, leave as is and use your hand drill technique with a decentered jig. I need to draw it up. Do you have a website I can visit and communicate off line? My Chinese mill table is now running smoothly. But I need a way to align it to the chuck. I’m thinking of a dc treadmill motor with variable speed. I’d like to slow the drill press down and pulse it forward and backward for tapping. Do you know how to do this? Thanks, Paul
Thats a lot to comment on. First, I only needed 3 and 4 and 100 holes so simple is good for me. I don't really need to decenter anything. My mill goes slow enough but it would be nice to instant reverse. 3 ph with a VFD? This is not really my area of knowledge.
Suggestion... be careful about slippage. When I messed up the 100 holes it was due to the saw slipping a little. It's also a good idea to pin or tack weld the spoke to your expanding arbor. The arbor itself holds very well but where the wheel bolts to the arbor is a problem area.
Great job and nice to watch too. Brilliant idea to use the saw blade ..and especially the gear cog, which you know will be finely accurate. I like the simple ratchet stop too. The best ideas are always the simplest, well done. I couldn't help noticing that whenever you started a new drilling job, the nose of the drill bit rose up a touch. That'll kill any fine precision you're after, I think.. worn drill chuck?
I watched closely I didn't see the movement although I'll admit that accuracy is nothing like what you would obtain on a mill with an indexing head. It depends on what you plan to use this for. If you were talking about drilling with the tailstock, my tail stock is in bad shape. If I tighten the lock down it remains true but drops a bit when the lockdown is loose.
Excellent - Note for UR dials, to make them much easier for tired old eyes to read, fill them with “white paint”. I mix either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide (Ebay) powder into a bit of clear epoxy resin. Adjust the powder content to make a paste and fill and squegee off. Once cured U can touch up any residue with an abrasive eg steel wool etc. I’ve also used powder coat resin to fill the epoxy for custom colors - a bit overkill perhaps!
Winky's Metal Working Tips : Note: U could use various black powders to fill the epoxy. Harbor freight sells small quantities of powder paint in BLK, RED, WHT, and YEL. Carbon BLK (Amazon) is ideal and Manganese dioxide (alkaline batteries) is a black pigment which was used in antiquity. Degrease UR object first with MEK or brake cleaner. Make a squege from a plastic bottle.
Note: U could use various black powders to fill the epoxy. Harbor freight sells small quantities of powder paint in BLK, RED, WHT, and YEL. Carbon BLK (Amazon) is ideal and Manganese dioxide (alkaline batteries) is a black pigment which was used in antiquity. Degrease UR object first with MEK or brake cleaner. Make a squege from a plastic bottle.
If you turn a plywood or mdf disk you can wrap the circumference with mass produced [i.e.accurate] punched, perforated strip. Then index the holes in the rim with a tangential rod and pin. Roofers use inexpensive perforated steel strip to stiffen their structures in several sizes and pitches. The large radius/diameter of your index wheel ensures accuracy because the work being indexed is usually very much smaller. Ideal for odd tooth counts when cutting a gear or gashing a wormwheel prior to hobbing.
Thanks, after I made the video I discovered that the wheel sometimes slips. The spoke need to be welded or pinned to the madral. Just one spot weld is plenty... or a pin if you don;t have a welder.
With regards to your internal / external taper. If after cutting your internal one, you had left the compound slide where it was, run your lathe in reverse and with the same boring tool or another tool to cut on the backside, or keep the lathe running forward but have the tool upside down, your tapers would match exactly, without any trial and error fitting. Watch out too about standing pots of lubricant on your belt cover, it may not only slide off due to vibration, but it may also leave a stain ring on your paintwork. Final thought, I did not see it, but I am assuming that the drum is not permanently affixed to your mandrel ? just relying on friction between the 2 when you tighten the bolt. You have a fantastic friction fit with the mandrel in your lathe spindle ( hence you having to tap on the bolt to release it ) the clamping friction between the wheel and mandrel end is much lower. How about adding a mechanical one, i.e a key or a couple of small tack welds ? Great job and thanks for the shout out about Mr Pete.
I'll have to watch the video and refresh my memory on the tapers however running my lathe in reverses is not a good option, it has a screw on chuck. Good advice on the attachment of the expanding nut to the spoke of the wheel. I tack welded with my mig and it now works perfect. I wish I could modify this video as slippage in this area can be a problem. Thanks for the valuable comment.
If I could be so bold as to make a suggestion and that would be to go to a smaller wire diameter on your 110 welder. Sounded to me as if you had the wire speed turned so far down that it was barely coming out of the gun? This tells me (after peaking at your welds) that you have to large a wire diameter in the welder. If you want hotter welds and better penetration in a 110 wire feeder then you should go to a .023”-024” that been my experience. Did not want to tell you how you should do your job.
Excellent observation. When I made this video the welder was only a month old. During that month I bought gas, a regulator and some .030 wire for use with gas. I've had stick welders in the past but MIG is new to me. After playing around with the welder a bit more I figured smaller wire would be much better and after changing to .024 it definitely was better. I wish they made a .020. I think it would be even better. You know the flux core wire did a little better than the gas although there was more slag. Bottom line, a 110v mig doesn't have enough power for much over 1/8-inch. I've actually welded a lot of 1/4" but it's pretty much on the surface and i would not trust the welds for anything very heavy.
I love that saw blade idea but I'd be a little concerned about the precision of the ratcheting system. Well, not so much a ratcheting system as a ratcheting piece. It's an absolutely ingenious idea, I love when you can use your imagination to adapt one device for another purpose. It's a huge time saver when making machines. I just hope that anyone watching this who is a beginner or novice understands that when you need precision in 1 to 5 thousandths of an inch, that this is probably not going to be reliable. It might be if you make a ratcheting system with basically zero flex. The sheet metal probably does OK but that thin sheet of stainless is a bit concerning. I may even adapt this idea for my own indexer so that I don't have to do the initial precise measurements. Again, a huge time saver. Thank you for the video.
I'm sure their is some error although I'm not sure the ratchet on the saw blade is a significant source. It's amazingly rigid when you reverse into the tooth gullet I'd say there is error in multiple areas. The sleeve bushing in the drill and the arm the tool post are both areas that might move some. I've used it to make dials and drill bolt patterns (3 and 4 bolt) and never had a problem with the bolts lining up. I'm guessing that would be within .003 or .004.. But I agree, I would never use it to cut a gear. Hopefully anyone advanced enough to cut a gear understands the limitations. Thanks for the comment, always good to hear concerns, and compliments of course!
The steel bar works like a tapering attachment. I clamp a profile to the bar and a bearing mounted to a modified cover on my cross slide follows the contour. I disengaging the feed screw on the cross slide and attach the spring which hold the bearing against the profile. The spring is attached to the cross slide. The wood arm is just to hold the other end of the spring.
Great video and very motivating . I need to make some dails for my son's lathe once i installed a new cross slide leadscrew and nut . I saw something else on some of your videos and that is your cutting oil system . It seems to have air in the system as well while delivering the fluid to the work piece being machined . Is that to enhance the cooling of the tool and work piece whilst it is getting some lubrication? I make a lot of bushes to refurbish turbocharger waste gates so i do a lot of drilling in the lathe . I want to install a cutting fluid system so i thought i'd ask you about yours . I like your videos and it is awesome to see somone enjoying what he does .
The fluid being sprayed is a water based coolant called Kool Mist #77. You buy it by the gallon and dilute it 10 to 1. It's mostly air being sprayed so it is very economical. It works just as well as flood lubrication except that you don't have to recover the coolant. Although flood moved chip out of the way a little better. The sprayer I have is OriGlam Mist Coolant Lubrication Spray System but there are many out there. Just get one with both fluid and air valves. Glad you liked the videos, thanks for watching.
I'm sure you could. I also have another video using a gear to index from. It has less combinations but for most things it is totally adequate. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
ery good video, well explained. I also learned this from mypete222 (Tubalcane) another really good chinned is Keith Rucker at vintage machinery. Keep up the good videos
Thanks and I totally agree about the fine thread. I find that I have to get the expansion nut fairly tight to avoid slippage and the fine thread would help.
I admire anyone that can get a job done with the tools they have on hand. I too enjoy the creativity of this trade. Happy New Year to you.
Thanks!
This is the best lathe demonstration I've ever seen for me personally. Brilliant information 👌
Wow... thanks!
Hi Winky, I made me a Drill extension for the Tool Rest, and also the Tap Handle like you made. You wouldn’t believe how much I use those. I think I will try to make one of these next. Everything you make is incredible. I just watched this Video and probably All your Videos for about the 10th or 20th Time. I really like watching how you come up with a answer for a Lot of Machining problems, to make it a Lot easier to get the Job done. You, Mr Pete, Joe Pazinski, probably didn’t spell that right. Old Tony, Blondihacks, Mattys Workshop, all of you guys are Great. There’s many more but, I really appreciate all of y’all. Thanks again Winky 👍
Thanks! This is a big compliment! Did you see the indexing with a gear? I think's a little easier and is able to do most combinations you might need. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
Long ago I needed to do a similar indexing job. I got a large gear about the size of your disc and bolted it to the spindle with a long threaded rod from the front of the spindle to secure it to the rear of the spindle, as you did. I made an indexing block bolted to the rear of the headstock. I could thus index the spindle to make the required spline using a HSS bit on its side. It was a tedious process, 36 teeth on the workpiece and 200 parts to deliver. But it worked. This was when I started my shop in 1961 and no money to buy a mill and indexing head. When the job repeated 11 years later I just hobbed them.
Cool story! Thanks for sharing. I don't use the indexing wheel very often but it's nice to have.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes for sure. In all my years of machining, I must have made or bought so many tools, fixtures, and all that type of stuff. If you only need it once and don't have it, there goes the job.
Your creation will serve you in ways you cannot imagine yet and it will be a boon to have it at hand.
I'm a big fan of Mr. Pete, so I'm glad you gave him a shout-out. However, you've added your own innovation to his ideas here, so I say, "Bravo!"
Thanks Rick! I see you also liked a video of my Aussie Wimshurst Machine.
Yes--I had never heard of them before. Yours is a work of art AND science.
Thanks, they are great fun to make!
Heads up for everyone who intends to use a saw blade to index holes: make sure that the spacing of the teeth is equal all around. Because usually saws, reamers etc. are made with uneven spacing to reduce chatter/harmonics.
Thanks Jaako, that's a good thing to watch for. I have seen a few 60 and 80 tooth with groups of teeth and then a wider space. Never anything that wasn't symmetrical and always fairly obvious but never the less good to watch for.
Excellent, I too used that blade trick, and built index wheels like yours on the lathe carriage feed, from the videos the master, Lyle Peterson. I also made a wheel on the end of my Atlas Lathe lead screw so I could advance the saddle in .001 increments. The Atlas of course has a 60 hole index built in, and I have a mill, so I won't need your idea, but it is an excellent one. Guy Lautard, in his series of three Machinist's Bedside Readers, elaborates upon this idea. I have a spin indexer and have slips at time too. I really need to tear it down, and since I have a project for it, but am waiting on a reamer, I guess tomorrow is the day for that. Joe Pi is right, this field is an amazing one, and your videos show that well.
Love Joe Pi... Yes I love doing machine work, Thanks so much for the positive comment!
That is an outstanding idea. I am well aware of Mr. Pete. He is the shop teacher of shop teachers if ever there was one! You are doing a darn good job, too. I can probably use this idea for a number of projects. Thanks for the video.
Wow, thanks! Mr. Pete is great.
Great build video. Kudos to both Tublicain and yourself, love both your channels.
Thanks for sharing.
To be grouped with Tubalcain is huge complement. I met him last year, what a great guy!
Winky,
I have a Logan Lathe almost identical to yours and I have been thinking in the past how to make it index so I could drill from the tool post at prescribed intervals. Your video was exactly what I needed to see. Thank you.
Hello Kenneth, thanks for the positive comment. If you only need 2 4 6 and 8 hole patterns you might consider using a 24 tooth gear. I plan on making scribe marks on lathe and x y tables dials so I need 100 positions otherwise, 24 would have been perfect. If you make the expanding arbor make sure you get it tight to avoid slipping.
Xnudu has the best indexing system I have seen. Thanks for your video.
I love prowling around your channel my friend. I watched you cutting the 100 tooth gear indexing on that same wood saw blade on your lathe just recreantly. I still think that is a simply ingenious way to turn a lathe into a gear and ? indexer. I am always impressed with your ability to use or adapt anything at hand to make jigs and fixtures with what you have laying around the shop. You have a very open mind indeed my friend. Even with an oops you found a way to make it work. I love it when you use the word "About" or "There about's" It shows the inventor side of you, LOL. Every time I see the Rapid Tap come out I know you will have a trouble free and smooth cut. It has been my go to for nearly 50 years. I can see you using this jig for a very long time. The great part of metals is they never go bad eh, LOL. Well my friend, I never thought about making this in steel but one add on the locator pin would be to make the locator pin arm from a piece of regular or a thicker piece of banding. Then get that stamping jig to work on the hole count. I have a couple friends I am sending this to. I know they are both going to love this. This is one more super jig from you bud, WELL DONE EH.
Thanks! I sold this lathe but made a new indexer out of a 48 tooth gear for my south bend. It's a little easier to use and 48 gives me what I need most the time. I still have the saw blade but need to rig it up to work on the South Bend lathe
@@WinkysWorkshop I am sure you already have it figured out.
Mr Wink you are one smart machinist and craftsman. Very inspiring as well. Thank you .
Well thank you sir!
Every time I watch one of your videos, I tell myself that I can do that. I don't have a drill press but could make a milling attachment and an indexing wheel using the lathe as my drill press. I want to make a D1-4 attachment to fit my 2-1/4"x8TPI nose spindle. When it's fitted correctly, I will lock-tight it to the spindle nose and maybe pin it in one spot. Instead of cutting the excess nose threads off I'm going to make it flush with the threaded nose so I will be using a thicker piece of round with a shoulder that is flush with the very back of the spindle, that's where I will thread a hole and use a small screw for extra insurance that nothing will cause it to thread off. My bore is 1-3/8" so a little larger but the same concept. Thank you for sharing, great job.
That's a good idea! I never thought about making an adapter. It would be nice to be able to turn in reverse sometimes.
@@WinkysWorkshop Well I have a lot of the measurements and I asked my brother who is a ASME to get me a copy of the B5.9 spindle noses that has all the nose configurations and drawings. If I can pass anything along to you I will. Making the plunger detents is the easiest part of it. I wanted to try and make the Camlocks but I don't have the machines to do it. I went to a company called MacIt, they sell the camlocks and plunger detents and a very reasonable price. For many hobbyist this is a shot in the arm. They rest is to have a indexing component to drill the holes in the right locations. I bet you could turn it into a series that would be a big hit on TH-cam.
Thanks to you and everyone that take the time to post these great videos with down to earth commentary.and excellent coverage,if anybody has any negative comments I suggest you keep them to your self!!thanks again TW Canada,s west coast.hey joe pie,,,,nice to see you comment....
brilliant ! thank you ! Just found you and subscribed As a 62 y/o newbie I am amazed at the great learning I am getting .From a visual to audible sounds of the lathe to watching some things over and over.Thank you
Thanks for your comment, you're the same age as me.
Im not as handsome and have 50 more lbs than you ! Not to mention lack of hair !
What a great way to spend a sunday morning having coffee & learning something. Thanks...your tool post drill caught my eye now! 👍
Great video and a great results for anyone who wants an index wheel on a lathe, who said it couldn't be done at home having fun doing it. I watch quit a few of Mr. Pete's channel, I think if he continues he will develop a great personality and get over being shy. LOL
Thanks you Pete. Mr. Pete has been at it a long time... lots of good videos too. Fun is what it's all about... gotta have fun.
Nice job ;Y, I also used Mr. Pete's idea (100 tooth saw) to enlarge the dials on my lathe. Lyle is a gem! Guess I'm going to make one of your tool post drills. Thanks again for sharing!
Saw blade was a really cool idea. Never thought to do that. Your videos are very informative. Thanks.
Thanks, however I borrowed the saw blade idea from Mr. Pete.
Great Video, I like the way you edit getting right to the point. Not a lot of wasted time. No fast forwarding here. Might miss something. I too have learned a lot from Mr pete222.
Great video and well layed out. I love it when people make their own pieces for a machine so they can do their jobs with it. Thank you for sharing and keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching!
Very Well Done Again ! Ive had a lot of Machinists in my family and Machinist freinds over the years every time i watch one of them work at their trade i learn something new on hoe to calmly solve a problem that comes up just like i saw you doing in the video
Thanks! And thanks for watching
Yeah I seen mrpete or "Tubalcain" do this very set up but like you said every Lathe will be set up a bit different using the 100 tooth saw blade - I plan on building the same type of indexing set up for my SB lathe but I cant work in my garage even WITH the wood burner BLAZING away It is just to darn cold here in N.E. Ohio sad to say I'll have to wait till warmer weather Yes you are correct mrpete is a retired Shop teacher and he is a VERY good one at that! I have learned almost everything I know about my SB lathe & Machining work from his videos he makes it look so easy lol and he has the "Gift" to explain things in such a way that is very easy to understand - Thanks for posting your way of doing it as well !!! good video
Very well done Thanks for sharing my next step is indexing and tubalcain is the one who got me into this mess well done all the best from John in Texas
Great idea ! Never thought about using gears and saw that are already indexed . Thanks for the information
On the one hand, it strikes me as an ingenious practical solution. On the other, I was sad not to see a solution that didn't rely on someone else already having done the hard work of figuring out placements. Ah well... still good stuff!
Very inventive idea using the saw blade. That was really good. I made an indexing sprocket for my South Ben a while back by bolting a 40 tooth sprocket to the back of my 6 inch chuck. I got the idea from Steve Jordan's You Tube video. I also made a tool post drill similar to yours but I put bearings in mine. Keep up the videos. Good work.
Yep... there are many ways to do things, that's for sure. Bearing would be great! I oil the sleeve bearing quite a bit while using mine. I doubt it will ever wear very much. I don;t use it very often an the bushing has a lot of surface area. Thanks for the comment.
Just discovered your site after searching "indexing on a metal lathe". I like! Thanks.
You're welcome. If you have a set of change gears you can usually find the right tooth count to get the holes you need. That way you can just build the mandrel for your spindle and come up with some kind of lever to lock into a tooth. Please look around... I'll look for your comments.
No change gears, I have an Atlas Quick Change 54 which is great but the whole indexing thing has been driving me crazy for a long time. I guess I'm not that bright....@@WinkysWorkshop
@@rtkville - That's nice little lathe... cool that it has the quick change. I've used my indexing wheel about 3 times total but I've also used my 100 tooth saw blade more. I use it to make new dials. I think I pointed then out in the indexing wheel video. I sold that lathe and now have one with the quick change gear box. Unfortunately is also has terrible dials. I'll make a video of making the new dials. The original dials on the Logan are terrible!
sound good!@@markswoodworkingtips2350
This entire project of yours was very well put together!
I appreciate your videos. for indexing wheel I used number 35 roller chain sprocket 60 tooth and a 120 tooth. A few links of anchored 35 chain able to lay in the teeth gets your index. I painted incremental sets of teeth for quick reference. Not tool room accurate but darn close. Thank you so much for your videos!
You are welcome. The chain and sprockets are a darn good method and just as accurate as the method I used I'm sure.
Great video,Mark.You are methodical and consistent.I keep an eye on your buddy mrpete too.Thank you.
Thanks
You are a man after my on heart Sir. I have been trying to catch up on your videos. I have Liked,Shared and added to Playlists. I hope this helps.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks for the practical projects. I'll be making the drilling attachment then the indexing wheel. Hope you have a merry Christmas and a healthy, happy New Year.
You are welcome. Yes I think it is practical for many things, I might not trust it to cut a gear but that's not the sort of thing I'm into.
Nice idea and project. I have been wanting an index for my old lathe. I think I am gonna use your idea. Thanks
great job,Mr Pete is the man. i have 3 old craftsman lathes i am working on and learning how to use them .
What a great teacher you are, thank you for sharing.
Thanks you sir. If you don't need so many combinations this video is an easier approach. This indexer covers 2, 3, 4 and 6 which covers most bolt patterns. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
I like this elegant lathe...and the way he does the job..
Hey Winky. Neat idea! Just a thought here. When cutting matching inside and outside tapers I bore the inside taper as you did then use a reverse boring bar with lathe running reverse and cut the outside taper from the back side of the work piece. It gives a perfect fit every time. Got to watch your other videos now. Love these shop vids even though I’m pushing seventy and been machining for forty seven years.
That's a great idea although my chuck mount is screw on and the chuck unscrews. Thanks for watching.
Pretty awsome! I spend hours watching mr pete, good work
He is a good one. He also helped me a lot.
I like that...very nice. Great idea and design. -T Kudos to Mr. Pete.
Thanks and I agree
Ingenious. I've watched a couple of your videos, you've earned a subscriber.
Very nice video! I missed the saw blade on tubalcain's build on MrPete222 channel. I have a thick backplate on my Atlas lathe and have drilled holes in it to use for indexing. I will definitely be looking into building the tool post adapter for the drill. Thanks for posting and I'm now a subscriber.
Tomorrow I going to make me on of those.You are very creative and thanks for polishing.
de Mike....
Cool! It can be useful. After making the video I had to tack weld the spoke to the mandrel. You need to do this because it can slip. You could also use a small roll pin and pin the wheel to the mandre if you don't have a welder.
Very nice.Great video.Just subbed on the strength of this. Ive been wanting to build one of these for my atlas craftsman. I really like your drilling fixture as well. Got lots of good ideas from this. time to go turn some hand wheels on my machines. :D Cheers
Excellent. Thank you very much. Also, congratulations, your shop is amazingly clean and ordered.
Great video, I’m a total beginner and that would be a great project.
Cool... Hey, if you make the indexing wheel tack weld or pin the spoke to the hub. I had it slip on me
I like it. I made a 72 hole index wheel for my new Nova lathe and I use it a lot. Nice work, thanks for sharing...Jim
Nice video! I never thought of using a saw blade as an index wheel. Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Excellent practical value, and just plain Brilliant sir!
Wow... thanks!
I like your cut off tool leg, I fact the whole vid was interesting. I was pleased you put that claw hammer down and picked up a ball pein later on 🙂
Thank You Mr. Winky...First time visiting your sight....I was instantly able to relate to your shop setup in that my own lathe is just about in the same position with my water heater as your lathe is, ha. We both do a little bit of anything, wood, metal, plastic whatever is needed. Liked & subscribed and I will slowly catch up on your shows....TM (Calif.)
Thanks! Yep, wood and metal or whatever. Although metal working has sort of taken priority lately. It would be nice if I had a bigger shop so I could keep the oily chips and wood separate but the wood and metal actually compliment each other very well. Thanks, for watching. (KY)
@@WinkysWorkshop A long time ago watching Lyle Peterson making a wooden foundry pattern . mrpete222 exclaimed that "yes I use my machine lathe to do wood-turning for my foundry patterns". It would be wonderful to have a clear division between wood & metal but as you say we all need a larger shop...ha, never large enough!!! I am 46+ years manual machinist and my semi-retirement has me spending LOTS of time in the shop. Always something fun to do. Each day is a new adventure. Thanks again....TM
@@tuffymartinez - Retirement is great, I just wish I had been able to do it 20 years ago. I'm 64 now and don;t have near the energy I used to. I've had a good live but I put off many things until retirement. I'll never complete all my goals in this lifetime! Check out my Wood Lathe Made like a Metal lathe video.
práctico y sencillo...muy buen trabajo! me suscribo y a ver el resto de los videos
Inteeresting project. Keep in mind that you can use the quill expanding plug you made for another use. If you attach a crank handdle to the end of it you can use it to thread on the lathe by hand which is easier for some to get right.....like me !
Now that's a good idea! Thanks.
That was a great idea very intelligent and an awesome video you've got one new subscribers thank you
This is so clever and simple, I love it... the tools could be improved but your idea is brilliant.
Thanks, I agree. It's good for drilling a simple bolt pattern but I would not trust it under high load or to cut gear teeth. I used an earlier version to drill the 4 holes for a face mount electric motor but I used a center drill to locate the holes and enlarged the holes to 3/8 in the drill press.
What counts is the creativity... it is easy to improve but brilliant to come up with a clever idea. I will keep that knowledge preciously for future use...Thank you for sharing.
Winky's Metal Working Tips: I need to think about this.... I've got a 1660 lathe so lots of modifications. I need to rework some motors and change them into 'c' face mount. My other option is Mill and rotary table. Whiz bang to use lathe to cut steps, bearing mount , face groove and drill holes but have to make index. Forever on mill turning the r table , sigh. Options, options options...
Good stuff! That saw blade indexing trick actually goes back way before the internet was born. I remember seeing it in an early eighties article in The Home Shop Machinist magazine. The procedure was similar to yours except the author also wrapped a heavy cord around the spindle and weighted it, pulling it, to insure that the clicker made a positive engagement depth each time on the blade. I'd go dig out that article, but I lost all my HSM"s to a flood.
Cool! The only person I saw do it was Mr. Pete on youtube. I now have another lathe and utilized a gear for indexing. I like it better although I still use the saw for dials. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
Nice Logan--I used to have one just like it, although mine has a QCGB. I think I had an 820, but it was a number of years ago now so I can't recall for certain.
Cool, that's what I have now, an 820 with the QC. Love it. Watch my belt grinder video and you will see it. I also have a video of the restoration although it basically a slide show. I brought the lathe back from the grave. Thanks for watching!
Very cool video! Some really clever ideas in this video.
nice!!!,Pete 222 is a vary good teacher!
I agree
Great video with great ideas. Agree about Tubalcain, AKA Mr. Pete. I've learned a lot from him.
Yeah.. he is a great shop teacher
A cool project. I need to do this for my mini. Thanks for the video!
Very Nice Mark, enjoy your videos.
Thanks Ray
Great idea! Nice video and thanks for sharing and adding to my project list.
That looks like a project for me also.
That’s a great idea using the saw blade. Enjoyed!
Very cool, way to get it done with what you have!!
This is a very elegant solution to indexing on the lathe spindle. The collection of gear wheels you have on the wall should give a great selection of indexing options in addition to the 100 tooth saw blade. I am thinking about using my collection of gear wheels on an internal arbor using your design.
You could even make your own gear wheels with any number of teeth using a tap. I love this method which I used to make a worm gear drive in the video below. You could even use a complete worm gear to drive the indexing gear and put a calibrated dial on the worm using your method. This would give ridiculously fine divisions eg with a 100 tooth gear and a worm with a dial with 100 markings could theoretically provide 100 x 100 = 10,000 divisions! Or use a 60 tooth gear wheel, which has 12 degrees per tooth, and use a calibrated dial on the worm with 12 markings for degrees, or 120 markings for 0.1 degrees. But then I am getting away from simple elegance solving practical problems.
The following video shows the "thread cutting tap method" of making a gear wheel. It makes a gear with a concave profile but to make a normal straight gear you could raise and lower the blank while cutting it.
The little worm drive gearbox starts at 3 min 20 sec into this video:
th-cam.com/video/Jpzz6nngzLk/w-d-xo.html
I've used the indexing wheel a few time although I think a better solution would be to make mandrel with a stud that locks in the outboard spindle. Then make several disks easy to read disks. You could have a disk with 12 notches that would allow for 2, 3, 4, 6, and 12 positions. Counting hole on the one in this video is a pain. Of course you could make disks with a specific numbers for specific purposes as well but the 12 notch disk is what i would use most.
many thanks mr winky. very practical and well presented too could you show us your belt grinder build?
Thanks, I've had a lot of requests for a video on the belt grinder. I plan on doing one as soon as I find a suitable motor.
I love to watch applied genius. Thanks for sharing. (The good ones make it look simple)
Thank you so much for the compliment!
Perfect tutorial for the Christmas weekend. I need to go find me a saw blade. Thanks for sharing. Joel.....
Great video really informative and very ingenious. Well done!
Your voice actually has a Tubalcain sound to it. Nice idea and layout. Makes me do some thinking now...
You can get a lot of good work done with a 110 MIG welder. But I will never go back now I didn't go all out and get myself a Miller or anything like that but I did get the Hobart professional line and I hooked it up to 220 and man what a difference. Most of the time I have to dial back the power cuz I'm giving it too much. I have yet to run out of power on this thing and it's absolutely beautiful
I agree 100% ! This little welder is better than nothing BUT a 220 welder would be way better.
Winky's Metal Working Tips don't get me wrong I did a lot of good welds with mt century
Hey Winky. Good job, as always.
If you wanted 360 holes for 1 degree increments, couldn’t you stagger the holes going back? Like 0 would be up front. 1 degree would be in a row back by 2 hole diameters. 3 would be back 4 hole diameters and 4 would be back 6 hole diameters. Then 5 would be up front again with the 0.
Then you have 4 registration pins that are laterally displaced by 2 hole diameters. I’m not sure what your hole diameters are, but if they are 0.125”, then your wheel would be about 1.25” wide from front to back. This would give you a lot of combinations, with angles divisible by 5 on the first row. Angles divisible by 6 on the second row. Angles divisible by 7 on the third row and angles divisible by 9 on the fourth row (I think. Doing this in my head).
Your jig for drilling horizontal holes is cool but needs improvement. You could use an adjustable jawed chuck for axial holes. Just decenter the piece so the hole is centered on the spindle. Or, leave as is and use your hand drill technique with a decentered jig.
I need to draw it up. Do you have a website I can visit and communicate off line?
My Chinese mill table is now running smoothly. But I need a way to align it to the chuck.
I’m thinking of a dc treadmill motor with variable speed. I’d like to slow the drill press down and pulse it forward and backward for tapping.
Do you know how to do this?
Thanks,
Paul
Thats a lot to comment on. First, I only needed 3 and 4 and 100 holes so simple is good for me. I don't really need to decenter anything. My mill goes slow enough but it would be nice to instant reverse. 3 ph with a VFD? This is not really
my area of knowledge.
This is really clever - nice work!
Im making one now. Thanks for the awesom info.
Suggestion... be careful about slippage. When I messed up the 100 holes it was due to the saw slipping a little. It's also a good idea to pin or tack weld the spoke to your expanding arbor. The arbor itself holds very well but where the wheel bolts to the arbor is a problem area.
Just a great informative video! Thanks for the idea !
Glad it was helpful!
Great job and nice to watch too. Brilliant idea to use the saw blade ..and especially the gear cog, which you know will be finely accurate. I like the simple ratchet stop too.
The best ideas are always the simplest, well done.
I couldn't help noticing that whenever you started a new drilling job, the nose of the drill bit rose up a touch.
That'll kill any fine precision you're after, I think.. worn drill chuck?
I watched closely I didn't see the movement although I'll admit that accuracy is nothing like what you would obtain on a mill with an indexing head. It depends on what you plan to use this for. If you were talking about drilling with the tailstock, my tail stock is in bad shape. If I tighten the lock down it remains true but drops a bit when the lockdown is loose.
Excellent - Note for UR dials, to make them much easier for tired old eyes to read, fill them with “white paint”. I mix either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide (Ebay) powder into a bit of clear epoxy resin. Adjust the powder content to make a paste and fill and squegee off. Once cured U can touch up any residue with an abrasive eg steel wool etc. I’ve also used powder coat resin to fill the epoxy for custom colors - a bit overkill perhaps!
Good idea. I've used black pain but it doesn't stay put. I'll have to try your method. Thanks!
Winky's Metal Working Tips : Note: U could use various black powders to fill the epoxy. Harbor freight sells small quantities of powder paint in BLK, RED, WHT, and YEL. Carbon BLK (Amazon) is ideal and Manganese dioxide (alkaline batteries) is a black pigment which was used in antiquity. Degrease UR object first with MEK or brake cleaner. Make a squege from a plastic bottle.
@@jerryquigg3497 Thanks for the info, I will give this try in the near future.
Note: U could use various black powders to fill the epoxy. Harbor freight sells small quantities of powder paint in BLK, RED, WHT, and YEL. Carbon BLK (Amazon) is ideal and Manganese dioxide (alkaline batteries) is a black pigment which was used in antiquity. Degrease UR object first with MEK or brake cleaner. Make a squege from a plastic bottle.
Very well done. Thanks for the video.
If you turn a plywood or mdf disk you can wrap the circumference with mass produced [i.e.accurate] punched, perforated strip.
Then index the holes in the rim with a tangential rod and pin. Roofers use inexpensive perforated steel strip to stiffen their structures in several sizes and pitches. The large radius/diameter of your index wheel ensures accuracy because the work being indexed is usually very much smaller. Ideal for odd tooth counts when cutting a gear or gashing a wormwheel prior to hobbing.
Nice video...Greetings from Brazil
That is great. i will try make me one of them. Thanks for showing us how its done.
Thanks, after I made the video I discovered that the wheel sometimes slips. The spoke need to be welded or pinned to the madral. Just one spot weld is plenty... or a pin if you don;t have a welder.
With regards to your internal / external taper. If after cutting your internal one, you had left the compound slide where it was, run your lathe in reverse and with the same boring tool or another tool to cut on the backside, or keep the lathe running forward but have the tool upside down, your tapers would match exactly, without any trial and error fitting. Watch out too about standing pots of lubricant on your belt cover, it may not only slide off due to vibration, but it may also leave a stain ring on your paintwork. Final thought, I did not see it, but I am assuming that the drum is not permanently affixed to your mandrel ? just relying on friction between the 2 when you tighten the bolt. You have a fantastic friction fit with the mandrel in your lathe spindle ( hence you having to tap on the bolt to release it ) the clamping friction between the wheel and mandrel end is much lower. How about adding a mechanical one, i.e a key or a couple of small tack welds ? Great job and thanks for the shout out about Mr Pete.
I'll have to watch the video and refresh my memory on the tapers however running my lathe in reverses is not a good option, it has a screw on chuck. Good advice on the attachment of the expanding nut to the spoke of the wheel. I tack welded with my mig and it now works perfect. I wish I could modify this video as slippage in this area can be a problem. Thanks for the valuable comment.
If I could be so bold as to make a suggestion and that would be to go to a smaller wire diameter on your 110 welder. Sounded to me as if you had the wire speed turned so far down that it was barely coming out of the gun? This tells me (after peaking at your welds) that you have to large a wire diameter in the welder. If you want hotter welds and better penetration in a 110 wire feeder then you should go to a .023”-024” that been my experience. Did not want to tell you how you should do your job.
Excellent observation. When I made this video the welder was only a month old. During that month I bought gas, a regulator and some .030 wire for use with gas. I've had stick welders in the past but MIG is new to me. After playing around with the welder a bit more I figured smaller wire would be much better and after changing to .024 it definitely was better. I wish they made a .020. I think it would be even better. You know the flux core wire did a little better than the gas although there was more slag. Bottom line, a 110v mig doesn't have enough power for much over 1/8-inch. I've actually welded a lot of 1/4" but it's pretty much on the surface and i would not trust the welds for anything very heavy.
Excellent build - thanks for sharing.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
I love that saw blade idea but I'd be a little concerned about the precision of the ratcheting system. Well, not so much a ratcheting system as a ratcheting piece.
It's an absolutely ingenious idea, I love when you can use your imagination to adapt one device for another purpose. It's a huge time saver when making machines. I just hope that anyone watching this who is a beginner or novice understands that when you need precision in 1 to 5 thousandths of an inch, that this is probably not going to be reliable. It might be if you make a ratcheting system with basically zero flex. The sheet metal probably does OK but that thin sheet of stainless is a bit concerning.
I may even adapt this idea for my own indexer so that I don't have to do the initial precise measurements. Again, a huge time saver.
Thank you for the video.
I'm sure their is some error although I'm not sure the ratchet on the saw blade is a significant source. It's amazingly rigid when you reverse into the tooth gullet I'd say there is error in multiple areas. The sleeve bushing in the drill and the arm the tool post are both areas that might move some. I've used it to make dials and drill bolt patterns (3 and 4 bolt) and never had a problem with the bolts lining up. I'm guessing that would be within .003 or .004.. But I agree, I would never use it to cut a gear. Hopefully anyone advanced enough to cut a gear understands the limitations.
Thanks for the comment, always good to hear concerns, and compliments of course!
Very useful projects, would you explain the wooden arm on a spring behind your lathe? Thank's for your video efforts
The steel bar works like a tapering attachment. I clamp a profile to the bar and a bearing mounted to a modified cover on my cross slide follows the contour. I disengaging the feed screw on the cross slide and attach the spring which hold the bearing against the profile. The spring is attached to the cross slide. The wood arm is just to hold the other end of the spring.
Using the saw blade is so cleaver! 👍🏻great job
Thanks 👍 I can't take credit for the idea. I learned it from Mr. Pete
@@WinkysWorkshop Mr Pete has some great tricks for sure
@@goldgulfcoastdesignericsho8628 - Yeah he helped me a lot in the past
Very ingeniously put together
Thanks you sir
Winky's Workshop God bless you sir
Just what i need! Thanks, and great job!!
Necessity is the mother of invention - imagination never hurts either. Whatever works. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the comment. Good assessment too. :o)
Great video and very motivating . I need to make some dails for my son's lathe once i installed a new cross slide leadscrew and nut . I saw something else on some of your videos and that is your cutting oil system . It seems to have air in the system as well while delivering the fluid to the work piece being machined . Is that to enhance the cooling of the tool and work piece whilst it is getting some lubrication? I make a lot of bushes to refurbish turbocharger waste gates so i do a lot of drilling in the lathe . I want to install a cutting fluid system so i thought i'd ask you about yours . I like your videos and it is awesome to see somone enjoying what he does .
The fluid being sprayed is a water based coolant called Kool Mist #77. You buy it by the gallon and dilute it 10 to 1. It's mostly air being sprayed so it is very economical. It works just as well as flood lubrication except that you don't have to recover the coolant. Although flood moved chip out of the way a little better. The sprayer I have is OriGlam Mist Coolant Lubrication Spray System but there are many out there. Just get one with both fluid and air valves. Glad you liked the videos, thanks for watching.
I really like this idea! Nice work!
Great video. And I agree about Mr Pete's channel, he has some great content.
Thanks. I'm going to try this idea on my Chinese mini lathe!
Go for it! Thanks for watching. (a gear also works well. A 48 tooth gets all the common numbers)
Can i 3D print indexing wheel ?
I wonder how thats going to play out.
I'm sure you could. I also have another video using a gear to index from. It has less combinations but for most things it is totally adequate. th-cam.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/w-d-xo.html
ery good video, well explained. I also learned this from mypete222 (Tubalcane) another really good chinned is Keith Rucker at vintage machinery. Keep up the good videos
really love your design!
well done sir! my only suggestion would be to use a fine thread for your expansion collet
Thanks and I totally agree about the fine thread. I find that I have to get the expansion nut fairly tight to avoid slippage and the fine thread would help.