Virago XV535 EP4 Stuck Bolts Removed. Thread repairs.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2021
- In this video I am removing the stuck bolts that plagued me in the engine removal video. The foot pegs, gear changer and brake pedal hangar bolt, rear cylinder head manifold, and that little sucker that holds the clutch actuator in. Just needed a bit of of heat, pressure and a few thumps from a lumpy metal thing. And as always, I set fire to stuff again.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
10 out of 10 for persistence and tenacity. We'll done. Another great and informative video. Your and fuel head jay vids are my go to references when I'm looking for info and inspiration with my VX. Keep it up. Dan
Very kind comments thanks, there isn’t anything you can’t do with a few smacks with a whacker and a bit of heat 😂. My next vid will be checking it all over, cleaning and reassembling but I need to make a parts washer so look out for the next one, I hope it’s worth a watch anyway. 👍
Good job done chap
May need to replace the transmission bearings, none of them have numbers on them though, I could drive them out and look at the reverse side. I think they’re expensive.
@@memybikeni9931 I'm dreading taking mine apart see what's wrong with mine should be this weekend start strip down was think just buy a running engine lol
@@fuelheadjay8800 hopefully just a valve, did you get a sense of leakage from anywhere when it was running ?
@@memybikeni9931 no leaks and adjusted valves but still only reading around 95 on front
@@fuelheadjay8800 Have you got an air compressor ? Try blowing air into the spark plug hole and see if you can hear it coming out of the head or the breather ? Gonna be either a damaged or bent valve or just rings I guess. The head gaskets on these are fairly robust. When you take the head off have a look at the single bolt that holds down the barrels, which I think is ridiculous and totally pointless. At some stage the heads on mine have been replaced, not by me, but they are 2GV which I believe is the US model, as the U.K. is 2YL which mine is. All very odd. Hope yours is a simple enough fix.
The removal of the engine guard bolt that you sheared off. Is it actually threaded at all? Or is it literally supposed to side in and out that 12mm hole?
The bolt is only threaded at the end for the nut, the rest of the bolt and the 12mm hole is plain. If yours is stuck then it is most likely aluminium oxide corrosion.
@@memybikeni9931 thanks I did get it out. Engine is completely fucked inside anyways xD ohwell.
@@09mantlek Yeah I have to say this is actually the worst engine I’ve ever had on a bike. And the electrics are the worst part.
@@memybikeni9931 couldn't agree more... I bought the bike not running and no electrics working. Got it all running passed MOT and tbh... once you got up to speed my cbr125 was faster at the top end.... honestly It aint worth a engine replacement I'm just stripping it for parts now.
I think I’m going to do the very same thing.
Hi Dan love youre vidios grate macanic well done have a verago 535 nise in cluch when bike is running when I pull in the cluch lever the nise is goes thanks regurds joe if you can help thanks Dan
Is this when the engine is in neutral idling, or while in gear still riding ?
@@memybikeni9931 spot on dan when it's in nutrel the noise is there when I pull in the cluch still running in nutrel the noise settles thanks dan
Sorry dan when she's idling grand in gear thanks
@@joepunk3020 it’s not an unusual noise to get when idling in neutral, sounds like a worn clutch, but could be anything as far back as the shaft bearings, broken dogs, bent forks, all sorts can cause vibrations that would result in rattles when idling. it would need pulling apart.
@@memybikeni9931 thanks Rick I could be any thing atall so not telling you you're job Rick could it be the starter cluch berring thanks my frind
I know this is a year old video but in my attempt to replace the brackets I was able to take the nut but when I went to the other side the head of the bolt broke smh. Any ideas on how to take this bolt out while still on the motorcycle? I tried drilling it but it reaches only about 2 inches deep and the bit doesn't go any further. Any help would be very much appreciated
Hii mate, so I of course had exactly the same issue when I took the nut off and sheared the head off the other end while trying to remove the brackets, as part of the engine removal, I just left the broken in bolt for the strip down to make it easier. But all it really needs is heat and hammers, or a good press. The issue is it’s going to be stuck fast with aluminium oxide, the hardest of all substances next to diamond sadly. try these things 1) Heat the case up with a propane torch, and using punches just keep hitting it. It will go eventually. The fact that’s the engine is still in the bike helps as you aren’t trying to hold the engine too. 2) get a ball joint press, they are a bit like a massive heavy duty G Clamp, I think that would have worked on mine as I broke two clamps that weren’t quite up to the job but did have an effect, so I recon a ball joint press will do it. Quite cheap on eBay. Still apply heat as you go. 3) Now this one is one you may think WTF, but get a long 10mm Masonry drill, you know the type with the paddle on the end. That part at the end is made of Tungsten Carbide, and should make short work of the bolt. Everyone thinks of them as drills for concrete and stone, but they will absolutely murder stainless Steele which is likely what the bolt is made of. Use a power drill. Try and buy a few second hand ones as carbide is brittle of course. Those would be my 3 ideas anyway, and if you’ve seen my other stuck bolt videos, you’ll see the bolt ALWAYS loses. You’re in charge 😊
@@memybikeni9931 idk where to begging thank you so much for all the great info, i actually though of getting an inductor from amazon to heat it up, I'm afraid to heat it with a touch and melt the gaskets, not trying to open the engine honestly. The ball joint sounds perfect I will try that approach. I also will get some cobalt drill bits supposedly it will eat on the steel. I tried the masonry bit but no help sadly. Thank you so much for the help. You are a legend
@@anglngr9 Cobalt drills may be okay, but they will work harden the bolt so probably won’t get all the way through. An inductor is a good idea. Probably keeping hitting it with a punch is going to be the best option really, combined with the press, that’s pretty much how mine came out. Either that or use the void behind the bolt to make another bolt and bracket arrangement, I think there is space there before you get anywhere near inside the engine case. Pause this video at 6:12 you’ll see what I mean.
I did it!!! I'm so happy I finally got it out. The ball joint clamp was a life saver, things to consider, the bolt was sticking out from both sides which helped alot to press from one side and on the other to hold the clamp in place, once the bolt starts to give in and you pressed all that was sticking out in I used an old drill bit, cut it to size to press more in, i did this because any bolt will bent. Once the bolt was in about half an inch it would not go in further. Here I used the drill to go in. I used a drill bit a little thinner than the actual bolt and made sure it's straight. After about 45 minutes of drilling I was in about 3 1/2 inches I used a bolt to knock on it and it came off. This was such a relief honestly. After 3 days of struggle. Thank you so much for the tips and help. You saved me a ton of time with your tips. You are a life saver...
@@anglngr9 Wow I am so pleased for you, that’s awesome, and I agree your tip on the drill bit was good, I used a bolt as a punch and you’re right they bent. I should have cut a drill bit down. Now you just need to get a needle file, clear the hole out and measure up for a new shouldered bolt. Unlikely you’ll need to struggle getting it out again in the future but maybe not a stainless bolt as I believe that’s what can cause all the aluminium oxide to build up in the casing. It’s funny as it was after I finished dealing with mine that I thought Joe. I have better a ball joint press would have been, but mostly as I trashed my G clamps. Glad it worked I really am. Well done mate. Why are you replacing the brackets anyway ?
hi, anybody knows what is the spring tensioner for? thanks
What spring tensioner are you referring to ? The one on top of the clutch rod actuator in this video, or the cam chain tensioner, or something else ?
@@memybikeni9931 hello, I refer to the actuator rod in minute 34. thanks
@@pianolista1487 yes this is a torsion spring that returns the actuator back to its resting position when you release the clutch leaver, as the bottom of the rod has a cam on it that actuates the rod, that operates the clutch on the other side of the bike. Without it, the actuator would stay in place and prevent the clutch from re engaging. If it breaks, it’s a pain to replace.