These Chevy truck electrical systems aren't too hard to work on! You just have to go through it step by step! Multimeter: amzn.to/3OekjZa Starter Switch: amzn.to/3URRc1v Ignition Lock Cylinder (Replacement): amzn.to/3Zb9zRH Starter Motor: amzn.to/4fLWX9z Starter Relay: amzn.to/3Od3Mo8 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I got a question for ya. I got a Chevy 2003 Silverado and I am having problems with my right turn signal. It work when the light flashes for turning, but sometimes the turn signal won’t work only on the right sometimes. Any idea what this might be. When the truck has the blinker sound the light works. When the light doesn’t not work there is no blinker noise
I have one that you didn’t mention! It took a month to figure out what it was on mine! Under the fuse box, one of the pins had gotten too hot and burned the plastic connector!
Number one you should not call your self a mechanic they change brakes and do oil changes a technician diagnosis problems I been a master certified automotive technician for 40 plus years and went to GM elections school if you need it didn't turn over I would have went to the starter first and seen if it had power than and jumped it to see if it turns over you might even have a locked up engine instead of taking the whole truck apart a famous person said time is money love your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
During a no crank situation, I would begin my my diag at the starter relay. Check load side and control side pins with relay taken off. Should have 2 powers and 2 grounds. Whatever is missing with the key in the crank position is what I am chasing next.
I have an intermittent no start situation. Seems to happen with changing outside temps. Fairly certain it’s my starter solenoid as I have gotten another person to crank the key over while I feel the relay and the relay is engaging. It’s my understanding that the neutral safety switch is between the column and the stater relay and it’s just straight wires from the relay to the solenoid. Anyways, I’ve had an ac delco gold starter on hand for a few months so I just need to put it on and see if it fixes the issue. Also for future diagnostics I was thinking of running a wire off of the starter solenoid signal post so in the future if I have a no start condition I hook a multimeter to that wire and see if it’s getting 12v to the solenoid.
Those relays are designed to go in upside down with no problem whatsoever, you don't need to worry about orientation. I'm a little surprised to see you start diagnostics at the column, where anti theft designs make the task difficult. Better to test further downstream at the relay or even the starter, where an easy check for signal allows you to quickly dismiss an entire arm of the circuit. Better yet, use an incandescent test light in case voltage drop or even bad ground is contributing. As much as new designs make getting to the starter more difficult, a fundamental approach like the three step algorithm with a test light as laid out by Scannerdanner here on TH-cam is way better. It takes minutes, needs nothing more than a test light, and can easily be done at the roadside.
Yeah, you can put them in either way, and it will work. My OCD won't let me though LOL. I started at the column because I replaced the starter switch and thought it went bad again. So I started there. A lot of guys would say start at the starter and I would if the truck was unknown to me.
Had the same problem. I lost my keys so I smashed a screw driver in it to start it. After like 15 or so turns it started doing that. I replaced the whole steering column and worked fine after that
I am currently fighting no spark, got voltage at the coils, but no voltage at the spark plugs, scanner pulls a P0336, swapped the crankshaft position sensor and the pigtail and still no start.
Please let me know posible cause of po300 I put everything on my hummer h2 and it keep showing po300 …the only thing that’ I didn’t buy is the catalytic converter people say that can be the problem
It’s misfiring, check spark plugs, coil packs, spark plug wires, vacuum lines might be ripping overtime, maybe injector wiring is falling out of the plastic that holds it. If you haven’t done that already
P0300 can be caused by just about anything. It usually has other codes that pop up at the same time to tell you exactly what the problem is. Better scan tools will tell you.
I had a weird issue if you turn the key all the way forward the dash lights go off and it just cranks. If you turn the key just enough to crank the engine the dash lights stay on and it starts right up. Think it’s the switch under the column?
Im having something similar, my shit cranks but doesn’t turn on, it’s getting fuel, spark, and air, starter is working, and timing is good, but I’m having a weird issue where my check engine light stays on even after taking the key out of the ignition, I hope it’s just the ignition switch tho 😭
@@luipulido4571ground strap to the back of the drivers side head? Mine showed all three, but the bad ground wouldn't let the injectors open. I was getting enough current to light the noid lights, but not open the injectors. All day to trace😮
These Chevy truck electrical systems aren't too hard to work on!
You just have to go through it step by step!
Multimeter: amzn.to/3OekjZa
Starter Switch: amzn.to/3URRc1v
Ignition Lock Cylinder (Replacement): amzn.to/3Zb9zRH
Starter Motor: amzn.to/4fLWX9z
Starter Relay: amzn.to/3Od3Mo8
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I got a question for ya. I got a Chevy 2003 Silverado and I am having problems with my right turn signal. It work when the light flashes for turning, but sometimes the turn signal won’t work only on the right sometimes. Any idea what this might be. When the truck has the blinker sound the light works. When the light doesn’t not work there is no blinker noise
@@southerncastin7092check the fuzes first for the turning signals left and right
I have one that you didn’t mention! It took a month to figure out what it was on mine! Under the fuse box, one of the pins had gotten too hot and burned the plastic connector!
I learned that, after replacing everything else that was about of the starting systems.
Ohhh that happens a lot it fries the starter motor relay wire. FUN!
Which fuse box... the under hood fuse box, or the IP fuse box?
Excellent Professional video, good knowledge 🧠
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Thanks brother for the advice very helpful 😊
No problem, glad it helped!
The hard part finding parts worth putting back on
Always!
Number one you should not call your self a mechanic they change brakes and do oil changes a technician diagnosis problems I been a master certified automotive technician for 40 plus years and went to GM elections school if you need it didn't turn over I would have went to the starter first and seen if it had power than and jumped it to see if it turns over you might even have a locked up engine instead of taking the whole truck apart a famous person said time is money love your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Thanks alot Matt good class
Laterrrrrrr
You're welcome! Glad you liked it! Laterrrrr!!!!
I replaced all those parts and I have the same problem. I ended up having to push in the ignition cylinder and turning the key and it works
During a no crank situation, I would begin my my diag at the starter relay. Check load side and control side pins with relay taken off. Should have 2 powers and 2 grounds. Whatever is missing with the key in the crank position is what I am chasing next.
Yea, I normally would, but this truck had problems with the starter switch so I started there.
I have an intermittent no start situation. Seems to happen with changing outside temps. Fairly certain it’s my starter solenoid as I have gotten another person to crank the key over while I feel the relay and the relay is engaging. It’s my understanding that the neutral safety switch is between the column and the stater relay and it’s just straight wires from the relay to the solenoid. Anyways, I’ve had an ac delco gold starter on hand for a few months so I just need to put it on and see if it fixes the issue. Also for future diagnostics I was thinking of running a wire off of the starter solenoid signal post so in the future if I have a no start condition I hook a multimeter to that wire and see if it’s getting 12v to the solenoid.
Anytime I suspect the starter is bad I replace them. They all have 100,000s of miles on them and have had a hard life at this point.
@ That was my thought as well. 173k and the original one. It had a good run.
So the starter is the same for 4.8 5.3 and 6.0?
NO 4.8 and 5.3 9 tooth 6.0 11 tooth. Look at the specs when you buy it.
Those relays are designed to go in upside down with no problem whatsoever, you don't need to worry about orientation. I'm a little surprised to see you start diagnostics at the column, where anti theft designs make the task difficult. Better to test further downstream at the relay or even the starter, where an easy check for signal allows you to quickly dismiss an entire arm of the circuit. Better yet, use an incandescent test light in case voltage drop or even bad ground is contributing. As much as new designs make getting to the starter more difficult, a fundamental approach like the three step algorithm with a test light as laid out by Scannerdanner here on TH-cam is way better. It takes minutes, needs nothing more than a test light, and can easily be done at the roadside.
Yeah, you can put them in either way, and it will work. My OCD won't let me though LOL.
I started at the column because I replaced the starter switch and thought it went bad again. So I started there. A lot of guys would say start at the starter and I would if the truck was unknown to me.
I have a 99 Silverado that starts but then dies right away . Does that sound familiar ? thanks
Had the same problem. I lost my keys so I smashed a screw driver in it to start it. After like 15 or so turns it started doing that. I replaced the whole steering column and worked fine after that
Sounds like a bad ignition switch.
Ignition Switch, alternator, crankshaft position sensor, or camshaft position sensor.
Kill Switch🕵♂ how and Where Also How to Chain / cable LOCK your Chevy Truck Hood
The starter switch? HA my trucks are stock. No need for that!
@@MattsShop Hidden wired kill switch in cab , using Fuze Box in engine bay.
I am currently fighting no spark, got voltage at the coils, but no voltage at the spark plugs, scanner pulls a P0336, swapped the crankshaft position sensor and the pigtail and still no start.
Please let me know posible cause of po300 I put everything on my hummer h2 and it keep showing po300 …the only thing that’ I didn’t buy is the catalytic converter people say that can be the problem
It’s misfiring, check spark plugs, coil packs, spark plug wires, vacuum lines might be ripping overtime, maybe injector wiring is falling out of the plastic that holds it. If you haven’t done that already
P0300 can be caused by just about anything. It usually has other codes that pop up at the same time to tell you exactly what the problem is. Better scan tools will tell you.
I had a weird issue if you turn the key all the way forward the dash lights go off and it just cranks. If you turn the key just enough to crank the engine the dash lights stay on and it starts right up. Think it’s the switch under the column?
Im having something similar, my shit cranks but doesn’t turn on, it’s getting fuel, spark, and air, starter is working, and timing is good, but I’m having a weird issue where my check engine light stays on even after taking the key out of the ignition, I hope it’s just the ignition switch tho 😭
It's probably the ignition switch. They do weird stuff like that when they go bad. There's no telling though until you check it out.
@@luipulido4571ground strap to the back of the drivers side head?
Mine showed all three, but the bad ground wouldn't let the injectors open. I was getting enough current to light the noid lights, but not open the injectors.
All day to trace😮
I am struggling with this Jimmy :( Cranks and fires then dies.. as if its a Security lockout.. but the dam security light isnt on -_-
I have replaced all of these, and my chevy won't really crank, and the battery dies almost instantly or acts like it any ideas
I have a 01 Tahoe it turns over but will not fire.
10min?
It always goes missing!