This video couldn’t have come at a better time. Im installing my first curbless shower using the hydro ban system and about to waterproof the floor. I have taken much inspiration and knowledge from your channel. Many thanks if you see this comment
I watched tons of your videos before I did my bathroom it came out great,3x6 curbless shower a soaking tub with a schluter heated floor in the entire bath plus the shower and bench after watching your videos I used the Flo-fx drain and all schluter waterproofing and all set and because I’m a beginner I hit all the exposed thin set with Hydroban THANKS for all your knowledge.
TileCoach, we're building a shower just like this right now. Two actually, but only one is curbless. We used white 8+9 changes it up a little bit. When you waterproof with 8+9, you gotta wait 3 days to waterproof for the pan to dry, they say. But that blue flo fx membrane and the branding they do on it, is slick. I mean, prep is fun. Try to get this stuff as tight and precision as possible then tiling is fun and turns out better.
Best to waterproof the entire bathroom floor for curbless showers in my opinion (looks like the crack isolation in this video also serves that function). This will protect the floor in case of water wicking vertically through the thinset/grout and offers a little insurance if the drain backs up since there is no barrier to keep the water in the shower.
I had a lady who left a wash cloth on the drain for what she claimed was a few mins but sent water all over the bathroom. It definitely can happen lol.
Great video! It's nice to see the products you sell on your site in use. If you were doing a curbed shower, what style/method/brand of curb would you use with the FlowFX membrane system? FlowFX doesn't offer curbs from what I can see. Would an RSS or Kerdi curb be compatible, or is it not recommended to mix and match brands like that? Thanks Isaac!
Thank you for all the work and effort you put into your videos, tests, and tips. You are make me and the industry better! You have also inspired me to start doing my own testing and improve my efficiency. I have a question regular 😮installing waterproof membrane instalation and lapping. It seems to me it would make more sense to install the membrane on the shower floor first, then do the linear corner strips onto the floor, followed by the corner prices and finally, the shower walls. If the wall membranes were installed last, the water shed would be better. It always bothers me that the overlap invites water in if the linear strips and corners are installed last. Am I overly worried about this? Is the bond and seal of the membrane on membrane overlap so good, this is a non-issue? My other question on membrane is; when installing them on shower walls, can I use the NoFlo large sheet, start at one corner, and work the sheet into the corner without cutting it and continue on to the other walls without cutting the corners? Just thought it would prevent a lot of potential failure points and eliminate vertical corner strips. Am I missing something?
Was my question too. Looking like new fabric stuff is taking over. But how could fabric be better that vinyl. But was wondering how the vinyl could lay flat on floor for curbless shower and be able to tile over
Versabond by Custom is good stuff but even though he doesn't mention it by name I don't think that's what hes using based on his other videos . In this video he mentions he doesn't use it for setting tile because its expensive. NOTE: Versabond only runs about $30 for a 50lb a bag whereas Laticrete Multimax Lite (that he promotes in a lot of his videos) runs $50 for a 25lb bag. FYI: Check out his video "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" In that video he states: Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations. Also... two other "hints" that its Multimax Lite... at 4:56 he states: "its so strong and so expensive... its hard to clean off your tools". BINGO: Multimax Lite is about twice the price of the more widely available thinsets from the big box stores... and no argument, even before it fully sets, cleaning Multimax off your hands and tools is a lot of work! Gets sticky!
Although not mentioned in this video, Isaac frequently mention in other videos his preferred thinset for this type of application is to use LATICRETE MULTIMAX LITE because it has a smooth creamy texture with no sand making it easy to spread and work with.
Another great video Isaac. I've watched a lot of your videos and notice you use a lot of different products. Is it because of different styles of showers, or are you just always testing new products that you think are the best? As of now, what system would you recommend to a DIYer with some tile experience to use for a walk in shower? You mentioned in this video how the tile redi system is good for DIYers, but I'm wondering why you wouldn't always use that? Is it a price difference for your clients? Thanks for the great and helpful videos!
Do you ship to Canada? Unfortunately, we do not have awesome products like FLOW fx here. The best we got is Schluter, however, I don't really trust them much anymore after following your channel for a few years. Hope we can get these products out here asap!
HEY Could a vinyl liner be used for curbless shower . & Will tile pop up where it ends and meet let's say crack protection mat. Since dry pack goes ontop of vinyl right?
Hello I'm Donnie and I really appreciate your video's. I have question about curbless showers. Do you have to have fall in the whole bathroom or just the shower itself? Thanks again Donnie
You would only need to concern yourself with "fall or slope" of the whole bathroom if you were building a "wet room" ...i.e., where the entire bathroom floor area is designed to be flooded with water or get wet. For example having a shower with no doors, walls or curtains and maybe a free standing soaker tub, and a drain located in the center of the room to catch all errant water so it will drain away. If your shower is its own area, contained with walls, partitions, doors etc, then you only have to address the fall or slope of the shower floor to insure it has adequate draining. In regards to a "curbless shower", as Isaac mentions in the comments: "Tile showers that have a curbless entrance need to have the waterproofing extended out 12" past the threshold of the shower." NET: The "sloped area" of your shower should start 1 foot outside the main shower floor area. Other than that the rest of your floor would be level and flat.
What other trade that has so much to do with finished looks and luxury has so many bad jobs outt there? Ur right we should all strive to change that. We have to EVEN out the number of good tile installers. Prevent whoever we can from failing.
True enough... as long as cost is not an option. GoBoard is three times the cost of cement board and a Tile Redi pan (with prices pushing $1000) is a whole lot more than a $10 bag of dry pack mortar.
@@eltonnoway7864 tile redi is clearly overpriced, but if you factor in the labor, it's not too bad. With Goboard, you have to factor in cement board and waterproof membrane or redguard. It comes out about even, but Goboard is quick and very hard to mess up.
I purchased densshield for my shower walls and ceiling . Should I tape and waterproof each seam and screw or will thinset over these areas be sufficient?
Issac has yet to respond to this question which has been asked "multiple" times... However... in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" - he states: "Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations." Also... two other "hints" that he's using Multimax Lite... at 4:56 he states: "its so strong and so expensive... its hard to clean off your tools". BINGO: Multimax Lite is about twice the price of thee more widely available thinsets from the big box stores... and no argument, even before it fully sets, cleaning Multimax off your hands and tools is a lot of work!
Issac has yet to respond to this question which has been asked "multiple" times... However... in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" - he states: "Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations."
By design, if the slope is correct (2% or 1/4" per foot) water will migrate to the drain. In a curbless with the drain plugged you simply fill the shower pan up to the point where it would be just short of overflowing into the bathroom. Granted, with a curbless system the water level might not be 2 or 3 inches deep like it might be in a curbed shower but that's not an issue. After filling the pan area, just measure the depth of the water over the drain at the start of your flood test and check it again in 24 hours. e.g. At start of testing, if you start measure 3/4" of water over the drain... and still have 3/4" of water 24 hours later... you're golden.
In my opinion the waterproofing should be throughout the bathroom if it's curbless, the big problem that no contractors explain to customers is when you have a toilet backup it's going to flood the lowest points first, so the curbless shower makes a guaranteed flood any time the drain backs up even a little bit, which I've found almost none of my customers snake their drains preventatively they wait till the flood to fix the problem, pretty stupid if you ask me...
pretty sure it's multimax lite, he has been using it in the past and from what I saw, it had the same consistency as the multimax... it's really creamy and super sticky
@@Sal_4289 Nope... 4 months since he uploaded this video and the question as to "what" thinset he was using remains unanswered. That said , in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!- " he states - Multimax lite has no sand in it its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations. (and yes it falls under A118.15)
Wouldn't sheet membrane first then bands and corners running on top of it be a better system? You mentioned it briefly. It might be easier ( nicer to your floor) if you do the corners and bands first, but that system seems like it could fail with all the gravity feed water running down the walls. Any thoughts??
I was wondering about that as well until I got found an answer. Check out TH-cam content provider "Sal DiBlasi" and look for his video titled: "Shower waterproofing, step by step", once you find his video, jump to 34;46 where he goes into detail about what to do first.
I thought that non-mod thinset is used between 2 impervious layers because the mod thinset won't get enough air to dry/cure. Whereas the non-mod thinset uses the trapped moisture to cure. But you are using the mod-thinset to do the corners and the banding which is membrane on membrane??? Thanks
You used to promote Ardex 8 & 9 quite a lot for shower waterproofing, so I've used it on my pans and bottom 6"-8" of my shower walls. You don't seem to mention it anymore, so was there a problem you ran into? I'm not a fan or RedGuard, and Mapeis Aqua Defense comes apart with thinset on top. Please advise. Thank you.
What is the thinset he is using? I know it’s been asked many times and no response. Everyone is assuming laticrete but he has just posted a video saying he will not use laticrete anymore……. So what is the best waterproofing thinset????
He mentions two reason as to why he doesn't use it to set tiles because: 1) Its hard to clean off your installation tools - 2) It's expensive (MulitiMax Lite - what he appears t be using - runs about $50 for a 25lb bag.
Yep! Not a problem. Mixing and matching membrane and banding, corners etc. is done all the time... no big deal. The only problem or issue would be if you try to file a warranty claim down the road. All of these companies will deny a claim if they find evidence you married, mixed or matched their product with another brand.
It would have been nice if Issac specifically identified the thinset he's using in this video or at least mentioned it in the information section instead of just saying "This is my preferred thinset" 04:20. In one of his replies below he simply states: "Mapei Keraflex Super, Laticrete 254, Customs Flex Bond all would be good choices" (none of which identify what he's using in this video). That said, due to the the color and creamy consistency it looks like Laticrete Multimax Lite! And... in one of his earlier videos titled: "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!! - He states: "I mixed up Multimax Lite thinset, Multimax Lite has no sand in it, it's highly modified. And this Latecrete Multimax Lite is what I use for all my of my sheet membrane installations and for putting down foam trays when I use them".
I belive he's using Laticrete MultiMax Lite. He's recommend it in other videos for it's insane amount of polymers stating that impedes water penetration. I have never used that product because it's not available in my town. I ended up order it directly from Laticrete on Amazon. I'm going to do some test with it and some NoFlo membrane and see how I like it. It's super spendy, so I hope it's good. I paid $155 for 2 bags delivered.
@@mankatovalleyseed8557 Update.. although the question of what thinset Issac is using remains unanswered, like your situation Multimax Lite is also not available from any stores in my home town. I also looked into Amazon but found I could get it cheaper (including tax and delivery from flooranddecor. I only paid $112 for 2 bags delivered, Granted the shipping charge was almost nothing because I live less than 100 miles from their shipping warehouse.
@@palmerstile9379 Yep! I ordered enough FloFX membrane (cut to size) from TIle Coach to do my shower floor... turned out great! I ended up using Multi Max Lite. Super smooth and easy to work with, but once it starts to set... cleaning it off tools is not a simple task.
@tilecoach can you tile over tile.. I'm extremely concerned.. I don't have the money to hire another contractor to redo the shower.. I just hired a contractor and its costing me 12k to convert the tub into a shower and they used kerdi board and then "water proofed" it... the mosaic tiles on it look like a roller coaster and they are saying the mortar will fix it.. but I know its not pitched properly. 1 foot around the drain looks like a huge valley to where the drain is, but the drain is actually like 1/4 to 1/3 inch higher than the tiles.. and the floor mosaic tiles by the walls look like they are on angles.. They say I'm not a contractor and don't know what I'm talking about.. just to trust them which I don't.. I know they don't have 95% coverage behind the shower tile as I'm able to see behind it as well.. Not sure what to do.. I contacted another contractor who stated it would be 10-20k to redo the job. I wasn't sure if I could cover their floor tile and tile myself with a proper pitch to fix it? I have no idea what to do and a 10-15k job is now going to cost like 30k if I have to a pay a second contractor to redo the work of the first one who still hasn't finished.
Make a guidline on the outside edge with a center mark and trowel the thinset then you just have to line up the outside edge and the mark and drop the sheet *edit This way you can run the membrane up the wall easier also Yes im still watching atm lol
The correct term is "linear foot." This term is used to measure length in a straight line. For example, if you are measuring the length of a piece of lumber, you would measure it in linear feet. "Lineal" is a term typically used in genealogical contexts to refer to direct descent or ancestry, such as in "lineal descendants." Therefore, when measuring length, "linear foot" is the appropriate term to use.
Im surprised you haven't came out with your own products yet Isaac. You can have a manufacturer OEM all of that stuff for you and keep the money in your pocket. Just sayin! You work too hard not to havw your own brand. Why give all your money away to the companies that have 1500% markups? Lol
To each their own ! Pretty sure if he would like to have his own product he would done it. He’s an artist, a tile / shower installer and that’s what he love. I don’t see why going in a business already full of different good options and have less time to do what you love.. He probably have good discount for showing up on his channel too! Just my 2 cents
@@mikedelmonte255 100% to each their own. You would absolutely make a ton more if you had OEM make your product. I won't share what i fully know, but Im in business to make money and one day not have to set tile either...can only make so much just installing.
@@MAGAMAN the difference is he isn't a youtuber..and he wouldn't be "making" anything. That's what a manufacturer is for 😂...I can clearly see Im on a different level business wise as practically everyone that sets tile. Lessen my competition by a long shot, no problem with that!
Your mom is definitely proud. Keep up the good work, Isaac.
Definitely subscribing to this guy's channel. He convinced me when he started explaining water vapor compared to hydrogen and oxygen in the air.
This video couldn’t have come at a better time. Im installing my first curbless shower using the hydro ban system and about to waterproof the floor. I have taken much inspiration and knowledge from your channel. Many thanks if you see this comment
You are that kind of person that got the natural talent to communicate
Thanks you
I'm admire you
She is watching you! God bless you, brother.!
My man your videos rock, thank you so much for doing them and for sharing them. It's really appreciated.
Thank you for creating & sharing these 'how to' videos. You are a great source of help 🤝🏽👍🏼👍🏽❗
Flofx membrane is the best on the market for sure, very thin and yet stronger than schluter.
The vapor drive part is something commonly overlooked,glad you touched on it,keep rollin brotha 👊🏼
I watched tons of your videos before I did my bathroom it came out great,3x6 curbless shower a soaking tub with a schluter heated floor in the entire bath plus the shower and bench after watching your videos I used the Flo-fx drain and all schluter waterproofing and all set and because I’m a beginner I hit all the exposed thin set with Hydroban THANKS for all your knowledge.
Sorry for your loss, mate. It never gets easier does it.
Classic red D-2001 bucket chillin in the background
TileCoach, we're building a shower just like this right now. Two actually, but only one is curbless. We used white 8+9 changes it up a little bit. When you waterproof with 8+9, you gotta wait 3 days to waterproof for the pan to dry, they say. But that blue flo fx membrane and the branding they do on it, is slick. I mean, prep is fun. Try to get this stuff as tight and precision as possible then tiling is fun and turns out better.
Best to waterproof the entire bathroom floor for curbless showers in my opinion (looks like the crack isolation in this video also serves that function). This will protect the floor in case of water wicking vertically through the thinset/grout and offers a little insurance if the drain backs up since there is no barrier to keep the water in the shower.
But the sheets are 78 inches wide. So do you tape / band the joints?
@@EtreTocsin you can transition to a roll on membrane or use Ditra with banding to waterproof the room
I had a lady who left a wash cloth on the drain for what she claimed was a few mins but sent water all over the bathroom. It definitely can happen lol.
I'm putting in two drains in my 4'x8' shower for insurance.....
Thanks as always for your wonderful videos. What's the name of the best modified thinset that you said you like to use with a sheet membrane?
New subscriber. I’m learning a lot. Thanks for the video!
Great video! It's nice to see the products you sell on your site in use. If you were doing a curbed shower, what style/method/brand of curb would you use with the FlowFX membrane system? FlowFX doesn't offer curbs from what I can see. Would an RSS or Kerdi curb be compatible, or is it not recommended to mix and match brands like that? Thanks Isaac!
Thank you for all the work and effort you put into your videos, tests, and tips. You are make me and the industry better! You have also inspired me to start doing my own testing and improve my efficiency.
I have a question regular 😮installing waterproof membrane instalation and lapping. It seems to me it would make more sense to install the membrane on the shower floor first, then do the linear corner strips onto the floor, followed by the corner prices and finally, the shower walls. If the wall membranes were installed last, the water shed would be better. It always bothers me that the overlap invites water in if the linear strips and corners are installed last. Am I overly worried about this? Is the bond and seal of the membrane on membrane overlap so good, this is a non-issue?
My other question on membrane is; when installing them on shower walls, can I use the NoFlo large sheet, start at one corner, and work the sheet into the corner without cutting it and continue on to the other walls without cutting the corners? Just thought it would prevent a lot of potential failure points and eliminate vertical corner strips. Am I missing something?
What does the lifetime warranty actually cover?
Word-has anyone actually recovered on warranties from any of them-Schleuter,laticrete, etc.
means nothing. try and get a warranty and get the runaround 😂
Kirk for the win! Please pass on the good luck!
that extra wide width is a great option 👍
How does the Flox FX membrane compare to the Oatey liner?
Was my question too. Looking like new fabric stuff is taking over. But how could fabric be better that vinyl. But was wondering how the vinyl could lay flat on floor for curbless shower and be able to tile over
Did I miss the brand of thinset mortar? I am guessing its Versabond by Custom?
Versabond by Custom is good stuff but even though he doesn't mention it by name I don't think that's what hes using based on his other videos . In this video he mentions he doesn't use it for setting tile because its expensive. NOTE: Versabond only runs about $30 for a 50lb a bag whereas Laticrete Multimax Lite (that he promotes in a lot of his videos) runs $50 for a 25lb bag. FYI: Check out his video "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" In that video he states: Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations. Also... two other "hints" that its Multimax Lite... at 4:56 he states: "its so strong and so expensive... its hard to clean off your tools". BINGO: Multimax Lite is about twice the price of the more widely available thinsets from the big box stores... and no argument, even before it fully sets, cleaning Multimax off your hands and tools is a lot of work! Gets sticky!
Nice work brother!!
You didn't state the thinset details.
I'm big on prolite from custom for that work.
Mapei Keraflex Super, Laticrete 254, customs flex bond all would be good choices
@@TileCoach How about Mapei large format floor and wall tile mortar?
Great stuff as always brother. Thank you 🙏
may i ask who makes the thinset that you recommended here? thanks. great video and love your work.
Wondering the same thing.
He didn’t name it was surprised!
Although not mentioned in this video, Isaac frequently mention in other videos his preferred thinset for this type of application is to use LATICRETE MULTIMAX LITE because it has a smooth creamy texture with no sand making it easy to spread and work with.
Another great video Isaac. I've watched a lot of your videos and notice you use a lot of different products. Is it because of different styles of showers, or are you just always testing new products that you think are the best? As of now, what system would you recommend to a DIYer with some tile experience to use for a walk in shower? You mentioned in this video how the tile redi system is good for DIYers, but I'm wondering why you wouldn't always use that? Is it a price difference for your clients? Thanks for the great and helpful videos!
Could you please tell us more about the crack isolation? What is the brand? Is it just a liquid or is it a liquid and a membrane? Thank you!
after putting down your deck mud and how do you work without disturbing the sand, is that what your panels were for over the cardboard?
Great video! What wall board did you use and the black joint liquid membrane?
Amazing work!
Isaac , do you put the membrane over the foam shower pans , or can you ?
Do you ship to Canada? Unfortunately, we do not have awesome products like FLOW fx here. The best we got is Schluter, however, I don't really trust them much anymore after following your channel for a few years. Hope we can get these products out here asap!
What part of Canada?
@@duddyjay10 pacific, BC
@@iFortold I'll see what we can do
HEY
Could a vinyl liner be used for curbless shower . & Will tile pop up where it ends and meet let's say crack protection mat. Since dry pack goes ontop of vinyl right?
how would you go 12" past if you were gona go with stained concreate and not tiling past the shower door ?
How do you stop wicking from the shower tile to the rest of the floor tile? Hope I am describing the question adequately.
Hello I'm Donnie and I really appreciate your video's. I have question about curbless showers. Do you have to have fall in the whole bathroom or just the shower itself? Thanks again Donnie
You would only need to concern yourself with "fall or slope" of the whole bathroom if you were building a "wet room" ...i.e., where the entire bathroom floor area is designed to be flooded with water or get wet. For example having a shower with no doors, walls or curtains and maybe a free standing soaker tub, and a drain located in the center of the room to catch all errant water so it will drain away. If your shower is its own area, contained with walls, partitions, doors etc, then you only have to address the fall or slope of the shower floor to insure it has adequate draining. In regards to a "curbless shower", as Isaac mentions in the comments: "Tile showers that have a curbless entrance need to have the waterproofing extended out 12" past the threshold of the shower." NET: The "sloped area" of your shower should start 1 foot outside the main shower floor area. Other than that the rest of your floor would be level and flat.
What other trade that has so much to do with finished looks and luxury has so many bad jobs outt there? Ur right we should all strive to change that. We have to EVEN out the number of good tile installers. Prevent whoever we can from failing.
Looks like a lot of work, I'll stick to tile redi pans and goboard. Both of which are readily available.
True enough... as long as cost is not an option. GoBoard is three times the cost of cement board and a Tile Redi pan (with prices pushing $1000) is a whole lot more than a $10 bag of dry pack mortar.
@@eltonnoway7864 tile redi is clearly overpriced, but if you factor in the labor, it's not too bad. With Goboard, you have to factor in cement board and waterproof membrane or redguard. It comes out about even, but Goboard is quick and very hard to mess up.
I purchased densshield for my shower walls and ceiling . Should I tape and waterproof each seam and screw or will thinset over these areas be sufficient?
What thinset did you use?
What thinset are you using to put down the sheet membrane? You talked about it but I didn't catch the name.
Issac has yet to respond to this question which has been asked "multiple" times... However... in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" - he states: "Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations." Also... two other "hints" that he's using Multimax Lite... at 4:56 he states: "its so strong and so expensive... its hard to clean off your tools". BINGO: Multimax Lite is about twice the price of thee more widely available thinsets from the big box stores... and no argument, even before it fully sets, cleaning Multimax off your hands and tools is a lot of work!
Are you running the wp membrane around the room perimiter?? It doesn't take much for water to roll to the edge if the room....
What was the brand of highly modified thinset you were using?
Issac has yet to respond to this question which has been asked "multiple" times... However... in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!" - he states: "Laticrete Multimax Lite has no sand in it, its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations."
Sierra College!? I played golf for them 07-08
How do you water test a curbless shower?
By design, if the slope is correct (2% or 1/4" per foot) water will migrate to the drain. In a curbless with the drain plugged you simply fill the shower pan up to the point where it would be just short of overflowing into the bathroom. Granted, with a curbless system the water level might not be 2 or 3 inches deep like it might be in a curbed shower but that's not an issue. After filling the pan area, just measure the depth of the water over the drain at the start of your flood test and check it again in 24 hours. e.g. At start of testing, if you start measure 3/4" of water over the drain... and still have 3/4" of water 24 hours later... you're golden.
Why can't you use an extra 4 inches of the floor membrane to put on the wall instead of the band?
He answered that at 7:30
My bad 🤭 thank you!
Hey coach can this be used with hydroban board?
In my opinion the waterproofing should be throughout the bathroom if it's curbless, the big problem that no contractors explain to customers is when you have a toilet backup it's going to flood the lowest points first, so the curbless shower makes a guaranteed flood any time the drain backs up even a little bit, which I've found almost none of my customers snake their drains preventatively they wait till the flood to fix the problem, pretty stupid if you ask me...
I don't think you ever called out the thin set make and model? Maybe I missed it
pretty sure it's multimax lite, he has been using it in the past and from what I saw, it had the same consistency as the multimax... it's really creamy and super sticky
This highly modified thin-set fall under A118.15? Improved Modified?
Did he ever name it??
@@Sal_4289 Nope... 4 months since he uploaded this video and the question as to "what" thinset he was using remains unanswered. That said , in another one of his videos with the title - "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!!- " he states - Multimax lite has no sand in it its highly modified and Multimax Lite is what I use for all of my sheet membrane installations. (and yes it falls under A118.15)
@@FixthisCD thank you.
@@eltonnoway7864 thank you.
So is the kerdi fad over?
Wouldn't sheet membrane first then bands and corners running on top of it be a better system? You mentioned it briefly. It might be easier ( nicer to your floor) if you do the corners and bands first, but that system seems like it could fail with all the gravity feed water running down the walls. Any thoughts??
I was wondering about that as well until I got found an answer. Check out TH-cam content provider "Sal DiBlasi" and look for his video titled: "Shower waterproofing, step by step", once you find his video, jump to 34;46 where he goes into detail about what to do first.
What's the name of thinset youvuse?
curious about the flood test on this? how?
Wouldn’t it be better to add the banding then the corner pieces on top of the banding?
I don't think they specify, only that you have 2" overlap or the like.
I thought that non-mod thinset is used between 2 impervious layers because the mod thinset won't get enough air to dry/cure. Whereas the non-mod thinset uses the trapped moisture to cure. But you are using the mod-thinset to do the corners and the banding which is membrane on membrane??? Thanks
The opposite, only use non modified if it's open to air. Like laying the tiles onto a water proof membrane. modified dries through chemical cure.
Anyone know what wall system that is? Not sure I’ve ever seen the black liquid sealer?
Is NoFlo rated for Steam Showers? There's basically no technical information or install instructions on their website.
Yes, NoFlo is steam rated.
Do you do anything to the walls past the band? Thanks
Nope
Hey I wanted to sign up for your $900 float class. Are you no longer doing that??
You used to promote Ardex 8 & 9 quite a lot for shower waterproofing, so I've used it on my pans and bottom 6"-8" of my shower walls. You don't seem to mention it anymore, so was there a problem you ran into? I'm not a fan or RedGuard, and Mapeis Aqua Defense comes apart with thinset on top. Please advise. Thank you.
8+9 is great stuff!
@@TileCoach Thank you, Isaac
How do you finish that corner without cornerbead on?
What is the thinset he is using? I know it’s been asked many times and no response. Everyone is assuming laticrete but he has just posted a video saying he will not use laticrete anymore……. So what is the best waterproofing thinset????
You said that you’re using a “highly modified “ thin set that doesn’t allow moisture to penetrate but you don’t use it to set tile.
Why not?
He mentions two reason as to why he doesn't use it to set tiles because: 1) Its hard to clean off your installation tools - 2) It's expensive (MulitiMax Lite - what he appears t be using - runs about $50 for a 25lb bag.
We love you, too.
Can I use these banding and corners with Schluter shower pans instead of getting ripped off by Schluter?
Yep! Not a problem. Mixing and matching membrane and banding, corners etc. is done all the time... no big deal. The only problem or issue would be if you try to file a warranty claim down the road. All of these companies will deny a claim if they find evidence you married, mixed or matched their product with another brand.
Yea I use go board walls often if I can't get schulter and go board screws on everything because the schulter screws suck.
What do you use on irregular angle corners that aren’t 90’s?
If you made a custom, non conforming angle then you will have to either piece-meal it or use a liquid water proofing membrane like Laticrete Hydro Ban
It would have been nice if Issac specifically identified the thinset he's using in this video or at least mentioned it in the information section instead of just saying "This is my preferred thinset" 04:20. In one of his replies below he simply states: "Mapei Keraflex Super, Laticrete 254, Customs Flex Bond all would be good choices" (none of which identify what he's using in this video). That said, due to the the color and creamy consistency it looks like Laticrete Multimax Lite! And... in one of his earlier videos titled: "Installing a FloFX Drain in a SCHLUTER KERDI FOAM PAN!!! - He states: "I mixed up Multimax Lite thinset, Multimax Lite has no sand in it, it's highly modified. And this Latecrete Multimax Lite is what I use for all my of my sheet membrane installations and for putting down foam trays when I use them".
I belive he's using Laticrete MultiMax Lite. He's recommend it in other videos for it's insane amount of polymers stating that impedes water penetration. I have never used that product because it's not available in my town. I ended up order it directly from Laticrete on Amazon. I'm going to do some test with it and some NoFlo membrane and see how I like it. It's super spendy, so I hope it's good. I paid $155 for 2 bags delivered.
@@mankatovalleyseed8557 Update.. although the question of what thinset Issac is using remains unanswered, like your situation Multimax Lite is also not available from any stores in my home town. I also looked into Amazon but found I could get it cheaper (including tax and delivery from flooranddecor. I only paid $112 for 2 bags delivered, Granted the shipping charge was almost nothing because I live less than 100 miles from their shipping warehouse.
MML, tri lite, or pro lite work best with the Flofx membrane.
@@palmerstile9379 Yep! I ordered enough FloFX membrane (cut to size) from TIle Coach to do my shower floor... turned out great! I ended up using Multi Max Lite. Super smooth and easy to work with, but once it starts to set... cleaning it off tools is not a simple task.
@tilecoach can you tile over tile.. I'm extremely concerned.. I don't have the money to hire another contractor to redo the shower.. I just hired a contractor and its costing me 12k to convert the tub into a shower and they used kerdi board and then "water proofed" it... the mosaic tiles on it look like a roller coaster and they are saying the mortar will fix it.. but I know its not pitched properly. 1 foot around the drain looks like a huge valley to where the drain is, but the drain is actually like 1/4 to 1/3 inch higher than the tiles.. and the floor mosaic tiles by the walls look like they are on angles.. They say I'm not a contractor and don't know what I'm talking about.. just to trust them which I don't.. I know they don't have 95% coverage behind the shower tile as I'm able to see behind it as well.. Not sure what to do.. I contacted another contractor who stated it would be 10-20k to redo the job. I wasn't sure if I could cover their floor tile and tile myself with a proper pitch to fix it? I have no idea what to do and a 10-15k job is now going to cost like 30k if I have to a pay a second contractor to redo the work of the first one who still hasn't finished.
Make a guidline on the outside edge with a center mark and trowel the thinset then you just have to line up the outside edge and the mark and drop the sheet
*edit
This way you can run the membrane up the wall easier also
Yes im still watching atm lol
I still like the bruce jenner method of installing pan membranes better. IYKYK
The tuck
The Tile Redi system is so expensive!
The correct term is "linear foot." This term is used to measure length in a straight line. For example, if you are measuring the length of a piece of lumber, you would measure it in linear feet.
"Lineal" is a term typically used in genealogical contexts to refer to direct descent or ancestry, such as in "lineal descendants."
Therefore, when measuring length, "linear foot" is the appropriate term to use.
Actually, both terms are correct and interchangeable, at least here in the US.
Go kirk!
S ubbed and liked, Thanks
9:45 Please, do not ever let your tail come out.
Its pretty much the same as schulter.
Im surprised you haven't came out with your own products yet Isaac. You can have a manufacturer OEM all of that stuff for you and keep the money in your pocket. Just sayin! You work too hard not to havw your own brand. Why give all your money away to the companies that have 1500% markups? Lol
To each their own !
Pretty sure if he would like to have his own product he would done it.
He’s an artist, a tile / shower installer and that’s what he love. I don’t see why going in a business already full of different good options and have less time to do what you love.. He probably have good discount for showing up on his channel too!
Just my 2 cents
TH-camrs making their own products usually results in terrible products.
@@mikedelmonte255 100% to each their own. You would absolutely make a ton more if you had OEM make your product. I won't share what i fully know, but Im in business to make money and one day not have to set tile either...can only make so much just installing.
@@MAGAMAN the difference is he isn't a youtuber..and he wouldn't be "making" anything. That's what a manufacturer is for 😂...I can clearly see Im on a different level business wise as practically everyone that sets tile. Lessen my competition by a long shot, no problem with that!
Linear* foot ... lineal is for ancestry
Got nothing but hate from this channels viewers. Wow