Bro you're a good man. I don't mind supporting someone like you. You deserve it for many reasons and you actually contribute greatly to humanity. I hope you become a multi trillionair.
You are 100% correct with the positive self-talk, when you realize the Lisle tool doesn't work for re-installation. This channel is like reality TV except with integrity, humor, and authenticity.
You by far the best on you tube.. I have a e39 530i Dec 2003..i like the e39 more then the e46 because the engine bay has more room to work on but I still think you are the best to watch cause the engines are simular and you explane everything so calmly and precise
Possibly cut and Glue 3 x uprights for your home valve spring tool. So glad you are doing this work and giving everyone the benefit of your serious apt and altruism. Big fan....
another good video .a good tip when replacing the valve collets is to have a thin flatbladed screwdriver and grease small amount of grease on the inside of collet and on flat blade of screwdriver so collets sticks to screwdriver and then just place collet on valve stem and it will stay there ...magic .....never lost a collet doing it this way
Love the spring compressor idea, i have seen other tools but your idea is by far the best i've seen. All you need to do i weld all three pieces together.
Great home-made tool to get the keepers on....and off, really. I would plug the oil return holes to be safe. Pretty cavalier with those keepers around that engine. You drop one of those keepers in a return hole and you have, in a split second, created all sorts of trouble for yourself. Love the videos! Be careful and keep up the great work!!!
For anyone curious , I made the 3 pieces using thickness 5.12 MM metal , the height of the piece that gets sandwiched between the other two pieces is 55.70 MM. Fyi
Scary watching those vise grips on that valve stem seal. I work on safety relief valves which of course is a complete different animal but a bent stem is a bad day. And I imagine a galled stem is even worse on an engine. Good video though lots of great info.
I know this is 7 years old now but I just ran across it while searching for how-to videos on doing the same on my N55 engine (2012 X5 E70). I have high oil consumption and exhaust smoke after the engine is hot, then off and on every few minutes after. Sounds like valve stem seals are a strong suspect. Anyhoo - great video and your patience is something I strive for. If I'm you in that video, I'm dropping f-bombs all throughout.😄 It's interesting though, that I can't find one single video on replacing valve stem seals on an N55 but I'm guessing it's pretty close to what you're showing here.
I think it will work with this tool on my M52B25 as well. Very clever to use the bolts for the camshaft to actually push it down. Nice job! Other tools always require a hand to kinda push the spring down. Now i only need to find out how to get cylinder timing correct afterwards.
Already watched the removal one :) but now i am wondering if i can remove the camshaft without touching the timing by just loosening those 3 nuts that attach each camshaft to its chain wheel. Oh it's too late here in Germany for those things :D
Good Day 🌈🚗🌄 Mate I'm really lost with words as you have been so compassionate in sharing innovative findings with hard toil ( shortcuts) to others in good thoughts- thank you 🙏 . Some Mechanic's here in Brisbane love to see the poor car owners suffer without knowing the problem they exaggerate it / blow it to show its a mighty job to milk the money . They don't realise not every one owns a BMW is Loaded .... so right now I'm engaged in two projects . 1. Fixing the E46 BLUE SMOKE ISSUE & E30 just to start the Engine as it's been idling for 6 years. Then panel beating paint touch up and dispose both ..so as a matter of gratitude just wondering whether I could buy the valve stem set from you or recommend supplier for the E46 thanks . Cheers Milan
Yep it's definitely a valid way to keep them up. The reason I chose to use the rope is because not everybody has an air compressor AND a compression tester with the hose that screws into the spark plug hole (which you'd have to take the valve core out of with a valve core removal tool) but everyone can buy a length of rope from the hardware store. I suppose I should have shown both.
homemade spring compressor tool improvement idea: instead of using the vertical center piece of metal, drill and tap the center of the top metal piece and use a bolt to compress the bottom piece.
Too bad I saw this video too late, tried with the same kind of tool and ran into same problem. That being said, luckily it is very easy to make a tool to do it just like you did in the end. Small tip for others, if you use hammer trick with the magentic stick to take off the keepers, make sure you don't hit the keepers or the valve stem with the magnet. That thing breaks pretty easily. Nothing like trying to clean up all the magnetic pieces from the valve body after....
Thanks man! Proper.. Are you going to vid the process of cleaning the head, and I'm sure you're contemplating a head skim and valve re-con, re-bore? Covering your visit to the machine shop would be great. Having the correct tools for the job is the way to go!
Yeah I'm doing all that. I will see if I can do some kind of videoing at the machine shop. I'm contemplating going to a shop that is an hour away because the owner actually does youtube videos himself (fiatnutz channel) and looks to be a very competent shop but I'm also thinking he's probably more expensive. I need to do some shopping and I really need to finish up filming all the videos on the parts that I need to film before they go to the machine shop. I am nearly done.
Your videos are awesome. The high definition of up close is so great. I love it. I'm looking to free one of my motorcycle intake rusty valve. I bought the valve compressor tool but like your car, my motorcycle valves are recessed all the way and there is no room for the clamp to fit. It looks like I'm going to make a custom valve compressor just like yours which is easy to cut with cut wheel. I'm working on 85 Honda VF1000R (V4 engine) that very rusty intake valves and i flushed a lot of rust by flushing MMO down the intake and cranking and letting the dirty flush came out from the spark plug holes. Should i be worried of the rust damage to cylinder sleeve smooth surface while cranking or possible running it in the future? Can engine flush help remove more rust? I just don't want to pull the heads So my plan: I'm going to get some thick metal pieces at home depot and fabricate one like yours tomorrow. I'm so excite to get this bike started again as soon as I can free this intake valve (could be bent too who knows). I'm all dropping the rope inside the cylinder as much as i can via spark plug hole because I already have just 1 camshaft of that cylinder out but I would like to keep it in time. I marked the cam gear with mechanic chalk to put back later. Therefore, I can't rotate the piston to compression the rope to up the valve up. I do have side access to the valve via the carbs manifold I might be able to insert a strong magnetic pick up tool just to keep the valve from dropping down into the combustion chamber. What do you recommend? Thank you for helping.
Hello, I was able to do it by hand from one of these guy up here using a deep socket to unseat the spring tension and reinstalled with the same socket with a small plastic piece inside the socket while pressing down hard to compress the spring and seat the valve keeps inside the stem's groove. But I still get low compression for 1 cylinder that the rusty valve after spraying carb cleaner and wd40 and turning the seat again the seat with my drill screw driver attached to a hose to the stem. I don't know if you could have bent the valve while cranking the bike to check for compression days before. I'm going to bite the bullet and install the carbs then start the bike to see if it would fix itself in the process. I will in MMO oil in the gas and ride it a little at low RPM. The bike have been parked for 20 some years. Thank you. If i won't improve i would just pull the head ! THanks
brother i just looked at all the other people that you have helped. now go get a patent license for that tool. it will run you about $5000 and you can get it registered immediately for the first year while the process is going on. pitch it to the affordable auto shops which most of your subscribers use. it looks like there are 118 customers right here, right now. i pray for your health and prosperity.
Thanks for the vid! Perhaps 0.5" square tubing would be safer for the vertical piece of custom compressor tool. Also maybe it's possible to check valve guide clearance if you drop the piston a little bit?
Yeah I like your idea about the square tubing. If you have the means to cut it squarely, ya know? I don't think you'll be able to check valve guide clearance that way really because the area that sticks up is the "wear" area, except for just a 1/4" below the keeper grooves. Coming up in a video I will show how I do check the clearance from the other side once the head is out.
Seems like to install you would have to really push that tool down a lot harder than you were. But we didn’t see what you tried off camera either. I’m trying to choose a tool myself.
i like the improve tool nice idea i just bought a e 46 and its consuming oil and smokes blue, the guy that sells me the car had the valve stem seals in the trunk but he wasnt sure that was the issue, i was thinking in changin the pcv valve first then if the car remain with the issue then replace them but the car has 279,xxx miles so i think i'll have to replace them anyways
Be SUPER CAREFUL when removing valve stem seals, and DO NOT use vise grips!! Mine were stuck on tight, and in the process of getting them off, I deformed almost all of the valve guides because they're a soft metal. Now most of my valves are binding in the guide, and I've got to get a new head, or have new guides installed.
How do you know if your seals are bad? I get white smoke on idle since the cold weather even when the cars up to temperature. But the smoke only starts when the engine gets hot. Doesn’t smoke at all from cold start.
am also working on replacing valve seals of my m54 only which is best way with a rope or with air pressure and how much pressure should there be in the cylinder if I do with air pressure
Old video I know, but do you have any experience with forte seal conditioner? It's only available in the UK or on ebay for $50 which is a little steep unless it works.
Actually someone did do this video, just before yours came out. Goes to show you that there are multiple ways to think out of the box and be creative. However in both you video and the other, I am surprised neither use tape or paper shop towels to block all portal access in to the engine.
There are just the 5 oil drain ports and if you're careful you should be fine. If particles do drop in they'll hit the oil filter before the bearings but of course you don't want them to go through the oil pump in the first place.
Why do you need a rope in the cylinder to keep up the valve? If you just put the cylinder at TDC, the piston goes all the way to the top of the block and should prevent the valve from dropping.
Hello I have problem but I don't have blue smoke but mine burns oil.I did a tune up and plugs were soaked with oil ,and recently I put in a new vcg ,any ideas what it could be
hmm there are alot of 350zs and g35s for sale for like 2 grand cheaper because of this and it doesnt seem to hard but my dad is telling its a real pain. this doesnt seem to hard though.
It really isn't hard, but every car is going to be different. There are different tools available for compressing the valve retainers. Harbor Freight carries a cheapo one that clamps over the sides of the spring and screws down. Search for "valve spring compressor tool kit" -- another style of tool comes up. Make sure you have a good strategy for compressing the springs before you take them apart. I would say, if you can use the tool to compress the spring and get the keepers out, then you can use it to get them back in. With the exception of the tool I used to remove the retainers in this video.
JWT make a tool for our engine: www.z1motorsports.com/engine-parts/jwt/jwt-valve-spring-compressor-p-7040.html Video on youtube showing how to use it, as well as a PDF. www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VQ_SPRING_REMOVER_INST.pdf Also don't forget the timing chain removal on our engine is a bit of a pain, once again, plenty of vids showing how to remove/install.
Hi Man! My M54B25 have high oil consumption. The compression is OK! The engine eat 1 liter oil on 300km. I changed the CCV, but the oil consumption stays. No oil leaks! Maybe my engine have Valve stem seals problem? Thanks!
thank you VERY much. I'm going through the same process. Not sure if discussed before, but are we putting unnecessary stress on the studs when using them for this type of application? In other words, are we stress/pulling them out of the aluminum head? I wish I could make a tool like this. Thanks again!
Yes I would have to say you are putting unnecessary stress on the bolts but I do believe it should be fine. You can make a tool like this with a hacksaw and some drill bits.
How strong are the springs ? Are they strong enough to get the small keepers flying if your compressing tool will skip ? In this case you shouldn ' t use your fingers to put them in I think
Hi mate I've got same bmw and i found the spark plugs head swimming in oil the compression is good on each cylinder can be the seal valves stem the problem?
Good job mate, clear vid and well explained. I am doing at the mmt vacum leak problem according to your vid smoke mashine, works nicely! Have you encountered an error code (Peak) 2777 DME: selftest: AD:converter by any chance?
50sKid This will definitelly get me commited to mental institution. After about 100km the light comes on and now it gives me code 2777,2882,2883 did a smoke test again and there is no leak! that i am sure of:)) Could it be an inferiror MAF that I got form ebay? Ts the only thing I can think of. Any thoughts? Thnx.
My car 🚗 BMW X5 4.8is model number 2005 the problem is while on starting the Engine start but the same is low battery and then while on off the Engine and then start but won't start
Hey do you know anything about n52 engine? I want to replace the valve stem seals, and so far from all the info available online I would be able to remove exhaust camshaft to get access to exhaust valve seals, but the intake side is tricky because there's a lot of retaining springs, plates and the camshaft tray is cast with the head, in the repair manual a lot of special tools are used to remove the intake side so I'm confused...
Dear 50skid: I got chain noise and chain timing problem at my E46 316i with N42B18A engine. It doesn't react to anything when I take valvetronic or solenoid cable off. Only it makes lots of noise like it's a bad diesel engine. When I start engine I hear chain clearly laud and clear noising and after 2 min engine shaking a lot and go out. What is the problem and how to fix please help.
I had what sounds like the same issue on my E53 X5 with M54 engine. Not sure if this will work for the N42B18A. I rebuilt the vanos, still had the same noise, then reset the timing and finally the noise went away.
Bro you're a good man. I don't mind supporting someone like you. You deserve it for many reasons and you actually contribute greatly to humanity. I hope you become a multi trillionair.
It's a fact, making your own tools is just part of being smart with mechanical repairs. Great stuff as usual 50's Kid.
You are 100% correct with the positive self-talk, when you realize the Lisle tool doesn't work for re-installation. This channel is like reality TV except with integrity, humor, and authenticity.
Very kind of you to say!
You by far the best on you tube.. I have a e39 530i Dec 2003..i like the e39 more then the e46 because the engine bay has more room to work on but I still think you are the best to watch cause the engines are simular and you explane everything so calmly and precise
Possibly cut and Glue 3 x uprights for your home valve spring tool. So glad you are doing this work and giving everyone the benefit of your serious apt and altruism. Big fan....
another good video .a good tip when replacing the valve collets is to have a thin flatbladed screwdriver and grease
small amount of grease on the inside of collet and on flat blade of screwdriver so collets sticks to screwdriver and then just place collet on valve stem and it will stay there ...magic .....never lost a collet doing it this way
Modern problems require modern solutions. True mechanic moment
you have saved me thousands of dollars and hours of frustration with your videos, thank you so much brother. power on my friend.
Great video, and brilliant idea for the home made spring compressor! I am loving this series. Can't wait for the next one. Keep up the great work.
Love the spring compressor idea, i have seen other tools but your idea is by far the best i've seen. All you need to do i weld all three pieces together.
Love the out-of-box thinking on this tool. Definitely adaptable to other applications and can be made on demand. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
You are my hero! I actually still have (and plan to keep “forever”) my E46 because of your videos. 👍🏾
Great home-made tool to get the keepers on....and off, really. I would plug the oil return holes to be safe. Pretty cavalier with those keepers around that engine. You drop one of those keepers in a return hole and you have, in a split second, created all sorts of trouble for yourself. Love the videos! Be careful and keep up the great work!!!
For anyone curious , I made the 3 pieces using thickness 5.12 MM metal , the height of the piece that gets sandwiched between the other two pieces is 55.70 MM. Fyi
Do u have the measurements for the pieces?
Thank You so much for your videos. I really liked your valve spring compression tool and will use your idea when i do my son's car this weekend.
Nice use of the spare parts to compress the springs for the retainers :)
so creative. That home made spring compress. u are a genius.
Scary watching those vise grips on that valve stem seal. I work on safety relief valves which of course is a complete different animal but a bent stem is a bad day. And I imagine a galled stem is even worse on an engine. Good video though lots of great info.
Thanks Jason. I will definitely try this, been having some blue smoke and wanted to tear down the head gasket again.
I know this is 7 years old now but I just ran across it while searching for how-to videos on doing the same on my N55 engine (2012 X5 E70).
I have high oil consumption and exhaust smoke after the engine is hot, then off and on every few minutes after. Sounds like valve stem seals are a strong suspect.
Anyhoo - great video and your patience is something I strive for. If I'm you in that video, I'm dropping f-bombs all throughout.😄
It's interesting though, that I can't find one single video on replacing valve stem seals on an N55 but I'm guessing it's pretty close to what you're showing here.
I think it will work with this tool on my M52B25 as well. Very clever to use the bolts for the camshaft to actually push it down. Nice job! Other tools always require a hand to kinda push the spring down. Now i only need to find out how to get cylinder timing correct afterwards.
I have a timing video, just search my page.
Already watched the removal one :) but now i am wondering if i can remove the camshaft without touching the timing by just loosening those 3 nuts that attach each camshaft to its chain wheel. Oh it's too late here in Germany for those things :D
No you can't, you need the timing tools.
awesome job on the improvised tool at the end. I made one using an old C-clamp on a past build once. thumbs up!
you are a great man don't know what to say keep it up !
thank you
Very clever trick.Congratulations.
You give me instructions for similar constructions.Εύγε.
nice idea with coming up with that tool. For my Honda engine street rays makes a very nice valve spring compressor tool. good work.
I just got done watching a video of two guys that did this exact job about two years before your video 🤷🏼♂️
Cool. Should I just take down my video then?
@@50sKid 🙄
link ?
Good Day 🌈🚗🌄
Mate I'm really lost with words as you have been so compassionate in sharing innovative findings with hard toil ( shortcuts) to others in good thoughts- thank you 🙏 . Some Mechanic's here in Brisbane love to see the poor car owners suffer without knowing the problem they exaggerate it / blow it to show its a mighty job to milk the money . They don't realise not every one owns a BMW is Loaded .... so right now I'm engaged in two projects . 1. Fixing the E46 BLUE SMOKE ISSUE & E30 just to start the Engine as it's been idling for 6 years. Then panel beating paint touch up and dispose both ..so as a matter of gratitude just wondering whether I could buy the valve stem set from you or recommend supplier for the E46 thanks . Cheers Milan
Nice job man, this video’s really helpful
Hello. Your Tool is Great. To push The valve up, Use Compressed air. Is much better and comfortable.
Yep it's definitely a valid way to keep them up. The reason I chose to use the rope is because not everybody has an air compressor AND a compression tester with the hose that screws into the spark plug hole (which you'd have to take the valve core out of with a valve core removal tool) but everyone can buy a length of rope from the hardware store. I suppose I should have shown both.
Very handy tool you’ve made,👍👍
Great tool you made there. Keep up the good work.
this is the video I was looking for :D
You can remove the seals off easily with a torx nut. Just pick one that fits the metal part and tap it in with a hammer. Then twist it right off.
Great video. Well done with the tool you made.
homemade spring compressor tool improvement idea: instead of using the vertical center piece of metal, drill and tap the center of the top metal piece and use a bolt to compress the bottom piece.
Great video, keep up the good work. Thank you.
Too bad I saw this video too late, tried with the same kind of tool and ran into same problem.
That being said, luckily it is very easy to make a tool to do it just like you did in the end.
Small tip for others, if you use hammer trick with the magentic stick to take off the keepers, make sure you don't hit the keepers or the valve stem with the magnet. That thing breaks pretty easily. Nothing like trying to clean up all the magnetic pieces from the valve body after....
Awesome job. The 50's Kid deliver once again. Thanks!
Amazing, love the diy compressor 10/10. Guessing this method would be the same on m50 & m52?
Yeah exactly the same.
I give it a 20/10! Exceptional and very creative!
I guess in this trade, you have to be.
Could you post the dimensions of the tool sections? I think this is fantastic!
Thanks man! Proper.. Are you going to vid the process of cleaning the head, and I'm sure you're contemplating a head skim and valve re-con, re-bore? Covering your visit to the machine shop would be great. Having the correct tools for the job is the way to go!
Yeah I'm doing all that. I will see if I can do some kind of videoing at the machine shop. I'm contemplating going to a shop that is an hour away because the owner actually does youtube videos himself (fiatnutz channel) and looks to be a very competent shop but I'm also thinking he's probably more expensive. I need to do some shopping and I really need to finish up filming all the videos on the parts that I need to film before they go to the machine shop. I am nearly done.
Thanks for the video man 👊🏼
Your videos are awesome. The high definition of up close is so great. I love it. I'm looking to free one of my motorcycle intake rusty valve. I bought the valve compressor tool but like your car, my motorcycle valves are recessed all the way and there is no room for the clamp to fit. It looks like I'm going to make a custom valve compressor just like yours which is easy to cut with cut wheel. I'm working on 85 Honda VF1000R (V4 engine) that very rusty intake valves and i flushed a lot of rust by flushing MMO down the intake and cranking and letting the dirty flush came out from the spark plug holes. Should i be worried of the rust damage to cylinder sleeve smooth surface while cranking or possible running it in the future? Can engine flush help remove more rust? I just don't want to pull the heads
So my plan: I'm going to get some thick metal pieces at home depot and fabricate one like yours tomorrow. I'm so excite to get this bike started again as soon as I can free this intake valve (could be bent too who knows).
I'm all dropping the rope inside the cylinder as much as i can via spark plug hole because I already have just 1 camshaft of that cylinder out but I would like to keep it in time. I marked the cam gear with mechanic chalk to put back later. Therefore, I can't rotate the piston to compression the rope to up the valve up. I do have side access to the valve via the carbs manifold I might be able to insert a strong magnetic pick up tool just to keep the valve from dropping down into the combustion chamber. What do you recommend? Thank you for helping.
Hello, I was able to do it by hand from one of these guy up here using a deep socket to unseat the spring tension and reinstalled with the same socket with a small plastic piece inside the socket while pressing down hard to compress the spring and seat the valve keeps inside the stem's groove. But I still get low compression for 1 cylinder that the rusty valve after spraying carb cleaner and wd40 and turning the seat again the seat with my drill screw driver attached to a hose to the stem. I don't know if you could have bent the valve while cranking the bike to check for compression days before. I'm going to bite the bullet and install the carbs then start the bike to see if it would fix itself in the process. I will in MMO oil in the gas and ride it a little at low RPM. The bike have been parked for 20 some years. Thank you. If i won't improve i would just pull the head ! THanks
Should use a valve cover on the valve ,that usually come with the new seal,before put the seal on,if not may damage the seal !
brother i just looked at all the other people that you have helped. now go get a patent license for that tool. it will run you about $5000 and you can get it registered immediately for the first year while the process is going on. pitch it to the affordable auto shops which most of your subscribers use. it looks like there are 118 customers right here, right now. i pray for your health and prosperity.
The keepers are known as Collets !
Nice piece of tool u made there
Very cleaver tool, I have seen a guy from South Africa having made the same tool as well on TH-cam.
Thanks for the vid! Perhaps 0.5" square tubing would be safer for the vertical piece of custom compressor tool. Also maybe it's possible to check valve guide clearance if you drop the piston a little bit?
Yeah I like your idea about the square tubing. If you have the means to cut it squarely, ya know? I don't think you'll be able to check valve guide clearance that way really because the area that sticks up is the "wear" area, except for just a 1/4" below the keeper grooves. Coming up in a video I will show how I do check the clearance from the other side once the head is out.
Seems like to install you would have to really push that tool down a lot harder than you were. But we didn’t see what you tried off camera either. I’m trying to choose a tool myself.
i like the improve tool nice idea i just bought a e 46 and its consuming oil and smokes blue, the guy that sells me the car had the valve stem seals in the trunk but he wasnt sure that was the issue, i was thinking in changin the pcv valve first then if the car remain with the issue then replace them but the car has 279,xxx miles so i think i'll have to replace them anyways
i have a video about the oil consumption
50sKid i saw the video im goin to try the valve in the hose that goes to the oil level stick thanks youre videos are very helpfull
Would an oil-fouled valve-train/head interior be a symptom of faulty valve seals?
Be SUPER CAREFUL when removing valve stem seals, and DO NOT use vise grips!! Mine were stuck on tight, and in the process of getting them off, I deformed almost all of the valve guides because they're a soft metal. Now most of my valves are binding in the guide, and I've got to get a new head, or have new guides installed.
Ouch
so smart great work
Hi mate did your car stoped smoking after replacement of valve steam seals?
Can you do this job without the fan is and timing removed,just the valve cover?
Ask yourself this. "How do you access the valve springs?".. They are under the camshafts, which are attached to timing gears.
Can you link me to the video of you removing the camshafts
Is it possible to clean and grind the valves while at it..without disasembling the engine head ?
How do you know if your seals are bad? I get white smoke on idle since the cold weather even when the cars up to temperature. But the smoke only starts when the engine gets hot. Doesn’t smoke at all from cold start.
am also working on replacing valve seals of my m54 only which is best way with a rope or with air pressure
and how much pressure should there be in the cylinder if I do with air pressure
Just thinking, with the amount stripped out would it not be worth just removing the head and putting a new gasket on it?
Old video I know, but do you have any experience with forte seal conditioner? It's only available in the UK or on ebay for $50 which is a little steep unless it works.
Genius!
Great 👍🏼 job
Actually someone did do this video, just before yours came out. Goes to show you that there are multiple ways to think out of the box and be creative. However in both you video and the other, I am surprised neither use tape or paper shop towels to block all portal access in to the engine.
There are just the 5 oil drain ports and if you're careful you should be fine. If particles do drop in they'll hit the oil filter before the bearings but of course you don't want them to go through the oil pump in the first place.
Instead using a nylon rope in order to keep the valve closed - I used zip tie :)
isnt it worth checking the valve guides for play?
Why do you need a rope in the cylinder to keep up the valve? If you just put the cylinder at TDC, the piston goes all the way to the top of the block and should prevent the valve from dropping.
I thought the same too...do one at a time ..make sure the one being worked on has piston at its highest
Most impressive.
Maybe one day you can buy a e39 M5 and do a whole new series to help me learn wrenching on it? (Kidding)
Great job.
Some day lol
That rope trick would work same way on n46b20 engine? I don’t have air compressor :(
Since this is an interference engine, won't valve damage possibly occur if the engine is turned without the chains connected?
I believe I have a burnt valve is this what I do to fix it
Hello I have problem but I don't have blue smoke but mine burns oil.I did a tune up and plugs were soaked with oil ,and recently I put in a new vcg ,any ideas what it could be
How did you release The seize? On valve stems?
hmm there are alot of 350zs and g35s for sale for like 2 grand cheaper because of this and it doesnt seem to hard but my dad is telling its a real pain. this doesnt seem to hard though.
It really isn't hard, but every car is going to be different. There are different tools available for compressing the valve retainers. Harbor Freight carries a cheapo one that clamps over the sides of the spring and screws down. Search for "valve spring compressor tool kit" -- another style of tool comes up. Make sure you have a good strategy for compressing the springs before you take them apart. I would say, if you can use the tool to compress the spring and get the keepers out, then you can use it to get them back in. With the exception of the tool I used to remove the retainers in this video.
50sKid so you're saying finding a tool to compress the springs is the hardest part?
Yep, exactly. Everything else is straightforward.
JWT make a tool for our engine:
www.z1motorsports.com/engine-parts/jwt/jwt-valve-spring-compressor-p-7040.html
Video on youtube showing how to use it, as well as a PDF.
www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VQ_SPRING_REMOVER_INST.pdf
Also don't forget the timing chain removal on our engine is a bit of a pain, once again, plenty of vids showing how to remove/install.
Hi Man!
My M54B25 have high oil consumption. The compression is OK! The engine eat 1 liter oil on 300km. I changed the CCV, but the oil consumption stays. No oil leaks! Maybe my engine have Valve stem seals problem? Thanks!
thank you VERY much. I'm going through the same process. Not sure if discussed before, but are we putting unnecessary stress on the studs when using them for this type of application? In other words, are we stress/pulling them out of the aluminum head?
I wish I could make a tool like this. Thanks again!
Yes I would have to say you are putting unnecessary stress on the bolts but I do believe it should be fine. You can make a tool like this with a hacksaw and some drill bits.
How did you make the guide on that tool that you made .. and how did you put the Rope on
Probably wouldn't use vice grips to pull the seal.. could bend the stem. A little sketchy.
I'll say....WOW!
How strong are the springs ? Are they strong enough to get the small keepers flying if your compressing tool will skip ? In this case you shouldn ' t use your fingers to put them in I think
Yes they are that strong
if you take the cams off do you have to retime it?
Better go get a patent before someone else makes a fortune off your idea just saying great work keep em coming
Hi mate I've got same bmw and i found the spark plugs head swimming in oil the compression is good on each cylinder can be the seal valves stem the problem?
Good job mate, clear vid and well explained. I am doing at the mmt vacum leak problem according to your vid smoke mashine, works nicely! Have you encountered an error code (Peak) 2777 DME: selftest: AD:converter by any chance?
I've never seen that error but it seems like it might be a problem with your reader connecting to the computer.
50sKid This will definitelly get me commited to mental institution. After about 100km the light comes on and now it gives me code 2777,2882,2883 did a smoke test again and there is no leak! that i am sure of:)) Could it be an inferiror MAF that I got form ebay? Ts the only thing I can think of. Any thoughts? Thnx.
Yeah that is definitely your problem. Never use an eBay MAF--they use a cheap resistor and not expensive platinum wire. Only use a Siemens unit.
50sKid Shall order one today, as grandpa said:' you ain't that rich to buy cheap shit things" :) Thanks and enjoy the break!
My car 🚗 BMW X5 4.8is model number 2005 the problem is while on starting the Engine start but the same is low battery and then while on off the Engine and then start but won't start
I have a Bmw m550d diesel My Car consumes Oil 3000km 6dl its n57d30c engine Could it be valve stem seals ? Or Crank case Breather?
Hey do you know anything about n52 engine? I want to replace the valve stem seals, and so far from all the info available online I would be able to remove exhaust camshaft to get access to exhaust valve seals, but the intake side is tricky because there's a lot of retaining springs, plates and the camshaft tray is cast with the head, in the repair manual a lot of special tools are used to remove the intake side so I'm confused...
My BMW X5 4.8is model 2005 the problem is while on the Engine running coming smoke pls answer my. Comment on what we do thanks
Edd Baloja Baloja did you fix it if so how
Dear 50skid: I got chain noise and chain timing problem at my E46 316i with N42B18A engine. It doesn't react to anything when I take valvetronic or solenoid cable off. Only it makes lots of noise like it's a bad diesel engine. When I start engine I hear chain clearly laud and clear noising and after 2 min engine shaking a lot and go out. What is the problem and how to fix please help.
I had what sounds like the same issue on my E53 X5 with M54 engine. Not sure if this will work for the N42B18A. I rebuilt the vanos, still had the same noise, then reset the timing and finally the noise went away.
Awesome video man thanks! Curious though as to why you decided to replace these seals, was there a particular reason or any signs they could be worn?
jefftc14 you might as well replace all you can at this point
very true
Yeah exactly anything made out of rubber, just replace it. They're so cheap.
Goodson has valve tools.
thats great idea
I was wondering why turning the engine wasn't smashing the pistons into the valves... and then I remembered that the camshafts weren't in there🤣.
I've got the same engine. Where did you get the valve stem seals? Do you have a part number and/or the link? Thanks so much and great job man!!
Fcpeuro.com
What size rope diameter?
Hot tank?
Which Valve seals would you recommend off eBay?
Farid SP victor reinz
@@Theoriginalmichaelmiachel thank you
what u think it is
you're a fucking genius