pedestal mount roller rockers for an 87-93 ford 5.0 302 engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- How to set valve lash and lifter preload on pedestal mount roller rocker arms for an 87-93 ford mustang 5.0 302 engine. Ford Racing shims are .0195 and .0380 not .030 and .060. Hope this helps.
Very easy to understand. I have watched many videos and got confused, as it seems that some people just don't explain it simple enough for us doing this for the first time. Well done!!!
One thing that you may have forgot to mention is: Remember to torque each roller rocker at the base lobe of the cam (bottom).
Wow best explanation I have heard yet, thank you
That was a great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain it fully. I took notes and I can't wait to make my adjustments.
Just wanted to let you know appreciate the video I'm actually doing mine right now. Excellent video thank you
Nice video, Michael. Like you I've found that the shims will vary in thickness. Ford Racing and other manufacturers alike. I've also found some non-Ford shims to have high spots on the shim's edges and around the bolt hole from where manufacturing tolerances were less than desirable. In this case I've had to run the shims along a fine toothed file to make them completely flat. This will obviously have an effect on the shim's thickness, so I always measure them after dressing them with a file.
Great video! Never heard it explained like that. Thank you!
This was sooo helpful. I am planning my first engine build very soon and this gave me the info i needed. Thanks!!
Your welcome John. Glad the video was helpful, that engine was a really great build.
Finally. An informative video. Thank you. Awesome job
Thanks Mike! Needed this confirmation
I am assuming your engine does not have roller lifters in it. If I recall, roller lifters/rockers dont require any adjustment.
I am not sure, he has the retainer lock still in the valley but not sure I see retainers on the lifters.
I need .001 to win a championship. Every engine I build goes out the door with the best opportunity ride on the edge of explosion and keep it together. My father raced a 1974 Impala. The giant boat. He taught me to squeeze every ounce of power out of an engine. Winning and losing is a matter of engineering. Imagine if the person who built your engine cared about every aspect of making that motor the most powerful and sturdy piece of equipment you will ever own. Apples to apples we win not just some time, every time. .001 thats what separates a participation trophy and a champion. We choose to win.
All hydralic lifters need pre load
Thanks, I am going to be finishing the motor this spring. I hope to post the dyno run sometime in may.
So pretty much find TDC for each cylinder your doing. Finger tighten the pedestal rocker until you can't turn the pushrod. Than torque the rocker but pay attention to how far around the torque wrench goes to get to the needed torque. If you make one whole revolution, you need to shim that rocker until it only makes 3/4 a revolution to torque.
Torque wrench should reach torque spec by half to three quarters turn and you will be all set.
If you take your measured shim thickness and multiply them by the rocker ratio then the measurement at the roller tip will be .030" and .060".
Very informative video. I have a question that I hope you can answer. Do I measure for pushrod length before I do the lifter pre load adjustment? It seems to me that adding shims under pedestal mounts would affect valvetrain geometry and hence pushrod length. I have upgraded heads, cam and roller rockers on my stock block and just want to make sure I am doing this right. Thanks!!
Very nice video well explained. I have a set of gt40p heads with pedestal rockers and wanted to know if I have to put the shim first if needed before I check the pushrod length?
Great video! Very informative! Nicely done!
Good solid info,I appreciate it!Helped me out for sure!
Great info, thanks for the video. Have the person holding the phone turn it sideways so we're not looking at a narrow video!
Rat Fink
Thanks Rat Fink. I was using my work iPhone but now I have a much better camera. When I hit the track in April I will make sure the video is full screen. I got a set of 373s for the car, the 410s in it are a little strong. I will post a video of the conversion when I get a free weekend to get it done.
Damn wish I would have seen this video last week. Think ima pull my valve covers off and do it all over again. All mine hit 20ft lbs of tq before a full turn and I called it good but some were a1/4 turn some were a full 1 turn and some were half a turn. Didn’t really think about shimming them to make them all the same.
Really great video! Whats the procedure for the stock rockers on the E7TE Heads? Any info on that is greatly appreciated.
Same thing
What set of heads and rocker arms did you use on your engine and did you get the results you were looking for. Excellent job on the video 👍
Thank you. I used Ford Racing heads that I purchased at Summit Racing with Ford SVO rockers. It was an awesome combination with the E303 cam. I wanted it to be as much power as the stock computer could handle without having issues. The guys at Ford Racing were great and answered all my questions when I wanted information about the combination. The things I would have done different with the car would have been having the computer chipped to take advantage of the mods and the 4:10 rear end. 3:73s would have made it more street friendly, but light to light that car was a beast.
Hello there! Love the vid,gotta question,Trying to detirmine pr length on a stock 1989 302(mustang 5.0) roller with e7 stock heads Im trying to install a scorpion 1.6 pedistol roller rolcker and Im trying to use a fresh new (dry not pumped) hydralic roller lifer to read my sweep marks using 6.250 pr they all took shims.All 16 vavles so my questio is should I be using these dry lifters or should I be using a hydralic used roller lifter I converted over to be solid.I took out spring and flipped the inside around and now when I use the same pr after I tourqe the rockers to 18flbs they are very tight!The pr wont rotate at all but when I use the dry lifters I get good sweeps good preload they hit between 1/4 and 1/2 and when I rotate the pr in my fingers they have some resistance not too loose not too tight so should I be using the dry hydralic roller lifters to check ps length or the hydralic roller lifter coverted over too solid?Also using the stock springs not the light springs please help I have seen lots of vids and they are not to par.
NEVER pump or " prime" a hydraulic pushrod. Because the preload and lash is designed to be done on a dry lifter. Having shims is normal for aftermarket because tolerances vary. In regards to the springs, As long as your total lift is below about .500 stock springs are fine. Otherwise they will likely float as they will fully seat and not be able to open to make lift. So make sure to check that calculation.
Hi sir i fallow your instructions to install my scorpions rockers on the 8 cylindres i have 3 rockers not totally reach the 1/4 turn so what i have to do? Thanks
Why would it matter focusing on matching all intake and all exhaust to the same preload?
All a hydraulic lifter does is use oil pressure to maintain 0 lash as the engine wears. Unlike my ford 292 which is a solid lifter and requires lash adjustments every so many miles due to wear.
So can you explain why it makes a difference to get all valves balanced as you said when not all valves will wear equally which will throw the lash off.
Although he did not explain it, the lifter preload is what will maintain the lash as they wear. So there is no need to maintain lash on a hydraulic lifter once you set the preload properly and break in the lifters/ cam.
Milner62....You are exactly right, it does not matter. I've been building Ford V-8 engines since 1965 and can tell you for a fact that as long as "lifter preload" is within spec, you will be getting full valve lift regardless of any small discrepancies which may exist in plunger position from one lifter to another...All we are talking about here is a self adjusting lifter which once set, stays set. The only reason we are tasked with doing the initial adjustment is because if there is too much preload the valve may not seat correctly after the engine reaches operating temperature. On the other hand, too little preload will result in an annoying "tick-tick-tick" sound in the valve train. Either condition will shorten the lifespan of the effected valve train parts...And just so you'll know, "shim kits" are a poor substitute for using the correct length of push rod. Push rods for a SB Ford are available in (+) or (-) .060" sizes, and have been since it's introduction in 1962. Using shims instead of the correct push rod is mostly a cost-saving crutch, something Ford has never done on the assembly line. The torque valve mentioned in the video is solely so the fastener don't back off...Nothing really new to any of this, it's simply "hydraulic lifter 101"....Hope this helped.
Great explanation
How much spring pressure/cam lift can these pedestal rockers handle? My Edelbrock Performer head springs are rated for upto 0.575" lift.
Do liftet need to be primed with oil before adjusting valves?
Great video! Do you pump up your lifters or install them dry before doing this?
Mach1bobby , Thank you. I soaked them for a couple days in royal purple before i put them in.
Never pump lifters.
Ok threads 18 per inch, 1" ÷18 = .056 not .070 and a 1/4 turn would = .014 not .026
Does that make since? Valve adjustment to 3/4 turn vs 5/8 turn will not give you more lift or duration... those valves run a zero lash.
I need to determine what size pushrods I need for my 302, but do I figure out the pedestal mount adjustment first ?
good explanation but I'd just buy the adjustable ones and get rid of that pain in the but shim stuff...
Thanks this info was really helpful nice job.
93 f150 5.0 stock cam do you want them to all be the same exact amount of a turn to get to the recommended torque spec?
What valve covers did u use afterwards? Thanks.
Quick question. I just installed Alex Parts Max output beehive springs for gt40p heads and ford racing lifters and I'm getting light lifter noise. I'm still using stock rockers so should I still set valve lash? If so? How do I do it with the factory rockers?
Awesome. Thanks
Sounds a bit much.... When I was younger I used a valve gauge & adjusted all rockers at top distance.... Seemed to work fine on my 67 289 engine!
Guess I was a lucky one it always worked?!
Those were stud mount rockers not pedestal
Brandon it is easy to start with number one at tdc and go 1/4 turn at a time following the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order. Haynes manuals say you can do two at a time and gives the numbers of cylinders that oppose each other, but I like to stick with ford racing recommendations. Here is the link if you need it fordperformanceracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6564-All.pdf Good luck, let me know if you need anything else.
I received .020 .021 and .040 and .041.
so you set TDC for the cylinder before setting the lash than repeat 7 more times for the other cylinders?
If you are at TDC, both the intake and exhaust should be at the base lobe of the cam. Then rotate the motor until each of the roller rockers is at its base (all the way down) and repeat. Some people do them when both the intake and exhaust are at the bottom, others do one at a time (i.e. when the exhaust on that cylinder is on the way up, the intake should be at the bottom). Just confirm that each one independently are all the way at the bottom when adjusting.
do you have to shim the rocker arms, i just want to get my engine together, i realy don't want to screw around with some shims to get it to torque within a turn. does it really matter as long as you torque them down.
if they reach the torque point before the full turn you are good, if not you may not get the engine to tune correctly, and you will cheat yourself out of power or worse have a valve tap a piston. Did you ever wonder why one guys car runs great and another with the same setup doesn't, Do it right and you will be really happy with the results I promise.
+Michael Bell but what is actually physically causing it to hit the piston. if the valve isn't open when done it can only travel as far as the lift on the cam
@@TheSamplebridge he is using the example of too much lifter preload vs not having enough. AN engine is just an air pump. IF the valve does not open fully you lose power because there is less CFM being pulled into the cylinder. It will cause erratic engine wear and lack of power. If you do not want to set valve lash then just run factory rockers, torque and done. This is minimal work for a noticeable HP gain and also prolongs the life of your engine parts.
What size rocker studs are on that engine? and if they are 3/8, then what engine has the 7/16th studs.
Anthony Wayne
The stock 92 heads and ford racing heads have pedestal mounts that use a 5/16 bolt. 3/8 would be aftermarket or pre 86 non roller sbf heads. You would only need 7/16 if you are running a turbo or a blower. We have a couple of guys here running well over 600 hp turbos with stock valvetrain. If the heads your looking at are drilled for 7/16 studs be careful they have got to be machines perfectly or they will come apart in a very bad way.
Thank you very much for that prompt reply, information and nerve calming. lol =)
Will this work with tge factory rocker arms I have a 90 mustng 5.0?
Yes
Well done 😎
good. video , you forgot to tell the uneducated to half the intake and exhaust on the base circle of the cam
So at the end of the video u said u want both intake and exhaust to balance out the same. But u wrote on there 3/4 n 5/8. So does that mean that u still need to shim the intake side to make a 3/4 turn to balance out or as long as both intake and exhaust are with in 1/4-1 full turn ur r good. I imagine u will eventually have some exhaust and some intakes mixed match in turning ratios as they would not be 100% perfect. And another question I always thought for was just torque n go. What is the purpose or benefit of the extra work? Would u need to do this with a cam swap n stock rockers? Stock cam rocker swap?
It becomes a balancing act. What he did was go around and torque to spec and noted where shims were needed and how big. This helps you decide what preload to aim for. By having the same preload on all cylinders the same you ensure the highest possible HP in each cylinder. Engines are just big air pumps. So he is trying to get the exact same CFM coming in and going out on every cylinder. We should remember when you say " stock" I think of the original parts on the original engine. That lash is set at the factory and shims may have been added at the time. He is going by the recommendations for his set up. In theory you could just buy 1.6 rockers that drop right onto the factory set up torque and go and likely be fine if you make no other changes. By not doing this you are saving yourself work but leaving performance, reliability and free HP on the table by taking the shortcut. I have done it before in my last build. Just used stock rockers on a performance cam with upgraded springs and the factory pushrods and ran great. So that being said. it is by no means necessary for a daily driver kind of car.
You do not have to do all this lol