🔔 The reason that Ford is agressive with their lifter preload is that as the engine reaches operating temperature, the lifter clearance gets LARGER not less. This is normal on all engines regardless of iron or aluminum heads.
Hi, I reached out to you once before. I have a 1990 Ford bronco and the engine was swapped for same engine just rebuilt by po. I’ve always had lack of power issues since I bought it. I did a tune up(rotor, cap, plugs, wires, and coil). Since then, the whole engine shakes horribly when in drive and reverse to the point I can’t drive it. It stalls and then the only way it starts again is if I move the distributor some. I time it everytime with timing light, I’ve also had 2 other people time it and still no change in shake and everytime distributor needs to be moved to start like it falls out of time. Another thing worth nothing, it only starts when the distributor is off angle of the factory placement. When I line it up with bolt like it says in manual, it will not start, then when I put it a little more with icm pointing to the left it starts. What would you check first? Thanks
Do you think that the 289 was a more soild and dependable engine then the 5.0. I'm not dissing the 5.0 I've got 397000 miles on mine in a 86 crown Vic. Drive it Daly. I know a lot of improvement can be done on a 5.0 also. My 289 high performance stock in my 66 mustang is a good strong runner. There's just something about that 289 h p. Love it. Thanks love your shows.
In my opinion, anytime you can lesson the rod angle on an engine, the more reliable and rev happy it will be. That’s the 289. Loved the sound of mine - really want to just overhaul it and stuff it back in my galaxie
I know this an old post. My friend was having lifter clatter on a motor he rebuilt - just like this one, so we pulled the valve cover off. I noticed the bolts - not nuts on the rockers. It looks like they just bottom out all the way tight and that's it. Non - adjustable like in this post? And they were all tight but still clattered. Every small block ford I ever had, the rockers were on a rocker stud and they're adjustable with a locking nut. He's telling me they can be tightened further but I think he's wrong and has no oil flowing down the rocker arms while its running. I think - "oil pump" right away. Bearings shot, pick up tube, or something like that. Then he say's that he doesn't have and hasn't had any oil pressure for a long time, and that his gauge is broke maybe. I think the gauge is probably ok and there's a problem with his oil pump, pick up tube, or bearings causing the oiling problem. We're pulling the motor and pan tomorrow to see what's going on down there. That motor had rocker clatter from the first day he ran it. He said he was going to adjust the rockers again months ago, and I thought nothing more of it. Until today when he asked if I could show him how to adjust the rockers while running. This is after a1000 miles of clattering... I said yes, cut out an old valve cover he got from the junk yard today and that's when I saw the rockers were not getting any oil. If you have any further advise on this particular issue I would be very appreciative. I watch your channel (because you know what you're doing) and subscribe as well. Thank you for posting this...It confirmed my suspicions but I would appreciate your thoughts as well when you get a chance.
Pedestal rockers are pretty common on post 74-76 heads - which are not adjustable. If your pushrod length is short because you installed an aftermarket high lift cam, you will have this clatter happen. Now no oil pressure is a separate issue that needs to be looked into for sure
@@ThunderHead289 He says the motor is the stock motor that came in his truck. A 94' f 100. All I know is that it's a newer gen 5.0 with a throttle body. First time I ever saw one was in the late 80's early 90's No matter matter what it is though. It's coming out today and I'm going through the whole thing. No oil pressure and not oiling the rockers - it's got to come out. He keeps insisting that these rockers are adjustable and that he adjusted them. But they're tight- really, really tight.. Way more that 20 lbs. Anyway, I'll take care of it. Thanks anyway.
Yes would like to know this as well putting in new lifters, the soak or not to soak question. I have bolt-down cobra roller rockers and the more I think about it when you tighten snug past zero lash and the rocker bottoms out they preload the lifter and cannot move further so probably does not matter if you presoak or not and if you do likely drained of oil until it is running anyway? At this point you torque as you stated for thread stretch and will not impact preload since the rocker is bottomed out, the 18-20 foot pounds just keeps them in place? I believe you need to adjust push rod length or shim rocker so bottom out past zero lash is between 1/4 and 1 turns and sounds like that is 0.03 to 0.06 of preload and spec on stock lifters? Is there an ideal number for the preload depending on how you intend to use the engine? Thank you for the video.
In typical form, I cannot for the life of me decide what I want to do with it. I should put it in the galaxie to get it going, But I’ve always felt That the rotstang would be a true test of that engine
Catch me at the Goodguys Nationals in DM, Iowa on the 29th-2nd !!! I will try to get the Rotstang there! facebook page: Thunderhead289 - Tech & Tune Forum facebook.com/groups/2041856606030081/
David Mason you are definitely correct, the flew the coupe in September right before the engine failed. The car is pretty much just ripping itself apart.
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🔔 The reason that Ford is agressive with their lifter preload is that as the engine reaches operating temperature, the lifter clearance gets LARGER not less. This is normal on all engines regardless of iron or aluminum heads.
Think of solid lifter cam lash..... @ .005 tighter when cold.
Thank you! I’ve been trying to find this info for a while . You explained it very well! I appreciate you !
Hi, I reached out to you once before. I have a 1990 Ford bronco and the engine was swapped for same engine just rebuilt by po. I’ve always had lack of power issues since I bought it. I did a tune up(rotor, cap, plugs, wires, and coil). Since then, the whole engine shakes horribly when in drive and reverse to the point I can’t drive it. It stalls and then the only way it starts again is if I move the distributor some. I time it everytime with timing light, I’ve also had 2 other people time it and still no change in shake and everytime distributor needs to be moved to start like it falls out of time. Another thing worth nothing, it only starts when the distributor is off angle of the factory placement. When I line it up with bolt like it says in manual, it will not start, then when I put it a little more with icm pointing to the left it starts. What would you check first? Thanks
I just did a cam swap in my '85 Country Squire. Used the summit flat tappet r.v. cam. Now I just need to fix my door...
Do you think that the 289 was a more soild and dependable engine then the 5.0. I'm not dissing the 5.0 I've got 397000 miles on mine in a 86 crown Vic. Drive it Daly. I know a lot of improvement can be done on a 5.0 also. My 289 high performance stock in my 66 mustang is a good strong runner. There's just something about that 289 h p. Love it. Thanks love your shows.
In my opinion, anytime you can lesson the rod angle on an engine, the more reliable and rev happy it will be. That’s the 289. Loved the sound of mine - really want to just overhaul it and stuff it back in my galaxie
I think I told you a while back that I had a brand new Crane flat tappet cam that I would have gave to you lol.
Oh facepalm. You indeed did.
ThunderHead289 pretty sure it's 484 on the lift and 218 on the 0.50
yep, probably would have been perfect. stupid on my part!
ThunderHead289 if you need it just let me know. You and I need to talk. I have a ton of high end Ford parts I would be willing to donate.
Mike MacCracken brotherford289@gmail.com
I know this an old post. My friend was having lifter clatter on a motor he rebuilt - just like this one, so we pulled the valve cover off. I noticed the bolts - not nuts on the rockers. It looks like they just bottom out all the way tight and that's it. Non - adjustable like in this post? And they were all tight but still clattered. Every small block ford I ever had, the rockers were on a rocker stud and they're adjustable with a locking nut. He's telling me they can be tightened further but I think he's wrong and has no oil flowing down the rocker arms while its running. I think - "oil pump" right away. Bearings shot, pick up tube, or something like that. Then he say's that he doesn't have and hasn't had any oil pressure for a long time, and that his gauge is broke maybe. I think the gauge is probably ok and there's a problem with his oil pump, pick up tube, or bearings causing the oiling problem. We're pulling the motor and pan tomorrow to see what's going on down there. That motor had rocker clatter from the first day he ran it. He said he was going to adjust the rockers again months ago, and I thought nothing more of it. Until today when he asked if I could show him how to adjust the rockers while running. This is after a1000 miles of clattering... I said yes, cut out an old valve cover he got from the junk yard today and that's when I saw the rockers were not getting any oil. If you have any further advise on this particular issue I would be very appreciative. I watch your channel (because you know what you're doing) and subscribe as well. Thank you for posting this...It confirmed my suspicions but I would appreciate your thoughts as well when you get a chance.
Pedestal rockers are pretty common on post 74-76 heads - which are not adjustable. If your pushrod length is short because you installed an aftermarket high lift cam, you will have this clatter happen. Now no oil pressure is a separate issue that needs to be looked into for sure
@@ThunderHead289 He says the motor is the stock motor that came in his truck. A 94' f 100. All I know is that it's a newer gen 5.0 with a throttle body. First time I ever saw one was in the late 80's early 90's No matter matter what it is though. It's coming out today and I'm going through the whole thing. No oil pressure and not oiling the rockers - it's got to come out. He keeps insisting that these rockers are adjustable and that he adjusted them. But they're tight- really, really tight.. Way more that 20 lbs. Anyway, I'll take care of it. Thanks anyway.
Do you need to have the lifters bled down or pumped up before adjusting the rockers?
Yes would like to know this as well putting in new lifters, the soak or not to soak question. I have bolt-down cobra roller rockers and the more I think about it when you tighten snug past zero lash and the rocker bottoms out they preload the lifter and cannot move further so probably does not matter if you presoak or not and if you do likely drained of oil until it is running anyway? At this point you torque as you stated for thread stretch and will not impact preload since the rocker is bottomed out, the 18-20 foot pounds just keeps them in place? I believe you need to adjust push rod length or shim rocker so bottom out past zero lash is between 1/4 and 1 turns and sounds like that is 0.03 to 0.06 of preload and spec on stock lifters? Is there an ideal number for the preload depending on how you intend to use the engine? Thank you for the video.
When your #1 is at TDC, are you adjusting both the #1 intake and #1 exhaust valves at the same time?
Will there be a forthcoming video on flat tappet cam break-in?
Yay it's working
whats your take on people saying the non-h.o. firing order wears out the bottom end? is it true or myth?
What kind of ring is that on your middle finger?
A ring of ignorance
Interrsting how all that lobe metal got pumped through the engine and oil pump into the filter, and didnt harm the cylinders 😱
Send it!!!
Is there any formal rally cross racing in iowa?
there is indeed - they had the scca nationals here 2 years ago!
Nice, I knew they ran SCCA Auto Cross events around here, I'll have to check it out.
definitely! bring a skid plate
So what if your valve is open when you hit 20ft ibs running a b303
What’s going on with the Mabbco build
In typical form, I cannot for the life of me decide what I want to do with it. I should put it in the galaxie to get it going, But I’ve always felt That the rotstang would be a true test of that engine
I ran into the the exact opposite problem. I put in a bigger cam and had to get shorter pushrods
That’s not even possible at least if the lift was more
If your pushrods were too short would you lose hp ?
ThunderHead289 you wouldnt happen to have a stock ho roller cam you would sell? located in eastern nebraska
lol that is a roller motor...not a flat tapper block...THE XXX in the valley means roller....YYY stamp is a non roller
I'd pay attention to what I say if I were you
Catch me at the Goodguys Nationals in DM, Iowa on the 29th-2nd !!!
I will try to get the Rotstang there!
facebook page: Thunderhead289 - Tech & Tune Forum
facebook.com/groups/2041856606030081/
Is it my eyes or are you missing two header bolts?
David Mason you are definitely correct, the flew the coupe in September right before the engine failed.
The car is pretty much just ripping itself apart.
ThunderHead289 well I guess all you can do is send it!👍
thats definitely the plan!!!
It wont load my friend
fixed