Very good video. I've bought a cheap clone controller board on ebay and they only work with A1321 50W heating elements. They're cheap and readily available, so they provide a good value. then I also acquired those clone 907 5pin solder iron (model B ) to fit the temperature controller board. All of that is pretty inexpensive, around 5.5$ for the controller board and 2$ for the iron. After that UI acquired locally a 24V transformer and all was set to assemble. A good solder station for a very reasonable price. The only problem is that usually the cheap iron handles use a nichrome heating element and that does not work with the controller boards I had. So after watching your video I just went in and acquired a set of ceramic A1321 heating elements and soldered tehm to the handle PCB and now all is working! Nice video!
I did this to my Gordak 952 iron. It originally came with a Gordak 952 A1322 element. Replaced it with a Chinese A1321 ceramic and adjusted the circuitry to read from the thermistor. It heated too fast and the transformer gave a lot of hum. After using it for a while, the ceramic heating element developed some black burn marks around it. The temperature readings were very inacurate at low and high temperatures. So I replaced it with the original element that came with the station. Eventhough it was a 1322 style nichrome heater, it was built better than the Chinese ceramic type and is giving accurate temperature readings across all temp ranges. To fix the issues with power delivery, I change tips mid soldering jobs depending on the requirement.
Nice sir, Sir, 60w insisted 90w soldering filament use ?? What effect ... temperature any damage soldering station? And also know why faulty in filament other wise power supply always good and perfect. Please sir, same guide
Hello Sir, I have a problem, can you help me, I have connected an A1321 heating element as specified in on my order "Soldering iron control panel, A1321 for HAKKO 936, AC 24V 3A 200-480C Thermostat Module ". But on heating element A1321, the red wire burns and ends up cutting if you insist ... So is it a problem with a wire that is too thin for the current? Or is it the wrong (poor quality) heating element? Or something else? Help me please. Ps: I am an electronics and computer professional so I performed several tests but no good results (the red wire burns and cuts if you insist. Best regards. P. MONTIER
Navigation for asshole Info: Ceramic & Nichrome heaters 1:04 Pinout: Ceramic heating element 3:27 Replacing heating element: Nichrome to Ceramic 4:04 Heating rate(speed) test: Ceramic vs Nichrome 6:39 How to modify soldering station for Ceramic idea behinf such modification 11:30 Modifying soldering station board 12:36 Soldering station tests after modification & calibration 13:50 Thermoresistor defect 16:09
I have Radio Shack soldering iron 60 Watts,element burned out but its an 120 volt not an 24 volt..I tried to rewire with nichrome wire but it continue to burn....Any ideas why wire burns out??Maybe too many winding on it or maybe less???The ceramic tubing is like 3mm thick,it is also small.....How much winding supposed to be made and is it important that every turn must be close to each other???
One of these ? www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-60w-soldering-iron Dumpster / throw-away line-voltage (120VAC) iron. Quality used soldering irons and stations passed by countless buyers ...
hi Sergei,, I need know what type of heating element replace for my solder station CT-Brand 953D.. Can you help me ? How to make for identify a right heating element ? My station soldering up to 480°
Hi! You should search that in the documentation for your device. If your heater R = 12...15 Ω and your sensor R < 4Ω then it's a nichrome(heater) & thermocouple(sensor) type soldering iron.
unfortunally this station is very old and the company factory is too discontinue by reply to email. So this is a nichrome right ?,, I need replace it beacause cracked, what model and what size watt i need buy ? my heater is 24v and the solder station heat up to 480° C
@@annabiagetti549 You can find similar looking soldering iron handles, and then ask sellers (on ebay or aliexpress) about their products (what kind of heater and sensor do they have).
Why the 15kΩ resistor? By my calculations, if your power supply expected a 41μV/°C thermocouple, that's 16.4mV@400°C. If your new thermistor outputs 117Ω@400°C, then we have: (117Ω*5V)/(R0+117V)=16.4mV 117Ω*5V=R0*16.4mV+117Ω*16.4mV 585=R0*16.4mV+1.9188 585-1.9188=R0*16.4mV (585-1.9188)/16.4mV=R0=36kΩ Of course, it's not perfect, because it treats 0° like room temperature, but I would think that would be the closest you could get with a single resistor.
I did not try to simulate a thermocouple. I knew that I could always recalibrate the station. I believe, at high temperatures, the curve will be non-linear for the tip. Thus, linear extrapolation won't work well. And someone has to (re)calibrate. On the other hand, a smaller value of R0 increases the resolution of the sensor.
Great Video! Wish I was at your skill level, but unfortunately, I have already built a simple circuit for the A1321 or 907F soldering iron. That circuitry only works with The thermistor type iron and not the K-type Thermocouple. My questions has nothing to do with the video, but you look like the man who just might know this answer. I don't have the skills to use adrino yet..(But I am working on that..LOL). I have a thermocouple type meter that read up to 999c. Unfortantantly, it will not work with my current set up. I have a station that only uses the A1321 and an Iron to match. But I would love to keep track of the temperature. I looked into other meters for thermistors, and the only got up to 300c on average, I need up to 450c. In your video, you used a voltage divider to make the unit read and work with the A1321. Is there anyway I could alter the meter only to read Thermistors instead of thermocouple? I am still learning what a voltage divider is. Do you think adding a resistor from the power to the plus side of the readout would allow the meter to read the temp? I only need it to read the temperature using the thermistor on the iron. I would piggyback the output wire going to the iron with this meter. The circuitry will control the iron. I get around the same reading on my iron...49 ohms and 4 ohms. The meter I would like to rework is called a (Meter Sockets Yeeco 0-999 C LED Digital Temperature Thermocouple Thermometer K). I would discard or save the thermocouple that came with and possible us it in another project and only use the meter. Hope all that made sense! Great work on the iron and I watch all your video often. I am a new subscriber and I can't wait to see if you might have a solution with the parts I already own. Please let me know if you want any other info!
If your device lets you calibrate the displaying temperature using at least two points then you can try to change the circuit. (The two points are needed to change the slope and bias. Because for thermistor It has to be a completely different curve) Otherwise you will never get the correct temperature on the display. On the other hand, as a simple approach, you can use your multimeter to measure voltage across the thermistor, if the thermistor is connected to the soldering station circuit (or resistance, if not) . This voltage should vary with temperature. After some measurements you can figure out what voltage corresponds to what temperature.
Thanks for the reply, Guess I will have to play around with it. I was hoping it was as easy as adding a resistor. Here is the Meter I have on hand- www.ebay.com/itm/Meter-Sockets-Yeeco-0-999-C-LED-Digital-Temperature-Thermocouple-Thermometer-K/302266676352 here is the circuitry I have or about to build(I recreated a board with EasyEda)- easyeda.com/fulwider40/Soldering_Iron_907F-259468bbe2964a2eb4a584eb2d72f041 It doesn't work like your(only able to use 907F or the Thermistor version). First LED is power only, second LED will blink till it hits the temperature defined by the Potentiometer. Once it hits temperature, the led stay on. Found the design from another talented TH-cam poster. I just wanted my project to have a thermostatic meter so I could keep track of the temperature with what I had on hand. I tried to find a Thermistor meter, I even own a few. But for some reason, the smaller ones only go up to 300c at the most. On the other hand, Your build is definitely in the cards. I have built a couple of t12 irons stations, this one will be my only 907F. Then later when I get the parts, I will try my skill level on the one you built. Yours is a Great Design and I really like it allot!👍👍👍👍👍
Universal Soldering Controller was covered in 2015. dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175 Japanese gov’t and manufacturer’s spent $1 Billion USD in Ceramic R&D ... this research led to ceramic coatings in automotive industry as well as Hakko’s superior heating elements. China did not learn the decade of R&D lessons. China also has supplier issues with purity of “feeder materials”, metals, raw materials ... these impurities taint the production of higher products.
Very good video. I've bought a cheap clone controller board on ebay and they only work with A1321 50W heating elements.
They're cheap and readily available, so they provide a good value.
then I also acquired those clone 907 5pin solder iron (model B ) to fit the temperature controller board.
All of that is pretty inexpensive, around 5.5$ for the controller board and 2$ for the iron.
After that UI acquired locally a 24V transformer and all was set to assemble. A good solder station for a very reasonable price.
The only problem is that usually the cheap iron handles use a nichrome heating element and that does not work with the controller boards I had.
So after watching your video I just went in and acquired a set of ceramic A1321 heating elements and soldered tehm to the handle PCB and now all is working!
Nice video!
I did this to my Gordak 952 iron. It originally came with a Gordak 952 A1322 element. Replaced it with a Chinese A1321 ceramic and adjusted the circuitry to read from the thermistor. It heated too fast and the transformer gave a lot of hum. After using it for a while, the ceramic heating element developed some black burn marks around it. The temperature readings were very inacurate at low and high temperatures.
So I replaced it with the original element that came with the station. Eventhough it was a 1322 style nichrome heater, it was built better than the Chinese ceramic type and is giving accurate temperature readings across all temp ranges.
To fix the issues with power delivery, I change tips mid soldering jobs depending on the requirement.
Super video, you helped me repair a soldering station that's been out of service for many a year, Thank you for sharing your knowledge :)
I'm a bit confused about the A1321 heater? Shouldn't 3 Ohms at 24V produce considerably more than 50W? 🤔
Nice sir,
Sir, 60w insisted 90w soldering filament use ?? What effect ... temperature any damage soldering station?
And also know why faulty in filament other wise power supply always good and perfect.
Please sir, same guide
I have the same problem with temistor like you describer at 16:30. When I hit the soldering iron tip , it is start working again :)
as i know thermister does vary slightly with temperature, by the way did you use ac or dc to power the heating element.
Hello Sir,
I have a problem, can you help me, I have connected an A1321 heating element as specified in on my order "Soldering iron control panel, A1321 for HAKKO 936, AC 24V 3A 200-480C Thermostat Module ".
But on heating element A1321, the red wire burns and ends up cutting if you insist ...
So is it a problem with a wire that is too thin for the current?
Or is it the wrong (poor quality) heating element?
Or something else?
Help me please.
Ps:
I am an electronics and computer professional so I performed several tests but no good results (the red wire burns and cuts if you insist.
Best regards.
P. MONTIER
Navigation for asshole
Info: Ceramic & Nichrome heaters 1:04
Pinout: Ceramic heating element 3:27
Replacing heating element: Nichrome to Ceramic 4:04
Heating rate(speed) test: Ceramic vs Nichrome 6:39
How to modify soldering station for Ceramic
idea behinf such modification 11:30
Modifying soldering station board 12:36
Soldering station tests after modification & calibration 13:50
Thermoresistor defect 16:09
List created by Asshole with nothing better to do....
Can I use a-1321 element in hakko 936 iron
I have Radio Shack soldering iron 60 Watts,element burned out but its an 120 volt not an 24 volt..I tried to rewire with nichrome wire but it continue to burn....Any ideas why wire burns out??Maybe too many winding on it or maybe less???The ceramic tubing is like 3mm thick,it is also small.....How much winding supposed to be made and is it important that every turn must be close to each other???
One of these ?
www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-60w-soldering-iron
Dumpster / throw-away line-voltage (120VAC) iron.
Quality used soldering irons and stations passed by countless buyers ...
hi Sergei,, I need know what type of heating element replace for my solder station CT-Brand 953D.. Can you help me ? How to make for identify a right heating element ? My station soldering up to 480°
Hi! You should search that in the documentation for your device. If your heater R = 12...15 Ω and your sensor R < 4Ω then it's a nichrome(heater) & thermocouple(sensor) type soldering iron.
@@sergeikrasnikov I read with tester 13,5 and 2,5 ohm
unfortunally this station is very old and the company factory is too discontinue by reply to email.
So this is a nichrome right ?,, I need replace it beacause cracked, what model and what size watt i need buy ? my heater is 24v and the solder station heat up to 480° C
@@annabiagetti549 I think you need a hakko 907 handle like in this video th-cam.com/video/aVkXNvVu7EQ/w-d-xo.html
@@annabiagetti549 You can find similar looking soldering iron handles, and then ask sellers (on ebay or aliexpress) about their products (what kind of heater and sensor do they have).
Price of hakko 900 element
the irony of using one iron to repair an other 🤣
Why the 15kΩ resistor? By my calculations, if your power supply expected a 41μV/°C thermocouple, that's 16.4mV@400°C. If your new thermistor outputs 117Ω@400°C, then we have:
(117Ω*5V)/(R0+117V)=16.4mV
117Ω*5V=R0*16.4mV+117Ω*16.4mV
585=R0*16.4mV+1.9188
585-1.9188=R0*16.4mV
(585-1.9188)/16.4mV=R0=36kΩ
Of course, it's not perfect, because it treats 0° like room temperature, but I would think that would be the closest you could get with a single resistor.
I did not try to simulate a thermocouple. I knew that I could always recalibrate the station. I believe, at high temperatures, the curve will be non-linear for the tip. Thus, linear extrapolation won't work well. And someone has to (re)calibrate. On the other hand, a smaller value of R0 increases the resolution of the sensor.
hello i m from india ( Mumbai ).. want to start manufacturing soldering iron but ve a query... can i ask u here.. thnk u : )
Great Video! Wish I was at your skill level, but unfortunately, I have already built a simple circuit for the A1321 or 907F soldering iron. That circuitry only works with The thermistor type iron and not the K-type Thermocouple. My questions has nothing to do with the video, but you look like the man who just might know this answer. I don't have the skills to use adrino yet..(But I am working on that..LOL). I have a thermocouple type meter that read up to 999c. Unfortantantly, it will not work with my current set up. I have a station that only uses the A1321 and an Iron to match. But I would love to keep track of the temperature. I looked into other meters for thermistors, and the only got up to 300c on average, I need up to 450c. In your video, you used a voltage divider to make the unit read and work with the A1321. Is there anyway I could alter the meter only to read Thermistors instead of thermocouple? I am still learning what a voltage divider is. Do you think adding a resistor from the power to the plus side of the readout would allow the meter to read the temp? I only need it to read the temperature using the thermistor on the iron. I would piggyback the output wire going to the iron with this meter. The circuitry will control the iron. I get around the same reading on my iron...49 ohms and 4 ohms. The meter I would like to rework is called a (Meter Sockets Yeeco 0-999 C LED Digital Temperature Thermocouple Thermometer K). I would discard or save the thermocouple that came with and possible us it in another project and only use the meter.
Hope all that made sense! Great work on the iron and I watch all your video often. I am a new subscriber and I can't wait to see if you might have a solution with the parts I already own. Please let me know if you want any other info!
If your device lets you calibrate the displaying temperature using at least two points then you can try to change the circuit. (The two points are needed to change the slope and bias. Because for thermistor It has to be a completely different curve) Otherwise you will never get the correct temperature on the display. On the other hand, as a simple approach, you can use your multimeter to measure voltage across the thermistor, if the thermistor is connected to the soldering station circuit (or resistance, if not) . This voltage should vary with temperature. After some measurements you can figure out what voltage corresponds to what temperature.
Thanks for the reply, Guess I will have to play around with it. I was hoping it was as easy as adding a resistor. Here is the Meter I have on hand-
www.ebay.com/itm/Meter-Sockets-Yeeco-0-999-C-LED-Digital-Temperature-Thermocouple-Thermometer-K/302266676352
here is the circuitry I have or about to build(I recreated a board with EasyEda)-
easyeda.com/fulwider40/Soldering_Iron_907F-259468bbe2964a2eb4a584eb2d72f041
It doesn't work like your(only able to use 907F or the Thermistor version). First LED is power only, second LED will blink till it hits the temperature defined by the Potentiometer. Once it hits temperature, the led stay on. Found the design from another talented TH-cam poster.
I just wanted my project to have a thermostatic meter so I could keep track of the temperature with what I had on hand. I tried to find a Thermistor meter, I even own a few. But for some reason, the smaller ones only go up to 300c at the most.
On the other hand, Your build is definitely in the cards. I have built a couple of t12 irons stations, this one will be my only 907F. Then later when I get the parts, I will try my skill level on the one you built. Yours is a Great Design and I really like it allot!👍👍👍👍👍
Very informative esp. The difference....thank you
Plz make another for heat gun for faster heating
When the new video s are comming!!!?
tanks great vid learned a lot
Universal Soldering Controller was covered in 2015.
dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175
Japanese gov’t and manufacturer’s spent $1 Billion USD in Ceramic R&D ... this research led to ceramic coatings in automotive industry as well as Hakko’s superior heating elements. China did not learn the decade of R&D lessons. China also has supplier issues with purity of “feeder materials”, metals, raw materials ... these impurities taint the production of higher products.
совсем другое дело, не то что в других видео и статьях
Отличное видео.
Super Revier !!!!!
..Thank you...Very good info...
Very Good.
Music is way TOO LOUD!
cool.
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