FINALLY SOMEONE HAS DONE IT!!! You now belong to the god tier of electronics youtubers. I've been looking for a tutorial on this for years. I've always wondered why no one has made a proper tutorial about it. The amount of detail on the steps are beyond great! I've learned something new today, thank you. Subbed!
Thanks man! Been using this for nearly 3 years now, now I have two of them. My old version 1 and the version 2 from this video. I'll make a github for the updated version of the code with the PID version of the code.
@@TechBuilder sir nakapag gawa kana po ba ng bagong code with PID naman po? gusto ko po sana matutunan yung PID system sa pag control ng heating element po na ito. Salamat po.
I don't understand anything you said in the video but still enjoy watching it. Im really interested in electronics and i hope one day i can understand everything you talk in this video.
CORRECTION!!!! - Use the IRLZ44N not the IRFZ44N. The PCB label and schematic on the video lacked the "L". Your MOSFET will run hot if you use the non-logic level IRFZ44N MOSFET. For MOSFET alternatives visit the instructable link. I personally prefer the IRLB4132. - Due to tiny revisions, please refer to the file package schematics or the instructable tutorial. I update them often for typos and corrections. The one on the Google drive is all fixed. - To those who ordered my PCB you should be good to go, the tiny errors in the schematic and PDF files had nothing to do with the PCB links. - I accidentally swapped and mislabeled Vin and Vout from the voltage divider equation when I was transcribing my hand written docs. The computation wasn't affected.
A big thanks , I spend 6 months in my RV and loving to do projects on the road and my Hanko Take a bit of room and dealing with that pesky extension cord. I printed your lid with a Dewalt battery adapter" That I always carry for my drill" . I also just did one for my nephew in-Law for a Makita battery. I will post both on Thigiverse under HANKO.
I am an old man but I sure do enjoy you young folks and all your knowledge. I want to build one of these but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it. Thanks for your video. I'll try to follow along and make one.
i just stumbled onto this video from doing a YT search. after watching this video (my 1st from your channel) i decided to sub/bell. thanks for the great info and making it real clear (which includes the superb A/V).
Thank you brother i didn't find any solution for my 928D soldering station tip tharmal conductivity. I purchased lots of tip but no one gave me a good result...then i followed your tharmal paste idea...and it was really surprising that my 2 years old iron tip working as like a brand new tip.....thanks
the best project on youtube for beginners in electronics who want to build a variable temp soldering station, brilliant work, thank you so much. I will do a bit of research on how to detect idle on the base to sleep the iron, but any tips would be welcome.
Your joints are on point! You should do a tutorial on basic soldering. I that LTC chip on the vid one of your new projects? Looks like a big project. Once again, great tutorial!
thanks for the thermistor value graph. since I don't have programming skills or an Arduino I'll just steeeaaal the graph details to make the analog version. thanks again!
I completely understand how to make this and I WANT to make this, but I literally don't have the knowledge for it. I don't understand technical diagrams/schematics and I would have literally no idea how to tune or find out all the voltages stuff. However, thank you so much for making this video. I hope I can make this some day :')
I gotta say, ever since I saw you on the news about the Filipino kid that invented a device that charges your phone while walking I subscribed on your channel. Great content! Keep it up. That thermal paste hack tho. Touché hahaha galing mo man
sexier version of great scott's JBC station. looks really good! I can hear eevblog saying "hakko!" hahaha. The hakko connector was the only thing that kept me from making one before. Thanks for including the pinout documentation. I will try to buy a clone and replace the connector with a 4 pin aux. love the vid 💯
Thanks!! Ummm I think the aux might be a bad idea since the contact resistance increases overtime when the surface oxidizes. I suggest using two DC jacks or a 4 pin header connector :) Have fun!
Is that possible with a MOSFET driver and irfz44n, I can't find IRL version. If possible then can you say the frequency needs for MOSFET driver? Please 🥺🙏
Why did you run the +5V on the pcb from the Arduino that power's up the LM358 and the LCD display through the A3 pin of the Arduino?, does that not affect something?, and still the schematic doesn't show that connection. And another thing is that driving the mosfet directly from Arduino is not quite ideal because the output is only 5V and the mosfet will not be fully opened and will run a bit hot, you need at least 10 V on the gate.
У меня сопротивление у датчика всего 1.5 ома (при температуре 30 г). А не 50 ома как у вас. И когда подал напряжение 12в (то что был в руках) сопротивление датчика поднялось до 120 ома (к сожалению не было возможности измерять температуру наконечнике) Как мне поступить? Хочу повторить проект. Как я понял надо заново рассчитать сопротивление резисторов да? Не могли бы помочь? Спасибо заранее.
I have to revisit my data from years ago. But as far as I could recall, the heater has a positive thermal coefficient (resistance increases as the heater temperature increases). TBH it’s favorable as it can possibly prevent the heater from having a meltdown if thermal runaway occurs.
@@TechBuilder I hear you about the positive thermal coefficient, but, shouldn't the initial power surge (when the station is turned on), be a problem? And it's probably not a short surge, more like several seconds. The resistance probably won't start rising (enough), for 5-10 seconds, and during that time, the heater will draw something like 8-9A.
@@hagartm It can be a problem if the PSU does not have a constant current limit. I have experienced a problem from a similar project years ago, where the PSU only has a over current cut-off (hiccup mode of OC protection), which made the heater heat up longer compared to a CC regulated PSU. Some laptop chargers have CC regulation or most at least have the Hiccup OC protection. Full disclosure, the code does not have that initial ramp current limit. The best way to implement this is to add a current sensor and use it as a feedback for PWM control (in turn, this increases complexity). A simpler way to do this without and hardware add-ons is to set an arbitrary PWM duty cycle ramp to control the initial ramp current. To do this effectively, you might have to sit around and gather data on the voltage, current, temp then derive the heater resistance using a spreadsheet. This way you can determine the required PWM duty cycle to limit the ramp current for a period of time. Mine has been running for 4 years now with regular use, it hasn’t died on me so far, nor had problems with it :) It runs along side my Miniware TS101. I still prefer the Hakko for its grip haha.
@@TechBuilder I hear you about the constant current limit as well, but then, why not simplify the design?? (Not your design, speaking in general terms). Why not run the heater at 9V?! That would make for a 2-3A current draw, and there would be no need for PWM (I'm probably missing something trivial, but it 'is' kinda weird; wish I could find the technical papers for the original Hakko 936 (not the manual, something more in depth)).
@@hagartm I get what you mean. If I could recall correctly, the resistance reaches 11 ohms at 450 degrees C (due to its PTC; thus the 50W rating). Running a lower voltage PSU would work (I used to have a 18V brick attached to it before I upgraded to a 24V one), but doing so would also limit the heater’s maximum heating temperature and ramp up time. This is why I still keep the 907 even though I have the TS101, I programmed my 907 to have a temp limit above 490 degC. (Kinda useful for soldering chunky gauge 10 wires). Whilst it is dangerous, I only go above its intended limit in short periods of time and keep an eye on it. I ran into a similar problem when I made this project, I couldn’t find graphs on Hakko’s heating element, so I had to evaluate it. You can visit the instructables link in the vid description, there’s a spreadsheet there. I just hope I could tell my younger self to also record the currents along side the thermistor resistance and heater temps hahaha. I hope that sheet helps with your project :)
Fantastic, you made me go to back to Proteus again (abandoned since 2014). I will try a slight add thinking on using it hours in a real job. I miss someting to reduce temp when device is in support unused waiting for Next solder attempt. I think a LDR placed on the external support could do the job, when dark comes "handle on support" the arduino could pass to económic Mode. When darkness goes away "Handle out of support" back to normal Mode again. Just an additional 2 pin plug for the external LDR and some board modification.
That's a freak'n good vid mate! God, I'm glac you did this,thanks alot, A LOT!!!! Just a little question though: can you tell us an average price of the project (without power supply) ?? Thanks again.
What do your heating-element and the inside of the tips look like when you exchange them after having used thermal paste between them? The datasheets of most thermal pastes I could find indicate that they decompose well below common soldering temperatures.
Hi there, can I ask a question ! I'm interested in you project and i've made the exact same things you did but when i plug everything in the IRL4132 heats up very fast , the Preset temp always 525 i cant change it using potentiometer. Please help me if i 've done anything wrong. Thank you !
Hi friend. Thank a lot. Please answer me. I built this project. But I have a problem in handle connecting. The ground pin on the handle should be connected to which point of the board? Because I see 4 point on the board for handle connecting. And I don't see a point for 5th pin on the board ( Ground pin )
Thank you for your project, i made it but for the first while it doesn't work because you have missed the GND wire on you PCB (PDF) and when i added this wire every thing is was ok. So thanks any way.
For two years I've been using the version 1 with a 18V 2.5A charger, it didn't bother me at all. Really helped me a lot in soldering guage#10 wires and XT60 connectors like a breeze! As for 15V, I'm not that sure. Are you planning to solder chunky stuff? On the other hand, 24 Volts is amazing!
@@TechBuilder I mostly do smaller work, and there's an old weller station that can do the heavier stuff. I'll keep an eye out for a 24V brick next time I need to order some supplies then. Thanks!
Ngayon ko lang ulit naalala to si sir angelo Napanood ko dati sa tv Yung video nya regarding sa piezoelectric generator Na amaze ako non kasi nabalita sa tv yon Naalala ko lang damit nya nung nasa table sya tas nakasalamin sya Nung hinanap ko ibang video regarding sayo sir nagulat ako hehe Nakaka inspire sobra hehe mahilig din ako sa electronics, sa mga pangangalikot Skl hehe, idol ka sir angelo Btw tanong ko lang po saan kayo na order ng parts niyan sa manila hehe Salamat sir angelo ! Idol!!
Good project but ... there are some issues with this setup: 1- The very cheap Hakko clones handles do not have ceramic heaters. I storngly suggest replacing the heating element for the Hakko 1321. 2- If the heating element is a Hakko 1321 (or clone of that) ceramic heating element then the iron will have 50W of power and have JK junction sensors, not thermistors. 3- Even if IRFZ44N is a logic level mosfet (for 5V logic) at least for up to 10A-20A Drain current it requires a drive since you're actuating the mosfet with a PWM cycle. I imagine the PWM cycle could reach 30KHz-50KHz ... so that means a transistor to drive the base is necessary. 4- A simple linear regulator even in a TO-92 package would suffice to be the source power for the arduino and Display there's no need for the module used although of course that works also.
Thanks! I did mention in in the video to replace the clone heating element with an original one, they're pretty cheap too. Yep, other models use thermocouples, the MAX6675 would work well with k-types. The PWM frequency with pin 10 was left on Arduino's default frequency of 490Hz, the IRFZ44N should suffice. I've built three of these already, they're pretty stable. The IRLB4132 on the other hand is my favourite logic level MOSFETs for most PWM projects below 30V. For the regulator, I'm assuming you're referring to the 78L05. Dont forget, that the LCD backlight is relatively power hungry if a linear regulator were to be used for a 24V-5V voltage difference (if vin is bypassed). The system on standby runs at around 0.12A at 5V, at 24V the heat dissipated is around 2.2W, most TO-92 linear regulators are limited to 1W. In my experience these often fail fast when the thermals are neglected. The TO-220 7805 would be a wise choice, but heatsinking would probably be required. Regardless if it was board mounted or D2PAK soldered, it's going to dissipate too much heat. I went with the buck since the specific model to keep the board small, cool and effecient. Bucks are kinda cheap these days :) But I guess there's no stopping on anyone who decides to hotwire a linear reg on the buck pins.
@@TechBuilder If you only use 490Hz then it may be stable since the gate will have time to discharge and charge with not a significant amount of RC dumping effect. But the change for a 1321 ceramic heating element I strongly suggest. It's a big difference specially when it comes to heating times. It heats to the setpoint temperature much faster then those pre-instaled in very cheap 907 handles. And also they're not that expensive. I also prefer the IRBL4132 but I think I have the same problem you have ... a ton of IRFZ44N lying around waiting to be used :) About the linear regulator well with the display being a 1602 you're right a TO-220 would be advisable, with a heatsink. Like I said the small buck converter works just fine.
Friend is here not a PID Control missing ? because i dont know how i calculate the hakko iron i have 2 edition from the heating element 1. 51 OHM 2. 58 OHM How i can do the 2 heating elements a1321 passing to calculate good ? its missing 😞
The inbuilt K type thermocouple measures ADC values against the tip thermometer temperature. This is how you calibrated ? Pls mention the use of k type thermocouple
Hello dear brother,can you help me to give information that,which type of soldering iron is safe for electronics ics and components AC or DC soldering iron?because static electricity makes fault,most of in market ac soldering iron is available,and most person use that for mobile repair also.but i have confussion abopuit which is safe?....
Hello bro, I have followed all these tutorials. with slight changes in some of its components. but, why every time I connect it always says cool and tip are very hot?
Your feedback is faulty. I've been emailed with issues similar to yours, as it turns out other clone handles use thermocouples rather than thermistors. This project is designed for thermistor equipped tips and not thermocouple (as found from hakko's original 907 handle sets)
1.) Test to verify if the handle you have is a thermistor type 2.) Check if the op amp is working 3.) Check for faulty connections honestly there a lot that could go wrong it's really hard to tell without seeing the ckt. did you breadboard yours or fabricated a custom pcb for it.
Здравствуйте. Понравился ваш проект. Не подскажите, нужна перемычка или нет? Если она ставится, то +5 вольт попадает на 9 ногу подкинет. А если нет то как записывается микросхема? Нет ли ошибки в плате?
nice project, I am going to try it! I was wondering if there is a diy project for a descent iron tip thermometer... I bought one once but ended up with a "lemon" measuring temps as much as 100 degrees above the actual temp... can you direct me to one such a project, if it exist? thank you much! OR perhaps I could use only the measuring temperature section of the code?
Serious question, how does this compares to a hakko soldering station? About the same, superior, inferior? I was sourcing the components and unfortunately it comes about the same price, so I was wondering, if it's about the same or superior I might wanna build this one simply becoz of design and size haha
I would like to use this to build up a desoldering station. To do so I've bought a desoldering gun already available on the market that I want to heat up with this station. The heater inside the gun is claimed to be 24v 90W but measuring the resistance with a multimeter i found 2 ohm! I was expecting something like 6-7 ohm. Is still possible to use it with your project? I mean considering is a power modulation? Thanks
I built it and did it the best that I could to follow the schematic. I purchased the boards from china. Looked at the drawings but couldn't be sure to find out if I had wired the sensor and the heater properly. Something is wrong as the solder even melted with the iron turned all the way down. Try checking the ohms on the sensor and heater and they both run about the same! Can anyone give me a link to an iron that they've made it work? Thanks for any help.
Just finish the project , and the T actual it says "cool" , i mesure the sensor value and on 27 degress c it is 4.2 ohms. so my hakko clone iron is a different how to change the skech to get working well? 10x
hey its been a year since you uploaded this custom soldering iron video, how about a new one with the headphone jack connector type iron, since its the new design and more efficient than the old cartridge one.
I decided to use a pin header for the connections. Plus, I figured why you are able to disconnect the soldering iron: in case the soldering iron gets destroyed, you can replace it easily.
It's an extra precaution for people using hakko clone handles. I've read in forums that some heating elements use a coil of nichrome inside the ceramic material, making some inductive as well.
FINALLY SOMEONE HAS DONE IT!!! You now belong to the god tier of electronics youtubers. I've been looking for a tutorial on this for years. I've always wondered why no one has made a proper tutorial about it. The amount of detail on the steps are beyond great! I've learned something new today, thank you. Subbed!
Thanks man! Been using this for nearly 3 years now, now I have two of them. My old version 1 and the version 2 from this video. I'll make a github for the updated version of the code with the PID version of the code.
@@TechBuilder Hope you upload them soon. 👍
Are you in the Philippines? Can i buy one from you instead?
Bilihin ko na lang sobrang PCB mo? Para di na ako mag etch pa :)
@@TechBuilder sir nakapag gawa kana po ba ng bagong code with PID naman po? gusto ko po sana matutunan yung PID system sa pag control ng heating element po na ito. Salamat po.
Good reverse and forward engineering job. I too was blown away at the thermal grease mod. Best thing I watched all day.
I don't understand anything you said in the video but still enjoy watching it. Im really interested in electronics and i hope one day i can understand everything you talk in this video.
This video is awesome, all the details, every step, options for other users while still being quick and entertaining. 10/10 did watch again
Thank you! It means a lot! ❤️
This is the best soldering work station. Simple and direct. No need to spend extra $$$ to buy temperature reader to calibrate
This will my next soldering station project.
Enjoy!
CORRECTION!!!!
- Use the IRLZ44N not the IRFZ44N. The PCB label and schematic on the video lacked the "L". Your MOSFET will run hot if you use the non-logic level IRFZ44N MOSFET. For MOSFET alternatives visit the instructable link. I personally prefer the IRLB4132.
- Due to tiny revisions, please refer to the file package schematics or the instructable tutorial. I update them often for typos and corrections. The one on the Google drive is all fixed.
- To those who ordered my PCB you should be good to go, the tiny errors in the schematic and PDF files had nothing to do with the PCB links.
- I accidentally swapped and mislabeled Vin and Vout from the voltage divider equation when I was transcribing my hand written docs. The computation wasn't affected.
can i suggest next that you build a soldering station that include a heater gun and banana plug input (for other testing)?
That's a great idea! I can perhaps make an adapter for this one too :D
so this doc we can still follow sir right?
I don't see the sleep mode, why don't let the 5th wire be the sensor
@@Van-Hoa-Viet Want me to add a sleep mode code variant? I don't find the sleep mode useful so I removed it from the code.
A big thanks , I spend 6 months in my RV and loving to do projects on the road and my Hanko Take a bit of room and dealing with that pesky extension cord. I printed your lid with a Dewalt battery adapter" That I always carry for my drill" . I also just did one for my nephew in-Law for a Makita battery. I will post both on Thigiverse under HANKO.
Another excellent DIY explained concisely. Injecting thermal paste inside the soldering iron? A bonus tip!
I would absolutely die for a DIY kit to buy from you! This looks way more compact than my Chinese 936D soldering station! Kudos!
I love the simplistic design, smooth and clean,im gonna build this
I love the aestheic of the container. Rounded corners ftw.
Thanks Benj!!
Someday I wish I could be like you guys, designing and programming stuff. Cheers from the PH!
Hi! Reading books & journals help! You will be! Just keep your curiosity running! :)
I am an old man but I sure do enjoy you young folks and all your knowledge. I want to build one of these but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it. Thanks for your video. I'll try to follow along and make one.
Super cool! Thanks for including all the details of your design process.
Thanks man!
Black PLA as opposed to spraypainting seems a better choice. Nice job 👍
So good. This is best project i have ever seen.
couldn't agree more
Thank you!
Thermal paste hack is briliant. 👍👍
i just stumbled onto this video from doing a YT search. after watching this video (my 1st from your channel) i decided to sub/bell. thanks for the great info and making it real clear (which includes the superb A/V).
I really love your mini prototyping projects!
Thank you brother i didn't find any solution for my 928D soldering station tip tharmal conductivity. I purchased lots of tip but no one gave me a good result...then i followed your tharmal paste idea...and it was really surprising that my 2 years old iron tip working as like a brand new tip.....thanks
the best project on youtube for beginners in electronics who want to build a variable temp soldering station, brilliant work, thank you so much. I will do a bit of research on how to detect idle on the base to sleep the iron, but any tips would be welcome.
Ang galing mo bata! Sana marami pang mga pinoy na bumangon katulad mo.
SUPER, Well done ! This has got to be one the best solder station projects I have come across …… thank you !
Could you get enough resolution by swapping the positions of R1 and R2 @2:03, or is there a reason you can't wire the thermistor before R1?
Your joints are on point! You should do a tutorial on basic soldering. I that LTC chip on the vid one of your new projects? Looks like a big project. Once again, great tutorial!
Thank you! I plan to post one someday. Yes! It's for a 12 cell lithium SPI BMS project I'm working on.
there is no boring part on this video all seconds are very informative :D
Nice project, thank you for the hard work you've done, especially for measuring the thermistor resistance value.
thanks for the thermistor value graph. since I don't have programming skills or an Arduino I'll just steeeaaal the graph details to make the analog version. thanks again!
Pretty interesting project, dude! Fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks MC! Stay safe too!
I completely understand how to make this and I WANT to make this, but I literally don't have the knowledge for it. I don't understand technical diagrams/schematics and I would have literally no idea how to tune or find out all the voltages stuff. However, thank you so much for making this video. I hope I can make this some day :')
I gotta say, ever since I saw you on the news about the Filipino kid that invented a device that charges your phone while walking I subscribed on your channel. Great content! Keep it up. That thermal paste hack tho. Touché hahaha galing mo man
I ordered the boards and just waiting for them to come! Thanks
sexier version of great scott's JBC station. looks really good! I can hear eevblog saying "hakko!" hahaha. The hakko connector was the only thing that kept me from making one before. Thanks for including the pinout documentation. I will try to buy a clone and replace the connector with a 4 pin aux. love the vid 💯
Thanks!! Ummm I think the aux might be a bad idea since the contact resistance increases overtime when the surface oxidizes. I suggest using two DC jacks or a 4 pin header connector :) Have fun!
Is that possible with a MOSFET driver and irfz44n, I can't find IRL version. If possible then can you say the frequency needs for MOSFET driver? Please 🥺🙏
This video is awesome! 🥰
You never fail to impress me dude 😍
❤️
This tutorial was what IM looking for a year, thanks for sharing 👍
Why did you run the +5V on the pcb from the Arduino that power's up the LM358 and the LCD display through the A3 pin of the Arduino?, does that not affect something?, and still the schematic doesn't show that connection. And another thing is that driving the mosfet directly from Arduino is not quite ideal because the output is only 5V and the mosfet will not be fully opened and will run a bit hot, you need at least 10 V on the gate.
Another excellent video!! Thumbs up!!❤️😊
Thanks Manny! :D
@@TechBuilderThank you din sir for keeping me inspired! Love your videos!😊
For easier usage i would suggest using Jumpers on the Arduino,
That way you can always Hotswap the arduino if the chip is broken/damaged
У меня сопротивление у датчика всего 1.5 ома (при температуре 30 г). А не 50 ома как у вас. И когда подал напряжение 12в (то что был в руках) сопротивление датчика поднялось до 120 ома (к сожалению не было возможности измерять температуру наконечнике)
Как мне поступить? Хочу повторить проект.
Как я понял надо заново рассчитать сопротивление резисторов да? Не могли бы помочь? Спасибо заранее.
I'm a bit confused about the A1321 heater (honestly): how can a ~3 Ohms resistance device, working at 24V produce no more than 50W? 🤔
I have to revisit my data from years ago. But as far as I could recall, the heater has a positive thermal coefficient (resistance increases as the heater temperature increases). TBH it’s favorable as it can possibly prevent the heater from having a meltdown if thermal runaway occurs.
@@TechBuilder I hear you about the positive thermal coefficient, but, shouldn't the initial power surge (when the station is turned on), be a problem? And it's probably not a short surge, more like several seconds. The resistance probably won't start rising (enough), for 5-10 seconds, and during that time, the heater will draw something like 8-9A.
@@hagartm It can be a problem if the PSU does not have a constant current limit.
I have experienced a problem from a similar project years ago, where the PSU only has a over current cut-off (hiccup mode of OC protection), which made the heater heat up longer compared to a CC regulated PSU. Some laptop chargers have CC regulation or most at least have the Hiccup OC protection.
Full disclosure, the code does not have that initial ramp current limit. The best way to implement this is to add a current sensor and use it as a feedback for PWM control (in turn, this increases complexity). A simpler way to do this without and hardware add-ons is to set an arbitrary PWM duty cycle ramp to control the initial ramp current. To do this effectively, you might have to sit around and gather data on the voltage, current, temp then derive the heater resistance using a spreadsheet. This way you can determine the required PWM duty cycle to limit the ramp current for a period of time.
Mine has been running for 4 years now with regular use, it hasn’t died on me so far, nor had problems with it :) It runs along side my Miniware TS101. I still prefer the Hakko for its grip haha.
@@TechBuilder I hear you about the constant current limit as well, but then, why not simplify the design?? (Not your design, speaking in general terms). Why not run the heater at 9V?! That would make for a 2-3A current draw, and there would be no need for PWM (I'm probably missing something trivial, but it 'is' kinda weird; wish I could find the technical papers for the original Hakko 936 (not the manual, something more in depth)).
@@hagartm I get what you mean. If I could recall correctly, the resistance reaches 11 ohms at 450 degrees C (due to its PTC; thus the 50W rating). Running a lower voltage PSU would work (I used to have a 18V brick attached to it before I upgraded to a 24V one), but doing so would also limit the heater’s maximum heating temperature and ramp up time. This is why I still keep the 907 even though I have the TS101, I programmed my 907 to have a temp limit above 490 degC. (Kinda useful for soldering chunky gauge 10 wires). Whilst it is dangerous, I only go above its intended limit in short periods of time and keep an eye on it.
I ran into a similar problem when I made this project, I couldn’t find graphs on Hakko’s heating element, so I had to evaluate it. You can visit the instructables link in the vid description, there’s a spreadsheet there. I just hope I could tell my younger self to also record the currents along side the thermistor resistance and heater temps hahaha. I hope that sheet helps with your project :)
it's cool that I was able to return to this channel just by searching ASCAS.
Fantastic, you made me go to back to Proteus again (abandoned since 2014). I will try a slight add thinking on using it hours in a real job. I miss someting to reduce temp when device is in support unused waiting for Next solder attempt. I think a LDR placed on the external support could do the job, when dark comes "handle on support" the arduino could pass to económic Mode. When darkness goes away "Handle out of support" back to normal Mode again. Just an additional 2 pin plug for the external LDR and some board modification.
I can use with drill machine battery (18v 5A)? Where we don't have access to electricity.
Most definitely! I sometimes hook up mine with Dewalt and Makita batts.
The thermal paste "hack" was something I didn't expect, and that's awesome!👍 Hope you'll have more projects in the future; we like them😄!
Thanks man! It means a lot!
I would be worried about using thermal paste as most of them degrade around the 300 degree mark
Will this work with the iron Hakko FX888D as I have spare iron will be good to make Arduino station.
im already build this, so far this is the best, now im waiting for another version like t12 😂
That's a freak'n good vid mate! God, I'm glac you did this,thanks alot, A LOT!!!! Just a little question though: can you tell us an average price of the project (without power supply) ?? Thanks again.
What do your heating-element and the inside of the tips look like when you exchange them after having used thermal paste between them? The datasheets of most thermal pastes I could find indicate that they decompose well below common soldering temperatures.
4:23
how long did it take to reach 6.50 V, sir? I always get up down up down readings, and my teacher said I'll get -30 pts if I have deviation :(
Hahahaha LBYEC54 lab PTSD flashbacks 😂 Glad we passed that subj hahahaha
3:15 how much did this PCB cost you? Wouldn't you need to pay fees when claiming the parcel from the post office/philpost?
The best kept secret putting the paste on the inside is genius.
Hi there, can I ask a question ! I'm interested in you project and i've made the exact same things you did but when i plug everything in the IRL4132 heats up very fast , the Preset temp always 525 i cant change it using potentiometer. Please help me if i 've done anything wrong. Thank you !
Hi friend. Thank a lot. Please answer me. I built this project. But I have a problem in handle connecting. The ground pin on the handle should be connected to which point of the board? Because I see 4 point on the board for handle connecting. And I don't see a point for 5th pin on the board ( Ground pin )
Thank you for your project, i made it but for the first while it doesn't work because you have missed the GND wire on you PCB (PDF) and when i added this wire every thing is was ok. So thanks any way.
I've got a spare 15V 3A power brick laying around, is the 12W difference going to be noticeable enough to bother getting another power supply?
For two years I've been using the version 1 with a 18V 2.5A charger, it didn't bother me at all. Really helped me a lot in soldering guage#10 wires and XT60 connectors like a breeze! As for 15V, I'm not that sure. Are you planning to solder chunky stuff? On the other hand, 24 Volts is amazing!
@@TechBuilder I mostly do smaller work, and there's an old weller station that can do the heavier stuff. I'll keep an eye out for a 24V brick next time I need to order some supplies then. Thanks!
Ngayon ko lang ulit naalala to si sir angelo
Napanood ko dati sa tv Yung video nya regarding sa piezoelectric generator
Na amaze ako non kasi nabalita sa tv yon
Naalala ko lang damit nya nung nasa table sya tas nakasalamin sya
Nung hinanap ko ibang video regarding sayo sir nagulat ako hehe
Nakaka inspire sobra hehe mahilig din ako sa electronics, sa mga pangangalikot
Skl hehe, idol ka sir angelo
Btw tanong ko lang po saan kayo na order ng parts niyan sa manila hehe
Salamat sir angelo !
Idol!!
Very good video. However, 3:57 Is IRFZ44N logic level one? I think, no
Good project but ... there are some issues with this setup:
1- The very cheap Hakko clones handles do not have ceramic heaters. I storngly suggest replacing the heating element for the Hakko 1321.
2- If the heating element is a Hakko 1321 (or clone of that) ceramic heating element then the iron will have 50W of power and have JK junction sensors, not thermistors.
3- Even if IRFZ44N is a logic level mosfet (for 5V logic) at least for up to 10A-20A Drain current it requires a drive since you're actuating the mosfet with a PWM cycle. I imagine the PWM cycle could reach 30KHz-50KHz ... so that means a transistor to drive the base is necessary.
4- A simple linear regulator even in a TO-92 package would suffice to be the source power for the arduino and Display there's no need for the module used although of course that works also.
Thanks! I did mention in in the video to replace the clone heating element with an original one, they're pretty cheap too. Yep, other models use thermocouples, the MAX6675 would work well with k-types. The PWM frequency with pin 10 was left on Arduino's default frequency of 490Hz, the IRFZ44N should suffice. I've built three of these already, they're pretty stable. The IRLB4132 on the other hand is my favourite logic level MOSFETs for most PWM projects below 30V. For the regulator, I'm assuming you're referring to the 78L05. Dont forget, that the LCD backlight is relatively power hungry if a linear regulator were to be used for a 24V-5V voltage difference (if vin is bypassed). The system on standby runs at around 0.12A at 5V, at 24V the heat dissipated is around 2.2W, most TO-92 linear regulators are limited to 1W. In my experience these often fail fast when the thermals are neglected. The TO-220 7805 would be a wise choice, but heatsinking would probably be required. Regardless if it was board mounted or D2PAK soldered, it's going to dissipate too much heat. I went with the buck since the specific model to keep the board small, cool and effecient. Bucks are kinda cheap these days :) But I guess there's no stopping on anyone who decides to hotwire a linear reg on the buck pins.
@@TechBuilder If you only use 490Hz then it may be stable since the gate will have time to discharge and charge with not a significant amount of RC dumping effect. But the change for a 1321 ceramic heating element I strongly suggest. It's a big difference specially when it comes to heating times. It heats to the setpoint temperature much faster then those pre-instaled in very cheap 907 handles. And also they're not that expensive.
I also prefer the IRBL4132 but I think I have the same problem you have ... a ton of IRFZ44N lying around waiting to be used :)
About the linear regulator well with the display being a 1602 you're right a TO-220 would be advisable, with a heatsink. Like I said the small buck converter works just fine.
Applying thermal paste is a brilliant idea.
I love the idea of thermal paste inside the tip
Perfection, except for the cringe moment when you used a flat head screw without it being countersunk. 😜
I was like, nooooo.
Thanks! I ran out of round heads of that size :( It was against my will
Friend is here not a PID Control missing ?
because i dont know how i calculate the hakko iron i have 2 edition from the heating element
1. 51 OHM
2. 58 OHM
How i can do the 2 heating elements a1321 passing to calculate good ?
its missing 😞
The inbuilt K type thermocouple measures ADC values against the tip thermometer temperature. This is how you calibrated ? Pls mention the use of k type thermocouple
I'm having a problem. The preset temperature says "cool" even after I turn the potentiometer knob. Why is it?
Hello dear brother,can you help me to give information that,which type of soldering iron is safe for electronics ics and components AC or DC soldering iron?because static electricity makes fault,most of in market ac soldering iron is available,and most person use that for mobile repair also.but i have confussion abopuit which is safe?....
Just learning, Why did you say not to use the IRZ and to use the IRL or the 4132. Could you explain why? Thanks for the video.
Hello bro, I have followed all these tutorials. with slight changes in some of its components. but, why every time I connect it always says cool and tip are very hot?
Your feedback is faulty. I've been emailed with issues similar to yours, as it turns out other clone handles use thermocouples rather than thermistors. This project is designed for thermistor equipped tips and not thermocouple (as found from hakko's original 907 handle sets)
@@TechBuilder so, what can i do?
1.) Test to verify if the handle you have is a thermistor type
2.) Check if the op amp is working
3.) Check for faulty connections
honestly there a lot that could go wrong it's really hard to tell without seeing the ckt. did you breadboard yours or fabricated a custom pcb for it.
@@TechBuilder i use custom pcb
@@TechBuilder if my handle use thermocouple, what the component i need and code for arduino
Top marks for your project, very nice, thanks for sharing.
Hakko 907 irons appear to be impossible to find… do you thing their FX-8801 or even the Weller WEP 70 would work?
Здравствуйте. Понравился ваш проект. Не подскажите, нужна перемычка или нет?
Если она ставится, то +5 вольт попадает на 9 ногу подкинет. А если нет то как записывается микросхема?
Нет ли ошибки в плате?
Hello I made home made pcb with single sided should I do jumper which you given in middle please reply thank you
Hi a question on powersupply problems, it was stays 255 must i minimize that number to 230 than ? Hope for help 😢
Thanks for sharing. The diagram does not show the buck converter though.
Thank you sir..sa pagshare ng knowledge...dami kong natutunan sa mga unang videos ,napakalinis mo gumawa ..GODbless your channel..
Walang anuman! :D
have one question , what is effective cost of all what is needed for this project . Euros or US$ if possible please.
nice project, I am going to try it! I was wondering if there is a diy project for a descent iron tip thermometer... I bought one once but ended up with a "lemon" measuring temps as much as 100 degrees above the actual temp... can you direct me to one such a project, if it exist? thank you much! OR perhaps I could use only the measuring temperature section of the code?
Hi friend, I made the PCB twice but the DC / DC converter always burns out, could you tell me where am I wrong? Thanks.
do you think we can connect the hakko gun? next to making a vacuum pump to make a desoldering station?
Hey dude, can i replace the soldering iron with hakko T-12, if that's possible are i have to change the arduino code ?..pls answer...
Serious question, how does this compares to a hakko soldering station? About the same, superior, inferior? I was sourcing the components and unfortunately it comes about the same price, so I was wondering, if it's about the same or superior I might wanna build this one simply becoz of design and size haha
I wanna use a ntc thermistor because I don’t have ptc thermistor can I use ntc thermistor by tinkering with the code?
I would like to use this to build up a desoldering station. To do so I've bought a desoldering gun already available on the market that I want to heat up with this station. The heater inside the gun is claimed to be 24v 90W but measuring the resistance with a multimeter i found 2 ohm! I was expecting something like 6-7 ohm. Is still possible to use it with your project? I mean considering is a power modulation? Thanks
I like ur video because u finish it with very efficient time. Love u
1000uf 10v to 5v/gnd ????
Did I see where you mentioned it in the video ??
I built it and did it the best that I could to follow the schematic. I purchased the boards from china. Looked at the drawings but couldn't be sure to find out if I had wired the sensor and the heater properly. Something is wrong as the solder even melted with the iron turned all the way down. Try checking the ohms on the sensor and heater and they both run about the same! Can anyone give me a link to an iron that they've made it work? Thanks for any help.
Could you do an upgrade to take a hot air rework station handle as well?
I finally build this project but the temperature reading of sensor stays at cool all time, any solution
Hi i have make the soldering iron and the lcd is bliking when i rotate the potentiometer.
why?
Just finish the project , and the T actual it says "cool" , i mesure the sensor value and on 27 degress c it is 4.2 ohms. so my hakko clone iron is a different
how to change the skech to get working well? 10x
Can i use IRF1010 MOSFET - 60V 84A N-Channel instead of mentioned on the instructable link.
Where should I connect the ground wire for 5 pin connector? Please Help!
hello, can I use MP1584E buck converter instead of MP2303, can't find it in my country. thanks
Can this scheme work with a soldering iron that has a temperature sensor using a thermocouple?
hey its been a year since you uploaded this custom soldering iron video, how about a new one with the headphone jack connector type iron, since its the new design and more efficient than the old cartridge one.
I decided to use a pin header for the connections. Plus, I figured why you are able to disconnect the soldering iron: in case the soldering iron gets destroyed, you can replace it easily.
Why did you put a diode across the heater pins? The heater should basically act as a resistor, so a diode shouldn't be required, right?
It's an extra precaution for people using hakko clone handles. I've read in forums that some heating elements use a coil of nichrome inside the ceramic material, making some inductive as well.
I made this project, but when I turn it on, it does not display the temperature and writes cold. Where does the problem come from? May you help us!
Either from bad wiring or the solder handle’s temp sensor type
@@TechBuilder Could this be modified to run a hakko fm2024 desolder gun? Not the vacuum just the heating element?