Pull out the butt pad or make a lower profile one when you are wearing a helmet. We did this all the time in Porsche Cup. You don't want to be pulling the liner in and out and possibly damaging it. Sweet build man, can't wait to see more progress videos.
Same. But if he is removing the headliner ever track day. That would be a pain in the butt to reconnect. Unless he cuts out a section to install it. But that would take his eyes off the road like how he mentioned. If he installs a roll cage I would install it to that.
@@jtaheri223 Hahah, yeah decent work form the guy, but yes I don;t know WTF is with him but he's super annoying for sure! I actually brought that up a while back on one of his vids hahahaah..Agreed
You are seriously nailing that f40 aesthetic in the interior. Loving it! I do hope that pedal box is able to hold up to the stress of braking under pressure. Looks sturdy though!
Use headliner as a pattern to make a diamond stitched alcantera or vinyl liner glued directly to the roof skin. It will look way better than a traditional headliner and will only be a mil or two thick. My old Datson 280z had diamond stitched (embossed) vinyl glued directly to the metal instead of plastic panel (in some places) from the factory and looked great!
For your headliner, how about quick release bolts, like what air conditioner panels use. 1/2 turn CW or CCW and the panel is back in place or ready to be removed. Great build, BTW
I hear you mate. I worked in a sheet metal factory making industrial spray booths and the amount of times I bent something wrong on the the brake was staggering! Loving the work on this car. Sharing with all my car friends!
Add switches (or functionality thereof) to steering wheel? Not the entire switch panel but the 3/4/5 critical things you might need to adjust whilst fully strapped in and proceeding at a brisk pace? Opens up the opportunity to make Star Wars / Top Gun / Lego Movies sound effects to yourself when you're pushing them. I've got buttons on the steering wheel of my Beemer which I nearly always say "too close for missiles, I'm switching to guns" quietly to myself when I push. I might even get a little twitch from the big fella when I do, but that's my business.
For a point of comparison, my 964RSR came in at 2225 wet and I used factory 96 993 turbo brakes at 322mm. With no cooling they worked great for the light weight of the car. Your brake setup may be more than you need. Also, you may look into the Bosch Motorsport Racing ABS system which will work with your Haltec CAN lines and offers a knob to adjust the amount of ABS sensitivity. It is a great system and will work with your manual brake setup. I’d use 45-48 toothed tone rings depending on your tire diameter stagger. Are you also installing a brake bias knob? I’d highly suggest it if you haven’t thought about it. Do not under estimate the lack of mobility while in the harnesses and the lack of visibility downward while wearing a full face helmet.
For the headliner, I'd pull it out and glue a thin covering up instead. If it's really a mess up there you could always fill it with something lightweight first to give a nice uniform appearance before covering it. Awesome build Mike, keep up the amazing work.
best build on youtube!! one tip for working with laser cut sheet metal, put a 'puzzle piece' shape at the edge of a plate where it meets with a second plate so they are connected. saves time and frustration getting al the pieces together before welding.
I love to see your progress- such an amazing build. For the headliner- couldn't you do like a patch panel just in the area, where your helmet sits with a nice edging and velcro it to the rest of the headliner- so the majority of the headliner can stay in the car and the panels can go out, when on track?
Have you considered lowering the floor pans to add head room. This is a VERY common practice with the DeTomaso Pantera which is similar in both size and construction.
Man I really love seeing well designed parts come together. Nothing is more satisfying than seeing something you designed take shape by your own hands! Safe to say I'm incredibly jealous, you're living my dream man. Great video as always and I love seeing the car become more and more complete.
The build is outta the world cool, head liner delete is practically track ballpark(Carbon headliner), daily driving no .Yah for switch panel, having it arm rest styled position where it is within reach. Lot of love from Singapore and stay safe Bro.
Best episode of the best build I've seen on YT. Excited to see the wheels. Presentation and production values spot on. All bases covered. More and more please. A++++ grateful to you for sharing, it must eat into your time filming and editing 40 minutes per week - just so you know it's appreciated. And if you disagree, you are wrong. The end. Controversial suggestion 1. roof bubble like the original GT40, that's what they did to accomodate helmet, and 2. I sat in an e28 m5 once with period Blaupunk hifi, the graphic equaliser was housed on a flexible mounting "cable" from the floor / transmission tunnel - the pilot could position it wherever they pleased. Love this car.
That wasn't clear at all - it's a Blaupunkt Berlin 8000 (1980) that I'm thinking of. Put the control pad for accessories on a "cable" mount that's sturdy AF whilst being flexible enough to firmly locate it without too many vibrations.
I like big brakes and I cannot lie :) Seriously the pedal mount looks awesome and is beautifully integrated to the OEM area. Nicely done. As for the head room there are some options. The floor is double walled to the skin you see when looking under the car. The surface visible from the cabin is thin fiberglass and you can trim it away to lower the seat about 1-1.5 inches. The mount would stay in the same place and all you would do is lower the seat closer to the inside of the lower skin. While down there you can weld in a support bar for the anti-submarining seat belt and you'll have plenty of space to make it all work. Alternatively or in addition to, the roof liner is fiberglass so it is very easy to cut a relief hole in the head liner for more head clearance. I would assume that as part of the finishing the headliner will be re-trimmed so what you do is glue a piece of material to the inside of the roof skin larger than the relief hole and then nicely edge the hole on the head liner when it is being re-covered. I've seen this done and it looks very nice when installed and will gain you close to an inch of head clearance.
Awesome. My clients often fail to understand that some pieces are impossible to bend, and this explanation really helps. I think that you could gain some roof room using a roof scoop. You could probably make it look nice too, but you'll need to be sure that you head sits below the roll cage top tube. Also, you could gain some room for belts underneath the seat, I guess. Love the build, awesome. Really happy you didn't need to apologize for anything this time hahaha.
I ran press brakes for 12 years and it was always fun to figure out bend sequences on super complex parts. Sometimes with your example shown around the 8 minute mark you have to add a back break and then flatten that out later to get your bend in, although that situation you would have probably done that bend before the other two.
Maybe install the switch panel on the sun visor. You probably removed it, but create a sun visor-like flip down panel? Wire it down through the A-pillar. You can see it, and flip it up when you dont need it. and you keep the rest of the interior clean and minimal
Ceiling mount the button box. Easy to reach, easy to see and out of the way. If it's next to the steering wheel you could hit it turning with your hands or punch it shifting gears. Maybe make a cutout for it in the headliner so the headliner stays easy to remove.
Most folks do not upload on Fridays so this is actually a brilliant move. Not to mention giving yourself less pressure is always good. Enjoy the process bruv.
I cannot wait to see this build completed. Definitely my favorite build I have seen. Could you remove the headliner and spray it with bed liner. I would think it would cover the mess underneath the headliner while increasing the headroom needed for track days. Just a thought. I’m looking forward to Tuesday’s episode!
I ran a 14 foot brake for years. ID and OD dimensions can be critical. As well as thickness. You can easily add or subtract from your piece by mistake...Doing the math on paper looking at a drawing helps a lot. It's not as easy as just bending a piece....I also did a removable headliner using wide velcro strips...It worked great.
consider mounting the buttons above and in front of you, where there sin visor is maybe. and the roof lining can be attached using neodymium magnets. they'll stay in place and can be removed easily. the rotors are meaty goodness
Looking incredible! Can’t wait for the next video already. Street banditos has all wireless buttons on his steering wheel running a K24 in his carbon 240z including ignition! Just a suggestion!
What about pulling the headliner and just adding flocking or carpeting to the bare roof? Should be thinner than the headliner while still covering the metal. Also I agree with other comments about ceiling mounting the switch panel! Been enjoying the build series.
I stumbled onto this series maybe a week ago, so glad I did! I'd seen this car on instagram but didn't know it had a build series, all caught up on watching now. Very impressed on build quality as well as video quality. Keep up the great work!
What a great Friday. Finish work get home watch you building. Great stuff from send cut send. Really not sure on any suggestions for your helmet lol. There is always the possibility of the gt40 style roof bubble. May be roof mount the buttons ? Keep up the great work
Make a small cut out ‘window’ in the head liner just above your head. Re trim and then add a couple of patches of Velcro to the cut out piece so when you get to the track, rip it off and toss it in the back (a couple of pieces of Velcro on the fire wall will keep it from floating around the cabin when stowed) and have the head room you need…. Or even simpler, do the cut out but instead of having a removable piece just glue some of the heading material to the underside of the roof where the cut out window is so you end up with the head room 👍
For that button panel, what about install it on the ceiling? By the rear view mirror? I know it would be a bit meh cutting up the headliner, but i think it would you would be able to reach it, see it and it would give that cool fighter plane feels of flipping switches or buttons on the ceiling.
I like the idea of up and out the the way by the rear view mirror. Not only cause it would look reasonably slick. But be in easy reach and viewable without having to make any effort to see it. Although instead of cutting up the factory headline. Id take the idea of the guy afew comments up. Make a carbon(or fiberglass) headliner. It could be made super thin cause its just decorative to hide the messed up underside of the roof. It would give him that last touch of head room he needs with a helmet on. Plus he could mold a panel wedge in it to put the switch panel not only exactly where he wants it for optimal reaching but angle it so he can read it without moving his head(I'm aware its not needed for driving just would be annoying to have to turn your head up to read the swiches). While still being unintrusive to his viewing angles while driving. Plus he could route the cables in the middle of the headliner back down to the ecu. Wouldn't even know the wires were there. Probably could even get away with just making a mold of the inside of the old headliner to start.
Option for the headliner - Not sure how much space there is between the headliner/roof. But maybe cut a pocket out in the headliner above your head and build a concaved section that rivets to the headliner - then Reupholster in black... Or, carpet the ceiling, maybe even design around any roof supports if the paint looks good.
The pre bedded in discs are such a nice idea! Switches wise, top left corner of the a pillar/roof in front of you? Maybe take the headliner out and cover the roof in a layer of that stretchy carpet stuff you used?
I've been following and loving your build. Great work! You mentioned not wanting the switches to protrude out toward the shifter...what if you made a 4-bar linkage for each side of it with cam handles for locking? Think of it like a scissor lift. This would allow the button panel to be adjusted forward or rearward depending on your driving needs. While using for street use you can unlock the cams and press it toward the dash so it nests in flush then lock the cams handles. When tracking it and you can loosen, pull towards the shifter, and lock in place so it's accessible while you're strapped in. You could incorporate the same geometric shapes of your ECU support bracket into these arms too for continuity throughout the car.
What about placing the button box on the door panel.. Roughly like rally car on codriver side where they place codriver tripmeter and such on the door panel... Kind of cool as well if it can be fitted that way
Mount the switch panel to the center of the steering wheel, like an F1 car. For the headliner, cut out a section where your helmet would be and trim it out to match. It would be mostly invisible yet give you what you need without removing and reinstalling it every time.
Such a slick build, been enjoying the process. I would mount the switches on the headliner as others have suggested, near the rear view mirror and built out and down a little. As for the headliner, if you are not dead set on maintaining a "factory" look, why not just cut out even holes through to the roof skin on both the passenger and driver side of the headliner. Then finish the holes with some trim and straight up glue the same fabric to the roof skin where the holes expose it. It should look pretty sweet and also give you a half inch or so of clearance without the need to constantly pull it out and put it back in.
I think coming off the dash would look really good and give you the best view, but personal preference obviously. The spartan style of that interior looks so good.
Nice one, the car is Turning out sick. You could pull the headliner and glue some alcantara directly to the roof skin to hide the ugly. Might give you a little extra room. Also if you decided to roof mount the switches you could have the fabric cover whatever you made to mount the switch panel. I think that would look pretty clean.
It's going well dude. So well!!! . As for the control pad would it be a no to maybe making a false sunvisor and mounting the touch pad to it . Or to try blend it maybe you could make a custom pan rear view mirror spanning the windscreen and somehow integrating it. Still reach could be a issue
Tip on the bends too. On thicker parts having small rectangles cut out in the middle of the part will help the parts bend easier. Depends on how structural it is of course.
On a detail drawing of the flat pattern of that part fusion will have bend notes telling you up or down and the angle. I too have designed myself into a corner with bends even on a finger bread. 2 bends that meet at a corner both 90s is always a pain. Pedalbox looks great!!!
Serious suggestions You may need to put the vehicle on a rotisserie to do this but pull the head liner and replace it with some shaped foam. Possibly coat the roof in lizard skin or whatever they call the insulating sound deadening coat first then spray in some foam and shape it to accommodate your helmet and a roof console between the sun visors that you can reach while strapped in. Spray on some flock or stick on some suitable fabric and you’re cooking with gas.
Just marvelous project Mike !!!! I suggest you a full gage rollbar. Middle engine cars are dangerous, just see GT Racing series accidents of Ferraris, Lambos....Nose ripped off and engine and rear end sheared off. Only the gage is left. Cheers
You should roof mount the switch panel. It would look totally cool and keep it out of the way! Just fix up the roof and pull the headliner. It will be worth it in the long run IMHO. Love this build, I wish I had the guts to do something this radical to my 83 Turbo Esprit!
You can modify the headliner by cutting away the area where the helmet will touch, then glue some alcantara directly on roof metal, then wrap the headliner with the same alcantara and fit it back in, should look nice and neat with extra headroom needed :) hope you get the idea :)
I'm not sure about Fusion, but when I use Solidworks I print out the flat layout on paper and craft glue it to the piece of sheet metal so it calls out the up or down and angle, that why I can't screw it up.
Carbon fiber bond the roof with Alcantara overlay (from inside the cab) 🤔. It will serve 3 purposes. 1. Structural rigidity 2. Clearance for the helmet and 3. It would look sick!!!!
For the roofliner just put a thin layer of black carpet, it is a race car, esthetic is secondary. For the Button panel the best best would be something that come forward on the right of the steering wheel. That way your right hand can access easily. It’s mounted that way on all GT race cars.
Are you planning on installing a roll cage? If so you could have a center brace going next to the to the middle of the vehicle you can mount like a bracket assembly that connects to the center bar and comes up next to the shifter. You could run the wires through the roll cage for a clean look.
Mike, congrats again to a fabulous build! Even though I'm a Ferrari engine enthusiast, I'm thrilled by your choice of engine. I'm a great admirer of Japanese engineering too and this piece of Honda art rhymes very well with your striving for lightweight. With a structurally well integrated roll cage to the chassis, you'll achieve incredible stiffness.
Great progress! Have been following you since the early days of your stanceworks blog. For the headliner, maybe make just the part above you removable? You cut out a square big enough for your helmet and attach it with velcro or something to the roof. Should not be very noticiable and saves headache on removing the whole headliner. Keep it up! :)
How about just cutting out a small section of the headliner above your head - you could glue some very thin, colour matched, carpet or felt in it's place. I'm guessing the headliner would quickly get messed up from continually removing and replacing it. Really loving the build Mike ;-)
It may sound dumb but in the situation where you were installing the ecu bracket, sometimes in these situations the easy hold method is use a dab of super glue around the bolt/end of bolt push through the hole let it dry (takes 1min) all it has to do is give you enough stability on the bolt from moving to just enough to get a nut on then use tools as required
That brings back memories from when I first picked up a set of rotors - a lot more weight than I thought :-D And those were just 302mm standard OEM grade vented discs.
Could you mould a bubble into the roof liner so your helmet can sit up into it? Like the bubble roofs on 60,70s sports cars,but in the liner,so tbe exterior roof panel stays factory. This would of course,be only capable if the section above your head has a gap to the roof panel. Bonus,dont have to remove it,and still will hide the ugly roof that you mentioned. Killer build man,right from EP 1,been hanging for each new EP.Fave build on YT
Gurney Bubble would be awesome! Or, instead of the entire headliner, couldn't you make a panel over your head (like the sunshades from old t-top cars) that pops out with a couple of twist knobs?
The brake we had at a place i used to work had removable front plates, that you could move by losening them with a wrench, it was great for when you had weird shapes, we also had a brake press, for 90 degree pieces, with a small head, it was perfect for these small parts.
Some great progress there. The interior is definitely coming together nicely and looking very F40-esk. That the placement of that keyboard is a bit of a pain though.
You might want to mount the switchpad on a tube that bolts from the floor and does a sort of J curve up on a ~75 degree bend facing you, kind of like keypads for gate entrances. You can then just run the cabling through the tube and it might look nice, just depends if you like that or not. If you set it between the shifter and dash you'll probably have an easier time reaching it than it being in front of the shifter, where your arm might get blocked by the seat.
I'd remove the headliner and glue in a thin (light) low-profile carpet to increase headroom and not have to deal with pulling the factory piece in and out (which will be a PITA with the roll bar in place). Probably look better too. Use black to reduce light glare.
Also for the switches, mount them on top of the windshield. Mostly out of sight and easy for you to utilize and see, but not so noticeable from outside the car for a cleaner look. Might want to use a different panel, maybe something a little longer and narrower.
About the headliner install some quart turn or push release mounts in place of the rivets. Or remove the headliner and glue some alcantara fabric onto the roof.
Pull out the butt pad or make a lower profile one when you are wearing a helmet. We did this all the time in Porsche Cup. You don't want to be pulling the liner in and out and possibly damaging it. Sweet build man, can't wait to see more progress videos.
What about trying to mount the switches “a la Maclaren” in the headliner? Great content by the way!
Exactly! 80's sci-fi knight rider style!
I thought he would have brought it up.
My thoughts exactly right where a sun visor would sit
Was gonna comment the same. Jet style roof mount.
Be easier to see/use whilst wearing a helmet with a HANS setup too.
Same. But if he is removing the headliner ever track day. That would be a pain in the butt to reconnect. Unless he cuts out a section to install it. But that would take his eyes off the road like how he mentioned. If he installs a roll cage I would install it to that.
No doubt the best car build on TH-cam.
lol! you got low fkn standards! Have you seen some of these build on YT fkn crazy these days! Makes this look simple AF!
It is really good! I just can’t help hearing Kermit D Frog in his voice, respectfully 🤣
@@jtaheri223 Hahah, yeah decent work form the guy, but yes I don;t know WTF is with him but he's super annoying for sure! I actually brought that up a while back on one of his vids hahahaah..Agreed
Agreed. Goat
@@BUZDRIFT lol don't watch then, why spread hate
You are seriously nailing that f40 aesthetic in the interior. Loving it! I do hope that pedal box is able to hold up to the stress of braking under pressure. Looks sturdy though!
Use headliner as a pattern to make a diamond stitched alcantera or vinyl liner glued directly to the roof skin. It will look way better than a traditional headliner and will only be a mil or two thick. My old Datson 280z had diamond stitched (embossed) vinyl glued directly to the metal instead of plastic panel (in some places) from the factory and looked great!
Gurney bubble the roof! That would be the absolute coolest.
For your headliner, how about quick release bolts, like what air conditioner panels use. 1/2 turn CW or CCW and the panel is back in place or ready to be removed.
Great build, BTW
dzus fasteners?
@@grendelum
Thanks…. I did not know the name of them. 😎
Zeus clips..
Damn that’s a great idea
Dzus
I hear you mate. I worked in a sheet metal factory making industrial spray booths and the amount of times I bent something wrong on the the brake was staggering!
Loving the work on this car. Sharing with all my car friends!
Add switches (or functionality thereof) to steering wheel? Not the entire switch panel but the 3/4/5 critical things you might need to adjust whilst fully strapped in and proceeding at a brisk pace? Opens up the opportunity to make Star Wars / Top Gun / Lego Movies sound effects to yourself when you're pushing them. I've got buttons on the steering wheel of my Beemer which I nearly always say "too close for missiles, I'm switching to guns" quietly to myself when I push. I might even get a little twitch from the big fella when I do, but that's my business.
What about THAT and switches on the door card??
"Oh, you're pushing *those* buttons again?? I like dat 😈"
-Mick AWE's donger probably
For a point of comparison, my 964RSR came in at 2225 wet and I used factory 96 993 turbo brakes at 322mm. With no cooling they worked great for the light weight of the car. Your brake setup may be more than you need. Also, you may look into the Bosch Motorsport Racing ABS system which will work with your Haltec CAN lines and offers a knob to adjust the amount of ABS sensitivity. It is a great system and will work with your manual brake setup. I’d use 45-48 toothed tone rings depending on your tire diameter stagger. Are you also installing a brake bias knob? I’d highly suggest it if you haven’t thought about it. Do not under estimate the lack of mobility while in the harnesses and the lack of visibility downward while wearing a full face helmet.
This is the only channel I truly look fwd to. This is straight food for car fabricators and real builders. 👌
Mike, in my lotus exige the headliner is glued directly to the roof with a padded alcantara. Might be a good option to save a few mm
I have the same solution on my rally 308.
Best option!!!
Honestly between this and the Tesla Swapped C10, I get most of my entertainment. Thanks for sharing this with all of us!
For the headliner, I'd pull it out and glue a thin covering up instead. If it's really a mess up there you could always fill it with something lightweight first to give a nice uniform appearance before covering it.
Awesome build Mike, keep up the amazing work.
best build on youtube!! one tip for working with laser cut sheet metal, put a 'puzzle piece' shape at the edge of a plate where it meets with a second plate so they are connected. saves time and frustration getting al the pieces together before welding.
I love to see your progress- such an amazing build. For the headliner- couldn't you do like a patch panel just in the area, where your helmet sits with a nice edging and velcro it to the rest of the headliner- so the majority of the headliner can stay in the car and the panels can go out, when on track?
I like the panel overhead idea, but I was thinking a sliding panel, similar to a sunroof shade.
I literally said the same thing haha didn't see this comment till after tho!
Have you considered lowering the floor pans to add head room. This is a VERY common practice with the DeTomaso Pantera which is similar in both size and construction.
I think this is a good idea. The super lay back seat position will be such an odd leg angle to the pedals, with the current seat anyway.
Exactly what I did on my rally 308. Don't forget to add a strong bash plate underneath to protect your bottom!
That ECU mount setup is beautiful and I like the seat mounts as well. Pretty smart to put those little cuts to tell you where to bend it later.
Man I really love seeing well designed parts come together. Nothing is more satisfying than seeing something you designed take shape by your own hands! Safe to say I'm incredibly jealous, you're living my dream man.
Great video as always and I love seeing the car become more and more complete.
The build is outta the world cool, head liner delete is practically track ballpark(Carbon headliner), daily driving no .Yah for switch panel, having it arm rest styled position where it is within reach. Lot of love from Singapore and stay safe Bro.
Best episode of the best build I've seen on YT. Excited to see the wheels. Presentation and production values spot on. All bases covered. More and more please. A++++ grateful to you for sharing, it must eat into your time filming and editing 40 minutes per week - just so you know it's appreciated.
And if you disagree, you are wrong.
The end.
Controversial suggestion 1. roof bubble like the original GT40, that's what they did to accomodate helmet, and 2. I sat in an e28 m5 once with period Blaupunk hifi, the graphic equaliser was housed on a flexible mounting "cable" from the floor / transmission tunnel - the pilot could position it wherever they pleased.
Love this car.
That wasn't clear at all - it's a Blaupunkt Berlin 8000 (1980) that I'm thinking of. Put the control pad for accessories on a "cable" mount that's sturdy AF whilst being flexible enough to firmly locate it without too many vibrations.
Don't take the whole headlining out, just make a helmet shaped headlining 'porthole' that drops at the track
I like big brakes and I cannot lie :)
Seriously the pedal mount looks awesome and is beautifully integrated to the OEM area. Nicely done.
As for the head room there are some options. The floor is double walled to the skin you see when looking under the car. The surface visible from the cabin is thin fiberglass and you can trim it away to lower the seat about 1-1.5 inches. The mount would stay in the same place and all you would do is lower the seat closer to the inside of the lower skin. While down there you can weld in a support bar for the anti-submarining seat belt and you'll have plenty of space to make it all work.
Alternatively or in addition to, the roof liner is fiberglass so it is very easy to cut a relief hole in the head liner for more head clearance. I would assume that as part of the finishing the headliner will be re-trimmed so what you do is glue a piece of material to the inside of the roof skin larger than the relief hole and then nicely edge the hole on the head liner when it is being re-covered. I've seen this done and it looks very nice when installed and will gain you close to an inch of head clearance.
Awesome. My clients often fail to understand that some pieces are impossible to bend, and this explanation really helps.
I think that you could gain some roof room using a roof scoop. You could probably make it look nice too, but you'll need to be sure that you head sits below the roll cage top tube. Also, you could gain some room for belts underneath the seat, I guess.
Love the build, awesome. Really happy you didn't need to apologize for anything this time hahaha.
I ran press brakes for 12 years and it was always fun to figure out bend sequences on super complex parts. Sometimes with your example shown around the 8 minute mark you have to add a back break and then flatten that out later to get your bend in, although that situation you would have probably done that bend before the other two.
Maybe install the switch panel on the sun visor. You probably removed it, but create a sun visor-like flip down panel? Wire it down through the A-pillar. You can see it, and flip it up when you dont need it. and you keep the rest of the interior clean and minimal
Ceiling mount the button box. Easy to reach, easy to see and out of the way. If it's next to the steering wheel you could hit it turning with your hands or punch it shifting gears. Maybe make a cutout for it in the headliner so the headliner stays easy to remove.
Most folks do not upload on Fridays so this is actually a brilliant move. Not to mention giving yourself less pressure is always good. Enjoy the process bruv.
I cannot wait to see this build completed. Definitely my favorite build I have seen. Could you remove the headliner and spray it with bed liner. I would think it would cover the mess underneath the headliner while increasing the headroom needed for track days. Just a thought. I’m looking forward to Tuesday’s episode!
Man... The car is coming along! Can't wait to see it complete! The seat looks perfect! Those brakes are freaking massive!!
Just put a Gurney bubble in it 😂 love the build man!
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite builds, love the fact you go out of the box with EVERYTHING!
I ran a 14 foot brake for years. ID and OD dimensions can be critical. As well as thickness. You can easily add or subtract from your piece by mistake...Doing the math on paper looking at a drawing helps a lot. It's not as easy as just bending a piece....I also did a removable headliner using wide velcro strips...It worked great.
The best peddle box in the whole wide world ! It looks professional.
consider mounting the buttons above and in front of you, where there sin visor is maybe.
and the roof lining can be attached using neodymium magnets. they'll stay in place and can be removed easily.
the rotors are meaty goodness
Looking incredible! Can’t wait for the next video already. Street banditos has all wireless buttons on his steering wheel running a K24 in his carbon 240z including ignition! Just a suggestion!
What about pulling the headliner and just adding flocking or carpeting to the bare roof? Should be thinner than the headliner while still covering the metal. Also I agree with other comments about ceiling mounting the switch panel! Been enjoying the build series.
I stumbled onto this series maybe a week ago, so glad I did! I'd seen this car on instagram but didn't know it had a build series, all caught up on watching now. Very impressed on build quality as well as video quality. Keep up the great work!
What a great Friday. Finish work get home watch you building.
Great stuff from send cut send. Really not sure on any suggestions for your helmet lol. There is always the possibility of the gt40 style roof bubble.
May be roof mount the buttons ?
Keep up the great work
I’ve used magnets on my headliners in a similar issue I had.
Make a small cut out ‘window’ in the head liner just above your head. Re trim and then add a couple of patches of Velcro to the cut out piece so when you get to the track, rip it off and toss it in the back (a couple of pieces of Velcro on the fire wall will keep it from floating around the cabin when stowed) and have the head room you need….
Or even simpler, do the cut out but instead of having a removable piece just glue some of the heading material to the underside of the roof where the cut out window is so you end up with the head room 👍
For that button panel, what about install it on the ceiling? By the rear view mirror? I know it would be a bit meh cutting up the headliner, but i think it would you would be able to reach it, see it and it would give that cool fighter plane feels of flipping switches or buttons on the ceiling.
I like the idea of up and out the the way by the rear view mirror. Not only cause it would look reasonably slick. But be in easy reach and viewable without having to make any effort to see it. Although instead of cutting up the factory headline. Id take the idea of the guy afew comments up. Make a carbon(or fiberglass) headliner. It could be made super thin cause its just decorative to hide the messed up underside of the roof. It would give him that last touch of head room he needs with a helmet on. Plus he could mold a panel wedge in it to put the switch panel not only exactly where he wants it for optimal reaching but angle it so he can read it without moving his head(I'm aware its not needed for driving just would be annoying to have to turn your head up to read the swiches). While still being unintrusive to his viewing angles while driving. Plus he could route the cables in the middle of the headliner back down to the ecu. Wouldn't even know the wires were there. Probably could even get away with just making a mold of the inside of the old headliner to start.
Option for the headliner - Not sure how much space there is between the headliner/roof. But maybe cut a pocket out in the headliner above your head and build a concaved section that rivets to the headliner - then Reupholster in black... Or, carpet the ceiling, maybe even design around any roof supports if the paint looks good.
The quality of your videos are next level. So detailed and your work is truly EPIC. Look forward to the next one. Greetings from Poland!
Watching that pedal box brace piece slide in place is incredibly satisfying. 🤝
that bend line nick is really smart! i will definitely do that if i send another order to sendcutsend
The pre bedded in discs are such a nice idea!
Switches wise, top left corner of the a pillar/roof in front of you?
Maybe take the headliner out and cover the roof in a layer of that stretchy carpet stuff you used?
That peddle box came together amazingly. I hope it doesn’t give you any problems in the future. Excited to see what’s next!
I've been following and loving your build. Great work! You mentioned not wanting the switches to protrude out toward the shifter...what if you made a 4-bar linkage for each side of it with cam handles for locking? Think of it like a scissor lift. This would allow the button panel to be adjusted forward or rearward depending on your driving needs. While using for street use you can unlock the cams and press it toward the dash so it nests in flush then lock the cams handles. When tracking it and you can loosen, pull towards the shifter, and lock in place so it's accessible while you're strapped in. You could incorporate the same geometric shapes of your ECU support bracket into these arms too for continuity throughout the car.
You should put the switch panel on the roof, and go full fighter pilot mide when you enter your racecar!!! 😍😍😍 Loving the build!! 😌👍🏻👍🏻
What about placing the button box on the door panel..
Roughly like rally car on codriver side where they place codriver tripmeter and such on the door panel...
Kind of cool as well if it can be fitted that way
If you cut slots in the plates on the bend line, they will bend easier. Just weld after. A bit more work, but easier. Or pre-heat the plate first
Dude the way the seat and the symmetrical holes on the bracket look, gawdamn 🤘🏻🔥
Mount the switch panel to the center of the steering wheel, like an F1 car. For the headliner, cut out a section where your helmet would be and trim it out to match. It would be mostly invisible yet give you what you need without removing and reinstalling it every time.
Such a slick build, been enjoying the process. I would mount the switches on the headliner as others have suggested, near the rear view mirror and built out and down a little. As for the headliner, if you are not dead set on maintaining a "factory" look, why not just cut out even holes through to the roof skin on both the passenger and driver side of the headliner. Then finish the holes with some trim and straight up glue the same fabric to the roof skin where the holes expose it. It should look pretty sweet and also give you a half inch or so of clearance without the need to constantly pull it out and put it back in.
I think coming off the dash would look really good and give you the best view, but personal preference obviously.
The spartan style of that interior looks so good.
Nice one, the car is Turning out sick. You could pull the headliner and glue some alcantara directly to the roof skin to hide the ugly. Might give you a little extra room. Also if you decided to roof mount the switches you could have the fabric cover whatever you made to mount the switch panel. I think that would look pretty clean.
It's going well dude. So well!!! .
As for the control pad would it be a no to maybe making a false sunvisor and mounting the touch pad to it . Or to try blend it maybe you could make a custom pan rear view mirror spanning the windscreen and somehow integrating it.
Still reach could be a issue
Tip on the bends too. On thicker parts having small rectangles cut out in the middle of the part will help the parts bend easier. Depends on how structural it is of course.
On a detail drawing of the flat pattern of that part fusion will have bend notes telling you up or down and the angle. I too have designed myself into a corner with bends even on a finger bread. 2 bends that meet at a corner both 90s is always a pain.
Pedalbox looks great!!!
I really like the pedal box, too. . . Nice work.
Serious suggestions
You may need to put the vehicle on a rotisserie to do this but pull the head liner and replace it with some shaped foam.
Possibly coat the roof in lizard skin or whatever they call the insulating sound deadening coat first then spray in some foam and shape it to accommodate your helmet and a roof console between the sun visors that you can reach while strapped in.
Spray on some flock or stick on some suitable fabric and you’re cooking with gas.
Man, the interior looks so good! Cant wait for the next episode!
Wouaw, love the calipers 🏁 Keep going, the build is amazing !
Just marvelous project Mike !!!! I suggest you a full gage rollbar. Middle engine cars are dangerous, just see GT Racing series accidents of Ferraris, Lambos....Nose ripped off and engine and rear end sheared off. Only the gage is left. Cheers
You should roof mount the switch panel. It would look totally cool and keep it out of the way! Just fix up the roof and pull the headliner. It will be worth it in the long run IMHO. Love this build, I wish I had the guts to do something this radical to my 83 Turbo Esprit!
This pedal box you designed looks SICK! Very nice build! Really loving the build and your attention to the detail is really good. My OCD aproves :D
You can modify the headliner by cutting away the area where the helmet will touch, then glue some alcantara directly on roof metal, then wrap the headliner with the same alcantara and fit it back in, should look nice and neat with extra headroom needed :) hope you get the idea :)
I'm not sure about Fusion, but when I use Solidworks I print out the flat layout on paper and craft glue it to the piece of sheet metal so it calls out the up or down and angle, that why I can't screw it up.
roof mount the panel! and put in a helmet bubble in like Ford did on the GT-40. then you can mold the headliner to fit and never have to remove it.
good work on the pedal box! thats some great engineering and fab
Carbon fiber bond the roof with Alcantara overlay (from inside the cab) 🤔. It will serve 3 purposes. 1. Structural rigidity 2. Clearance for the helmet and 3. It would look sick!!!!
Nice work Mike! Pedal box turned out great! Love your builds dude-
For the roofliner just put a thin layer of black carpet, it is a race car, esthetic is secondary. For the Button panel the best best would be something that come forward on the right of the steering wheel. That way your right hand can access easily. It’s mounted that way on all GT race cars.
Again. Just amazing progress. What a project!
Put the botton panel on the roof!!! With like a hinge so u can put it flat with the liner or slightly tilted!
Was about to recomend the notches for bend guides. We do the same for all our laser cut items where I work
The pieces came in 😍
Re watched your autofocus on the rod, makes me hyped for the new set up
Are you planning on installing a roll cage? If so you could have a center brace going next to the to the middle of the vehicle you can mount like a bracket assembly that connects to the center bar and comes up next to the shifter. You could run the wires through the roll cage for a clean look.
You could possibly put the switch panel up near the rear vision mirror/sun visor.
Man this build is beyond amazing.
Mike, congrats again to a fabulous build! Even though I'm a Ferrari engine enthusiast, I'm thrilled by your choice of engine. I'm a great admirer of Japanese engineering too and this piece of Honda art rhymes very well with your striving for lightweight. With a structurally well integrated roll cage to the chassis, you'll achieve incredible stiffness.
Great progress! Have been following you since the early days of your stanceworks blog.
For the headliner, maybe make just the part above you removable? You cut out a square big enough for your helmet and attach it with velcro or something to the roof. Should not be very noticiable and saves headache on removing the whole headliner.
Keep it up! :)
The pedal box turned out excellent. Congrats!
How about just cutting out a small section of the headliner above your head - you could glue some very thin, colour matched, carpet or felt in it's place. I'm guessing the headliner would quickly get messed up from continually removing and replacing it. Really loving the build Mike ;-)
It may sound dumb but in the situation where you were installing the ecu bracket, sometimes in these situations the easy hold method is use a dab of super glue around the bolt/end of bolt push through the hole let it dry (takes 1min) all it has to do is give you enough stability on the bolt from moving to just enough to get a nut on then use tools as required
That brings back memories from when I first picked up a set of rotors - a lot more weight than I thought :-D And those were just 302mm standard OEM grade vented discs.
Bad day at work ? Nothing like a StanceWorks video to make you feel better.
Could you mould a bubble into the roof liner so your helmet can sit up into it?
Like the bubble roofs on 60,70s sports cars,but in the liner,so tbe exterior roof panel stays factory.
This would of course,be only capable if the section above your head has a gap to the roof panel.
Bonus,dont have to remove it,and still will hide the ugly roof that you mentioned.
Killer build man,right from EP 1,been hanging for each new EP.Fave build on YT
Gurney Bubble would be awesome! Or, instead of the entire headliner, couldn't you make a panel over your head (like the sunshades from old t-top cars) that pops out with a couple of twist knobs?
You deserve more views and more subs man, this is unreal
Placing the switches on the roof (like in airplane cockpit) would be sick AF
Just joining the crowd that says this is the best build currently out there. (That I know of.) Thank you!
The brake we had at a place i used to work had removable front plates, that you could move by losening them with a wrench, it was great for when you had weird shapes, we also had a brake press, for 90 degree pieces, with a small head, it was perfect for these small parts.
Some great progress there. The interior is definitely coming together nicely and looking very F40-esk. That the placement of that keyboard is a bit of a pain though.
You might want to mount the switchpad on a tube that bolts from the floor and does a sort of J curve up on a ~75 degree bend facing you, kind of like keypads for gate entrances. You can then just run the cabling through the tube and it might look nice, just depends if you like that or not. If you set it between the shifter and dash you'll probably have an easier time reaching it than it being in front of the shifter, where your arm might get blocked by the seat.
I'd remove the headliner and glue in a thin (light) low-profile carpet to increase headroom and not have to deal with pulling the factory piece in and out (which will be a PITA with the roll bar in place). Probably look better too. Use black to reduce light glare.
Also for the switches, mount them on top of the windshield. Mostly out of sight and easy for you to utilize and see, but not so noticeable from outside the car for a cleaner look. Might want to use a different panel, maybe something a little longer and narrower.
I love this project. 👍
Best regards from germany. ✋
really enjoying the build, it is certainly one of the best and well done as well
About the headliner install some quart turn or push release mounts in place of the rivets. Or remove the headliner and glue some alcantara fabric onto the roof.