Things I used in this video: 1. OTC Scan Tool: amzn.to/2BIwPtc 2. Compression Tester: amzn.to/2BNgdAG 3. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY 4. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 5. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 6. Common Sense 7. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 8. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 9. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 10. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Your videos has kept my $150 pathfinder running like a champ with over 255k on it,so far I've only down routine maintenance like breaks, shocks and tires.
I changed it scotty. I took for a ride and car runs smooth. Doing some Christmas shopping right now. It still give me check engine light reads p1193 oxygen sensor. I can always change this after the holiday. Oh, I took the wipers off, the whole wiper motor and fire wall so I can get to the back. Thank you scotty
the ignition is disabled on that model as soon as you remove the coil assembly to get to the spark plugs. And you can check compression with throttle open or closed, doesn't really matter, it's only the pressure difference that really matters.
check the wiring to the plug, pray something's bent or shorted out. If not, a bad main computer often will cause that, or a shorted out sensor anywhere on the computer sensor system
make sure you have the right spark plugs that are gapped correctly first. And if you cracked any plugs putting em in, that will do it for sure, take em all out and check for cracks in the porcelin
It'd be cool to get your input on this suggestion Scotty, so that I'm not just a random person with a random tip promoting some "miracle fix" product. Heck, even if you know some big problems with restore, I'd like to hear them! Thanks for your time Scotty and thanks for all the videos you make! You've saved me thousands!
you do a leakdown for a more complex analysis. this shows an internal problem, and on this junker saturn the owner was going no further so it was good enough.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. Just go to my scotty kilmer channel on youtube saturday morning at 10, and click on the google plus icon on the top right corner. That takes you to the event where you can ask me questions Live. You do have to be a member of google plus, but that's free and you can just google "join google plus" for that. thanks,
I had the same problem shortly after having my transmission rebuilt. I brought it back because my regular mechanic said it was the transmission. The guys at the transmission shop said it was an engine misfire and I could only feel it in high gear because the torque converter absorbed the shock until it locked in high gear. It turned out to be a cracked spark plug. It's a 97 olds 88. No problems in over a year anyway.
many things cause misfire on those, but vapor coming out the back is generally leaking fuel injectors, or a blown head gasket. Do my test "how to tell if your head gasket is blown" first
1.8 celica, no problems at all. But do test the transmission and do a compression test of the engine before buying to see if it's been maintained. Any car will fall apart without oil changes
Are you kidding? They want people to watch all the advertisements, and the advertisers want people to watch them, google is the biggest advertising company in the world today. Telling people to do so is exactly what anyone making them would want.
no idea, I never swap different stuff as it often leads to intense headaches that never go away. Ask some junk yard dudes, they're always trying stuff like that
that's the code for engine position problem bank one. It means the engine has a mechanical problem somewhere on bank one of the engine, the bank that includes the number one cylinder (that's how they label them). good luck on that one
it was for this one, but I've seen some with 200 thousand on em and still running, though they weren't Ions, they were earlier ones. Ions pretty much finished off Saturn as a maker.
air flow often is changed on new heads, so they will often suck air differently and make such whooping noises, I see that a lot. if it runs fine, it means nothing. But often cleaning the throttle can stop it if build up is causing it.
Evening Scotty I have a Misfire code P0304 Together with a P0100, I HAVE CHECKED COILS SPARK PLUGS AND Engine pressure, And Everything is perfect. ... The only thing that is very weird, is that Sometimes IT SMELL LIKE GAS .....THINKING I HAVE A CLOGGED INJECTOR OR BAD FUEL REGULATOR. THANKS LOVE YOUR CHANNEL
My sister's first car was a 1995 Saturn SL2. This exact thing happened when the car reached 120k miles. We towed it to the scrap yard and the scrap yard handed my sister 350 dollars. She was happy with that since she only gave 800 dollars for the car and got a good year and a half out of it. Now she drives a 1998 Toyota Camry that just won't quit.
I'm in the process of repairing a misfire on my 2000 Ford E-150 4.2L. Kept getting code PO305. Plug, wire, coil, & injector all checked out good as well as vacuum and compression test. Turned out to be clogged EGR ports in the lower intake manifold for all cylinders except cylinder #5 sending the exhaust gas intended for all six cylinders to only cylinder #5 resulting in the misfire.
Very true, I learned that the hard way. START off with a compression test before doing anything else. It's the cheapest thing to do and tells if you should just junk it
check the belts of course, and check what they drive, such as water pumps and alternators. Sometimes removing the belts and hand checking the pulleys will find the problem
yea, pray like mad it doesn't have any serious problems. I would go on a 15 minute trip first, then check for leaks and noises before starting on the big trip.
Probably the type of oil. For instance in a 5w30 oil the 5 stands for the weight of the oil when cold, and the 30 is for when it is at running temperature. If the car has something like a 10w30 oil, try running a 5w30 as it will get around the engine better when cold.
That pop is a back fire. Seems to me like something is interfering with airflow in the combustion chamber. Excessive carbon deposits can lead to misfires. Check your positive crankcase ventilation valve or PCV to make sure it's not stuck closed. Also, a malfunctioning idle control valve could also lead to misfire and cause your engine to burn very rich at idlle.
Love the video's scotty. I had one of these (Engines Misfire, P0301) Codes last year on a 05 hyundai elantra. I did a tune up to the car my self. After getting it out of the garage I noticed check engine light on with this p0301 code. Although the car seemed to run fine the code would not go away even after using a scan tool to delete it.
noises can be hard to pinpoint. But, remove the fan belts and run it, if the noise goes away, figure out what device the belts drive that has worn bearings in it
frame straightening has to be done by a pro with a VERY expensive frame machine. MANY things can be damaged from a wreck, but motor and transmission mounts cracking is number one, so check that.
often it's actually bad fuel injectors or the lines that feed them, all plastic parts on that. BUT, if they were all changed, intake vacuum leaks can do that. See my video "finding engine vacuum leaks with a cigar"
check the carburetor or fuel injection system, whichever it runs, they don't sell em here. either carb needs overhauling or fuel injection system is leaking injectors badly using that much fuel
Scotty I have 1994 camry 4 cyl That has 162k miles, the problem with it is it misfires while on the highway on a speed of approximately 45 miles, and when I hit the gas it gets stubborn, but it idles perfectly when I stop it. Changed the following parts:Air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs & it's wires, cleaned throttle body & it's sensors electronics cleaner There was oil along the plugs so I changed the rubber plugs & valve head gasket
I actually paid 350 bucks for it. i did have to put 800 dollars in paint and body for a new fender that was smashed and some paint work, as I don't do body work.
often bad fuel injectors do that, as does a bad distributor. Check the ignition system first. If not that, try my video "how to clean fuel injectors on your car"
na, cause it's not worth fixing either way. On this timing chain engine, even a head gasket job alone is over a thousand dollars. But one can do that to find out.
Scotty I have a 2015 hyundai elantra we've replaced the spark plugs, air filter, Cabin filter, we even put fuel treatment in it and it misfires on its first crank every time. We did not replace coils. But car runs fine but for some reason it keeps misfiring on the first crank and then you crank it again and it starts up just fine. I have it on my channel if you want to watch and see for yourself.
I'm in UK here. Got a Chrysler crossfire booked in with a mercedes 3.2 AMG E32 engine. Misfire on number 6 intermittent fault. Usual scenario swapped 2 plugs for next cylinder as there's 12 on this engine, swapped leads ect. Carried out compression test all good. All mixture adaptions correct and lambda. Manifold vacuum correct, I suspect a sticking valve, as your from the place they are made have you seen such a fault on this particular engine!
it could have, but if it was really hydro locked, often the engine has serious internal damage now. 'do a compression test, wet and dry and see if it shows internal damage
if it makes it even when sitting and not moving, it's the fuel pump. If it makes it only when moving, something's rubbing like brake pads or suspension parts
forget that without a dealer scan tool. Even my fancy tools don't work on that one year, I've had to send guys to dealers with those things because of that. it was a weird crossover year
electronic problems can come and go. That's what normally is it in such a case. Putting that oil in was probably a complete coincidence as lubrication is lubrication, not that big of a difference in what any oils do, some just last longer than others.
do this test first, and pray it's not the head gasket as in this car. if compression is good, it can be a bad fuel injector or bad coil on plug assembly
I've used either 5 or 10w30 always. The car recommends 5w30, and I use a NAPA Gold filter. Sense, I used to work there, I know their filters are built better then others, even Fram ones which I thought where the best before I got the job there. They have a bypass valve in it encase the filter gets plugged (which may be happening to), and the caps are made of metal, unlike Fram's which is cardboard.
putting cables on backwards can ruin various electronic parts, including the main computer. But then again, that was 7 years ago. Though knowing chryslers, I would be rather suspect of computer circuit problems causing that.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Things I used in this video:
1. OTC Scan Tool: amzn.to/2BIwPtc
2. Compression Tester: amzn.to/2BNgdAG
3. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY
4. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
5. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU
6. Common Sense
7. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7
8. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
9. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
10. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
❗️Check out the Scotty store:
goo.gl/RwhRGU
👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics:
goo.gl/ohy2cA
where can i buy that sixth one?
Lol I love your energy. It makes me less upset about my cylinder misfire.
Your videos has kept my $150 pathfinder running like a champ with over 255k on it,so far I've only down routine maintenance like breaks, shocks and tires.
to each his own, just realize I've been working on em 45 years and know which ones break down a lot and which ones don't.
yes, try cleaning the intake out with cleaner and pray it unsticks.
Scotty, you write like you talk. When I read your comments I can hear your voice in my head. It's amazing! Thank you!!
I changed it scotty. I took for a ride and car runs smooth. Doing some Christmas shopping right now. It still give me check engine light reads p1193 oxygen sensor. I can always change this after the holiday. Oh, I took the wipers off, the whole wiper motor and fire wall so I can get to the back. Thank you scotty
yes, fluid expands from heat, and will move upwards as it heats up due to expansion.
the ignition is disabled on that model as soon as you remove the coil assembly to get to the spark plugs. And you can check compression with throttle open or closed, doesn't really matter, it's only the pressure difference that really matters.
check the wiring to the plug, pray something's bent or shorted out. If not, a bad main computer often will cause that, or a shorted out sensor anywhere on the computer sensor system
yes, you can have the cat pressure tested for back pressure using exhaust gas gauges to see if it's clogged
make sure you have the right spark plugs that are gapped correctly first. And if you cracked any plugs putting em in, that will do it for sure, take em all out and check for cracks in the porcelin
It'd be cool to get your input on this suggestion Scotty, so that I'm not just a random person with a random tip promoting some "miracle fix" product. Heck, even if you know some big problems with restore, I'd like to hear them! Thanks for your time Scotty and thanks for all the videos you make! You've saved me thousands!
you do a leakdown for a more complex analysis. this shows an internal problem, and on this junker saturn the owner was going no further so it was good enough.
I have an 08 crown vic and all these videos really help me out
Its my favourite thing to see a new scottykilmer video
NO, just leave em alone, you can pull the ignition system fuse if you want to shut the system off
It's amazing how much I learn from these videos, and they are usually only about three minutes.
All right we're watching them, and we love you Scotty!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. Just go to my scotty kilmer channel on youtube saturday morning at 10, and click on the google plus icon on the top right corner. That takes you to the event where you can ask me questions Live. You do have to be a member of google plus, but that's free and you can just google "join google plus" for that. thanks,
if you still get water and white sludge, the bars leaks didn't fix the head gasket leak.
I had the same problem shortly after having my transmission rebuilt. I brought it back because my regular mechanic said it was the transmission. The guys at the transmission shop said it was an engine misfire and I could only feel it in high gear because the torque converter absorbed the shock until it locked in high gear. It turned out to be a cracked spark plug. It's a 97 olds 88. No problems in over a year anyway.
many things cause misfire on those, but vapor coming out the back is generally leaking fuel injectors, or a blown head gasket. Do my test "how to tell if your head gasket is blown" first
pray it's a bad ignition coil or fuel injector on number 1 and not internal engine problems
1.8 celica, no problems at all. But do test the transmission and do a compression test of the engine before buying to see if it's been maintained. Any car will fall apart without oil changes
Are you kidding? They want people to watch all the advertisements, and the advertisers want people to watch them, google is the biggest advertising company in the world today. Telling people to do so is exactly what anyone making them would want.
realize those engines often take a beating and often need complete rebbuilding if the engine starts to go out. Not a cheap fix.
no idea, I never swap different stuff as it often leads to intense headaches that never go away. Ask some junk yard dudes, they're always trying stuff like that
that's the code for engine position problem bank one. It means the engine has a mechanical problem somewhere on bank one of the engine, the bank that includes the number one cylinder (that's how they label them). good luck on that one
Yes, I'm not a big korean car fan, they tend to be cheaply made over time
I don't sell cars, I just fix em for customers. Selling cars is a Dirty business.
it was for this one, but I've seen some with 200 thousand on em and still running, though they weren't Ions, they were earlier ones. Ions pretty much finished off Saturn as a maker.
Yes, that does happen, do a wet and dry compression test of the engine to find out.
most cars don't need resetting, but those that do have a very particular sequence to do. Contact your manufacturer for directions.
air flow often is changed on new heads, so they will often suck air differently and make such whooping noises, I see that a lot. if it runs fine, it means nothing. But often cleaning the throttle can stop it if build up is causing it.
Evening Scotty I have a Misfire code P0304 Together with a P0100, I HAVE CHECKED COILS SPARK PLUGS AND Engine pressure, And Everything is perfect. ... The only thing that is very weird, is that Sometimes IT SMELL LIKE GAS .....THINKING I HAVE A CLOGGED INJECTOR OR BAD FUEL REGULATOR. THANKS LOVE YOUR CHANNEL
move # 4 injector to another location, if the miss moves, that's it" Pray it's that simple
it's just a coolant hose, cut off the bad section and replace it with rubber hose and clamps
My sister's first car was a 1995 Saturn SL2. This exact thing happened when the car reached 120k miles. We towed it to the scrap yard and the scrap yard handed my sister 350 dollars. She was happy with that since she only gave 800 dollars for the car and got a good year and a half out of it. Now she drives a 1998 Toyota Camry that just won't quit.
Thanks. It was maintained extremely well. Everything still works and it feels like it is still a new car.
You Sir are a good man to take time to answer all these question.
just drive it and refill the tank when low. Cleaners will often do that if too strong, but the code will go away over time when the cleaner burns off
I'm in the process of repairing a misfire on my 2000 Ford E-150 4.2L. Kept getting code PO305. Plug, wire, coil, & injector all checked out good as well as vacuum and compression test. Turned out to be clogged EGR ports in the lower intake manifold for all cylinders except cylinder #5 sending the exhaust gas intended for all six cylinders to only cylinder #5 resulting in the misfire.
Very true, I learned that the hard way. START off with a compression test before doing anything else. It's the cheapest thing to do and tells if you should just junk it
check the belts of course, and check what they drive, such as water pumps and alternators. Sometimes removing the belts and hand checking the pulleys will find the problem
yea, pray like mad it doesn't have any serious problems. I would go on a 15 minute trip first, then check for leaks and noises before starting on the big trip.
Probably the type of oil. For instance in a 5w30 oil the 5 stands for the weight of the oil when cold, and the 30 is for when it is at running temperature. If the car has something like a 10w30 oil, try running a 5w30 as it will get around the engine better when cold.
just keep watching the advertisements. i get a nickel for the full page ones. Millions of nickels add up.
That pop is a back fire. Seems to me like something is interfering with airflow in the combustion chamber. Excessive carbon deposits can lead to misfires. Check your positive crankcase ventilation valve or PCV to make sure it's not stuck closed. Also, a malfunctioning idle control valve could also lead to misfire and cause your engine to burn very rich at idlle.
Love the video's scotty. I had one of these (Engines Misfire, P0301) Codes last year on a 05 hyundai elantra. I did a tune up to the car my self. After getting it out of the garage I noticed check engine light on with this p0301 code. Although the car seemed to run fine the code would not go away even after using a scan tool to delete it.
after misfire …how many it ran for ?
Hello i just want to said i like your repairs. You are rrally good technician
tons of things can cause random misfires. But on those, often a bad distributor, have that checked first
noises can be hard to pinpoint. But, remove the fan belts and run it, if the noise goes away, figure out what device the belts drive that has worn bearings in it
frame straightening has to be done by a pro with a VERY expensive frame machine. MANY things can be damaged from a wreck, but motor and transmission mounts cracking is number one, so check that.
often it's actually bad fuel injectors or the lines that feed them, all plastic parts on that. BUT, if they were all changed, intake vacuum leaks can do that. See my video "finding engine vacuum leaks with a cigar"
check the maf sensor data first, it may be weak. if not pressure test the fuel pump to see if it's weak
of course not, as you crank, the intake valves open and close, as do the exhaust valves. 6 cranks is enough for a good test.
ray it's a bad number four fuel injector, swap it out and hope. Any auto parts store can sell you one and show you on the which which one number 4 is
pull the spark plugs out, pray one of them is gasoline wet, that would be the bad injector. Past that, see a mechanic, it gets complex.
check the carburetor or fuel injection system, whichever it runs, they don't sell em here. either carb needs overhauling or fuel injection system is leaking injectors badly using that much fuel
yes, and it changes in winter and summer from heat and cold. So check em at least once a month
Scotty I have 1994 camry 4 cyl That has 162k miles, the problem with it is it misfires while on the highway on a speed of approximately 45 miles, and when I hit the gas it gets stubborn, but it idles perfectly when I stop it.
Changed the following parts:Air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs & it's wires, cleaned throttle body & it's sensors electronics cleaner
There was oil along the plugs so I changed the rubber plugs & valve head gasket
+Eric Mark do my video "how to clean fuel injectors on your car" and pray it's not a head gasket starting to go out
Scotty Kilmer
it doesn't have wires, the ignition coils go directly on top of the spark plugs, there are 4 coil assemblies for that on this midel.
Like ur beginning and ends. .... and yea..... videos are the best I've come across. Just enough info to learn abt the problem.
I actually paid 350 bucks for it. i did have to put 800 dollars in paint and body for a new fender that was smashed and some paint work, as I don't do body work.
Another great video. Going to go out and do a compression test on my Jeep - Before It's Too Late!
do a compression test to see if that cylinder is bad, if not, realize wiring or computer circuits can do that too
replace the distributor cap and spark plug wires, pray that fixes it. If not, replace the entire distributor, they go out all the time in those
Scotty always finds the good deals on used cars. Wish I could. LOL
just depends on how it was maintained by the previous owner. I've seen em go 300 thousand miles
that's a weak spark, ignition system has problems. sometimes a bad coil
you can set your connection to do lower quality ones by clicking below the video on the icon
often bad fuel injectors do that, as does a bad distributor. Check the ignition system first. If not that, try my video "how to clean fuel injectors on your car"
na, cause it's not worth fixing either way. On this timing chain engine, even a head gasket job alone is over a thousand dollars. But one can do that to find out.
Get a new oil cap, the expand with age. If it runs fine, ignore it, computers are very sensitive
Scotty I have a 2015 hyundai elantra we've replaced the spark plugs, air filter, Cabin filter, we even put fuel treatment in it and it misfires on its first crank every time. We did not replace coils. But car runs fine but for some reason it keeps misfiring on the first crank and then you crank it again and it starts up just fine. I have it on my channel if you want to watch and see for yourself.
Scotty, your still the man!
I'm in UK here. Got a Chrysler crossfire booked in with a mercedes 3.2 AMG E32 engine. Misfire on number 6 intermittent fault. Usual scenario swapped 2 plugs for next cylinder as there's 12 on this engine, swapped leads ect. Carried out compression test all good. All mixture adaptions correct and lambda. Manifold vacuum correct, I suspect a sticking valve, as your from the place they are made have you seen such a fault on this particular engine!
bad head gasket, bad main computer, intake manifold gasket leak on that cylinder are the 3 most common causes after what you already tried. good luck
it could have, but if it was really hydro locked, often the engine has serious internal damage now. 'do a compression test, wet and dry and see if it shows internal damage
If you're talking about me, I never taught anywhere except the University of Illinois. Scotty
they got old, and worn. once warmed up, then they work fine as a hot engine is not as particular about perfect air fuel ration.
if it makes it even when sitting and not moving, it's the fuel pump. If it makes it only when moving, something's rubbing like brake pads or suspension parts
do a wet and dry compression reading, if it goes up when wet, it's rings, if not, valves
often a bad starter, they get hot being bolted on the engine, then short out till they cool down
could be the cat back, it can effect em over time that way. Find a guy like me with a dealer level scan tool to analyze it
forget that without a dealer scan tool. Even my fancy tools don't work on that one year, I've had to send guys to dealers with those things because of that. it was a weird crossover year
electronic problems can come and go. That's what normally is it in such a case. Putting that oil in was probably a complete coincidence as lubrication is lubrication, not that big of a difference in what any oils do, some just last longer than others.
remove em all, you basically crank it till the gauge stops moving upwards, normally 4 or 5 pumps will do
Thanks for the video Scotty. Had this issue with my Intrepid and has to scrap the car.
simple to do, just hook a switch with wires to interrupt power on fuel injectors, ignition system, or fuel pump system
Everytime i watch a video i learn some thing new and useful
you can, but that small bit of cranking with fuel won' thurt anything
you can try that for sure, but this thing is probably waay beyond that. as all the other cylinders had perfect compression
do this test first, and pray it's not the head gasket as in this car. if compression is good, it can be a bad fuel injector or bad coil on plug assembly
4th gear is probably worn internally. If it was the differential of course, it would whine in all gears that way
sure, I gave choices, and in poor countries, the price of fixing engines is a LOT lower than here in money hungry Houston.
yes, it's metal, hack saws work great to cut em off then splice rubber in
Just cut off the rotten section and make a big enough piece so you can slip a hose and clamps on it
I've used either 5 or 10w30 always. The car recommends 5w30, and I use a NAPA Gold filter. Sense, I used to work there, I know their filters are built better then others, even Fram ones which I thought where the best before I got the job there. They have a bypass valve in it encase the filter gets plugged (which may be happening to), and the caps are made of metal, unlike Fram's which is cardboard.
putting cables on backwards can ruin various electronic parts, including the main computer. But then again, that was 7 years ago. Though knowing chryslers, I would be rather suspect of computer circuit problems causing that.