Good work for getting a video together on this. I have the exact same motor and a previous owner had the stuck valve fixed at a service. I have made up the cable to connect a laptop to the EMM and downloaded a copy of the Evinrude sw so use that to open/close the valve when ever I connect - instead of relying upon hitting that 3500 or so rpm to open/close it.
Hi Jon thank you for your excellent video. Did you remove the middle section without taking the power head off? It looks like it's still on under the black plastic.
How did it go Jon? I've got a 115 2010 that seems sluggish for what it is also. I thought it might be propped incorrectly. Will only pull 4500 rpm flat out. Did you gain much extra Rpm & power?
Seems good mate. I did reprop mine too. Now get 5600 rpm. Really responsive out of the hole and about 53 km top. Always want faster but I’m happy with performance now compared to before. Engine sounds happier.
Hi Jono, approx how many hours did it take you to remove the power head and lower leg? I have this issue in my 10/2006 115 E-TEC also (amongst some fuel issues!) Has yours remained functioning since this video?
@@jonzero9505 Interesting... Any idea on how to lock them open? My Mechanic is on 6 month back order and will cost me about 2100 to replace it. So locking it open sounds appealing.
@@jrcalsurf it’s a tricky one. Mine was seized about half way and wasn’t moving for anything and had big clumps of carbon sitting on top that would have stopped it opening fully even if it was free. In other words to get it to the full open position I would have had to strip it fully anyway. I guess if you did get it to the open position you could set the actuator to open and leave it unplugged. Not sure if the computer would notice or not. Possibly not as I think the emm controls a relay which then controls actuator. Hope this makes sense
@@jonzero9505 You may already know by now Jon , there's an orifice restrictor in the exhaust pressure tube from the pressure sensor fitting to the EMM. Its at the EMM end and can block up also. Mine was when I started to work on the same issues.
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Well done and very helpful, thank you
Good work for getting a video together on this. I have the exact same motor and a previous owner had the stuck valve fixed at a service. I have made up the cable to connect a laptop to the EMM and downloaded a copy of the Evinrude sw so use that to open/close the valve when ever I connect - instead of relying upon hitting that 3500 or so rpm to open/close it.
Hi Jon thank you for your excellent video.
Did you remove the middle section without taking the power head off? It looks like it's still on under the black plastic.
Yeah mate. Powerhead stays on.
Apparently people just lock them open but you lose low end torque
How did it go Jon?
I've got a 115 2010 that seems sluggish for what it is also. I thought it might be propped incorrectly.
Will only pull 4500 rpm flat out.
Did you gain much extra Rpm & power?
Seems good mate. I did reprop mine too. Now get 5600 rpm. Really responsive out of the hole and about 53 km top. Always want faster but I’m happy with performance now compared to before. Engine sounds happier.
Hi Jono, approx how many hours did it take you to remove the power head and lower leg? I have this issue in my 10/2006 115 E-TEC also (amongst some fuel issues!) Has yours remained functioning since this video?
Hey mate. Probably a days work to strip clean and reassemble. So far so good. Has been performing well.
@@jonzero9505 Thanks Jono, great video very helpful
Do you know if you can delete the exhaust valve actuator on this 115 motor I'm thinking about getting one with this valve actuator problem
Apparently people just lock them open. Lose low end torque
@@jonzero9505 Interesting... Any idea on how to lock them open? My Mechanic is on 6 month back order and will cost me about 2100 to replace it. So locking it open sounds appealing.
@@jrcalsurf it’s a tricky one. Mine was seized about half way and wasn’t moving for anything and had big clumps of carbon sitting on top that would have stopped it opening fully even if it was free. In other words to get it to the full open position I would have had to strip it fully anyway. I guess if you did get it to the open position you could set the actuator to open and leave it unplugged. Not sure if the computer would notice or not. Possibly not as I think the emm controls a relay which then controls actuator. Hope this makes sense
@@jonzero9505 You may already know by now Jon , there's an orifice restrictor in the exhaust pressure tube from the pressure sensor fitting to the EMM. Its at the EMM end and can block up also. Mine was when I started to work on the same issues.
@@neil_111 yeah I checked that and it was alright. Bottom one was blocked solid