Finally maidened my Master 5 HD V2 build thanks to the first sunny spell in the UK for ages! 🌞 Used the SpeedyBee F405 V3/50A stack but hooked it up to Xing2 2604-1650Kv motors (instead of the 2207s) as I'd snagged a brand new set for £40 ... result!! Maidened it today on an Ovonic 1550mah 100c 4S, CNHL 1100maH 100c 6S and finally a 1800maH 120c CNHL and got some decent flight times just cruising (8:40, 6:45 and 6:35 mins respectively with final VBAT of 3.78V each). Those 2604 'pancake' motors really are efficient and pack good low-end torque forflowing proximity cruising ... if that's your bag. Flightwise, I used the UAV Tech 5" experimental BF preset for 575-650g quads but got slight propwash, slight jello (no ND filter) and throbbles so I need to check the BB logs. Unfortunately I can't access the BB logs from the SD card as it doesn't show up on my Mac either via Betaflight of directly off the SD card 😕Suspect I'll have to reformat the card so I'll lose the logs 😥 AUW (excl LiPo) is 446g with no GoPro mount, no GPS/mount, stock 3D prints, side plates, straps x2 & 5.1" props ... so it's no toothpick! 😜The build was pretty straightforward but the stock O3 co-ax cable doesn't quite allow me to mount the O3 cam at the most forward point on the TPU plates (unless I commit to routing it under the ESC), so the CNC frame is still visible in O3 camera ultra-wide mode. It's no biggie TBH as I still have the option of easily removing the O3 AU/Cam combo to run as a top-mounted backpack on other quads 😃 Note to any potential HD V2 buyers: The frame kit I received had 2 side plates but they were identical, instead of separate Left & Right hand variants. The UK seller is arranging for replacements but I'm not bothered as it's a complete pain trying to route the ESC wires under the side plate (like an Evoque). In the meantime I've used the side plates to protect the O3 Air Unit by fitting them in reverse from the same standoff and attaching them to the rear standoff/TPU with small zip-ties. It works a treat as there's just enough clearance for 5.1" props and there's still plenty of airflow (plus the O3 heatsink) ... the downside is that you need to remove the zip-tie to access that SD card or do a firmware update. Also note that there's insufficient clearance to connect a USB-C cable to the O3 air unit, so it needs to be unscrewed. Thanks again for the frame review. Keep up the good work 🍺👍
That's a fantastic bit of feedback - thanks. I did the same with the side plates. They look nice but are a pain and just get in the way, so I left them off. Also, I always set up the air unit on the bench before I bury it in the frame. Thanks for the nice comments - always appreciated.
Also note for your awg wires it is better to cut them long enough to loop foward and back to the xt60 plug and solder at 90 degrees at the solder point on xt60 plug .. eg parallel to the top plate.. Relieves the stress point and tension on the esc and is a lot easier to setup with this approach. Also the Tuning is better as you don't take away the positive effects of the soft mount flight controller system because you are not loading any pressure to the stack from doing a loop foward and back to to the Xt60 plug.
I know what you mean, but the suspended/floating FC mount means it's not really an issue. Also a wire loop in electrically noisy wires is generally not a great idea. Keep them as short as possible.
I used an older Matek M8Q-5883 initially and it clips in just fine. However I'm now using the HGLRC M100 Mini I reviewed recently. th-cam.com/video/ibNzG1tMblE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. The F405 WING isn't really for quadcopters, it's designed for wings and planes. The F405 I use here is probably the best choice, but you could use the SpeedyBee F7 V3 as well.
Hey there! It's great to hear that you have the same setup. To answer your question, the UART # that corresponds with the GPS in Betaflight will depend on which UART port you have connected your GPS to on your flight controller. Typically, UART1 is used for serial communication with the USB port, UART2 is used for telemetry, and UART3 and UART6 are commonly used for GPS modules. However, you should check your flight controller manual or Betaflight configuration to confirm which UART port is being used for GPS communication in your specific setup. I hope that helps!
I’d go for the RadioMaster Zorro th-cam.com/video/lwFk6ADZ-JQ/w-d-xo.html or if you have a slightly bigger budget, the awesome RadioMaster Boxer th-cam.com/video/UUydCNJ9WzQ/w-d-xo.html
First, make sure that the pin connection between your RadioMaster RP3 and its power source is secure and properly seated. Loose or partially connected pins can cause power issues. If the pin connection is secure, try using a different power source to see if the issue persists. It's possible that the issue is with the power source and not the RadioMaster RP3 itself. If the issue persists, you may want to try resetting the RadioMaster RP3 to its default settings. To do this, turn off the device, remove the pin connection, and hold down the bind button while reconnecting the pin. Keep holding the bind button for a few seconds until the LED light flashes quickly. This should reset the device to its default settings. If none of these steps resolve the issue, it's possible that there is a hardware issue with the RadioMaster RP3. In that case, you may want to contact the manufacturer or seek professional repair.
I've just checked the link and it works fine and you don't need to be logged into Google cos it's a public link. Could you please provide me with more details about the error message you're receiving? This will help me understand the issue and assist you in finding a fix.
I recommend checking the specifications of the Walksnail HD Pro camera to determine its dimensions and mounting options. Then, you can compare this information to the specifications of the drone frame you are considering to see if they are compatible. Additionally, you can reach out to the manufacturer of the drone frame or Walksnail HD Pro camera for assistance in determining compatibility.
@@WhirlyBloke The Dji cable was not the issue, I Speedy provided me a longer cable. We kept the FC in the normal configuration. It was the ESC we had to rotate 360. The ribbon cable going from FC to ESC was too short. But in the box as I found later was a longer cable. I finished the build and it flies great
@@WhirlyBloke well, I finished the build and I didn’t find that easier. I just rotated the ESC. I had the long enough cable to do that. I also had a longer cable for the camera. If you had read my post, you would see that speedy be provided both of those cables, there’s no need to rotate the flight controller just rotating the ESC allows me to use the battery connector on the frame like it was intended. Like I said, I finish this field and it is working perfect
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately, this frame is not designed to fit 6-inch props. However, you can just about squeeze 5.5-inch props on. Something like the HQProp DP 5.5x4x3 props will fit, but I've never tried them. Let me know how it goes.
@@WhirlyBloke I have the V2 frame and was planning to fit 5.5" props as there appeared to be sufficient clearance to the frame (ie. >2.75" from motor centre to frame). Sadly, there is only 5.25" distance from front to rear motor centres so I think I'm out of luck 😥
My favorite frame to date.... I have made it my main rig, it's a Walksnail build SpeedyBee f7 V3, Axis ELRS, same motors 2306 1750kv, it flies exceptionally well, now I would like just the Master... Same exact build but with the f405 stack... My plans... 😉
It sounds like you've built a great quadcopter! If you're looking to replicate the same build with an F405 stack instead of the SpeedyBee F7 V3, you can definitely do that. The F405 flight controller is a popular option for many quadcopter pilots, and it should work well with your existing setup.
Check the wiring between the Air Unit and the FC. RX->TX and TX->RX. It's easy to get them the wrong way around. Also check you're using the correct ports in BF and you've selected MSP. Best of luck getting it sorted.
The rotated stack means the standard 100mm DJI O3 Air Unit cable is too short. You can get a longer 150mm one here DJI O3 Air Unit 3-in-1 Long Cable bit.ly/3HkSgEe
Finally maidened my Master 5 HD V2 build thanks to the first sunny spell in the UK for ages! 🌞
Used the SpeedyBee F405 V3/50A stack but hooked it up to Xing2 2604-1650Kv motors (instead of the 2207s) as I'd snagged a brand new set for £40 ... result!! Maidened it today on an Ovonic 1550mah 100c 4S, CNHL 1100maH 100c 6S and finally a 1800maH 120c CNHL and got some decent flight times just cruising (8:40, 6:45 and 6:35 mins respectively with final VBAT of 3.78V each). Those 2604 'pancake' motors really are efficient and pack good low-end torque forflowing proximity cruising ... if that's your bag.
Flightwise, I used the UAV Tech 5" experimental BF preset for 575-650g quads but got slight propwash, slight jello (no ND filter) and throbbles so I need to check the BB logs. Unfortunately I can't access the BB logs from the SD card as it doesn't show up on my Mac either via Betaflight of directly off the SD card 😕Suspect I'll have to reformat the card so I'll lose the logs 😥
AUW (excl LiPo) is 446g with no GoPro mount, no GPS/mount, stock 3D prints, side plates, straps x2 & 5.1" props ... so it's no toothpick! 😜The build was pretty straightforward but the stock O3 co-ax cable doesn't quite allow me to mount the O3 cam at the most forward point on the TPU plates (unless I commit to routing it under the ESC), so the CNC frame is still visible in O3 camera ultra-wide mode. It's no biggie TBH as I still have the option of easily removing the O3 AU/Cam combo to run as a top-mounted backpack on other quads 😃
Note to any potential HD V2 buyers: The frame kit I received had 2 side plates but they were identical, instead of separate Left & Right hand variants. The UK seller is arranging for replacements but I'm not bothered as it's a complete pain trying to route the ESC wires under the side plate (like an Evoque). In the meantime I've used the side plates to protect the O3 Air Unit by fitting them in reverse from the same standoff and attaching them to the rear standoff/TPU with small zip-ties. It works a treat as there's just enough clearance for 5.1" props and there's still plenty of airflow (plus the O3 heatsink) ... the downside is that you need to remove the zip-tie to access that SD card or do a firmware update. Also note that there's insufficient clearance to connect a USB-C cable to the O3 air unit, so it needs to be unscrewed.
Thanks again for the frame review. Keep up the good work 🍺👍
That's a fantastic bit of feedback - thanks. I did the same with the side plates. They look nice but are a pain and just get in the way, so I left them off. Also, I always set up the air unit on the bench before I bury it in the frame. Thanks for the nice comments - always appreciated.
@@WhirlyBlokeLikewise, always setup air units and anything else I can on the bench in case they’re DOA 👍
The Speedybee master 5 hd is absolutely the cleanest build I have ever done best drone frame to date I think.
@@DESTINYFPV I love it.
Very good video
Also note for your awg wires it is better to cut them long enough to loop foward and back to the xt60 plug and solder at 90 degrees at the solder point on xt60 plug .. eg parallel to the top plate..
Relieves the stress point and tension on the esc and is a lot easier to setup with this approach.
Also the Tuning is better as you don't take away the positive effects of the soft mount flight controller system because you are not loading any pressure to the stack from doing a loop foward and back to to the Xt60 plug.
I know what you mean, but the suspended/floating FC mount means it's not really an issue. Also a wire loop in electrically noisy wires is generally not a great idea. Keep them as short as possible.
What GPS/GNSS module do you use in this build. Did you have any problems of mounting it to original Speedybee 3D prints?
I used an older Matek M8Q-5883 initially and it clips in just fine. However I'm now using the HGLRC M100 Mini I reviewed recently. th-cam.com/video/ibNzG1tMblE/w-d-xo.html
Link to your tune ? Thanks
It's in the video description now.
thank you for your very informative video. Can you tell me if the speedybee f405 wing with an ETC also fits in the frame?
Thanks for watching. The F405 WING isn't really for quadcopters, it's designed for wings and planes. The F405 I use here is probably the best choice, but you could use the SpeedyBee F7 V3 as well.
@@WhirlyBloke Thank YOU
how to use the S9 pad on SpeedyBee F405 V3 for PWM output?
Could I run my power cables underneath the ESC and up to the front without having to turn the board?
That would be a bit of a squeeze.
Is there a place where I could get a longer cable going from the air unit that would solve the problem completely.
did you use the connector for the o3 air unit or did you solder straight to the board
I used a 150mm O3 air unit connector cable. The original 100mm one is too short to reach.
Hello, I have the same stack and also decided to use a GPS with it, I was wondering what UART # corresponded with the GPS in betaflight?
I just realized that the TX and RX are numbered, I’m assuming T6 and R6 would mean it’s UART 6
Hey there! It's great to hear that you have the same setup. To answer your question, the UART # that corresponds with the GPS in Betaflight will depend on which UART port you have connected your GPS to on your flight controller.
Typically, UART1 is used for serial communication with the USB port, UART2 is used for telemetry, and UART3 and UART6 are commonly used for GPS modules. However, you should check your flight controller manual or Betaflight configuration to confirm which UART port is being used for GPS communication in your specific setup.
I hope that helps!
Great video, thank you. About to put in an order. Could you recommend least expensive transmitter to work with the RP3 receiver.
I’d go for the RadioMaster Zorro th-cam.com/video/lwFk6ADZ-JQ/w-d-xo.html or if you have a slightly bigger budget, the awesome RadioMaster Boxer th-cam.com/video/UUydCNJ9WzQ/w-d-xo.html
I Have issue with RM RP3, it turns on and off. It is pluged via pin. Do you had any problem with yours ?
First, make sure that the pin connection between your RadioMaster RP3 and its power source is secure and properly seated. Loose or partially connected pins can cause power issues.
If the pin connection is secure, try using a different power source to see if the issue persists. It's possible that the issue is with the power source and not the RadioMaster RP3 itself.
If the issue persists, you may want to try resetting the RadioMaster RP3 to its default settings. To do this, turn off the device, remove the pin connection, and hold down the bind button while reconnecting the pin. Keep holding the bind button for a few seconds until the LED light flashes quickly. This should reset the device to its default settings.
If none of these steps resolve the issue, it's possible that there is a hardware issue with the RadioMaster RP3. In that case, you may want to contact the manufacturer or seek professional repair.
How did you mount the radio receiver?
th-cam.com/video/p6rg7LdqqWw/w-d-xo.html I use 3M VHB tape to fix it to the TPU bracket.
Hello. I am not able to download your betaflight 4.4 tunning file, it gives me an error message when I click your link.
I've just checked the link and it works fine and you don't need to be logged into Google cos it's a public link. Could you please provide me with more details about the error message you're receiving? This will help me understand the issue and assist you in finding a fix.
Would this frame work with a Walksnail HD Pro?
I recommend checking the specifications of the Walksnail HD Pro camera to determine its dimensions and mounting options. Then, you can compare this information to the specifications of the drone frame you are considering to see if they are compatible. Additionally, you can reach out to the manufacturer of the drone frame or Walksnail HD Pro camera for assistance in determining compatibility.
new to the fpv hobby just curious how i load the tune to my drone in betaflight
Use the CLI page in BetaFlight and choose Load from file.
@@WhirlyBloke thank you so much
hello can i copy the cli and pate it on betaflight 4.4.1?
Yep. The download link is in the description.
You said check out the link to my tune in the description, its not there :(
It's there now. Thanks for watching.
Is the O3 power cable length sufficient after flipping the stack?
It's a bit of a stretch, but I had another one lying around. The pin order is the same as an O2 Air Unit.
You can get a 150mm long cable here: www.xcopters.co.uk/shop/dji-o3-air-unit-3-in-1-long-cable-150mm-15cm
Just started the exact build board but I can’t flip my board around like yours as my 03 cable is not nearly long enough. Any ideas?
You need to get the O3 170mm cable from speedybee.
You can get a 150mm long cable here: www.xcopters.co.uk/shop/dji-o3-air-unit-3-in-1-long-cable-150mm-15cm
@@WhirlyBloke The Dji cable was not the issue, I Speedy provided me a longer cable. We kept the FC in the normal configuration. It was the ESC we had to rotate 360. The ribbon cable going from FC to ESC was too short. But in the box as I found later was a longer cable. I finished the build and it flies great
@@nmfireman It's much, much easier to rotate the entire stack and use a longer 3-in-1 cable.
@@WhirlyBloke well, I finished the build and I didn’t find that easier. I just rotated the ESC. I had the long enough cable to do that. I also had a longer cable for the camera. If you had read my post, you would see that speedy be provided both of those cables, there’s no need to rotate the flight controller just rotating the ESC allows me to use the battery connector on the frame like it was intended. Like I said, I finish this field and it is working perfect
Can this frame take 6045 props??
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately, this frame is not designed to fit 6-inch props. However, you can just about squeeze 5.5-inch props on. Something like the HQProp DP 5.5x4x3 props will fit, but I've never tried them. Let me know how it goes.
@@WhirlyBloke I have the V2 frame and was planning to fit 5.5" props as there appeared to be sufficient clearance to the frame (ie. >2.75" from motor centre to frame). Sadly, there is only 5.25" distance from front to rear motor centres so I think I'm out of luck 😥
My favorite frame to date.... I have made it my main rig, it's a Walksnail build SpeedyBee f7 V3, Axis ELRS, same motors 2306 1750kv, it flies exceptionally well, now I would like just the Master... Same exact build but with the f405 stack... My plans... 😉
It sounds like you've built a great quadcopter! If you're looking to replicate the same build with an F405 stack instead of the SpeedyBee F7 V3, you can definitely do that. The F405 flight controller is a popular option for many quadcopter pilots, and it should work well with your existing setup.
nice
Yes, it's very nice. Thanks for watching.
Hopefully, they make an AVATAR HD Pro WalkSnail version soon :) - for the win
That would be a great option. Thanks for the comment and watching.
I can’t get the osd or voltage reading work in my Integra goggles 😢 Anyone?
Check the wiring between the Air Unit and the FC. RX->TX and TX->RX. It's easy to get them the wrong way around. Also check you're using the correct ports in BF and you've selected MSP. Best of luck getting it sorted.
The rotated stack means the standard 100mm DJI O3 Air Unit cable is too short. You can get a longer 150mm one here DJI O3 Air Unit 3-in-1 Long Cable bit.ly/3HkSgEe
What kind of speed would you expect from a build like this?
That depends very much on the components you build it with.
For anyone planning to use 5.2 inch props on this frame, the props will touch each other. stick to 5.1 or lower. i made this mistake.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
Yes