i really like the direction in which your bike enthusiasm is taking you. I have honestly only ever heard one other motorcyclist brag about buying fixer-uppers cheap, putting in the work, and ending up with a custom-for-you bike. Its awesome, and I hate that most riders just throw money at every problem, because my low social and economic status really fills out what has turned out to be a great hobby.
Quick shifter getting stuck - you might want to play around with the shift linkage and try different heights. It worked for me and my Norden 901, now I get good clutchless shifts up and down at any gear. Clipons too short - this might require some work, but I've seen other people extend their handlebars by tapping a thread into the Yamaha clipons, then inserting a long bolt without a head that sticks out from the clip on. You can then cut out an inch from your old clip ons, tap a tread into it, and screw it on to the extra bolt threads, Exhaust popping too much - leaks in the exhaust system can cause excessive popping, especially if the leak is at the headers. You can check that all headers are seated properly on the cylinder head without any leak. Then check downstream from there. Anyway, great build man. Nice to have seen it through.
The Quick-shifter issue may just be the angle it's mounted at. Ideally you want both linkages to be at 90 degrees, It's also worth grabbing some electrical component cleaner (or brake cleaner in a pinch) and spraying it clean.
Good to hear those pops and bangs give you a headache. It warms my heart to think that every other knob out there driving with pops and bangs on his road bike, riding around the city has a headache.
If you haven't been inside of that transmission don't rule out a bent shift arm or a damaged shift drum as the cause of your QS getting stuck. We have that come up every once in awhile on the 600RR forums and it's usually something internal. Pops and bangs, are you SURE there are no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks in the SC pipe? Find a stock exhaust pipe and install it along with a stock air filter. See if the pops and bangs goes away.
the suspension is just a setting thing... i dont know what your problem is...just check what preload you need and then open up the compression and rebound until you like it
As a former Yamaha user (FZ 1, MT-09) pops and bangs comes from factory with the AIS system. As long as you replace the exhaust, you get the pops and bangs. In order to stop them, it's not enough to do it in the ECU, but you need to mechanically block the AIS system, with block off plates or with a plug in the air pipe coming from the air filter. I would try that if I was you. For the Mt-09 we manage to put a switch on the AIS relay, to turn on and off the pops and bangs.
Hi Chaos, i heard what you were saying on those clip-ons, the thing is that you are missing bar end weight ! With them, you can have half of your hand resting on the weight, and the other half on the grip This is where the extra length went. It's the same on every yamaha sportbikes
I had an MT10 with exhaust and tune. Got a refresh tune to add a blipper and had pops and bangs after that were unintended. I needed to plug the pair valve and boom, no more excessive pops and bangs! Great video as always!
I've had ASV levers on my Ducati Monster for about 7 years and they're the best levers I've ever used. 180 clicks between max and min and about 4 inches span adjustment. Oh, and I tested the "unbreakable" claim too when the bike fell over. The lever folded up without even a scratch. Highly recommended.
NUMBER 5! I know some people will say I'm being stupid. But listen here. Go to a guy that works with steel. Anyone. Take that aftermarket clip ons and the new ones, and say to him that you want the beauty ones to be longer. He will chop some part of the aftermarket to go inside the originals with a godd bit protruding out. And in that outer part he'll just smash together the rest of the aftermarket one. When doing this, add some sort of glue, like epoxi. I've been riding downhill bikes with extensions for over 10 years, it'll be just fine.
Disable / remove your air injection system and it will pop and bang WAY less. Those AIS dump fresh air into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel. No problem with stock exhausts. Bangs and pops with aftermarket.
I also got me an ex-track bike, tho a triumph speed triple 1050.. it was geared insanely and reved like 6-7k at 100kmh 😂 bad clip-ons and almost straight piped. Its fun tho :)
Moore Mafia would say you need to "block off your pair valves" or shove a marble in that small intake tube. to get rid of the pops and bangs, I really love how that sounds.
I can relate. I bought a track bike about 3 years ago with the idea to make it "Streetable" again, and I'm STILL working out some minor BS. I'd say it's only worth it if it's a bike you're very passionate about. Otherwise, just pay more for a nice un-modded version \m/
there is an option in the ecu thats called Decelleration fuel cut which can be turned on/off its on from factory but racers usually turn it off making that poping sound and the bike loses engine braking which some racers like to ride with reduced engine braking,it is also reducing the jerky throttle when going from fully closed throttle to open throttle
Thanks for sharing everything you've learned about it. I learned a few things myself in this one... Who knew there was a standard for which side comp and rebound is supposed to be on??
Nice bike! You may want to try a stock exhaust. I bet it will still sound cool with the popping, but less loud and no headache. I have an R3 and I personally think the R3 stock sound gives the bike an unique sport engine sound. I opted to change it to an akrapovic slip on due to the fact that the stock exhaust gets in the way when I pass through tight spaces (personal practical use), but man do I really miss the stock exhaust sound.
I see one thing wrong with the QS. The linkage to lever connection up top must make a 90° angle in order to get the 1:1 force and swing of your foot shifting. Also, for “stuck issues”, make sure the heim joints ends on both bottom and top are orientated in the same direction. If one is cocked one way and the other opposite, it will bind the linkage when actuated.
The noise is coming from the PAIR system, it injects fresh air directly into the engine where the exhaust headers meet the block. This causes the explosions that you hear. With a normal (CATed) exhaust you wouldn’t hear it. You can thank the EU for all bikes having this now. Just remove the system or block it off and you’re golden.
Hey at least with the all the pops and bangs from the exhaust, if you're ever in Edenvale side I can find you and say hello, so think of it as an attraction for fan interaction.
The biggest issue on the r1 brakes after the ABS is the pads, just a pad swap alone helps yamahas so much even with abs. They are too weak till they grab, then when they do they grab they hold too much and slip in a juddery way when they let go
I'd be more apt to spend reasonable money on a middle-displacement street bike, and rip the engine out to give to a builder, extract another 20 horsepower with machining and cams, compression, pistons and rods, valve job, porting, etc. and then spend a heap more money on custom carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearings, and a lot of weight-reduction features. And when all completed, end up spending less than a new superbike and have something extremely unique, high performance, and a sleeper to most of the riding public. But I'm quirky like that. Chaos Causes: send your ECU to 2wheeldynoworks. You'll solve every operating problem, GUARANTEED. If your bike has AIS, it's feeding oxygen into the exhaust causing post-engine combustion. Nothing about it is good for the exhaust system or the exhaust valves.
I think that even though your main concern isn’t noise from the engine but the pops and bangs, you’d still benefit from getting rid of that alibaba sc project and getting a slightly more muffled exhaust or one with a baffle in it to absorb it
You sure the speedo doesn't read from the ABS/Wheel speed sensor? My 2017 FZ09 does. It could be a failing sensor or its mounted on the wrong side of the abs sensor bracket, placing it too far away from the trigger wheel. On the front ABS sensor on my FZ there is a bracket that holds the abs senor cable. It's common for people to accidently mount that between the abs sensor and the mounting point. My ABS light was freaking out before I corrected that.
The speed is determined by the abs rings on the wheels, so the only thing that can hinder or cause differences in displayed speed and actual speed is tire size. Meaning if you run a 120/70 and a 200/55 you should be reading accurately unless the ecu has been delved into more than needed.
yamahas have an (ais)system which causes an after market exhaust to excessively pop and bang you can buy a blanking kit for it and you can fit it without having to take engine out which cuts down on popping ALOT hope this helps
My completely stock XSR900, with the stock exhaust, pops and bangs to my endless irritation. And at idle the top of the engine pops continuously; since my Ford Maverick has the exact same sound I assume it's the direct injection valves opening and closing. It's suppose to be Euro 5 compliant but it all sounds very mechanical. In contrast, my former GSXS1000 was incredibly quiet, so much so I put a bicycle bell on it so I can pass by pedestrians without scaring them with the normal horn.
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats and zero pops now. A db killer also gets if someone wants it.
For the pops and bangs fix, you have to block the AIS system. Have you considered block off plates or the marble mod? That would definitely stop it from that.
It's post-engine combustion, due to oxygen being fed through the ports into the exhaust stream, which no longer has a catalyst and doesn't need oxygen. An ECU flash would eliminate the fault code you'll get with a disabled AIS system, but it won't stop the post-engine exhaust combustion until you physically block off the source of oxygen that feeds the exhaust system after the engine exhaust valves. "Pops and bangs tunes" are the programming of stupid tuners who care nothing of customer's engines and exhaust life; it's a sales gimmick of perceived value and should never be done. Any tuner that's allowing raw unburned gasses into the exhaust for post-engine combustion is a MORON.
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats
The throttle error is likely due to dust n gunk getting in the throttle housing and interfering with the magnets, open it and clean it and u should be good to go, ive had a similar issue before
Maybe weird question but how do you afford so many bikes and projects? I’m still a student and currently driving a XJ6S and hoping to get a 1L, like a S1000RR, but it’s so expensive that I’m not even sure I can afford a used one if it’s a recent one from 2010 or more 😅
The pops could be because of a bad tps, if it detects a little throttle when decelerating it is going to give a tiny bit of throttle, which is the exact way 16 year olds on 125s with open headers make their bikes pop, so maybe swap that out, see if the race shop could give you a little deadzone so that it wont detect throttle
@@exothermal.sprocket okay? Supersport aren't built for reliability. They're homolagation bikes that are made for racing and going super fast. Your better off with a touring bike if you don't like them. (Not saying straight pipes and ak47 sounds aren't annoying, but supersports are meant to be loud.)
@@exothermal.sprocket How? I explained that supersports aren't built for reliability in the first place. They're small 4 cylinder engines pushing plenty of power. Maybe if it was a honda, sure, I'd agree, because theyre downtuned from factory for reliability, but in the video, it's a yamaha, a company that is known to have powerful bikes from factory, and don't even get me started on ducati and aprillia. No one buys a Supersport for "reliability" and if you do, you're just dumb. Also, give me a solid reason. Or is it that you're offended by my comment or something (offended is a strong word, but you know what I mean). I wasn't trying sound rude, but at 14,000 rpm redline (typically), 186 mph - 300 kph from factory, Supersports are meant for speed and speed alone. If I were to see a honda goldwing, or a bmw gs1250 popping and banging, I'd say "that's stupid" but any Supersport I'd expect it. I know they don't pop from factory, but I think the last thing people are worried about when riding a Supersport with a pops and bangs tune is, "muh engine wear" while they're doing over 180 mph, bike screaming full blast down the road. Also, if you don't like your Supersport, which is pushing over 200hp or more, being loud, you dont have to ride it. You may come up with some complex argument against me, but tell me a dedicated sport bike that's built to last. Some go for tens of thousands of miles, but most have needed important parts replaced within that time frame. Don't even try to bring up older bikes. A 80s and 90s supersports don't even compare to modern ones in terms of power, and the only bikes that were as powerful, were built for racing, where parts break constantly, because guess what? They were built for speed. Im not trying to change your mind, Im just trying to get my point across. I'm open to any criticism or argument. (If you don't wanna read all this, you don't have to. Feel free to just pick out certain parts and focus on those, as it seems you only read the first sentence of my original reply anyway.)
I cant help but look at the tank and thinking it looks so naked. It looks a bit unfinished. A color matched decal would tie it in with the rest of the design. A Yamaha logo or even a matching tank protector. Cool project nevertheless!
Maybe a dumb question but are the AIS system blocked or inactivated in the ECU? If it´s not the bike always pops and bangs on decel with an aftermarket exhaust.
Here is my experience with modifications on electric or software level: they ALL SUCK. Whether it is a piggyback, power commander, quickshifter... all suck. A year later, when you take them out and ride the bike stock again, the bike will feel MUCH much better... I gave up on them for good.
Pops and bangs is AIS - can be solved by blocking off the air tube going back to the airbox... its very unlikley to be the cam really. AIS is the first thing the mechanic should shut off.
@@carcassryzu The difference between a good tuner and a lousy rotten tuner is just as possible and as consequential as a good nutritional doctor and a big pharma shill doctor.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Mate, I’m still blown away of how cool that colour is. Brilliant choice for a fairing.
i really like the direction in which your bike enthusiasm is taking you. I have honestly only ever heard one other motorcyclist brag about buying fixer-uppers cheap, putting in the work, and ending up with a custom-for-you bike. Its awesome, and I hate that most riders just throw money at every problem, because my low social and economic status really fills out what has turned out to be a great hobby.
Quick shifter getting stuck - you might want to play around with the shift linkage and try different heights. It worked for me and my Norden 901, now I get good clutchless shifts up and down at any gear.
Clipons too short - this might require some work, but I've seen other people extend their handlebars by tapping a thread into the Yamaha clipons, then inserting a long bolt without a head that sticks out from the clip on. You can then cut out an inch from your old clip ons, tap a tread into it, and screw it on to the extra bolt threads,
Exhaust popping too much - leaks in the exhaust system can cause excessive popping, especially if the leak is at the headers. You can check that all headers are seated properly on the cylinder head without any leak. Then check downstream from there.
Anyway, great build man. Nice to have seen it through.
The Quick-shifter issue may just be the angle it's mounted at. Ideally you want both linkages to be at 90 degrees, It's also worth grabbing some electrical component cleaner (or brake cleaner in a pinch) and spraying it clean.
Some quickshifters dont operate outside of a certain rev range also
To be in my 20s again. Quirks used to add character now they are a PIA.
R1 IS STILL MY DREAM BIKE . HAPPY TO SEE SOMEONE ACOMPLESED HIS DREAM
You'll get it one day friend. I got mine 2 weeks ago, at 32 years old.
Good to hear those pops and bangs give you a headache. It warms my heart to think that every other knob out there driving with pops and bangs on his road bike, riding around the city has a headache.
Hahah that makes me feel better too!
I wonder if that includes 60% of all Audis and Vw golf’s on our roads?
You sound jelly
@@nothingtoseehere93 Why would he be jealous of idiots and their vanity? He wouldn't.
Also using a Track Exhaust on the street can change it.
Man, you switched from Accossato, an italian beauty of semi-handlebar to the stock... In Italy is considered illegal
The accossato master cylinder failed on my R6, never again italian trash
Would have been so cheap to juust replace the bars and leave the clips, cleaner looking and more adjustablity. the stock R1 bars are terrible
I don't know how he got the guts to do it... I rebuilt an R1 but its full race settings
If you haven't been inside of that transmission don't rule out a bent shift arm or a damaged shift drum as the cause of your QS getting stuck. We have that come up every once in awhile on the 600RR forums and it's usually something internal.
Pops and bangs, are you SURE there are no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks in the SC pipe? Find a stock exhaust pipe and install it along with a stock air filter. See if the pops and bangs goes away.
the suspension is just a setting thing... i dont know what your problem is...just check what preload you need and then open up the compression and rebound until you like it
As a former Yamaha user (FZ 1, MT-09) pops and bangs comes from factory with the AIS system. As long as you replace the exhaust, you get the pops and bangs. In order to stop them, it's not enough to do it in the ECU, but you need to mechanically block the AIS system, with block off plates or with a plug in the air pipe coming from the air filter. I would try that if I was you. For the Mt-09 we manage to put a switch on the AIS relay, to turn on and off the pops and bangs.
Yep this. On my FZ1 I did the ghetto way and just plugged the hole 😂
Hi Chaos, i heard what you were saying on those clip-ons, the thing is that you are missing bar end weight ! With them, you can have half of your hand resting on the weight, and the other half on the grip
This is where the extra length went.
It's the same on every yamaha sportbikes
I had an MT10 with exhaust and tune. Got a refresh tune to add a blipper and had pops and bangs after that were unintended. I needed to plug the pair valve and boom, no more excessive pops and bangs! Great video as always!
I've had ASV levers on my Ducati Monster for about 7 years and they're the best levers I've ever used. 180 clicks between max and min and about 4 inches span adjustment. Oh, and I tested the "unbreakable" claim too when the bike fell over. The lever folded up without even a scratch. Highly recommended.
NUMBER 5! I know some people will say I'm being stupid. But listen here. Go to a guy that works with steel. Anyone. Take that aftermarket clip ons and the new ones, and say to him that you want the beauty ones to be longer. He will chop some part of the aftermarket to go inside the originals with a godd bit protruding out. And in that outer part he'll just smash together the rest of the aftermarket one. When doing this, add some sort of glue, like epoxi. I've been riding downhill bikes with extensions for over 10 years, it'll be just fine.
Disable / remove your air injection system and it will pop and bang WAY less. Those AIS dump fresh air into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel. No problem with stock exhausts. Bangs and pops with aftermarket.
I also got me an ex-track bike, tho a triumph speed triple 1050.. it was geared insanely and reved like 6-7k at 100kmh 😂 bad clip-ons and almost straight piped. Its fun tho :)
I could not imagine other colour to be more perfect to a bike that this blue is to your R1.
You should be wearing ear plugs no matter what, imo. Sustained wind noise is what causes hearing damage.
WHAT?
Ear plugs is crazy 😂😂.
I've never noticed wind being THAT loud in my shoes x-fiteen
You have no clue how similar your situation is to mine with my R6. I found that hilarious
Pops and bangs give the bike character mate cheers
You could mount a subwoofer behind the fairings that would play fart noises. That would also give it character.
this bike looks like my dream bike. goal is to buy and R1 and wrap it in powder blue. nice job here!
always a good start to a day when CC posts, even at 5am (au)
Man, that color is beautiful on that R1
Moore Mafia would say you need to "block off your pair valves" or shove a marble in that small intake tube. to get rid of the pops and bangs, I really love how that sounds.
PAIR
@@TheOriginalCoda Used voice recog, and have a reading disorder, just didn't catch it.
@@goemonronin 👍
I can relate. I bought a track bike about 3 years ago with the idea to make it "Streetable" again, and I'm STILL working out some minor BS.
I'd say it's only worth it if it's a bike you're very passionate about. Otherwise, just pay more for a nice un-modded version \m/
there is an option in the ecu thats called Decelleration fuel cut which can be turned on/off its on from factory but racers usually turn it off making that poping sound and the bike loses engine braking which some racers like to ride with reduced engine braking,it is also reducing the jerky throttle when going from fully closed throttle to open throttle
This whole video was Motorcycle ASMR for me. Absolutely well done. Tell me more 😂
I took a chance on a tracked-out R1200S. The quirks were expensive! Worth it though, I sold it for a bunch of money and got a rare stock one,
Thanks for sharing everything you've learned about it. I learned a few things myself in this one... Who knew there was a standard for which side comp and rebound is supposed to be on??
Ahh yes another R1 Video
So, this whole video is about Suffering from Success...? NICE! 🔥🔥🔥
heh, I have an 01 FZ1 that was bought as a project bike and i'm with you about project bikes always being quirky
17:30 you can put a marble and block off the Air induction system pipe to avoid pops and bangs
the color is cool, literally cool
Nice bike! You may want to try a stock exhaust. I bet it will still sound cool with the popping, but less loud and no headache. I have an R3 and I personally think the R3 stock sound gives the bike an unique sport engine sound. I opted to change it to an akrapovic slip on due to the fact that the stock exhaust gets in the way when I pass through tight spaces (personal practical use), but man do I really miss the stock exhaust sound.
I see one thing wrong with the QS.
The linkage to lever connection up top must make a 90° angle in order to get the 1:1 force and swing of your foot shifting.
Also, for “stuck issues”, make sure the heim joints ends on both bottom and top are orientated in the same direction. If one is cocked one way and the other opposite, it will bind the linkage when actuated.
My 2021 bmw also has quirks. So much fun to not know if its going to start or not upshift - that kind of anxiety adds personality 😑
It really has that depth of actual carbon fibre. Quality vinyl
For the pops you can try a pair valve block off mod, either a marble in the pipe mod or a pair valve block off plate.
The noise is coming from the PAIR system, it injects fresh air directly into the engine where the exhaust headers meet the block. This causes the explosions that you hear. With a normal (CATed) exhaust you wouldn’t hear it. You can thank the EU for all bikes having this now. Just remove the system or block it off and you’re golden.
Nice content as always! Greetings from Brazil 🚀
Hey at least with the all the pops and bangs from the exhaust, if you're ever in Edenvale side I can find you and say hello, so think of it as an attraction for fan interaction.
The biggest issue on the r1 brakes after the ABS is the pads, just a pad swap alone helps yamahas so much even with abs. They are too weak till they grab, then when they do they grab they hold too much and slip in a juddery way when they let go
Popping.... ❤
Give em to me..., I'd listen to it all day...
I'd be more apt to spend reasonable money on a middle-displacement street bike, and rip the engine out to give to a builder, extract another 20 horsepower with machining and cams, compression, pistons and rods, valve job, porting, etc. and then spend a heap more money on custom carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearings, and a lot of weight-reduction features. And when all completed, end up spending less than a new superbike and have something extremely unique, high performance, and a sleeper to most of the riding public.
But I'm quirky like that.
Chaos Causes: send your ECU to 2wheeldynoworks. You'll solve every operating problem, GUARANTEED. If your bike has AIS, it's feeding oxygen into the exhaust causing post-engine combustion. Nothing about it is good for the exhaust system or the exhaust valves.
I think that even though your main concern isn’t noise from the engine but the pops and bangs, you’d still benefit from getting rid of that alibaba sc project and getting a slightly more muffled exhaust or one with a baffle in it to absorb it
Might wanna try installing db-killers. That will reduce that excess popping and save ears too.
You sure the speedo doesn't read from the ABS/Wheel speed sensor? My 2017 FZ09 does. It could be a failing sensor or its mounted on the wrong side of the abs sensor bracket, placing it too far away from the trigger wheel. On the front ABS sensor on my FZ there is a bracket that holds the abs senor cable. It's common for people to accidently mount that between the abs sensor and the mounting point. My ABS light was freaking out before I corrected that.
We want more CBR videos chaos!
Bro you should ALWAYS wear earplugs no matter what. There’s no such thing as a quiet helmet
The speed is determined by the abs rings on the wheels, so the only thing that can hinder or cause differences in displayed speed and actual speed is tire size. Meaning if you run a 120/70 and a 200/55 you should be reading accurately unless the ecu has been delved into more than needed.
I´ve loved this series i hope u get to buy mpre motorcycles for cheap and build all the thing from scratches and upload the process
decent Akra or yosh can will hide some of the noise, won't eliminate the pops but makes em much more tolerable
get long bar end weights and use them as a longer handlebars. feels the same and its cheap and reduces vibrations
yamahas have an (ais)system which causes an after market exhaust to excessively pop and bang you can buy a blanking kit for it and you can fit it without having to take engine out which cuts down on popping ALOT hope this helps
My completely stock XSR900, with the stock exhaust, pops and bangs to my endless irritation. And at idle the top of the engine pops continuously; since my Ford Maverick has the exact same sound I assume it's the direct injection valves opening and closing. It's suppose to be Euro 5 compliant but it all sounds very mechanical.
In contrast, my former GSXS1000 was incredibly quiet, so much so I put a bicycle bell on it so I can pass by pedestrians without scaring them with the normal horn.
Try lining up the mark on the gear selector rod, with the gap thats on the shift arm. ;)
My Fireblade pops and bangs and was like that when i bought it, only tends to do it if im riding aggressively
Just change the exhaust for a bigger tube (or with dbkiller) and pops won't be that much problem.
Just install a bigger exhaust can at the end, it will make it a bit more enjoyable
I'm sure you'll find a buyer willing to pay a good price for it. Now, when it is washed and polished and has new brake levers 😂
How can you not like pops and bangs..?
Maybe a more quiet exhaust will help with the pops?
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats and zero pops now. A db killer also gets if someone wants it.
For the pops and bangs fix, you have to block the AIS system. Have you considered block off plates or the marble mod? That would definitely stop it from that.
Can also be disabled in the ECU since it's flashed.
It's post-engine combustion, due to oxygen being fed through the ports into the exhaust stream, which no longer has a catalyst and doesn't need oxygen. An ECU flash would eliminate the fault code you'll get with a disabled AIS system, but it won't stop the post-engine exhaust combustion until you physically block off the source of oxygen that feeds the exhaust system after the engine exhaust valves. "Pops and bangs tunes" are the programming of stupid tuners who care nothing of customer's engines and exhaust life; it's a sales gimmick of perceived value and should never be done. Any tuner that's allowing raw unburned gasses into the exhaust for post-engine combustion is a MORON.
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats
Rebuilt my crashed bike.
Spent as much as buying a good second hand machine in the end.
i don't think the ABS pump measures the brake pressure, Pretty sure the pressure sensor is just the brake light switch. but i could be wrong
The warm up button probably uses the horn wiring, which is why you cannot find the connector
on the cluch lever maybe a 90° angle could make the problem go away maybe ?
Can you do a quality of fit video ,,, on the body kit ,cheers
The throttle error is likely due to dust n gunk getting in the throttle housing and interfering with the magnets, open it and clean it and u should be good to go, ive had a similar issue before
Maybe weird question but how do you afford so many bikes and projects? I’m still a student and currently driving a XJ6S and hoping to get a 1L, like a S1000RR, but it’s so expensive that I’m not even sure I can afford a used one if it’s a recent one from 2010 or more 😅
The pops could be because of a bad tps, if it detects a little throttle when decelerating it is going to give a tiny bit of throttle, which is the exact way 16 year olds on 125s with open headers make their bikes pop, so maybe swap that out, see if the race shop could give you a little deadzone so that it wont detect throttle
where is the final price computation/comparison whether it is better to buy a bike to make your dream bike or to buy one closer to what you want
I will buy that bike it’s nice man
I have a full Bitubo suspension on a 2022 Road Glide. I can't even get to the dials on the top of the forks......
I like the poppings 😂
They only reduce motorcycle life.
They are only useful if you are making popcorn.
@@exothermal.sprocket okay? Supersport aren't built for reliability. They're homolagation bikes that are made for racing and going super fast. Your better off with a touring bike if you don't like them.
(Not saying straight pipes and ak47 sounds aren't annoying, but supersports are meant to be loud.)
@@greenslime5655 You completely threw your legitimacy out the window with the first sentence. I won't bother explaining why.
@@exothermal.sprocket How? I explained that supersports aren't built for reliability in the first place. They're small 4 cylinder engines pushing plenty of power. Maybe if it was a honda, sure, I'd agree, because theyre downtuned from factory for reliability, but in the video, it's a yamaha, a company that is known to have powerful bikes from factory, and don't even get me started on ducati and aprillia. No one buys a Supersport for "reliability" and if you do, you're just dumb. Also, give me a solid reason. Or is it that you're offended by my comment or something (offended is a strong word, but you know what I mean). I wasn't trying sound rude, but at 14,000 rpm redline (typically), 186 mph - 300 kph from factory, Supersports are meant for speed and speed alone. If I were to see a honda goldwing, or a bmw gs1250 popping and banging, I'd say "that's stupid" but any Supersport I'd expect it. I know they don't pop from factory, but I think the last thing people are worried about when riding a Supersport with a pops and bangs tune is, "muh engine wear" while they're doing over 180 mph, bike screaming full blast down the road. Also, if you don't like your Supersport, which is pushing over 200hp or more, being loud, you dont have to ride it. You may come up with some complex argument against me, but tell me a dedicated sport bike that's built to last. Some go for tens of thousands of miles, but most have needed important parts replaced within that time frame. Don't even try to bring up older bikes. A 80s and 90s supersports don't even compare to modern ones in terms of power, and the only bikes that were as powerful, were built for racing, where parts break constantly, because guess what? They were built for speed. Im not trying to change your mind, Im just trying to get my point across. I'm open to any criticism or argument.
(If you don't wanna read all this, you don't have to. Feel free to just pick out certain parts and focus on those, as it seems you only read the first sentence of my original reply anyway.)
@@greenslime5655 I'm really not interested in taking all the time to explain things you've failed to understand.
Get a new more quiet exhaust to reduce the noise?
Haha 😂 bro bought a literal petrolhead trackbike and the fact that it's too extreme for him and he had to tone it down is so funny
Bad advocate for no ABS for street riding ,initiate the lean with counter steering ....
Bro waiting for your video
Legend
When you get that suspension dialed in you will absolutely love it. DO NOT go back to the stock stuff it is bargain basement junk.
I cant help but look at the tank and thinking it looks so naked. It looks a bit unfinished. A color matched decal would tie it in with the rest of the design. A Yamaha logo or even a matching tank protector.
Cool project nevertheless!
3:48 WAIT, I can't just punch though the screen to feel those levers !?
It's probably the angle of the shift rod....
Maybe a dumb question but are the AIS system blocked or inactivated in the ECU? If it´s not the bike always pops and bangs on decel with an aftermarket exhaust.
does the bike have a pair valve block off? If not do the marble trick and it may eliminate the pops and bangs or at least lessen it
How do you find it on the road? I have one and feel it’s unbearably uncomfortable and too track focused even in complete OEM form
love from india bro keep it up.
I didn't read the Race in the title and was pissed why would he not have the bike after working and spending so much time in it
what was the shops name where you tuned your bike?, struggling to find one myself but either way it will be over an hour out of my way to get there.
Put some 3145rtv on it... You'll never have that problem again.
Here is my experience with modifications on electric or software level: they ALL SUCK.
Whether it is a piggyback, power commander, quickshifter... all suck.
A year later, when you take them out and ride the bike stock again, the bike will feel MUCH much better...
I gave up on them for good.
Bit of a random one but what boots are they at 9:45?
Alpinestars
@@bhaskarbhambure4300 i can tell that much, i was more after knowing which ones
@@LetsRide-POV sektor i guess
@chaos cause can you send me a link to get the quick shifter and auto warmer please?
Pops and bangs is AIS - can be solved by blocking off the air tube going back to the airbox... its very unlikley to be the cam really. AIS is the first thing the mechanic should shut off.
Surprising the "tuner" couldn't tell this gentlemen such an easy and well known solution. Makes me wonder if the tuner is a moron.
@@exothermal.sprocket yeah - wouldn't fill me with confidence about the tuner.
@@carcassryzu The difference between a good tuner and a lousy rotten tuner is just as possible and as consequential as a good nutritional doctor and a big pharma shill doctor.
whats about the cbr 😢
Hey which helmet is this LS2 Rapid?
Are the stock brake pads still in the bike?