That bit where the car started rolling on the guy scared the hell outta me. In 1982, when I was 8 years old, I was playing in my friend's back yard while his dad was changing his oil in the yard with the front of the car on blocks. Unfortunately, he neglected to chock his wheels and, considering the blocks were on dirt, he wasn't in a very safe location. He was under the car when it rolled backwards off the blocks, crushing his chest. His mom called 911 and my friend and I watched his dad die over the course of about 5 minutes. The ambulance arrived only a couple of minutes after the man passed. I can still hear my friend's mom screaming and the gurgling that man made as he tried to breathe with a shattered chest. This was an awful and excruciating way to die and I had nightmares almost nightly for the next year or so. Hell, I still have occasional nightmares about it today (40 years later). Do yourself a favor. Chock your friggin wheels!
@@michaelwerkov3438 The car kind of "bounced" on the shocks when it fell off the blocks and the "bounce" is what crushed his chest, so he wasn't really trapped, but he wasn't going anywhere. He had blood coming out of his mouth, nose, eyes, and ears and he couldn't get enough air to say a single word. Like I said, I still have nightmares about it today, 40 years later. If you ever work under a car, make damned sure that car can't move while you're under there.
@@watchyourtimeco1 facts thats why I shake the hell out of my car whenever I'm getting ready to get under it😂 and always triple check! Rather have it fall and break something than have it fall on me. That story was horrifying btw I feel for u.
The type guy where if you get on his good side you'll learn a lot from his experience but if you date his daughter, you'll always be questioning if the crowbar he's holding is for you or the car
My favorite mechanic anecdote came from a letter a pilot had wrote to Readers Digest & went (something) like this.. During the last hundred miles or so of my flight I was concerned about a noise coming from my left hand engine although there seemed to be no effect on performance. After landing and taxing to the hanger I found the overnight ground crew mechanic was on his break so I left him a note that said "Unfamiliar tapping sound coming from lefthand engine" On arrival at work the next day I was handed a note from the previous nights mechanic that said.. "Ran engine all night, noise is now familiar"
This kind of story reminds me of something I read in an unrelated field. In Brian Herbert's biography of his dad, Frank Herbert, he tells of how his dad always kept a pen and pad next to his bed so he could jot down ideas he had in his sleep. One morning the family hears Frank Herbert cursing after waking up. It turned out that all he wrote down in the middle of the night was, "I just had the most awesome story idea!"
I haven't professionally turned a wrench in over a decade. In my sliver years I watch YT vids to help me decide if doing it myself is actually cheaper or done rite the 1st time. Some jobs it's Hell No; take my money. lol
I always questioned how plastic wedges could stop a car from rolling until I forgot to remove them and tried to drive. That thing didn't budge and now I trust wheel chocks completely 🤣
You can tell a real mechanic just by the way he talks. Dude knew the lines were backwards. My mind went to the GM issue where the angel sensor fails and tries to “find center” but it does a 5° spin to either side.
I’m a biologist with no mechanic experience, and I watched that power steering fail and thought to myself “the connections are backwards”. I don’t believe that girl is a mechanic if she didn’t even know that
The extension hack reminded me of when I was trying to do the brakes on my VW. It’s a triple square socket, and I could only find 3/8 drive locally. The idiots that had the car before me never changed the rotors out, so the caliper bolts were crusted into the holes (aluminum hun with steel bolts on a then 10 year old car in Pennsylvania). My air impact wouldn’t do the job, so my dad and I got an idea. We had a 3/8th adapter on the socket, with about 3 feet of extensions, to a 1/2 inch breaker bar, with a 4 foot jack handle and me jumping on it. We broke three adapters but it by god we got it done lmao
After fighting with few pairs of rear discs in golf mk4/5 based cars and cursing on engineers responsible for brake carrier fit, I found out you can just leave the carriers on, and still be able to take off and fit new discs (and I think it also works with front ones as well).
I’ve had to use the old cheater bar technique a few times myself. I’ve also broken several nice socket wrenches doing it lol. So if you have no other option try and use a cheap wrench is my advice. That way you won’t be out so much $ if you do snap your wrench.
Haven't had to do anything like that but I've run into a few "you know, this probably worked great when they tested it with pristine parts instead of actual use conditions." Bolts that would just spin so you had to figure out how to secure the other side (which would be in some crevice or the other side of the car), stuff like that.
I stripped the last one so i just used my grinder on the head, popped the rotor off and used pliers on bolt. Was replacing them anyways. Took like 5 mins
The unchocked car one really resonated with me but for a different yet similar reason. As a pilot and specifically a flight instructor I can safely say that many flight schools, FBOs etc don't have level ramps and chocking planes isn't just enforced, it's necessary. At one airport I flew into, I saw a Cessna slowly start rolling across a ramp toward a $8 million King Air and a student frantically chasing it. He didn't catch it. Nobody was hurt as both planes were empty at the time.. nobody except the accountant at his flight school, probably. But from that day I always made sure I remembered to chock my aircraft at unfamiliar fields and tell my students to do the same.
As a cargo Ramp Agent I have seen what happens. At our field we have a separate person talking to the pilot during a pushback. Batmobile lowers, and the plane starts rolling around when they forget to ask the pilots for break while telling the pushback to undock.
At Nellis AFB we'd see ladders "walking" down the parking apron in the strong winds because someone left them standing unattended instead of laying them down on the ground.
@@atuck6082 😆😆😆😆 Of course! How else you suppose they learned telekinesis to make ladders walk? You don't think it was the wind, do you? That'd be too simple and logical a 'splanation.
Coffee filters can also be used for detecting fuel in the engine oil, drop a little onto the filter and watch it expand out, if its tainted the fuel will travel outward quicker than the oil, leaving a ring.
@@joshuachandra6677 Ah, I probably wasn't clear enough. I meant to say that that is a great solution, because professional laboratories use the same effect with paper strip tests of characteristics very similar to coffee filters.
The comment in the vid about mechanics hating engineers is very true hah. When I was doing my mech eng degree an ex chief engineer from Ford was our lecturer. I quizzed him on why their designs made it extremely difficult to work on some models, and whether they put any thought into that - the answer - basically zero thought. The vehicle was designed to last for five years, after that it would be scrapped and the difficult parts would theoretically never actually need replacing. As you can guess, I hate working on Fords!
As a software engineer we do the same with code. Maintainability? Eh, only if project isn't behind schedule...and we're always behind schedule. (only slight exaggeration)
One of my aerospace engineering professors liked to emphasize in our design class that "a mechanic is gonna have to get his hand or a tool in there" for maintenance and repairs.
As a retired Bureau of Standards Lab Tech, I TOTALLY approve of the Coffee Filter Hack. It's a trick we used in the Lab to clean or lubricate extremely precision equipment.
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt Don't feel bad. I'm almost 70 and I'm still learning tricks, and I've been a wrench bender since I was a kid in my Dad's garage at his Sinclair Station.
@@WilliamEades_Frostbite yeah but you actually have the brain capacity to understand what these words mean. I genuinely don't believe I could ever even remember all of the things it takes to build an engine.
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt I've lost track of the number of times I used a Shop Manual to work on something. That is why I have always bought the factory service manual for every vehicle I've owned.
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt Idk man they're really not that complicated when it comes down to it. Yes they're hard to put together and have many many components that all need to be vey precisely installed but I took an engine apart in my pre apprenticeship class 6 years ago and it was not that hard to do. I still remember most of the process and that's the only engine I've ever actually stripped down to an empty block, putting it together took a bit of effort and thought but yeah it's really not too complicated to get into. Don't doubt yourself before you try it, It was quite the expereience and it was so much fun holding the internals in my own hands and seeing what you never get to see
11:15 a good tip when using jack points from the side is make sure the wheels on your jack are pointing the right way and its rolling a little each time you lift. The jack should be able to roll or your jack point will move instead and slip off. This can happen if the ground you are on is pitted, too soft or there is something stuck under the jack wheels.
Being an aircraft mechanic (mainly working on small airplanes) modifying tools to get to stuff was the name of the game. I specifically bought cheaper sets of tools to rig them as needed, instead of using up my MAC or Snap-On tools.
Same. Been working on planes for over a decade. I have a harbor freight set of wrenches that are ground, bent, and chopped for various specific jobs, and a nice set for normal ops.
And having worked with Military Chinook mechanics, I would _never never ever_ fly in a plane you worked on. It's dangerous enough to play games with spec on a land based vehicle. It's a different level when your aviation mechanics get 'inventive' before you end up a mile in the air. There's a reason they never d*ck around with hacks or skip a castle nut & cotter. That's how news stories about 8 dead soldiers and 2 dead pilots happen.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing If the Chinook mechanics dicked around with specs or omitted hardware/steps, they were shit mechanics. Every aircraft mechanic has strict guides to follow, and modifying a tool by cutting it, grinding down it's thickness, or bending it - all to be able to gain access, is not dicking around with specs. I don't know how you made that leap.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing the fuck are you talking about. Modifying or making your own tools isnt dicking around with specs. In fact some Honeywell manuals ive dealt with literally give you instructions on how to make your own fixture or tool. As long as the part is in spec and operates correctly it really doesnt matter what you use to do it.
4:44 Random Auto Shop Story Time...Years ago when I was young working at a brake/muffler shop, with little experience. I was trying to remove a stuck u-joint out of a drive shaft I had clamped in a bench vice. I was hitting it from the top down because I was worried if I hammered it from underneath. The bearing cap would fly off & hit me in the face. My boss was getting frustrated with me because I was taking "too long" (it was rusted stuck) Before I had a chance to say anything. He pulls the hammer out of my hand & says, "Here !! do it like this !!" & starts hitting it hard from underneath. A couple good whacks with the hammer & the bearing cap flies off, POW !!! right into his face. Splits his lip open (I thought he might need stitches) I said, "Umm, I was scared the cap was gonna hit me in the face like that.That's why I wasn't hitting it from underneath." Same shop.... They learned the hard way, the floor drains in each bay were connected...One guy was changing a fuel filter, a bit of gas from the old filter, dripped on the floor right by the 6 in round drain & went down. The other bay had a big square 60 lb steel plate covering an access hole in the floor & a car in it, up on a lift. After the fuel filter job, same guy pulls a car in, to cut off the old muffler with a torch. Everything is fine for a minute into sparks start falling down by the drain. He knew he had only dripped a little bit gas & not enough to make a big fire, plus it should have been evaporated after a few minutes. What he didn't know was, gas fumes were building up in the drain. All the sudden KAABOOM !!! the 60 lb steel drain cover in the other bay, flies up 6 ft & hits the car on the lift.....Luckily no one was hurt. If someone had been in the other bay, standing on that plate. They would have been seriously injured. Why I'm typing out some long ass story, I have no idea...
@@davelowets I don't. You have to remember he was young and often some bosses are assholes. The gas build up story is absolutely believable and not sure why anyone would lie about it.
One hack that was not mentioned during the trans fluid in the engine oil segment. Turn the bottle in the other direction to pour. It lets air into the bottle and it pours much smoother. This hack is molded into the pour spout of every quart bottle.
true, this works for all kinds of semi-thick fluids in bottles not just engine oil. we have big metal cans of olive oil and do the same to pour nicely.
i have used youtube and google but i am always so so SOOOOO glad i bought the repair and maintenance manuals for my vehicles. even if some things aren't really very easy to figure out from the terrible pictures and jargon filled instructions, far more often than not it makes things easier, and at least from the number and complexity of the steps you get an idea of how long it will take and if you want to do the job or get help with it
11:00 I used to work for a roadside company, and the advice they gave us when doing tire changes was 2 things: always use the stock spare change tools in spite of issuing all of us hydraulic jacks, and make sure you use the jack points. The reason for these two points is simply liability coverage. Several times I had jack points fail to live up to their purpose(IE damage the car), but because I used the included tools and designated point, the company and my job were safe.
11:51 there's honestly a chance I designed that noise suppressor. They were initially used on passenger car vehicles (tiny turbos) to reduce noise however when it was discovered they also improved efficiency and helped with surging we started using them on commercial applications as well. If you remove the noise suppressor you'll get more noise but you'll also actually loose efficiency as well. That design is "cheap and simple" but the motorsports team made some insane optimized ones that really allow the recirculating airflow to efficiently re enter the main flow stream without causing much turbulence. TLDR: leave the noise suppressor in if you wanna go fast.
On second pass based on the nut on the compressor wheel I'd say that's not one I did. Looks like it may be an MHI turbo although on larger turbos I'm used to seeing them use copper nuts.
I’ve seen the same video over and over and no believe it does enough to keep it in over noise. If you don’t care too much abt efficiency then sure take it out. Let it scream! But if power and fuel economy are your main concern then leave it in. Your best bet is to just delete your emission for better fuel economy and power
As a scientist, I can tell you: the coffee filter stand-in for emergency lint-free wipes is 100% true. I've used them myself. Wouldn't use them for anything delicate like cleaning optics, but for most purposes they will do in a pinch.
I'm pretty sure most scientists use coffee filters for brewing coffee because in the movies they are always spending weeks straight in the lab trying to find a way to stop humanity from going extinct. Obviously all my knowledge comes from movies and television. Obviously.
First time replacing my drive shaft this happened to me, car was on a hill and would have crashed into my other car, thankfully my jack was right underneath the car and the tire hit it and stopped. Learned a very valuable lesson. And felt like an idiot for not realizing that was going to happen.
As someone who fiddles with first surface mirrors, lenses, and optics for lasers, telescopes, and microscopes, the coffee filter as a low lint/lint free wipes is 100% true! I tried so many other wipe alternatives, including making an updraft hood, and a filtered cross flow hood to keep stuff off of optics I was cleaning to avoid buying kemwipes all the time, cheap basic no frills coffee filters absolutely work for cleaning surfaces without leaving fuzzies. HOWEVER, you can still scratch mirror finishes or optical coatings, so be careful (if you're doing optics stuff, that is. I imagine steel cylinder walls are a bit more resilient that a few atoms of optical coating).
Note about the nut on the tie rod: You have a much lower chance of damaging threads and making it difficult to remove by hitting the knuckle instead. No, really. 2-3 hard hits and it pops right off.
10:48 The guy responded to his video due to all the blowback he received. He had the correct jack point, but he was using two hockey pucks to make contact between the jack and the car. As you can see, his garage has a crack in the floor, so his jack wasn't moving as the car was being lifted, causing the pucks to shift. Before he could catch it, disaster struck (pucks slipped off, car connected with the jack OFF the jack point, and voila).
He should have placed it correctly and purchased slotted extenders. Or, he could have used *ONE* puc and slotted it with... ... any number of ways. Not that he needed them: that jack had plenty of lift left and why was he lifting the car, on the side, for any other purpose than to change a tire? Was he hoping the stiffness would raise the other side? He cannot put a jack stand where the jack, he was using, should be.
@@LilRedDog not sure if its the same case here but I've worked on a couple of my buddies cars that are too low to the ground to get a jack under it so you put the back end up on ramps and now you cam fit a jack under the side but not the front
@@hankhasemeier6887 I can see that happening. If that were true here, why in the world did he add two, slippery, spacers? And he should have had the wheels pointed in the direction the jack would need to go. Look at the jack wheels: The ONLY way the jack has to go is sideways.
Been turning wrenches for 😭😭 52 years, you guys were totally, absolutely, beyond a doubt, keeeeerect on all the tictoc assessments. The pile of pucks when jacking, and wheel chock advisements were my favorites, now I know what look I had on my face those many years ago.
Funny thing about a battery powered ratcheting wrench is that it still works like a non powered without the battery. He could've broke it loose manually instead of "neutral drop"
My dad used to be a farmer and he worked on all of his own equipment and I was brought up with this fundamental dislike of engineers and their inability to foresee real world application, problems and solutions… Engineers!?! I feel you on that one
@@fransmith8992 it’s true …problem solvers extraordinaire. Physics, geometry, algebra and chemistry Also, electrical, construction, plumbing, meteorology, psychiatry, first aid, love, toughness, survival skills…. You know, life😄 farmers for Nobel prize!! My dad is awesome ..just sayin.
@@gooby1648 he actually sold out of farming and ended up as a department head in the Battelle laboratory organization… based primarily on his ability to streamline applications and maximize efficiency in the mechanical processes of their labs. I still stand in awe of my …Mc/dad/Gyver and his brain power
The coffee filter thing is pretty neat, would have to see the oil filter after running it, lint from regular and heavy duty paper towels will actually clog an oil pickup tube and filter, you may not even see the lint when assembling the engine.
Coffee filter is totally legit. They're used in PC builds and with some painting to apply solvents or other chemicals/compounds without risk of leaving behind lint or fibrous residue.
There's a big difference trying to save money working on your own stuff and trying to save money and being comfortable cutting some corners, and charging professional prices for the best you can offer. This makes all the difference on some of these.
I Agree I'm not a mechanic, I'm an engineer, I.T. and Telecommunications so sometimes my clients will want to install their own TV Antenna's sometimes they try to put their own TV on their wall Now let's address those 2 shall we without going into any further stupidity I get that they are trying to save money and AS LONG AS YOU DON'T FUCK ANYTHING UP... Good for you, go for it, i have no problem with it because i didn't have to come out to fix it HOWEVER.... Putting up your own TV Antenna can cause you to fall off your own roof and kill yourself (there is a reason we are called professionals, there is a reason we have training) Putting up your own TV on a wall (my fucking god , can this one end up bad or what ?) well, first there is - Not knowing what measurements to take - then you fuck it up, so you end up with like 15 holes in your wall - then you have to figure out how to patch them up LMFAO - Now if you finally get the tv put on the wall, Most times you won't bother with studs, if that happens and your tv is big enough you may literally rip the gyprock off your wall and your tv will end up broken on the floor, PLUS YOU HAVE A MIN. $5,000 REPAIR TO DEAL WITH (instead of paying someone $300 or so ) to do it properly - Then you have metal studs - You may have a stud finder and it beeps and you figured YES!!! THAT'S A STUD but instead..... NO!!!!! IT'S A FUCKING POWER CABLE you drill in the wall confident as shit and you may actually kill yourself or.... You don't die, but you take out your electrical circuit and now you need to paid an electrician $600 to fix what you thought was a quick job NOW.. ASSUMING YOU DON'T FUCK UP ANYTHING AND YOU DIDN'T KILL YOURSELF which is a small chance first off you need to also understand - In your own home, you don't give a fuck as long as you saved money - As a professional however, Tradesman need to consider, Insurance, Efficiency , speed of the job, Time is Money etc etc Safety , will this next roof that i step on cave in on me and will i die so when you paid a tradesman you pay for a lot there's experience, there's knowledge , there's insurance, there's Piece of Mind , a lot goes into it so ... Try it yourself, for sure, BUT MAKE DAMN SURE YOU DON'T FUCK YOURSELF IN THE PROCESS
Its good to have professional opinions on many of the things you see or hear online on car fixes. You never know what you doing gonna fix or harm your car more. I've been friend with a few old school mechanics and many tines i had an earfull when i was about ti do something stupid but in the end, my 25 yrs old car still run like almost brand new. Love that old car even i have newer one as i stick with me thru thick and thin. Never been stranded roadside.
Using "old school" method is often only trustworthy on older vehicles OR if they're still working on new ones and have current experience to go with the old. I have a relative with tons of experience on cars up to the 80s/90s, but he has broken a few things on newer cars using the old ways. And even some older cars may be unusual, so always do the research. For example, he wanted to use a C-clamp to compress the rear brake caliper cylinder on a 90s Miata. Nope.
@@espokane hi there. Correct sir and agree with you. Once a friend of mine disconnected a newer vehicle's throttle body for cleaning but did as how he been doing for an older vehicle. Cleaned and moved the internal parts by hand. He later had to replace that throttle body. So knowing how to fix 80s and 90s vehicle doesn't mean all can be applied to newer ones. Some of the basic like wheel, brakes, light bulb/LED, coolant, lubs and fluid may remain the same but many part have changed and you do need to do research and have knowledge before tackling the newer vehicles. Thanks for the info and reminder. Cheers
Another way to pop tie rods is by hitting the knuckle/spindle. Where the threads sit in, that area is generally very tough and you can smack tf out of it w out damaging anything. Im a Nissan technician and i use this daily for anyone wondering. (If you miss and hit the threads, its curtains for the tie rod though lmao)
The first one definitely needs to be done with a brake pad, to make sure you push the piston in evenly, and don't damage the points of contact for the new pads. The neutral drop hack where they're taking the seat out, um... why? Just break it loose, then hit your trigger. The box end wrench wire loom hack? You bet I'm adopting that one.
Firs the brakes my father always used this piece of wood (It was a name place, treated wood, they made a typo on), and a simple C clamp. Worked like a charm, ensured even pressure
@@Ange1ofD4rkness yeah, that works too. Really just about even pressure and using something that won't mess up the surface, so wood, being softer than metal, is perfect too.
@@colbyscott9822 exactly. It's just laziness. Takes a few seconds to switch to a beefier ratchet, break the bolt loose, then switch back to your electric or air ratchet and back it out quickly.
2:39 could work, but honestly I just index the bolt and mating surface so I know how many degrees I've turned it. Showing that you've turned a bolt/nut 45, 90 or 180 degrees doesn't require a $500 wrench.
An angle adapter is only like $20 and won't slide off the wrench. I wouldn't use it for racing or aviation were precision is needed, but it works just fine for the average rebuild.
So I’m a public transportation mechanic in San Diego county, I can say with great certainty that many of these hacks have been used by mysef and others in my field, we used coffee filters on many rebuilds to clean up some carbon that was left behind and on transmission for removing clutch materials. The belt and boxes end pulley holder is 50/50 as some of our pulleys are held on with more torque so we can’t do that but it does work on automotive for sure!
I have seen the soap in the coolant reservoir hack performed before, not to clean the reservoir but to clean the cooling system after the oil cooler leaked and allowed oil and coolant to mix. You use liquid detergent ( I believe the tech used Wisk ) and you only put 1/4 cup in and then you have to flush with just water several times to get everything out of the system.
Dawn works sort-of-okay, better than the other dish soaps I've seen tried, but the purple degreaser stuff is better in my experience. The heater core is often overlooked, and it doesn't respond as well to the detergents because the flow through it is not all that fast, so I like to give it a direct flush with a siphon gun if there's a way to access the hoses easily. Otherwise, it may come back gummed up with emulsified oil sludge. No matter what else you do, flush it enough to get all of the detergent out or you're asking for foaming to cause cooling problems.
@@bageltondinglequandaleseba6928 Right, I’ll send someone over to pick it up and inspect it, what make and model of car is it and what is the address of its current location?
The jackpoints are easy to figure out, the cars i had (VW, Citroën, Volvo) had markers on the chassis, like little triangles, or a small flange that did fit in a slot in the lifting pad. That last one was pretty clever, because that also prevents the jack from slipping out.
Best jack points I've ever seen, as long as they're not rotten, is the ones on a Porsche 914. You take a plug off, slide a bar into the car, and the jack doesn't even go underneath. Hard to mess that up lol.
On VW it’s basically impossible to get it wrong. My dad got me to replace tires as a kid and I never got it wrong. When you put the top of the jack in the correct spot it basically can’t move in any direction
The real issue is that the jack was not rolling forward because the floor is so pitted. As it was lifting up the puck was sliding outwards under the car instead of staying with the car as it was lifted. Had the floor not been so pitted, and the jack was able to roll to stay under the jack point, then this may have been prevented.
@@boostaddict_ My mates old 93 w124 mercedes has that system but we both hate it lol. Takes ages to jack up a single wheel and the jack that came with the car is almost falling apart by now even though the car is almost immaculately taken care of. Still have to use it though because it's lowered and we can't fit a normal jack underneath it
Coffee filters make excellent lint free towels. I've always used then to clean my car windshield and they don't leave a speck of lint behind. They also make great phone cleaners and they're great for quickly cleaning off optical sensors. Any time my bill validator quits working well at work, a quick wipe with a filter cleans it.
As someone who knows very little about car maintenance, I've never been more convinced (I was already up there but anyway) that I should leave all of the whatever to the professionals. I'm sometimes proud of the things I know or the things I can do in life. Whenever I feel like my head is getting a little too big, I lift the hood of my car, look inside, and remind myself that I don't know anything.
@5:59 - This is always a good sign when someone is purporting, in even the most remote sense, to be an auto repair professional: Pouring with the quart bottle's offset spout toward the ground. Almost as if exhibiting an unthinking, contrarian spite, in extreme overkill to any possible feelings elicited by the innocent little diagram, stamped into the neck of the very bottle he's pouring from, between his hand and the opening. Spout toward the *top* while pouring; not toward the bottom (like we all seem to default to, before we learn better). He can be forgiven for a bad pour, while holding a phone... But he just spills immediately, thanks to disregarding the diagram. When you hold it spout-down, you can't pour it fast enough to keep it from dribbling down the side of the bottle, while also pouring _slow_ enough to keep incoming air pockets from disrupting the fluid flow - giving you the uncontrollable "glug glug glug" we all know from rinsing out a milk jug, or other large plastic bottle. Rather than cleanly pouring, or having rags or a funnel - any of which would telegraph a modicum of experience - there's nothing to keep it from dribbling down onto, you know, _a wide selection of important rubber parts that petroleum-based oils/fluids/greases will cause to soften and disintegrate._ The only thing that would make sense, after that total biff, is an exasperated narrator exclaiming "there's gotta be a better way!"
Coffee filter as a wipe seems like a fantastic idea, they are clean and protected for shipping. The angle on torqueing bolts is not great, but is using a 30 year old torque wrench that has never been calibrated any better?
I had a craftsman microtork torque wrench that was about 15 years old and had been set to 90 ft-lb for about 10 years. I thought it would definitely be wrong so I bought one of the digital ones that is attached like a socket extension. Surprisingly, the torque wrench was still perfect all across the torque range. And even though I hadn't used it in 10 years, I used it a LOT the first 10 years I had it.
The correct tool is a Torque Angle Gauge. It doesn't matter how worn the torque wrench is: the dial goes between the socket and the wrench. Provided you know what you are doing, it would work fine. BTW: most guys never seem to understand that if you zero a torque wrench EVERY TIME you are done using it, the likelihood of stretching the spring and changing the calibration is almost nullified. NOTHING is worse than finding someone left your torque wrench set on 120 ft-lbs when you have to torque a bolt at 65! Very, VERY frustrating!
@@Av8orDave I like your story but I'm confused about the maths 🤣 how can you use it for 10 years, then barely use it for another 10 years, and then after all the wrench is only 15 years old? 🤔
Hint to the guy pouring atf into the oil fill..turn the bottle 180 and put the pour spout on the high side so you don't dump half your fluid down the side of the bottle. The container will be closer to horizontal before the fluid comes out. Thats why ALL containers are made this way.
10:30 I’ve added every extension we had once to get the bolts off my sister’s transmission so we could take the engine out. It was like 15 extensions that made it 3-4 feet long. My dad and his friend didn’t think it would work but it totally did and they were so surprised when the bolt broke loose. 😂
@@maltinamaltina2665 no there was mad slack and it was all harbor freight ratchets lol. That’s why we were so surprised. We totally thought it was gonna break something.
The "neutral drop" works great. Honda 3.5 timing belt jobs, removing the 10mm bolts on the covers with a battery ratchet. Do about 3 of them a week and after learning this a year or so ago saves a ton of time and knuckles lol
I find this all funny as I am a seasoned diesel tech, Id love see one of these for the heavy duty side of things. Not pickups but commercial trucks. I've seen a lot of funky or off the wall repairs that have been made previously by either drivers or other mechanics.
A note on the nut-over-the-threaded-end thing that I'm surprised nobody mentioned (maybe they did but it was edited out) is if you're reinstalling the same tie rod end, often those nuts are castle nuts - flip them upsidedown so that you beat on the smooth surface, and the castled section is not damaged by the hammer. Screw them on flush with the end then back them off a quarter or half turn so that there's no contact between the hammer and rod end, but you have as many threads grabbed as possible to minimize the strain on each thread surface.
When you remove a tie-rod end, you loosen the nut then strike the CAST outer part, not the end of the threads. The shock onto the spindle shocks the tie-rod out of the taper. There is NEVER any need to strike the threaded end or nut.
The pickle fork WILL tear up the rubber seal EVERY time. I try flipping the nut first, and hammer it gently without ruining it. It's either for SURR destroy the grease seal, or possibly bung up the threads. Either way, your screwed. Sometimes beating on the upside down but WORKS, and you wont tear up the seal. You have nothing to lose, and everything to gain, if you can get it off by the nut method. Just know when to call it quits before you bung the threads up.
The dish washing tablet to clean cooling system is actually how I was taught to clean oil from your cooling system. Example, oil cooler cracks and fills system with oil, a non foaming detergent is the best way to remove the oil aka dishwashing powder/tablet. That header tank though is BS. It was new
06:00 I love how the sign on the container specifically shows you how to pour the fluid out and yet this guy does it all wrong. Definitely makes me want to take his advice!
It might be different for german cars but on some of the VWs and Opels I've worked on you had to "thread" that piston back in. Only pushing on it wouldn't work, you'd need rotation as well. We got crafty a few times, pushing the piston in with a big pipe wrench and turning it with a smaller one. I got one of those piston reset toolkits for 30 bucks now and don't mess around anymore.
@@Life_of_Matthew Because they're expensive RC cars now with a subscription model. If you didn't think a car brand could get to Blizzard/Activision levels of scum, there you have it.
Dishwasher detergent in coolant reservoir, yes actually. Done that when you get oil in the coolant and have to flush the system out. Just don't leave it in there. Need something that doesn't foam and can cut through oil and grease. Dishwasher detergent by design doesn't lather or foam up. Now, it doesn't clean as well as the video lied about, but yes. I've put detergent in cooling systems before. 15 year diesel mechanic
@@FinalBossMusic depends on how big the coolant system is. We put a couple cups in with a gallon of hot water for a 12 gallon cooling system on trucks. A dishwasher pod is good for the couple gallons in a dishwasher. Tide pod is different.
@@tblosser8921 I use the powder soap. Anything that foams or bubbles may cavitate in the engine and cause hot spots. That and the water pump causing turbulence will form bubbles too.
I've seen someone before do this when they blew the head gasket on a truck they were rescuing and driving home. I'd never heard of having to clean the oil residue out of the coolant system. I'm sure it makes it cool more efficiently, but I've never done this on any vehicles I've done head gasket jobs on and I've never had a bit of trouble with overheating. I think the vid I saw was possibly Vice Grip Garage (sorry if it wasn't you), and I think he did use dish soap to clean the system. They dumped the sudsy/oily water, did a straight water rinse and dump, and filled it back up with coolant and hit the road after all the repairs... Seemed to work OK. Will say using dishwasher detergent makes a LOT more sense due to the non-lathering but still grease cutting qualities.
@@mdemers767 I'm usually doing this on diesels that have the oil cooler fail. That's more typical than a head gasket. It gets a LOT of oil in the system sometimes takes several rounds of soap and water to get it clean. Flush with water a couple times to get all the caustic soap out and then change the coolant reservoir.
The coolant reservoir one, if you look at the bolt/screw that's holding it in, you can see that the grooves where the head of the Phillips head goes in changes. Dirty one, one of the grooves looks like it could line up with the edge of the tank, but the "clean (new)" one, one of the lines would diagonally go across it.
@@61rampy65 Good observation. Of course, this is ignoring the obvious fact that the outside goes from dirty to miraculously clean. Like, how is the inside supposed to clean the outside like that? Not only that, but only clean the tank and nothing else? What's even worse is that there are people who will believe it despite how obviously fake it is.
In the final clip, the 90* ramp cover over the ported housing is actually detrimental to performance. The sound would be slightly louder. But the function of a ported compressor cover is to minimize surging of the turbo which is caused by a choke in flow from the compressor cover. Ported cover alleviates this issue. Resulting in a flow increase of about ~5% depending on application.
The extension trick is definitely one that everyone has used at some point. I was just doing some work with a car, that the bolts and screws (two of each) were on the firewall, about 8" deep behind supporting metal. There was room to get my hand, or a wrench, kinda, but not both. To get to the screws, and to be able to put a rachet on them, I had a u-joint, and a couple sloppy loose extensions on. Not wobble extension, they were just really worn. And to see what I was doing, I was using an endoscope. The jack drop was horrible. I'm always worried that will happen. As such, I do extra checks constantly, just to make sure I'm both on the right spot, and that the jack hasn't moved while I was starting to lift it. There is no harm in rechecking it. There IS harm in it slipping, bending body metal and the door frame. Poor guy. Hopefully that was a learning experience for him. I hope the body shop is gentle, but I doubt that will be cheap.
That belt and wrench is basically an improvised strap wrench. At least I think that's what they're called we always had a few of them growing up since we had a pool and they work really well on different pvc fittings and especially oil filters but we always called them bob villa tools, who I assume had a commercial or something for them that my dad saw.
You're exactly correct!! I'm a retired Industrial Multi-Craft tech and my best strap-wrench over anything out there, is made by RIGID. It uses a heavy-duty canvas material for the strap. The wetter and/or more oil saturated it gets, the better it grips. The camming/tightening action of the handle is superb!! There's nothing that I've found and tried out there for removing oil filters to turning large motor shafts without damaging them, that comes even close to this strap wrench.
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT I have a thick leather strap wrench that I've had for years. It's always there when i need it. As a plus, the older I got, the larger the working diameter got. Yep, if all else fails, the belt comes off and I hope that I can get whatever the issue is loosened before my pants fall completely down.
As a mechanic trained by my dad, I miss my Volvo 240 brick. They designed that car to be a joy to work on. Wheel bearings, ac compressor, engine mounts, practically everything on that car can be worked on without removing much else.
I did a bunch of work on a 1991 240 wagon recently. The hardest part was getting IN the car, I thought Swedes were supposed to be tall but apparently they designed it for people with legs that are only 2 feet long.
@@300DBenz true, I'm 6' and 280 and sometimes struggle getting into mine. That's why they all have broken door pockets haha! However in their defence, the basic design for the 240 goes all the way back to the mid-1960s (from the firewall back, the car is basically a 144 /145) and I guess people were smaller back then.
@@johnsmith6256 agreed, the joke being that Volvo started out with the blower motor and built the rest of the car around it. Not funny to anyone who has ever had to change one out. Its a dash-out, whole-weekend job. Still great cars though. Everything else is so easy to work on, loads of room in the engine bay yo get to everything. (Owner of a blue 1982 244DL here in the UK.)
To be fair, somehow a firestone mechanic switched some wires in my car- It caused an engine light on. And about two thousand or more dollars in trying to fix it. And going to about 4 different places to fix it. The only mechanic I use now is in the middle of nowhere, but they’re honest and they get worked done fast
Those small shops in the middle of nowhere are often the best ones. The only mechanic I ever go to if I can possibly help it is a tiny little shop next to the railroad tracks in a town with 7,000 people in it. I have actually walked in the door in the middle of them telling a customer that yes, they can absolutely replace his transmission if he really wants them to, but the one he has is perfectly fine.
Middle of nowhere guys can't risk being shitheads lol. Word gets around that they're a ripoff, and their paycheck dries up. If they were in a big city, there would always be another sucker.
Two things for that emblem hack. One, new emblems are supposed to come with small silicone sleeves on the prongs- makes it hold better. There are none on that. Two, just wrap a small prybar in painters tape, or use a plastic bar, and it'll pop right off. No damage, easy as pie.
5:55 I typically put in about a half quart of atf a day or two before before an oil change to help clean any residual build-up in the oil pan. Something my great grandad taught me.
@@tl5108 hydraulic oil will clean the pickup screen by softening deposits...however modern detergent oil does all of that anyway from day one. Adding stuff isn't really needed unless you find a motor with no oil changes in 40k miles. Back pre 1955 many cars had no filter, just a pump screen you had to drop the pan to clean. Oil waa oil...non detergent. It was intended to clump to gather metal debris and dirt. You oil changed every 3000 mi to get rid of the dirt trapped in the clumpy oil. That's where we get the change your oil every 3k myth...it was at one time good practice in a nation with a surplus of oil. However that was 80 years ago.
The angle gauge with your phone seems pretty legit. Its the same tech that torque wrenches with built in angle finder use as well. I do agree if your engine builder showed you that, I would want my money back because if they skimp out on buying a good torque wrench/angle gauge, what else did they cheap out on. But if its like, 10pm and this thing has to be running at 7am and you don't have an angle gauge, I see no problem with it.
Most specs are 45 or 90 degrees. Just use a sharpie to put a mark on the bolt and use that to indicate. If you make it 92 or 86 degrees instead of 90, that 'close enough'.
the power steering thing has to do with a valve that regulates which direction the rack will move the steering. in this instance the valve is malfunctioning and basically toggle between turning left and right at a high rate of speed.
@@coryament yeah thats possible i guess i don't know how all new rack & pinion line fittings are these days. but on older models definitely pre 2000 the fittings for high pressure and low pressure lines were different sizes so such a mistake could not be made. at least on all american and imports i replaced racks on...
@@hellshade2 I'm talking about the small transfer tubes that go to the rack from the control valve not the main pressure and return hoses from the pump. Some cars it is easy to remove them to make more room for the rack to come out.
@@coryament ahh, okay. never did that myself but i retired in 2008 and i imagine some of these cars have gotten tighter to work on in areas. engineers never seem to realize that parts eventually wear out and might need to be replaced
9:44 i used to work as a shop hand in a dealership service shop and i helped an older mechanic unbolt and bolt up several transmissions on trucks. Easiest way to unbolt the top of the transmission from the engine was for him to stick 4-5 extensions together and i would hold the socket on the bolt while he stood 3 feet away at the BACK of the transmission to use the impact.
You don't always have access to the ends of the wires when you want to put a loom on them, try using a line wrench, that should get you around the problem.
I got my experience in the 70s , used many of these hacks , but question if they work on modern cars. We did put transmission fluid in a engine, but the purpose was to clean internals, if seals were leaking then half the time they leaked worse after , the high detergent fluid cleaned dirt out that was plugging leaks . But if it was a choice of trying this or rebuild then give it a try . We used add a quart 50 miles before the oil change and drive easy and a lot of times after 5 or 10 thousand miles it really quieted down noisy lifters . I think now days just using synthetic oil would do the same I did put laundry detergent in the rad , but you need to flush out all the antifreeze first . The reason is that the antifreeze neutralized the soap so it didn't work . Don't know if I would do it to a modern high tech engine
@@xsterawesome yea , and used oil , batteries , tires , almost everything. You can still go to old farm yards that have been abandoned 80 years and see the dark stain where the front door of the shop was . Everyone spread old oil on the road to hold down dust . Batteries got tossed in the ravine that filled the dugout for household water supply . Antifreeze got used to soak wood to preserve it
@@outinthesticks1035 I never heard of using antifreeze to treat wood, considering how toxic most wood treatments are I could not imagine antifreeze being much worse. The funny part is a random 90 year old man will complain about more people having cancer, down syndrome, bipolar disorders, allergies, etc. When they spent the majority of their life blowing lead dust out of tail pipe all over the country and use toxic chemicals for everything.
@@xsterawesome funny you mention that . I just watched a video the said they knew the danger of lead in gas 100 years , but never looked into alternatives . I've had a lot of friends with cancer and there seem to be two trends . Either they were young farmers when herbicide first came out , or they eat a lot of fast food and restaurant meals . There's a Lot of stuff I think they will find that is more dangerous than we think
If your front or rear seal leak then these hack are really designed to get you by until they get fixed. Maybe a few days. But they will leak even worse once the additive is consumed.
8:11 Just get some prying tool (or wrap a soft cloth on a regular screwdriver), get it going and then get in a flattened straw and just pull it up. No damage.
The one that used the compass to torque the caps holds some truth! I’ve used a similar method multiple times to clock turbos and it works like a charm every time!
actually the degree torque method is commonly used today combined with a torque wrench method, they have you torque the bolt to a specified torque (ie:90flb) then turn the bolt an additional 90deg. BUT using a phone like was used in that video was so inaccurate it's not funny. Watch the video and you will see the wrench moving while the phone doesn't move for the first movement of the wrench, that's a couple of degrees not registered on the phone compass which will throw the measurement off that much. inaccurate. To any trained seasoned mechanic this is laughable the way they showed it. The concept is sound though.
UH. I would never use a phone for that. A smart person would print a 360 degree gauge on paper and use that. Or if it's 60 degrees it's easy, just one flat side of a 6 point nut/bolt. Also can just go rent or buy the right tool too. Probably the safest idea like the mechanic said bolts like that usually hold very important parts together so I know I wouldn't wanna "Hack" my way through an engine or gearbox rebuild.
On the Audi.... Im not sure id use the POD, but 10/10 would and have run dishwasher soap. It works awesome when the cooler fails pumping oil into the coolant. You gotta get it out, but it works. HAHA Hey that next one is me THANKS YALL!!! Im glad the prop shaft guy lived!!! BE SAFE! Some of the things Ive seen on TT are SCARY AF! Be safe out there everyone! also they say "If it works, it aint stupid" BUT it can be both. LOL Also shoutout to Ms A!
3:48 Not a problem, I've done this many many times on trucks where the oil cooler seals fail, and it fills the coolant with engine oil. Swapping the cooler seals, filling it back up with straight water and dishwasher detergent and running it like that for an hour or so, drain and repeat once or twice. Then fill it back up with coolant, works a treat.
the ones that were good ideas looked very common sense stuff to keep in the idea tool chest. the belt on a wrench is basically like the Craftsman Strap Wrench that was sold ages ago. Hell I used a chain wrench once to pull up on the auto tensioner once in a truck so I could get the belt back on after doing a water pump replacement.
I got one for ya: I bought a 1996 BMW 318Ti drove it 6 years and had 330,000 miles. I never once performed a full oil change on it ever. I would add a half quart to a quart every month and a half or so. And used the cheapest Warren 10W30 motor oil I could find. It was still running when I sold it. Only issue that car ever gave me was a fuel pump relay and I grabbed one out of a junk yard.
But doesn’t ATF have detergent in it and that’s why people use it through an engine…to clean it? I’m young and dumb with this industry still so I genuinely don’t feel like I know for sure but I know a mechanic for 27 years who drained all his oil. Put plug in. Added 5 quarts of oil and 1 quart of ATF (6qt capacity) then let it run. Then after 10-15 minutes be drained it, replaced the filter a second time, and then did a normal oil change. It was supposed to clean the engine because of the detergent in the ATF according to him. Edit: and of course by detergent I don’t mean like shit in the laundry aisle at Walmart I mean it is a detergent. Engine oil and trans fluid have additive packages that do various things. One category of those additives are called detergents. Another, for example, are called pour-point depressants, which help the oil stabilize in changing temperatures. The ATF I heard functions well as a cleaner because of the specifics of the detergent additive, apart from softening seals as the video mentioned
@@Derek_Wyld i would Not put ATF in an engine. Or any oil that is not designed to put in an engine. The additives and oil are Not designed for that environment. Better use something without (so many) additives to clean the engine. Diesel can be used for example. But dont let it in there. Before an oil change, put some diesel in the oil (~200-500ml for a regular Car engine. dont know how much it is in imperial) let it run for 5-15 minutes and drain it. And If a seal is leaky, replace it. ATF (or anything else) wont fix it in the long run. And If a customer says "Just a quick and cheap fix, i want to sell that Car anyway", dont do it either. You are helping/supporting a duchebag ripping someone off. And If the engine gets damaged, the customer comes right back to you and demands a new engine because you destroyed it with your cheap "fix"
@@toml6092 From that I'm guessing these had either port injection or carbureted fuel systems? DI systems especially when turbocharged (possibly supercharged too, but I haven't seen data) are prone to soot/carbon buildup on the valves and can cause timing and seating problems if not checked and cleaned when needed. This is why I said I'm concerned about the effects the ATF might have in my specific engine type. If you've done it on a DI system that would be good to know.
@@skurblord3401 Agree. Luckily mine are from my father 1920's/40's or even Navy WWII maybe? (he had a lot of quality stuff, and solid tool steel, but many these days I've seen on Amazon, AliExpress etc etc are cheap crap.
I have legit got ran over by breaking the drive shaft free and it rolled on to my chest drug me 6 feet down the driveway and over me needless to say it was painful
As a previous Lexus GSF owner, I felt Dude’s pain 😖. My wife begged and begged to drive it……she pulls out of driveway……15 minutes later she’s back with the front clip hanging off…..They are great low key track cars BTW
About that coolant reservoir: I worked in a shop for quite some time and we had multiple repair requests for blown oil coolers over the time so engine oil was pushed and mixed into the cooling system. Of course you change the oil cooler and engine oil and then try to clean out the cooling system and for what ever reason for most of the time all we had in stock to do that was laundry cleaner which is terrible in cleaning oil. Afterwards we swapped in a new reservoir and filled the system, but as soon as these cars returned for the next service the new coolant reservoir looked just like the old one. At least until one day some clever person on the stock came to the idea to order some proper cooling system cleaner just to show that an old dirty reservoir can look just like the new one if the right chemicals are used. At least for the oil and water toxic grey green chocolat milkshakey thing.
I had an 84' Turbo T-Bird and use to love the Turbo sound. I traveled 200 miles a day and put 200K of the 250K on it before I sold it and the turbo still made that sweet music. I changed the oil once a month, but the rest of the car... the electrical system wasn't Ford Quality Job One. Job #52 I think. The temperature sensor switch went out every year. I finally installed a toggle switch (well, my intelligent brother did) to turn my cooling fan off and on.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
You can see how nervous James is with that old school mechanic, he didn't wanna say anything goofy 🤣
Because them old heads will tell you when they think something you’re saying is stupid.
XD
I thought that dude was Montel Williams in the thumbnail lol
Just look at him, that Ese might give James a smack if he gets out of line. Looks like he might have learned auto mechanics while he was doing a bid.
Ya he keeps looking over before he says anything lol
That bit where the car started rolling on the guy scared the hell outta me.
In 1982, when I was 8 years old, I was playing in my friend's back yard while his dad was changing his oil in the yard with the front of the car on blocks. Unfortunately, he neglected to chock his wheels and, considering the blocks were on dirt, he wasn't in a very safe location. He was under the car when it rolled backwards off the blocks, crushing his chest. His mom called 911 and my friend and I watched his dad die over the course of about 5 minutes. The ambulance arrived only a couple of minutes after the man passed. I can still hear my friend's mom screaming and the gurgling that man made as he tried to breathe with a shattered chest. This was an awful and excruciating way to die and I had nightmares almost nightly for the next year or so. Hell, I still have occasional nightmares about it today (40 years later).
Do yourself a favor. Chock your friggin wheels!
Holy god damn. Was he trapped under the car still? Not that being free would help much with a crush ribcage
@@michaelwerkov3438 The car kind of "bounced" on the shocks when it fell off the blocks and the "bounce" is what crushed his chest, so he wasn't really trapped, but he wasn't going anywhere. He had blood coming out of his mouth, nose, eyes, and ears and he couldn't get enough air to say a single word. Like I said, I still have nightmares about it today, 40 years later. If you ever work under a car, make damned sure that car can't move while you're under there.
@@watchyourtimeco1 facts thats why I shake the hell out of my car whenever I'm getting ready to get under it😂 and always triple check! Rather have it fall and break something than have it fall on me. That story was horrifying btw I feel for u.
150 bucks for a wallet hahaha what a joke! Store a 1/4 of your cards and cash but pay 10 times more. No thanks
Oh man I bet the noises were incredible
All the guest stars were amazing. The guy with James really radiated "stern but super knowledgable dad" energy
The type guy where if you get on his good side you'll learn a lot from his experience but if you date his daughter, you'll always be questioning if the crowbar he's holding is for you or the car
They were all great, give that lady mechanic a permanent gig on the show guys come on
No, this was trash hosting trash, bus rider. Buy a car and hit the forums, this channel is literally for people with skateboards and BMX bikes.
The girl was brain dead fym lmaoo
@@emrico1 wow really? 🤣
My favorite mechanic anecdote came from a letter a pilot had wrote to Readers Digest & went (something) like this..
During the last hundred miles or so of my flight I was concerned about a noise coming from my left hand engine although there seemed to be no effect on performance. After landing and taxing to the hanger I found the overnight ground crew mechanic was on his break so I left him a note that said "Unfamiliar tapping sound coming from lefthand engine"
On arrival at work the next day I was handed a note from the previous nights mechanic that said..
"Ran engine all night, noise is now familiar"
Ayo bruh FAMILIAR?!?
@@symphinitystugiii3476 That is the right spelling isn't it?
@@chipsthedog1yes and no I'm not talking about spelling it's the story ok ✓ :)
🤣🤣🤣
This kind of story reminds me of something I read in an unrelated field. In Brian Herbert's biography of his dad, Frank Herbert, he tells of how his dad always kept a pen and pad next to his bed so he could jot down ideas he had in his sleep.
One morning the family hears Frank Herbert cursing after waking up.
It turned out that all he wrote down in the middle of the night was, "I just had the most awesome story idea!"
The forged vs. cast joke in the beginning made me do the half swallow half laugh and choke on hot coffee. Real mechanic stuff.
"Believe the experts,Enjoy your life"
"Believe the tiktok, Ruin your life"
As an ASE certified master tech this is great to see. Most yt videos and tiktoks are full of misinformation
I haven't professionally turned a wrench in over a decade. In my sliver years I watch YT vids to help me decide if doing it myself is actually cheaper or done rite the 1st time. Some jobs it's Hell No; take my money. lol
As a person with eyeballs i have to agree
a lot of people have janky ass busted "modified" cars.
Yeah. Agree
As a certified personal trainer, TikTokers had already poison the fitness industry.
I always questioned how plastic wedges could stop a car from rolling until I forgot to remove them and tried to drive. That thing didn't budge and now I trust wheel chocks completely 🤣
You can tell a real mechanic just by the way he talks. Dude knew the lines were backwards. My mind went to the GM issue where the angel sensor fails and tries to “find center” but it does a 5° spin to either side.
*angle
i think its not about real mechanic, its about experience
i do believe they are all real mecanic just some is not have a high fly time
@@StanleyKubick1 No, he meant angel. If the angel sensor fails, a demon can possess your car.
@@MyChevySonic i have an idea, i'm gonna buy a challenger sxt and disable all my angel sensors, then hopefully i'll get a Demon
I’m a biologist with no mechanic experience, and I watched that power steering fail and thought to myself “the connections are backwards”. I don’t believe that girl is a mechanic if she didn’t even know that
The extension hack reminded me of when I was trying to do the brakes on my VW. It’s a triple square socket, and I could only find 3/8 drive locally. The idiots that had the car before me never changed the rotors out, so the caliper bolts were crusted into the holes (aluminum hun with steel bolts on a then 10 year old car in Pennsylvania). My air impact wouldn’t do the job, so my dad and I got an idea. We had a 3/8th adapter on the socket, with about 3 feet of extensions, to a 1/2 inch breaker bar, with a 4 foot jack handle and me jumping on it. We broke three adapters but it by god we got it done lmao
After fighting with few pairs of rear discs in golf mk4/5 based cars and cursing on engineers responsible for brake carrier fit, I found out you can just leave the carriers on, and still be able to take off and fit new discs (and I think it also works with front ones as well).
I’ve had to use the old cheater bar technique a few times myself. I’ve also broken several nice socket wrenches doing it lol. So if you have no other option try and use a cheap wrench is my advice. That way you won’t be out so much $ if you do snap your wrench.
Haven't had to do anything like that but I've run into a few "you know, this probably worked great when they tested it with pristine parts instead of actual use conditions." Bolts that would just spin so you had to figure out how to secure the other side (which would be in some crevice or the other side of the car), stuff like that.
I stripped the last one so i just used my grinder on the head, popped the rotor off and used pliers on bolt. Was replacing them anyways. Took like 5 mins
Vietnam flashbacks to me trying to get the axle nut off my mk4 Jetta. 18in 1/2 drive breaker bar with a FULL jack handle to get that bad boy off.
The unchocked car one really resonated with me but for a different yet similar reason. As a pilot and specifically a flight instructor I can safely say that many flight schools, FBOs etc don't have level ramps and chocking planes isn't just enforced, it's necessary. At one airport I flew into, I saw a Cessna slowly start rolling across a ramp toward a $8 million King Air and a student frantically chasing it. He didn't catch it. Nobody was hurt as both planes were empty at the time.. nobody except the accountant at his flight school, probably. But from that day I always made sure I remembered to chock my aircraft at unfamiliar fields and tell my students to do the same.
As a cargo Ramp Agent I have seen what happens. At our field we have a separate person talking to the pilot during a pushback. Batmobile lowers, and the plane starts rolling around when they forget to ask the pilots for break while telling the pushback to undock.
At Nellis AFB we'd see ladders "walking" down the parking apron in the strong winds because someone left them standing unattended instead of laying them down on the ground.
@@HiroNguy Did the aliens ever make those mistakes?
@@atuck6082 😆😆😆😆 Of course! How else you suppose they learned telekinesis to make ladders walk? You don't think it was the wind, do you? That'd be too simple and logical a 'splanation.
Belts are good for removing all kinds of things from cars... like filters and shafts
The wire trick is used by electricians all over
Both of those are something I just learned now
Coffee filters can also be used for detecting fuel in the engine oil, drop a little onto the filter and watch it expand out, if its tainted the fuel will travel outward quicker than the oil, leaving a ring.
Would never work for me as I would quickly run it of filters from making coffee
there are lab analyses that work similarly! 👍
@@daszieher someone gives you a right here right now practical solution and your answer is I rather send it out and wait 12 days 🤌🏽🤓
@@joshuachandra6677 Ah, I probably wasn't clear enough.
I meant to say that that is a great solution, because professional laboratories use the same effect with paper strip tests of characteristics very similar to coffee filters.
Low tech chromatography. Nice.
The comment in the vid about mechanics hating engineers is very true hah. When I was doing my mech eng degree an ex chief engineer from Ford was our lecturer. I quizzed him on why their designs made it extremely difficult to work on some models, and whether they put any thought into that - the answer - basically zero thought. The vehicle was designed to last for five years, after that it would be scrapped and the difficult parts would theoretically never actually need replacing.
As you can guess, I hate working on Fords!
We had to spend about 2 engineering units worth of time with mechanics to lessen the chance of us designing something that’s impossible to work on.
As a software engineer we do the same with code. Maintainability? Eh, only if project isn't behind schedule...and we're always behind schedule. (only slight exaggeration)
For this reason i wanna have a talk with the guy who designed the 2001 Nissan Altima lmfao🤣
One of my aerospace engineering professors liked to emphasize in our design class that "a mechanic is gonna have to get his hand or a tool in there" for maintenance and repairs.
Hino comes to mind. Most components can't be accessed without tearing apart several other unrelated parts.
As a retired Bureau of Standards Lab Tech, I TOTALLY approve of the Coffee Filter Hack. It's a trick we used in the Lab to clean or lubricate extremely precision equipment.
I feel like I'm to dumb to be here
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt Don't feel bad. I'm almost 70 and I'm still learning tricks, and I've been a wrench bender since I was a kid in my Dad's garage at his Sinclair Station.
@@WilliamEades_Frostbite yeah but you actually have the brain capacity to understand what these words mean. I genuinely don't believe I could ever even remember all of the things it takes to build an engine.
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt I've lost track of the number of times I used a Shop Manual to work on something. That is why I have always bought the factory service manual for every vehicle I've owned.
@@Aqu1ls_Curr3nt Idk man they're really not that complicated when it comes down to it. Yes they're hard to put together and have many many components that all need to be vey precisely installed but I took an engine apart in my pre apprenticeship class 6 years ago and it was not that hard to do. I still remember most of the process and that's the only engine I've ever actually stripped down to an empty block, putting it together took a bit of effort and thought but yeah it's really not too complicated to get into. Don't doubt yourself before you try it, It was quite the expereience and it was so much fun holding the internals in my own hands and seeing what you never get to see
11:15 a good tip when using jack points from the side is make sure the wheels on your jack are pointing the right way and its rolling a little each time you lift. The jack should be able to roll or your jack point will move instead and slip off. This can happen if the ground you are on is pitted, too soft or there is something stuck under the jack wheels.
Being an aircraft mechanic (mainly working on small airplanes) modifying tools to get to stuff was the name of the game. I specifically bought cheaper sets of tools to rig them as needed, instead of using up my MAC or Snap-On tools.
Same. Been working on planes for over a decade. I have a harbor freight set of wrenches that are ground, bent, and chopped for various specific jobs, and a nice set for normal ops.
Like cylinder wrenches. Make them or buy them off an old guy.
And having worked with Military Chinook mechanics, I would _never never ever_ fly in a plane you worked on.
It's dangerous enough to play games with spec on a land based vehicle. It's a different level when your aviation mechanics get 'inventive' before you end up a mile in the air. There's a reason they never d*ck around with hacks or skip a castle nut & cotter. That's how news stories about 8 dead soldiers and 2 dead pilots happen.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing If the Chinook mechanics dicked around with specs or omitted hardware/steps, they were shit mechanics. Every aircraft mechanic has strict guides to follow, and modifying a tool by cutting it, grinding down it's thickness, or bending it - all to be able to gain access, is not dicking around with specs. I don't know how you made that leap.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing the fuck are you talking about. Modifying or making your own tools isnt dicking around with specs. In fact some Honeywell manuals ive dealt with literally give you instructions on how to make your own fixture or tool. As long as the part is in spec and operates correctly it really doesnt matter what you use to do it.
4:44 Random Auto Shop Story Time...Years ago when I was young working at a brake/muffler shop, with little experience. I was trying to remove a stuck u-joint out of a drive shaft I had clamped in a bench vice. I was hitting it from the top down because I was worried if I hammered it from underneath. The bearing cap would fly off & hit me in the face. My boss was getting frustrated with me because I was taking "too long" (it was rusted stuck) Before I had a chance to say anything. He pulls the hammer out of my hand & says, "Here !! do it like this !!" & starts hitting it hard from underneath. A couple good whacks with the hammer & the bearing cap flies off, POW !!! right into his face. Splits his lip open (I thought he might need stitches) I said, "Umm, I was scared the cap was gonna hit me in the face like that.That's why I wasn't hitting it from underneath."
Same shop.... They learned the hard way, the floor drains in each bay were connected...One guy was changing a fuel filter, a bit of gas from the old filter, dripped on the floor right by the 6 in round drain & went down. The other bay had a big square 60 lb steel plate covering an access hole in the floor & a car in it, up on a lift. After the fuel filter job, same guy pulls a car in, to cut off the old muffler with a torch. Everything is fine for a minute into sparks start falling down by the drain. He knew he had only dripped a little bit gas & not enough to make a big fire, plus it should have been evaporated after a few minutes. What he didn't know was, gas fumes were building up in the drain. All the sudden KAABOOM !!! the 60 lb steel drain cover in the other bay, flies up 6 ft & hits the car on the lift.....Luckily no one was hurt. If someone had been in the other bay, standing on that plate. They would have been seriously injured.
Why I'm typing out some long ass story, I have no idea...
how can people be so brain dead
A great reminder to think during practice.
I have a HARD time believing all of that...
(Hopefully) live & learn (hopefully) lol
@@davelowets I don't. You have to remember he was young and often some bosses are assholes. The gas build up story is absolutely believable and not sure why anyone would lie about it.
One hack that was not mentioned during the trans fluid in the engine oil segment. Turn the bottle in the other direction to pour. It lets air into the bottle and it pours much smoother. This hack is molded into the pour spout of every quart bottle.
Don't use trans fluid! Buy oil stop leak, it's made to mix with oil! Probably the price is similar!
true, this works for all kinds of semi-thick fluids in bottles not just engine oil. we have big metal cans of olive oil and do the same to pour nicely.
I learned this one last week on a transmission swap, works beautifully
That bothered me to watch it done incorrectly as well.
thanks not a hack, thats just people using it incorrectly
i have used youtube and google but i am always so so SOOOOO glad i bought the repair and maintenance manuals for my vehicles. even if some things aren't really very easy to figure out from the terrible pictures and jargon filled instructions, far more often than not it makes things easier, and at least from the number and complexity of the steps you get an idea of how long it will take and if you want to do the job or get help with it
11:00 I used to work for a roadside company, and the advice they gave us when doing tire changes was 2 things: always use the stock spare change tools in spite of issuing all of us hydraulic jacks, and make sure you use the jack points. The reason for these two points is simply liability coverage. Several times I had jack points fail to live up to their purpose(IE damage the car), but because I used the included tools and designated point, the company and my job were safe.
Very good advice thank you
11:51 there's honestly a chance I designed that noise suppressor. They were initially used on passenger car vehicles (tiny turbos) to reduce noise however when it was discovered they also improved efficiency and helped with surging we started using them on commercial applications as well. If you remove the noise suppressor you'll get more noise but you'll also actually loose efficiency as well. That design is "cheap and simple" but the motorsports team made some insane optimized ones that really allow the recirculating airflow to efficiently re enter the main flow stream without causing much turbulence.
TLDR: leave the noise suppressor in if you wanna go fast.
On second pass based on the nut on the compressor wheel I'd say that's not one I did. Looks like it may be an MHI turbo although on larger turbos I'm used to seeing them use copper nuts.
I was looking for a comment jusssttt like this 👌
Oh, no worry, that guy painted his intercooler white to make up for the loss in efficiency. (:
I’ve seen the same video over and over and no believe it does enough to keep it in over noise. If you don’t care too much abt efficiency then sure take it out. Let it scream! But if power and fuel economy are your main concern then leave it in. Your best bet is to just delete your emission for better fuel economy and power
@@Donniec685 Wrong. Modern engines work better (more power, better fuel economy) WITH the EGR hooked up.
As a scientist, I can tell you: the coffee filter stand-in for emergency lint-free wipes is 100% true. I've used them myself. Wouldn't use them for anything delicate like cleaning optics, but for most purposes they will do in a pinch.
And they also serve as a good stand-in for doing titration resultant collections.Not perfect, but damn good.
Yah but why not use the real thing, actual microfibre cloths?? 🤔
Same, I’ve used them as KimWipe alternatives many times.
I'm pretty sure most scientists use coffee filters for brewing coffee because in the movies they are always spending weeks straight in the lab trying to find a way to stop humanity from going extinct.
Obviously all my knowledge comes from movies and television. Obviously.
@@mikedrop4421 Yeah, that checks out.
First time replacing my drive shaft this happened to me, car was on a hill and would have crashed into my other car, thankfully my jack was right underneath the car and the tire hit it and stopped. Learned a very valuable lesson. And felt like an idiot for not realizing that was going to happen.
An older man from my workplace retired, and in his first week of retirement set out to restore an old car and killed himself this way.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 wow that sucks!
Username checks out.
As someone who fiddles with first surface mirrors, lenses, and optics for lasers, telescopes, and microscopes, the coffee filter as a low lint/lint free wipes is 100% true! I tried so many other wipe alternatives, including making an updraft hood, and a filtered cross flow hood to keep stuff off of optics I was cleaning to avoid buying kemwipes all the time, cheap basic no frills coffee filters absolutely work for cleaning surfaces without leaving fuzzies. HOWEVER, you can still scratch mirror finishes or optical coatings, so be careful (if you're doing optics stuff, that is. I imagine steel cylinder walls are a bit more resilient that a few atoms of optical coating).
you should never wipe glass with paper.
@@fransmith8992lol the best thing to cleaning glasses here is a newspaper but never dry.
Note about the nut on the tie rod: You have a much lower chance of damaging threads and making it difficult to remove by hitting the knuckle instead. No, really. 2-3 hard hits and it pops right off.
That's what I was going to say. Smack what the part goes through.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned this, Its how I've always done it
Yeah I've always smacked the actual knuckle too. Threading the bolt on the tie rod is good to protect the threads in case you miss 😆
2-3 hard hits lulz. I wish. I must have bad luck because every car I've had to do that on bout wore me out swinging my BFH at it.
That’s how I was taught to do them and still do 👍
10:48
The guy responded to his video due to all the blowback he received. He had the correct jack point, but he was using two hockey pucks to make contact between the jack and the car. As you can see, his garage has a crack in the floor, so his jack wasn't moving as the car was being lifted, causing the pucks to shift. Before he could catch it, disaster struck (pucks slipped off, car connected with the jack OFF the jack point, and voila).
He should have placed it correctly and purchased slotted extenders. Or, he could have used *ONE* puc and slotted it with... ... any number of ways.
Not that he needed them: that jack had plenty of lift left and why was he lifting the car, on the side, for any other purpose than to change a tire? Was he hoping the stiffness would raise the other side?
He cannot put a jack stand where the jack, he was using, should be.
@@LilRedDog not sure if its the same case here but I've worked on a couple of my buddies cars that are too low to the ground to get a jack under it so you put the back end up on ramps and now you cam fit a jack under the side but not the front
You said “Jack off”
@@hankhasemeier6887 I can see that happening.
If that were true here, why in the world did he add two, slippery, spacers?
And he should have had the wheels pointed in the direction the jack would need to go.
Look at the jack wheels:
The ONLY way the jack has to go is sideways.
@@LilRedDog I can't explain using two pucks. That just seems stupid to me. Just trying to explain why he would be jacking it from the side
Been turning wrenches for 😭😭 52 years, you guys were totally, absolutely, beyond a doubt, keeeeerect on all the tictoc assessments.
The pile of pucks when jacking, and wheel chock advisements were my favorites, now I know what look I had on my face those many years ago.
This format of video actually works well in this genre. You guys are the pioneers of a tried and true formula. Good Shiiii!
Funny thing about a battery powered ratcheting wrench is that it still works like a non powered without the battery. He could've broke it loose manually instead of "neutral drop"
thats what i was thinking lol
Ik lol the one I have anyway.
i dont have a battery powered ratcheting wrench :(
Nah man, neutral drop daily.
@@lukes.9574 Well, get one. 😂
The amount of people on tiktok trying to educate people on things they don't know is exactly mechanics won't be going anywhere any time soon
My dad used to be a farmer and he worked on all of his own equipment and I was brought up with this fundamental dislike of engineers and their inability to foresee real world application, problems and solutions… Engineers!?! I feel you on that one
farmers are some of the best mechanics , because they had to fix broken machinery out in the fields!
@@fransmith8992 it’s true …problem solvers extraordinaire. Physics, geometry, algebra and chemistry
Also, electrical, construction, plumbing, meteorology, psychiatry, first aid, love, toughness, survival skills…. You know, life😄 farmers for Nobel prize!! My dad is awesome ..just sayin.
@@Bernie_tube 🙂
And as a man of his word, he ditched his tractor and went back to pulling his plow with a horse?
@@gooby1648 he actually sold out of farming and ended up as a department head in the Battelle laboratory organization… based primarily on his ability to streamline applications and maximize efficiency in the mechanical processes of their labs. I still stand in awe of my
…Mc/dad/Gyver and his brain power
The coffee filter thing is pretty neat, would have to see the oil filter after running it, lint from regular and heavy duty paper towels will actually clog an oil pickup tube and filter, you may not even see the lint when assembling the engine.
Coffee filter is totally legit. They're used in PC builds and with some painting to apply solvents or other chemicals/compounds without risk of leaving behind lint or fibrous residue.
100% true clean them up good and worry about anything left behind
There's a big difference trying to save money working on your own stuff and trying to save money and being comfortable cutting some corners, and charging professional prices for the best you can offer. This makes all the difference on some of these.
I Agree
I'm not a mechanic, I'm an engineer, I.T. and Telecommunications
so sometimes my clients will want to install their own TV Antenna's
sometimes they try to put their own TV on their wall
Now let's address those 2 shall we without going into any further stupidity
I get that they are trying to save money and AS LONG AS YOU DON'T FUCK ANYTHING UP... Good for you, go for it,
i have no problem with it because i didn't have to come out to fix it
HOWEVER....
Putting up your own TV Antenna can cause you to fall off your own roof and kill yourself
(there is a reason we are called professionals, there is a reason we have training)
Putting up your own TV on a wall (my fucking god , can this one end up bad or what ?)
well, first there is
- Not knowing what measurements to take
- then you fuck it up, so you end up with like 15 holes in your wall
- then you have to figure out how to patch them up LMFAO
- Now if you finally get the tv put on the wall, Most times you won't bother with studs,
if that happens and your tv is big enough you may literally rip the gyprock off your wall and your tv will end up broken on the floor, PLUS YOU HAVE A MIN. $5,000 REPAIR TO DEAL WITH (instead of paying someone $300 or so ) to do it properly
- Then you have metal studs
- You may have a stud finder and it beeps and you figured YES!!! THAT'S A STUD
but instead..... NO!!!!! IT'S A FUCKING POWER CABLE
you drill in the wall confident as shit and you may actually kill yourself
or....
You don't die, but you take out your electrical circuit and now you need to paid an electrician $600 to fix what you thought was a quick job
NOW.. ASSUMING YOU DON'T FUCK UP ANYTHING AND YOU DIDN'T KILL YOURSELF which is a small chance first off
you need to also understand
- In your own home, you don't give a fuck as long as you saved money
- As a professional however, Tradesman need to consider, Insurance, Efficiency , speed of the job, Time is Money etc etc
Safety , will this next roof that i step on cave in on me and will i die
so when you paid a tradesman you pay for a lot
there's experience, there's knowledge , there's insurance, there's Piece of Mind ,
a lot goes into it
so ... Try it yourself, for sure, BUT MAKE DAMN SURE YOU DON'T FUCK YOURSELF IN THE PROCESS
Its good to have professional opinions on many of the things you see or hear online on car fixes. You never know what you doing gonna fix or harm your car more. I've been friend with a few old school mechanics and many tines i had an earfull when i was about ti do something stupid but in the end, my 25 yrs old car still run like almost brand new. Love that old car even i have newer one as i stick with me thru thick and thin. Never been stranded roadside.
Using "old school" method is often only trustworthy on older vehicles OR if they're still working on new ones and have current experience to go with the old. I have a relative with tons of experience on cars up to the 80s/90s, but he has broken a few things on newer cars using the old ways. And even some older cars may be unusual, so always do the research. For example, he wanted to use a C-clamp to compress the rear brake caliper cylinder on a 90s Miata. Nope.
@@espokane hi there. Correct sir and agree with you. Once a friend of mine disconnected a newer vehicle's throttle body for cleaning but did as how he been doing for an older vehicle. Cleaned and moved the internal parts by hand. He later had to replace that throttle body. So knowing how to fix 80s and 90s vehicle doesn't mean all can be applied to newer ones. Some of the basic like wheel, brakes, light bulb/LED, coolant, lubs and fluid may remain the same but many part have changed and you do need to do research and have knowledge before tackling the newer vehicles. Thanks for the info and reminder. Cheers
Another way to pop tie rods is by hitting the knuckle/spindle. Where the threads sit in, that area is generally very tough and you can smack tf out of it w out damaging anything. Im a Nissan technician and i use this daily for anyone wondering. (If you miss and hit the threads, its curtains for the tie rod though lmao)
The first one definitely needs to be done with a brake pad, to make sure you push the piston in evenly, and don't damage the points of contact for the new pads.
The neutral drop hack where they're taking the seat out, um... why? Just break it loose, then hit your trigger.
The box end wrench wire loom hack? You bet I'm adopting that one.
Firs the brakes my father always used this piece of wood (It was a name place, treated wood, they made a typo on), and a simple C clamp. Worked like a charm, ensured even pressure
@@Ange1ofD4rkness yeah, that works too. Really just about even pressure and using something that won't mess up the surface, so wood, being softer than metal, is perfect too.
I'm guessing theyre using it like a mini impact drill. The smack from the socket suddenly catching crack it loose. Still, not a great idea.
@@colbyscott9822 exactly. It's just laziness. Takes a few seconds to switch to a beefier ratchet, break the bolt loose, then switch back to your electric or air ratchet and back it out quickly.
Yeah, even just keeping that hammer against the piston and using 2 wrenches (one on each side of the wood handle) would have been a better idea
2:39 could work, but honestly I just index the bolt and mating surface so I know how many degrees I've turned it. Showing that you've turned a bolt/nut 45, 90 or 180 degrees doesn't require a $500 wrench.
Good tip. My cheap Tengtools torque wrench has an angle gauge on the head I think it was about $180
Same, you never need to overturn by 17.9 degrees or something, it's always nice angles like 45,90,...
An angle adapter is only like $20 and won't slide off the wrench. I wouldn't use it for racing or aviation were precision is needed, but it works just fine for the average rebuild.
and it doesn't need to be perfect...there are tolerances. 5 degrees either way won't make any difference, and you can eyeball to that precision.
You can rent a Torque Wrench.
So I’m a public transportation mechanic in San Diego county, I can say with great certainty that many of these hacks have been used by mysef and others in my field, we used coffee filters on many rebuilds to clean up some carbon that was left behind and on transmission for removing clutch materials. The belt and boxes end pulley holder is 50/50 as some of our pulleys are held on with more torque so we can’t do that but it does work on automotive for sure!
I have seen the soap in the coolant reservoir hack performed before, not to clean the reservoir but to clean the cooling system after the oil cooler leaked and allowed oil and coolant to mix. You use liquid detergent ( I believe the tech used Wisk ) and you only put 1/4 cup in and then you have to flush with just water several times to get everything out of the system.
Dawn works sort-of-okay, better than the other dish soaps I've seen tried, but the purple degreaser stuff is better in my experience. The heater core is often overlooked, and it doesn't respond as well to the detergents because the flow through it is not all that fast, so I like to give it a direct flush with a siphon gun if there's a way to access the hoses easily. Otherwise, it may come back gummed up with emulsified oil sludge. No matter what else you do, flush it enough to get all of the detergent out or you're asking for foaming to cause cooling problems.
Real mechanic stuff
Thanks mechanics, my car is playing knock knock whos there with me, pretty fun lately.
@@bageltondinglequandaleseba6928 Right, I’ll send someone over to pick it up and inspect it, what make and model of car is it and what is the address of its current location?
The jackpoints are easy to figure out, the cars i had (VW, Citroën, Volvo) had markers on the chassis, like little triangles, or a small flange that did fit in a slot in the lifting pad. That last one was pretty clever, because that also prevents the jack from slipping out.
Best jack points I've ever seen, as long as they're not rotten, is the ones on a Porsche 914. You take a plug off, slide a bar into the car, and the jack doesn't even go underneath. Hard to mess that up lol.
On VW it’s basically impossible to get it wrong. My dad got me to replace tires as a kid and I never got it wrong. When you put the top of the jack in the correct spot it basically can’t move in any direction
It looks like he was on the jack point but double stacked hockey pucks and the top one slid out.
The real issue is that the jack was not rolling forward because the floor is so pitted. As it was lifting up the puck was sliding outwards under the car instead of staying with the car as it was lifted. Had the floor not been so pitted, and the jack was able to roll to stay under the jack point, then this may have been prevented.
@@boostaddict_ My mates old 93 w124 mercedes has that system but we both hate it lol. Takes ages to jack up a single wheel and the jack that came with the car is almost falling apart by now even though the car is almost immaculately taken care of. Still have to use it though because it's lowered and we can't fit a normal jack underneath it
Coffee filters make excellent lint free towels. I've always used then to clean my car windshield and they don't leave a speck of lint behind. They also make great phone cleaners and they're great for quickly cleaning off optical sensors. Any time my bill validator quits working well at work, a quick wipe with a filter cleans it.
Thanks these are good ideaa
I love it when the mechanics are honest and give a answer explaining what's wrong even if I don't know what they're talking about
As someone who knows very little about car maintenance, I've never been more convinced (I was already up there but anyway) that I should leave all of the whatever to the professionals.
I'm sometimes proud of the things I know or the things I can do in life. Whenever I feel like my head is getting a little too big, I lift the hood of my car, look inside, and remind myself that I don't know anything.
@5:59 - This is always a good sign when someone is purporting, in even the most remote sense, to be an auto repair professional:
Pouring with the quart bottle's offset spout toward the ground. Almost as if exhibiting an unthinking, contrarian spite, in extreme overkill to any possible feelings elicited by the innocent little diagram, stamped into the neck of the very bottle he's pouring from, between his hand and the opening. Spout toward the *top* while pouring; not toward the bottom (like we all seem to default to, before we learn better).
He can be forgiven for a bad pour, while holding a phone... But he just spills immediately, thanks to disregarding the diagram. When you hold it spout-down, you can't pour it fast enough to keep it from dribbling down the side of the bottle, while also pouring _slow_ enough to keep incoming air pockets from disrupting the fluid flow - giving you the uncontrollable "glug glug glug" we all know from rinsing out a milk jug, or other large plastic bottle. Rather than cleanly pouring, or having rags or a funnel - any of which would telegraph a modicum of experience - there's nothing to keep it from dribbling down onto, you know, _a wide selection of important rubber parts that petroleum-based oils/fluids/greases will cause to soften and disintegrate._
The only thing that would make sense, after that total biff, is an exasperated narrator exclaiming "there's gotta be a better way!"
Coffee filter as a wipe seems like a fantastic idea, they are clean and protected for shipping.
The angle on torqueing bolts is not great, but is using a 30 year old torque wrench that has never been calibrated any better?
I use coffee filters to clean mating surfaces and cylinder walls, works fantastic. Little bit of ATF and filter is all you need.
I had a craftsman microtork torque wrench that was about 15 years old and had been set to 90 ft-lb for about 10 years. I thought it would definitely be wrong so I bought one of the digital ones that is attached like a socket extension. Surprisingly, the torque wrench was still perfect all across the torque range. And even though I hadn't used it in 10 years, I used it a LOT the first 10 years I had it.
The correct tool is a Torque Angle Gauge. It doesn't matter how worn the torque wrench is: the dial goes between the socket and the wrench. Provided you know what you are doing, it would work fine. BTW: most guys never seem to understand that if you zero a torque wrench EVERY TIME you are done using it, the likelihood of stretching the spring and changing the calibration is almost nullified. NOTHING is worse than finding someone left your torque wrench set on 120 ft-lbs when you have to torque a bolt at 65! Very, VERY frustrating!
@@Av8orDave I like your story but I'm confused about the maths 🤣 how can you use it for 10 years, then barely use it for another 10 years, and then after all the wrench is only 15 years old? 🤔
There's a reason why filtered coffee has less cholesterol than other types of coffee! Coffee filters have great absorbent powers.
Hint to the guy pouring atf into the oil fill..turn the bottle 180 and put the pour spout on the high side so you don't dump half your fluid down the side of the bottle. The container will be closer to horizontal before the fluid comes out. Thats why ALL containers are made this way.
10:30 I’ve added every extension we had once to get the bolts off my sister’s transmission so we could take the engine out. It was like 15 extensions that made it 3-4 feet long. My dad and his friend didn’t think it would work but it totally did and they were so surprised when the bolt broke loose. 😂
Quality tools, so the amount of slack in the system was minimal, and nothing distorted.
@@maltinamaltina2665 no there was mad slack and it was all harbor freight ratchets lol. That’s why we were so surprised. We totally thought it was gonna break something.
The "neutral drop" works great. Honda 3.5 timing belt jobs, removing the 10mm bolts on the covers with a battery ratchet. Do about 3 of them a week and after learning this a year or so ago saves a ton of time and knuckles lol
Please.. stop. I am tired of replacing all the hardware geniuses like yourself scortch
Hello does anyone here believe in Jesus?
I find this all funny as I am a seasoned diesel tech, Id love see one of these for the heavy duty side of things. Not pickups but commercial trucks. I've seen a lot of funky or off the wall repairs that have been made previously by either drivers or other mechanics.
Same here. One that comes to mind is slowly pouring water into the intake of a running engine to clean the valves 😂
This was a fun video to watch with my husband, whose a mechanic of 25+ years. We'd love to see more like this.
A note on the nut-over-the-threaded-end thing that I'm surprised nobody mentioned (maybe they did but it was edited out) is if you're reinstalling the same tie rod end, often those nuts are castle nuts - flip them upsidedown so that you beat on the smooth surface, and the castled section is not damaged by the hammer. Screw them on flush with the end then back them off a quarter or half turn so that there's no contact between the hammer and rod end, but you have as many threads grabbed as possible to minimize the strain on each thread surface.
Much easier to go to your local autoparts store and get the kit to do it. I know at autozone and oriellys its free
Most mechanics have a tie rod separator.
When you remove a tie-rod end, you loosen the nut then strike the CAST outer part, not the end of the threads. The shock onto the spindle shocks the tie-rod out of the taper. There is NEVER any need to strike the threaded end or nut.
" rod end " that would be called threading or stud. 🙄
The pickle fork WILL tear up the rubber seal EVERY time. I try flipping the nut first, and hammer it gently without ruining it. It's either for SURR destroy the grease seal, or possibly bung up the threads. Either way, your screwed. Sometimes beating on the upside down but WORKS, and you wont tear up the seal. You have nothing to lose, and everything to gain, if you can get it off by the nut method. Just know when to call it quits before you bung the threads up.
The dish washing tablet to clean cooling system is actually how I was taught to clean oil from your cooling system. Example, oil cooler cracks and fills system with oil, a non foaming detergent is the best way to remove the oil aka dishwashing powder/tablet.
That header tank though is BS. It was new
I’ve heard of using Cascade to clean oil out of a radiator after an oil cooler failure. Old timers at a heavy truck shop told me about it.
yep soap meant for dishwashers work better than regular dish soap because it doesn't foam as much
My dad (ASE certified) always used Mr. Clean. I never tried a concentrated dish soap, btw.
06:00 I love how the sign on the container specifically shows you how to pour the fluid out and yet this guy does it all wrong. Definitely makes me want to take his advice!
That first hack works great with the brakes...I just always put the old pad on the piston side to protect it.👍
Yeah, me too. That and me rubber mallet--and we're gooood!
It might be different for german cars but on some of the VWs and Opels I've worked on you had to "thread" that piston back in. Only pushing on it wouldn't work, you'd need rotation as well. We got crafty a few times, pushing the piston in with a big pipe wrench and turning it with a smaller one.
I got one of those piston reset toolkits for 30 bucks now and don't mess around anymore.
I love how they both said "it's a BMW. Who cares" earned my thumbs up with that statement alone.
Forged in Truth then 🤣
Why do BMWs get so much hate 🤣 is it cause only dentists drive them
@@Life_of_Matthew They're 90% plastic with expensive proprietary parts.
@@Life_of_Matthew Because they're held together by prayer and tape. Built like dog shit. I say all of this as a driver of an old bimmer 🤣😂
@@Life_of_Matthew Because they're expensive RC cars now with a subscription model. If you didn't think a car brand could get to Blizzard/Activision levels of scum, there you have it.
Dishwasher detergent in coolant reservoir, yes actually. Done that when you get oil in the coolant and have to flush the system out. Just don't leave it in there. Need something that doesn't foam and can cut through oil and grease. Dishwasher detergent by design doesn't lather or foam up. Now, it doesn't clean as well as the video lied about, but yes. I've put detergent in cooling systems before. 15 year diesel mechanic
@@FinalBossMusic depends on how big the coolant system is. We put a couple cups in with a gallon of hot water for a 12 gallon cooling system on trucks. A dishwasher pod is good for the couple gallons in a dishwasher. Tide pod is different.
I use dawn, but was surprised when they all said no I thought more people knew about that.
@@tblosser8921 I use the powder soap. Anything that foams or bubbles may cavitate in the engine and cause hot spots. That and the water pump causing turbulence will form bubbles too.
I've seen someone before do this when they blew the head gasket on a truck they were rescuing and driving home. I'd never heard of having to clean the oil residue out of the coolant system. I'm sure it makes it cool more efficiently, but I've never done this on any vehicles I've done head gasket jobs on and I've never had a bit of trouble with overheating. I think the vid I saw was possibly Vice Grip Garage (sorry if it wasn't you), and I think he did use dish soap to clean the system. They dumped the sudsy/oily water, did a straight water rinse and dump, and filled it back up with coolant and hit the road after all the repairs... Seemed to work OK.
Will say using dishwasher detergent makes a LOT more sense due to the non-lathering but still grease cutting qualities.
@@mdemers767 I'm usually doing this on diesels that have the oil cooler fail. That's more typical than a head gasket. It gets a LOT of oil in the system sometimes takes several rounds of soap and water to get it clean. Flush with water a couple times to get all the caustic soap out and then change the coolant reservoir.
The coolant reservoir one, if you look at the bolt/screw that's holding it in, you can see that the grooves where the head of the Phillips head goes in changes. Dirty one, one of the grooves looks like it could line up with the edge of the tank, but the "clean (new)" one, one of the lines would diagonally go across it.
Also, the hose clamp on the larger hose is in a different spot.
@@61rampy65 Good observation. Of course, this is ignoring the obvious fact that the outside goes from dirty to miraculously clean. Like, how is the inside supposed to clean the outside like that? Not only that, but only clean the tank and nothing else?
What's even worse is that there are people who will believe it despite how obviously fake it is.
In the final clip, the 90* ramp cover over the ported housing is actually detrimental to performance. The sound would be slightly louder. But the function of a ported compressor cover is to minimize surging of the turbo which is caused by a choke in flow from the compressor cover. Ported cover alleviates this issue. Resulting in a flow increase of about ~5% depending on application.
Don’t think the experts had a clue.
@@Rajivc666 yeah no doubt, people always wanna act like they know without actually knowing lol
Hello does anyone here believe in Jesus?
I love watching old mechanics on TH-cam. They have all the tricks and can save thousands on specialist tools that you might use once.
We definitely need more of this. I am a mechanic of 38 years and I love these
Yeah this was actually fun lol
😫
The extension trick is definitely one that everyone has used at some point. I was just doing some work with a car, that the bolts and screws (two of each) were on the firewall, about 8" deep behind supporting metal. There was room to get my hand, or a wrench, kinda, but not both. To get to the screws, and to be able to put a rachet on them, I had a u-joint, and a couple sloppy loose extensions on. Not wobble extension, they were just really worn. And to see what I was doing, I was using an endoscope.
The jack drop was horrible. I'm always worried that will happen. As such, I do extra checks constantly, just to make sure I'm both on the right spot, and that the jack hasn't moved while I was starting to lift it. There is no harm in rechecking it. There IS harm in it slipping, bending body metal and the door frame. Poor guy. Hopefully that was a learning experience for him. I hope the body shop is gentle, but I doubt that will be cheap.
That belt and wrench is basically an improvised strap wrench. At least I think that's what they're called we always had a few of them growing up since we had a pool and they work really well on different pvc fittings and especially oil filters but we always called them bob villa tools, who I assume had a commercial or something for them that my dad saw.
You're exactly correct!! I'm a retired Industrial Multi-Craft tech and my best strap-wrench over anything out there, is made by RIGID. It uses a heavy-duty canvas material for the strap. The wetter and/or more oil saturated it gets, the better it grips. The camming/tightening action of the handle is superb!! There's nothing that I've found and tried out there for removing oil filters to turning large motor shafts without damaging them, that comes even close to this strap wrench.
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT I have a thick leather strap wrench that I've had for years. It's always there when i need it. As a plus, the older I got, the larger the working diameter got. Yep, if all else fails, the belt comes off and I hope that I can get whatever the issue is loosened before my pants fall completely down.
As a mechanic trained by my dad, I miss my Volvo 240 brick. They designed that car to be a joy to work on. Wheel bearings, ac compressor, engine mounts, practically everything on that car can be worked on without removing much else.
What year was your Volvo??
Right up until it's time to replace the climate control fan and motor....
I did a bunch of work on a 1991 240 wagon recently. The hardest part was getting IN the car, I thought Swedes were supposed to be tall but apparently they designed it for people with legs that are only 2 feet long.
@@300DBenz true, I'm 6' and 280 and sometimes struggle getting into mine. That's why they all have broken door pockets haha! However in their defence, the basic design for the 240 goes all the way back to the mid-1960s (from the firewall back, the car is basically a 144 /145) and I guess people were smaller back then.
@@johnsmith6256 agreed, the joke being that Volvo started out with the blower motor and built the rest of the car around it. Not funny to anyone who has ever had to change one out. Its a dash-out, whole-weekend job. Still great cars though. Everything else is so easy to work on, loads of room in the engine bay yo get to everything. (Owner of a blue 1982 244DL here in the UK.)
To be fair, somehow a firestone mechanic switched some wires in my car- It caused an engine light on. And about two thousand or more dollars in trying to fix it. And going to about 4 different places to fix it. The only mechanic I use now is in the middle of nowhere, but they’re honest and they get worked done fast
Those small shops in the middle of nowhere are often the best ones. The only mechanic I ever go to if I can possibly help it is a tiny little shop next to the railroad tracks in a town with 7,000 people in it. I have actually walked in the door in the middle of them telling a customer that yes, they can absolutely replace his transmission if he really wants them to, but the one he has is perfectly fine.
Middle of nowhere guys can't risk being shitheads lol. Word gets around that they're a ripoff, and their paycheck dries up. If they were in a big city, there would always be another sucker.
Two things for that emblem hack. One, new emblems are supposed to come with small silicone sleeves on the prongs- makes it hold better. There are none on that. Two, just wrap a small prybar in painters tape, or use a plastic bar, and it'll pop right off. No damage, easy as pie.
5:55 I typically put in about a half quart of atf a day or two before before an oil change to help clean any residual build-up in the oil pan. Something my great grandad taught me.
Your grandad sounds pretty great, mate.
And then hope your oil filter traps it.
@@Slicerwizard that's why it exists.
Doesn’t filter stuff before it goes through the oil pump though or prevent stuff from clogging the pickup
@@tl5108 hydraulic oil will clean the pickup screen by softening deposits...however modern detergent oil does all of that anyway from day one. Adding stuff isn't really needed unless you find a motor with no oil changes in 40k miles.
Back pre 1955 many cars had no filter, just a pump screen you had to drop the pan to clean. Oil waa oil...non detergent. It was intended to clump to gather metal debris and dirt. You oil changed every 3000 mi to get rid of the dirt trapped in the clumpy oil.
That's where we get the change your oil every 3k myth...it was at one time good practice in a nation with a surplus of oil. However that was 80 years ago.
The angle gauge with your phone seems pretty legit. Its the same tech that torque wrenches with built in angle finder use as well. I do agree if your engine builder showed you that, I would want my money back because if they skimp out on buying a good torque wrench/angle gauge, what else did they cheap out on. But if its like, 10pm and this thing has to be running at 7am and you don't have an angle gauge, I see no problem with it.
You'd be better off using a protractor
Most specs are 45 or 90 degrees. Just use a sharpie to put a mark on the bolt and use that to indicate. If you make it 92 or 86 degrees instead of 90, that 'close enough'.
The problem is that sometimes the phone measure may not be accurate enough
@@Seb-Storm the newer iphones angle sensor is accurate enough for this job the hack is true
@@user-hq9tr9sg9s i see. That's what I'm saying is that as long as the phone has a good sensor to properly detect angle then it would be ok
the power steering thing has to do with a valve that regulates which direction the rack will move the steering. in this instance the valve is malfunctioning and basically toggle between turning left and right at a high rate of speed.
the transfer tubes were on backwards i have seen it
@@coryament i have seen this problem first hand but it was like 155 years ago or something.
@@coryament yeah thats possible i guess i don't know how all new rack & pinion line fittings are these days. but on older models definitely pre 2000 the fittings for high pressure and low pressure lines were different sizes so such a mistake could not be made. at least on all american and imports i replaced racks on...
@@hellshade2 I'm talking about the small transfer tubes that go to the rack from the control valve not the main pressure and return hoses from the pump. Some cars it is easy to remove them to make more room for the rack to come out.
@@coryament ahh, okay. never did that myself but i retired in 2008 and i imagine some of these cars have gotten tighter to work on in areas. engineers never seem to realize that parts eventually wear out and might need to be replaced
9:44 i used to work as a shop hand in a dealership service shop and i helped an older mechanic unbolt and bolt up several transmissions on trucks. Easiest way to unbolt the top of the transmission from the engine was for him to stick 4-5 extensions together and i would hold the socket on the bolt while he stood 3 feet away at the BACK of the transmission to use the impact.
You don't always have access to the ends of the wires when you want to put a loom on them, try using a line wrench, that should get you around the problem.
I got my experience in the 70s , used many of these hacks , but question if they work on modern cars. We did put transmission fluid in a engine, but the purpose was to clean internals, if seals were leaking then half the time they leaked worse after , the high detergent fluid cleaned dirt out that was plugging leaks . But if it was a choice of trying this or rebuild then give it a try . We used add a quart 50 miles before the oil change and drive easy and a lot of times after 5 or 10 thousand miles it really quieted down noisy lifters . I think now days just using synthetic oil would do the same
I did put laundry detergent in the rad , but you need to flush out all the antifreeze first . The reason is that the antifreeze neutralized the soap so it didn't work . Don't know if I would do it to a modern high tech engine
I can only imagine how you used to flush the antifreeze out of the radiator and "dispose" of it back then, but I'm sure that EPA wouldn't be happy.
@@xsterawesome yea , and used oil , batteries , tires , almost everything. You can still go to old farm yards that have been abandoned 80 years and see the dark stain where the front door of the shop was . Everyone spread old oil on the road to hold down dust . Batteries got tossed in the ravine that filled the dugout for household water supply . Antifreeze got used to soak wood to preserve it
@@outinthesticks1035 I never heard of using antifreeze to treat wood, considering how toxic most wood treatments are I could not imagine antifreeze being much worse.
The funny part is a random 90 year old man will complain about more people having cancer, down syndrome, bipolar disorders, allergies, etc.
When they spent the majority of their life blowing lead dust out of tail pipe all over the country and use toxic chemicals for everything.
@@xsterawesome funny you mention that . I just watched a video the said they knew the danger of lead in gas 100 years , but never looked into alternatives . I've had a lot of friends with cancer and there seem to be two trends . Either they were young farmers when herbicide first came out , or they eat a lot of fast food and restaurant meals . There's a Lot of stuff I think they will find that is more dangerous than we think
If your front or rear seal leak then these hack are really designed to get you by until they get fixed. Maybe a few days. But they will leak even worse once the additive is consumed.
That's definitely a new reservoir. It's literally so obvious (no stock resivoir is that clean) 😂
You’re right, it turns yellow from the heat.
Plus the ears the reservoir connects with were white afterwards too, as if the soap cleaned the outside of the reservoir too... Lol.
8:11 Just get some prying tool (or wrap a soft cloth on a regular screwdriver), get it going and then get in a flattened straw and just pull it up. No damage.
The one that used the compass to torque the caps holds some truth! I’ve used a similar method multiple times to clock turbos and it works like a charm every time!
actually the degree torque method is commonly used today combined with a torque wrench method, they have you torque the bolt to a specified torque (ie:90flb) then turn the bolt an additional 90deg. BUT using a phone like was used in that video was so inaccurate it's not funny. Watch the video and you will see the wrench moving while the phone doesn't move for the first movement of the wrench, that's a couple of degrees not registered on the phone compass which will throw the measurement off that much. inaccurate.
To any trained seasoned mechanic this is laughable the way they showed it. The concept is sound though.
@@swoopulater they had the right idea, just didn’t put it into practice correctly 😂😂
UH. I would never use a phone for that. A smart person would print a 360 degree gauge on paper and use that. Or if it's 60 degrees it's easy, just one flat side of a 6 point nut/bolt. Also can just go rent or buy the right tool too. Probably the safest idea like the mechanic said bolts like that usually hold very important parts together so I know I wouldn't wanna "Hack" my way through an engine or gearbox rebuild.
i love the way you guys shot this episode. Honestly such a great way to get multiple opinions!
On the Audi.... Im not sure id use the POD, but 10/10 would and have run dishwasher soap. It works awesome when the cooler fails pumping oil into the coolant. You gotta get it out, but it works.
HAHA Hey that next one is me THANKS YALL!!!
Im glad the prop shaft guy lived!!! BE SAFE!
Some of the things Ive seen on TT are SCARY AF! Be safe out there everyone!
also they say "If it works, it aint stupid" BUT it can be both. LOL Also shoutout to Ms A!
3:48
Not a problem, I've done this many many times on trucks where the oil cooler seals fail, and it fills the coolant with engine oil.
Swapping the cooler seals, filling it back up with straight water and dishwasher detergent and running it like that for an hour or so, drain and repeat once or twice.
Then fill it back up with coolant, works a treat.
the ones that were good ideas looked very common sense stuff to keep in the idea tool chest. the belt on a wrench is basically like the Craftsman Strap Wrench that was sold ages ago. Hell I used a chain wrench once to pull up on the auto tensioner once in a truck so I could get the belt back on after doing a water pump replacement.
some of those belt tensioners were hard to move far enough thats for sure...
Love when they bring people in like these mechanics... I feel like they should give them all a little plug at the end tho right????
Yes
I want to know who they are, too!
Angelina is a auto tech at RCC in riverside ca she also taught auto in high school as well she’s really cool
That first suggestion of using the worn brake pad to prevent damaging the piston is something I've always done for years!!
Or a c clamp.
I got one for ya: I bought a 1996 BMW 318Ti drove it 6 years and had 330,000 miles. I never once performed a full oil change on it ever. I would add a half quart to a quart every month and a half or so. And used the cheapest Warren 10W30 motor oil I could find. It was still running when I sold it. Only issue that car ever gave me was a fuel pump relay and I grabbed one out of a junk yard.
The jack point one could've been solved if he had used his ramps as intended, too.
"Let me put a pair of pucks on my jack, and then jack my car up when it is on an uneven surface- what could go wrong?"
@@DR-pu5hm Like I said, if he'd have used the ramps properly, this could've been avoided entirely.
@@tallonmetroids271 what if the wheel needs to be removed?
@@NovaRexus64 you don't need the rear wheels off the ground to change a front wheel, and vice versa
@@tallonmetroids271 purely depends on what's being done
A moment to praise Justin for blending into the team’s vibes!! Good job !!!
Maybe Justin is a part of the team because he naturally has that vibe.
Bout time lol he was so awkward at first
I'm dubious about putting ATF in my oil on a direct injection engine, primarily due to their sensitivity to soot/carbon buildup.
But doesn’t ATF have detergent in it and that’s why people use it through an engine…to clean it? I’m young and dumb with this industry still so I genuinely don’t feel like I know for sure but I know a mechanic for 27 years who drained all his oil. Put plug in. Added 5 quarts of oil and 1 quart of ATF (6qt capacity) then let it run. Then after 10-15 minutes be drained it, replaced the filter a second time, and then did a normal oil change. It was supposed to clean the engine because of the detergent in the ATF according to him.
Edit: and of course by detergent I don’t mean like shit in the laundry aisle at Walmart I mean it is a detergent. Engine oil and trans fluid have additive packages that do various things. One category of those additives are called detergents. Another, for example, are called pour-point depressants, which help the oil stabilize in changing temperatures. The ATF I heard functions well as a cleaner because of the specifics of the detergent additive, apart from softening seals as the video mentioned
@@Derek_Wyld i would Not put ATF in an engine. Or any oil that is not designed to put in an engine. The additives and oil are Not designed for that environment.
Better use something without (so many) additives to clean the engine. Diesel can be used for example. But dont let it in there. Before an oil change, put some diesel in the oil (~200-500ml for a regular Car engine. dont know how much it is in imperial) let it run for 5-15 minutes and drain it.
And If a seal is leaky, replace it. ATF (or anything else) wont fix it in the long run. And If a customer says "Just a quick and cheap fix, i want to sell that Car anyway", dont do it either. You are helping/supporting a duchebag ripping someone off. And If the engine gets damaged, the customer comes right back to you and demands a new engine because you destroyed it with your cheap "fix"
It’s a old school way to silence hydraulic lifters and flush. I’ve done it hundreds of times
@@toml6092 From that I'm guessing these had either port injection or carbureted fuel systems? DI systems especially when turbocharged (possibly supercharged too, but I haven't seen data) are prone to soot/carbon buildup on the valves and can cause timing and seating problems if not checked and cleaned when needed. This is why I said I'm concerned about the effects the ATF might have in my specific engine type. If you've done it on a DI system that would be good to know.
Loved my 68 z/28... roll cage,fire extinguisher, 2 shocks each wheel,ect...bought for road racing...looked for Mach 1 stangs at night...FUN TIMES.
2:13 Old brake pad and a random clamp is a far better way to do this. Pushes it in flush. That force is exerted at an angle so not the best.
Pad and an old G clamp. New clamps are tinny garbage, borrow one off grandad.
@@KevinHallSurfing Your not wrong but if your breaking a cheap clamp by compressing your caliper you have more serious issues.
@@KevinHallSurfing I just use a F clamp.
@@skurblord3401 Agree. Luckily mine are from my father 1920's/40's or even Navy WWII maybe? (he had a lot of quality stuff, and solid tool steel, but many these days I've seen on Amazon, AliExpress etc etc are cheap crap.
I responded on a medical years ago for a guy that ran himself over disconnecting the drive line without blocking the wheels. He was ok.
That's kinda a Darwin nomination
Ow ;(
That’s a Monty Python sketch, didn’t think I’d hear anyone manage to reannact it.
“There is no water behind the new emblem.”
“…but there will be.”
Just have to say the belt & wrench trick for holding a pulley works fantastic for oil filters too.
Always keep an old belt in my box.
I have legit got ran over by breaking the drive shaft free and it rolled on to my chest drug me 6 feet down the driveway and over me needless to say it was painful
Keep up the great content Donut watching from Australia
It's too bad they gave tiktok any screen time. The ccp are garbage.
Yay, another Donut fan in Australia!
As a previous Lexus GSF owner, I felt Dude’s pain 😖. My wife begged and begged to drive it……she pulls out of driveway……15 minutes later she’s back with the front clip hanging off…..They are great low key track cars BTW
A most excellent commuter, but wouldn't want to take it to the track
About that coolant reservoir: I worked in a shop for quite some time and we had multiple repair requests for blown oil coolers over the time so engine oil was pushed and mixed into the cooling system. Of course you change the oil cooler and engine oil and then try to clean out the cooling system and for what ever reason for most of the time all we had in stock to do that was laundry cleaner which is terrible in cleaning oil. Afterwards we swapped in a new reservoir and filled the system, but as soon as these cars returned for the next service the new coolant reservoir looked just like the old one. At least until one day some clever person on the stock came to the idea to order some proper cooling system cleaner just to show that an old dirty reservoir can look just like the new one if the right chemicals are used. At least for the oil and water toxic grey green chocolat milkshakey thing.
Couldn’t tell much to my dad 😂😂 he’s been a euro tech for about 30 years. If I showed him any of this he’d tell me a better way to get it done 💀
Great guests!
Also: google how to do it right, and google how to do it wrong. Let other ppl make the mistakes so you don't have to
Having owned several late 80's to mid 90's Saabs, I'm all about removing the turbo whistle thing. That sound is half the fun
Basically a cheap t51r mod
I had an 84' Turbo T-Bird and use to love the Turbo sound. I traveled 200 miles a day and put 200K of the 250K on it before I sold it and the turbo still made that sweet music. I changed the oil once a month, but the rest of the car... the electrical system wasn't Ford Quality Job One. Job #52 I think. The temperature sensor switch went out every year. I finally installed a toggle switch (well, my intelligent brother did) to turn my cooling fan off and on.
Been using transmission fluid and brake fluid to soften leaking seals for 50 years , usually works never caused any damage with 4 to 8 ounces.