I really appreciate your views on the heritage and using runes. I’m Slavic decent: north and Eastern European, and some Sami. My wife ties into some big Swedish Viking lines and gives me grief about “cultural appropriation” and how I’m not Swedish, so I don’t have the right to do Viking stuff. Bleah. “Viking” was an occupation. It’s a verb technically to describe what they did: to vike; to travel, explore and forage. Then it came to denote pirates from the Northlands. It’s only in modern times that “Viking “ was construed to mean “Scandinavian”. I really appreciate your view on it. By using the runes and recreating tools, we’re honoring the ancestors and keeping the lore, skills, knowledge and legend alive. Glad I found your channel!! Beautiful work!
What a great job ... really really nice piece of work ... 👍 Please keep forging a lot of viking stuff / tool's ...like maybe : wood carving tool's, chisels, hinges, woman's knife and what have we 😊 many many thanks for showing and please keep up the good work
Ƿes þu hal! Hmmm...my understanding is that your (excellent!) seax is a Brokenback Seax, which is a style associated with the Saxons living in what was to become England. Perhaps your ill fated pumpkin may have been more appropriately called Dane King? 😉 I attempted to forge such a seax a while ago, however, mine was a little too shallow (spine to edge) and developed something of a very slight "sabre" curve after quenching. After seeing yours I am inspired to try again. Well done! Be well.
My understanding is that the broke back Seax was the personal defense weapon carried horizontally hanging on the belt along the back. Hence the blunt side would be on the bottom riding on the sheath.
Superb Seax. This blade has a beautiful soul, the one you gave it. Cheer. Congratulations also for the Runes which recalls its origins and the Nordic mythology. Odin will surely be grateful to you. Congratulations again for the music. You have gained a new subscriber. Kiss from France. Alain
God! I enjoyed watching this video. Forging and wonderful medieval music, it was wonderful. Please write the name of the music that plays at the beginning.
The Age of the Viking, did change. The "Vikings" found out they could make more money as long haul cargo carriers. Since they had the boats and new the ways of the ocean, as much as any one can. From Raiding to Commerce. Also "Vikings" came from Denmark, Norway and Scandinavia. I come from a Scottish Clan that was started by a Dane "Viking". I guess that's why I love axes and hear the cry of battle in the distance now and then. As for your Seax. Well done, Well done. Oh, what wood did you use for the handle?
2 questions: First: do those bench top wheel grinder attachments work ok? I have an old bench grinder and I'm just starting off, and I don't want to spend a pile of money on a big big grinder right now. Second, what are those tongs you have? those look incredible!
Yes the bench grinder is good for some things, Belt grinder for others, and the angle grinder is a must have. You will get used to what to use and when. And the tongs are U-Jaw tongs. I made the flat tongs, but I got others from Blacksmith Depot. Also thank you for watching and taking an interest.
Could you help me out? I plan to forge my own seax but i'am having a hard time finding out about the traditional beveling. My question is does the traditional seax have a straight edge double bevel or a chisel edge? Thanks.
I was told by the antique vendor where I bought it that it is around 20 years old or so. Explained the markings on it for the weight and showed how it was made long before the methods of the industrial times. It is a colonial era anvil but not sure about its path. Probably floated around the Carolinas since it was made.
How thick was the steel that you used? I'm currently in two minds as I have a piece of 1095, but it's only 3.5mm thick (0.138"). I can get 5160 that's 6mm (0.236") thick though, so maybe I should rather go with that?
I used 1/4 inch thick 5160. 1095 is a good blade steel but don't go too thin. Looks lame. Need a hearty blade. A good solid starter weight. 1/4 or 3/16 minimum I suggest.
@@StonegaardForge I've got a piece of 1084, 18" x 2" x 1/4 that I'm going to start on if I ever get over Covid. I'm into my 3rd week now and I just want to get out of the house!
Forgging without a power hammer ? Now that is real blacksmithing,excellent result thank you sir!
Thank you kindly.
I really appreciate your views on the heritage and using runes. I’m Slavic decent: north and Eastern European, and some Sami.
My wife ties into some big Swedish Viking lines and gives me grief about “cultural appropriation” and how I’m not Swedish, so I don’t have the right to do Viking stuff.
Bleah. “Viking” was an occupation. It’s a verb technically to describe what they did: to vike; to travel, explore and forage. Then it came to denote pirates from the Northlands. It’s only in modern times that “Viking “ was construed to mean “Scandinavian”. I really appreciate your view on it. By using the runes and recreating tools, we’re honoring the ancestors and keeping the lore, skills, knowledge and legend alive. Glad I found your channel!! Beautiful work!
I wouldn't worry about "cultural appropriation". Most cultures like when others explore into them. Discover and learn about whatever interests you.
Very nice work, budding blacksmith/ bladesmith here I'm looking forward to achieving this level of craftsman ship
What a great job ... really really nice piece of work ... 👍
Please keep forging a lot of viking stuff / tool's ...like maybe : wood carving tool's, chisels, hinges, woman's knife and what have we 😊
many many thanks for showing and please keep up the good work
Ƿes þu hal!
Hmmm...my understanding is that your (excellent!) seax is a Brokenback Seax, which is a style associated with the Saxons living in what was to become England. Perhaps your ill fated pumpkin may have been more appropriately called Dane King? 😉
I attempted to forge such a seax a while ago, however, mine was a little too shallow (spine to edge) and developed something of a very slight "sabre" curve after quenching. After seeing yours I am inspired to try again. Well done!
Be well.
тоже хочу скрамосакс сделать) а у всс отлично получилось)
I love these Anglo Saxon broken back seaxes
Смотрю из России, благодарю за прекрасный мастер-класс!
My understanding is that the broke back Seax was the personal defense weapon carried horizontally hanging on the belt along the back. Hence the blunt side would be on the bottom riding on the sheath.
Yeah maybe. Certainly possible.
Yep, horizontal, sharp edge up. And it was worn also in front, or on either hip. It all depended on the person wearing it.
Superb Seax. This blade has a beautiful soul, the one you gave it. Cheer. Congratulations also for the Runes which recalls its origins and the Nordic mythology. Odin will surely be grateful to you. Congratulations again for the music. You have gained a new subscriber. Kiss from France. Alain
Beautiful work. 👍🏼
Beautiful!
God! I enjoyed watching this video. Forging and wonderful medieval music, it was wonderful. Please write the name of the music that plays at the beginning.
I'll see if I can find it.
Пожалуйста, не надо тратить на это своё время.😊 И спасибо что ответили 🙏🏻@@StonegaardForge
Hi, nice work! Did you reattach the tang before or after the glue dried?
After. I peened it over the next day.
The Age of the Viking, did change. The "Vikings" found out they could make more money as long haul cargo carriers. Since they had the boats and new the ways of the ocean, as much as any one can. From Raiding to Commerce. Also "Vikings" came from Denmark, Norway and Scandinavia. I come from a Scottish Clan that was started by a Dane "Viking". I guess that's why I love axes and hear the cry of battle in the distance now and then. As for your Seax. Well done, Well done. Oh, what wood did you use for the handle?
I used Oak from a tree in my back forest. Thank you for your kind comments.
2 questions: First: do those bench top wheel grinder attachments work ok? I have an old bench grinder and I'm just starting off, and I don't want to spend a pile of money on a big big grinder right now. Second, what are those tongs you have? those look incredible!
Yes the bench grinder is good for some things, Belt grinder for others, and the angle grinder is a must have. You will get used to what to use and when. And the tongs are U-Jaw tongs. I made the flat tongs, but I got others from Blacksmith Depot. Also thank you for watching and taking an interest.
looks awesome. do you sell any of these still?
Yes, I make them sometimes and put them up, or I take orders. Stonegaardforge.com
Could you help me out? I plan to forge my own seax but i'am having a hard time finding out about the traditional beveling. My question is does the traditional seax have a straight edge double bevel or a chisel edge? Thanks.
There were many different examples the historical record so there is no one single way. Forge the bevel you prefer and it will be authentic.
I was not sure because most of the examples i've seen looked like chisel edge so thanks a ton for your reply godbless and be safe.
Excelente trabalho 👏👏✌️🇧🇷
Классная работа.👍
So is it cheating if I arc it out and grind it and heat treat it🤗
Not at all. I make most of my hunting knives that way. Forging is just old-world style and gives it a look.
very nice work... may I ask how long the blade is and how thick it is
Thanks! Yes it is a 13 inch blade and 5 inch handle. I used 1/4 thick bar stock of 5160 spring steel.
What kind of adhesive or epoxy do you use ?
West Systems 2-part. It is slower to set up but has excellent hold.
Crag I wish that anvil could talk. It has been there done that.
I was told by the antique vendor where I bought it that it is around 20 years old or so. Explained the markings on it for the weight and showed how it was made long before the methods of the industrial times. It is a colonial era anvil but not sure about its path. Probably floated around the Carolinas since it was made.
이 칼 제작해야 겠어요...!!!
How thick was the steel that you used? I'm currently in two minds as I have a piece of 1095, but it's only 3.5mm thick (0.138"). I can get 5160 that's 6mm (0.236") thick though, so maybe I should rather go with that?
I used 1/4 inch thick 5160. 1095 is a good blade steel but don't go too thin. Looks lame. Need a hearty blade. A good solid starter weight. 1/4 or 3/16 minimum I suggest.
Post a pic here when you get it done. I like seeing other's cool designs.
@@StonegaardForge Thanks for your reply. After watching your video, I'm going to go with 1/4" 5160 myself!
@@StonegaardForge I've got a piece of 1084, 18" x 2" x 1/4 that I'm going to start on if I ever get over Covid. I'm into my 3rd week now and I just want to get out of the house!
@@kiplambel4052 We had it too. About another week and you will be feeling better. But now you got natural immunity at least.
Muito bom guerreiro
Força 👍
Looks like you need to clean the clinker out of that fire. Also, your anvil is too low for your height. You shouldn’t have to bend over it
Thanks. I was hoping someone would give me unsolicited advice.
Hallo you can’t build one same for me please !!!