Quelle belle mise en œuvre, il n'y a pas un geste inutile et pourtant quand l'ensemble est achevé, on oublie tout le temps passé à régler, polir, calculer, poncer, limer... on ne voit que l'amour et la patience du maître artisan pour son ouvrage. bravo pour ce que vous nous offrez. 👋
Very nice work, thank you for sharing. I am wondering about the string clearance you put at the nut, is it the same on every string ? Also, I see the gauge you used is marked '50', in what unit is it meant to be converted ? 100th of mm, thousands of an inch ? Thank you so much again for your guidance in these videos, Kind regards
I use the metric system, so the 50 you read on the blades of the feeler gauge corresponds to 0.50 mm (half a millimeter). The height is the same for G, D, and A, but a bit lower for the steel E string (0.40). However, some prefer the E at the same height as the other strings because if it's too low they don't "feel" it well, especially for left-hand pizzicato. The height at the nut itself is also a matter of player preference, 0.50 is a medium height that fits most of the players and has the advantage that can be lowered if required. I consider as minimum height 0.30 mm
I prefer not to have the nut when I fit the neck inti the body, because I can better see the alignment of the sides of the fingerboard with the bridge and to see the height of the projection. Also, when I varnish I take off the fingerboard, and when I have to re-glue it I prefer to have a smaller reference than the nut (I put a low and narrow spruce cleat), because that way I can be more precise in repositioning the fingerboard. In the end it's a matter of how you feel most comfortable and how you can do the best job.
@@DavideSora Sì, ha senso. Succede che ultimamente non tolgo la tastiera, la incollo sicuramente perché per me è più comoda, anche se è più difficile da verniciare.
@@miguelgarciaferrer8008 Si, molti preferiscono verniciare con la tastiera già incollata. Ci sono pregi e difetti per entrambi i modi, ma di certo Stradivari e i cremonesi antichi verniciavano con la tastiera già incollata, e infatti lasciavano la parte sotto alla tastiera senza vernice.
Could you please tell me the diameter of the file you are working with starting from minute 10 of the video? I want to buy one and I don't know exactly what to ask for.
This is my go-to channel for almost all my instrument making tips. Excellent video as always maestro, I have a doubt though, is it fine to make a nut out of cattle bone, and how does it affect the acoustics of the instrument? Any insight will be greatly appreciated 😊
You can use cattle bone for the nuts, but there may be problems with excessive open string resonance versus fingered notes. In fact, the influence of nut material only affects open strings' sound. With ebony, this difference is greatly diminished and the sound is more homogeneous, for this reason bone is practically no longer used, except for aesthetic reasons perhaps to obtain some reminiscences of the Baroque era.
Bellissimo tutorial come tutti gli altri.Una sola domanda:che tipo di lima ad ago usa per le tacche guida delle corde e se è una sola o diversa per ciascuna corda?Grazie
Uso una lima a coda di topo da 1mm di diametro per le tre corde fasciate, e una lima da capotasto (quelle che tagliano solo sulla costa) da 0,35mm, per il Mi, che uso anche per fare le tracce iniziali. Puoi vederlo meglio qui: th-cam.com/video/XhQCLYtQgV8/w-d-xo.html
grazie mille insegnante per aver condiviso la tua preziosa conoscenza saluti dal Messico
It is impossible to watch your excellent videos without learning every time. You have certainly inspired me to do the best work I can do. Thank you.
Certo che i violini che crei , sono molto coccolati !! Non c'e' niente fuori posto!! Bravissimo Davide!!👏🏻👏🏻❤️🥇❤️
Quelle belle mise en œuvre, il n'y a pas un geste inutile et pourtant quand l'ensemble est achevé, on oublie tout le temps passé à régler, polir, calculer, poncer, limer... on ne voit que l'amour et la patience du maître artisan pour son ouvrage. bravo pour ce que vous nous offrez. 👋
This is Violin Making at its finest. Wonderful and accurate.
È stato così rilassante che mi sono addormentato mentre guardavo! Grazie!!!
Non ne ho mai abbastanza di congratulazioni per la qualità e la capriccio del lavoro 👏👏
Very helpful. Thank you.
Wow. All of your videos are so helpful and detailed. I will continue to learn from you, a real master.
Thank you for this.
Utilissima sintesi👍
Que trabalho maravilhoso! 👏👏
Very nice work, thank you for sharing.
I am wondering about the string clearance you put at the nut, is it the same on every string ? Also, I see the gauge you used is marked '50', in what unit is it meant to be converted ? 100th of mm, thousands of an inch ?
Thank you so much again for your guidance in these videos,
Kind regards
I use the metric system, so the 50 you read on the blades of the feeler gauge corresponds to 0.50 mm (half a millimeter). The height is the same for G, D, and A, but a bit lower for the steel E string (0.40). However, some prefer the E at the same height as the other strings because if it's too low they don't "feel" it well, especially for left-hand pizzicato. The height at the nut itself is also a matter of player preference, 0.50 is a medium height that fits most of the players and has the advantage that can be lowered if required. I consider as minimum height 0.30 mm
Thank you so much very helpful!
Great work, thanks.
Hola Davide, ¿Hay alguna razón para pegar la nuez después de barnizar?
I prefer not to have the nut when I fit the neck inti the body, because I can better see the alignment of the sides of the fingerboard with the bridge and to see the height of the projection. Also, when I varnish I take off the fingerboard, and when I have to re-glue it I prefer to have a smaller reference than the nut (I put a low and narrow spruce cleat), because that way I can be more precise in repositioning the fingerboard. In the end it's a matter of how you feel most comfortable and how you can do the best job.
@@DavideSora Sì, ha senso. Succede che ultimamente non tolgo la tastiera, la incollo sicuramente perché per me è più comoda, anche se è più difficile da verniciare.
@@miguelgarciaferrer8008 Si, molti preferiscono verniciare con la tastiera già incollata. Ci sono pregi e difetti per entrambi i modi, ma di certo Stradivari e i cremonesi antichi verniciavano con la tastiera già incollata, e infatti lasciavano la parte sotto alla tastiera senza vernice.
Could you please tell me the diameter of the file you are working with starting from minute 10 of the video? I want to buy one and I don't know exactly what to ask for.
It's a 1mm diameter "mouse tail" round file. These files are tapered towards the tip, so you have diameters from 1mm up to 0.4mm
excelente trabalho
thank you very helpful
You're welcome🙂
This is my go-to channel for almost all my instrument making tips.
Excellent video as always maestro, I have a doubt though, is it fine to make a nut out of cattle bone, and how does it affect the acoustics of the instrument? Any insight will be greatly appreciated 😊
You can use cattle bone for the nuts, but there may be problems with excessive open string resonance versus fingered notes. In fact, the influence of nut material only affects open strings' sound. With ebony, this difference is greatly diminished and the sound is more homogeneous, for this reason bone is practically no longer used, except for aesthetic reasons perhaps to obtain some reminiscences of the Baroque era.
@@DavideSora thank you so much maestro, that is a perfectly fitting answer, much appreciated 😊
Excellent.
Bellissimo tutorial come tutti gli altri.Una sola domanda:che tipo di lima ad ago usa per le tacche guida delle corde e se è una sola o diversa per ciascuna corda?Grazie
Uso una lima a coda di topo da 1mm di diametro per le tre corde fasciate, e una lima da capotasto (quelle che tagliano solo sulla costa) da 0,35mm, per il Mi, che uso anche per fare le tracce iniziali. Puoi vederlo meglio qui: th-cam.com/video/XhQCLYtQgV8/w-d-xo.html
@@DavideSora Grazie molte
👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍😊🇧🇷