I watched half a dozen TH-cam videos on rehairing and it wasn't until I watched yours that I finally found one that showed the critical information that others didn't bother to show, such as how to measure the length before cutting and tying the hair; how much of a gap to leave when cutting the wedge for the tip, and more. I just finished my first rehair and, except for two slightly loose hairs on the back side, it looks great and I think I got the length just right. Thank you!
Clear, thorough, and occasionally funny. What more could one ask for? Where other videos on this topic are vague, this series provides all the key details. Thanks to this series: 1) I rehaired a cheap fiberglass bow. First time I ever tried it. I followed the method as closely as I could, using tools that I had. Mostly, sandpaper. The bow is now usable again. Better than throwing it away, which is clearly what the manufacturer intended, once the hair had worn out. 2) I have a *much* greater appreciation for what goes into a high-quality bow rehairing. I'm not going to kid myself about the quality of my work. I'm taking my fine wooden bow to a professional for rehairing.
Your rehair series are great and ive watched them several times now.. I was wondering if it has ever crossed your mind to do videos on installing/replacing the thumb grip or winding.. or to do videos on general repairs and maintenance. lots of great videos out there about these various topics but it seems you've put alot of thought and conviction into your craft. i almost said passion.. but i think you made it clear what your passion actually is.. lol.
This is a great series. The rehairs I've done since watching these videos are so much better! You have improved my skill on this task so much! I'm so grateful for your generous heart in sharing this with us. Sincerely, James
I saw the 2 'notches' that were left by pushing the wood into the mortise, but are we supposed to take that as acknowledgement that the width is just right and no further adjustment is needed? Or are we supposed to do something else to the width? Thank you. Your video is amazing.
Gilles, thank you so much for this wonderful video series. I have learned very much. I have a question. I have seen a few bows with round holes for the frog mortise, and I was wondering how the plug for those is made? Thank you.
Thank you for your videos, they have certainly added to my knowledge and hopefull my rehairing sckills in the future. Can I ask you what type of knife you use to carve the plugs. All of my knives are a bit too flexible and I find it difficult to get a clean and accurate slice like you demonstrate in your videos. Many thanks.
For both the frog and tip mortises: After the hair is in place (in the front of the mortise), inserting the plug compresses it against the sides and back of the mortise. (I consider the hair to be coming out of the front of the mortise.)
After the hair is in place (in the front of the mortise), inserting the plug compresses the plug against the sides and back of the mortise. (I consider the hair to be coming out of the front of the mortise.)
Maple este lemn de artzar. Un lemn dens care cedeaza putin cind sectiunea e compresata, dar nu cedeaza cind lungimea e compresata. Cred a lemnul de fag (de facaletz!) ar merge la fel.
![How to Rehair a Violin Bow - Part 2 of 4: Making the First Knot [HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aU4v0YvXD4s/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Rehair a Violin Bow - Part 2 of 4: Making the First Knot [HD]](/img/tr.png)
![How to Rehair a Violin Bow - Part 4 of 4: Attaching the Hair to the Head [HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/atOxg0gRKxs/mqdefault.jpg)
I watched half a dozen TH-cam videos on rehairing and it wasn't until I watched yours that I finally found one that showed the critical information that others didn't bother to show, such as how to measure the length before cutting and tying the hair; how much of a gap to leave when cutting the wedge for the tip, and more.
I just finished my first rehair and, except for two slightly loose hairs on the back side, it looks great and I think I got the length just right.
Thank you!
Thank you John! 🙏🏻
@ Merry Christmas! My daughter finally started playing her violin again a few months ago, so the re-hairing is finally getting used.
Clear, thorough, and occasionally funny. What more could one ask for? Where other videos on this topic are vague, this series provides all the key details.
Thanks to this series:
1) I rehaired a cheap fiberglass bow. First time I ever tried it. I followed the method as closely as I could, using tools that I had. Mostly, sandpaper. The bow is now usable again. Better than throwing it away, which is clearly what the manufacturer intended, once the hair had worn out.
2) I have a *much* greater appreciation for what goes into a high-quality bow rehairing. I'm not going to kid myself about the quality of my work. I'm taking my fine wooden bow to a professional for rehairing.
Thank you so much! Makes me glad that I could help
Your rehair series are great and ive watched them several times now.. I was wondering if it has ever crossed your mind to do videos on installing/replacing the thumb grip or winding.. or to do videos on general repairs and maintenance. lots of great videos out there about these various topics but it seems you've put alot of thought and conviction into your craft. i almost said passion.. but i think you made it clear what your passion actually is.. lol.
Thank you! I made more videos but switch to Instagram @gillesnehrarchetier . Mostly about making bows but I plan to add more repair ones too.
Explications et vidéos très claires et avec une bonne dose d'humour... Accent adorable à la Chevalier !
Gilles, sorry! I found the answer to my question about the notches. Thank you.
Thank you Gilles, this is a very helpful video.
This is a great series. The rehairs I've done since watching these videos are so much better! You have improved my skill on this task so much! I'm so grateful for your generous heart in sharing this with us. Sincerely, James
Thank you!
Priceless knowledge! Thank you so so much!
Helpful screenshots:
@4:09 fit of the frog wedge
@5:52 fit of the tip wedge
what is the chisel type you use for the plug? I have searched rounded and curved chisels and gouges but I can't find the correct style you use.
I am also looking for the correct gouge size and style. Please drop a comment if anyone knows what he is using in the video
Stefan Valcuha gave me that little gouge while we were young and working at René Morel’s and I still use it. I’ve no idea where it comes from! hahaha
I saw the 2 'notches' that were left by pushing the wood into the mortise, but are we supposed to take that as acknowledgement that the width is just right and no further adjustment is needed? Or are we supposed to do something else to the width? Thank you. Your video is amazing.
Gilles, thank you so much for this wonderful video series. I have learned very much. I have a question. I have seen a few bows with round holes for the frog mortise, and I was wondering how the plug for those is made? Thank you.
These are cheap bows with the hole simply drilled.
That’s machine made frogs. You need to carve a rectangular mortise inside to be able to rehair it.
Thank you!
Nice
? How thick linings violin
I don’t know what the thickness its ...
Pleas tell me
list of tools sizes, s'il vous plait?!
Thank you for your videos, they have certainly added to my knowledge and hopefull my rehairing sckills in the future. Can I ask you what type of knife you use to carve the plugs. All of my knives are a bit too flexible and I find it difficult to get a clean and accurate slice like you demonstrate in your videos. Many thanks.
For years I used old style shaver blades in between two pieces of wood I made
What is the name of the tool you use to know how much hair you need?
It’s a Hair Gauge
What cord are you using and where can I purchase some?
What do I do if the mortise has rounded edges (looking top down)
it probably means it was machine made and I take the liberty of reshaping the mortise
Gille, why is the space for the hair on the opposite side of the plug? [for the frog]
For both the frog and tip mortises: After the hair is in place (in the front of the mortise), inserting the plug compresses it against the sides and back of the mortise. (I consider the hair to be coming out of the front of the mortise.)
It’s just a space measurement. You will put the hair on the proper side when using the plug
This wood does not look like Maple. is this Beech? (Fagus?) I may be mistaken tho
Why is the gap placed at the front of the plug when the hair will be coming out of the back?
After the hair is in place (in the front of the mortise), inserting the plug compresses the plug against the sides and back of the mortise. (I consider the hair to be coming out of the front of the mortise.)
It’s a space measurement. You will put the hair on the proper side when using the plug
A-ȘI DORI SĂ-MI SPUNE-ȚI VĂ ROG, DACĂ SE POATE, DIN CE LEMN SE POT FACE ACESTE PE E, INCLUSIV CEA CARE SE PUNE LA TALON? V-Ă MULȚUMESC!
Maple este lemn de artzar. Un lemn dens care cedeaza putin cind sectiunea e compresata, dar nu cedeaza cind lungimea e compresata. Cred a lemnul de fag (de facaletz!) ar merge la fel.
Maple is a good wood to use
D'après vous, qu'est-ce qui est pire, dire 'De' pour 'The', ou 'Ze' ?
Je pense qu’en tant que français nous sommes condamnés à un accent terrible à prononcer “The” et “Ze” est plus facile et moins pire :)
I find that cheap bows have rotten plugs. They are irregular. They are just chunks of wood shoved into a hole.
At least, it works...
That's an inappropriate mind of Chinese enterpreneur
That timber looks like beech