Gday Lance I am not much of a mechanic but managed with your video on fe 135 to replace a leaking pin on the left trumpet housing on my red diesel 35. Had a ball. I am thinking of acquiring a 135 to restore so I will be watching this full series with great interest. Keep up the good work. Cheers Ian from Markwood Vic.
My lift pump is on a mounting assembly that has a sediment bowl on it. Pretty sure whatever bladder or membrane inside my lift pump has probably seen better days, doesn’t feel like it pumps anything at all.
These days i use master gasket or an equivalent on most things . I even use it on rubber rockerbox cover gaskets and they never leak . I have used hylomar before and found it to be a good product , i think it is what they use on boeng engines
I fitted one of these fuel reservoirs to my MF35 23C as the original hand pump was missing, hoping that it would improve the starting, I think it does.
Could you explain the function of the lift pump? The fuel tank is up high so why isn't gravity feed adequate for the injector pump? Really enjoy your videos, thanks.
Yeah sure, When the fuel filter is blocking or its cold or the tank is getting low sometimes the fuel doesnt flow enough. The fuel lift pump supplies a constant pressure to the injection pump so you can be guaranteed constant power. They help a lot when you are bleeding the system as well. The Ford 4000 didnt have one and they were a bugger to bleed at times, the later Fords all had them.
Lance, I think the head gasket blew on my Massey Ferguson 231/ Perkins AD3.152! There was a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust, but the tractor didn’t run hot according to the temp gauge! When I try to crank the engine it wants to “hydro lock” and water comes out the radiator or from somewhere! The engine will start but it takes some effort! What do you recommend?? Thanks!
Hi Lance, many thanks for this video and for sharing your experience. I am following your episode on MF 135 Perkins AD3 152 engine which is equipping a o 1980 Landini tractor I own and which I may be overhauling with my poor experience and the helpfulness of yours video. I did the “finger test” you show and my finger comes out to be “oily” and “greasy” when I get it out. This states it is a dusted motor. It must be said a little smoke comes out born the head breather house (also form the oil fill cap if I take it out when hot) and find some oil drops under the eneigne when it is in the garage. Does this all mean the engine is almost ko? It has 6900 hours and use it for almos 15 hs/year… I do really thank you. Ciao from Italy
It does sound like it may be a little worn but if it start easily and holds good oil pressure it doesnt sound too bad. A sign of a dusted engine is that the oil pressure drops quite quickly when warm due to bearing wear from the dust.
Thanks Lance, appreciated. The point is I do not have any proper tool to check the oil pressure. I can say the oil pressure warning light popped up once when I had been using it or 3hs land rolling, I shut the tractor down and run it immediately again and it disappeared and popped up again after v20mins and so on. In my opinion this may have been caused by the oil pressure switch which in fact is leaking form the connection pin where the fast-on plug is. A -surely not so accurate test - some guys run here to check for good compression is to pull the stop lever on the CAV ignition pump an, when the engine is about to stop, release it (put it into run position again) to see if it keep on running again without shutting off.
I had not heard of the stop lever method. I have a couple of worn tractors so I might give it a go just for kicks. Try a new sender if it is leaking as it might not be correct, that should not be expensive.
Apparently I had a radiator water leak and my mother ran the tractor without water until it over heated and stopped running. It turns over but has no compression and no fire. I'm not a mechanic and don't know what its going to take to get it running again. Do you have any tips? The tractor is a MF 1250
Hi lance. Great stuff. I have learnt so much from your vids. I have an Fe35 23c 4 cylinder. Should I have a glass fuel bowl on it? The tank runs straight to the pump. Any help would be good. The serial number is sdf 96132. Should the colour be grey and gold or red and grey? It’s red and grey at the moment. Again any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.
G Day Tiny Maker, your tractor should be red and grey as up to 74655 or there abouts they were gold and grey and after that red and grey. Put a glass bowl filter in the line for sure as any help you can give the injection pump in staying clean will help it last longer for sure. Dirt is the enemy.
That thing came off easily, i am fighting a AD3.152 wich startet fuming white off the exhaust an building pressure in the radiator, got the top end nuts of and should come right of but just a tiny movement... stuck like a dog shait on my slippers. I guess the pin bolts are rusted solid with the top. Any tip to get that thing loose? Have soaked that thing in wd40 and left it dead innthe shed for the weekend now. Engine sits in a Volvo BM T430.
I have had similar problems when the head gasket has been blown and the carbon jams the head around some head studs. There will need to be a lot of wiggling going on.
I cracked my top yesterday with a rubber mallet..... tried too give it some nudges too come free and it got a tiny crack on the flat spot between the exhaust ports, but it finally gave up. 350 dollars for a new top with walves...
Ok that is fair enough. I know ours had a tap on the radiator and in the side of the block. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos and even replying to my comment.
G Day Michael, 1/4" bolts have a 7/16 hex, 5/16" have a 1/2" hex and 3/8" have a 9/16 hex. An exception to this is the nuts that hold the fuel lift pump on these engines. The thread is 5/16 unf but as there is a clearance problem they have a 7/16 hex. You dont see that often.
Brilliant video....im gonna follow this... Just got a 1979 135 as a hobby project...
Welcome
Gday Lance
I am not much of a mechanic but managed with your video on fe 135 to replace a leaking pin on the left trumpet housing on my red diesel 35. Had a ball. I am thinking of acquiring a 135 to restore so I will be watching this full series with great interest. Keep up the good work. Cheers Ian from Markwood Vic.
Thanks Ian That would be interesting to see, they are a nice light little tractor to work on.
Thank you for your channel. You are knowledgeable patient, and thorough.
Thanks Greg.
Nice one Lange great spanner technique.... We're sitting at 12 degrees here not 31 your having.
G Day Graham, 12deg here means its time for a rum to warm up, lol.
My lift pump is on a mounting assembly that has a sediment bowl on it. Pretty sure whatever bladder or membrane inside my lift pump has probably seen better days, doesn’t feel like it pumps anything at all.
They wont pump if the lobe is compressed by the cam. Turn the engine over to another spot and it may help.
Thanks for the videos mate. I'm learning a lot. I have been wanting a Massey 135.
Just go and buy yourself one, lol.
These days i use master gasket or an equivalent on most things . I even use it on rubber rockerbox cover gaskets and they never leak .
I have used hylomar before and found it to be a good product , i think it is what they use on boeng engines
Master gasket 515 is good stuff. Bareco brings out the same stuff for half the price called R51 I think.
I fitted one of these fuel reservoirs to my MF35 23C as the original hand pump was missing, hoping that it would improve the starting, I think it does.
G Day Geoff, The 23C likes the injection pump to be turned to the engine block at the top a little and that helps them start I find.
Video series pure Gold Lance. Just bought a 135 as a working tractor on a smallholding in Scotland. Need all the help I can get :)
G Day Lise, Im glad they can help, Im a bit slow at the moment I got to the panel work stage and Im not a panel beaters elbow.
Thanks brother its great and helpful video with good explen.God bleased you..
Thanks Ali.
Could you explain the function of the lift pump? The fuel tank is up high so why isn't gravity feed adequate for the injector pump? Really enjoy your videos, thanks.
Yeah sure, When the fuel filter is blocking or its cold or the tank is getting low sometimes the fuel doesnt flow enough. The fuel lift pump supplies a constant pressure to the injection pump so you can be guaranteed constant power. They help a lot when you are bleeding the system as well. The Ford 4000 didnt have one and they were a bugger to bleed at times, the later Fords all had them.
Hylomar blue and red done the job
good stuff that.
Lance, I think the head gasket blew on my Massey Ferguson 231/ Perkins AD3.152! There was a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust, but the tractor didn’t run hot according to the temp gauge! When I try to crank the engine it wants to “hydro lock” and water comes out the radiator or from somewhere! The engine will start but it takes some effort! What do you recommend?? Thanks!
Pop the cylinder head off and Im pretty sure you will see the problem.
Bundy Bears Shed what could have caused it to blow?
Bundy Bears Shed it was the head gasket. Having it repaired now. Where is the engine serial number located? I can’t find it anywhere! Perkins AD3.152
Lance, no need to edit out the undoing of bolts etc. I'd be happy to watch the entire process in real time.
Thanks I do wonder at times that it drags on a bit.
Stripped my 135 and no valve stem oil seals, in the new engine kit found 3 valve stem oil seals. Can they be fitted to the intake valve's.
Yes they can, no problem there.
Hi Lance, many thanks for this video and for sharing your experience. I am following your episode on MF 135 Perkins
AD3 152 engine which is equipping a o 1980 Landini tractor I own and which I
may be overhauling with my poor experience and the helpfulness of yours video.
I did the “finger test” you show
and my finger comes out to be “oily” and “greasy” when I get it out. This
states it is a dusted motor. It must be said
a little smoke comes out born the head breather house (also form the oil fill cap if I
take it out when hot) and find some oil drops under the eneigne when it is in the garage.
Does this all mean the engine is
almost ko? It has 6900 hours and use it for almos 15 hs/year…
I do really thank you.
Ciao from Italy
It does sound like it may be a little worn but if it start easily and holds good oil pressure it doesnt sound too bad. A sign of a dusted engine is that the oil pressure drops quite quickly when warm due to bearing wear from the dust.
Thanks Lance, appreciated.
The point is I do not have any proper tool to check the oil pressure. I can say the oil pressure warning light popped up once when I had been using it or 3hs land rolling, I shut the tractor down and run it immediately again and it disappeared and popped up again after v20mins and so on.
In my opinion this may have been caused by the oil pressure switch which in fact is leaking form the connection pin where the fast-on plug is.
A -surely not so accurate test - some guys run here to check for good compression is to pull the stop lever on the CAV ignition pump an, when the engine is about to stop, release it (put it into run position again) to see if it keep on running again without shutting off.
I had not heard of the stop lever method. I have a couple of worn tractors so I might give it a go just for kicks. Try a new sender if it is leaking as it might not be correct, that should not be expensive.
Cool video. Cheers!
thanks Arthur
Apparently I had a radiator water leak and my mother ran the tractor without water until it over heated and stopped running. It turns over but has no compression and no fire. I'm not a mechanic and don't know what its going to take to get it running again. Do you have any tips? The tractor is a MF 1250
Not really I think you will need to pull the head off and have a look.
Hi Lance, did I see a "spin-on oil filter"?, someone loved her at some stage.
Yes it does
🏹⚓👍🆗🇹🇷~~dear elder, thank you for your efforts. It will be like a joke, but again
Thankyou
Hi lance. Great stuff. I have learnt so much from your vids. I have an Fe35 23c 4 cylinder. Should I have a glass fuel bowl on it? The tank runs straight to the pump. Any help would be good. The serial number is sdf 96132. Should the colour be grey and gold or red and grey? It’s red and grey at the moment. Again any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.
G Day Tiny Maker, your tractor should be red and grey as up to 74655 or there abouts they were gold and grey and after that
red and grey.
Put a glass bowl filter in the line for sure as any help you can give the injection pump in staying clean will help it last longer for sure. Dirt is the enemy.
Thank you so much for getting back to me and also for helping. Love the vids, I’m learning so much. Keep up the great work.
That thing came off easily, i am fighting a AD3.152 wich startet fuming white off the exhaust an building pressure in the radiator, got the top end nuts of and should come right of but just a tiny movement... stuck like a dog shait on my slippers. I guess the pin bolts are rusted solid with the top. Any tip to get that thing loose? Have soaked that thing in wd40 and left it dead innthe shed for the weekend now. Engine sits in a Volvo BM T430.
I have had similar problems when the head gasket has been blown and the carbon jams the head around some head studs. There will need to be a lot of wiggling going on.
I cracked my top yesterday with a rubber mallet..... tried too give it some nudges too come free and it got a tiny crack on the flat spot between the exhaust ports, but it finally gave up. 350 dollars for a new top with walves...
I notice on this engine there are only 2 exhaust outlets there? with that are they running two pots into one exhaust port? Cheers Garry
Yes two into one.
Did your radiator not have a tap on the opposite side to the bottom hose? Would have saved some mess haha
G Day Sam, No it appears to be an after market one and they dont waste money fitting a tap, lol.
Ok that is fair enough. I know ours had a tap on the radiator and in the side of the block. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos and even replying to my comment.
Thanks Sam, Glad you enjoy them, i hope you find them useful.
I really do as I am currently studying at college to become an agricultural engineer.
If you were replacing a cracked head with a second hand head would it need to be skimmed
I would check it with a straight edge, If it is true there would be no real need.
Please "Lites, kilo and cm, mm" 🙂
Easy to understand both, there is converters on the web I use from time to time.
Not that it really matters but there not 1/4 bolts there 5/16 bolts, 7/16 head means 5/16 thread.
G Day Michael, 1/4" bolts have a 7/16 hex, 5/16" have a 1/2" hex and 3/8" have a 9/16 hex. An exception to this is the nuts that hold the fuel lift pump on these engines. The thread is 5/16 unf but as there is a clearance problem they have a 7/16 hex. You dont see that often.