This is the making of a great series, better that any handbook. We here in Northern Ireland are lovers of the wee Fergie and Massey Ferguson 135 for obvious reasons ( Harry was an Ulsterman) looking forward for each upload Lance. Graham Coulter
Just want to give you a thumbs up for all your good videos! Got a MF 135, a 350 and a 3060 on our farm in Sweden. Could not keep the farm running without your vids =) No matter what I need to get in to I seem to end up on one of your videos. Like now for testing the compression on the 3060. From one side of the globe to the other - thanks for your work!
Thanks lance my memories not good I hide my own Easter eggs now so when I forget how to do a repair on a tractor I look up your video to jog my memory thanks nick
Really nice videos, me and my dad bought an old MF135 thats been sitting in a shed for 20+ years just rusting. The forest had grown upp around the shed, bit of work to get it out to a road. Now its in the Garage, were taking it slowly apart. Its gonna need alot of love, and were gonna need to Watch some of your videos i reckon. It seems like we have found a bit different traktor from yours, its got "overdrive" and some other features, but most seems to be the same. Greetings from Sweden and thank you, these vidoes are gonna be very helpfull.
G day Martin, Im glad to hear of another restoration, they are great old tractors, I hope the videos help you along with yours, I have many videos to do yet on mine.
@@BundyBearsShed Hope you dont mind some questions :) The Diesel that was in the tank did not smell like diesel at all. Could it have been some kind of preserving fluid? Also we have a little extra radiator in front of our big one not sure what it's for, maby it's for the hydraulic fluid since there is a excavator on it. (Sorry for bad English, you don't learn these terms in swedish schools) we are a bit scared of starting it without taking a whole lot apart too look first. New oil etc. Once again thank you for a great show and don't forget to appreciate the good weather u got. We have had around 1 degree c now for 4 months.
I think ur Chanel is brilliant lance. I’ve a fe35 needing an engine rebuild they can sometimes be a bugger to start which mine is. Chris walker Northern Ireland
G Day Chris, Just a tip for the 23C, try loosening the injection pump and turning it towards the engine block at the top and I find that helps at times.
Your experience with that cheap ebay compression gauge was the same as mine.. it failed after 3 cylinders. Same symptoms, pressure release button had no effect... threw it in the bin.
G Day Darren, I knew it had very low oil pressure when hot so the engine rebuild was expected when I bought it. It was just a good test to do for the series.
Had the same problem with the H-thing in the eBay compression kit on my MF275, except much worse, since the injectors are rotated 90deg and and the head bolts all interfere. I made a much smaller and thinner plate and it turns out that oxygen sensors use the same thread, so a weld nut is available at the auto parts store. My gauge reset hasn't broken yet :)
Hi Lance, findings not so good on the test but I think its better and easier to do now while everything is getting dismantled than having to do it down the road and risking scratching the new paint job in the future, also engine rebuilds are interesting and fairly simple(compared to todays engines)if you have any clue at all. cheers Derek
G Day Derek, I knew this engine had very low oil pressure when hot so I had allowed for an engine rebuild. I just thought it would be an interesting video.
Hi Lance thanks for your great videos I have a 23c that i rebuilt with new sparex piston liner kit and cylinder head was rebuilt but still having issues with getting the engine to fire without assistance. Engine runs fine once its started just difficult on startup im assuming its a lack of compression havent tested that yet but it seems to me fairly obvious its low.Set the valve lash at 12 thou how much liner protrusion above the deck height of the block maybe theres to much causing the lack of comp thanks for your wonderful videos again Cheers Ken
As the engine wears in it should have more compression. Try timing as well and advance it a little I have found that helps in the past. There is a free workshop manual download on my web site here queenslandtractorspares.com.au/technical/
The 23C was notoriously bad at starting, I always found that some were better than others and, strangely, the good ones stayed good and the bad ones never got better no matter what you did, I always assumed that manufacturing tolerances were no so good back then and there was enough difference to affect how well they started, they are also prone to camshaft wear so that is worth checking, however, the last time I asked camshafts were unavailable so good luck.
Hi Lance. I modified an old injector to do compression test on my FE35-23C engine. Took all the guts out, enlarged the bore and fitted QR nipple in place of fuel connector and blanked off the fuel return port. (I do not have the machinery you do to make a new bridge if needed :-(
I was always more interested in the pressure on the first hit. I feel that being the valves open between compression strokes the cylinders do not pump like the compression gauge does with the one way valve in it. It is the first hit of compression that ignites the fuel. Just my humble opinion.
G day Big'un. I think the problem with just the first hit is that when compression testing the engine speed would not be the same as on a running engine where it is firing on first hit. I think the stated compression figures in the manual are like Im doing it as in when the gauge settles. Interesting to think about though.
I agree about the manuals recommendation but the first hit on a good engine will not be too far below what it pumps up to. Just my preference. Of course the true way to check is to perform a pressure cylinder leak down test. Advantage there is you get a percentage of leakage and you can actually hear where the leak is the most. Listen to intake, exhaust and crankcase for air hissing. Had Snap On one with the adapter for both large injectors and pencil injectors in addition to spark plug sizes. Guy I sold it to still uses it today and it is over 40 years old.
G’day Lance,just wanted to ask whether replace of injector seal is needed after they have been taken out to do compression test. Or can I just do the test and then put the injectors back in place?Thank you
Thanks Lance, appreciated. Did you have to bleed (purge) the CAV pump after this? I'll get a test kit and do this on my AD3 152... do you think a complete rebuild is fresabile for a newbie with some skills (certainly less than yours) in repariring?
Great video, I have a mf 168 that lets out coolant through the expansion pipe only if its parked up for a couple of days but is running fine. Would the head gasket be on the way out?
Lance, if you had a blown head Gasket what would happen with the Compression test? as I have the FE35 4 cylinder engine and I think it's done the head Gasket, it won't start at this stage unless towed till if fires, it runs pretty well when running but I bought it non-running and had fuel issues. Because I have little knowledge and doing this as a bit of a fun hobby with the goal to have a tractor I can use here as the outcome I am enjoying the learning curve when I got it the oil was as I would expect and it was Black as coal but they had been having issues with starting it and just replaced the tractor and left it for about 5 years they said. I had a lot of trouble getting fuel up to it but when I did and tow started it because the starter cannot get it running. It would run fine but I would cut it back to idle and go put the car away and by the time I got back it had stopped and towing proved there was no fuel up there at all, Now I have finally got fuel to be there, But now the oil has water in it and going grey, and the tractor now will get rough at idle. Any suggestions as to which way I should go as I thought of putting a compression test on it just to either confirm my thoughts? I was told that these tractors were terrible to start anyway, But that does not make sense to me as they would have found it difficult to sell them if that were the case. Cheers Garry
Great vid Lance. What l know about diesels could be written on a postage stamp! What psi would you expect on a big single cylinder like my Field Marshall or a Lanz ?
Hi Lance, have you done a video on compression checking the 23C diesel motor, need to check mine but looking at other videos, it appears i might need a special fitting to go into the injector hole.
Fascinating stuff Lance, have subscribed to you. I own a 35 with the 23c diesel, and a 65 Mk2 Multipower. Both great tractors but the 35 is a bit of a pig to start. I was thinking about doing a compression test to see whether I can narrow it down to the engine itself of the injectors or pump. I don't really have the cash to throw around to do all of it as I need to buy 2 new rears for the 65! Can anyone recommend a compression test kit that will fit the 23c? All the best - James, UK
The 23C engine is a bit different on the injector so I think you will need to make something up. Just a tip for the 23C, try loosening the injection pump and turning it towards the engine block at the top and I find that helps at times.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks very much Lance, very kind of you. I'll have a look at that. I am hoping that the refurbished starter motor will be enough. I am not sure whether the glow plugs work; they have been wired with the "over and under" method that results in them all not working if one fails, so I will be testing each one and going from there. Hopefully working glow plugs and the refurbed starter will be enough! Otherwise I will try your advice. Many thanks.
Hi Lance love the channel I've just finished a an engine rebuild on my 35x and have discovered back pressure on the breather pipe. I've completed a compression test and I'm getting 280 psi to 320 psi, I'm wondering if I have put the rings in the wrong way?
That does seem a little low for compression but with finished liners they are never exactly round just due to the engine block. I would put some cheap 30 weight oil in it and give it time to run in. A bit of hard work will do it a heap of good. I think if you work it hard and do another test you will be supprised. Make sure the air cleaner is not gummed up at all in the gauze.
It's a wonder the compression is as good as it is having been run without the air being filtered. Could have been all manner of bugs and debris run through the engine.
Love these restoration series as i am currently restoring a tractor! A David Brown 996. Good luck with this tractor. I look forward to the final result. Also feel free to check out my restoration videos on my channel. Keep up the good work!
Yes the one i have is 2wd and i believe that they are one of the best gripping tractors ever made 2wd or 4wd. Here in Northern Ireland they are common enough however the tin work on them are usually very bad due the the weather. I have spent a lot of time working on the mudguards to get them into good shape again as it is basically impossible to find a solid pair of metal ones.
Hi Lance. I took my tank off to rebuild the motor but am having trouble putting the tank back on. I couldn't find any info on how to do this. can you help?
@@BundyBearsShed I'm open the site but i can't payment from Pakistan, if you have purchased, kindly send me manual at WhatsApp, my WhatsApp number:- +923163911948
The original generator is 11amp, by the time you have a flashing light and headlamps on that is around 13amps so to charge a phone and run a fridge an alternator just gives me a safety margin.
Bundy Bears Shed thank you makes perfect sense. Explains why when I was a kid grandad would yell at us for putting the light on with out the tractor running.
My english dont the best. Engine Perkins 3,152. Pistons 91,48 mm On the test of compression what is the biggest pressure in the cilinder. Max or min ( Bar-Psi)..
@@BundyBearsShed ok thank you. My engine license Perkins. DM 33 IMR Belgrade Yugoslavia. I don't have no information for pressure in cilinder. 400psi. What is the lowest level of pressure in the engine and what is the time for general reparation of engine.
G Day John, I knew the oil pressure was getting very low when it was hot so that is a sign of worn bottom end so an engine rebuild was in the plan for sure.
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From Canada...bought a derelict 135 3 yrs ago. Now I think it has a blown hd gskt. Glad I found your site.
Welcome Wayne, I love buying derelict tractors, fixing them is the hobby for me, not half as much fun when they are finished,
This is the making of a great series, better that any handbook. We here in Northern Ireland are lovers of the wee Fergie and Massey Ferguson 135 for obvious reasons ( Harry was an Ulsterman) looking forward for each upload Lance. Graham Coulter
Thanks Graham.
Just want to give you a thumbs up for all your good videos!
Got a MF 135, a 350 and a 3060 on our farm in Sweden. Could not keep the farm running without your vids =)
No matter what I need to get in to I seem to end up on one of your videos. Like now for testing the compression on the 3060.
From one side of the globe to the other - thanks for your work!
That is awesome! Im glad it is useful. Thats the main motivator for my channel, help people do their own work.
Thanks lance my memories not good I hide my own Easter eggs now so when I forget how to do a repair on a tractor I look up your video to jog my memory thanks nick
Glad to help.
Great video, I bought a diesel compression tester off Amazon and didn't know how to bolt it up to my tractor injectors and now I do thanks mate
Glad it helped
Really nice videos, me and my dad bought an old MF135 thats been sitting in a shed for 20+ years just rusting. The forest had grown upp around the shed, bit of work to get it out to a road. Now its in the Garage, were taking it slowly apart. Its gonna need alot of love, and were gonna need to Watch some of your videos i reckon. It seems like we have found a bit different traktor from yours, its got "overdrive" and some other features, but most seems to be the same. Greetings from Sweden and thank you, these vidoes are gonna be very helpfull.
G day Martin, Im glad to hear of another restoration, they are great old tractors, I hope the videos help you along with yours, I have many videos to do yet on mine.
@@BundyBearsShed Hope you dont mind some questions :) The Diesel that was in the tank did not smell like diesel at all. Could it have been some kind of preserving fluid? Also we have a little extra radiator in front of our big one not sure what it's for, maby it's for the hydraulic fluid since there is a excavator on it. (Sorry for bad English, you don't learn these terms in swedish schools) we are a bit scared of starting it without taking a whole lot apart too look first. New oil etc. Once again thank you for a great show and don't forget to appreciate the good weather u got. We have had around 1 degree c now for 4 months.
thanks for the good video - tempted to try this on our mf135
Go for it!
I'm looking forward to this series Lance. Ive just bought a 240 in need of some TLC. Graham Northern Ireland
g Day Graham, Im pretty sure the 240 has the same engine or a very similar one.
Best advice on the net.
Thankyou.
I think ur Chanel is brilliant lance. I’ve a fe35 needing an engine rebuild they can sometimes be a bugger to start which mine is. Chris walker Northern Ireland
G Day Chris, Just a tip for the 23C, try loosening the injection pump and turning it towards the engine block at the top and I find that helps at times.
Another fab restoration on the way! good stuff mate
Thanks Marcus.
Great video + well explained. Really looking forward to the rest of this series, the 135 is a great tractor.
Thanks jix177
Your experience with that cheap ebay compression gauge was the same as mine.. it failed after 3 cylinders. Same symptoms, pressure release button had no effect... threw it in the bin.
G Day Duncan, i have pulled it apart and it looks difficult to get in and fix, mine might go into the bin too, yet, lol.
That was bloody interesting thanks Lance
Thanks Steve.
This is excellent.
Thanks
Good start to the series Lance - I don't think this tractor had too much TLC during it's working life.
G Day Charles, No it has not had much lovin this one, but I knew that and thats how I like them.
Hey Lance, too bad about the poor compression but it will make for a good video series. Keep smiling.
G Day Darren, I knew it had very low oil pressure when hot so the engine rebuild was expected when I bought it. It was just a good test to do for the series.
Had the same problem with the H-thing in the eBay compression kit on my MF275, except much worse, since the injectors are rotated 90deg and and the head bolts all interfere. I made a much smaller and thinner plate and it turns out that oxygen sensors use the same thread, so a weld nut is available at the auto parts store. My gauge reset hasn't broken yet :)
Thanks Jim, That is good to know.
Thanks so much...really helpful!
Thanks Calvin.
Hi Lance, findings not so good on the test but I think its better and easier to do now while everything is getting dismantled than having to do it down the road and risking scratching the new paint job in the future, also engine rebuilds are interesting and fairly simple(compared to todays engines)if you have any clue at all. cheers Derek
G Day Derek, I knew this engine had very low oil pressure when hot so I had allowed for an engine rebuild. I just thought it would be an interesting video.
Hi Lance thanks for your great videos I have a 23c that i rebuilt with new sparex piston liner kit and cylinder head was rebuilt but still having issues with getting the engine to fire without assistance. Engine runs fine once its started just difficult on startup im assuming its a lack of compression havent tested that yet but it seems to me fairly obvious its low.Set the valve lash at 12 thou how much liner protrusion above the deck height of the block maybe theres to much causing the lack of comp thanks for your wonderful videos again
Cheers Ken
As the engine wears in it should have more compression. Try timing as well and advance it a little I have found that helps in the past. There is a free workshop manual download on my web site here queenslandtractorspares.com.au/technical/
The 23C was notoriously bad at starting, I always found that some were better than others and, strangely, the good ones stayed good and the bad ones never got better no matter what you did, I always assumed that manufacturing tolerances were no so good back then and there was enough difference to affect how well they started, they are also prone to camshaft wear so that is worth checking, however, the last time I asked camshafts were unavailable so good luck.
Hi Lance. I modified an old injector to do compression test on my FE35-23C engine. Took all the guts out, enlarged the bore and fitted QR nipple in place of fuel connector and blanked off the fuel return port. (I do not have the machinery you do to make a new bridge if needed :-(
G Day Tony, I think with the 23C I will need to do similar as I dont think a bought kit would have anything to do the job.
i decided to watch the series because i am looking into starting to restore my mf 135 and i want to know weather i am doing the right thing
They are well worth doing up and worth a bit of money when done so worth it in my opinion
@@BundyBearsShed I want to do it up and run a hobby farm along side a mf35
Great vid thanks for sharing
Thankyou.
I was always more interested in the pressure on the first hit. I feel that being the valves open between compression strokes the cylinders do not pump like the compression gauge does with the one way valve in it. It is the first hit of compression that ignites the fuel. Just my humble opinion.
G day Big'un. I think the problem with just the first hit is that when compression testing the engine speed would not be the same as on a running engine where it is firing on first hit. I think the stated compression figures in the manual are like Im doing it as in when the gauge settles. Interesting to think about though.
I agree about the manuals recommendation but the first hit on a good engine will not be too far below what it pumps up to. Just my preference. Of course the true way to check is to perform a pressure cylinder leak down test. Advantage there is you get a percentage of leakage and you can actually hear where the leak is the most. Listen to intake, exhaust and crankcase for air hissing. Had Snap On one with the adapter for both large injectors and pencil injectors in addition to spark plug sizes. Guy I sold it to still uses it today and it is over 40 years old.
G’day Lance,just wanted to ask whether replace of injector seal is needed after they have been taken out to do compression test. Or can I just do the test and then put the injectors back in place?Thank you
Ideally they should be replaced but I have not in the past at times and not had an issue if you keep it all clean.
Thanks Lance, appreciated. Did you have to bleed (purge) the CAV pump after this? I'll get a test kit and do this on my AD3 152... do you think a complete rebuild is fresabile for a newbie with some skills (certainly less than yours) in repariring?
Great video, I have a mf 168 that lets out coolant through the expansion pipe only if its parked up for a couple of days but is running fine. Would the head gasket be on the way out?
Possibly but leaking parked up seems odd.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for the reply, Its very odd🙈
Lance, if you had a blown head Gasket what would happen with the Compression test? as I have the FE35 4 cylinder engine and I think it's done the head Gasket, it won't start at this stage unless towed till if fires, it runs pretty well when running but I bought it non-running and had fuel issues.
Because I have little knowledge and doing this as a bit of a fun hobby with the goal to have a tractor I can use here as the outcome I am enjoying the learning curve when I got it the oil was as I would expect and it was Black as coal but they had been having issues with starting it and just replaced the tractor and left it for about 5 years they said. I had a lot of trouble getting fuel up to it but when I did and tow started it because the starter cannot get it running.
It would run fine but I would cut it back to idle and go put the car away and by the time I got back it had stopped and towing proved there was no fuel up there at all, Now I have finally got fuel to be there, But now the oil has water in it and going grey, and the tractor now will get rough at idle. Any suggestions as to which way I should go as I thought of putting a compression test on it just to either confirm my thoughts?
I was told that these tractors were terrible to start anyway, But that does not make sense to me as they would have found it difficult to sell them if that were the case. Cheers Garry
Compression would be low on possibly two cylinders
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for that I will look into it as its all a fun learning curve
Hi Lance, if I understood correctly you kept the stopper lever on the cav pump engaged so to not feed fuel to injectors? right?
Yes that is correct.
Great vid Lance. What l know about diesels could be written on a postage stamp!
What psi would you expect on a big single cylinder like my Field Marshall or a Lanz ?
G Day Duncan, I have never tested one but around 400psi is average for diesel engines as they are compression ignition but I cant say for sure.
Hi Lance, have you done a video on compression checking the 23C diesel motor, need to check mine but looking at other videos, it appears i might need a special fitting to go into the injector hole.
No just the petrol and 3 cylinder Perkins.
did the copper washer come up with the injector or did you fish them out later
Both Jim, one had to be fished out but the other two came with the injectors.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks
Fascinating stuff Lance, have subscribed to you. I own a 35 with the 23c diesel, and a 65 Mk2 Multipower. Both great tractors but the 35 is a bit of a pig to start. I was thinking about doing a compression test to see whether I can narrow it down to the engine itself of the injectors or pump. I don't really have the cash to throw around to do all of it as I need to buy 2 new rears for the 65! Can anyone recommend a compression test kit that will fit the 23c? All the best - James, UK
The 23C engine is a bit different on the injector so I think you will need to make something up. Just a tip for the 23C, try loosening the injection pump and turning it towards the engine block at the top and I find that helps at times.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks very much Lance, very kind of you. I'll have a look at that. I am hoping that the refurbished starter motor will be enough. I am not sure whether the glow plugs work; they have been wired with the "over and under" method that results in them all not working if one fails, so I will be testing each one and going from there. Hopefully working glow plugs and the refurbed starter will be enough! Otherwise I will try your advice. Many thanks.
Fitting a ford 4000 starter will help spin them faster as well, you just need to open the bolt holes up slightly.
@@BundyBearsShed Ahh yes very true. Would like to try and keep it 'original' as such if I can get away with it. We'll see how we go! Thanks!
Hi Lance love the channel I've just finished a an engine rebuild on my 35x and have discovered back pressure on the breather pipe. I've completed a compression test and I'm getting 280 psi to 320 psi, I'm wondering if I have put the rings in the wrong way?
That does seem a little low for compression but with finished liners they are never exactly round just due to the engine block. I would put some cheap 30 weight oil in it and give it time to run in. A bit of hard work will do it a heap of good.
I think if you work it hard and do another test you will be supprised. Make sure the air cleaner is not gummed up at all in the gauze.
Hi Lance I have a 168 and am trying to get injectors out. They seem to be very stiff. Have been leveraging however seem well stuck. Any suggestions.
Only thing I can suggest is to try and twist them while levering. Removing the mounting studs may help if you can get to then enough.
It's a wonder the compression is as good as it is having been run without the air being filtered. Could have been all manner of bugs and debris run through the engine.
Yes Dave and it started easily as well.
Love these restoration series as i am currently restoring a tractor! A David Brown 996. Good luck with this tractor. I look forward to the final result.
Also feel free to check out my restoration videos on my channel.
Keep up the good work!
The DB996 being a 4wd was a great tractor, I would buy one to play with but they are such a good tractor they dont come for sale over here often.
Yes the one i have is 2wd and i believe that they are one of the best gripping tractors ever made 2wd or 4wd. Here in Northern Ireland they are common enough however the tin work on them are usually very bad due the the weather. I have spent a lot of time working on the mudguards to get them into good shape again as it is basically impossible to find a solid pair of metal ones.
What is the actual spec that it calls for?
Im away on leave but I think it would be up around 400psi. I would have to look in the manual.
Hi Lance. I took my tank off to rebuild the motor but am having trouble putting the tank back on. I couldn't find any info on how to do this. can you help?
You need to fit the front cup head bolts and springs and slide them in while lifting at the back a little.
Do you have a video on combustion cap on a 152
No I havent owned one for a long time
Those engines wet sleeve?
No dry Brian, Weld out and press in quickly.
I need a MF 135 workshop manual ?
Ferr download on my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical pages.
@@BundyBearsShed I'm open the site but i can't payment from Pakistan, if you have purchased, kindly send me manual at WhatsApp, my WhatsApp number:-
+923163911948
Ciao Lance, got the cheap testing tool on ebay.. should the test be made with hot or cold engine? I hope the gauge does not fail... lol
Coldd is fine, mine is a cheap ebay one too, lol.
@@BundyBearsShed thx Lance i ll report readings then !!!!
Hi mate have a question
Why do you need an alternator to drive it on the road over the generator? What is the difference?
The original generator is 11amp, by the time you have a flashing light and headlamps on that is around 13amps so to charge a phone and run a fridge an alternator just gives me a safety margin.
Bundy Bears Shed thank you makes perfect sense. Explains why when I was a kid grandad would yell at us for putting the light on with out the tractor running.
My english dont the best. Engine Perkins 3,152. Pistons 91,48 mm
On the test of compression what is the biggest pressure in the cilinder. Max or min ( Bar-Psi)..
Most diesels you are looking for the pressure to be even over the cylinders and up around 400psi.
@@BundyBearsShed ok thank you. My engine license Perkins. DM 33 IMR Belgrade Yugoslavia. I don't have no information for pressure in cilinder. 400psi. What is the lowest level of pressure in the engine and what is the time for general reparation of engine.
G'day Lance I'd put money on it that you knew that was going to happen. She still was firing over to run that pump though regards John
G Day John, I knew the oil pressure was getting very low when it was hot so that is a sign of worn bottom end so an engine rebuild was in the plan for sure.
arr reco it thats why kelly was barking LOL///// how many kgs u runing at
109kg
Sneaky little tappy tap tap 😉
Bashing it to try and release the pressure, didnt work, lol.
Hey