my mechanic charged me 300 for both front in labor. i bought two parts at 190 each. so about 700. You can buy cheap hubs at rockauto for 70 each, and do it yourself, costing you $140 and some of your own labor+time.
How did you get the assembly out of the hub? I got the torx bolts out but it is siezed in the hub. Hammering on the back with a bearing press insert didn't work, and the rentable slidehammer/hub puller attachments from autoparts stores aren't big enough to fit the studs. Kind of at a loss of how to proceed. Did yours just fall out with a tug after removing the torx bolts? Thanks
Found a method that works nicely from a European spec video that works the same. Get a 4 inch long m10x1.5 bolt. Take out the torx bolts, then three of the hex bolts. Thread the 4 inch bolt through where the hex bolts came from. They will pass through the rotor and end up pushing against the knuckle of the car, acting as a press to separate the bearing from the knuckle without having to hit it with a hammer!
Awesome, I'm glad you found a way. For me i gave it a tap with a hammer on the top and it fell out. I don't get snow where I live so i have no rust that will make it tough.
I noticed you had the wrong hub when I saw it. The one you had was for the Transit 350 HD with rear dual wheels. The only difference from what I understand is six lug nuts vice five. All steps are same. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, I figured it all out, but the video would definitely benefit by simply showing the parts and which parts fit to which part, instead of only talking about them. I get you may not have had a second camera man, but you could pick it up. Like, pick up the rotor, plug in some of the bolts that go into the knuckle, then hold up the hub against the knuckle, and show that those are the bolts that go into the hub. then do the same thing for the hub and rotor - pick up the bolts, get a close up, put a couple into the hub, then put the hub up against the rotor, showing exactly which parts, which location align with which parts. same again for the 5 sticking out ones for the wheel. easy, much more clear.
Sweet. I'm so used to removing the entire thing on cars that I didn't even think of trying it thay way. Next time I will try and see if I can document it
rockauto.com forddiscountparts.com (but their catalog isn't too good, so always put in your VIN. and shipping is more expensive than rockauto. But they do have oem parts). For wheel hubs, i would go with rockauto non-oem. I got oem, but that was out of not knowing, and erring on the side of caution. Now that i know this is an easy job, i'd go with cheaper ones. they range from $60 to $180, so even a bad one you can get 3 times before an oem one.
You just saved me about $800.00 of mechanic costs.... Thank you!
No problem. Thanks for watching and commenting
my mechanic charged me 300 for both front in labor.
i bought two parts at 190 each.
so about 700.
You can buy cheap hubs at rockauto for 70 each, and do it yourself, costing you $140 and some of your own labor+time.
Thanks for the video. Looks like the job can be easily done in the driveway.
No problem, yeah it isn't too hard
i thought i needed a press for this job.
i just needed to unbolt stuff...
@@gwho although, if the hub assembly is stuck inside the steering knuckle, using a slide hammer to remove it will be useful.
Helped a lot thanks 🙏
No problem. Glad to help
Thank you
Thank u !!
No problem 👍👍
How did you get the assembly out of the hub? I got the torx bolts out but it is siezed in the hub. Hammering on the back with a bearing press insert didn't work, and the rentable slidehammer/hub puller attachments from autoparts stores aren't big enough to fit the studs. Kind of at a loss of how to proceed. Did yours just fall out with a tug after removing the torx bolts? Thanks
Found a method that works nicely from a European spec video that works the same. Get a 4 inch long m10x1.5 bolt. Take out the torx bolts, then three of the hex bolts. Thread the 4 inch bolt through where the hex bolts came from. They will pass through the rotor and end up pushing against the knuckle of the car, acting as a press to separate the bearing from the knuckle without having to hit it with a hammer!
Awesome, I'm glad you found a way. For me i gave it a tap with a hammer on the top and it fell out. I don't get snow where I live so i have no rust that will make it tough.
I noticed you had the wrong hub when I saw it. The one you had was for the Transit 350 HD with rear dual wheels. The only difference from what I understand is six lug nuts vice five. All steps are same. Thanks for the video.
@@dannylewis5428 hahaha good eye. Yes it was the wrong one. But i figured that out and got the correct one.
Yeah, I figured it all out, but the video would definitely benefit by simply showing the parts and which parts fit to which part, instead of only talking about them.
I get you may not have had a second camera man, but you could pick it up.
Like, pick up the rotor, plug in some of the bolts that go into the knuckle, then hold up the hub against the knuckle, and show that those are the bolts that go into the hub.
then do the same thing for the hub and rotor - pick up the bolts, get a close up, put a couple into the hub, then put the hub up against the rotor, showing exactly which parts, which location align with which parts.
same again for the 5 sticking out ones for the wheel.
easy, much more clear.
I replaced the wheel bearing without removing the rotor or caliper bracket.
Sweet. I'm so used to removing the entire thing on cars that I didn't even think of trying it thay way. Next time I will try and see if I can document it
Wow…. I’m speechless
Breath taking 😆
do you have a video doing the rear bearings?
I don't yet. Soon when the time comes
Hi, where can I find a front wheel bearing for my T250
Hey there. I got them from pepboys.
rockauto.com
forddiscountparts.com (but their catalog isn't too good, so always put in your VIN. and shipping is more expensive than rockauto. But they do have oem parts).
For wheel hubs, i would go with rockauto non-oem.
I got oem, but that was out of not knowing, and erring on the side of caution.
Now that i know this is an easy job, i'd go with cheaper ones.
they range from $60 to $180, so even a bad one you can get 3 times before an oem one.