I find my utility bill to be indecipherable, but 50-75% of the bill is for fixed costs such as connection fees, right of way fees, municipal fees, administration fees, and carbon taxes. That's over $1200/yr. Unfortunately, the math for switching to electric heating didn't make sense at the time unless I went solar. I've insulated and replaced the windows since then, so I'll rerun the numbers when it's time to replace my HVAC and HWT.
Well, certain things you cant logically include like the base meter charge you pay whether you use one kw of electric or a million kw'd, or one therm of gas or a million therms, here I pay $8.50 for the base meter charge. I added enough insulation in my NW Iowa attic to make it R100, replaced the old single glass windows, and added 2" deep interior walls to all the outside walls, with 1-1/2" of celotex inside, bringing the walls to about R21. Before I replaced the windows I would get ICE on the INSIDE of the glass in the kitchen where my desk is, it always felt like a cold draft and I had to have a 1500 watt space heater on behind my chair all the time. Then I read the cold glass sets up a convection current and THAT was the "draft" I felt! I replaced the 4 windows and the ice vanished, and I no longer needed the space heater, that saved $50/mo immediately. Same story in the bedroom, replaced the 2 windows, and the space heater in there at night on low went in the garbage, saved $35/mo. Replaced the rest of the windows but no idea what additional savings that brought. I installed the MI vinyl windows myself, they cost me about $175 each 10 years ago. I replaced my 30 year old Lennox Conservator II 80% 110,000 BTU gas furnace with a Goodman 80,000/ 96% gas furnace, installed it myself. The Lennox claimed 80% but with it's open 5" flue that spilled cold air down between cycles, and taking its combustion air directly from the room I bet it was no more than 65-70% I got sick of window AC's and the twice annual basement rodeo hauling it up and down the stairs so I bought a Tosot 12,000 BTU mini split last month and installed it myself- replacing the 6,000 BTU window AC in the kitchen that cooled the entire house. Right now its been used on the heat cycle. I pay about 9 cents a kwh here
If you use the economic balance point app it will tell you at what outdoor temperature it is more efficient for natural gas. For me,, 41° last I checked. This factored my cost per therm, cost per kw and the cop of a 18seer 2 stage unitary heatpump
For the Canadian people 1 GJ = 9.478 therms. I broke down my cost in Alberta Canada and my Changeover COP is 2.82, meaning my Amana S Enhanced (Daikin Fit) system is best to change over at 38F since it’s COP is 2.92 COP at 38F.
And that’s including the delivery charges? I guess that doesn’t sound far off but sounds like you have lower gas prices in your region, if prices change it may make sense to drop the heat pump changeover temp
Each unit in the manual. Some manufacturers don’t make the information available online as easily but it’s always in the performance specifications of a manual.
I've had my 9000 watts of grid tied solar since 2015. I'm in Alberta just North of Montana. We get minus 40 here. Last fall I bought a 12,000 BTU mini-split with Solar DC assist. It came with 1,320 watts of PV panels. It drove me nuts when I didn't need heating or cooling. The solar was going nowhere. So I bought an Ecoflow Delta Pro and two extra batteries. I run a full sized fridge, entertainment center and security DVR from the Delta Pro. My daily net usage went from around 12 kWh per day down to 3.6 kWh per day, this was for March. During the summer I will be able to run the heat-pump for cooling from my Ecoflow after sunset. By the way, my heat pump stops heating at minus 29C lol. Our Prime minister thinks we can heat with heat-pumps. He has no Clue what a prairie winter is like. On a day like today where the temps are hovering around the freezing point. I kept nice and toasty running the heat-pump 100% from solar.
The goal is to reduce the burning of fossil fuel for heat and heat pumps are an effective solution. If you ran a pure heat pump installation you would have heat strips or you could use a heat pump with gas backup. During the winter the number of days of -20C to -40C is usually a few weeks, maybe and what about the Chinooks. You have to start somewhere don't you? I here your Premiere is blocking renewables, lol.
4.975. So I'd need a COP of at least 5 have any chance of breaking even, but I doubt even that would do the trick, since heat pump COP ratings are calculated at relatively mild outside temperatures and get lower as outside temperatures drop. I think I'll keep my 95% efficient modulating, condensing gas boiler for a while longer. :)
At that COP you’re right! The only heat pumps that beat that right now are ground source heat pumps that have COP’s between 6-8, and don’t drop below 5 until it’s below -30F
I’ll be posting another video, sorry I got a lot of feedback that made it clear I didn’t do the best job connecting the dots. What that means is that as long as the COP of your heat pump is above that then it’s more efficient to operate a heat pump. Most heat pumps run in the 3-4 range which means that it’s basically a break even for you but depends on the system. Each heat pump has its own COP / efficiency and it depends on outdoor ambient temps (it will be more efficient when it’s warmer and less efficient when it’s colder / below 5-10F…) if you’d like to know more please let me know your outdoor low temps in the winter months in your region (or just your city/state/province etc and I can look it up) and we can determine what the actual efficiency is. For example Bosch’s 20 SEER system clocks a COP over 4, but the Daikin Fit Enhanced is around 3.4 - 3.5, and this is around the outdoor temps of 40F.
I did not hear an answer to the question you posed in the title of the video. I was expecting something along the lines of "Yes, if your electricity rates are low enough and your natural gas or propane costs are high enough." I think you alluded to that, but I'm not really sure, because you made no conclusive statements at any point in the video. Throwing both solar AND EV charging into the mix might have made sense to you, but I positively assure you that it only muddied the waters for 90% of your viewers, most of whom are now even more confused about the economics of a heat pump. That's pretty frustrating, given how simple this topic could have been, if you'd stayed on point.
@@TheHVACDopeShow - I don't have access to natural gas, so it's an absolute no-brainer - heat pumps (HVAC and hot water) have been saving me money for years. They are absolutely cheaper than propane for the furnace or a straight electric hot water heater. If I generated more from my PV array, it would lower my costs even more, but I live in a very poor location (site) for solar generation. I mostly do it as a hobby - 100% DIY.
Quick EV note: I got one because I wanted to find out for myself what was actually true and what was Oil Co BS. Well, lemme tell ya folks, $22-$26 in electricity to travel 1000 miles - the difference is summer vs winter rate where I live. Also the vehicle was cheaper than comparable gas SUV and there’s no maintenance. If you want to saves lots of money, they’re a no-brainer.
For sure, if you charge at home I did the math and my F150 is $10 to "fill up" what would have cost $60... it's the equivalence of paying .50 cents a gallon for gas, love the maintenance so far it's been great nothing but tires. Range takes a hit in the winter but is a non issue 99% of the time and still not bad on road trips IMO. Using fast chargers tho cost almost the same as pumping gas
@@TheHVACDopeShow haha, right on, it's like the best kept secret right now - just ahead of communicating inverter heat pumps 😅 I got a Chevy and charge at home 99% of the time, but whenever I've road tripped, fast charging is free at GM dealers, which is like icing on the cake.
You provide a huge amount of information in your videos. However, you speak much too quickly, you don’t transition from nor connect one topic to another very well, you overwhelm your listeners with with technical knowledge and you say “the bottom line is” when you’re nowhere near a summary. I don’t doubt you know what you are talking about but I don’t get the idea that you can impart your knowledge in a way and at a rate at which I can benefit or understand well. I’ll keep watching and maybe it will get clearer but you have some work to do on producing good videos.
You, sir, are a good communicator! The guy making these videos is very knowledgeable, but is trying to convey too much, too quickly, and not in ways that will be easily consumed by most viewers. Case in point: I am less certain about whether or not it is cheaper to operate a heat pump or natural gas furnace than I was before I watched this video.
You have to plug in your bill to the formula… I’ll make a part 2 with an actual bill so you can see how it applies. I wasn’t trying to confuse everyone but apparently that’s what the first few comments are alluding to so in part 2 I’ll try to spell it out more clearly and won’t dive into solar panels etc… it’s actually a complex topic because your COP changes based on external operating temperatures so this is why you have to use a ballpark or average numbers. Maybe with an actual bill for comparison it will be easier to understand.
@@michaelkearney7923 - So, you get even less out of it than the normal viewer? :) It's not so much that he speaks too quickly, he changes topics frequently and doesn't tie things in very well, at least in this video. In other videos he's done, he is much more on point.
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I find my utility bill to be indecipherable, but 50-75% of the bill is for fixed costs such as connection fees, right of way fees, municipal fees, administration fees, and carbon taxes. That's over $1200/yr.
Unfortunately, the math for switching to electric heating didn't make sense at the time unless I went solar. I've insulated and replaced the windows since then, so I'll rerun the numbers when it's time to replace my HVAC and HWT.
You’re not alone the utility bills can be very confusing
Well, certain things you cant logically include like the base meter charge you pay whether you use one kw of electric or a million kw'd, or one therm of gas or a million therms, here I pay $8.50 for the base meter charge.
I added enough insulation in my NW Iowa attic to make it R100, replaced the old single glass windows, and added 2" deep interior walls to all the outside walls, with 1-1/2" of celotex inside, bringing the walls to about R21.
Before I replaced the windows I would get ICE on the INSIDE of the glass in the kitchen where my desk is, it always felt like a cold draft and I had to have a 1500 watt space heater on behind my chair all the time.
Then I read the cold glass sets up a convection current and THAT was the "draft" I felt! I replaced the 4 windows and the ice vanished, and I no longer needed the space heater, that saved $50/mo immediately.
Same story in the bedroom, replaced the 2 windows, and the space heater in there at night on low went in the garbage, saved $35/mo. Replaced the rest of the windows but no idea what additional savings that brought.
I installed the MI vinyl windows myself, they cost me about $175 each 10 years ago.
I replaced my 30 year old Lennox Conservator II 80% 110,000 BTU gas furnace with a Goodman 80,000/ 96% gas furnace, installed it myself.
The Lennox claimed 80% but with it's open 5" flue that spilled cold air down between cycles, and taking its combustion air directly from the room I bet it was no more than 65-70%
I got sick of window AC's and the twice annual basement rodeo hauling it up and down the stairs so I bought a Tosot 12,000 BTU mini split last month and installed it myself- replacing the 6,000 BTU window AC in the kitchen that cooled the entire house.
Right now its been used on the heat cycle.
I pay about 9 cents a kwh here
If you use the economic balance point app it will tell you at what outdoor temperature it is more efficient for natural gas. For me,, 41° last I checked. This factored my cost per therm, cost per kw and the cop of a 18seer 2 stage unitary heatpump
Right on, thanks for sharing!
For the Canadian people 1 GJ = 9.478 therms.
I broke down my cost in Alberta Canada and my Changeover COP is 2.82, meaning my Amana S Enhanced (Daikin Fit) system is best to change over at 38F since it’s COP is 2.92 COP at 38F.
And that’s including the delivery charges? I guess that doesn’t sound far off but sounds like you have lower gas prices in your region, if prices change it may make sense to drop the heat pump changeover temp
therms/GJ varies depending on the conversion factor. Last bill mine was 8.976 therms/GJ.
How do I know what the COP of a heat pump is? I can't find that statistic anywhere.
Each unit in the manual. Some manufacturers don’t make the information available online as easily but it’s always in the performance specifications of a manual.
I've had my 9000 watts of grid tied solar since 2015. I'm in Alberta just North of Montana. We get minus 40 here. Last fall I bought a 12,000 BTU mini-split with Solar DC assist. It came with 1,320 watts of PV panels. It drove me nuts when I didn't need heating or cooling. The solar was going nowhere. So I bought an Ecoflow Delta Pro and two extra batteries. I run a full sized fridge, entertainment center and security DVR from the Delta Pro. My daily net usage went from around 12 kWh per day down to 3.6 kWh per day, this was for March. During the summer I will be able to run the heat-pump for cooling from my Ecoflow after sunset. By the way, my heat pump stops heating at minus 29C lol. Our Prime minister thinks we can heat with heat-pumps. He has no Clue what a prairie winter is like. On a day like today where the temps are hovering around the freezing point. I kept nice and toasty running the heat-pump 100% from solar.
That’s awesome, sounds like a nice setup!!
The goal is to reduce the burning of fossil fuel for heat and heat pumps are an effective solution. If you ran a pure heat pump installation you would have heat strips or you could use a heat pump with gas backup. During the winter the number of days of -20C to -40C is usually a few weeks, maybe and what about the Chinooks. You have to start somewhere don't you? I here your Premiere is blocking renewables, lol.
4.975. So I'd need a COP of at least 5 have any chance of breaking even, but I doubt even that would do the trick, since heat pump COP ratings are calculated at relatively mild outside temperatures and get lower as outside temperatures drop.
I think I'll keep my 95% efficient modulating, condensing gas boiler for a while longer. :)
At that COP you’re right! The only heat pumps that beat that right now are ground source heat pumps that have COP’s between 6-8, and don’t drop below 5 until it’s below -30F
@@TheHVACDopeShow That's how it is done in Sweden.
Used the formula, came up with 3.4471. What the heck does that mean? You didn’t explain.
I’ll be posting another video, sorry I got a lot of feedback that made it clear I didn’t do the best job connecting the dots. What that means is that as long as the COP of your heat pump is above that then it’s more efficient to operate a heat pump. Most heat pumps run in the 3-4 range which means that it’s basically a break even for you but depends on the system. Each heat pump has its own COP / efficiency and it depends on outdoor ambient temps (it will be more efficient when it’s warmer and less efficient when it’s colder / below 5-10F…) if you’d like to know more please let me know your outdoor low temps in the winter months in your region (or just your city/state/province etc and I can look it up) and we can determine what the actual efficiency is. For example Bosch’s 20 SEER system clocks a COP over 4, but the Daikin Fit Enhanced is around 3.4 - 3.5, and this is around the outdoor temps of 40F.
I did not hear an answer to the question you posed in the title of the video. I was expecting something along the lines of "Yes, if your electricity rates are low enough and your natural gas or propane costs are high enough." I think you alluded to that, but I'm not really sure, because you made no conclusive statements at any point in the video. Throwing both solar AND EV charging into the mix might have made sense to you, but I positively assure you that it only muddied the waters for 90% of your viewers, most of whom are now even more confused about the economics of a heat pump. That's pretty frustrating, given how simple this topic could have been, if you'd stayed on point.
Did you apply the formula to your electric / heating bill? It will vary depending on your rates
@@TheHVACDopeShow - I don't have access to natural gas, so it's an absolute no-brainer - heat pumps (HVAC and hot water) have been saving me money for years. They are absolutely cheaper than propane for the furnace or a straight electric hot water heater. If I generated more from my PV array, it would lower my costs even more, but I live in a very poor location (site) for solar generation. I mostly do it as a hobby - 100% DIY.
Quick EV note: I got one because I wanted to find out for myself what was actually true and what was Oil Co BS. Well, lemme tell ya folks, $22-$26 in electricity to travel 1000 miles - the difference is summer vs winter rate where I live. Also the vehicle was cheaper than comparable gas SUV and there’s no maintenance. If you want to saves lots of money, they’re a no-brainer.
For sure, if you charge at home I did the math and my F150 is $10 to "fill up" what would have cost $60... it's the equivalence of paying .50 cents a gallon for gas, love the maintenance so far it's been great nothing but tires. Range takes a hit in the winter but is a non issue 99% of the time and still not bad on road trips IMO. Using fast chargers tho cost almost the same as pumping gas
@@TheHVACDopeShow haha, right on, it's like the best kept secret right now - just ahead of communicating inverter heat pumps 😅 I got a Chevy and charge at home 99% of the time, but whenever I've road tripped, fast charging is free at GM dealers, which is like icing on the cake.
No Dope! Drugs Kill!
You provide a huge amount of information in your videos. However, you speak much too quickly, you don’t transition from nor connect one topic to another very well, you overwhelm your listeners with with technical knowledge and you say “the bottom line is” when you’re nowhere near a summary. I don’t doubt you know what you are talking about but I don’t get the idea that you can impart your knowledge in a way and at a rate at which I can benefit or understand well. I’ll keep watching and maybe it will get clearer but you have some work to do on producing good videos.
You, sir, are a good communicator! The guy making these videos is very knowledgeable, but is trying to convey too much, too quickly, and not in ways that will be easily consumed by most viewers. Case in point: I am less certain about whether or not it is cheaper to operate a heat pump or natural gas furnace than I was before I watched this video.
You have to plug in your bill to the formula… I’ll make a part 2 with an actual bill so you can see how it applies. I wasn’t trying to confuse everyone but apparently that’s what the first few comments are alluding to so in part 2 I’ll try to spell it out more clearly and won’t dive into solar panels etc… it’s actually a complex topic because your COP changes based on external operating temperatures so this is why you have to use a ballpark or average numbers. Maybe with an actual bill for comparison it will be easier to understand.
Ha. I listen to the video at 1.5x speed.
@@michaelkearney7923 - So, you get even less out of it than the normal viewer? :) It's not so much that he speaks too quickly, he changes topics frequently and doesn't tie things in very well, at least in this video. In other videos he's done, he is much more on point.
@@jasonbroom7147 Or, I’m a member of Mensa, the high IQ society and understand just fine.
A lot of noise but no clear cut information; make it too complicated with too much info at once.
Did you apply the formula to your bill? That’s the main point of the video