Suggestion: Before you start cutting a major building like a house or barn start by laying out and cutting a frame for an overbuilt tool shed. Make this frame out of the same size wood and use all the joints used on the main frame. This building is for practise so making mistakes is expected. The difference is you can either make up for the mistake or throw away a 7 ft 10 1/2 in timber not 24 ft timber. You will also learn just how difficult this is and how much time it takes. You may also decide that it is too much effort and have it built by someone else. At least you will have a very strong shed. OH - Start with new or freshly sharpened saws and chisles. A framing hatchet, a small ax with one sided bevel, like a chisel, can be handy.
I built space for my goats using your timberframe videos as a guide. But I have been incorporating timber framing techniques in most of my woodworking. Great video, keep them coming!
I like building stuff happened by chance to see timber framing and thought it looked simple enough but as always things can get complex with a bigger build and more planning
I'm another Canadian eh! Jim thanks for sharing your skill "guy". You should call the "big al", the "big guy". Lol Your vocabulary is really easy to understand. No confusion. Some of us guys do. Some of us guys have much to much time on our hands. To much time leads to thinking " I should guy d someone's way of speaking". I'll stop now. Lol Seriously thanks for your channel.
Did you know that “the rule of thumb” come from an old tradition, (no longer practised) where a man was allowed to beat his wife with a stick for breaking certain rules. The stick was allowed to be no thicker than the mans thumb, hence “rule of thumb”. Obviously not the healthiest of situations but that’s where it comes from.
Just seeing your comment. I hope this helps. I did a 250+ video series on building my shop. There's some good information in that series. I'll be building another one soon.
Thanks Jim, very informative on making the tenon. I do like that lovely framing tool. Looking forward on what it does. The whole framing idea is wonderful and I’m really looking forward to seeing it again. Take care Jim, be safe and see you soon. Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
I have literally watched so many timber frame tutorials, yours my friend has been an absolute delight, explaining as you show the process as you go along. Now I am actually taking it in. Thank you. I am a UK citizen and I have searched for the borneman layout template, unfortunately with no luck as Britain don't have the timber frame construction that America has. You have many trees so America is set up for that type of build, and of course the tools the borneman layout template. I have found someone here close to me that is advertising the podger and pricker and have requested for them by email but has not responded.
I'm glad it's a help. I have a long timber framing series called A Timber Framing Vlog that is packed with tutorials. It's a shame the Timber framing isn't as big in the UK, your country has a very storied Timber framing tradition.
@@TheTradesmanChannel yes thats right very traditional heritage timber framed buildings centuries old. But its not a custom no longer so we are behind on that tradition. It's a shame how modernisation eradicates skilled craftsmen. I am trying so difficultly to get my hands on a borneman layout template, and I bet they are plentiful in the US
Hi Jim. Been lurking but been a while since I commented - too busy with the payed job! As you said, there are as many ways to cut tenons (and mortices) as there are woodworkers, but I figured I'd offer another tip that helped me improve my tenon cutting alot. When roughing the tenon out, I leave a little more meat proud of the cheek layout line - about 1/16". Then use a plane or chisel to cut a bevel on the corners down to the layout score. Then I use a hand plane cross grain to plane the cheeks until the bevels are just gone, which puts you right dead on the layout line. Then use the slick riding flat on the cheek face to cut back the remaining material into the shoulder corner. But like you said - use the techniques that work best for you! Cheers my friend, glad to see some more timber framing!
Hi Jim, Oh yea back to the tenons. Great job buddy waiting for the mortises. As always God bless and take care. Great tool J.R. makes! I seen others use it.
Good morning Mr Jim. Glad to see you with a chisel in your hand again. Got to say I was a little jealous when I seen your big beam saw sometime ago. Lol. Little Eddie my Mikita 16 5/16" just stopped. NOW I got a real dilemma rebuild it or go skill. Have a great day looking forward to the cooler weather and shop time.
Principal Rafters and Common purlins are fun, in that I get to use full length sticks often spanning the length of the building. and avoiding the thrust of the common rafter, but still thrusting at the foot of the principal rafters which need to be addressed with proper joinery. To fully avoid all thrust I put in a structurally supported ridge beam and common rafters. You are using edge square rule, square rule can also be based off snapped lines, hence snapped line square rule. Jim, do you use a Go-No Go gauge to test your tenons? I fiddled with a couple old squares and came up with a go no go gauge, its tested on all tenons for fatness and is sized to match my Mafell morticing machine. its just a bit more insurance for easy fits on raising day. or even when things are test fit in the shop. Do you see more views on your timber framing videos compared to the other stuff? The Big Al square is indispensable, its a must have item. Great series, I hope to follow along.
Love the channel, enjoy the work you do, timber framing work is what's always interested me in woodworking from way back when I was just a small kid and watching Roy Underhill on the tv. I'm one of those more of "traditionalist" style or type of person, the Chinese/Japanese style of woodworking, even the old Colonial style. Don't mind using the power tools, in face I do use them but, there's just something about just building with hand tools. Keep a good coping saw at hand as well, it helps with wood removal in tight area's, also helps eliminate errors like the one you almost made with your chisel. Great video, looking forward to seeing more. Cheers :)
Jim you’re way too critical about the last series which I enjoyed thoroughly. I just found these I must admit I stopped listening when you got away from timber framing and more into other topics. But now I’m back and looking forward to seeing more of these great videos. Thanks
Hi Jim; Wonderful Work. I am finding the design work very involved. I also think it would make things very easy if you use a shop drawing for each element. You get to focus on the cutting and chisel work instead of struggling with dims. What was your floor joist spacing? What was the thickness of your floor boards? I am looking for info on understanding the deflection of the floor. It’s not a usual beam problem as each portion of floor is framed with two tie beam Girts and two floor joists. The decking is held by a standard fastener schedule making this some form of diaphragm. Not a standard shear diaphram like a wall. The IRC is useless as it covers only 3/4 ply. This problem shows up twice. The initial roof decking is often 2x6 T&G. Often so is the floor decking. The trib area is often huge. So the challenge is to to establish the maximum allowable deflection at the center of these trib areas. I guess you could just treat each sub span of decking as a simple uniform loaded beam and assume the effects of the joint as neglible. Your thoughts?
The load calc phase, always fun. My floor joists are 5x8, 2' centers leaving an open area of around 18" per joist space. I'm still working on the 1x10 sub floor and it is plenty strong for shop tools. The plan is to run another layer of planed down 1x10 planks for the finished floor. I'm moving the woodshop to the first floor as it is a logistical nightmare for large cabinet projects. My second floor is designed to hold 80 pounds per square foot.
@@TheTradesmanChannel LOL I am stuck here! My shop space is a nightmare. Snow load is set at 140 psf. My woodworking machines are mostly old cast iron monsters. One of my table saws is identical to the one used in engles coachwork. Great channel by the way. Metalworking is on the first floor which is concrete. The overall 60 PSF will hold the 36,000 pounds of machines but it’s the point loads that will get you. We sawed up a bunch of beetle kill ponderosa and milled it T&G for a new hay loft floor on a 200 year old barn. Damn that floor was beautiful!
I once spend forever and a day to include some timber in a frame that were cricket in any way you could imagine. Bowed, twisted, not a single edge was square. Most of the cuts I did with handtools or I came up with some jigs, because there was no face on those beams I could use as a bearing surface for a skill saw or a router. I know that stuff about lining a timber and creating a virtual workpiece with level and snap line, but I would love to see more about that in detail if possible in this series.
Hey Jim, Thanks for doing these videos, there is a lot of great info at your channel as well as entertainment. You have put a lot of work into your channel and it shows. I have square rule / layout question though. When laying out a tenon on each end of the timber / beam, how do you insure they are parallel each other so your posts are plumb. Thanks, Mike Demizio
I'm a fairly decent furniture builder and woodworker, but I know absolutely nothing about timber framing and am excited to learn as much as I can from you here. I am milling and drying my own logs with the hope to start timber-framing some structures myself. MY question is are you using dry lumber or can it be green? If it is dry, what is your process and how dry does it need to be? Thank you so much for doing this, I'm really glad I discovered your channel and am looking forward to seeing more and learning more.
Hi friend, what blade is recommended for cutting back waste on the end beams for your tenon? Would it be a rip blade. Always watching over your videos they are brilliant and you explain wonderfully the process or best practices. Would love to see this in real but heyho, uk based is a no no. I have also tried every angle to get hold of the big Al, impossible I'm wondering if I can try my luck for kindly asking for your help to get one over to me. I know it's a cheeky ask but, if you don't ask you won't know. Regards Vince
Hi, thanks for the videos, I plan on watching all of them. I've looked at all your links but I cannot find the link to the Tenon Square. Could you please provide, I would like to get one. I subscribed and liked and look forward to all the videos.🇨🇦🤜🏻🤛🏻🇺🇸
Thank you I don't know if I will ever do any timber framing. But it fascinates me. I would like try. I would like to learn the rules of what size timbers, tennons, pegs spans etc. Thank you again for your information.
Hi again Jim, hope all is well. I have just completed 12 braces thanks to your channel. We had fresh Douglas fir lumber delivered around 3 months ago we have layed the bottom sills, and now braces are done. Why and is it OK that the braces have now split pretty much all off them and the lumber on the work horses have all now got splits running right through them. Can they be safe to use and why has this happened so quickly. I have tried to find videos on this matter but no success. Maybe you should do a new video on this. Cheers mate
The cracking is normal, hopefully the heartwood is centered in your timbers. Best thing to do is to keep your timbers out of direct sunlight as best as possible while you cut your joinery. The other thing you can do is to seal up the end grain with paint or wax, this will slow the cracking down. Don't worry, though, cracking is part of the deal.
Nice Tenon Jim, I am starting a new one too. Wish I could show you my plan for comments. It is just in the preliminary design stage but moving along. Gary
Anything wrong with using a good electric chainsaw for the less precise deeper cuts? Could pretty easily fabricate a clamp on guard to prevent over cut.
Yesterday I cut some 8 by 8s for a fellows restoration project. He supplyed the logs they were black locust. It didn't cut bad at all being green. He has never done joinery before but he has a book on it. This impresses me as a tough way to learn. I hope he gets through it and I may have to help. Hope it doesn't turn into a "Tar Baby" but he seems to be willing to pay for my time so wee'll see. I gave him a master class on how to use a chisel so you can guess where he is at in his stage of development.
I'll be building a Sugar Shack this winter as well. It will be my second timber frame...Jim's channel provided the much needed guidance to help me through my first build. Enjoy!!!!
4:05 I understand about the rafters always wanting to push outwards on the top plates, then the ridge or ridge beam will form a droop and your walls will bow outwards near the top. Isn't (part of) the answer to use purlins? That's what their purpose is, right? They transfer more of the load of the roof off the wall and onto the gable end walls. Love the videos :)
Perkins help to tie the rafters together from gable end to gable end but they do not help against raster thrust. Collar ties help with rafters thrust but they only work close to your wall top plates. That's where the beam joinery comes into play. A big through tenon pegged properly and designed for the load does the brunt of the work fighting rafter thrust.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thanks for the reply. I think I meant to say that the purlins supplement the collar ties to keep the top plates from spreading. Just thinking of old log cabin roof truss design. Many times they used very large purlins. I wish I had time to watch more videos. I want to build a 24'x36' two story timber frame home with 12/12 pitch roof, queen posts rafters/purlins, full basement, then wrap it with an 1850s hand hewn dovetail log cabin, using 8'' thick x11'' tall wall logs (rounded on top and bottom) and 2 inch chink gap. Then after they air dry and settle (3 years), connect the log walls to the timber frame, strong. :) Any thoughts?
Although a perfect tenon can be made on either end if the edges of the two tenons on either end are not parallel it will be wrong because of bows, twist, warp ect. which you did hint at unless you have angled tenons or something like that.
Hi Jim. Glad to see the timber framing stuff. On the "reduction": That is a great method. Is that an effort to make ALL the timbers equal at the joints even if they may not all be exactly the same width, they will be by doing the reductions to a standard for ALL the timbers of that class?
I want to build my own timber frame house some day. I was thinking about maybe building walls out of a new hempcrete block system called Just Biofiber and doing all of the horizontals timber framed. Have you seen anything similar to this being done? How do you join masonry to large timbers? Would I need to hire someone to do it?
Traditionally it would have been done with wattle and daub but there isn't much insulation value to be had. I'll have to look into it, I'm not quite sure to be honest.
many thanks jim;; detailed and instructive for us newbies and wanabies :) by the way jim, remember those circular saws sent to you from the uk? i remember you saying you would use, and update about their quality .... do you have a link to the video?
Where did you get the box square??? I have never seen one, it looks great and really handy for timber framing. I am thinking of building a timber frame tool shed. I know no big thing but I have to start somewhere.
Nice vid Jim, you have a great teaching style which is easy to follow. This is going to be a great series. Hope you have the stamina to keep it going. I was thinking back to when I learnt scribe rule, which has much in common, apart from the reductions. I love square rule now, which was a breath of fresh air after scribing everything! Anyway, I learnt that here (and I think European timber framing generally), there is a strong association of flushing up faces in beams of a frame (or bent in your parlance) that are adjacent to a principal room. It's fascinating, and you can see it has been practiced in medieval barns from the 1200's where the threshing bay has flushed up faces, right up to when carpenters were framing domestic house living rooms. Do you have that as 'a thing' in US timber framing? I know we all flush the exterior faces so we can clad square, but this idea of ensuring a principal room has flushed up faces really had me amazed (especially since we have examples left here from approaching 800 years ago... Anyway, looking forward to seeing the rest of this series. Hope it goes super well. Cheers, Nigel
@@TheTradesmanChannel Hey Jim! That's kind of you to take the time to respond, it's really nice to hear from you. If you really do, and can find the time to come over to Europe, my friend Joe Thompson is the master of scribe rule in the UK. He teaches a three-part course at 'The Weald and Downland Living Museum' in the South of England. Each part is a week, and covers wall framing, roof framing and 'jowl post' framing (nobody does the latter in this country these days, but this is the course where you get to knock out the amazing three-dimensional lap-dovetail tiebeam joint [or English Joint as Steve Chappel has it]). If Mrs Tradesmanchannel will give you the time off, I would heartily recommend it. I did all my timber framing scribe rule training under Joe, and the MSc in Timber Building Conservation there too. I just wish I had the time to practice, but just keep on being hauled back into other stuff. Anyway, take good care. Keep an eye out for that stair well, and stay safe! Have a great day. Cheers, Nigel
It's a matter of preference and tool availability for most. I have cut tenons just about anyway you can think, right down to hatchets and axes. Sometimes I'll put big timbers on my sawmill and cut the tenons that way, I've used my chainsaw mill many times as well. What I'm saying is that there are many ways to achieve the same outcome and if it comes out right, then you're not wrong.
The cut that you’re making at 16 and and 30 seconds what is the purpose of this cut? Why not just keep it square all the way around can you explain this to me please?
Great video, at 21:15 you mentioned putting the email of Jim Rodgers to obtain that handy tool. What is the email, or how can we go about obtaining the tool?
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thanks ill check it out do you go into span calculations? I'm hoping to be able to design whatever (within its limitations) and know its structurally sound.
@@TheTradesmanChannel no need for a comeback, I'm watching your videos not you watching mine. That means you win right? 😁 Awesome video anyway, I will now get back to building my crocked spice rack 😂
Constructive criticism: Good idea to demo the how-to of TF, but I think you would need to stick with it and not jump around with many who knows video topics. Lastly, you seem to know what you want to say but find it harder to explain it (practice).
I understand what you're saying but I do what I can at the time. As for finding the proper words, it's a helluva lot harder than it looks to speak fluently looking at a camera than it looks.
Are you serious? I speak how I speak, if I call something "guy" that is just how I speak. I cannot believe the level of uptight that this world is putting forth these days.
Loving the channel Jim. It’s unfortunate that people feel the need to critique others work even after all the obvious time and effort they put into it. I for one have learned so much from you and for that i thank you.
Suggestion: Before you start cutting a major building like a house or barn start by laying out and cutting a frame for an overbuilt tool shed. Make this frame out of the same size wood and use all the joints used on the main frame. This building is for practise so making mistakes is expected. The difference is you can either make up for the mistake or throw away a 7 ft 10 1/2 in timber not 24 ft timber.
You will also learn just how difficult this is and how much time it takes. You may also decide that it is too much effort and have it built by someone else. At least you will have a very strong shed.
OH - Start with new or freshly sharpened saws and chisles. A framing hatchet, a small ax with one sided bevel, like a chisel, can be handy.
Excellent advice and we'll worth mentioning.
I’m a really good residential carpenter but man I wish I could have the opportunity to learn and do this stuff too
don't under estimate the difficulty of those drop cuts, this guy is pro!
Perfect timing to get me motivated for another winter timber framing project.
I built space for my goats using your timberframe videos as a guide. But I have been incorporating timber framing techniques in most of my woodworking. Great video, keep them coming!
I love timber framing, I'm happy to hear they've been helpful.
I like building stuff happened by chance to see timber framing and thought it looked simple enough but as always things can get complex with a bigger build and more planning
I'm another Canadian eh! Jim thanks for sharing your skill "guy". You should call the "big al", the "big guy". Lol
Your vocabulary is really easy to understand. No confusion.
Some of us guys do. Some of us guys have much to much time on our hands. To much time leads to thinking " I should guy d someone's way of speaking".
I'll stop now. Lol
Seriously thanks for your channel.
Must be you read the comment from the nutsack who doesn't like the use of the word "guy". Next time I'll just say "this tenon identifies as a male".
@@TheTradesmanChannel lol
Good morning Jim. You can really see your passion for Timber Framing while watching this video. Great job. 👍👍👍
I love timber work
Jim, love this stuff. Glad you are revisiting this. Refreshing the old noggin is always good !!!!!
It sure is
Good morning Jim! Have a great week.
You too buddy
Morning Jim... I can remember you doing this while you were dressed like an Eskimo during a blizzard! Much nicer now!
So much nicer now John
It’s now Inuit, the Eskimo thing went out when Al Gore shot the last polar bear. 😂
Thanks Jim. Great as always. After this batch of tutorial videos I might actually be brave enough to try and cut one.
Hey ya Jim I wondered what happened to you after your fall so glad you’re back at it, I’m sure I’m saying this for others glad to have you back👍
Hello Edgar, how've you been? Doing well here.
Thanks for sharing your special set of skills👌🙏
Great series!!! So glad you have started this. Love learning the rule of thumb.
Good morning, I'm used to seeing you on the Instagram.
Did you know that “the rule of thumb” come from an old tradition, (no longer practised) where a man was allowed to beat his wife with a stick for breaking certain rules. The stick was allowed to be no thicker than the mans thumb, hence “rule of thumb”.
Obviously not the healthiest of situations but that’s where it comes from.
Sorry, I should’ve listened a little longer. Your video did explain it. You have a new subscriber.
Just seeing your comment. I hope this helps. I did a 250+ video series on building my shop. There's some good information in that series. I'll be building another one soon.
Good morning Jim, from Canada. We love timber frame.
Thank you
I know nothing about timber framing, but am looking forward to the series. Learned about a new tool, and a new word, arris (had to look it up).
Timber framing is an addiction
Thanks Jim, very informative on making the tenon. I do like that lovely framing tool. Looking forward on what it does. The whole framing idea is wonderful and I’m really looking forward to seeing it again. Take care Jim, be safe and see you soon. Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
I get up early to watch your videos. I just keep learning.
I have literally watched so many timber frame tutorials, yours my friend has been an absolute delight, explaining as you show the process as you go along. Now I am actually taking it in. Thank you.
I am a UK citizen and I have searched for the borneman layout template, unfortunately with no luck as Britain don't have the timber frame construction that America has. You have many trees so America is set up for that type of build, and of course the tools the borneman layout template. I have found someone here close to me that is advertising the podger and pricker and have requested for them by email but has not responded.
I'm glad it's a help. I have a long timber framing series called A Timber Framing Vlog that is packed with tutorials. It's a shame the Timber framing isn't as big in the UK, your country has a very storied Timber framing tradition.
@@TheTradesmanChannel yes thats right very traditional heritage timber framed buildings centuries old. But its not a custom no longer so we are behind on that tradition. It's a shame how modernisation eradicates skilled craftsmen. I am trying so difficultly to get my hands on a borneman layout template, and I bet they are plentiful in the US
There's not many over here either. You can make one out of plywood.
Hi Jim. Been lurking but been a while since I commented - too busy with the payed job! As you said, there are as many ways to cut tenons (and mortices) as there are woodworkers, but I figured I'd offer another tip that helped me improve my tenon cutting alot. When roughing the tenon out, I leave a little more meat proud of the cheek layout line - about 1/16". Then use a plane or chisel to cut a bevel on the corners down to the layout score. Then I use a hand plane cross grain to plane the cheeks until the bevels are just gone, which puts you right dead on the layout line. Then use the slick riding flat on the cheek face to cut back the remaining material into the shoulder corner. But like you said - use the techniques that work best for you! Cheers my friend, glad to see some more timber framing!
Chris, it is great to see you again.
Thank you Mr. Jim sorry i haven't been around i miss the channel always a pleasure .
It's always good to hear you
Hi Jim, Oh yea back to the tenons. Great job buddy waiting for the mortises. As always God bless and take care. Great tool J.R. makes! I seen others use it.
Hello Elliot
First of your videos I've been able to find in a long time. I was really pleased to see it.
I was wondering if you were ok.
@@TheTradesmanChannel TH-cam is REALLY screwing with notifications. I thought maybe you weren't doing them right now because of farm work.
Excellent work. You are a master with the circular saws.
Thank you sir, just lots of practice.
Good morning Mr Jim. Glad to see you with a chisel in your hand again. Got to say I was a little jealous when I seen your big beam saw sometime ago. Lol. Little Eddie my Mikita 16 5/16" just stopped. NOW I got a real dilemma rebuild it or go skill. Have a great day looking forward to the cooler weather and shop time.
Could just be $12 set of motor brushes.
Principal Rafters and Common purlins are fun, in that I get to use full length sticks often spanning the length of the building. and avoiding the thrust of the common rafter, but still thrusting at the foot of the principal rafters which need to be addressed with proper joinery. To fully avoid all thrust I put in a structurally supported ridge beam and common rafters. You are using edge square rule, square rule can also be based off snapped lines, hence snapped line square rule. Jim, do you use a Go-No Go gauge to test your tenons? I fiddled with a couple old squares and came up with a go no go gauge, its tested on all tenons for fatness and is sized to match my Mafell morticing machine. its just a bit more insurance for easy fits on raising day. or even when things are test fit in the shop. Do you see more views on your timber framing videos compared to the other stuff? The Big Al square is indispensable, its a must have item. Great series, I hope to follow along.
Love the channel, enjoy the work you do, timber framing work is what's always interested me in woodworking from way back when I was just a small kid and watching Roy Underhill on the tv. I'm one of those more of "traditionalist" style or type of person, the Chinese/Japanese style of woodworking, even the old Colonial style. Don't mind using the power tools, in face I do use them but, there's just something about just building with hand tools. Keep a good coping saw at hand as well, it helps with wood removal in tight area's, also helps eliminate errors like the one you almost made with your chisel. Great video, looking forward to seeing more. Cheers :)
I've always been a fan of Roy, I grew up watching him as well.
Jim you’re way too critical about the last series which I enjoyed thoroughly. I just found these I must admit I stopped listening when you got away from timber framing and more into other topics. But now I’m back and looking forward to seeing more of these great videos. Thanks
Hi Jim;
Wonderful Work. I am finding the design work very involved. I also think it would make things very easy if you use a shop drawing for each element. You get to focus on the cutting and chisel work instead of struggling with dims.
What was your floor joist spacing? What was the thickness of your floor boards? I am looking for info on understanding the deflection of the floor. It’s not a usual beam problem as each portion of floor is framed with two tie beam Girts and two floor joists. The decking is held by a standard fastener schedule making this some form of diaphragm. Not a standard shear diaphram like a wall. The IRC is useless as it covers only 3/4 ply.
This problem shows up twice. The initial roof decking is often 2x6 T&G. Often so is the floor decking. The trib area is often huge.
So the challenge is to to establish the maximum allowable deflection at the center of these trib areas.
I guess you could just treat each sub span of decking as a simple uniform loaded beam and assume the effects of the joint as neglible.
Your thoughts?
The load calc phase, always fun. My floor joists are 5x8, 2' centers leaving an open area of around 18" per joist space. I'm still working on the 1x10 sub floor and it is plenty strong for shop tools. The plan is to run another layer of planed down 1x10 planks for the finished floor. I'm moving the woodshop to the first floor as it is a logistical nightmare for large cabinet projects. My second floor is designed to hold 80 pounds per square foot.
@@TheTradesmanChannel LOL
I am stuck here! My shop space is a nightmare. Snow load is set at 140 psf. My woodworking machines are mostly old cast iron monsters. One of my table saws is identical to the one used in engles coachwork. Great channel by the way. Metalworking is on the first floor which is concrete. The overall 60 PSF will hold the 36,000 pounds of machines but it’s the point loads that will get you. We sawed up a bunch of beetle kill ponderosa and milled it T&G for a new hay loft floor on a 200 year old barn. Damn that floor was beautiful!
Great information for us rookies! Thank you for taking the time.
Thank you for watching.
I once spend forever and a day to include some timber in a frame that were cricket in any way you could imagine. Bowed, twisted, not a single edge was square. Most of the cuts I did with handtools or I came up with some jigs, because there was no face on those beams I could use as a bearing surface for a skill saw or a router. I know that stuff about lining a timber and creating a virtual workpiece with level and snap line, but I would love to see more about that in detail if possible in this series.
I will cover snap line layout.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thank you, Sir!
Hey Jim,
Thanks for doing these videos, there is a lot of great info at your channel as well as entertainment. You have put a lot of work into your channel and it shows. I have square rule / layout question though. When laying out a tenon on each end of the timber / beam, how do you insure they are parallel each other so your posts are plumb.
Thanks,
Mike Demizio
Wow! Great educational video today. Appreciate all the great information. Thanks & God bless.
Thank you
I'm a fairly decent furniture builder and woodworker, but I know absolutely nothing about timber framing and am excited to learn as much as I can from you here. I am milling and drying my own logs with the hope to start timber-framing some structures myself. MY question is are you using dry lumber or can it be green? If it is dry, what is your process and how dry does it need to be? Thank you so much for doing this, I'm really glad I discovered your channel and am looking forward to seeing more and learning more.
Best to build green. It takes an inch per year for wood to air dry. The green timbers will shrink together once they're assembled.
Hi friend, what blade is recommended for cutting back waste on the end beams for your tenon? Would it be a rip blade. Always watching over your videos they are brilliant and you explain wonderfully the process or best practices. Would love to see this in real but heyho, uk based is a no no.
I have also tried every angle to get hold of the big Al, impossible I'm wondering if I can try my luck for kindly asking for your help to get one over to me. I know it's a cheeky ask but, if you don't ask you won't know.
Regards Vince
Enjoyed the video, makes you appreciate the old way of framing. Lots of hard work! Have good one my friend!
The work is its own reward.
Thanks for the refresher course Jim that slick is such a beautiful tool have a good one also 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
It is a great tool
Hi, thanks for the videos, I plan on watching all of them. I've looked at all your links but I cannot find the link to the Tenon Square. Could you please provide, I would like to get one. I subscribed and liked and look forward to all the videos.🇨🇦🤜🏻🤛🏻🇺🇸
Thanks Jim
They no longer sell that tool, I hear. Great info! Thank you.
Merry Christmas sir
@@TheTradesmanChannel thank you. You do the same!
Thanks for the info, what kind of pine is that?
Thank you
I don't know if I will ever do any timber framing. But it fascinates me. I would like try. I would like to learn the rules of what size timbers, tennons, pegs spans etc. Thank you again for your information.
I'll be covering it as best as I can.
Hi again Jim, hope all is well.
I have just completed 12 braces thanks to your channel.
We had fresh Douglas fir lumber delivered around 3 months ago we have layed the bottom sills, and now braces are done. Why and is it OK that the braces have now split pretty much all off them and the lumber on the work horses have all now got splits running right through them. Can they be safe to use and why has this happened so quickly. I have tried to find videos on this matter but no success. Maybe you should do a new video on this. Cheers mate
The cracking is normal, hopefully the heartwood is centered in your timbers. Best thing to do is to keep your timbers out of direct sunlight as best as possible while you cut your joinery. The other thing you can do is to seal up the end grain with paint or wax, this will slow the cracking down. Don't worry, though, cracking is part of the deal.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thanks Jim 😊
I love chisel work.
As do I
Looking forward to seeing more of this.
There will be quite a bit coming up.
Awesome man!! Would enjoy building either a timber frame cabin or shed
It's worth it
Hi Jim enjoy watching your video and I'm getting ready to start making a big shed. Where can I get one of those big tenion guides for layouts?
Look up Jim Rogers on TheForestryForum.com
good video Jim,
Thanks buddy
Thank You Jim!
Hey buddy
Nice Tenon Jim, I am starting a new one too. Wish I could show you my plan for comments. It is just in the preliminary design stage but moving along. Gary
I'm planning myself.
Nice demo. Good video. Looking forward to more of these types of vids 👍
Hopefully I can do one of these a week.
Anything wrong with using a good electric chainsaw for the less precise deeper cuts? Could pretty easily fabricate a clamp on guard to prevent over cut.
Yesterday I cut some 8 by 8s for a fellows restoration project. He supplyed the logs they were black locust. It didn't cut bad at all being green. He has never done joinery before but he has a book on it. This impresses me as a tough way to learn. I hope he gets through it and I may have to help. Hope it doesn't turn into a "Tar Baby" but he seems to be willing to pay for my time so wee'll see. I gave him a master class on how to use a chisel so you can guess where he is at in his stage of development.
Locust is good stuff.
in machining these are called "datum surfaces" and the mark, in drafting, is the same open triangle
Where can I get the Tennon lay out tool? Nice job on the video.
Thank you for this.Sent 10 to tip jar
Thank you very much, it is appreciated.
Nice job, good series.
Timberframing is what interests me.
Im nervous about the braces.
I'll cover the braces very soon.
Good review of the information and keep it up.💚💜⚒👍🏻👏
Thank you Don
Like riding a bycicle, you never forget. Nice!
Good afternoon, excellent series, has anyone found this tool or similar option?
Unfortunately they are no longer made but it is something you can make out of plywood if needs be.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching
building my first timber frame 16x24 maple syrup cabin need all the help i can get thanks for the video
Excellent. Hope this helps and I'll be covering the whole process.
I'll be building a Sugar Shack this winter as well. It will be my second timber frame...Jim's channel provided the much needed guidance to help me through my first build. Enjoy!!!!
4:05 I understand about the rafters always wanting to push outwards on the top plates, then the ridge or ridge beam will form a droop and your walls will bow outwards near the top.
Isn't (part of) the answer to use purlins?
That's what their purpose is, right?
They transfer more of the load of the roof off the wall and onto the gable end walls.
Love the videos :)
Perkins help to tie the rafters together from gable end to gable end but they do not help against raster thrust. Collar ties help with rafters thrust but they only work close to your wall top plates. That's where the beam joinery comes into play. A big through tenon pegged properly and designed for the load does the brunt of the work fighting rafter thrust.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thanks for the reply.
I think I meant to say that the purlins supplement the collar ties to keep the top plates from spreading.
Just thinking of old log cabin roof truss design.
Many times they used very large purlins.
I wish I had time to watch more videos.
I want to build a 24'x36' two story timber frame home with 12/12 pitch roof, queen posts rafters/purlins, full basement, then wrap it with an 1850s hand hewn dovetail log cabin, using 8'' thick x11'' tall wall logs (rounded on top and bottom) and 2 inch chink gap.
Then after they air dry and settle (3 years), connect the log walls to the timber frame, strong. :)
Any thoughts?
big al: great tool!
GREAT VIDEO
Good idea, going through this stuff again, Jim. I love that Big Al, but dang they're expensive! (and don't exist here in Japan...)
They are expensive
A blacksmith could make a slick from a scrap big truck spring.
Although a perfect tenon can be made on either end if the edges of the two tenons on either end are not parallel it will be wrong because of bows, twist, warp ect. which you did hint at unless you have angled tenons or something like that.
Nice video thanks for sharing.
It'll be featured a lot coming up.
Hi Jim. Glad to see the timber framing stuff. On the "reduction": That is a great method. Is that an effort to make ALL the timbers equal at the joints even if they may not all be exactly the same width, they will be by doing the reductions to a standard for ALL the timbers of that class?
Exactly
What is the framing square you use? “The big L”?
Fantastic, love learning from your timber framing experiences, just subscribed again.
Brice would be so proud of you on that drop cut 😂
Must be a floor foist?
I tried to order one from Jim, but hes not too user friendly on payment.
I like forging, I like woodworking but I find I truly love timber framing. There is nothing like it. I'm gearing up for another big build.
excellent
Hello Ozzie
I want to build my own timber frame house some day. I was thinking about maybe building walls out of a new hempcrete block system called Just Biofiber and doing all of the horizontals timber framed. Have you seen anything similar to this being done? How do you join masonry to large timbers? Would I need to hire someone to do it?
Traditionally it would have been done with wattle and daub but there isn't much insulation value to be had. I'll have to look into it, I'm not quite sure to be honest.
many thanks jim;; detailed and instructive for us newbies and wanabies :) by the way jim, remember those circular saws sent to you from the uk? i remember you saying you would use, and update about their quality .... do you have a link to the video?
Let me see what I can find, I have not used them much, I need bushings to make them work here.
I don't remember you having a Big Al before. I first saw one in one of Nathan's videos.They seem hard to find.
Hello LRod, according to Jim Rogers he's going to be producing more of them.
Hard to find but easy to make ......
At 5 .0 minutes why did you decide on 4 1/2 inches? And what is that big l item?
How did you determine your Tenon Size and Length?
Awesome imagine Doing it with only hand tools
I've done it, believe me when I say that if they had power tools back then that they would use them too!
Where did you get the box square??? I have never seen one, it looks great and really handy for timber framing. I am thinking of building a timber frame tool shed. I know no big thing but I have to start somewhere.
It is a tool being sold by Jim Rogers. I can get you his contact info if you'd like.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Yes please, I would appreciate that. Thank You.
jrsawmill@verizon.net
Nice to see this
Me too Mike
Nice vid Jim, you have a great teaching style which is easy to follow. This is going to be a great series. Hope you have the stamina to keep it going. I was thinking back to when I learnt scribe rule, which has much in common, apart from the reductions. I love square rule now, which was a breath of fresh air after scribing everything! Anyway, I learnt that here (and I think European timber framing generally), there is a strong association of flushing up faces in beams of a frame (or bent in your parlance) that are adjacent to a principal room. It's fascinating, and you can see it has been practiced in medieval barns from the 1200's where the threshing bay has flushed up faces, right up to when carpenters were framing domestic house living rooms. Do you have that as 'a thing' in US timber framing? I know we all flush the exterior faces so we can clad square, but this idea of ensuring a principal room has flushed up faces really had me amazed (especially since we have examples left here from approaching 800 years ago...
Anyway, looking forward to seeing the rest of this series. Hope it goes super well. Cheers, Nigel
Hello Nigel. I love square rule framing but I really want to learn scribe. Your European timber frames are works of art!
@@TheTradesmanChannel Hey Jim! That's kind of you to take the time to respond, it's really nice to hear from you. If you really do, and can find the time to come over to Europe, my friend Joe Thompson is the master of scribe rule in the UK. He teaches a three-part course at 'The Weald and Downland Living Museum' in the South of England. Each part is a week, and covers wall framing, roof framing and 'jowl post' framing (nobody does the latter in this country these days, but this is the course where you get to knock out the amazing three-dimensional lap-dovetail tiebeam joint [or English Joint as Steve Chappel has it]). If Mrs Tradesmanchannel will give you the time off, I would heartily recommend it. I did all my timber framing scribe rule training under Joe, and the MSc in Timber Building Conservation there too. I just wish I had the time to practice, but just keep on being hauled back into other stuff. Anyway, take good care. Keep an eye out for that stair well, and stay safe! Have a great day. Cheers, Nigel
Any reason not to lay beam on side and use chainsaw mill as opposed to drop cut?
It's a matter of preference and tool availability for most. I have cut tenons just about anyway you can think, right down to hatchets and axes. Sometimes I'll put big timbers on my sawmill and cut the tenons that way, I've used my chainsaw mill many times as well. What I'm saying is that there are many ways to achieve the same outcome and if it comes out right, then you're not wrong.
The cut that you’re making at 16 and and 30 seconds what is the purpose of this cut? Why not just keep it square all the way around can you explain this to me please?
I was taught that a tenon should be one third the width of the timber it is being cut on for maximum strength.
In timber framing it's generally 1/4
As usual "awesome " .
Thanks buddy
Great video, at 21:15 you mentioned putting the email of Jim Rodgers to obtain that handy tool. What is the email, or how can we go about obtaining the tool?
Google Jim Rodgers timber frame headquarters. But they don't have it in stock at the minute, layout square it's called
You said you were rusty at the beginning of your video! Your rusty looks mighty polished to me! LOL! Just sayin!
I'm pretty rusty
good stuff but i dont think i will be doing any of that drop cutting !! too risky for me
New Toys! ........ I mean "Essential Woodworking Devices, worth their weight in Gold and acquired for a song ;0)"
You got it!
@@TheTradesmanChannel Well no I don't! .... but then again I do not see me making timber-frame mortise and tenons soon ;0)
Jim,love your channel,and learning. I'm trying to find a big all and not being successful can you give me some contact thanks.
Timber Frame Headquarters might be able to help you out.
Hey TradesmanChennel do you or anyone here have tips on learning how to design timber frame structures properly?
Look through the Timber Framing Vlog series on this channel. I actually go into design in depth through out the series.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thanks ill check it out do you go into span calculations? I'm hoping to be able to design whatever (within its limitations) and know its structurally sound.
Dropcut!
I did not see a link or email address to that framing layout tool
They aren't made anymore
A timber frame is just a big piece of furinture.
I've said that very thing in many videos..
Cool you can timber frame but can't use a tape measure 😂 for me it's the opposite 😁
If I had a snappy comeback or a smartass reply boy would I use it but you, sir, have got me! Well played.
@@TheTradesmanChannel no need for a comeback, I'm watching your videos not you watching mine. That means you win right? 😁 Awesome video anyway, I will now get back to building my crocked spice rack 😂
Brilliant!
Constructive criticism: Good idea to demo the how-to of TF, but I think you would need to stick with it and not jump around with many who knows video topics. Lastly, you seem to know what you want to say but find it harder to explain it (practice).
I understand what you're saying but I do what I can at the time. As for finding the proper words, it's a helluva lot harder than it looks to speak fluently looking at a camera than it looks.
@@TheTradesmanChannel I bet. Hence, why many don't do it. Appreciate your efforts.
Sorry, but...a critique: "Guy" usually refers to a guywire, or a male human.
Are you serious? I speak how I speak, if I call something "guy" that is just how I speak. I cannot believe the level of uptight that this world is putting forth these days.
The topic is timber framing, not grammar.
Loving the channel Jim. It’s unfortunate that people feel the need to critique others work even after all the obvious time and effort they put into it. I for one have learned so much from you and for that i thank you.