Thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge. With each of your videos that I watch I learn more about my engine and the critical engineering that is required to allow it to preform efficiently.
Excellent, EXCELLENT way of explaining that to me. I know you explained this in a different video in the past, and I sort of got what you were saying then… well, now I can see EXACTLY what you were saying. Thank you for explaining and demo’ing it in a visual way.
Hi Mr. Baxter, I started watching you a while back. I am very impressed in your knowledge on building motors. I have a 2016 fat boy s and I’ve done quite a bit to it. I’ve added some S&S street comp heads with the 2 inch valves and combustion chambers are 89 cc. I’ve upgraded the cam plate and oil pump. Plus I’ve upgraded the compensator. I’ve changed to a screaming eagle. Manuel adjust primary chain tensioner and upgraded the clutch to a screaming eagle clutch kit and on top of this I’ve added a stage one assault trask turbo. i’m still running the SE 255 cams that came in my 110 in.³ screaming eagle motor. A lot of suggestions have been made to me that the S&S 585 cam would be a great fit. I like riding in the lower RPM range around town but I do enjoy hot riding at times lol maybe be hard riding more often than I should I hope to hear from you is the first time I’ve written to you. I hope you have time. I enjoy your videos. You’re very talented.
Kevin, sorry I couldn't watch whole video during the primere and participate in the live chat. Just watched it and as usual some good info, not covered in this detail anywhere else. Thanks for taking the time to make it for us.
Always great content and excellent information. Always get the best information from your videos. Great job as always Kevin. See you around the corner.
👍🏾 Great video as always. Informational without being too technical. Just did a 124" build on my Dyna. Anything that helps me understand how my engine runs is more than welcome. Thank, Kevin!
Are there any rules/guidelines about valve seating depth? How does one determine how far to sink them into the head? Does that part deal more with combustion chamber size/shape, than valve-to-valve clearance? It seems the latter is dealt with by valve stem length & spring pressure, as you showed. I’m sure I’m over complicating it, but you’ve got the gears turning in my head. 😉
That was a great video. I'm a gear head but that really enlightened me. Excellent explanation, you should consider teaching (though it doesn't pay well).
I got through about 1/3 of it before being interrupted last night, & now it's locked-up 'til the premiere in 3 days. What I saw was addressing EXACTLY some questions I've been having, so now I'm eagerly anticipating the rest!
went through all this with a hot sportster. my tdc lift is .244 in and .236 ex. Had a reputable shop set them up still had to have pistons flycut a little also had to use a little thicker MLS head gasket to give correct squish. Shes a runner now.
I just put a bran new 1340 thanks to a so called Harley Davidson tec I had them put a new top in I went to pick it up didn't even make it home rest pin hit cylinder they said it was my fault so I told them to break it down they found that there was no keepers on front or back cylinders they had to eat a new Evo 1999 heritage softail classic bought it new that was the first time I had any work on it I did my own service thank you for your videos
That's a great choice. That's what "bolt in cam" means...it's confirmed it will work with no other changes required. It also means that the base circle of the cam is the same as stock...which means you can use solid stock pushrods. Keep in mind...in a twin cam, the lobes get close to each other. When you have a lot of lift, the lobes can hit, so the base circle has to be made smaller...then the lobe can get taller so the lift is there. When you make the base circle smaller, the pushrod has to be longer...which is why very big cams require custom length or adjustable pushrods.
Great video....another reason why we should leave our builds to the pros. What is the name of that tool, you used in your video and would you know where to find it?
As always.... YOU explain things in a way thats easier to understand 🤔!!! Haha Well done again... I love when I can gain more knowledge. I never would have thought about this... Now I hopefully will not destroy motor just for more is better 😅 😬...haha 😄 🤣!!! Thanks for this info !!!!
I need this . I had a local guy build my 1990 evolution , he did not communicate with me and installed 10:5:1 compression , the original plan was 9:5:1 . when he got in he said he discovered there was over size piston , however he never stoped to call me at this point but just get going . So he just did his own thing and installed higher compression and this cam woods w9 cam and it won’t start well now. He ported the heads and and no compression reliefs . I’m passed and might go to litigation over this . He also kept the my original cam and pistons and said they got lost .
Thank you very much sir. Great to be back. That is a very good choice sir...we use those (as well as others) in stock engines and have even used them in built 124 or 128s. All depends on the rider and intended use.
Hey Kevin I appreciate your videos and sharing your knowledge, learned a lot from and love harleys! I have question if u don’t mind, I build a 10.5 compression 110 2008 roadking, heads, throttle body, injectors. Darkhorse bottom end complete service. Gonna be running woods 999s in with 590 lift, was on the fence on a set roller rockers. S&S recommends after 585 and a lot of others iv seen say after you crest the 600mark. I figured I’d ask because I’d trust your opinion or knowledge on it
Kevin, you stated at the end of the video that if you contemplate changing cams, you should talk to your mechanic to find out what headwork had been done to the bike. Would this still apply (talking to mechanic), if you wanted to go from a Screaming Eagle 266 cam, which has high lobes, to much milder cams in a twin cam motorcycle, in order to get ride of the noise? In other words...going from a high performance cam to a much milder cam.
Get as close as you are comfortable with on my build for the best performance while maintaining a safe distance. If I ever have to change cams I will replace it with the same cam you install during the build. I always wondered how to find the distance between valves when then were running, now I know, thanks.
I had my twin-cam 88 cam chest upgrade completed this past December with Feuling kit and S&S 510 cams. Everything else is stock Hope I am not in for a catastrophic failure. So far, so good
@@divine_swine9665 … thanks for asking. I thought as much since the 510’s was recommended by several reputable shops. As far as I am concerned, it’s a major and well worth it upgrade. It brought my old girl back to life and she runs like new actually. I also got the Feuling kit with new hydraulic plate, tensioner shoes, lifters and high flow oil pump. The rods are stock. Where I really notice the difference is at 3k RPM at 70 mph or so, which is about half throttle now, instead of full throttle trying to pass before the upgrade. I have all the torque and passing speed I need now. With this upgrade I have no desire to sell or trade her. On a side note, I have a very newbie GoPro short video of me riding the Harley and my GoldWing. Lots to learn on that front that you will see if your interested in viewing
Part of the reason I won't mix and match parts. I know if I purchase a complete kit supplied by a manufacturer the parts were intended to work together. I say complete kit as in, a complete set, jugs, pistons, heads, cam, crank and all the rest in one purchased kit.
Great content as always. Learned something new with the side load on the valve stem protrusion and overlap clearance. The fixture holding the dial indicators is a must have with high lift cams with larger overlap for sure. What exactly do they call that tool ? Thanks for the great info and instruction.
I’m putting an ev13 in my 1340…..measurements seem to indicate I’m fine with stock stuff….albeit fresh lifters too….engine is built, just need to do primary case.
I have redshift 577 cams in 98 big bore S&S CNC and Ported the heads with bigger valves just not sure valve spring lift but my guess is they would of went with the 585 springs maybe 640 but I don't know and not going to mess with any of that I'm just going to build my crank with Darkhorse Crankworks and install S&S TC3 kit cause in just 12k miles i had outer cam bearing failure and the Screamin eagle cam plate oil pump was scoring up and just barley starting to seep past oil pump i checked run out multiple times .04 so Darkhorse it is with H beam rods
I wonder if there is any measurable advantage to just polishing heads on M8. I’m doing a Reaper 465. But were I live there’s no place for much more power.
I'm curious about something. If the intake and exhaust lifts are very different from each other, like RS 627 with a .033 difference, can the exhaust valve tuck under the intake valve without actually crashing into it? I'm imagining that the feeler gauge used perpendicular to the deck wouldn't fit, but if you tilted it you could still get it to slide between the valves. I am NOT saying you would want that though. No way I'm doing that to my ride. Just a theoretical question.
Yes it can. Valves can also be back cut slightly to allow more of that clearance you speak of. Those are things done in very tight fitting high performance engines. This is where the disclaimer and claying comes in for a dynamic clearance. The static method is great for demonstration and a good picture of what's going on...but not a defacto final measurement. TDC is also not always the point the valves are open most just before and just after TDC...so that has to be considered as well. great question.
Great vid Kevin. Explained a lot. I know it's an old vid but hopefully you see this comment. I've got a 103 HO Tourer. Stock catted headpipe with an SE Extreme Ventilator intake and RSD slip ons. I have a set of Woods 222 cams with a TDC lift of .156 and .156 ready to go in. I'm looking for the low to mid torque. Could I install Cometic 30 thou head gaskets for a couple of extra points of compression and still have enough valve clearance to reuse stock solid pushrods with the 222's TDC lift of .156? I had considered porting and skimming the heads, but the cams don't like more than 9.85:1 comp and I'm not chasing top end HP. Leaning more towards 2,000-4,500 rpm. Compression is better for torque and head porting is better for HP correct? I'm in Australia so your services are far away, but your knowledge is here. So stock catted headpipe, air cleaner, slip ons, cams, stock pushrods, thinner head gaskets and dyno tune for efficiency. Workable combination in your opinion?
Interesting stuff, Kevin, great video. So many variables. You mentioned “claying the engine” and I’m envisioning putting a known amount of soft clay into a mocked up engine cylinder and turning it over by hand to mark the valve positions at TDC. Is that what “claying” refers to?
That is correct sir! A soft clay or playdoh works great. you flatten a piece of it across the pistons and cycle the engine thru. When we build ultra high performance stuff...huge valves, dome pistons, big cams with a lot of overlap...this is a MUST do for a professional engine builder. Great question. This also confirms piston to valve clearance with certainty.
Hopefully the Revolution X enginr will be put in more motorcycles so Harley customers won't have to deal with this crap. The Rev X seems to be designed properly right out of the factory.
Do you have any Evo Sportster or rubbermount Sportster videos, or will you do one? A rundown on regular issues, performance upgrades and just your regular knowledge?
I seen an old post of It's that had U thinking of selling bikes. Have U started doing that yet an do U have a price list ?. Would like to find out , a big fan...
I’m very new to all this just bought my first Harley 2018 sg and was thinking of doing cam oil pump and venting have a little experience with older cars now I’m not sure if I can lol. Very informative thank you
go slow, be diligent, follow instructions, use proper tools. If you are mechanically inclined, go for it. caution with adjusting your pushrods....i did a video on that too.
there are several great cams out there. we use cams from everyone. its a matter of choosing the right one for you. There is no BEST CAM out there for everyone. All the best to you.
Not really...overlap is the time in degrees they are both off the seat. TDC lift is how far they are open only at TDC, clearance between valves is the resulting number.
@@KevinBaxter so overlap is measured in degrees of rotation and TDC lift is how much they lift off the seat. But since both are occuring at the same time and are just different measurements for the same "event" , because the fact both valves are ever so slightly open at the same time and their opening events happen to overlap. That is more precisely my question. Or have I misunderstood something?
Great vid as always. Thinking of a Woods 22xe, .470 lift, for my stock 107 M8. Do you think this is a safe cam to run in my stock motor? Will be swapping lifters, bearing and using adjustable push rods. Also chest plate and pump.
Hey Kevin; I have a 2000 FXDWG Dyna wide glide and I have pursued a S&S cam set, the cams are 510C. Now what do you think? Also I am going to replace them my self.
Regarding a 2020 Harley Davidson CVO Limited with a factory 117 c.I. and the factory Screamin Eagle 131 c.I. upgrade kit installed, which camshaft through your extensive research do you suggest for added power and torque?
I havent had the chance to try several cams in that engine...so I'd be hesitant to make a suggestion. Pull the specs of the cam you have now. If you want more low end, choose a cam with a shorter duration and earlier intake close. more mid to high range, longer duration, later intake close, maybe a little more lift.
Thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge. With each of your videos that I watch I learn more about my engine and the critical engineering that is required to allow it to preform efficiently.
Excellent video Kevin. Thanks for taking the time away from the shop to share this with all of us. 🤟
Love your videos but I'd like to see more on Shovelheads & Evos.
Excellent, EXCELLENT way of explaining that to me. I know you explained this in a different video in the past, and I sort of got what you were saying then… well, now I can see EXACTLY what you were saying. Thank you for explaining and demo’ing it in a visual way.
Youre welcome! Thank you.
Hi Mr. Baxter, I started watching you a while back. I am very impressed in your knowledge on building motors. I have a 2016 fat boy s and I’ve done quite a bit to it. I’ve added some S&S street comp heads with the 2 inch valves and combustion chambers are 89 cc. I’ve upgraded the cam plate and oil pump. Plus I’ve upgraded the compensator. I’ve changed to a screaming eagle. Manuel adjust primary chain tensioner and upgraded the clutch to a screaming eagle clutch kit and on top of this I’ve added a stage one assault trask turbo. i’m still running the SE 255 cams that came in my 110 in.³ screaming eagle motor. A lot of suggestions have been made to me that the S&S 585 cam would be a great fit. I like riding in the lower RPM range around town but I do enjoy hot riding at times lol maybe be hard riding more often than I should I hope to hear from you is the first time I’ve written to you. I hope you have time. I enjoy your videos. You’re very talented.
Gotta love dealing w/ Hemi-style heads. Another great video Kevin!
Kevin, sorry I couldn't watch whole video during the primere and participate in the live chat. Just watched it and as usual some good info, not covered in this detail anywhere else. Thanks for taking the time to make it for us.
Thankyou for this masterclass Kevin. I feel like l am back in school watching your brilliant posts 👍👍👍
Excellent tutorial on variables that an abundance of people wouldn't think about,including me. Your videos are super helpful, thanks
I have never seen it explained this way. Thanks Kevin!
Your videos are always so straight forward and easy to follow/understand 👍🏻
Man l miss building engines. Love the info. Brings back memories.
Thank you, Kevin; knowledge is power!
Good stuff looking forward to more info🇦🇺🍻
Great to see you back at it Professor Baxter
Always great content and excellent information. Always get the best information from your videos.
Great job as always Kevin. See you around the corner.
I've been looking at the fueling 543 for my 2010 twin cam
Love your videos. Learning a lot from watching!
Great information. Its always good to be reminded of basic theory and then see its application.
Thank you for passing on some very well explained tech.
Another VERY informative video, thanks Kevin
Outstanding video!!!!! When it comes time for my heads to be done.......i know where im sending them!!!!
Right on! Thank you sir!
Love from DeKalb Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
This type of knowledge invaluable. Thank you Mr. Baxter.
👍🏾
Great video as always. Informational without being too technical. Just did a 124" build on my Dyna. Anything that helps me understand how my engine runs is more than welcome.
Thank, Kevin!
Kevin I know your not a baker but you sure are one smart cookie
Are there any rules/guidelines about valve seating depth? How does one determine how far to sink them into the head? Does that part deal more with combustion chamber size/shape, than valve-to-valve clearance? It seems the latter is dealt with by valve stem length & spring pressure, as you showed. I’m sure I’m over complicating it, but you’ve got the gears turning in my head. 😉
That was a great video. I'm a gear head but that really enlightened me. Excellent explanation, you should consider teaching (though it doesn't pay well).
As always, very informative and understandable. Thanks Kevin!
Kevin, that was a new one for me. I learn new things when you do your stuff! Thanks Mitch.
Great info, Kevin. Thank you for the detailed examples!
Thank you for clear and easy to understand explanation.
Learned a lot from this, thank you.
Great info, thanks for sharing, showing clearance at TDC was very informative
Another great informative video thank you Kevin..👍🏻🇦🇺
Love from Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Very informative content, well explained and well illustrated. Another all around great video.
Very informative and very interesting!
I got through about 1/3 of it before being interrupted last night, & now it's locked-up 'til the premiere in 3 days. What I saw was addressing EXACTLY some questions I've been having, so now I'm eagerly anticipating the rest!
Fascinating, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thanks for taking the time on this Kevin great knowledge as always
Hell when you get in the twenty thousands range gaskets and head decking could even become an issue.
Yep, for piston to valve clearance.
went through all this with a hot sportster. my tdc lift is .244 in and
.236 ex. Had a reputable shop set them up still had to have pistons flycut a little also had to use a little thicker MLS head gasket to give correct squish. Shes a runner now.
I just put a bran new 1340 thanks to a so called Harley Davidson tec I had them put a new top in I went to pick it up didn't even make it home rest pin hit cylinder they said it was my fault so I told them to break it down they found that there was no keepers on front or back cylinders they had to eat a new Evo 1999 heritage softail classic bought it new that was the first time I had any work on it I did my own service thank you for your videos
Love your content keep up the good work
Appreciate it!
Great info. I installed a RS468 in my stock 114 M8 because zippers said it was a bolt in cam. Didn’t want to increase lift much.
That's a great choice. That's what "bolt in cam" means...it's confirmed it will work with no other changes required. It also means that the base circle of the cam is the same as stock...which means you can use solid stock pushrods. Keep in mind...in a twin cam, the lobes get close to each other. When you have a lot of lift, the lobes can hit, so the base circle has to be made smaller...then the lobe can get taller so the lift is there. When you make the base circle smaller, the pushrod has to be longer...which is why very big cams require custom length or adjustable pushrods.
Agree, I have nice result with RS468, the best bolt in cam for M8.
Very well done. Great explanation!!!
Brilliant explanation...I always learn something with your videos!✅👍😊
Great video....another reason why we should leave our builds to the pros. What is the name of that tool, you used in your video and would you know where to find it?
As always.... YOU explain things in a way thats easier to understand 🤔!!! Haha Well done again... I love when I can gain more knowledge. I never would have thought about this... Now I hopefully will not destroy motor just for more is better 😅 😬...haha 😄 🤣!!! Thanks for this info !!!!
Thanks Richard.
Great to see a new video.. great information!
Thanks for going to such detail in the explanation especially liked when you explained the difference between static and dynamic.
Very good presentation! Thank you!
hey Kevin good to see ya. that's a great video
As always, a great informative video - Cheers.
Thank you!
I need this . I had a local guy build my 1990 evolution , he did not communicate with me and installed 10:5:1 compression , the original plan was 9:5:1 . when he got in he said he discovered there was over size piston , however he never stoped to call me at this point but just get going . So he just did his own thing and installed higher compression and this cam woods w9 cam and it won’t start well now. He ported the heads and and no compression reliefs . I’m passed and might go to litigation over this . He also kept the my original cam and pistons and said they got lost .
Glad you are back! Thinking about a cam as you present this! S+S 465 in an M8
Thank you very much sir. Great to be back. That is a very good choice sir...we use those (as well as others) in stock engines and have even used them in built 124 or 128s. All depends on the rider and intended use.
Hey Kevin I appreciate your videos and sharing your knowledge, learned a lot from and love harleys! I have question if u don’t mind, I build a 10.5 compression 110 2008 roadking, heads, throttle body, injectors. Darkhorse bottom end complete service. Gonna be running woods 999s in with 590 lift, was on the fence on a set roller rockers. S&S recommends after 585 and a lot of others iv seen say after you crest the 600mark. I figured I’d ask because I’d trust your opinion or knowledge on it
Winder Georgia gifted with both Kevin Baxter and John Kaussie.
Kevin, you stated at the end of the video that if you contemplate changing cams, you should talk to your mechanic to find out what headwork had been done to the bike. Would this still apply (talking to mechanic), if you wanted to go from a Screaming Eagle 266 cam, which has high lobes, to much milder cams in a twin cam motorcycle, in order to get ride of the noise? In other words...going from a high performance cam to a much milder cam.
Thank you so much. You explained this very well. Felt like I was back in auto shop in high school. Great job at teaching.
thank you sir!
Great information!
Interesting!
I'm impressed!
Get as close as you are comfortable with on my build for the best performance while maintaining a safe distance. If I ever have to change cams I will replace it with the same cam you install during the build. I always wondered how to find the distance between valves when then were running, now I know, thanks.
I had my twin-cam 88 cam chest upgrade completed this past December with Feuling kit and S&S 510 cams. Everything else is stock
Hope I am not in for a catastrophic failure. So far, so good
How’s it compare to stock? You should be fine since a 510 cam isn’t a huge lift cam.
@@divine_swine9665 … thanks for asking. I thought as much since the 510’s was recommended by several reputable shops. As far as I am concerned, it’s a major and well worth it upgrade. It brought my old girl back to life and she runs like new actually. I also got the Feuling kit with new hydraulic plate, tensioner shoes, lifters and high flow oil pump. The rods are stock. Where I really notice the difference is at 3k RPM at 70 mph or so, which is about half throttle now, instead of full throttle trying to pass before the upgrade. I have all the torque and passing speed I need now. With this upgrade I have no desire to sell or trade her. On a side note, I have a very newbie GoPro short video of me riding the Harley and my GoldWing. Lots to learn on that front that you will see if your interested in viewing
Part of the reason I won't mix and match parts. I know if I purchase a complete kit supplied by a manufacturer the parts were intended to work together. I say complete kit as in, a complete set, jugs, pistons, heads, cam, crank and all the rest in one purchased kit.
Kevin thanks for sharing and God’s blessings for you and don’t work to hard
You KNOW YOUR SH*T , KEVIN VERY INFOMERCIAL YOUR THE MASTER BRO THANK YOUR FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE !! AND EXPERIENCE!!✔️👍😎
Outstanding sir.
Damn son, I just learned something today . 👍
Great content as always. Learned something new with the side load on the valve stem protrusion and overlap clearance. The fixture holding the dial indicators is a must have with high lift cams with larger overlap for sure. What exactly do they call that tool ? Thanks for the great info and instruction.
Thanks Josh. Trock used to make it...then Berg did. If you search for the "Trock Valve Tool" youll probably find something similar to it.
Gr8 video lots of good info!! Thanks
Excellent video!!
Thanks Kevo🍻🇦🇺
I’m putting an ev13 in my 1340…..measurements seem to indicate I’m fine with stock stuff….albeit fresh lifters too….engine is built, just need to do primary case.
I have redshift 577 cams in 98 big bore S&S CNC and Ported the heads with bigger valves just not sure valve spring lift but my guess is they would of went with the 585 springs maybe 640 but I don't know and not going to mess with any of that I'm just going to build my crank with Darkhorse Crankworks and install S&S TC3 kit cause in just 12k miles i had outer cam bearing failure and the Screamin eagle cam plate oil pump was scoring up and just barley starting to seep past oil pump i checked run out multiple times .04 so Darkhorse it is with H beam rods
Nicely done. ..
Would a over rev bring the valves even closer..
Great video thanks for the information...
Glad it was helpful! Thank you sir!
will a screaming eagle 255 Work in my Stock 2011 96ci Dyna ???
I'm already at stage 1 V&H big radio 2-2 SE big air SE super tuner pro
I wonder if there is any measurable advantage to just polishing heads on M8. I’m doing a Reaper 465. But were I live there’s no place for much more power.
Not able to receive the video for some reason,read the comments though.
I'm curious about something. If the intake and exhaust lifts are very different from each other, like RS 627 with a .033 difference, can the exhaust valve tuck under the intake valve without actually crashing into it? I'm imagining that the feeler gauge used perpendicular to the deck wouldn't fit, but if you tilted it you could still get it to slide between the valves. I am NOT saying you would want that though. No way I'm doing that to my ride. Just a theoretical question.
Yes it can. Valves can also be back cut slightly to allow more of that clearance you speak of. Those are things done in very tight fitting high performance engines. This is where the disclaimer and claying comes in for a dynamic clearance. The static method is great for demonstration and a good picture of what's going on...but not a defacto final measurement. TDC is also not always the point the valves are open most just before and just after TDC...so that has to be considered as well. great question.
How much would it be to bullet proof a m8 engine? It a 17 with 16000 miles street glide s with no power adders 100% stock
Great vid Kevin. Explained a lot. I know it's an old vid but hopefully you see this comment. I've got a 103 HO Tourer. Stock catted headpipe with an SE Extreme Ventilator intake and RSD slip ons. I have a set of Woods 222 cams with a TDC lift of .156 and .156 ready to go in. I'm looking for the low to mid torque. Could I install Cometic 30 thou head gaskets for a couple of extra points of compression and still have enough valve clearance to reuse stock solid pushrods with the 222's TDC lift of .156? I had considered porting and skimming the heads, but the cams don't like more than 9.85:1 comp and I'm not chasing top end HP. Leaning more towards 2,000-4,500 rpm. Compression is better for torque and head porting is better for HP correct? I'm in Australia so your services are far away, but your knowledge is here. So stock catted headpipe, air cleaner, slip ons, cams, stock pushrods, thinner head gaskets and dyno tune for efficiency. Workable combination in your opinion?
Interesting stuff, Kevin, great video. So many variables. You mentioned “claying the engine” and I’m envisioning putting a known amount of soft clay into a mocked up engine cylinder and turning it over by hand to mark the valve positions at TDC. Is that what “claying” refers to?
That is correct sir! A soft clay or playdoh works great. you flatten a piece of it across the pistons and cycle the engine thru. When we build ultra high performance stuff...huge valves, dome pistons, big cams with a lot of overlap...this is a MUST do for a professional engine builder. Great question. This also confirms piston to valve clearance with certainty.
Seen 883 to 1200 big bore without reverse piston dome for the 883 chamber .
Ouch 😣
@@crspcritter ouch... 😣
Thank you!!
Hopefully the Revolution X enginr will be put in more motorcycles so Harley customers won't have to deal with this crap.
The Rev X seems to be designed properly right out of the factory.
Wtf. The rev X sounds like a Japanese bike engine. Harley would lose major business over night
Do you have any Evo Sportster or rubbermount Sportster videos, or will you do one? A rundown on regular issues, performance upgrades and just your regular knowledge?
I seen an old post of It's that had U thinking of selling bikes. Have U started doing that yet an do U have a price list ?. Would like to find out , a big fan...
I’m very new to all this just bought my first Harley 2018 sg and was thinking of doing cam oil pump and venting have a little experience with older cars now I’m not sure if I can lol. Very informative thank you
go slow, be diligent, follow instructions, use proper tools. If you are mechanically inclined, go for it. caution with adjusting your pushrods....i did a video on that too.
@@KevinBaxter thank you I will I can’t have my heads done so I will try and find a cam that works with the m8 stock. Love your vids great work!!
there are several great cams out there. we use cams from everyone. its a matter of choosing the right one for you. There is no BEST CAM out there for everyone. All the best to you.
so TDC valve clearance is during what is commonly referred to as "valve overlap"...correct?
Not really...overlap is the time in degrees they are both off the seat. TDC lift is how far they are open only at TDC, clearance between valves is the resulting number.
@@KevinBaxter so overlap is measured in degrees of rotation and TDC lift is how much they lift off the seat. But since both are occuring at the same time and are just different measurements for the same "event" , because the fact both valves are ever so slightly open at the same time and their opening events happen to overlap. That is more precisely my question. Or have I misunderstood something?
What is the maximum lift at TDC on a stock head & gasket for a TC 103 for having to worry about hitting the piston?
Great vid as always. Thinking of a Woods 22xe, .470 lift, for my stock 107 M8. Do you think this is a safe cam to run in my stock motor? Will be swapping lifters, bearing and using adjustable push rods. Also chest plate and pump.
Zipper’s Redshift 468 all day long in the 107.
Best cam for a 110 TC?
Another great video!!!!
what about if you have a stock heads instead of custom ones
You know youre safe with a bolt in cam. Anything beyond that, consult the cam manufacturer. They will know.
@@KevinBaxter sweet thanks for the reply love the content!
Hi Kevin!
Hey Kevin;
I have a 2000 FXDWG Dyna wide glide and I have pursued a S&S cam set, the cams are 510C. Now what do you think? Also I am going to replace them my self.
So it's technically not the cam, but the valve geometry after the cam, hence the cam tearing up the engine.
hey Kevin whats the model number or name of the burgs bike tool your using to test valve clearance?
Many years ago, Trock made that. Then Bergs bought them out i believe. Not sure if that tool is available from them anymore or not.
Regarding a 2020 Harley Davidson CVO Limited with a factory 117 c.I. and the factory Screamin Eagle 131 c.I. upgrade kit installed, which camshaft through your extensive research do you suggest for added power and torque?
I havent had the chance to try several cams in that engine...so I'd be hesitant to make a suggestion. Pull the specs of the cam you have now. If you want more low end, choose a cam with a shorter duration and earlier intake close. more mid to high range, longer duration, later intake close, maybe a little more lift.