So good to see things going wrong as this is real world problems that happens to us all. Thank you for not skipping over the problem & will be definitely saving this video to my favourites.
Thank you so much for this video! You saved my day! I would not have been able to change the brakes on my car without that trick you showed with the piston.
I have managed to push the piston back. Without this video I wouldn’t have managed to. The idea of putting the calliper back so it holds while you wind back was the saviour overall.
Appreciate this, had the same issue, rear pads down to the metal. Could not get the rear caliper to compress. Thought I would have to replace both rear calipers. Came across this video and just kept at it, finally it compressed, bent the heck out of the caliper tool haha. Thank you bro!
Thankyou for this vid, did the same on my car same as the one in this video, love how you put the caliper back so you can wind the piston easier, legend
@@BMACVAGS Look forward to it. If you could show the best places for positioning axle stands for additional support that would be great. Enjoyed the video even though I don't have this car, thanks.
Great watch as always. I’m having a nightmare with rear brakes on a v5 2002 beetle I own. I wonder if I can pick your brains to see if there is anything I have missed. So the set up is the same as a mk4 golf but this has vented rear discs. No matter what I do I can’t stop the passengers side from rubbing. I’m on my thirds set of pads and discs and third caliper. Here is what I have replaced. Both hand brake cables. Both calipers. Both pads and discs. Both carriers and sliders. Both rear brake pipes and lines. It’s basically like new all round but no matter what I do the back rear passenger side rubs. The only thing I haven’t done is allow a small 1.5mm gap on the handbrake cable lever where it rests on the stop. I just have mine sitting on the stops. Any ideas as I have tried everything? Everything moves as it should with nothing sticking etc and the piston winds back in. All the parts are correct and the drivers side never causes an issue. Oh it’s an abs model if that makes any difference. When I first assemble it it all seems ok then after driving for a test run it starts to drag. I’m on the third caliper now so it’s getting expensive lol. Any advice would be golden. Thanks matey.
You are an absolute gem. Thank you for this video. Quick question. Tightening the 15mm brake slider pin and 13mm bolt behind it. You do mention that we do not need to tighten these up very hard. When i was taking them off, they were quiet stuck and I had to force them loose. After putting them back on with the new 13mm bolts that came with the pads, and greasing up the sliders, they go back on there but I cant get them closed tight like it was before. They are definetly snug and I am holding the 15mm in place with a wrench but I can continue tightening them up but they never stop, continues to spin. Is that tight enough? or should I worry about it? Thanks in advance.
When you say the rotor should be moving freely do you mean you shouldn’t hear the pads rubbing the rotor at all? Or them rubbing is fine as long as they aren’t stopping the rotor from spinning?
Hi i change my brake pads on my mk6 golf now i have a sinking brake pedal and idea what it could be im at my wits end i have tried everything. One thing i notice when using a power bleeder very little brake fulid comes out of all calipers please help
Try the 2 man manual bleed method. If that fails then shoot compressed air through each line. Most likely the inside rubber flex lines have rotted and you have rubber bits and pieces clogging the lines.
If you have a seized calliper gently lift the rubber without ripping it and spray WD40 on the inside of the caliper it will lubricate it and make it wind back easier.
Always liked the Milwaukee impacts. I do have Ingersol Rand ones but their customer service to the Brits is non existent. Even given the fact their Irish firm. I like the Dewalt though but is compactness is a bit poor!
Never use a breaker bar to wind the caliper back 😂 hence it needs replaced never force it back either as you can see the boot is twisted which that caliper will fail, never hit a brake pad with a hammer means the surface isn't cleaned properly them brakes are defo gonna be sticking 😂
Суппорт под замену. В рабочем суппорте поршень закручивается этим приспособлением с небольшим усилием. Колодки предыдущие и диск тормозной спалены из-за неработающего тормозного суппорта. Новые колодки и диск тормозной будут спалены так же очень быстро. 😂
So good to see things going wrong as this is real world problems that happens to us all. Thank you for not skipping over the problem & will be definitely saving this video to my favourites.
Thank you so much for this video! You saved my day! I would not have been able to change the brakes on my car without that trick you showed with the piston.
You're welcome!
Great video, i like not having to remove the caliper bracket, Thanks for the help.
I have managed to push the piston back. Without this video I wouldn’t have managed to. The idea of putting the calliper back so it holds while you wind back was the saviour overall.
Appreciate this, had the same issue, rear pads down to the metal. Could not get the rear caliper to compress. Thought I would have to replace both rear calipers. Came across this video and just kept at it, finally it compressed, bent the heck out of the caliper tool haha. Thank you bro!
Nice detail work. Cleaning up surfaces and using anti-seize on the wheel hub!
Good to see you back bmac great video again 👊🏻
Thank you Colin
Thankyou for this vid, did the same on my car same as the one in this video, love how you put the caliper back so you can wind the piston easier, legend
Does the caliper carrier have to come off to remove the disks
Them 1/2 inch impact wrenches are priceless, I have a Milwaukee but they are all similar.
Happy to see a video of how to jack a car from you. Welcome back!
I appreciate that. i will try to make a car jacking video... the legal way obviously lol
@@BMACVAGS Look forward to it. If you could show the best places for positioning axle stands for additional support that would be great. Enjoyed the video even though I don't have this car, thanks.
@@SirPrancelot1 I agree, be very useful to know where to place axle stands and where to lift besides the usual jack points.
Just discovered your videos! So good, really good camera work and narration. Keep them coming!
Awesome, thank you!
I love your little helper!
She is the boss
Very useful, thanks.
Great video with excellent commentary. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much
It's good to have you back :)
I appreciate that
Thank you for kind comment. Hopefully I can provide you guys with more content
Hopefully the sign of things to come more blogs Missed your vag expertise 👍
I apreciate that
Yes, finally mate. Awesome 👍👍👍
Thank you
How many times have I set the alarm off with it locking itself!! Good to see you emphasising on cleanliness and re greasing, top job
Glad to help
Love the channel! I'm from America but I've got 2 mk 4 golf TDI cars!
I appreciate that. Mk4s are the cornerstones of Golfs
Great video hope the house is going well.
Thank You
Great to see you back, where have you been, hope all the house stuff is sorted
House stuff is never sorted, just contantly finding more to do....lol
Great watch as always. I’m having a nightmare with rear brakes on a v5 2002 beetle I own. I wonder if I can pick your brains to see if there is anything I have missed. So the set up is the same as a mk4 golf but this has vented rear discs. No matter what I do I can’t stop the passengers side from rubbing. I’m on my thirds set of pads and discs and third caliper. Here is what I have replaced. Both hand brake cables. Both calipers. Both pads and discs. Both carriers and sliders. Both rear brake pipes and lines. It’s basically like new all round but no matter what I do the back rear passenger side rubs. The only thing I haven’t done is allow a small 1.5mm gap on the handbrake cable lever where it rests on the stop. I just have mine sitting on the stops. Any ideas as I have tried everything? Everything moves as it should with nothing sticking etc and the piston winds back in. All the parts are correct and the drivers side never causes an issue. Oh it’s an abs model if that makes any difference. When I first assemble it it all seems ok then after driving for a test run it starts to drag. I’m on the third caliper now so it’s getting expensive lol. Any advice would be golden. Thanks matey.
Good video, did the new discs have a coating on them to help stop the hub rusting do you know please ?
You Legend, respect!!!
You are welcome, Thank you for commenting.
Great job bro 👌👌👌👍👍👍👍
You are an absolute gem. Thank you for this video. Quick question. Tightening the 15mm brake slider pin and 13mm bolt behind it. You do mention that we do not need to tighten these up very hard. When i was taking them off, they were quiet stuck and I had to force them loose. After putting them back on with the new 13mm bolts that came with the pads, and greasing up the sliders, they go back on there but I cant get them closed tight like it was before. They are definetly snug and I am holding the 15mm in place with a wrench but I can continue tightening them up but they never stop, continues to spin. Is that tight enough? or should I worry about it? Thanks in advance.
Great video, just what I was looking for. Do you need to adjust the hand brake cable etc. after completion Thanks M
Excellent video ☺
Thank you very much!
Thanks for this video. I was watching your videos from your tutorial on Golf Mk4.
I have a question, can we use a copper grease on the slide pin ?
You can, but these greases can hold dirt and grime depending on who you speak to. So its horses for courses
@@BMACVAGSThanks, for my self, i didnt find a silicone grease but i find a silicone spray.
When you say the rotor should be moving freely do you mean you shouldn’t hear the pads rubbing the rotor at all? Or them rubbing is fine as long as they aren’t stopping the rotor from spinning?
Earthquakes dont send emails 🤣🤣👌
Wouldnt some spray lubricant help with the caliper? Like pb blaster, let it soak for awhile.
Mk6 GTI
Do you have to remove the calliper carrier bolts as the discs are bigger 🤔
Buen trabajo !!
I am happy you liked it
I ended up grinding down a spare 15mm spanner for that very job
I was close to doing the same, it took me 40 mins to find that slim one
Been there. You have to think on your feet and adapt, and think outside the box.
Earthquakes don't send emails 😂😂😂
C'monnnnnnnn
Nice one
Thanks for watching
Should you use the torque wrench before you fully lower down the car?
Thank
You are welcome
you do all this with the handbrake up or down??
My wind back tool was rotating but instead of pushing piston back it was bending and the tool broke
NO MENTION OF PUMPING YOUR BRAKE PEDEL OR HAND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT ?
Haha my brake caliper rewind tool is bent like yours from having this happen.
They are a nightmare, but we got the job done in the end
Hi i change my brake pads on my mk6 golf now i have a sinking brake pedal and idea what it could be im at my wits end i have tried everything. One thing i notice when using a power bleeder very little brake fulid comes out of all calipers please help
Try the 2 man manual bleed method. If that fails then shoot compressed air through each line. Most likely the inside rubber flex lines have rotted and you have rubber bits and pieces clogging the lines.
@@johnmilner7603 thank for getting back to me. I give that a go cheers
👊🏾💯
Love and respect
If you have a seized calliper gently lift the rubber without ripping it and spray WD40 on the inside of the caliper it will lubricate it and make it wind back easier.
I do that so that when you wind piston in the rubber doesn't twist
Good Tip
⚠️I wouldn't use WD under the piston rubber it affects the hydraulic seals long term. Use red rubber grease !
Always liked the Milwaukee impacts. I do have Ingersol Rand ones but their customer service to the Brits is non existent. Even given the fact their Irish firm. I like the Dewalt though but is compactness is a bit poor!
Agreed
Never use a breaker bar to wind the caliper back 😂 hence it needs replaced never force it back either as you can see the boot is twisted which that caliper will fail, never hit a brake pad with a hammer means the surface isn't cleaned properly them brakes are defo gonna be sticking 😂
Суппорт под замену. В рабочем суппорте поршень закручивается этим приспособлением с небольшим усилием. Колодки предыдущие и диск тормозной спалены из-за неработающего тормозного суппорта. Новые колодки и диск тормозной будут спалены так же очень быстро. 😂
I would have just replaced the rear calipers.
Why replace original calipers with a random copy caliper?
the corrosion is so bad i'm assuming this was driven in a salty sea area.
Just British roads. The King owns the salt mines so they spread salt even when it doesn't snow.
A how to vid hammering pads into carriers not the best idea
Would you have just left the shims out and allow the brakes to sieze like the last cowboy?
@@BMACVAGS no would have cleaned down the carrier better to allow pad to move rather than hammering it in and possibly allowing it to seize on