Excellent job I've been welding on equipment for going on 50 years and you are part of a handful of welders that can do this type of work.people like us keep the job going great work my man
Usually when I weld on a truck, it's to tight for my hood, so I use a "welders full face head sock", and a "rectangular oxy/acetylene goggles" with auto darkening lens, then you can get right in there. GREAT Job. Thanks
You have clients (they entrust you with your skills to provide a service) a customer selects an item and purchases it - this is the reason I differentiate - you are doing fine work and the videos are good and well narrated
Scarfing/gouging tips are kind of hard to find for torches these days but they are totally worth it. It is way easier to wash 1/4” off with the scarfing tip than grinding.
Used to do a lot of work like this while was in Afghanistan for the army, and hell I was not even a welder! Lol I feel for ya brother and having someone else get rid of that last 1/4 is easiest way! Lol keep up the good work man good vids👍🏻
Good job brother a tip for you on straight good torch cuts that I always do if possible is use a straight edge like a piece of angle iron clamped to the piece I'm cutting and I always preheat the piece prior to cutting it it always makes a little bit cleaner of a cut good work though man keep on trucking!
Scarfing tips my guy, wonderful tool for the Arsenal. And also sometimes a straight torch like IC Weld uses, can’t say for sure if you could’ve used one here but sometimes it pays to have it in the bag
i was saying what you said. drape some leather where you can and sheer off the excess with a hypotherm. then fine tune it with a good pneumatic paint buster with a sanding wheel.
Hello from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada. Really enjoy your video's, you give your viewers a true look at your profession no sugar coating. Glad I found your channel. Take care.
It's nice to see none shop welding videos. I work on small engine equipment and often times have to weld them. If you go to a welding program or watch other videos you can learn a whole lot of welding techniques that work 0% of the time for my use. Thanks for the good tips
Well Meltin Metal, looked like a job that was indeed sketchy!! I am sure that the welds and fit were perfect but I really wanted that final shot!! Doin’ what you do and filming there’s nothing easy about it! Regardless of the final shot, great stuff. OH YEA, mag drill $1000, bits $200 as you toss the cutter on the steel bumper!! True real life there! Love it!
I use a cutting wheel for excess steel removal in those situations as well. I've found that using a brand new hard stone and sort of using the sharp ninety degree edge to gouge into works too. If you have allot to remove you may use a few new stones but once the edge is rounded just take it off and save it for later. Ideally tho, if I can get a good view and position on it (which you didn't have here) I just use the torch and be very gentle with the oxy blast at about a 45 degree angle to the material and you can just "shave" it of the top of your base material in shallow layers if that makes any sense. It works really well especially if you just got done cutting the bulk of and it's already preheated.
Pretty ruff job, Good call on doing the torch work before l the grinding makes you shaky, always think of those things after you have finished grinding, Great job fabricating the new Bracket, . Nice work
As a factory worker, I have alot of experience cutting big machines apart for repairs or because it was built improperly. It is very important to try to save both peices without leaving a huge gap when you go to put it back on, as you already know. I personally like to make the cut with a "flush-cut tip" or a "scarfing/gouging tip" it has a 90 degree bend in the tip and/or a beveled tip allowing you to cut down to a 16th of an inch without even coming close to gouging the parent material. you can basically do it in a way that you only lose 1/8th or 3/16ths and only have to grind off a 16th also 36 grit sanding pads on an high rpm electric grinder with a rubber backing pad will take off material 3 or 4x faster than a 9 inch grinder with 50 lbs of weight bearing down on the material. WEAR PPE BECAUSE IF THE DISC EXPLODES IT WILL HURT AGAINST BARE SKIN
Looks like you handled it well and your to hard on your self its fantastic work Spot on and as Paul has said we know you’ve had harder jobs than that to do and deal with. Keep up the great work👍👍👍
It's awesome getting on TH-cam and watching ur videos man it makes me see that my dream of welding on my own is getting closer and closer I can't wait love ur advice and all the tricks I learn from you the sheetrock square is one I love you showed never thought of that keep it up man
For grinding things flat get your self a 5 inch sanding pad with 36 grit pads and an 11 amp paddle switch grinder. Removes metal hella good and keeps it relatively flat compared to a sanding disc
I've been in that type situation with the grinder..and torch..you may want to explore different options on abrasives? Have a few " high dollar" " high performance " ones in the box for b.s. spots...the torch...lol..the OLDER you get ...the more shaking you'll have! You did good man. Thanks for sharing...you won
I feel like 36 grit or even a bit finer flap discs are the quickest abrasives to really chew through the material. They are far more expensive and don’t last nearly as long as a hard stone grinding disc but on a piece job it gets you to the next job quicker. Letting the flap disc do the work and not adding excessive pressure helps the life span of them but when you gotta hog out a lot of material just work them into the price. I used to use the trough trick with a cutoff wheel and it helps but doesn’t seem to speed up the removal process with the extra time of trough cutting.
I just used a 40 grit flap on a project today for the first time. I'm never buying hard grinding discs again. Surface finish was way better and it was hogging out material at least as fast as a grinding disc. Time is money and customers like this one would gladly pay the
@@BainRacing134 I got a Walter excavator grinding disc from fab tech expo when they just released them. They remove a serious amount of material. It really hurts to use it without a face shield or long sleeves since it launches chunks of metal at you. I use it sparingly because of this but when I need to take off a lot of stuff it’s a beast. Walter grinding discs are second to none.
Think I have said this before but. As you say mag drills are a must have. I bought the cheapest mag drill on Amazon and have used it heavily for 3 months. $380.00 delivered including tax and I am very impressed. Also bought a set of annuar bits 1/2" to 1 1/16" for $89.00 deliveed, work great. Didn't buy the jacobs chuck for it it because it had many bad reviews.
When I heard you were taking on the job … I kinda figured it get done right ! You remind me of Marty , from ,”Back to the Future.” LoL I may take my grinder out tomorrow , found a piece of painted and rusted , square bar in the desert , gonna see if I can shiny it up and cut 45’s to make a rectangle from the straight piece. I have metal grinding wheel and Acito g wheels. Never used the grinder yet. Brand new. Can’t weld yet , waiting for gas. Cool video.
Most of my welds are on finished cars in an auto manufacturing setting. My first rule of welding on cars, truck, equipment is not to set it on fire. I use a fire blanket most of the time. It works well and I can cut it into whatever shape I need. I’d use a cutting disc or flapper disc on a grinder to clean up what the torch couldn’t get.
Great content brotha! Shout out from a mobile welder myself out of central TX. Ive had repairs just like this and as far as those tight areas to remove metal ur best bet is a grinder. But I swear the grade grinding disc makes a world of a difference. I hate grinding and cant wait to get it over with...I use the threaded Cubitron 3m discs. I say threaded because it allows disc to be brought further away and grind easier in tight areas like that. Yes they are pricey but they get down to it. I use all 11 amp paddle switch Dewalt grinders and they have payed off greatly. I understand one has to remain hard on urself to keep perfecting ur skills but brotha you are doing a great job! I too run a 302 miller in the field and i love how it doesn't chug fuel like a 305 Lincoln. Has never let me down in the field, although i did have rheostat go bad once so far but it's been golden ever since. What brand was that grinder you had? I need that added to my field repair weaponry lol. Oh yeah and would have loved to have seen the end result. I will suggest buying a external battery you can keep plugged into you're phone when u aren't recording in field or buying a phone case that has battery built in. Jose R innovation mobile welding TX
Nice video and I love stuff like this yeah it’s hard but it’s enjoyable. But I’m curious how do you store your rods here in Florida there is so much moisture in the air here.
07:50, after using a grinder one's hands become all jittery, that's so true. There has to be a methodical process of what to do first prior to the next step.
I like burr bits with a 90° pneumatic burr motor for tight spots. I also have a straight one since some tight spots won't work with a 90. The extended burr bits are nice too.
Try Pferd new grinding wheels. They are called Victo Grain. They chew through metal without applying a lot of pressure. I’ve used some of them in my last few jobs and I’m liking the results.
Maybe set up a bit more leather in there to guard against the blast of a plasma cutter to get that last little bit of torch cut then a pneumatic sander with a heavy grit wheel? Cool video . I did a LITTLE of the steel work on municipal snow plows and i know the space you were in and how tight that working area was with all the shit you gotta avoid to not damage other systems. Keep up the great content!
that is tough stuff. I redid the back end of a gmc.. all hangers included. You then have to wonder if it kept the same temper. slow cool is the safest bet.. that florida weather is forever frames anyway. In maine I have cooled stuff down too quick on a summer 40f evening. It comes back to bite.
if you get chance buy some makita grinding disks. They are very aggressive and remove metal faster than any other disk ive ever used. Keep up the good content.
Hey boss Anthony, did you bevel out the bracket or just butt weld on the base metal? Wish you had more pics of the job. Wanting to start my own company and wondering how you welded it up. Thanks bro.
I've had good results removing old welds with a gouging tip on the gas ax. You can literally wash the old weld and previous part right off the parent metal with very little if any damage to the parent metal. Sooo much less grinding. Your hands will thank you.
Huge suggestion my man on the grinding- buy 3m cubitron "cut and grind" wheels and cubitron 4-1/2" sanding wheels not flap disks. Im not in any way affiliated with 3m- ive literally tested every brand on the market and the 36 grit cubitron 3m sanding disk out performed 6 to 1 or much high for longevity and insanely faster then the nearest competitor like norton.
When I need to torch something really close to the base metal I'll take the finest tip I have like 00 stick the tip in the hole on top of a crescent wrench put a slight bend not too much or it'll break but a slight bend like a washing tip and then angle your torch for a closer cut
Try to get some pics or video footage of it when your nearby or have some extra time! I’m really curious how it came out I’ve turned down similar jobs because I didn’t feel confident in how exactly to mock everything up and The way I work is very similar to the way you things I’m just nowhere near as good as you when it comes to professionalism and equipment. I have a tiny little pickup truck and a 220v mig welder getting a bottle soon tho so I can finally start double shielding my welds. I think I will forever use flux core wire and just add some gas to ensure the sterilization of my welds.
hay man i enjoyed your vedios so much here is something you can invest in if you get to "blind grind, blind weld or blind to anything" or even check out shit before starting the job/taking stuff apartment get your self a USBc borescope (the longer the better) 5m+ that pice of equipment costs less then 50$ and its very essential for me (food production line welder) i hook it up to my phone and check shit itln tight places before taking something a part or just use my phone as a very finder for blind work it takes very little practice to get used to hope this is useful to you good luck
Hey man best way I found to remove alot of material after cutting that witha touch use a flat gouging rod 3/8ths minimal grinding less damage to frame also from experience don't flapper wheel a frame u take more material than u expect
Also i hate mag drills soon as u get oil over the vase and shaving cover it it or the metal isn't true ferrous it doesn't dtick resulting in bossy clamps to hold it there heavy and sometimes move but yes try drilling that hole witha regular drill and yup there goes an hour or two
Do your self a favor and buy a used or brand new hypertherm 45 and a no frills 60 gallon air compressor that can do about 15 cfm at 90 psi. Cut that plate off, switch over to gouging and wash away anything that’s left over. Hit it with a needle scaler to clean up. No grinding off excess steel that get left behind after torch cutting. Any mobile rig needs plasma and air compressor. Also not sure where you get annular cutters but I just bought 4) 1”x4” carbide tipped cutter for $100 each. Regular 1” hougen is $75 at most.
I have a compressor, you guys always assume I don't have certain tools cause you can't see em 😉 and you can cut 3/4 with a 45. maybe sever. but I can get perfect cuts with a torch at any thickness
@@Sicktrickintuner yea but that wasn’t a 2” hole or annular cutter… it was hardly 1” …if I had to guess it was 3/4” +/- So like I said, a 1”x1” annular cutter is $75, not even close to $200…although they do make very expensive cutters, the one in the video is not close to $200.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony I know you have a compressor but does it meet the specs that the hypertherm demands? I watched your rig truck tour video. The point in the comment was that everything could have been done with one tool. And yes the hypertherm 45 will pierce 3/4” plate. In fact I’ve pieced 3/4” 304 plate and made numerous 48” cuts when I was still running just a trailblazer no AirPak. If you can do it all with your torch then why did you use a mag drill and grinder? Plug in they plasma and gouge the welds out, tap the piece off with a hammer and if necessary clean up the last of the filler metal that’s on the parent metal with the gouging mode. Needle scale or wire brush the light slag left behind. You said it yourself that the torch cuts where shitty bc your hand was shaky … well a straight edge guide would’ve worked wonders especially if used with the plasma. You can always upgrade to the hypertherm 65 if material thickness is an issue. All I’m saying is once I brought my plasma out into the field (late 90’s) it was a game changer. I had the MAX40 made by hypertherm, last produced in 1990 I believe. Give me the dimensions of that slot and I’ll post a video of me cutting it with plasma using a conventional air compressor (as opposed to rotary)
You gotta get that compressor fixed bro. Gouging that of would have been less miserable I think possibly. Also have you tried 36 grit sanding pads? No flap disks but the sold sanding pad. They seem to cut the last bit off faster and easier then a hard disk.
Brother, get you some 4.5" flap discs for that last 1/4" of material. Depending on the brand you choose, they hog through some mild steel. My shop purchases the 3M because that's who we have an account with, but I'm sure other brands are worthwhile. Just keep it around 80 or below and let the grinder eat it like a cheese grater. 👌
Great video. Little guys always get the worst jobs. Suggestion: Buy a small auxilliary battery for your phone. I bought one for my buddys daughter, She luvs it.
Good job! But Carbon arc gouge is the solution. Grinding that metal is torture! Sometimes you have to disconnect and cap some hydraulic lines for access but its part of the job. I get stuck with these heavy truck jobs daily.
Juat curious, do you lease any equipment? I don't know how you can accumulate so many specialized tools out on your own. Wither way cool channelnand cool toys.
We use a 3M cubeatron grinding wheel, they are a very aggressive grinding wheel. They can grind off ¼" in about a minute just be careful not to gouge out the metal. As far as I know they make them in 4 ½ and 6" they work really good at grinding off big globs of shit 👍
Carbon arc gouge with a flat electrode. Use a bunch of heavy aluminum foil to cover everything around the area to be ground. If you have the forethought, always keep heavy foil several rolls of it. Not the stuff you buy from target, go to a commercial kitchen supplier for wide rolls. If you have the forethought and the cash, get stainless foil rolls from somewhere that sells to places that do heat treating. Make sure you get kevlar cut resistant gloves, that heavy stainless foil will slice right through TIG gloves or shop gloves. Another way would be a heavy die grinder with a double cut carbide burr.
Other than an Arc Gouger not sure of spelling , but that a big amp welder and lots of Air pressure, Not sure what you have for a compressor , I only used an Arc gouger once on a huge cast block , I gouged out a crack in the water jacket on the side of a huge MAC diesel and welded it up , one of those < well its broke and worthless now so anything you try is worth it, Unfortunately the weld was great but it was leaking some how internal and still had water in a cylinder, WHICH might have been been able to find it pulling the sleeves out and keep going but unless I owned the block I don't think they wanted to spend any more money on it, it was a cheap quick fix or replace it which is the way they were already headed, As a Mechanic Welder Fabricator I always wen to for the fix keep going , if it was my wallet its different .. DID I answer your question on the grinding the Frame ideas ? rambling
Love the content . Ima welder myself and do mobile as well. And those tight spaces make for interesting work. But the reward of completing it is mentally a pat on the back and the payment is cushion in your wallet. Keep it coming 💪🏾
Pferd victograin abrasive is the way to whip off material... the vibration isn't nearly the same as other abrasive disks, and the amount of time to remove material is drastically reduced
wash the weld. turn your oxygen up till it whistles and heat the metal out till it runs like water without the triger. this allows you to wash away the excess metal without gouging the steel you want to keep. you can get so close that you dont need to grind at all.
If you cut from the side of the clip you can wash away where the weld didn't penetrate which is usually most of the metal. Don't know if it would have helped here.
As to the Torch Cut Remnants, If you can order them in your Area, Keep one or Two High Removal Rate Gridning Discs on the truck you save just for situations like this. The Walter "Xcavator" Grinding Disc cuts the Grinding time down allot, and if you are only using them in hard situations like this, its worth the price tag, if you can't Get them in your area, Sait Also makes one Called the Sait "Ultimate Grind Ceramic". Super High Removal rate with those Two Discs.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony Also, what might be worth your time is to look into a Miller Weld Mask or Weld mask 2. Or a pair of Lincoln Arc Specs. I work at a a shipyard, and tight spots where the forehead of your helmet keep you from seeing are an every day occurrence. Having the ability to get your head right up past frames/ Hydraulic Lines or Hoses is really really useful. Worth the Price Tag, buy it once, throw it in the truck with some spare Watch Batteries and forget about it, Until the day it is the difference between getting the job Done and not, then its worth its weight in gold! Do you move the 302 around from truck to truck, or do you just rock the Lincoln on one and then 302 on the other?
“So NEVER ASK WHY A MOBILE WELDER IS EXPENSIVE” 😂 right freaking on. 💪🏾💪🏾
I like that you show "real life welding"! I've been crammed into tight spots welding junk back together so I feel your pain. Keep up the good work!
Excellent job I've been welding on equipment for going on 50 years and you are part of a handful of welders that can do this type of work.people like us keep the job going great work my man
Are you 85?
Usually when I weld on a truck, it's to tight for my hood, so I use a "welders full face head sock", and a "rectangular oxy/acetylene goggles" with auto darkening lens, then you can get right in there. GREAT Job. Thanks
You have clients (they entrust you with your skills to provide a service) a customer selects an item and purchases it - this is the reason I differentiate - you are doing fine work and the videos are good and well narrated
Scarfing/gouging tips are kind of hard to find for torches these days but they are totally worth it. It is way easier to wash 1/4” off with the scarfing tip than grinding.
I have had some jobs like this. It can really test your patience. For the grinding try some 3m cubitron sanding disc they are amazing trust me.
Used to do a lot of work like this while was in Afghanistan for the army, and hell I was not even a welder! Lol I feel for ya brother and having someone else get rid of that last 1/4 is easiest way! Lol keep up the good work man good vids👍🏻
Army has welding jobs where do I sign ?
@@darshay4021 marines had welders as well very few but it’s an mos
Good job brother a tip for you on straight good torch cuts that I always do if possible is use a straight edge like a piece of angle iron clamped to the piece I'm cutting and I always preheat the piece prior to cutting it it always makes a little bit cleaner of a cut good work though man keep on trucking!
Scarfing tips my guy, wonderful tool for the Arsenal. And also sometimes a straight torch like IC Weld uses, can’t say for sure if you could’ve used one here but sometimes it pays to have it in the bag
He has them. He did a video on them before🤷🏽♂️
I use a Hypertherm 45XP and the HyAccess Kit with a gouging tip. Works great for limited access jobs for both cutting and gouging.
i was saying what you said. drape some leather where you can and sheer off the excess with a hypotherm. then fine tune it with a good pneumatic paint buster with a sanding wheel.
Hello from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada. Really enjoy your video's, you give your viewers a true look at your profession no sugar coating. Glad I found your channel. Take care.
It's nice to see none shop welding videos. I work on small engine equipment and often times have to weld them. If you go to a welding program or watch other videos you can learn a whole lot of welding techniques that work 0% of the time for my use. Thanks for the good tips
anytime!
Well Meltin Metal, looked like a job that was indeed sketchy!! I am sure that the welds and fit were perfect but I really wanted that final shot!! Doin’ what you do and filming there’s nothing easy about it! Regardless of the final shot, great stuff. OH YEA, mag drill $1000, bits $200 as you toss the cutter on the steel bumper!! True real life there! Love it!
You are an amazing problem solver Anthony.
I use a cutting wheel for excess steel removal in those situations as well. I've found that using a brand new hard stone and sort of using the sharp ninety degree edge to gouge into works too. If you have allot to remove you may use a few new stones but once the edge is rounded just take it off and save it for later. Ideally tho, if I can get a good view and position on it (which you didn't have here) I just use the torch and be very gentle with the oxy blast at about a 45 degree angle to the material and you can just "shave" it of the top of your base material in shallow layers if that makes any sense. It works really well especially if you just got done cutting the bulk of and it's already preheated.
Pretty ruff job, Good call on doing the torch work before l the grinding makes you shaky,
always think of those things after you have finished grinding, Great job fabricating the new Bracket, . Nice work
As a factory worker, I have alot of experience cutting big machines apart for repairs or because it was built improperly. It is very important to try to save both peices without leaving a huge gap when you go to put it back on, as you already know.
I personally like to make the cut with a "flush-cut tip" or a "scarfing/gouging tip"
it has a 90 degree bend in the tip and/or a beveled tip allowing you to cut down to a 16th of an inch without even coming close to gouging the parent material. you can basically do it in a way that you only lose 1/8th or 3/16ths and only have to grind off a 16th
also 36 grit sanding pads on an high rpm electric grinder with a rubber backing pad will take off material 3 or 4x faster than a 9 inch grinder with 50 lbs of weight bearing down on the material.
WEAR PPE BECAUSE IF THE DISC EXPLODES IT WILL HURT AGAINST BARE SKIN
Looks like you handled it well and your to hard on your self its fantastic work Spot on and as Paul has said we know you’ve had harder jobs than that to do and deal with. Keep up the great work👍👍👍
It's awesome getting on TH-cam and watching ur videos man it makes me see that my dream of welding on my own is getting closer and closer I can't wait love ur advice and all the tricks I learn from you the sheetrock square is one I love you showed never thought of that keep it up man
You did it and made it work . Thank you for sharing the struggles and The win . Great work ..
I wonder if a carbon arc gouger would have saved you some time. Nice work Anthony
For grinding things flat get your self a 5 inch sanding pad with 36 grit pads and an 11 amp paddle switch grinder. Removes metal hella good and keeps it relatively flat compared to a sanding disc
I've been in that type situation with the grinder..and torch..you may want to explore different options on abrasives? Have a few " high dollar" " high performance " ones in the box for b.s. spots...the torch...lol..the OLDER you get ...the more shaking you'll have! You did good man. Thanks for sharing...you won
Love the t-shirt! When my grandparents lived in FL we’d go to Joe’s Crab Shack every time we visited!
I feel like 36 grit or even a bit finer flap discs are the quickest abrasives to really chew through the material. They are far more expensive and don’t last nearly as long as a hard stone grinding disc but on a piece job it gets you to the next job quicker. Letting the flap disc do the work and not adding excessive pressure helps the life span of them but when you gotta hog out a lot of material just work them into the price. I used to use the trough trick with a cutoff wheel and it helps but doesn’t seem to speed up the removal process with the extra time of trough cutting.
I just used a 40 grit flap on a project today for the first time. I'm never buying hard grinding discs again. Surface finish was way better and it was hogging out material at least as fast as a grinding disc. Time is money and customers like this one would gladly pay the
@@BainRacing134 I got a Walter excavator grinding disc from fab tech expo when they just released them. They remove a serious amount of material. It really hurts to use it without a face shield or long sleeves since it launches chunks of metal at you. I use it sparingly because of this but when I need to take off a lot of stuff it’s a beast. Walter grinding discs are second to none.
The intro is pretty bad ass ! Sweet shots love it !
Excellent real world video Anthony! 🤘🏼☠️🤘🏼
This is tough work . You did a good job . I think you would really benefit from watching an oldtimer use the torch. Still good video
Think I have said this before but. As you say mag drills are a must have. I bought the cheapest mag drill on Amazon and have used it heavily for 3 months. $380.00 delivered including tax and I am very impressed. Also bought a set of annuar bits 1/2" to 1 1/16" for $89.00 deliveed, work great. Didn't buy the jacobs chuck for it it because it had many bad reviews.
That was a hard job
Good on you for getting it done
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Real deal glad I found your channel.
When I heard you were taking on the job … I kinda figured it get done right !
You remind me of Marty , from ,”Back to the Future.” LoL
I may take my grinder out tomorrow , found a piece of painted and rusted , square bar in the desert , gonna see if I can shiny it up and cut 45’s to make a rectangle from the straight piece.
I have metal grinding wheel and Acito g wheels. Never used the grinder yet. Brand new.
Can’t weld yet , waiting for gas.
Cool video.
Get fluxcore wire
Most of my welds are on finished cars in an auto manufacturing setting. My first rule of welding on cars, truck, equipment is not to set it on fire. I use a fire blanket most of the time. It works well and I can cut it into whatever shape I need. I’d use a cutting disc or flapper disc on a grinder to clean up what the torch couldn’t get.
good rule
When welding on vehicle what’s your opinion on disconnecting the batteries/avoiding potential ecu damage?
Great content brotha! Shout out from a mobile welder myself out of central TX. Ive had repairs just like this and as far as those tight areas to remove metal ur best bet is a grinder. But I swear the grade grinding disc makes a world of a difference. I hate grinding and cant wait to get it over with...I use the threaded Cubitron 3m discs. I say threaded because it allows disc to be brought further away and grind easier in tight areas like that. Yes they are pricey but they get down to it. I use all 11 amp paddle switch Dewalt grinders and they have payed off greatly.
I understand one has to remain hard on urself to keep perfecting ur skills but brotha you are doing a great job! I too run a 302 miller in the field and i love how it doesn't chug fuel like a 305 Lincoln. Has never let me down in the field, although i did have rheostat go bad once so far but it's been golden ever since. What brand was that grinder you had? I need that added to my field repair weaponry lol.
Oh yeah and would have loved to have seen the end result. I will suggest buying a external battery you can keep plugged into you're phone when u aren't recording in field or buying a phone case that has battery built in.
Jose
R innovation mobile welding TX
It’s a metabo grinder, I don’t remember what they call the extended reach version. It very well could be the extended reach…
You could use a Scarfing tip on the torch too remove the weld
for working around corners, what do you think about using fpv goggles and a wireless camera?
Difficult and tricky work in those situations. Well done!
Your layout skills are very impressive!
Thank you very much!
PFERD 5"" CC-Grind-Solid best grinding wheel i have found. Dont need too much pressure and it eats the metal
Nice video and I love stuff like this yeah it’s hard but it’s enjoyable. But I’m curious how do you store your rods here in Florida there is so much moisture in the air here.
07:50, after using a grinder one's hands become all jittery, that's so true. There has to be a methodical process of what to do first prior to the next step.
I like burr bits with a 90° pneumatic burr motor for tight spots. I also have a straight one since some tight spots won't work with a 90. The extended burr bits are nice too.
Try Pferd new grinding wheels. They are called Victo Grain. They chew through metal without applying a lot of pressure. I’ve used some of them in my last few jobs and I’m liking the results.
Maybe set up a bit more leather in there to guard against the blast of a plasma cutter to get that last little bit of torch cut then a pneumatic sander with a heavy grit wheel? Cool video . I did a LITTLE of the steel work on municipal snow plows and i know the space you were in and how tight that working area was with all the shit you gotta avoid to not damage other systems. Keep up the great content!
that is tough stuff. I redid the back end of a gmc.. all hangers included. You then have to wonder if it kept the same temper. slow cool is the safest bet.. that florida weather is forever frames anyway. In maine I have cooled stuff down too quick on a summer 40f evening. It comes back to bite.
if you get chance buy some makita grinding disks. They are very aggressive and remove metal faster than any other disk ive ever used. Keep up the good content.
Hey boss Anthony, did you bevel out the bracket or just butt weld on the base metal? Wish you had more pics of the job. Wanting to start my own company and wondering how you welded it up. Thanks bro.
butt weld. thats how it was orginally construction
I've had good results removing old welds with a gouging tip on the gas ax. You can literally wash the old weld and previous part right off the parent metal with very little if any damage to the parent metal. Sooo much less grinding. Your hands will thank you.
Do you unplug batteries on trucks before you weld on them
but of course
Huge suggestion my man on the grinding- buy 3m cubitron "cut and grind" wheels and cubitron 4-1/2" sanding wheels not flap disks. Im not in any way affiliated with 3m- ive literally tested every brand on the market and the 36 grit cubitron 3m sanding disk out performed 6 to 1 or much high for longevity and insanely faster then the nearest competitor like norton.
ill give them a shot! thanks!
Rapid cut or rapid strip grinding disc's, they are amazing and cut grinding time in half when I go in the shop I'll look at the name again
When I need to torch something really close to the base metal I'll take the finest tip I have like 00 stick the tip in the hole on top of a crescent wrench put a slight bend not too much or it'll break but a slight bend like a washing tip and then angle your torch for a closer cut
I'm with you all the way
Try to get some pics or video footage of it when your nearby or have some extra time! I’m really curious how it came out I’ve turned down similar jobs because I didn’t feel confident in how exactly to mock everything up and The way I work is very similar to the way you things I’m just nowhere near as good as you when it comes to professionalism and equipment. I have a tiny little pickup truck and a 220v mig welder getting a bottle soon tho so I can finally start double shielding my welds. I think I will forever use flux core wire and just add some gas to ensure the sterilization of my welds.
hay man
i enjoyed your vedios so much
here is something you can invest in if you get to "blind grind, blind weld or blind to anything" or even check out shit before starting the job/taking stuff apartment
get your self a USBc borescope (the longer the better) 5m+ that pice of equipment costs less then 50$ and its very essential for me (food production line welder)
i hook it up to my phone and check shit itln tight places before taking something a part or just use my phone as a very finder for blind work
it takes very little practice to get used to
hope this is useful to you
good luck
thats awesome ill check that out!
Carbon arc rods work great for getting that last bit off. It’s easy to get places other tools can’t too.
Hey man best way I found to remove alot of material after cutting that witha touch use a flat gouging rod 3/8ths minimal grinding less damage to frame also from experience don't flapper wheel a frame u take more material than u expect
Also i hate mag drills soon as u get oil over the vase and shaving cover it it or the metal isn't true ferrous it doesn't dtick resulting in bossy clamps to hold it there heavy and sometimes move but yes try drilling that hole witha regular drill and yup there goes an hour or two
Do you have an air compressor and a welder capable of 200+ amps? Maybe try a gouge rig?
Arc gouge that is. Not a scarfing tip
Cool video! Really enjoying your content. Can't wait for the next one.
Do your self a favor and buy a used or brand new hypertherm 45 and a no frills 60 gallon air compressor that can do about 15 cfm at 90 psi. Cut that plate off, switch over to gouging and wash away anything that’s left over. Hit it with a needle scaler to clean up. No grinding off excess steel that get left behind after torch cutting. Any mobile rig needs plasma and air compressor. Also not sure where you get annular cutters but I just bought 4) 1”x4” carbide tipped cutter for $100 each. Regular 1” hougen is $75 at most.
All depends on size, 2” here is just about $200 and they start at about $75-80 for the small ones
I have a compressor, you guys always assume I don't have certain tools cause you can't see em 😉 and you can cut 3/4 with a 45. maybe sever. but I can get perfect cuts with a torch at any thickness
@@Sicktrickintuner yea but that wasn’t a 2” hole or annular cutter… it was hardly 1” …if I had to guess it was 3/4” +/- So like I said, a 1”x1” annular cutter is $75, not even close to $200…although they do make very expensive cutters, the one in the video is not close to $200.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony I know you have a compressor but does it meet the specs that the hypertherm demands? I watched your rig truck tour video. The point in the comment was that everything could have been done with one tool. And yes the hypertherm 45 will pierce 3/4” plate. In fact I’ve pieced 3/4” 304 plate and made numerous 48” cuts when I was still running just a trailblazer no AirPak. If you can do it all with your torch then why did you use a mag drill and grinder? Plug in they plasma and gouge the welds out, tap the piece off with a hammer and if necessary clean up the last of the filler metal that’s on the parent metal with the gouging mode. Needle scale or wire brush the light slag left behind. You said it yourself that the torch cuts where shitty bc your hand was shaky … well a straight edge guide would’ve worked wonders especially if used with the plasma. You can always upgrade to the hypertherm 65 if material thickness is an issue. All I’m saying is once I brought my plasma out into the field (late 90’s) it was a game changer. I had the MAX40 made by hypertherm, last produced in 1990 I believe. Give me the dimensions of that slot and I’ll post a video of me cutting it with plasma using a conventional air compressor (as opposed to rotary)
How about using mirror, like stainless polished for getting a better view in weird spaces.
Die grinder with a carbide burr eats through metal but takes a fair bit of pressure, would have been difficult in that spot.
You gotta get that compressor fixed bro. Gouging that of would have been less miserable I think possibly. Also have you tried 36 grit sanding pads? No flap disks but the sold sanding pad. They seem to cut the last bit off faster and easier then a hard disk.
Good content indeed everyday stuff love it!💪💯
Brother, get you some 4.5" flap discs for that last 1/4" of material. Depending on the brand you choose, they hog through some mild steel. My shop purchases the 3M because that's who we have an account with, but I'm sure other brands are worthwhile. Just keep it around 80 or below and let the grinder eat it like a cheese grater. 👌
Great video. Little guys always get the worst jobs. Suggestion: Buy a small auxilliary battery for your phone. I bought one for my buddys daughter, She luvs it.
Good job! But Carbon arc gouge is the solution. Grinding that metal is torture! Sometimes you have to disconnect and cap some hydraulic lines for access but its part of the job. I get stuck with these heavy truck jobs daily.
Juat curious, do you lease any equipment? I don't know how you can accumulate so many specialized tools out on your own. Wither way cool channelnand cool toys.
We use a 3M cubeatron grinding wheel, they are a very aggressive grinding wheel. They can grind off ¼" in about a minute just be careful not to gouge out the metal. As far as I know they make them in 4 ½ and 6" they work really good at grinding off big globs of shit 👍
Carbon arc gouge with a flat electrode. Use a bunch of heavy aluminum foil to cover everything around the area to be ground. If you have the forethought, always keep heavy foil several rolls of it. Not the stuff you buy from target, go to a commercial kitchen supplier for wide rolls. If you have the forethought and the cash, get stainless foil rolls from somewhere that sells to places that do heat treating. Make sure you get kevlar cut resistant gloves, that heavy stainless foil will slice right through TIG gloves or shop gloves. Another way would be a heavy die grinder with a double cut carbide burr.
Shenandoah, you must be in Fort Myers. The company I work for services their sewer trucks out of Fort Pierce
I used to live in ft pierce in northern maine now haha
Norton Fiber Disc and 3m Cubitron 2 fibre disk are my go to or if you have the room General Purpose Grinding Cup Stones are bad ass .
Not bad torch cuts... especially you doing it freehand.
honestly those are some of the worst ive done. I got a decent torch hand
4:55 "I can get one of these motherfuckers to come over here and help you" lol
I like an air arc gauger for getting the the shitty bits done instead of grinding forever or even some angle tips for the oxy.
Other than an Arc Gouger not sure of spelling , but that a big amp welder and lots of Air pressure, Not sure what you have for a compressor , I only used an Arc gouger once on a huge cast block , I gouged out a crack in the water jacket on the side of a huge MAC diesel and welded it up , one of those < well its broke and worthless now so anything you try is worth it, Unfortunately the weld was great but it was leaking some how internal and still had water in a cylinder, WHICH might have been been able to find it pulling the sleeves out and keep going but unless I owned the block I don't think they wanted to spend any more money on it, it was a cheap quick fix or replace it which is the way they were already headed,
As a Mechanic Welder Fabricator I always wen to for the fix keep going , if it was my wallet its different .. DID I answer your question on the grinding the Frame ideas ? rambling
NICE JOB
Love the content .
Ima welder myself and do mobile as well.
And those tight spaces make for interesting work.
But the reward of completing it is mentally a pat on the back and the payment is cushion in your wallet.
Keep it coming 💪🏾
Pferd victograin abrasive is the way to whip off material... the vibration isn't nearly the same as other abrasive disks, and the amount of time to remove material is drastically reduced
You should get a portable charger for your phone those things are life savers. Just food for thought. Other then that solid video man!
That's funny. You are doing a job in the little neighborhood I grew up in. What are the chances?
thanks for share
well done
wash the weld. turn your oxygen up till it whistles and heat the metal out till it runs like water without the triger. this allows you to wash away the excess metal without gouging the steel you want to keep. you can get so close that you dont need to grind at all.
Anthony get some fiberglass welding blankets on your truck for the next time you don't want to burn or melt something.
If you cut from the side of the clip you can wash away where the weld didn't penetrate which is usually most of the metal. Don't know if it would have helped here.
Grinding by braille......lol
I do that all the time, working in enclosed spaces.
I use a scarf tip to get right close to the base material
spray paint as a template maker. genius. so much more accurate that trying to stuff a marker or soapstone in the holes.
👍🏼👍🏼 MM77 Approved
Love from India
When I have to grind alot I prefer to use 3m cubiton discs with ceramic or 3m silver discs with ceramic. Takes off alot of material with little effort
As to the Torch Cut Remnants, If you can order them in your Area, Keep one or Two High Removal Rate Gridning Discs on the truck you save just for situations like this.
The Walter "Xcavator" Grinding Disc cuts the Grinding time down allot, and if you are only using them in hard situations like this, its worth the price tag, if you can't Get them in your area, Sait Also makes one Called the Sait "Ultimate Grind Ceramic".
Super High Removal rate with those Two Discs.
im gonna look into that!
@@MeltinMetalAnthony Also, what might be worth your time is to look into a Miller Weld Mask or Weld mask 2.
Or a pair of Lincoln Arc Specs.
I work at a a shipyard, and tight spots where the forehead of your helmet keep you from seeing are an every day occurrence.
Having the ability to get your head right up past frames/ Hydraulic Lines or Hoses is really really useful. Worth the Price Tag, buy it once, throw it in the truck with some spare Watch Batteries and forget about it, Until the day it is the difference between getting the job Done and not, then its worth its weight in gold!
Do you move the 302 around from truck to truck, or do you just rock the Lincoln on one and then 302 on the other?
helps to pack some tin strips around bend em tack em clamp em what ever it takes to deflet sparks. air lines on big rigs punture from every lil spark.
Gotta love the Joe’s Crab Shack shirt. Wish tht place didn’t close
Might try arc gouging it with a small rod or even wash it with a flat rod
use cardboard to make templates to ensure a really close fit?
I'm always curious why you don't use a plasma cutter is it could you don't have the electric power to run it