I found about 30 of these about 5” long in an antique store in a box. I talked them down to $90 for all of them. I made a handle that will take all of them in for use. I thought I got a good deal. 😊
Last time I bought some, they were $30 for a 1 inch by 3 inch long by 1/8 inch thick. That was at least 15 years ago. You got a good deal. I did find out that you can use a couple of strands of silver solder wire, and tap them down a bit flat first with a hammer. You just can't wick the solder all the way across the 1 inch wide pieces. Have fun!
Brazing: I think of this as what you do to put carbide tips on the circular saw, and am pretty sure that silver soldering is a different process, but all I really know about metal is how to grind it. AG Wesson will sell single pieces. They come in 6 inch lengths. I score across the middle, standard grinding wheel or square edge CBN wheel, put it in a vice at the score line, put cloth over it (no flying shards) and push from the score side. I don't intend to make them for sale as I would have to retail them pretty high, like $100 or so for a 1 inch wide one, and most will want to make their own. I consider it a good club project because just about every club will have some one with torch skills. I may have some for the Atlanta Symposium in June, not sure though...
Oh yea, shear scraping.. I use this more for heavy stock removal. The tantung is slightly more coarse than most HSS or the micro grained carbides, and as near as I can tell, it doesn't take as fine of an edge as the other metals do. I haven't tried my 600 grit CBN wheel on it yet though, and the 600 grit makes a big difference on shear scraping burrs on my scrapers. Cuts much more cleanly than 80 or 180 burrs, but doesn't make a good heavy roughing burr.
So, Mr Robo, it appears that this video is to help us make our own Big Ugly, but if we're not able to do that, and you do not make and sell (not on your website), which commercially available scraper most closely resembles the Big Ugly. I watched your bowl roughing video and love the way it works. Thanks for all your videos.
+Mike Porter The requests to make these was way beyond my expectations. I plan to get some done in time for the Atlanta Symposium in June, and may carry them regularly. No idea on what they will cost.
OK, sign me up when you're ready. I won't be in Atlanta. Hmmm, maybe I'll ask Mike Meredith of NWWT to pick one up for me! I think he's going. Thanks again.
+Mike Porter I'm down in Eugene. You up in Portland area? I do travel up there some times, and shop is open most of the time. My e-mail link is on my web site, icon in corner of the video screen.
Nice Vid. Noted all the comments. I can't weld and if map gas doesn't work, then pretty much out of reach for me. I have made a number of carbide (and high speed ss) tips which are easy enough and if you buy the tips directly from a major supplier, they are only a couple of £ each. Seems a hell of a lot cheaper than the tangtung, never mind trying to find that in Europe. Pity as I would have liked such a heavy duty tool. Thanks again for showing us how though. Cheers
I don't sell them any more. If I sold them to make a business out of it, cost for the blank would have been well over $100. Some times you can find tantung on Craigslist. Buying individual pieces from the makers is expensive. The JB weld did not hold up.
I remember Bob Tuck talking about the scrapers they used in his myrtle wood shop years and years ago. The plywood aprons they used to wear sort of gave me pause though. I see that these are not quite the brute force tools i thought they were. Would a MAP torch be hot enough to make the solder joint? Great job, Reed. Thanks.
+TheDoctorswoodshop There has been discussion about this, and I am no expert. From what I have heard, the old MAP torches would get it hot enough, but they changed them a while back, and with the new version, it is very difficult to impossible to do. Even with the older ones, it was difficult.
Why dont you try useing half round steel for the shaft? You would then have the flat surface for applying the stellite, or whatever, but you will also have the ability to roll the tool when turning. The half round would have a much shallower curve than round stock, so should be stable in most orientations.
One problem with the half round stock. This would be identical to the Thompson Fluteless gouge. As long as it is a straight in cut, it will work, but if you are cutting with one edge or the other and scraping or sweeping, the tool wants to roll, which means it can work, but for heavy duty scraping roughing cuts, you need the flat bar with slightly rounded edges for shear cutting and shear scraping.
Hi Reed i have an old Rockwell/Delta 46-111 wood lathe. they have the nuts on the tail stock and banjo that have to be loosened and tightened every time you have to change positions. Do you know if anyone has changed the banjo to a cam clamp type? I wouldn't mess with the tail stock because of having trouble matching the point to the headstock point. I am tired of spending time using the little wrench all the time.
Not sure on that one... Easiest way to do it would be to get a banjo from another lathe and make sure the bottom pressure plate will fit in the ways of your lathe. You may need a longer bolt. Most manufacturers will sell a separate banjo. I do prefer the Robust ones, but their smallest lathe is for a 14 inch throw.
Hi Zetus Kid. Your question about building a cam clamp banjo is four years old but if you are still interested, I have a 4600 Rockwell gap bed lathe that is very similar to yours and recently I built a new banjo. Start with channel iron 1 1/4" x 3" x 11". Cut two small plates 1/8" thick (or more) for the ends and drill a 5/8" hole in both. Cut a 1" shaft the length of the inside between the installed front/back. Weld a 5/8" shaft 2" long on the ends of the 1" shaft by laying the both on a flat surface (not concentric) so you end up with a cam shaft. Put a 1" length of pipe over the 1" cam shaft, weld a nut on the pipe with a hole drilled in it for the bolt that will come up through your existing lathe bed bottom slide for the banjo. Weld the front plate on, install the cam shaft through the front of the channel, insert the back plate over the cam shaft and bolt the back plate on. Install a front handle for turning the cam shaft. I've used mine for 40 hours now and it's saved me 10 hours in banjo adjustments. Should have done this in the '80s when the lathe was new. I have pics if you need. It's well worth the effort and makes turning wood double the fun.
I don't think I used cold rolled, but that is a possibility. I would think mild steel would work fine. I prefer 5/16 for the 1 inch wide pieces, and 1/4 for the 3/4 wide pieces.
You can sharpen it fine on standard grinding wheels. I sharpen on CBN wheels, but make sure to have most of the softer metal ground off. The Tantung will keep the softer metal from loading up the wheel.
I found about 30 of these about 5” long in an antique store in a box. I talked them down to $90 for all of them. I made a handle that will take all of them in for use. I thought I got a good deal. 😊
Last time I bought some, they were $30 for a 1 inch by 3 inch long by 1/8 inch thick. That was at least 15 years ago. You got a good deal. I did find out that you can use a couple of strands of silver solder wire, and tap them down a bit flat first with a hammer. You just can't wick the solder all the way across the 1 inch wide pieces. Have fun!
A great how to video Reed, resulting in what looks like one helluva sturdy tool.
Cheers
Mike
a
buib
Brazing: I think of this as what you do to put carbide tips on the circular saw, and am pretty sure that silver soldering is a different process, but all I really know about metal is how to grind it. AG Wesson will sell single pieces. They come in 6 inch lengths. I score across the middle, standard grinding wheel or square edge CBN wheel, put it in a vice at the score line, put cloth over it (no flying shards) and push from the score side. I don't intend to make them for sale as I would have to retail them pretty high, like $100 or so for a 1 inch wide one, and most will want to make their own. I consider it a good club project because just about every club will have some one with torch skills. I may have some for the Atlanta Symposium in June, not sure though...
Oh yea, shear scraping.. I use this more for heavy stock removal. The tantung is slightly more coarse than most HSS or the micro grained carbides, and as near as I can tell, it doesn't take as fine of an edge as the other metals do. I haven't tried my 600 grit CBN wheel on it yet though, and the 600 grit makes a big difference on shear scraping burrs on my scrapers. Cuts much more cleanly than 80 or 180 burrs, but doesn't make a good heavy roughing burr.
So, Mr Robo, it appears that this video is to help us make our own Big Ugly, but if we're not able to do that, and you do not make and sell (not on your website), which commercially available scraper most closely resembles the Big Ugly. I watched your bowl roughing video and love the way it works. Thanks for all your videos.
+Mike Porter The requests to make these was way beyond my expectations. I plan to get some done in time for the Atlanta Symposium in June, and may carry them regularly. No idea on what they will cost.
OK, sign me up when you're ready. I won't be in Atlanta. Hmmm, maybe I'll ask Mike Meredith of NWWT to pick one up for me! I think he's going. Thanks again.
+Mike Porter I'm down in Eugene. You up in Portland area? I do travel up there some times, and shop is open most of the time. My e-mail link is on my web site, icon in corner of the video screen.
Yep, Beaverton area. So, we'll meet up one of these days. I'm a relative newbie at this but soaking up all the good stuff I can!
Nice Vid. Noted all the comments. I can't weld and if map gas doesn't work, then pretty much out of reach for me. I have made a number of carbide (and high speed ss) tips which are easy enough and if you buy the tips directly from a major supplier, they are only a couple of £ each. Seems a hell of a lot cheaper than the tangtung, never mind trying to find that in Europe. Pity as I would have liked such a heavy duty tool. Thanks again for showing us how though. Cheers
I wouldn't mind seeing a Video of you using this tool. i would like to see it in action . Thank you for the Video
+Jason W Jason, I will do a short one and have it up next week hopefully. The tool is a scraper.
interesting thanks for showing another way of making your tools
this is a life changer man!
Another informative video. Interesting stuff, thanks for posting.
Great video Robo Cheers
REED, how did the j/b weld work on the tantung....Can you tell me where i can buy tantung??
love your videos
Now I understand more. Does he ever sell these tools? I like the JB idea, I can do that. My Prestolite wouldn’t cut it on such large pieces.
I don't sell them any more. If I sold them to make a business out of it, cost for the blank would have been well over $100. Some times you can find tantung on Craigslist. Buying individual pieces from the makers is expensive. The JB weld did not hold up.
I remember Bob Tuck talking about the scrapers they used in his myrtle wood shop years and years ago. The plywood aprons they used to wear sort of gave me pause though. I see that these are not quite the brute force tools i thought they were. Would a MAP torch be hot enough to make the solder joint? Great job, Reed. Thanks.
+TheDoctorswoodshop There has been discussion about this, and I am no expert. From what I have heard, the old MAP torches would get it hot enough, but they changed them a while back, and with the new version, it is very difficult to impossible to do. Even with the older ones, it was difficult.
Why dont you try useing half round steel for the shaft?
You would then have the flat surface for applying the stellite, or whatever, but you will also have the ability to roll the tool when turning. The half round would have a much shallower curve than round stock, so should be stable in most orientations.
One problem with the half round stock. This would be identical to the Thompson Fluteless gouge. As long as it is a straight in cut, it will work, but if you are cutting with one edge or the other and scraping or sweeping, the tool wants to roll, which means it can work, but for heavy duty scraping roughing cuts, you need the flat bar with slightly rounded edges for shear cutting and shear scraping.
Thanks Robo for the video.... But I don't have the equipment.... How, where can I buy a 3/4" Big Ugly?????
Thanks for that. Looks like a tool that takes no prisoners.Is it a shear scrapper.
thanks for the words of caution about CBN wheels.
Nice demo. Do you happen to have a source that you can recommend for the tantung or stellite? I've had trouble finding it in small quantities.
+Adze Woodturning I just realized that Reed put a link to vrwesson.com for tantung in the link.
Hi Reed
i have an old Rockwell/Delta 46-111 wood lathe. they have the nuts on the tail stock and banjo that have to be loosened and tightened every time you have to change positions. Do you know if anyone has changed the banjo to a cam clamp type? I wouldn't mess with the tail stock because of having trouble matching the point to the headstock point. I am tired of spending time using the little wrench all the time.
Not sure on that one... Easiest way to do it would be to get a banjo from another lathe and make sure the bottom pressure plate will fit in the ways of your lathe. You may need a longer bolt. Most manufacturers will sell a separate banjo. I do prefer the Robust ones, but their smallest lathe is for a 14 inch throw.
robohippy thanks a bunch, buddy.
Hi Zetus Kid. Your question about building a cam clamp banjo is four years old but if you are still interested, I have a 4600 Rockwell gap bed lathe that is very similar to yours and recently I built a new banjo. Start with channel iron 1 1/4" x 3" x 11". Cut two small plates 1/8" thick (or more) for the ends and drill a 5/8" hole in both. Cut a 1" shaft the length of the inside between the installed front/back. Weld a 5/8" shaft 2" long on the ends of the 1" shaft by laying the both on a flat surface (not concentric) so you end up with a cam shaft. Put a 1" length of pipe over the 1" cam shaft, weld a nut on the pipe with a hole drilled in it for the bolt that will come up through your existing lathe bed bottom slide for the banjo. Weld the front plate on, install the cam shaft through the front of the channel, insert the back plate over the cam shaft and bolt the back plate on. Install a front handle for turning the cam shaft.
I've used mine for 40 hours now and it's saved me 10 hours in banjo adjustments. Should have done this in the '80s when the lathe was new. I have pics if you need. It's well worth the effort and makes turning wood double the fun.
What type of steel are you using to silver solder the tang tung too? Probably spelled wrong. Thanks
Is it a hard type or a mild steel? Thanks
I don't think I used cold rolled, but that is a possibility. I would think mild steel would work fine. I prefer 5/16 for the 1 inch wide pieces, and 1/4 for the 3/4 wide pieces.
You got me hooked! Now where can I buy some?
They are up on my web site. I have the Tantung and silver solder ribbon as well. Only one of the 1 inch wide ones in stock, but getting more made.
Nice video.
That what you did you go there, I know that under the term 'brazing'.
+Günter Schöne I thought brazing was using steel rod as a filler ??? not silver solder
+John horsfall Brazing is using bronze/brass rod, steel filler rod is gas welding, and silver alloy filler is silver soldering.
Thanks for that nice to know .
+John horsfall You can use propane/oxy torch for all but steel filler welding then you need acy/oxy setup
WHERE CAN I BY THE STEEL
Can I sharpen the tantung using a silicon carbide wheel?
You can sharpen it fine on standard grinding wheels. I sharpen on CBN wheels, but make sure to have most of the softer metal ground off. The Tantung will keep the softer metal from loading up the wheel.
@@robohippy , thanks, and I really like your tool rests that I received a month ago.
Mr.robo do you make and sell the Big ugly tool and if what is the cost. thanks
Gerard, still trying to figure out how to get it up on the web site. Link in lower right corner of the video. That has contact info in it.
Can these tools be sharpened on a CBN wheel?
Answer is up above
Thank you, I see it now.