Having built out numerous vans, Thinsulate is the best to work with. For the ease of install AND having to remove it when needed when you have to run extra wiring, upgrades.
I couldn’t believe how tough that stuff is. I used a hunk of 14ga wire and zip tied it to a piece of thinsulate and pulled it through the ceiling ribs on our Transit.
My van build many years ago was to use foil-faced fiberglas insulation in the channels, and cover the entire van with wood paneling. Had zero problem with rust or anything.
Thinsulate! Good advice because you only have 1 shot at putting in insulation. Never heard of anyone that regretted going with Thinsulate (other than cost) but every other insulation I’ve seen some problems and regret. Yes it’s more expensive but you’re only doing a small van. For both our builds we used the combination of Reflectix against the skin with 1.75” Thinsulate on top. Fiskars has some relatively inexpensive heavy duty shears that cut the stuff like butter. Better yet are the heavy duty electric shears (on Amazon) that slice through insulation as fast as you can push the shears through the material. So if you have Carpal tunnel, arthritis, weak hands or are just lazy like me, the electric shears are the way to go. You’re going to be cutting about 300+ lineal feet so it’s no easy task. Hand fatigue and blisters are a real thing using manual shears. Fiskars Amplify RazorEdge Fabric Scissors - 10" Heavy Duty Fabric Shears CGOLDENWALL YJ-125A Electric Rotary Fabric Cutter, Multi-layer Fabric Scissors
Getting behind those panels was a job. It's probably why many folks use spray insulation. But you got er done! Your solution looks like a healthier option.
Other than being a job, getting behind those panels is also rather useless. The metal sheets connect with the outside panels, effectively creating a thermal bridge which will get around any insulation you have in between. It's a simple thing, yet few seem to understand it.
I wish I bought the precut kit fpr my sprinter. I did end up going with Rockwool, and sealed it. Think that was still the move even though its not a popular opinion. Good sound deadening, less expensive and maybe better insulating properties than some more popular solutions.
Love the content! 3m thinsulate is definitely good, but spray foam is way, way better. Thinsulate may be hydrophobic, but it is going to allow the metal to sweat, and you will have moisture trapped between it and the metal. Spray foam on the other hand, will actually stop condensation from collecting on the metal. I think you should use both. I went spray foam, foam board + luan for a custom insulated ply-panel, and lambs wool to cram into areas that I need to get back into.
@earlhamil731 those are two user relayed issues. It needs to be mixed properly, and you can't spray too much in confined areas that don't allow it to escape faster than it can expand.
Spray foam is really great but not for DIY. If you can get a professional with a proper compressor mixer to do it for you, it will cost less than DIY and you should have no problems with it. However, it is a permanent solution (one more reason to get it right the first time) and it is a nightmare to deal with if the van ever needs bodywork repairs so most people will get intimidated just by the thought of it.
@spiroszaharakis2648 great feedback, I agree with everything you said except I'd call it an advanced DIY. I did it myself with tanks I got off amazon, but I'm not exactly new to fabrication. The biggest tip I'd have would be use the more condensed spray head and monitor the mixing tip and swap it out every few panels or so. Mine came out great, everyone else's could as well, just put in the homework first. Edit: oh, and don't spray it where your going to want access, like upper and lower horizontal runs, fill those with lambs wool or something alike so you can run wires and have access in the future.
Another great way to get insulation into the small places is to use high strength fishing line with a flag on the end. Then use a shop vac to suck the flag from one end of the cavity to the other. You can then tie the line to a lice of insulation and pull it through.
I like Thinsulate, but I would first use 3M Duck liner against as much of the outer steel as possible, to reduce condensation, it’s self adhesive and easier to install in the areas that you used the spray adhesive. Looking forward to the rest of the build!
Thinsulate might be best if you want to remove it again some day. Overall best for a permanent install is professional sprayfoaming as that actually gets everywhere and doesnt leave any hidden exposed cold metal spots for condensation, itll also insulate better.
Curios about the sound deadening material installed. Why not use a larger amount in the areas you chose to place them? Is the movement occuring within that location as apposed to the outer area? I'm imagining that if I were to press that area you placed the material, that's were more movement occurs.
Thank you for giving an explanation. That makes sense. I was only considering less movement minimal sound, and the placement of the material somehow might stabilize it. Sometimes how I imagine things are way off 😁!
For me, stuffing insulation into a small metal cavity is pointless. The metal will just conduct or bridge heat/cold around the insulation and into/out of the van. Better to use just place a single layer over all metal surfaces.
How do you get a thermal break in an all steel van? Why not use spray on cork insulation like they’re using boats and it’s proven to be the best insulator available far better than any normal spraying toxic foam that’s used in houses in the US and banded in most of the world because of health risks.
@@OKFrax-ys2op it’s an interesting product that does not have to be put on very thick to get very good insulation properties and it’s made from the recycled corks and waste from cork trees.
Why wouldn't you just insulate over everything to build a thermal break since you're going to build up a wall against the metal chassis? This seems... futile.
You don't get good insultation,and you use a lot of interior space doing it that way. The advantage of using insulation over the metal channels is there is no condensation since there is a channel for air to go through.
So weird how unavailable some of the stuff you use in your builds are in australia.. Thinsulate for example seems to be nowhere to be found here.. or even 1010 aluminium which seems to come at an even more expensive price than 2020..
Most spray adhesives are toxic and have warnings on the can to wear a mask. Isn’t it necessary to wear a mask when spraying that adhesive? Hopefully there won’t be any long lasting, lingering effects of breathing the adhesive once you finish and are living in the van.
Having built out numerous vans, Thinsulate is the best to work with. For the ease of install AND having to remove it when needed when you have to run extra wiring, upgrades.
How will he be able to remove it when needed with all that stuffing and contact spray?
Agreed
@@orificiumeasier to deal with than spray foam?
I couldn’t believe how tough that stuff is. I used a hunk of 14ga wire and zip tied it to a piece of thinsulate and pulled it through the ceiling ribs on our Transit.
My van build many years ago was to use foil-faced fiberglas insulation in the channels, and cover the entire van with wood paneling. Had zero problem with rust or anything.
Thinsulate! Good advice because you only have 1 shot at putting in insulation. Never heard of anyone that regretted going with Thinsulate (other than cost) but every other insulation I’ve seen some problems and regret. Yes it’s more expensive but you’re only doing a small van. For both our builds we used the combination of Reflectix against the skin with 1.75” Thinsulate on top. Fiskars has some relatively inexpensive heavy duty shears that cut the stuff like butter. Better yet are the heavy duty electric shears (on Amazon) that slice through insulation as fast as you can push the shears through the material. So if you have Carpal tunnel, arthritis, weak hands or are just lazy like me, the electric shears are the way to go. You’re going to be cutting about 300+ lineal feet so it’s no easy task. Hand fatigue and blisters are a real thing using manual shears.
Fiskars Amplify RazorEdge Fabric Scissors - 10" Heavy Duty Fabric Shears
CGOLDENWALL YJ-125A Electric Rotary Fabric Cutter, Multi-layer Fabric Scissors
Thinsulate is great, I've used it in both vans I've built out. It's much cheaper at Vanlife Outfitters though btw.
Getting behind those panels was a job. It's probably why many folks use spray insulation. But you got er done! Your solution looks like a healthier option.
Other than being a job, getting behind those panels is also rather useless. The metal sheets connect with the outside panels, effectively creating a thermal bridge which will get around any insulation you have in between. It's a simple thing, yet few seem to understand it.
@coconup3246 that makes sense. Thx
I wish I bought the precut kit fpr my sprinter. I did end up going with Rockwool, and sealed it. Think that was still the move even though its not a popular opinion. Good sound deadening, less expensive and maybe better insulating properties than some more popular solutions.
Love the content! 3m thinsulate is definitely good, but spray foam is way, way better. Thinsulate may be hydrophobic, but it is going to allow the metal to sweat, and you will have moisture trapped between it and the metal. Spray foam on the other hand, will actually stop condensation from collecting on the metal. I think you should use both. I went spray foam, foam board + luan for a custom insulated ply-panel, and lambs wool to cram into areas that I need to get back into.
Spray foam has been reported by many van builders as unstable and causing sheet metal rippling.
@earlhamil731 those are two user relayed issues. It needs to be mixed properly, and you can't spray too much in confined areas that don't allow it to escape faster than it can expand.
Spray foam is really great but not for DIY. If you can get a professional with a proper compressor mixer to do it for you, it will cost less than DIY and you should have no problems with it.
However, it is a permanent solution (one more reason to get it right the first time) and it is a nightmare to deal with if the van ever needs bodywork repairs so most people will get intimidated just by the thought of it.
@spiroszaharakis2648 great feedback, I agree with everything you said except I'd call it an advanced DIY. I did it myself with tanks I got off amazon, but I'm not exactly new to fabrication. The biggest tip I'd have would be use the more condensed spray head and monitor the mixing tip and swap it out every few panels or so. Mine came out great, everyone else's could as well, just put in the homework first.
Edit: oh, and don't spray it where your going to want access, like upper and lower horizontal runs, fill those with lambs wool or something alike so you can run wires and have access in the future.
Them windows look really nice , nice install
Another great way to get insulation into the small places is to use high strength fishing line with a flag on the end. Then use a shop vac to suck the flag from one end of the cavity to the other. You can then tie the line to a lice of insulation and pull it through.
Wow! This is a great idea I’ll have to try it
I love your videos!
Time and money well spent, you'll be receiving dividends from your work for years to come!
Are you going to install high top?
I like Thinsulate, but I would first use 3M Duck liner against as much of the outer steel as possible, to reduce condensation, it’s self adhesive and easier to install in the areas that you used the spray adhesive.
Looking forward to the rest of the build!
Where would you buy that duck liner at?
@@OKFrax-ys2op just google 3m duck liner, several van life suppliers sell it.
If you use actual duck water rolls off like water off a ducks back.
@@ScottBlankets You quacked me up with that duck joke.
Thinsulate over sheeps wool?
nice work
Thinsulate might be best if you want to remove it again some day. Overall best for a permanent install is professional sprayfoaming as that actually gets everywhere and doesnt leave any hidden exposed cold metal spots for condensation, itll also insulate better.
Curios about the sound deadening material installed. Why not use a larger amount in the areas you chose to place them? Is the movement occuring within that location as apposed to the outer area? I'm imagining that if I were to press that area you placed the material, that's were more movement occurs.
Imagine lightly placing your hand on a drum. It's not about stopping it from moving. It's about stopping it ringing like a bell or a drum skin.
Thank you for giving an explanation. That makes sense. I was only considering less movement minimal sound, and the placement of the material somehow might stabilize it. Sometimes how I imagine things are way off 😁!
For me, stuffing insulation into a small metal cavity is pointless. The metal will just conduct or bridge heat/cold around the insulation and into/out of the van. Better to use just place a single layer over all metal surfaces.
One loses a lot of space in a van that's tiny anyway.
That was my thought as well 🤔
How come and you didn't installed Sound Deadening Mat, before starting the Insulation?
I saw a video recently where they sprayed the black side and stuck that to the walls anyone know if it should be installed a certain way
i feel like i over did it with the glue for my thinsulate install
How do you get a thermal break in an all steel van?
Why not use spray on cork insulation like they’re using boats and it’s proven to be the best insulator available far better than any normal spraying toxic foam that’s used in houses in the US and banded in most of the world because of health risks.
I never heard of that cork insulation spray?
@@OKFrax-ys2op it’s an interesting product that does not have to be put on very thick to get very good insulation properties and it’s made from the recycled corks and waste from cork trees.
Why not just squirt foam in the holes? Your van really need a rooftop tent and ceiling pass through.
Why wouldn't you just insulate over everything to build a thermal break since you're going to build up a wall against the metal chassis? This seems... futile.
You don't get good insultation,and you use a lot of interior space doing it that way. The advantage of using insulation over the metal channels is there is no condensation since there is a channel for air to go through.
So weird how unavailable some of the stuff you use in your builds are in australia.. Thinsulate for example seems to be nowhere to be found here.. or even 1010 aluminium which seems to come at an even more expensive price than 2020..
Dang that’s a bummer to hear. I think 25 series is the metric equivalent for 10 series, and is the same for all intents and purposes.
😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
No respirator or even a mask while using spray adhesive - naughty diog,
Most spray adhesives are toxic and have warnings on the can to wear a mask. Isn’t it necessary to wear a mask when spraying that adhesive? Hopefully there won’t be any long lasting, lingering effects of breathing the adhesive once you finish and are living in the van.
do you even make a profit from selling your Van's
Oh please, no pre-work dissertations!
I guess we needed to be told how to use a ruler and a Sharpie... Thanks!
I do not, you do not. But a 19 yo kid on his first big project might need a few basic pointers that we take for granted.
@@nahornigNot everyone is a genius like you.
Ever think a 16 year-old kid is going to be watching this?