Definitely get the transmission built and install ARP head studs before doing anymore significant mods. Shave the fuel plate flat and slide it all the way forward in the AFC, 4000 gov spring kit, 60lb Hamilton valve springs, half cut delivery valves, crank the star wheel in 3 turns, 150hp injectors, and a t4 frame turbo with a .9AR exhaust housing for quick low end spooling. That should get you in the ballpark. You can also play around with advancing the injection pump timing to get a little more response and drivability out of it. Just make sure you have a good quality Pyrometer so you can watch you EGT's as they can get out of hand if you advance your timing too much. I'd also recommend a water/methanol injection system to keep low end smoke down and reduced EGT's. I have a degree in Medium/Heavy Truck technology so hopefully I can be of some help to you.
No mean to be a jerk, but I hate when people drive trucks and they go through the smallest things and they are like " oh my gosh, I don't know if I will make it through this!! May need to use 4WD" Stop Being a sissy. Put some gas in it, don't act like your bringing a lowered GTR through there...
OK OK... I know it wasn't legit mud bogging or anything like that... BUT, I still hope I made the entertaining enough for you guys! Thanks SO MUCH for watching!
You need to verify the state of charge in the battery and then if it's good, check the grounds. Looks and sounds like there's a loose or corroded ground somewhere. Follow the negative cable from the battery and check to make sure the ground on the engine block is good, then to the chassis. If the battery has a good charge, start checking grounds.
Most likely low battery charge. Also could be the battery is damaged inside not able to jump start. Check alternator charging rate, should be 13.5 to 14 volts.
I have 405hp on my rear tires. I have a fass, 6 hole nozzles, hx35/40 turbo, jwa, built Goerend trans built by Dave, 4" straight pipe and a few other things. No ARP needed, Cummins had their shit together for the 12v and 24v motors less than 600hp on the rear wheels. Get a #10 fuel plate and spring, or just take out the plate. Too many ways to build a diesel and everyone is different. A 465 turbo, 50hp injectors and a built trans will change you're truck greatly while keeping dependability and reliability!
Built trans at least valve body, billet input and triple disk torque converter but if you plan on using that power in 4wd go with a billet output shaft as well. As for engine go with DAP injectors "(150-175hp), 4K gov spring and race delivery valves, also will need a new head gasket, 425 head studs, 110 valve springs and heavy duty push rods the push rods and valve springs can go with any they all do the same but if you want to have a fast spool I would call Hamilton and see what they would recommend and get a cam as well. You will need to remove the head and get it sent out and checked to make sure it's prefect so it will seal good with the new head studs. As turbo I would do a steed speed t4 with a s366 or s369 sxe turbo
Arp head studs valve springs personally would want compound turbos but for 500hp you could get there on one turbo. different fuel pin and probably 200hp injectors
with that relay the best thing to do is to jump the relay you unplug the relay you get a small wire and you look up on your phone a wire diagram and they should show a all pot all the time positive that always has current flowing through and there should be a switch between two numbers you take the positive and you hit wonders numbers and then try to start it and it might work
What I usually do with equipment or vehicles that have problems I have not delt with before or I don't know is wrong I go straight to the forums for what ever it is. Keep up the great content and videos!
Before you think hp think about the trans. you have good fuel now ,good exhaust, and a good air filter the basics for any diesel. Do that trans bro. I have a 04 3rd gen and I'm like you torn at the moment. After much thought I decided to go the trans route i.e a muldoons stage 2 48re. Sorry this was so long just really wanted to share my 2 cents.
First off the transmission is a must with those things and I screwed up and made it the last thing I did. Fass 150 or Air dogs 4g pump for the lift pump, injectors, studs, valve and gov springs, push rods, bigger turbo, complete intake system, gauges to watch everything, turn that p-pump up some and you'll be pretty close to what you're looking for
I'd defiantly start with the trans for a upgrade. I'd do the little things though like exhaust and intake but I would go for the trans after that, once you get that done you have more freedom and not having to worry about that in the back of your mind when you upgrade something else.
Depends on the work I always put grader chains on mine going on the log road and did perfectly fine. The first time I was lazy and didn't put chains on I buried my truck bad. That was also with a trailer full of equipment.
To get in the ballpark of 500hp I would run 5x14 injectors, 7mm delivery valves, advance the timing maybe 18* degrees, 4K governed springs, shave and slide your fuel plate, s366 turbo
My 02 F250 gasser has 380hp stock, I've yet to see a twin turbo 5.4 F250 on TH-cam so I'm thinking of it. Could easily get up to 500hp-550hp if tuned right
I am surprised you didn't bring a volt ohm meter to check voltage, and jumper cables or jumper pack, sounds like very low voltage start with the basics,
Just an FYI. To go into 4H you do not need to go to neutral. You gain do that on the fly. To go to 4L you want to go to neutral and to come out also. I do not get all the haters on the tow Mirrors up. You get a better view and if you tow often it is just easier to leave them on one place and not hav to adjust constantly. I am seriously thinking getting some Middle finger decals to put on my mirrors that show when flipped up. Just for the trolls.
Start with transmission upgrade then go to twin turbo injectors head studs and fuel pump tuning and timing and edge juice with attitude cs2 programmer and also aftermarket upgraded drive shaft in order to make the rest of the truck hold that power
I would put a air intake system like afe, airaid, or k&n. Put bigger injectors. Get a better intake horn like banks or pusher. Better intercooler like afe or banks. And a better turbo. That should get you close to 500 horsepower or a little more relaibly.
Check to make sure you have power to your starter to from reading mission switch down that sometimes you'll have a relay on that they got from the nation switch to that so check that I don't have a manual there to see if that's the case check it with your ohms meter meter and make sure that you have currently going through some relays from one side to the other side if you do then you know your relays are good and you have to go look for something else on it might be awire loose somewhere or connector
AFC live from power driven diesel!!!!! Best thing for a 12v. Then turbo upgrades, valve springs, Maybe a bigger cam shaft, then dyno. You will be close to 500. If not. Bigger injectors. Lift pump.
You should reseal the heads and check everything before adding injectors or a bigger turbo ECT. But if I was adding more power to it I would add a twin turbo setup so it will spool quicker and put bigger injectors in it great viedo.
No hate on the tow mirrors flipped out but I never have mine out unless towing so I would like to see more of them down to see how I like it cause I might have to upgrade since mine shake alot...
Brayden Aurich honestly I keep mine out because you can see alot better then flipped down and you have to adjust them everytime you flip them up or down to see right alot of the time
Joshua Hornberger ya I don't blame you. Especially if you do alot of towing but honestly I don't do too much towing so I don't mind them down. But I actually prefer the look of them down unless you have a bunch of stance which I dont 😂
i do the same thing in mine, just chug around in 4 low in the sand dunes crawling around in the fun stuff it's also super fun to find dumb fords who get stuck in the sand and tow them out
Go back to your tractor and when you have your relay checked owns on it to see if it's getting current through the other in of your really like to see which one is bad that's good we're checking out the knees need your ohms meter and check it good video keep up the good work
Hey man love the videos and I have a 96 12valve that I built my self and in my experience between the thousands of dollars to do it and stuff breaking down stream some where you are better off just to leave the truck alone the way it is and the diesel fuel will thin out your oil and wash down the cylinders the oil in them it will end up shorting the life of your engine and the truck will be harder to start in cold weather because the diesel fuels combustability will go down with the temp as it goes down too
For 500hp your going to want to put a lift pump 150 fass is a good pump. Then your going to want to get injectors I would go 175s cause it will be good and not to small were it puts alot of strain on them. Then I would go with a turbo I would check out Borg Warner turbos I would go with a 62mm or 64mm that size with those Injectors will give you a quick spool up and power throughout the whole rpm range. With 500hp you don't need twins I think a single will be good for that power goal. Then you will want a air intake. Then I would get arp headstuds, pushrods, and some valve Springs so everything will be save motor wise with all that extra boost and stuff. With that that should get you to a good save 500hp
And when you get injectors I would check out DAP they make really good ones just put some in mine love them and make sure whatever brand you go with make sure they are SAC style not VCO style and get guages of course
Dam bro my grandmas 88 Buick could of made that crossing lol....Check your battery with a volt meter ..then check your grounds ...A lot of new stuff if the charging system doesn't have a full 12 volts it won't start...Get yourself some electric component cleaner and spray relay contacts down ...DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM..Then let me know ..
12 VALVE GIVEAWAY LAUNCHING JUNE 1ST 2018!
Video with general details: th-cam.com/video/Svk460crdFk/w-d-xo.html
Definitely get the transmission built and install ARP head studs before doing anymore significant mods. Shave the fuel plate flat and slide it all the way forward in the AFC, 4000 gov spring kit, 60lb Hamilton valve springs, half cut delivery valves, crank the star wheel in 3 turns, 150hp injectors, and a t4 frame turbo with a .9AR exhaust housing for quick low end spooling. That should get you in the ballpark. You can also play around with advancing the injection pump timing to get a little more response and drivability out of it. Just make sure you have a good quality Pyrometer so you can watch you EGT's as they can get out of hand if you advance your timing too much. I'd also recommend a water/methanol injection system to keep low end smoke down and reduced EGT's. I have a degree in Medium/Heavy Truck technology so hopefully I can be of some help to you.
No mean to be a jerk, but I hate when people drive trucks and they go through the smallest things and they are like " oh my gosh, I don't know if I will make it through this!! May need to use 4WD" Stop Being a sissy. Put some gas in it, don't act like your bringing a lowered GTR through there...
Tractor is a battery issue. Low charge or completely shot. If 12v, just jumpstart it with your truck.
JBenso I tried and got nothing...
LOUD 'N' PROUD Very odd! I would've bet my last dollar that was it. Guess that's why I'm not a betting man! Lol
Having ur tow mirrors out will give 500 hp
K-Cush ! I figured. So I'm good then right?😎😂😂😂
Painted its 550
@@fit4ya1975 you big bad or little mad
OK OK... I know it wasn't legit mud bogging or anything like that... BUT, I still hope I made the entertaining enough for you guys! Thanks SO MUCH for watching!
Jerry Baca I've only had it 2 months
LOUD 'N' PROUD I think you have had it less than that honestly
The motor life nick yeah less then that by a little
LOUD 'N' PROUD try the fuel filter
The batterey is completely dead bro take it to autozone and have them charge it up
On the tractor it sounds like the battery is shot
its probably just the flux capacitator. lol..
I don't understand why the dodge boys put the new bumpers on the old trucks. Lines don't match and it just doesn't look well.
No Guilt Gaming once the right grille is on it'll look bomb
You need to verify the state of charge in the battery and then if it's good, check the grounds. Looks and sounds like there's a loose or corroded ground somewhere. Follow the negative cable from the battery and check to make sure the ground on the engine block is good, then to the chassis. If the battery has a good charge, start checking grounds.
injectors, aftermarket manifold and turbo, fuel pin, governor spring, valve springs. also stud the motor if you're gonna be pushing a lot of boost!!
He says that these trucks aren’t for off-road just for towing 😂they are good for towing and they are just as good for mudding and off-road
Darren Smith who would wanna take a 1997 dodge 12v mudding tf?
Ur the type of person that would bc obviously you don’t take pride on stuff bc u have everything handed over to you
This man really had 4x4 on while trail riding 😂
The tractor just has a dead battery
Most likely low battery charge. Also could be the battery is damaged inside not able to jump start. Check alternator charging rate, should be 13.5 to 14 volts.
I have 405hp on my rear tires. I have a fass, 6 hole nozzles, hx35/40 turbo, jwa, built Goerend trans built by Dave, 4" straight pipe and a few other things. No ARP needed, Cummins had their shit together for the 12v and 24v motors less than 600hp on the rear wheels. Get a #10 fuel plate and spring, or just take out the plate. Too many ways to build a diesel and everyone is different. A 465 turbo, 50hp injectors and a built trans will change you're truck greatly while keeping dependability and reliability!
Built trans at least valve body, billet input and triple disk torque converter but if you plan on using that power in 4wd go with a billet output shaft as well. As for engine go with DAP injectors "(150-175hp), 4K gov spring and race delivery valves, also will need a new head gasket, 425 head studs, 110 valve springs and heavy duty push rods the push rods and valve springs can go with any they all do the same but if you want to have a fast spool I would call Hamilton and see what they would recommend and get a cam as well. You will need to remove the head and get it sent out and checked to make sure it's prefect so it will seal good with the new head studs. As turbo I would do a steed speed t4 with a s366 or s369 sxe turbo
For the engine mods I'd do head studs fass 150 lift pump 150 injectors and around a 60mm turbo
Oh kubota keeps stalling in the same spot too on our farm. We've been spraying Christmas trees and recently the tie rod went out
Black LLY ours has never had an issue yet.. but I was saying any time equipment goes down it's in that spot at the furthest part of the property lol
Arp head studs valve springs personally would want compound turbos but for 500hp you could get there on one turbo. different fuel pin and probably 200hp injectors
Fuel plate under afc and the pre boost fuel screw and after boost fuel screw.. Look up the fuel screws on the ppump and how to mod fuel plate
with that relay the best thing to do is to jump the relay you unplug the relay you get a small wire and you look up on your phone a wire diagram and they should show a all pot all the time positive that always has current flowing through and there should be a switch between two numbers you take the positive and you hit wonders numbers and then try to start it and it might work
What I usually do with equipment or vehicles that have problems I have not delt with before or I don't know is wrong I go straight to the forums for what ever it is. Keep up the great content and videos!
qcn_ cummins thanks!
Before you think hp think about the trans. you have good fuel now ,good exhaust, and a good air filter the basics for any diesel. Do that trans bro. I have a 04 3rd gen and I'm like you torn at the moment. After much thought I decided to go the trans route i.e a muldoons stage 2 48re. Sorry this was so long just really wanted to share my 2 cents.
First off the transmission is a must with those things and I screwed up and made it the last thing I did. Fass 150 or Air dogs 4g pump for the lift pump, injectors, studs, valve and gov springs, push rods, bigger turbo, complete intake system, gauges to watch everything, turn that p-pump up some and you'll be pretty close to what you're looking for
Mason Faulk yeah ik... I've already been saving up money for trans work for a while building up to when I start doing hp mods..
Mason Faulk and that sounds good man! Thanks!
LOUD 'N' PROUD just make sure you get a good torque converter, input, and output shafts
I'd defiantly start with the trans for a upgrade. I'd do the little things though like exhaust and intake but I would go for the trans after that, once you get that done you have more freedom and not having to worry about that in the back of your mind when you upgrade something else.
Nice video my brother. I also took my mall crawler offloading to rescue my buddies 3rd gen. Should be up within the next week or so. Stay posted lol.
Depends on the work I always put grader chains on mine going on the log road and did perfectly fine. The first time I was lazy and didn't put chains on I buried my truck bad. That was also with a trailer full of equipment.
To get in the ballpark of 500hp I would run 5x14 injectors, 7mm delivery valves, advance the timing maybe 18* degrees, 4K governed springs, shave and slide your fuel plate, s366 turbo
Well one of my friends have a have a truck just like yours,but red and it is making 800 hp and the first think u need is a built transmission
My 02 F250 gasser has 380hp stock, I've yet to see a twin turbo 5.4 F250 on TH-cam so I'm thinking of it. Could easily get up to 500hp-550hp if tuned right
I am surprised you didn't bring a volt ohm meter to check voltage, and jumper cables or jumper pack, sounds like very low voltage start with the basics,
Fuel, fire, and air. three main things an engine needs to run.
Me personally being a diesel mechanic, and if you want minimum 500 horsepower, get 75hp over stock injectors, fuel pump, injection pump
God I loved the space in the 5.9 magnum, was a great work truck just switched jobs
1:55 *rolls coal on other car😂😂😂
Just an FYI. To go into 4H you do not need to go to neutral. You gain do that on the fly. To go to 4L you want to go to neutral and to come out also.
I do not get all the haters on the tow Mirrors up. You get a better view and if you tow often it is just easier to leave them on one place and not hav to adjust constantly. I am seriously thinking getting some Middle finger decals to put on my mirrors that show when flipped up. Just for the trolls.
Start with transmission upgrade then go to twin turbo injectors head studs and fuel pump tuning and timing and edge juice with attitude cs2 programmer and also aftermarket upgraded drive shaft in order to make the rest of the truck hold that power
I doubt your axle hit, I bet it was your big drop hitch
Yeah for sure.. I didn't even think about it at the time..
Not many youtubers respond to the comments, keep up the great content
I would put a air intake system like afe, airaid, or k&n. Put bigger injectors. Get a better intake horn like banks or pusher. Better intercooler like afe or banks. And a better turbo. That should get you close to 500 horsepower or a little more relaibly.
Oh and a FASS 150 fuel system
Add compound turbos injectors and a 150h tune and u will be there also get a fast fuel pump
That axle dump is so perfect!! Love the content man!! Keep it up!!
PNW.fishin. TV thanks!
Charge the battery
These ARE off road trucks! You just need some good lockers... and a new pair of center mount hanging power spheres 😂
In going to let you in on a little secret. Low rpm gets the best torque so you can crawl hills and whatever you need to.
Bro that tractor needs the battery checked first. Relays can make some wild noises if the voltage is low going into them. Go from there.
Also I think it was a great idea to kick it in 4 to travel through the grass
You should get in contact with Greg A, he knows a ton about the engines and seems like a super nice guy. Maybe you guys could collab in the future
Check to make sure you have power to your starter to from reading mission switch down that sometimes you'll have a relay on that they got from the nation switch to that so check that I don't have a manual there to see if that's the case check it with your ohms meter meter and make sure that you have currently going through some relays from one side to the other side if you do then you know your relays are good and you have to go look for something else on it might be awire loose somewhere or connector
You only need to put the trans in neutral when going into 4 Low not regular 4 wheel drive
AFC live from power driven diesel!!!!! Best thing for a 12v. Then turbo upgrades, valve springs, Maybe a bigger cam shaft, then dyno. You will be close to 500. If not. Bigger injectors. Lift pump.
Actually power driven diesel has horse power kits that you can buy to get to whatever horse power you want.
Gotta love the videos man 🤘 keep up the good work brother 💪
Injectors, Bigger single turbo, ARP head studs, 100hp injectors, turn up the p pump, MANUAL TRANS SWAP WOULD BE SICK!!!
Its not even turning over try charging the battery.
it could be a starter issue I have a 7.3 that had that issue I replaced the starter and it worked perfect
You should reseal the heads and check everything before adding injectors or a bigger turbo ECT. But if I was adding more power to it I would add a twin turbo setup so it will spool quicker and put bigger injectors in it great viedo.
No hate on the tow mirrors flipped out but I never have mine out unless towing so I would like to see more of them down to see how I like it cause I might have to upgrade since mine shake alot...
Brayden Aurich mine don't vibrate at all
Brayden Aurich my old style did bad
LOUD 'N' PROUD ya the only thing is I would want electric if I got 4th gen mirrors and the ones in your bio are manual
Brayden Aurich honestly I keep mine out because you can see alot better then flipped down and you have to adjust them everytime you flip them up or down to see right alot of the time
Joshua Hornberger ya I don't blame you. Especially if you do alot of towing but honestly I don't do too much towing so I don't mind them down. But I actually prefer the look of them down unless you have a bunch of stance which I dont 😂
ADD racing stripes that adds at least 50 horsepower
mudding with the tow mirrors out. serious offroadING at that point. lol
Heads, pistons, piston rods, connecting rods, two compound turbos, and injectors
Take the battery out of the tractor, go home and charge it for about an hour, and then put it in and it will start.
i do the same thing in mine, just chug around in 4 low in the sand dunes crawling around in the fun stuff
it's also super fun to find dumb fords who get stuck in the sand and tow them out
Go back to your tractor and when you have your relay checked owns on it to see if it's getting current through the other in of your really like to see which one is bad that's good we're checking out the knees need your ohms meter and check it good video keep up the good work
You should get a new turbo. Depends on how much you want to spend. That's what I would do
Least you took your off road my brother in-law just put rims on his highway princess so he's definitely not taking it off the pavment
Head, Studs, Cam. Injectors. Intake
Love the vids man
5:11 Wild Moose
it even has antlers
Hey man love the videos and I have a 96 12valve that I built my self and in my experience between the thousands of dollars to do it and stuff breaking down stream some where you are better off just to leave the truck alone the way it is and the diesel fuel will thin out your oil and wash down the cylinders the oil in them it will end up shorting the life of your engine and the truck will be harder to start in cold weather because the diesel fuels combustability will go down with the temp as it goes down too
For 500hp your going to want to put a lift pump 150 fass is a good pump. Then your going to want to get injectors I would go 175s cause it will be good and not to small were it puts alot of strain on them. Then I would go with a turbo I would check out Borg Warner turbos I would go with a 62mm or 64mm that size with those Injectors will give you a quick spool up and power throughout the whole rpm range. With 500hp you don't need twins I think a single will be good for that power goal. Then you will want a air intake. Then I would get arp headstuds, pushrods, and some valve Springs so everything will be save motor wise with all that extra boost and stuff. With that that should get you to a good save 500hp
And when you get injectors I would check out DAP they make really good ones just put some in mine love them and make sure whatever brand you go with make sure they are SAC style not VCO style and get guages of course
Watching this video was the first thing I'd this mornin I've never clicked on a video so fast in my life 😂
Timmy 582 😂😂😂
hey should i put 35 inch tires on a 5 inch lift kit on my 2nd gen cummin on should i put 33 inch tires
Only way to get your axle higher is big tires 😏😜
Brayden Aurich yup lol
Id probably do compounds and full boltons
I'm not a mechanic but I'm pretty sure it sounds like the battery is dead, but loving the videos brother👍👍👍
Normally as you want more horsepower to a diesel the injectors need to ad more fuel to the cylinder
That shut give more horsepower and it smokes more!
What's your tires size/type ?
Bigger injectors turn that fuel pin so that it can get the power from the injectors bigger turbo
You should check out Power Driven Diesel, they know all about these engines. I recommend getting their AFC Live, made a huge difference with mine.
so what does that do for you
No battery, put some jumper cables and it will start up
Charge the battery and build your transmission before u do to much to your engine. Keep up the good work!
Keep up with the vids.....love it :)
Why don't you do any cold starts on any of your Cummins, can you do a few" PLEASE"
Is it it just me or do those mirrors look bigger than regular dodge tow mirrors because mine don't loom that big even when extended
Sebastian 4th gen mirrors are bigger than 3rd a
Or 2nd gen mirrors
Matt ra they are just square and not all rounded... but I held them side by side and really not different mush in overall length and height
Maybe a tuner or cold air intake?
Nicholas Ferrando you can't tune a 12 valve 😂😂😂
LOL
take your trailor hitch off when you go off road... it was your hitch that hit not your rear axel.
Must not run any cattle if that’s considered off roading
Dan Brustowicz well he's off road isn't he?!😂 No not everyone is dealing with cattle?! Didn't realize he need to go in a 5ft mudhole to make u happy
My friends always put their trucks in 4x4. Me I just run in 2x4.
Do u still have that truck.
Dam bro my grandmas 88 Buick could of made that crossing lol....Check your battery with a volt meter ..then check your grounds ...A lot of new stuff if the charging system doesn't have a full 12 volts it won't start...Get yourself some electric component cleaner and spray relay contacts down ...DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM..Then let me know ..
That relay is bad. Try to jump straight from the starter with the key on and if it starts it is for sure the relay
Is your 2nd Gen automatic or manual
And it’s the battery’s in the tractor
if it won't boost then you're battery is shot u need a new one
Keep the great videos up
The purpose of a diesel is ment to tow and what not. But u just ride around in your truck and try and look pretty in your truck
lucas speaks and you just go on TH-cam videos to talk shit...who's this bigger asshole?!😘
Cameron Laroche haha. I liked that comment a lot!
Tow mirrors facing in adds ten hp
why don't you try boosting it off? it's your battery
That was your hitch that hit not your axle