I'm not sure how you usually do your frets and I know this is the first you've done them with binding. So I'll share some of my process. First I cut all the frets to length and put them in a block with holes drilled and numbered to keep them in order. Then I nip them all at the same time keeping them in order. Then I file that little bit under the crown. Then they all get pressed into the board and trimmed off at the same time. Speeds up the process a lot. You may already do that but with the nipping just wanted to get familiar with the process. The neck looks amazing and your work is second to none.
really enjoyable watch again Dan, even if it did make my finger ends feel sore watching the polishing, recently did my first full fret replacement and like a mad man fitted stainless, killed my tools and my fingers but happy with how it came out. was that a crimson triangular crowning file you used as i'm done with these diamond things and intend to get a more traditional file, then learn an old skill with something that will last.
Amazing to see the neck almost complete! Question on polishing the fretboard...I haven't done this on my prior builds but might want to give it a shot. Could you potentially use a radius sanding block for the polishing steps or are the straight blocks better?
Thank you very much. You can also use a radius sanding block to polish the fretboard, but this usually requires more sandpaper and time than necessary,but if you don’t feel confident about using a flat sanding block by all means use a radius block. Keep checking for straightness though as radius blocks are usually not dead straight.
I have a question you or the viewers might could help with. I was given plans for a guitar build, esp Mx 250 style guitar build, but I have questions about the neck break angle. The neck break angle is 4° and the plans show the 4° cut in the neck pocket, but it seems to me that it would be a lot easier to cut the 4° on the neck tenon and keep the neck pocket square.
You can indeed give the heel the 4˚ angle, however unless you also address the ‘end’ of the tenon it will sit at an angle inside the neck pocket leaving a 4˚ gap. If you’re working from plans I do recommend following the plans. Adjusting seemingly small things can have major effects somewhere along the line. If you do alter things make sure to keep double checking everything after that. Especially scale length, bridge placement, string height, etc. Good luck.
@@UnquendorGuitars I wish I could show you the plans because I noticed there’s no closeup of the neck showing angles and stuff or maybe in not reading into it like I’m supposed to? my logic was it is a long neck tenon so a lot of the tenon would get routed out and be under the pickup, as well as the neck tenon being cut at 90° so it would have the gap that way too right? And in a lot of guitars you can see like a 1/4” gap like under the Gibson neck pickups. I just don’t know how I would put the angle in the neck pocket.
Hi Daniel.... Jeffrey is here 😊 After I've watched your video, I have a suggestion for the side dots. I think it will be more cool if you install the side dots that are glowing in the dark. What do you think?
Hi Jeffery, Thank you for the suggestion. I wanted to do glowing in the dark side dots, but I couldn’t find any orange material besides glow in the dark 3D printing filament which is slightly too small for my taste. I think I could have done a glow in then dark orange epoxy, but wasn’t sure how that would turn out is such small holes.
Daniel I was wondering if you think hard wax oil finish might be suitable for an acoustic,I know u don't know much about acoustic guitars just yet but I'm thinking because it's wood I should work ,,what do u think !
An oil finish is very suitable to be used on an acoustic guitar so I don’t see any problem with using a hard wax oil. That said I wouldn’t apply it to heavy.
Thanks for answering me back and I appreciate the advice keep up the great content I always learn something from u and another crazy thing I realized ,I live in the US , in Pennsylvania to be exact but the crazy thing is , we are called Pennsylvania Dutch ,,I wonder if we are decent from the true Dutch like u ,, just thought that was pretty cool
Daniel we learn on every build. Each one is a new adventure. Thanks for posting your builds.
Daniel u are one heck of a guitar builder and great teacher , hats off to u brother
The inlay and position markers are looking perfect! High skilled! Thanks for sharing Daniel! Can’t wait to see the guitar in real at an upcomming show
Stunning work Daniel. Have a good break. I've had my break, so back to the workshop today. Cheers.
Wow Daniel. The best and detailed fretwork I ever seen.
This was a great master class in fretboard building! It looks amazing!
Shows how much more effort goes into a custom build vs factory made!
ITS a great Pleasure to watch your Videos, i Like your work 😊😊 have a nice vacation
Wow, absolutely beautiful work.
I'm not sure how you usually do your frets and I know this is the first you've done them with binding. So I'll share some of my process. First I cut all the frets to length and put them in a block with holes drilled and numbered to keep them in order. Then I nip them all at the same time keeping them in order. Then I file that little bit under the crown. Then they all get pressed into the board and trimmed off at the same time. Speeds up the process a lot. You may already do that but with the nipping just wanted to get familiar with the process. The neck looks amazing and your work is second to none.
Absolutely stunning!
Stunning!!!
Ha Daniël, prachtig werk man, fijne vakantie.
Yea agree 1 fret at a time. Press twice💯
Now know that thanks
really enjoyable watch again Dan, even if it did make my finger ends feel sore watching the polishing, recently did my first full fret replacement and like a mad man fitted stainless, killed my tools and my fingers but happy with how it came out. was that a crimson triangular crowning file you used as i'm done with these diamond things and intend to get a more traditional file, then learn an old skill with something that will last.
It is indeed a Crimson re-crowning file I’m using.
Lovely to have this video to watch on a Monday. Which fret press do you have, is it 1 ton, or 0.5 tonne? I need to get one soon.
It’s a 2 ton press. Maybe a bit overkill but now it might also be useful for other jobs
Amazing to see the neck almost complete! Question on polishing the fretboard...I haven't done this on my prior builds but might want to give it a shot. Could you potentially use a radius sanding block for the polishing steps or are the straight blocks better?
Thank you very much.
You can also use a radius sanding block to polish the fretboard, but this usually requires more sandpaper and time than necessary,but if you don’t feel confident about using a flat sanding block by all means use a radius block. Keep checking for straightness though as radius blocks are usually not dead straight.
@@UnquendorGuitars Thank you sir!
I have a question you or the viewers might could help with. I was given plans for a guitar build, esp Mx 250 style guitar build, but I have questions about the neck break angle. The neck break angle is 4° and the plans show the 4° cut in the neck pocket, but it seems to me that it would be a lot easier to cut the 4° on the neck tenon and keep the neck pocket square.
You can indeed give the heel the 4˚ angle, however unless you also address the ‘end’ of the tenon it will sit at an angle inside the neck pocket leaving a 4˚ gap. If you’re working from plans I do recommend following the plans. Adjusting seemingly small things can have major effects somewhere along the line. If you do alter things make sure to keep double checking everything after that. Especially scale length, bridge placement, string height, etc.
Good luck.
@@UnquendorGuitars I wish I could show you the plans because I noticed there’s no closeup of the neck showing angles and stuff or maybe in not reading into it like I’m supposed to? my logic was it is a long neck tenon so a lot of the tenon would get routed out and be under the pickup, as well as the neck tenon being cut at 90° so it would have the gap that way too right? And in a lot of guitars you can see like a 1/4” gap like under the Gibson neck pickups. I just don’t know how I would put the angle in the neck pocket.
Hi Daniel....
Jeffrey is here 😊
After I've watched your video, I have a suggestion for the side dots. I think it will be more cool if you install the side dots that are glowing in the dark.
What do you think?
Hi Jeffery,
Thank you for the suggestion.
I wanted to do glowing in the dark side dots, but I couldn’t find any orange material besides glow in the dark 3D printing filament which is slightly too small for my taste. I think I could have done a glow in then dark orange epoxy, but wasn’t sure how that would turn out is such small holes.
Daniel I was wondering if you think hard wax oil finish might be suitable for an acoustic,I know u don't know much about acoustic guitars just yet but I'm thinking because it's wood I should work ,,what do u think !
An oil finish is very suitable to be used on an acoustic guitar so I don’t see any problem with using a hard wax oil.
That said I wouldn’t apply it to heavy.
Thanks for answering me back and I appreciate the advice keep up the great content I always learn something from u and another crazy thing I realized ,I live in the US , in Pennsylvania to be exact but the crazy thing is , we are called Pennsylvania Dutch ,,I wonder if we are decent from the true Dutch like u ,, just thought that was pretty cool
Center
No glue ok