I can say that after 19 years of practicing electronics my solders are like these congratulations, and I don't know about you, but I love it when someone tries to identify which component I changed and can't 😂😂😂.
Those are some beautiful solder connections. I love how they stay silver and smooth after cooling down. Must be the flux covering the surface, and having everything clean, and a good temperature on the soldering iron.
Thank you for the work, it is therapeutic to watch. However, I would like to point out some issues with the soldering process: first, your iron's thermal recovery is not fast enough. It takes quite some time to heat up DPAK/DDPAK tabs, and that's a sign of slow thermal recovery. This could be worse if you use lead free solder. Second, it's not recommended to push the parts down with a tweezer while soldering. You should allow natural solder standoff height. You can do this with low mass components like chip resistors and chip capacitors as well as some small chip diodes. For an inductor, you should allow for some standoff. The reason is that the standoff height serves as a stress relief, and it absorbs the impact during an external shock. If there's no enough standoff, the bonding interface will have to take more shock energy and fail.
Well, 1. it would be very hard to keep still the part otherwise, and 2. you can solder one leg this way, then put away the tweezers and proceed with other legs, and 3. maybe you're over complicating this simple process? (plus we didn't see how he solders the inductors, maybe he indeed uses a different technique).
I mean I do this for a living and i've never had an issue with a repaired component such as an IC chip or a large aluminum capacitor having joint strength issues when pressed down on while being soldered
Thank you so much for this tutorial I've just soldered my first smd 6-leg to an adapter board, and it works wonderful. Even I don't have a microscope, just magnifing glasses.
Im amazed the amount of times Androkavo reflows the solder. If the components still work I will be surprised. Plus some joints have a bit too much solder. Remember that puts stress on the joints.
This is the only soldering video I have seen that is actually correct in every way. I can't think of anything negative. Good job sir. Keep it up. I teach a power electronics design class at work and soon I will need to cover soldering techniques. Would you mind if I used this video?
Of course, you can embed my youtube videos link to your site/page/blog, it's feature of youtube. If use as offline, just credit source from my youtube channel : th-cam.com/users/androkavo
Well, look more carefully to DPACK & D2PACK power pad soldering. It is only touched at the edge and not soldered at all underneath. It may cause a lack of heat transfer from the component to the pad and potentially - a failure. Power pad should be soldered on whole surface.
Yes, it is OK for a dummy board. If a large cooling area belongs to the to252's drain (or 263) it will be a little harder than setting up to 400C it should be preheated and and presoldered or need some solderpaste. if it's innolot....hard as hell. Oh i forgot the always suroundin 0402's and a bigger problem: solder mold contact. Failed on ipc class3
Very pleasant to look at. Except you were trying to do high thermal mass components like D2PAK and inductor too fast. Unless the the metal heats up properly, solder won't adhere to it well. So let the soldering iron dwell on the component for some time.
excellent video friend! congratulations please continue generating more content of soldering and desoldering with captive! Many students of electronics for economic limitations can not buy heat station! I already subscribed to your channel very successful and greetings from Caracas Venezuela!
those compand that have plastic support hard to solder it like Aluminum Capacitor in 10:09 and Power Inductor , need more time to verify if it's stick or not
Eslam's Lab EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
very nice tutorial video - but I don't understand why you only apply flux to one side of the pads first. Especially with the tabbed packages it would be an advantage to have flux between the pad and the tab of the package because it will promote the capillary suction of the solder into the gap between the tab and the pad.
probably so you don't get shorts under the component. If there is flux only on one side then it is less likely for solder to flow across to the other pads.
why is no flux done in/on all areas? (everything fluxes in one go) just under those big cool surfaces you must have good contact! and exactly there you do not flux? why? BUT anyway thanks for the video anyway (it does have its uses!) (I did not know which flux to buy on eBay, now I know!) ;-) friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
I'm no expert, but I do a lot of desoldering to salvage parts and those packages with the heat sink pads, TO252, TO263, and TO263-5, usually have solder at the back of the heat pad, connecting the whole heat pad to the board. This just shows soldering the top edge of the heat pads. Wouldn't that affect the thermal conductivity to the board and lower heat dissipation? Again, I'm no expert, but I would place some solder paste at the back of the heat pad, so when soldering the top edge, the solder paste will melt and bond the whole pad to the board.
Всё кажется достаточно просто, пока не осознаешь, что эти CMD-компоненты буквально 2-3 мм в длину, и то деревянное бревно на полкадра - это на самом деле кончик маленькой зубочистки)
I don't think you're supposed to get flux/alcohol on top of a button. At least that's what I read in switch manufacturers soldering instructions. You will get flux residues inside the switch which will make it unreliable.
superdau you say when he brushes it? That's only alcohol, so it evaporates within 10/20 seconds. It doesn't matter if the alcohol touches it. If it was flux, it would be a different story.
Yeah, but the alcohol has the flux you want to remove dissolved in it as soon as you brush over the flux. After the alcohol evaporates you are left with a thin layer of flux and if that's inside the switch, that's bad.
superdau the flux gets sticked to the brush, in fact the brush with alcohol is used specifically to remove any flux that could get sticked to a component and cause problems.
Nah, it's just the flux fumes. It'll go away after a while. If you experience shortness of breath, chest pain, reduced stamina or difficulty breathing that lasts longer than 12 hours, please contact a doctor immediately.
Androkavo sorry dude but you're soldering way too slow. Dwell time should be three seconds tops for the majority of components, and like others have commented you unnecessarily touch up most of your joints, which causes damage especially to semiconductors (weakens dies and will absolutely cause latent failures and lower efficiency). I recommend looking at IPC-J-STD-001. Also you have too much solder on most components, look at IPC-A-610. It would be really good for the community if you did another video fixing your mistakes.
Great video but I think if you heat up the legs and then use the legs to melt solder it will make it easier. Like those larger heat spreader tabs. If you melt solder on your iron the solder don't stick to the tab well and you could end up with a hollow solder point.
good work, wave solder always result in too much solder we see here but if you dont make space ship or aeronotic it is ok and more robust.hot air make a nice job too and more easy to watch solder quantity. on big package with tab ,because you use flux youre right to feed solder by the end of part, the flux as 2 utility, clean and heat conduction so solder flow under the part. you need more watts on your iron or a bigger tip for these tab,more celcius become risky to reduce life of part if time is too long... but i do it too;) p.s. you have a better microscope then me, clear focus !
He is applying far too much heat to the pad on the PCB. It will not adhere properly to the board afterwards and any vibration will mean it detaches in time. Not good practice! See Marconi college instructions on how to do it properly. He should tin the contacts before applying the item to the board and then the procedure is quick and simple and no damage occurs to the solder pad adhesion. This is important in boards used in industry where vibration is nearly always present to some degree.
Thanks for the video and the channel, really educational for a hobbyist like myself! A question about SOT-23 (or any SMD component, really): At 2:25 you solder the right pin, then the left pin immediately. Is there a reason for this, or is it a better practice to let the component and board cool down before you start soldering the next pin? Also, I only have a simple cheap 30-watt soldering iron with a cone-shaped tip, and I also have a tip similar in shape to what you're using in the video. Will 30 watt be OK (not too much, not too little), and does the tip matter? I need to do some SOT-23, but the amount of work I need to do with them does not justify investing in an expensive soldering station. One last thing: I have some paste flux similar in color to yours, but different brand (BAKKU, I think), and it's a neutral flux. Can I expect it to work in SMD soldering? Thanks!
The flux should be fine, but you're gonna have a rough time with a constant power iron. Get yourself a temperature controlled station of you can - some really decent t12 kits can be as low as $15 on ebay. For the tips I recommend trying out a few and seeing which one you are most comfortable with.
If I had to guess, he reflows good joints, because like me he's guilty of sometimes using his eyes for the actual soldering, and then uses the microscope for inspection.
To be honest ... this man looks like he's just playing with hand solderin. He's applying too much time to weld every single component ,overvall i dislike & also disagree with this technique :(
I can say that after 19 years of practicing electronics my solders are like these congratulations, and I don't know about you, but I love it when someone tries to identify which component I changed and can't 😂😂😂.
Flux is a beautiful thing :)
5 Minute Crafts - Electronics Edition!
No, honestly, this is THE BEST suface mount tutorial I have found. Thanks!
Thanks for this. As a beginner, its not obvious which SMD packages can easily be soldered without special equipment.
Thanks for this demo. I was confused about the pin 2 stub on a D2PAK. This cleared it up.
Those are some beautiful solder connections. I love how they stay silver and smooth after cooling down. Must be the flux covering the surface, and having everything clean, and a good temperature on the soldering iron.
You make those components look huge and easy to solder. I don't see the too much solder on components myself. Looks like just the right amount to me.
Digital microscope
use liquid solder
Using the appropriate sized tip and solder helps to make neat joints.
Thank you for the work, it is therapeutic to watch. However, I would like to point out some issues with the soldering process: first, your iron's thermal recovery is not fast enough. It takes quite some time to heat up DPAK/DDPAK tabs, and that's a sign of slow thermal recovery. This could be worse if you use lead free solder. Second, it's not recommended to push the parts down with a tweezer while soldering. You should allow natural solder standoff height. You can do this with low mass components like chip resistors and chip capacitors as well as some small chip diodes. For an inductor, you should allow for some standoff. The reason is that the standoff height serves as a stress relief, and it absorbs the impact during an external shock. If there's no enough standoff, the bonding interface will have to take more shock energy and fail.
the only reason he uses the tweezers is to stop the component from moving, though i do agree with you on those points.
I think that holding the IC with tweezers helps to dissipate heat and avoids burning the chip
Well, 1. it would be very hard to keep still the part otherwise, and 2. you can solder one leg this way, then put away the tweezers and proceed with other legs, and 3. maybe you're over complicating this simple process? (plus we didn't see how he solders the inductors, maybe he indeed uses a different technique).
I mean I do this for a living and i've never had an issue with a repaired component such as an IC chip or a large aluminum capacitor having joint strength issues when pressed down on while being soldered
What about if you shut the fuck up and do the video ?
Awesome! This video reassured me it's not that hard to solder those parts at all!
Delightful music, perfectly soldered pads... This must be heaven 🤤♥️
Thank you so much for this tutorial
I've just soldered my first smd 6-leg to an adapter board, and it works wonderful. Even I don't have a microscope, just magnifing glasses.
حح
The best SMD tutorial I have ever seen -- thank you!
So much fun watching an amateur doing stuff I've been doing for 35 years.
Still my favorite SMD soldering video.
I don’t know what’s so satisfying about this
Very beautiful soldering!
Im amazed the amount of times Androkavo reflows the solder. If the components still work I will be surprised. Plus some joints have a bit too much solder. Remember that puts stress on the joints.
dont be dramatic m8
Everything according to Pace basic soldering lessons. It's a pleasure to watch! So relaxing =)
Androkavo congratulations, beautiful pictures. Could you do SMD desoldering - Common Packages?
Really nice soldering .. very therapeutic!
Not necessary to go back and re-heat the joint multiple times. Just stresses the semiconductor unnecessarily. Nice joints but too much heat.
I agree with Roger
Roger Onslow could you point to an example in the video, at what point in time did you see this? I am new to the process.
@@cdevidal e.g. at minute 5:20 when soldering the D2PAK regulator
I wonder why he did it
Soldering has become artwork
This is the only soldering video I have seen that is actually correct in every way. I can't think of anything negative. Good job sir. Keep it up. I teach a power electronics design class at work and soon I will need to cover soldering techniques. Would you mind if I used this video?
Of course, you can embed my youtube videos link to your site/page/blog, it's feature of youtube. If use as offline, just credit source from my youtube channel : th-cam.com/users/androkavo
Androkavo will do thank you
Well, look more carefully to DPACK & D2PACK power pad soldering. It is only touched at the edge and not soldered at all underneath. It may cause a lack of heat transfer from the component to the pad and potentially - a failure. Power pad should be soldered on whole surface.
Andr Sam you can see the solder flow under the chip just fine.
Yes, it is OK for a dummy board. If a large cooling area belongs to the to252's drain (or 263) it will be a little harder than setting up to 400C it should be preheated and and presoldered or need some solderpaste. if it's innolot....hard as hell. Oh i forgot the always suroundin 0402's and a bigger problem: solder mold contact. Failed on ipc class3
Best focus I've ever seen! Wow
Idk why but this video is so satisfying
Your Flux pate is excellent.
Very pleasant to look at. Except you were trying to do high thermal mass components like D2PAK and inductor too fast. Unless the the metal heats up properly, solder won't adhere to it well. So let the soldering iron dwell on the component for some time.
It's not soldering... It's an art 🎨 😍🌹
Keep calm and watch this guy soldering stuff.
Nice soldering there, but I do prefer flux core solder myself.
therapeutic!
Просто приятно посмотреть
Nice soldering with a good and professionel job
excellent video friend! congratulations please continue generating more content of soldering and desoldering with captive! Many students of electronics for economic limitations can not buy heat station! I already subscribed to your channel very successful and greetings from Caracas Venezuela!
*Une démonstration vraiment efficace ! Merci*
those compand that have plastic support hard to solder it like Aluminum Capacitor in 10:09 and Power Inductor , need more time to verify if it's stick or not
👏 looks so effortlessly 😍
Music at 1:35 - 5:28 = "Still Alive", also known as "The Cake is a Lie". Different instrumentation, though.
BTW. very nice work, well done.
That sounds NOTHING like Still Alive from Portal.
6:33 I thought I was watching TIG welding for a while lol
…0
Excellente vidéo ,bravo
All this video is a good example of an inexperienced PCB engineer. The part lead should not cover the pad. There should always be room for solder.
Сильный мелкоскоп! Красавец.
Делал такой же из вебки ноутбука с перевернутой линзой от мобилки.
Wow andro you are the best
Eslam's Lab EARN ①#Solder ②#Repair ③#X-Ray inspection
We Provide #One-Stop Solution! professional equipment call me whatsapp/wechat: +8618779975930 email sales25@zhuomao.com.cn
Still didn´t reach the SMD point, but I hope to do it soon!! But one thing is true, with the right tools its easier, anything!!
no pre-tinning of the pads?
Superb video as usual! BTW, how do you manage to get rid of 100% dust on your components?
Nice skill, really learned a lot from it, thanks for the video :)
very nice tutorial video - but I don't understand why you only apply flux to one side of the pads first. Especially with the tabbed packages it would be an advantage to have flux between the pad and the tab of the package because it will promote the capillary suction of the solder into the gap between the tab and the pad.
probably so you don't get shorts under the component. If there is flux only on one side then it is less likely for solder to flow across to the other pads.
Класс!
Отличная работа!
Very clear and straight forward Thanks so much!
why is no flux done in/on all areas? (everything fluxes in one go)
just under those big cool surfaces you must have good contact!
and exactly there you do not flux?
why?
BUT anyway thanks for the video anyway (it does have its uses!)
(I did not know which flux to buy on eBay, now I know!) ;-)
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
Wahoo vary nice soldring
Nice video
very good work! thank for sharing!
What is correct temperature for soldering iron for SMD parts works?
مشترك جديد
متابعك من العراق
ستار الجوراني
Very entertaining and amazing trade
You’re an artist!!
I'm no expert, but I do a lot of desoldering to salvage parts and those packages with the heat sink pads, TO252, TO263, and TO263-5, usually have solder at the back of the heat pad, connecting the whole heat pad to the board. This just shows soldering the top edge of the heat pads. Wouldn't that affect the thermal conductivity to the board and lower heat dissipation? Again, I'm no expert, but I would place some solder paste at the back of the heat pad, so when soldering the top edge, the solder paste will melt and bond the whole pad to the board.
It´s So satisfying to wach! thank you, by the way, what microscope did you use in this video?
7:54 you can put MCN - XG50
Very fine work
Excelente video! My friend, what kind of microscope do you use?
Awesome work man! video is amazing!
Всё кажется достаточно просто, пока не осознаешь, что эти CMD-компоненты буквально 2-3 мм в длину, и то деревянное бревно на полкадра - это на самом деле кончик маленькой зубочистки)
It’s like an visual ASMR
Thanks genius. Great jobs
I don't think you're supposed to get flux/alcohol on top of a button. At least that's what I read in switch manufacturers soldering instructions. You will get flux residues inside the switch which will make it unreliable.
superdau you say when he brushes it? That's only alcohol, so it evaporates within 10/20 seconds. It doesn't matter if the alcohol touches it. If it was flux, it would be a different story.
Yeah, but the alcohol has the flux you want to remove dissolved in it as soon as you brush over the flux. After the alcohol evaporates you are left with a thin layer of flux and if that's inside the switch, that's bad.
superdau the flux gets sticked to the brush, in fact the brush with alcohol is used specifically to remove any flux that could get sticked to a component and cause problems.
I’m curious why flux is consistently only applied one side and not both, before placing the package.
Все так аккуратно, что противно смотреть
Good microscope.. made easy.. but its different in actual PCB that contains large amount of copper..
Masterful 👍
While you clean the flux using that liquid, do you used tissues to dried the liquid?
БОЛЬШЕ! БОЛЬШЕ ФЛЮСА!!! ))
Does solder get also under the part pads? Mainly in case of those big pads (e.g. DPAK, D2PAK, ..), doesn't it hold just by edges mostly?
at what temperature??
I love looking at close up SMD soldering, but I'm pretty sure that music has given me lead poisoning.
Nah, it's just the flux fumes. It'll go away after a while. If you experience shortness of breath, chest pain, reduced stamina or difficulty breathing that lasts longer than 12 hours, please contact a doctor immediately.
mối hàn rất đẹp và chính xác
Hi. Nice video. The liquid cleaner is alcohol?
Um.... Don't you need a chronical tip for for solder?
Beautiful work Andro, what temperature do you set your iron at for the smaller components?, thanks
315°C, soldering as fast as possible
Androkavo thank you very much for your very swift reply, keep up the great work, look forward to more of your great videos
Androkavo sorry dude but you're soldering way too slow. Dwell time should be three seconds tops for the majority of components, and like others have commented you unnecessarily touch up most of your joints, which causes damage especially to semiconductors (weakens dies and will absolutely cause latent failures and lower efficiency). I recommend looking at IPC-J-STD-001. Also you have too much solder on most components, look at IPC-A-610. It would be really good for the community if you did another video fixing your mistakes.
2:23 what happens to the printing on the package here??
This are my new satisfaction video
Great video but I think if you heat up the legs and then use the legs to melt solder it will make it easier. Like those larger heat spreader tabs. If you melt solder on your iron the solder don't stick to the tab well and you could end up with a hollow solder point.
good work, wave solder always result in too much solder we see here but if you dont make space ship or aeronotic it is ok and more robust.hot air make a nice job too and more easy to watch solder quantity. on big package with tab ,because you use flux youre right to feed solder by the end of part, the flux as 2 utility, clean and heat conduction so solder flow under the part. you need more watts on your iron or a bigger tip for these tab,more celcius become risky to reduce life of part if time is too long... but i do it too;)
p.s. you have a better microscope then me, clear focus !
He is applying far too much heat to the pad on the PCB. It will not adhere properly to the board afterwards and any vibration will mean it detaches in time. Not good practice! See Marconi college instructions on how to do it properly. He should tin the contacts before applying the item to the board and then the procedure is quick and simple and no damage occurs to the solder pad adhesion. This is important in boards used in industry where vibration is nearly always present to some degree.
Nice jobs 👏👏👏👏👏
The best way to burn your semiconductor element!
Thanks for the video and the channel, really educational for a hobbyist like myself!
A question about SOT-23 (or any SMD component, really):
At 2:25 you solder the right pin, then the left pin immediately. Is there a reason for this, or is it a better practice to let the component and board cool down before you start soldering the next pin?
Also, I only have a simple cheap 30-watt soldering iron with a cone-shaped tip, and I also have a tip similar in shape to what you're using in the video. Will 30 watt be OK (not too much, not too little), and does the tip matter? I need to do some SOT-23, but the amount of work I need to do with them does not justify investing in an expensive soldering station.
One last thing: I have some paste flux similar in color to yours, but different brand (BAKKU, I think), and it's a neutral flux. Can I expect it to work in SMD soldering?
Thanks!
The flux should be fine, but you're gonna have a rough time with a constant power iron. Get yourself a temperature controlled station of you can - some really decent t12 kits can be as low as $15 on ebay. For the tips I recommend trying out a few and seeing which one you are most comfortable with.
@@areg7182 got a soldering station wiith a heat gun and temperature control iron half a year ago. The difference is night and day!
Whats temperature and solder?
Good Job! Master!
is it magnetism? the hot liquid metal stuff sticks to where it is supposed to be as soon as it leaves the rod thing. very interesting
No magnetism, it's normal soldering electronics with clean surface
Its cohesion rather than magnetism i think
Excellent. Thanks.
Which solder did you use...? Looks like lead solder from being so shinny when cool.
If you compare the results from a reflow oven, you can surely tell the difference.
what temperature did you use before the 350-400° for the larger dpak ones ? and what kind of tin / diameter?
What solder wire use you ?
Thanks for the video.
Best regards,
Overall quite good, but too much solder on many joints. Also not sure why you go back and reflow successful joints over and over.
If I had to guess, he reflows good joints, because like me he's guilty of sometimes using his eyes for the actual soldering, and then uses the microscope for inspection.
To be honest ... this man looks like he's just playing with hand solderin.
He's applying too much time to weld every single component ,overvall i dislike & also disagree with this technique :(
parfect soldring
which camera and which lens was used to make the video?
So video is interesting.