Don't do it pin by pin! Just hold a little larger drop of tin/solder on the tip of your iron and just run it sideways ( as you've shown at 2:09 ). Adjust speed as necessary. Put plenty of rosin - okay, flux if you so choose in between the pins of the IC. That's all there is to it, no need to complicate the process. If the PCB pads are properly sized it's even easier. They are quite long on your boards.
Tin plated PCBs only last 6 months (gold plated 1 year) for factory soldering, so I guess, that is the reason for your cleaning: the PCB is older than that. I have never done that cleaning, but my PCBs were always fresh. BTW: Beautiful solder joints.
There is nothing wrong about soldering each pin individually, but dragging is both quicker and easier and the solder quality tends to the best. Remove excess solder by applying enough flux and reheating. Your solder tip will suck the solder so you can wipe it on the wire brush.
Korishan With a good soldering station, the right tip, the right temperature, and quality solder and flux, it really IS that easy!!! Just get some cheap soldering practice kits from eBay to practice before you work on anything important. You’ll be a pro in no time! (I suggest looking at the soldering tutorials from PACE Worldwide, eevblog, and John Gammel, too. Preferably in that order.)
Thanks for the video I still leaning to drag solder ,I think your tip is better then mine ,I have 11 different sizes ,what soldering station do you use at what temp ,I like how you use soldering paste that's where I can improve on mine ,great video.
- Because i don't want good joints, i want beautiful joints :) - Don't worry, pads weakens when more pressure or over heat, i always wait for low temperature then rework (because for optimize video duration, wait scene had cut)
Androkavo No, **every** heating cycle weakens the pad adhesion a little bit, even if each cycle is done correctly. (Less so on FR-4, a lot on phenolic paper boards.) I don’t see your rework actually improving the result. You’re just poking at them again and again and again... terrible thing to teach!!!
Agreed Antonio. The constant fapping on the pins was driving me nuts. If you know what you are doing you can get "beautiful" joints with one single pass, even if you have to go back and fix one mistake.
antonio & merlingt1: prove it. show us did he reach 5, 10, 15, 50 or 99% of pad resistance to heat cycling. ie show us amount of heating pads need to be lifted. for this particular board. i'm kinda thinking chip won't fall off together with its pads when the board is flipped. you?
Hello there, What soldering iron are you using ? What desolder braid are you using ? Also, is it possible to solder plcc package with solder paste ? (with a heat gun)
Ebrahim A.Rasool I would recommend getting ESD brushes for sensitive items. (Contrary to popular belief, alcohol can build static charge!) For less sensitive things, a regular cheap “acid brush” with a rolled sheet metal handle works great, especially if you’re working on an ESD mat and using an ESD wrist strap.
CX1RK Alcohol works well (isopropyl, ethanol, or methanol) but commercial flux removers (which are generally blends of alcohols and hydrocarbon solvents like heptane) do work a bit better and don’t cost a fortune. Brake cleaner (which is basically hydrocarbon solvent) also works well.
Perhaps you are overheating the PCB or under heating and pulling off the pads. You need enough heat and a larger tip when using the copper wig, but not too much so to burn the PCB.
I recommend soldering iron can adjust temperature (200 ~ 450°C) and easy to change soldering tip With soldering tip have cut surface 45° or 60°, like Hakko 900M-T-2C, T15-CF2
Androkavo thank you Any recommended brand for soldering iron ? I have a lot of tips. My problem was the soldering iron as you said. No easy way to change the tip until i turn it off .
Quick, Yihua, Hakko, Weller, ... popular brand dependent in your location i'm using Quick 705 (included soldering iron and hot air), as my experiment it's good Change hot tip, you can use leather gloves or other way : goo.gl/t8pTd1
Antonio Tejada you guys seem to be on to something here. Any advice on how to correctly solder (video or site)? Also the tip cleaning videos make me shudder. Who sandpapers their bit?
Я конечно извиняюсь, но нахера такой геморой, одну микросхему 5 минут поять ?! 5 минут, Карл. Ровняете микросхему на контактных площадках, прижимаете пальчиком, промазываете флюсом, можно и не гелем, он дороженный, обычным жидким, типа AIM275, пропаиваете паяльником одну сторону, потом другую, ничего облуживать не надо, тыкать по 10 раз в вывод не надо, времени займёт 1 мин максимум, штук 50 в час. А это колхоз и очумелые ручки. Производительность ниже плинтуса. И отмыто дерьмомо, под ножками флюс остался, мыть в ультразвуке надо, а не спиртиком тереть смд, это ересь.
God I hate that "happy" music, but the video is excellent. Such a beautiful job
Agree
Put this on background, looks much better: th-cam.com/video/jjIOfbuG6wc/w-d-xo.html
dude, I KNOW RIGHT? I was JUST thinking that and saw your comment LOL. God, it feels like it's on every electronics video...
Don't do it pin by pin! Just hold a little larger drop of tin/solder on the tip of your iron and just run it sideways ( as you've shown at 2:09 ). Adjust speed as necessary. Put plenty of rosin - okay, flux if you so choose in between the pins of the IC. That's all there is to it, no need to complicate the process.
If the PCB pads are properly sized it's even easier. They are quite long on your boards.
Impressive work kavo
I learned soldering smt from you
So thank you very much :)
I really love your videos!!! I have learned a lot from them. Keep going.
Tin plated PCBs only last 6 months (gold plated 1 year) for factory soldering, so I guess, that is the reason for your cleaning: the PCB is older than that. I have never done that cleaning, but my PCBs were always fresh. BTW: Beautiful solder joints.
Хорошая работа, все блестит и сверкает. Тоже так люблю
и мне нравится
Really Very Nice .... Many thanks for great hard work we learn lots from you ...
A most exellent video sir .well done.keep up the great work.
There is nothing wrong about soldering each pin individually, but dragging is both quicker and easier and the solder quality tends to the best. Remove excess solder by applying enough flux and reheating. Your solder tip will suck the solder so you can wipe it on the wire brush.
You make this look so easy 👍🤠
Korishan With a good soldering station, the right tip, the right temperature, and quality solder and flux, it really IS that easy!!! Just get some cheap soldering practice kits from eBay to practice before you work on anything important. You’ll be a pro in no time! (I suggest looking at the soldering tutorials from PACE Worldwide, eevblog, and John Gammel, too. Preferably in that order.)
Mostly the flux I find ... I would have given up long ago if not for my trusty tubes of Amtech 559 V2
அருமை சூப்பர்
Androkavo congratulations, beautiful pictures. Could you do SMD desoldering - SOIC SSOP Packages?
Aptly... Great job....and vedio. 👍🇧🇭..
Excellent video! Thanks!
Perfect job. Clean
Parabéns , muito bom !
Gostaria que você fizesse alguns vídeos retirando esses componentes. Obrigado.
Very good quality. What exact model of camera did you use? What magnification factor? I think such a camera would do a good job in our workshop.
Thanks for the video I still leaning to drag solder ,I think your tip is better then mine ,I have 11 different sizes ,what soldering station do you use at what temp ,I like how you use soldering paste that's where I can improve on mine ,great video.
Hello, where can we find the measuring cap that we see in your video when you wet your cotton isopropyl alcohol? it seems very practical. Thank you
goo.gl/w7n3zA
thanks guy ! good your channel !
Thank you for this video. Do you use the same technique for 0.5mm and 0.65mm pitch? Same tip and flux paste?
Wooow very very very thanks
Thanks for video. It was very useful for me. What is the camera you use? I also need something like this to see the details on the pcb.
Thamk you good smt soldering tutorial
It´s So satisfying to wach! thank you, by the way, what microscope did you use in this video?
Im ur fan... 😍, right now
Good video... Nice job with the soldering
really nice job. Thank you for the video.
what type of solder do you use? 60/40?
I admire your steadiness of hand. I'm 60 and just not that good.
Carl Franz You’d be surprised how much steadiness you gain just by using good magnification.
These videos are really excellent Andro! Speaking of magnification, what camera are you using? The photography & focussing are superb.
You should be called the Flux man.
excellent video!! many thanks :)
hello, artificial brisle are less resistive to heat, seem to me ? or are -there some brush qualities intended for that use ?
Why so much rework? In all your soldering videos you go back and reheat good joints over and over... you know this weakens the PCB pads?
- Because i don't want good joints, i want beautiful joints :)
- Don't worry, pads weakens when more pressure or over heat, i always wait for low temperature then rework (because for optimize video duration, wait scene had cut)
Androkavo No, **every** heating cycle weakens the pad adhesion a little bit, even if each cycle is done correctly. (Less so on FR-4, a lot on phenolic paper boards.)
I don’t see your rework actually improving the result. You’re just poking at them again and again and again... terrible thing to teach!!!
Actually She/He is showing her/his good soldering skill to us so,that we can learn and improve our skill
Agreed Antonio. The constant fapping on the pins was driving me nuts. If you know what you are doing you can get "beautiful" joints with one single pass, even if you have to go back and fix one mistake.
antonio & merlingt1: prove it. show us did he reach 5, 10, 15, 50 or 99% of pad resistance to heat cycling. ie show us amount of heating pads need to be lifted. for this particular board. i'm kinda thinking chip won't fall off together with its pads when the board is flipped. you?
Hello there, What soldering iron are you using ? What desolder braid are you using ?
Also, is it possible to solder plcc package with solder paste ? (with a heat gun)
What board/project you are soldering at?
That liquid, is like alcohol or something?
5:54 you had to remove the IC then resolder the pad. Now you have torsion on those soldered pads which will definitely cause problems in future.
7:54 he resoldered this pad
That pic16f is for motorcycle speedo display?
What are you sing for magnification, what device and mag.?
professional
Muito bom, parabéns!!!
Thanku sir very nice
What is the yellow liquid ? Can you tell me please!!
How can we bye that gel?
Why didnt you use solder paste
Hello, are you using a microscope?
muito bom, parabéns!
What brush do you use to clean the pcb? Is it esd safe?
Thanks
Ebrahim A.Rasool I would recommend getting ESD brushes for sensitive items. (Contrary to popular belief, alcohol can build static charge!) For less sensitive things, a regular cheap “acid brush” with a rolled sheet metal handle works great, especially if you’re working on an ESD mat and using an ESD wrist strap.
Great video but please stop using that "Apple ad" style hukulele and whistle music that's now in the 99% of videos on the internet!
what liquid do you use to clean the remaining flux on the pcb?
Probably isopropyl alcohol
Hello! Too many flux! :) What a flux cleaner you used?
In video i used alcohol
Thank you so much !
What do u use to clean the surface of the PDB?
Alcohol works fine
Yeah! A BIG 👍 from me.
Satisfaction
For clean flux why liquid used ? Tnks
CX1RK Alcohol works well (isopropyl, ethanol, or methanol) but commercial flux removers (which are generally blends of alcohols and hydrocarbon solvents like heptane) do work a bit better and don’t cost a fortune. Brake cleaner (which is basically hydrocarbon solvent) also works well.
@@tookitogo how about thinner A special ?
Amazing work. can u share this sch
Hi, what model of camera you are using?
Andonstar adsm201 microscope
i have a problem when cleaning the pads
the greenlayer always crumpled and detached
Perhaps you are overheating the PCB or under heating and pulling off the pads. You need enough heat and a larger tip when using the copper wig, but not too much so to burn the PCB.
What soldering iron is recommended ? can you share some info
I recommend soldering iron can adjust temperature (200 ~ 450°C) and easy to change soldering tip
With soldering tip have cut surface 45° or 60°, like Hakko 900M-T-2C, T15-CF2
Androkavo thank you
Any recommended brand for soldering iron ? I have a lot of tips. My problem was the soldering iron as you said. No easy way to change the tip until i turn it off .
Quick, Yihua, Hakko, Weller, ... popular brand dependent in your location
i'm using Quick 705 (included soldering iron and hot air), as my experiment it's good
Change hot tip, you can use leather gloves or other way : goo.gl/t8pTd1
Bro what is solding paste name please
ebay
MCN-UV50 High Quality Paste Flux Mechanic PCB / BGA / PGA / SMD Solder
По заводскому припаял
I'm so very interested to learn about SMD but....i still sucks at THT
what is the board called in which he solderd
SOIC28 to DIP adapter pcb board
endless solder paste
Helios Asonia FYI, that’s flux paste, not solder paste.
феном можно?
6:06 This not due to lack of presoldered pads, this is your bad soldering technique. You are too fast, your pads cannot get hot enough,
Voitano73 Yep. This guy produces the most beautiful videos of very mediocre soldering technique. :(
Antonio Tejada you guys seem to be on to something here. Any advice on how to correctly solder (video or site)? Also the tip cleaning videos make me shudder. Who sandpapers their bit?
one of the best tutorials th-cam.com/video/M0wI-5YZQm4/w-d-xo.html
I'm crazy to see some of your master techniques.
10
music is really uncool.
10000
Not good!
Я конечно извиняюсь, но нахера такой геморой, одну микросхему 5 минут поять ?! 5 минут, Карл. Ровняете микросхему на контактных площадках, прижимаете пальчиком, промазываете флюсом, можно и не гелем, он дороженный, обычным жидким, типа AIM275, пропаиваете паяльником одну сторону, потом другую, ничего облуживать не надо, тыкать по 10 раз в вывод не надо, времени займёт 1 мин максимум, штук 50 в час. А это колхоз и очумелые ручки. Производительность ниже плинтуса. И отмыто дерьмомо, под ножками флюс остался, мыть в ультразвуке надо, а не спиртиком тереть смд, это ересь.
Видео снимал не китаец
За 1 минуту можно качественно припаять только резистор.
Wha is brand your camera