Certified armorer, NRA Distinguished Police Expert, and veteran instructor for over 40 years, teaches the proper way to clean a handgun, without gimmicks, expensive cleaners and lubricants, or fads.
I operated my 1911's under the premise, the more oil, the better!! At the end of shooting sessions my guns were a muddy mess. Then I started watching your channel. After cleaning, I only applied a light coat of LSA to critical areas and wiped it off. Now at the end of a day of shooting, my guns look like they were just cleaned! Thank you sir for that important lesson.
Military police , Civilian police, Police sniper, professional armorer...I would hazard to guess that mr. blue knows what he is talking about. If one wishes to disagree with him, go ahead , I don't think he is particularly interested! I just found this channel and it is the sanest firearms channel on TH-cam. Thank you very much for helping me, and I am sure many many other people, by sharing your knowledge for free. That's a very nice thing to do and a very fine gift for me.
We need folks with the experience to back up their advice like you to continue setting the record straight when it comes to firearm maintenance. Other than Hicock 45, you are the only one advising against oiling a handgun. I believe you guys are correct and have followed this very important advice. Thank you and keep making these very important and informative videos.
No disrespect intended but guns need a light coat of oil on areas of friction. It’s as simple as this: I recently took a glock to range and after about 50rds of so it jammed. I took it apart and applied a light coat of oil put it back together and fired 100 Rd’s or so without jamming. The whole reason I “carry” a gun is to defend mine and my family’s life. I need to be sure my gun will function correctly when I need to use it. If you don’t think your gun needs lubrications fine but my guns needs lubrication to assure smooth action, prevent rust and protect it while extending gun life by preventing wear which I feel lubrication does. Hell, I guess my car motor doesn’t need any lubrication because those metal on metal parts are just “marrying”. No, your gun doesn’t need to be wet with oil but they need a very light coating of lubricant.
@@truthteller6701what would be a better example? Imo.. The only reason to not lightly oil would be if the carbon or debris is collecting on the oil causing more wear and friction, etc..
Thank you for investing your time and knowledge in proper cleaning of weapons, you helped me understand WHY I do not need to oil my guns. I was that 2 drop guy but not anymore after listening to you explain the reasons for not oiling. I actually laughed when you said "some of you look for places to put a drop of oil and that will gum up your gun." God bless you!
GunBlue490 I would like to thank you for this video. It is very informative, I used to use oil and grease in my guns, and would malfunction at lest every one hundred rounds. Now all I do is clean the parts, dry them and put one drop of oil on the whole gun, and then dry it, The guns work flawlessly now, and require almost no cleaning after shooting. Most of the fouling is in the barrel and that is it. No more discoloration on my revolver, no more malfunctions. I used to slather my guns and oil and would find rust popping up here and there, and would think " Needs more oil", well sense I have been using only a drop of oil, no rust or patina, or discoloration on my guns. Thank you, you have done quite a service by posting this.
Your expertise is much appreciated. It just makes total sense not to oil up a surface that is going to be subjected to the carbon and grime etc.of a firearm and create an abrasive 'sludge' that will counteract all you are trying to accomplish! As you stated these hardened steels will outlast generations of use ….if just kept clean and dry. Refreshing and sage advice from a professional! Thank you for your time and efforts.
Great information - very revealing insight. I have for 58 years cleaned my firearms without using any oil. Always use Hoppe's products. Have never had a single problem.
50 years from a certified armorer point of view, yes please, no tactical nonsense, yes please, a cartridge is to a gun like flour is to bread! this man is a genuine genius, plus he has an American behavior that is raw nowadays!❤️🤘
Great video. 👍 I'm -old- experienced like you. I use about exactly the same tools and solvents. I agree with using cleaning jags over loop tips for bore or chamber cleaning. No need to drag a dirty patch BACK through the bore. Push it out and let it fall off. Loop tips are good for cleaning things like magazines. I usually just remove the wood grips and set them aside during cleaning (for guns with wood grips) Too much oil on anything is just a dirt/grit/sand magnet. Brushes...bronze brushes absolutely! Make sure they have a BRASS core (not steel) and a looped tip, NOT a cut tip. They will cost a few cents more. They are worth it. Don't use rifle brushes to clean revolvers. They can be too long to completely enter the cylinder "window" and you won't be able to reverse them and pull them back out! Use a shorter "pistol" brush. I've also been using silicone wiping clothes for decades! They work great!
I'm one more person who needs to thank you. I was never taught or shown how to clean a firearm . I could guess but never sure , so Thank you for passing you're knowledge .
My name is Joe and I'm a over oiler..LOL I never cleaned my .22's, because as a kid I was told .22lr never need cleaning due to the bullet lube used. I did and still do clean all my other calibers meticulously. I started cleaning my .22's a few years ago and recently been using less lubricant on my firearms.
America has good men like our dear Gunblue, they are out there now opening their shops, day in day out. Reliable, forthright, accountable and willing to share/teach all they’ve learned from a lifetime of experience. Or simply for hire at a fair honest rate. God bless them “Not made from cupcakes” choked my coffee thru my nose! Thought i was gonna die. Ha! Love this guy
@@mnrodriguez Why? I'm inclined to listen to people that have been there and done that but my manufacturers instructions expressly said there are six tiny places that need to be oiled lightly.
I absolutely agree. No magic or mystery involved in cleaning. I remember from my army days, no need to use any expensive stuff. We always used to clean the mags too as a matter of fact.
This why I like watching TH-cam when someone with tons of experience is willing to share their expertise to me that had no idea how to clean a gun and was doing it wrong. Thank you sir. Much appreciated. Now I am going to clean all the oil from my guns.
Thank you for this video. I was one of those oil drenching fools but no more. I did exactly what you said not to do about all the seams near the trigger and hammer so I have to clean all that oil out and not add anymore to it. The tip on the oily mag lips I had never heard about and may explain a few guns I messed up over the years. Dammit, to myself. Clean it well with Hoppes #9.... wipe it lightly with a silicone rag or mineral oil on a rag. No oil on or near any wood. Practically no oil. I am actually changing the springs on a new Ruger Wrangler 22 single action so your spring tip helped too. Thanks again. 7 years later , this man and his video are still helping people. Pretty awesome. Stop slopping oil everywhere, it attracts grit ....makes perfect sense.
Thank you for that short segment on magazine disassembly. I had a magazine that was gumming up and wasn't delivering the final round. I didn't know how to disassemble it, so I was just holding the follower down with a screwdriver and using a Q-tip with Hoppe's to clean around inside, hoping it would also clean the follower. Actual disassembly should be much easier and more effective.
Mineral spirits for carbon, brass bore brush, nilon tooth brush, cut up old t shirt patches, a jag, silicone rag and 3 minutes. Not a religion! Thanks for sharing!
@Palm Coast Adventures you actually can but I don't you have to be careful of the muzzle of you pull it back I push through then remove it and go again, little more work but worth it.
You never disappoint! You are the voice of experience and common sense this platform needs more of. Hoppes is a fine product. Very well priced. They have been in business for many, many decades for a reason. They make good products at good prices. Also you can get a pack of three brushes from dollar tree. A dollar for one steel brush, one copper brush and one nylon brush. Great deal for extra brushes to throw in your bag or truck. Great video as always. As I said. You sir, never disappoint. The only thing I do really differently is, I keep an oil soaked rag around and I wipe my guns down frequently. It just gets rid of my grubby greasy fingerprints.
Thanks for a great video. Finally someone talking sense about the lubrication of handguns. I see videos out there for the Sig 226 and those guys are literally slathering the rails with grease - it's squeezing out all over the place when they rack the slide. I see guys at my club with heavily oiled guns - you can't touch them without getting oil all over your hands. I confess I do run a patch lightly coated with Breakfree CLP over the barrel and over the rails of my pistols, but it's just a very light film that is left.
i usually take a q-tip and drop oil on the tip and use that to oil everything, like a mini silicone cloth. i am with you i love using silicone cloths, i dont use them for my stainless guns but use them for all my blued guns and rifles to protect them especially where the barrel is in contact with the wood stock. definitely like your video and you look like a Ruger man like me, i carried my sr1911 for 2 years until i got my sr9 last week, much lighter lol
Very well presented and invaluable information for a first time 9 mm handgun owner like myself... Simple breakdown like you're showing, is easy enough, but I'll definitely go to the gunsmith for any really detailed breakdown for cleaning.
Again with all due respect to your experience and knowledge I checked all the user manuals for all the guns I own and the user manual for all of them(CZ, S&W, Beretta) have statements instructing you to lightly lube the gun and even indicate where to lube them. But heh, what do they know? They just make them. Who listens to them?
Wish I had met you 40 years ago. Now I think I have to take all of my magazines apart and make sure they are not oiled up, although I have not experienced issues. I do not shoot very much anymore but I do want them all in good working order . I just bought a used 10/22 that I took apart and cleaned using your video. Thank you.
Hey GunBlue490, nice to see you're back - and with a major leap in video quality! Congratulations! It's looking good! I really like your "no BS" approach, your encyclopaedic knowledge and knowledge of accurate shooting. Keep 'em comingf! All the best, Rob
"Guns don't have to feel slick, they only have to fire." You are the first and only person I've heard say this, and it makes a lot of sense. I am a new proud owner of a beretta, and I found this video to be very helpful. Thank you!
I've been struggling lately with the question of oiling my guns. What type? How often? How much? And everybody has something different to say. Once I heard this rationale for no oil being necessary, it all made sense. What a relief! Thank you very kindly.
You're my boy Blue! Thanks for this no nonsense clarification on how this should be done. I admit that I was once an excessive oiler. I do still like to put a VERY THIN coat on springs and unfinished surfaces. My work causes my firearms to be exposed to water fairly often and marine environments, so I think that it's a good idea for me in my unique situation.
Always learning as much as I can and following every suggestion, treat my EDC (Sig p365X) the way recommended here have never oiled it except the wipe down at the end with a flannel/cotton cloth I keep in a zip lock baggie, lightly soaked with basic mineral oil. Clean it with Hoppe's No. 9 and wipe dry. That pistol has run flawless and looks brand new after nearly two-years.
Same here. Needed a 1911 and decided to go with a used SR1911 45. The deal was too good to pass up. Ran 300rds of various 230gr FMJ and HSTs. Not a single problem. Hear great things about Ruger’s customer service regarding any issues.
Answered many of my questions and concerns about what I have been experiencing on my weapons. I'm not a young man but I have just recently had time to get out all the weapons I have collected over fifty or more years, many were still dirty. No excuses, just lack of knowledge and time. Have recently started collecting hand guns and was needing guidance in taking care of them. The 22s are so dirty after firing and with oil like the owners manual suggested it is a gummy mess. Thank you RS
I just bought a Ruger SR .45 1911 like yours. I took it out and shot it as soon as I could right out of the box. I felt guilty because I didn't take it apart and make sure it was oiled. After listening to you, I'm going to follow your advice. By the way, before I bought my Rug was considering a Tauris loaded stainless and they had a video showing how to clean it. They didn't use any oil, just cleaned it and put it back together. I didn't buy a Tauris because I prefer a series 70. Your presentations are excellent, thank you.
Sir, I must say you really made me rethink a lot of stuff that I've learned. It's an honour listening to your videos. You really simplify things. Thanks a lot.
“Oil has no place in a firearm. There’s no need to oil your gun”. Yet Bill Wilson who makes custom 1911’s he sells for thousands of dollars basically says he would rather have his gun dripping with oil before he cleans it. Then in the next breathe he says oil and carbon from a dirty gun makes a lapping compound. Is it any wonder people don’t know what in the hell to do or believe. Because there are so many different opinions out there and every “expert” even contradicts even their own selves.
That shine is a natural polishing effect, the same as what a person does when they do lapidary work to polish a stone or a ring. You can fire 1,000 rounds or you can polish or you can buffer it yourself. Kind of like when you buffer your cars' finish except doing it once is all you need and it will always be slick.
I remember learning to clean firearms as a kid. It was Hoppes 9 and Hoppes oil. I did it that way for over a decade. Then the internet came along and I found out I was “wrong” so I changed my heathen ways. I used every wallet draining array of fluids that would say using this will improve your life and MOA. Another decade passed and I found out at last, that what I started with was cheaper and just the same.
Great video. I'm of the same school of gun cleaning. In the military we never oiled any of our weapons. We'd wipe them down and clean the carbon buildup where necessary and they functioned as they should. Cleaning is vital to any weapon maintenance, but if everything fits like it should then the mechanics will be solid and oil/grease is only going to cause you problems. Again, great video.
That was my same experience, too. Excess oil was an invitation to a jammed gun in the constant and everpresent dust in Vietnam. Keeping a gun clean, lightly wiped with oil was the best insurance.
Use tungsten disulfide (Ws2)! Dry powder, slipperiest thing on the planet, sheds carbon, bonds to metal by rubbing it on, doesn't attract dirt, doesn't come off, withstands 100,000 lbs. of force, eliminates wear. I run my guns dry with NO problems or signs of wear. Better than oil (oil attracts dirt) but if you are worried of what I say, Ws2 also blends well with oil and can be used together. I've been using it in my car's engine oil for 12 years and the engine is like brand new (no wear!!). Nasa uses Tungsten disulfide (Ws2) on the Mars rover. Great for guns! I use a short bristle 1/4 in. paint brush and a q tip to rub it on.
I don’t want to be oiling my gun when I’m cleaning it , I want to be cleaning it when I’m cleaning it ...and a bullet is to a cartridge as flour is to bread ... sage Yankee Almanac advice . Can’t argue with that 🙏👏👍🏻😂
Sir, finding your channel was a Godsend. I've seen so many videos and blogs promoting this potion or that technique, it was mind-boggling. Experience and superior knowledge like yours will always cut through the B.S. When I heard your advice on minimal lube, I knew you were the real deal. My father in law has repaired mechanical watches as a hobby for many years, and the most important rule he taught me is clean components and just enough watch oil to wet the end of a hair. He has the same little bottle of oil he bought many years ago. Also, anybody that's ever worked their car knows that oil and grease slopped all around make for a dirty grimy mess. I'd guess a lot of gun owners are like 16 year old boys with their first car- they might have a vague idea of how it all works, and because they dearly love that car, they're hoping that the magic potion in the brightly colored bottle with the great ads and the testimonials from "everybody" will really make their car faster. They want to do SOMETHING, so they put on those stickers, the colored spark plug wires. That 16 year old boy grows up, but he still wants to do magic to his "toy." Regarding the solvent in the clear squeeze bottle- I'm sorry but I'm not clear- is that Hoppe's solvent? Hearing you talk about a no-oil philosophy for shooting in cold climates, I thought you might get a kick out of the video with the Beretta 92 lubed with Italian Gun Grease, ziplock bagged and frozen in a block of ice. th-cam.com/video/1s6Cv3IIKbY/w-d-xo.html. They make amazing claims, but I wouldn't think a water based product would be the ideal protectant for metal...
Now that is some no BS common sense cleaning advise and instruction. Very excellent. I also have a 1911 that I have never oiled , and it has never failed to run. If someone has one that is failing to run, it is not because of a lack of oil.
Gunblue: Just want to say: I mostly go with Ruger for revolvers and pistols. I love quality and they back their products also made in USA. I got the Redhawk 5050 (beautiful) next SR1911 Commander :) Thank you for your time
Sorry for what may be a stupid question, but I haven't seen it covered anywhere. Should pistol barrels (mainly talking about semi-autos) always be cleaned with the rod pushed toward the muzzle? And you are correct, the amount if flat out wrong information on the internet is scary. You are the only source I now trust. Thanks for everything!
I recently saw a video done by Tim Harmsen (Military Arms Channel), where he stripped all the lube off a 1911, then proceeded to rapid-fire dozens of rounds. The Colt 1911 he was using functioned perfectly, with not so much as a hiccup! It made a believer of me: over-lubing is a cardinal sin.
After watching this video, I immediately subscribed to your channel...not only because of the superb, no-nonsense content, but also because of your unmistakable northern New England style. Not accent, style! I'm in southern Maine, right "up the road" from where I suspect you are, and am happy to call such a kindred spirit a neighbor.
I picked up a Ruger SR1911-----------so far I really like it. I m watching your videos on cleaning it as the last time I cleaned a 1911 was Navy boot camp in 1975. Thanks for the time and effort you put in
It is a very good gun, which I believe has a number of notable advantages over the US model 1911 we carried back then. It features stainless, has an integral safety/slide stop spring tube, features a beveled magazine well, extended anti-bite grip safety spur, fabulous front and rear combat sights, close fitted barrel bushing, and more modern, tougher steel. With run of the mill loads, mine groups into the black with all shots on a 25 yard NRA slow fire target. With my own +P service load, using premium 230 grain jacketed bullets, it groups all shots into the X-ring of that target. I've never fired a 45 with greater accuracy, at any price. The slide has great "slide wiggle" which assures that it will never seize, as often occurs with tight fitting slides. JMB purposely designed that slide wiggle into his design, which has nothing to do with accuracy, but everything to do with dependability. As long as the barrel is fitted snugly within the slide, and the sights are solidly attached, it makes no difference if the slide is loose on the grip, as it always repositions itself exactly the same from shot to shot anyway. All that for a bargain price over other 1911s. Good luck with it!
+GunBlue490 Thanks a lot for all your info----you have a great deal of know how and are an excellent teacher. Im going to go over your videos a few times as every time I watch I learn a little more. Wish I could sit down and talk and pick your brain on things thanks much and thanks for your service
Great vid and presentation. I only recently got back into shooting pistols, and was surprised by the lubrication fads that seem prevalent. Thanks for doing this...very helpful. I have already passed this on to my niece and nephew. God Bless!
thank you for taking time to share your knowledge and experience with us. I really enjoy your videos it reminds me of the time I use to spend with my late grandfather.
Another great instructional video. Much of what we see out there about how to clean is based on particular products, and really comes down to selling a product. Tried and true methods that stand the test of time is where it's at. Thanks for the work you are doing.
I really like your videos. We have very similar backgrounds, training, and professions. This is the first video where I disagree with you. I am still involved in training and almost every semi automatic pistol or AR rifle malfunction (Glock, Sig, Beretta .... all brands malfunction) is due to NOT ENOUGH LUBRICATION. While I agree with you that oiling pins, hammers, triggers etc etc is non sense I must say that in a training environment the idea of not lubing the slide rails will never make it through the day. I have a Sig P229 in 40 S&W that I carried for a living for 10 years. Probably has 20K rounds fired through it. The only malfunction I ever had in the gun was due to lack of lubrication. For a CCW your method will work fine but for a working gun that gets shot a lot very few guns can make it through a couple hundred rounds without lube.
@@Kilian2 I don't recommend any certain brands. They all work decent enough. If I had to recommend something I would say Breakfree CLP in the drip bottle. It is cheap and has NEVER failed me. Grease vs oil? I use grease sometimes in slide rails. I like grease mostly for aluminum frame semi autos. Sig and Beretta get grease.
Larry Vickers agrees, in a tactical environment. He's retired Tier 1 Operator (SOCOM). "The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry." Even and especially in sand.
Love your videos, Gunblue490! Been cleaning and lubing all my guns since 1966 with no drama! Love the smell of Hoppes though! The smell reminds me of my childhood in the early 60's when I would clean and lube my single shot H&R .22 and my Stevens break open 20 ga. shotgun! I agree with your opinion on cleaning vs. lubing. You do one or the other, not both at the same time with the same product. Solvent is solvent. Lubricant is lubricant. Use some LSA if you want to lube your guns. I have some old LSA, but mostly, I just use regular mineral oil from a bottle that I bought back about 2005.
Last time I wrote was about scopes because with age I needed one for my Henry 22 later I bought my 1st semi auto pisol the Remington R1 .45. I love the weapon. It just feels solid. So tonight I started looking for proper cleaning. I have cleaned it once for practice purposes but Havn"t got to shoot it much so all that cleaning isn"t necessary bu I liked what you said about the oils and wiping down the weapon. Good video
Thanks so much for demystifying this whole topic! We've all heard so many (often conflicting) cockamamie theories about lubing guns. It's wonderful to have someone with your experience and knowledge put this issue to rest once and for all! Now, I assume this same common-sense approach would apply to long guns as well, right? Thanks again!
I sure wish I had seen your vids before I cleaned my pistols. I oiled everything cause I didn't know any better. Now, I feel I should completely strip it and clean it to get all the oil out.
For me, the idea of oiling was to keep bare metal surfaces from oxidizing. At work we are required to oil after using solvents ( acetone ) to keep the bare surfaces from oxidation. Every bit of what you said here makes perfect sense, but since I rarely shoot, and my handguns get very little use other then one for carry, I had always worried about the barrel oxidizing while sitting for long periods. I have an older Taurus PT100-AF that MAYBE had about 300 rounds through it years ago. The wearing off of the black in the slide and rail ares in some places, and on the outter surface of the barrel always worried me. I know its not an expensive handgun, but I do worry about this. By the way, the Taurus is kept dry, no oil, no lube, no grease. The inside of the barrel is what I worry about. My new carry weapon, ( M&P40c ) will be the same. Kept dry. Thanks so much, I'm learning alot.
I always recommend, and use, a lightly oiled cloth for corrosion protection. A light, invisible, undetectable film is highly desirable, and will not attract dirt or debris. Mechanical oiling is undesirable.
I agree. And luckily, I havent ever oiled the mechanics of my Taurus, and wont withmy new M&P40c. My only concern at this point for me, is my Brazilian Taurus PT100-AF is not an expensive firearm, and I worry if it might be prone to deteriation. I actually love this firearm, and hope to keep it a useful. Thanks again for the reply. Subscribed!
+Blaydrnnnr My experience with those who own Taurus guns runs the gamut. Those that love them have good ones, while those who have been disappointed got one that wasn't reliable. Sounds like you are of the former, so enjoy. They are sound guns, based on sound designs of other companies, and you should have no concerns.
+GunBlue490 Thanks for the reassurance. Guess time will tell. It might just be sentimental. It was my first firearm buy. Uneducated I admit, but still want to at least good care of it. I know keeping a firearm dry will always be an argumentative point, but with your years of prestigious service behind you, with manufacturer's and such, its a valued opinion. Thanks again for the informative post!!
+Blaydrnnnr Many folks don't read or heed the maintenance instructions in their owner's manual. The universal manufacturer warning (Ruger, Remington, Winchester, etc.) is to avoid over-oiling, and simply wipe parts down with a lightly oiled cloth. Oil getting into a chamber is very dangerous, and oil in a magazine will invite malfunction. Oil in a mechanism won't hurt a gun, but does absolutely nothing beneficial, and collects crud that DOES abrade and eventually wear mechanisms.
I operated my 1911's under the premise, the more oil, the better!! At the end of shooting sessions my guns were a muddy mess. Then I started watching your channel. After cleaning, I only applied a light coat of LSA to critical areas and wiped it off. Now at the end of a day of shooting, my guns look like they were just cleaned! Thank you sir for that important lesson.
This gentleman is not only very smart, but such a classy person as well.
America needs more men like GunBlue490.
So true. He is a gem !
I concur! Listen to the man that has been doing it longer than most youtubers have been alive.
NRA Fudds like him are the reason we get gun bans enacted.
With long long long videos that make you asleep
Military police , Civilian police, Police sniper, professional armorer...I would hazard to guess that mr. blue knows what he is talking about. If one wishes to disagree with him, go ahead , I don't think he is particularly interested! I just found this channel and it is the sanest firearms channel on TH-cam. Thank you very much for helping me, and I am sure many many other people, by sharing your knowledge for free. That's a very nice thing to do and a very fine gift for me.
Sir please tell us what you think about the practice of moly( molybdenum) coatings on bullets
"[These guns] are not made of cupcakes." Classic line. Seriously helpful and informative videos. Thank You.
If they're not made of cupcakes there must be some other thing compelling me to put one in my mouth.
@@chaimafaghet7343You ok, man?
The voice of experience. Listen to him.
Ok! But properly lubricate your guns.
Thanks, as a new gun user, your years of wisdom are already serving both a better understanding of firearms and better care.
We need folks with the experience to back up their advice like you to continue setting the record straight when it comes to firearm maintenance. Other than Hicock 45, you are the only one advising against oiling a handgun. I believe you guys are correct and have followed this very important advice. Thank you and keep making these very important and informative videos.
I love the old school American guys...little or no profanity.
You can hear him cuss just a little in a couple of videos but it's classy and making a major point.
Guys got class 👍👍👍
No disrespect intended but guns need a light coat of oil on areas of friction. It’s as simple as this: I recently took a glock to range and after about 50rds of so it jammed. I took it apart and applied a light coat of oil put it back together and fired 100 Rd’s or so without jamming. The whole reason I “carry” a gun is to defend mine and my family’s life. I need to be sure my gun will function correctly when I need to use it. If you don’t think your gun needs lubrications fine but my guns needs lubrication to assure smooth action, prevent rust and protect it while extending gun life by preventing wear which I feel lubrication does. Hell, I guess my car motor doesn’t need any lubrication because those metal on metal parts are just “marrying”. No, your gun doesn’t need to be wet with oil but they need a very light coating of lubricant.
Agree 100%!
Sorry very poor analogy. Auto parts are not made from hardened gun metal.
@docrock83 I agree.
@@truthteller6701what would be a better example? Imo.. The only reason to not lightly oil would be if the carbon or debris is collecting on the oil causing more wear and friction, etc..
This man has forgotten more than the so called experts!
SUPERB !!!
Thank you for investing your time and knowledge in proper cleaning of weapons, you helped me understand WHY I do not need to oil my guns. I was that 2 drop guy but not anymore after listening to you explain the reasons for not oiling. I actually laughed when you said "some of you look for places to put a drop of oil and that will gum up your gun." God bless you!
GunBlue490 I would like to thank you for this video. It is very informative, I used to use oil and grease in my guns, and would malfunction at lest every one hundred rounds. Now all I do is clean the parts, dry them and put one drop of oil on the whole gun, and then dry it, The guns work flawlessly now, and require almost no cleaning after shooting. Most of the fouling is in the barrel and that is it. No more discoloration on my revolver, no more malfunctions. I used to slather my guns and oil and would find rust popping up here and there, and would think " Needs more oil", well sense I have been using only a drop of oil, no rust or patina, or discoloration on my guns. Thank you, you have done quite a service by posting this.
Your expertise is much appreciated. It just makes total sense not to oil up a surface that is going to be subjected to the carbon and grime etc.of a firearm and create an abrasive 'sludge' that will counteract all you are trying to accomplish! As you stated these hardened steels will outlast generations of use ….if just kept clean and dry. Refreshing and sage advice from a professional! Thank you for your time and efforts.
don't want any oil in magazines, if the oil gets into the primers they can misfire.
Well after the the social media purge I been binge watching these video at work. I wish I could of found more of these videos years ago
Same! I really have no idea how this man has never come up in my feed before, but better late then never I guess.
Great information - very revealing insight. I have for 58 years cleaned my firearms without using any oil. Always use Hoppe's products. Have never had a single problem.
50 years from a certified armorer point of view, yes please, no tactical nonsense, yes please, a cartridge is to a gun like flour is to bread! this man is a genuine genius, plus he has an American behavior that is raw nowadays!❤️🤘
Great video. 👍
I'm -old- experienced like you. I use about exactly the same tools and solvents.
I agree with using cleaning jags over loop tips for bore or chamber cleaning. No need to drag a dirty patch BACK through the bore. Push it out and let it fall off. Loop tips are good for cleaning things like magazines.
I usually just remove the wood grips and set them aside during cleaning (for guns with wood grips)
Too much oil on anything is just a dirt/grit/sand magnet.
Brushes...bronze brushes absolutely! Make sure they have a BRASS core (not steel) and a looped tip, NOT a cut tip. They will cost a few cents more. They are worth it.
Don't use rifle brushes to clean revolvers. They can be too long to completely enter the cylinder "window" and you won't be able to reverse them and pull them back out! Use a shorter "pistol" brush.
I've also been using silicone wiping clothes for decades! They work great!
I'm one more person who needs to thank you. I was never taught or shown how to clean a firearm . I could guess but never sure , so Thank you for passing you're knowledge .
+Paul Microns Glad to be of assistance!
My name is Joe and I'm a over oiler..LOL I never cleaned my .22's, because as a kid I was told .22lr never need cleaning due to the bullet lube used. I did and still do clean all my other calibers meticulously. I started cleaning my .22's a few years ago and recently been using less lubricant on my firearms.
+Joe Simeone - I bet you're tempted to use 20W-50 in your car, too! LOL
Actually I do use 20-50 in my work van or straight 30 weight in summer. I guess I'm easy to read.. lol
I absolutely love what this fine gentleman is saying! Awesome instruction!
+Major Payne Thank you for your kind words. May God bless you.
Yea!! He politely makes you feel stupid!! LOL
America has good men like our dear Gunblue, they are out there now opening their shops, day in day out. Reliable, forthright, accountable and willing to share/teach all they’ve learned from a lifetime of experience. Or simply for hire at a fair honest rate. God bless them
“Not made from cupcakes” choked my coffee thru my nose! Thought i was gonna die. Ha! Love this guy
I just got done removing most of the oil and grease from my guns, including my AR. Thank you.
Be careful!
@@mnrodriguez Why? I'm inclined to listen to people that have been there and done that but my manufacturers instructions expressly said there are six tiny places that need to be oiled lightly.
@@franny5295I'll go with what the manufacturer says and oil. But yes, too much oil can pickup debris. So use the correct amount imo.
I absolutely agree. No magic or mystery involved in cleaning. I remember from my army days, no need to use any expensive stuff. We always used to clean the mags too as a matter of fact.
This why I like watching TH-cam when someone with tons of experience is willing to share their expertise to me that had no idea how to clean a gun and was doing it wrong. Thank you sir. Much appreciated. Now I am going to clean all the oil from my guns.
Thank you for this video.
I was one of those oil drenching fools but no more.
I did exactly what you said not to do about all the seams near the trigger and hammer so I have to clean all that oil out and not add anymore to it.
The tip on the oily mag lips I had never heard about and may explain a few guns I messed up over the years.
Dammit, to myself.
Clean it well with Hoppes #9.... wipe it lightly with a silicone rag or mineral oil on a rag.
No oil on or near any wood. Practically no oil.
I am actually changing the springs on a new Ruger Wrangler 22 single action so your spring tip helped too.
Thanks again.
7 years later , this man and his video are still helping people.
Pretty awesome.
Stop slopping oil everywhere, it attracts grit ....makes perfect sense.
Thank you for that short segment on magazine disassembly. I had a magazine that was gumming up and wasn't delivering the final round. I didn't know how to disassemble it, so I was just holding the follower down with a screwdriver and using a Q-tip with Hoppe's to clean around inside, hoping it would also clean the follower.
Actual disassembly should be much easier and more effective.
Mineral spirits for carbon, brass bore brush, nilon tooth brush, cut up old t shirt patches, a jag, silicone rag and 3 minutes. Not a religion! Thanks for sharing!
The jag follows the rifling turns as you push it through the bore, their all I use
@Palm Coast Adventures you actually can but I don't you have to be careful of the muzzle of you pull it back I push through then remove it and go again, little more work but worth it.
"There's no need to oil the spring. The spring is going to spring itself, regardless." LOL. I love this guy. Excellent advice.
"You just clean the thing, and that's it." Fantastic quote.
You never disappoint! You are the voice of experience and common sense this platform needs more of. Hoppes is a fine product. Very well priced. They have been in business for many, many decades for a reason. They make good products at good prices. Also you can get a pack of three brushes from dollar tree. A dollar for one steel brush, one copper brush and one nylon brush. Great deal for extra brushes to throw in your bag or truck. Great video as always. As I said. You sir, never disappoint. The only thing I do really differently is, I keep an oil soaked rag around and I wipe my guns down frequently. It just gets rid of my grubby greasy fingerprints.
I have NEVER seen a more useful instructional video than this one. So much I DIDN'T know. Thank you so much!
Thanks for a great video. Finally someone talking sense about the lubrication of handguns. I see videos out there for the Sig 226 and those guys are literally slathering the rails with grease - it's squeezing out all over the place when they rack the slide. I see guys at my club with heavily oiled guns - you can't touch them without getting oil all over your hands. I confess I do run a patch lightly coated with Breakfree CLP over the barrel and over the rails of my pistols, but it's just a very light film that is left.
Ross Henderson Your lubrication method is 100% perfect and requires no confession.
i usually take a q-tip and drop oil on the tip and use that to oil everything, like a mini silicone cloth. i am with you i love using silicone cloths, i dont use them for my stainless guns but use them for all my blued guns and rifles to protect them especially where the barrel is in contact with the wood stock. definitely like your video and you look like a Ruger man like me, i carried my sr1911 for 2 years until i got my sr9 last week, much lighter lol
Very well presented and invaluable information for a first time 9 mm handgun owner like myself... Simple breakdown like you're showing, is easy enough, but I'll definitely go to the gunsmith for any really detailed breakdown for cleaning.
Again with all due respect to your experience and knowledge I checked all the user manuals for all the guns I own and the user manual for all of them(CZ, S&W, Beretta) have statements instructing you to lightly lube the gun and even indicate where to lube them. But heh, what do they know? They just make them. Who listens to them?
Wish I had met you 40 years ago. Now I think I have to take all of my magazines apart and make sure they are not oiled up, although I have not experienced issues. I do not shoot very much anymore but I do want them all in good working order .
I just bought a used 10/22 that I took apart and cleaned using your video. Thank you.
Hey GunBlue490, nice to see you're back - and with a major leap in video quality! Congratulations! It's looking good!
I really like your "no BS" approach, your encyclopaedic knowledge and knowledge of accurate shooting. Keep 'em comingf!
All the best, Rob
"Guns don't have to feel slick, they only have to fire."
You are the first and only person I've heard say this, and it makes a lot of sense. I am a new proud owner of a beretta, and I found this video to be very helpful. Thank you!
Knowledgeable man sharing his many years of experience, much respect to you Sir 👌
I've been struggling lately with the question of oiling my guns. What type? How often? How much? And everybody has something different to say. Once I heard this rationale for no oil being necessary, it all made sense. What a relief! Thank you very kindly.
You're my boy Blue! Thanks for this no nonsense clarification on how this should be done. I admit that I was once an excessive oiler. I do still like to put a VERY THIN coat on springs and unfinished surfaces. My work causes my firearms to be exposed to water fairly often and marine environments, so I think that it's a good idea for me in my unique situation.
A light application with a soft flannel cloth is the perfect amount for all environments. Than you!
Always learning as much as I can and following every suggestion, treat my EDC (Sig p365X) the way recommended here have never oiled it except the wipe down at the end with a flannel/cotton cloth I keep in a zip lock baggie, lightly soaked with basic mineral oil. Clean it with Hoppe's No. 9 and wipe dry. That pistol has run flawless and looks brand new after nearly two-years.
If the Ruger SR1911 is good enough for you, it will be fantastic for me being my 1st and only 1911. Thanks for your informative review sir.
That's what I was thinking too!
Same here. Needed a 1911 and decided to go with a used SR1911 45. The deal was too good to pass up. Ran 300rds of various 230gr FMJ and HSTs. Not a single problem. Hear great things about Ruger’s customer service regarding any issues.
Smartest man on any firearm video truthfully
"Its no different than cleaning your toilet bowl. You just clean the thing and thats it." I love this guy
Great videos. I have been shooting for years and wish that I had this knowledge back when. Mr. Richards really knows what he is talking about.
Fort Polk Bravo Infantry AIT. Another excellent video. You are so right. I learned the har
Answered many of my questions and concerns about what I have been experiencing on my weapons. I'm not a young man but I have just recently had time to get out all the weapons I have collected over fifty or more years, many were still dirty. No excuses, just lack of knowledge and time. Have recently started collecting hand guns and was needing guidance in taking care of them. The 22s are so dirty after firing and with oil like the owners manual suggested it is a gummy mess.
Thank you
RS
I just bought a Ruger SR .45 1911 like yours. I took it out and shot it as soon as I could right out of the box. I felt guilty because I didn't take it apart and make sure it was oiled. After listening to you, I'm going to follow your advice. By the way, before I bought my Rug was considering a Tauris loaded stainless and they had a video showing how to clean it. They didn't use any oil, just cleaned it and put it back together. I didn't buy a Tauris because I prefer a series 70. Your presentations are excellent, thank you.
Sir, I must say you really made me rethink a lot of stuff that I've learned. It's an honour listening to your videos. You really simplify things. Thanks a lot.
“Oil has no place in a firearm. There’s no need to oil your gun”. Yet Bill Wilson who makes custom 1911’s he sells for thousands of dollars basically says he would rather have his gun dripping with oil before he cleans it. Then in the next breathe he says oil and carbon from a dirty gun makes a lapping compound. Is it any wonder people don’t know what in the hell to do or believe. Because there are so many different opinions out there and every “expert” even contradicts even their own selves.
That shine is a natural polishing effect, the same as what a person does when they do lapidary work to polish a stone or a ring. You can fire 1,000 rounds or you can polish or you can buffer it yourself. Kind of like when you buffer your cars' finish except doing it once is all you need and it will always be slick.
Love your videos. You and Hickok are the best on TH-cam. Two different types of videos but both very informative..
You're the best sir. Pleasure to watch your videos
It’s a pleasure listening to you sir. I find myself relaxing as though someone is telling me a pleasant story!
Fight Justice so true. He is a calming influence, especially today.
Now this is what I have been looking for! Clear and simple instructions from an expert. I'm a fan for life. Thanks for the great vid!
"Not made of cupcakes". I love it. Great video. Thank you for your service sir.
First video where the furniture is addressed. I've been asking myself how the wood grips would be affected by cleaners and oils. Thank you.
There is no substitute for experience.....a lesson well learned from this guy
I remember learning to clean firearms as a kid. It was Hoppes 9 and Hoppes oil. I did it that way for over a decade. Then the internet came along and I found out I was “wrong” so I changed my heathen ways. I used every wallet draining array of fluids that would say using this will improve your life and MOA. Another decade passed and I found out at last, that what I started with was cheaper and just the same.
Great video. I'm of the same school of gun cleaning. In the military we never oiled any of our weapons. We'd wipe them down and clean the carbon buildup where necessary and they functioned as they should. Cleaning is vital to any weapon maintenance, but if everything fits like it should then the mechanics will be solid and oil/grease is only going to cause you problems. Again, great video.
That was my same experience, too. Excess oil was an invitation to a jammed gun in the constant and everpresent dust in Vietnam. Keeping a gun clean, lightly wiped with oil was the best insurance.
Use tungsten disulfide (Ws2)! Dry powder, slipperiest thing on the planet, sheds carbon, bonds to metal by rubbing it on, doesn't attract dirt, doesn't come off, withstands 100,000 lbs. of force, eliminates wear. I run my guns dry with NO problems or signs of wear. Better than oil (oil attracts dirt) but if you are worried of what I say, Ws2 also blends well with oil and can be used together. I've been using it in my car's engine oil for 12 years and the engine is like brand new (no wear!!). Nasa uses Tungsten disulfide (Ws2) on the Mars rover. Great for guns! I use a short bristle 1/4 in. paint brush and a q tip to rub it on.
I don’t want to be oiling my gun when I’m cleaning it , I want to be cleaning it when I’m cleaning it ...and a bullet is to a cartridge as flour is to bread ... sage Yankee Almanac advice . Can’t argue with that 🙏👏👍🏻😂
Sir, finding your channel was a Godsend. I've seen so many videos and blogs promoting this potion or that technique, it was mind-boggling. Experience and superior knowledge like yours will always cut through the B.S.
When I heard your advice on minimal lube, I knew you were the real deal. My father in law has repaired mechanical watches as a hobby for many years, and the most important rule he taught me is clean components and just enough watch oil to wet the end of a hair. He has the same little bottle of oil he bought many years ago. Also, anybody that's ever worked their car knows that oil and grease slopped all around make for a dirty grimy mess.
I'd guess a lot of gun owners are like 16 year old boys with their first car- they might have a vague idea of how it all works, and because they dearly love that car, they're hoping that the magic potion in the brightly colored bottle with the great ads and the testimonials from "everybody" will really make their car faster. They want to do SOMETHING, so they put on those stickers, the colored spark plug wires. That 16 year old boy grows up, but he still wants to do magic to his "toy."
Regarding the solvent in the clear squeeze bottle- I'm sorry but I'm not clear- is that Hoppe's solvent?
Hearing you talk about a no-oil philosophy for shooting in cold climates, I thought you might get a kick out of the video with the Beretta 92 lubed with Italian Gun Grease, ziplock bagged and frozen in a block of ice. th-cam.com/video/1s6Cv3IIKbY/w-d-xo.html. They make amazing claims, but I wouldn't think a water based product would be the ideal protectant for metal...
Now that is some no BS common sense cleaning advise and instruction. Very excellent. I also have a 1911 that I have never oiled , and it has never failed to run. If someone has one that is failing to run, it is not because of a lack of oil.
Good credientals being a certified armoror for Ruger, S&W. & Remington
I am impressed, I was fully mistaken then... I really appreciate your teaching and your time
God bless you sir! Great information and great to pass on to my kids as they learn about taking care of firearms.
Gunblue: Just want to say: I mostly go with Ruger for revolvers and pistols. I love quality and they back their products also made in USA. I got the Redhawk 5050 (beautiful) next SR1911 Commander :) Thank you for your time
Sorry for what may be a stupid question, but I haven't seen it covered anywhere. Should pistol barrels (mainly talking about semi-autos) always be cleaned with the rod pushed toward the muzzle?
And you are correct, the amount if flat out wrong information on the internet is scary. You are the only source I now trust. Thanks for everything!
Very nice! Straightforward and effective. No need to chase the latest 'thing'. Thank you
I recently saw a video done by Tim Harmsen (Military Arms Channel), where he stripped all the lube off a 1911, then proceeded to rapid-fire dozens of rounds. The Colt 1911 he was using functioned perfectly, with not so much as a hiccup! It made a believer of me: over-lubing is a cardinal sin.
Exactly.
They were made to do that.
Q
Thanks for all the years of experience information you are sharing with us. I try and share it with the gun forum I frequent.
After watching this video, I immediately subscribed to your channel...not only because of the superb, no-nonsense content, but also because of your unmistakable northern New England style. Not accent, style! I'm in southern Maine, right "up the road" from where I suspect you are, and am happy to call such a kindred spirit a neighbor.
I just saw a guy that applied so much oil on a gun that it was literally dripping wet. Love your channel..!
Gunblue: Again appreciate your expertise. I do go back to your TH-cam channel a lot. I appriciate learning from you
I believe spongy soft striker fired triggers are also an added safety since there is no manual one
I picked up a Ruger SR1911-----------so far I really like it. I m watching your videos on cleaning it as the last time I cleaned a 1911 was Navy boot camp in 1975. Thanks for the time and effort you put in
It is a very good gun, which I believe has a number of notable advantages over the US model 1911 we carried back then. It features stainless, has an integral safety/slide stop spring tube, features a beveled magazine well, extended anti-bite grip safety spur, fabulous front and rear combat sights, close fitted barrel bushing, and more modern, tougher steel. With run of the mill loads, mine groups into the black with all shots on a 25 yard NRA slow fire target. With my own +P service load, using premium 230 grain jacketed bullets, it groups all shots into the X-ring of that target. I've never fired a 45 with greater accuracy, at any price. The slide has great "slide wiggle" which assures that it will never seize, as often occurs with tight fitting slides. JMB purposely designed that slide wiggle into his design, which has nothing to do with accuracy, but everything to do with dependability. As long as the barrel is fitted snugly within the slide, and the sights are solidly attached, it makes no difference if the slide is loose on the grip, as it always repositions itself exactly the same from shot to shot anyway. All that for a bargain price over other 1911s. Good luck with it!
+GunBlue490 Thanks a lot for all your info----you have a great deal of know how and are an excellent teacher. Im going to go over your videos a few times as every time I watch I learn a little more. Wish I could sit down and talk and pick your brain on things thanks much and thanks for your service
Great vid and presentation. I only recently got back into shooting pistols, and was surprised by the lubrication fads that seem prevalent. Thanks for doing this...very helpful. I have already passed this on to my niece and nephew. God Bless!
Tip my hat to you sir! Teaching me so much and keeping it simple, much respect!
We scrub the hell out of our guns because that’s the way the sergeant taught us. Great video.
Very impressive explanation ~ in fact, your series of uploads are first class.
Thank you.
From London, England.
Anthony Shoto1 I'm very pleased by your comments. Not everyone agrees with you. Thank you, Anthony.
This has completely changed my routine for cleaning my firearms. Excellent instructions.
thank you for taking time to share your knowledge and experience with us. I really enjoy your videos it reminds me of the time I use to spend with my late grandfather.
Another great instructional video. Much of what we see out there about how to clean is based on particular products, and really comes down to selling a product. Tried and true methods that stand the test of time is where it's at. Thanks for the work you are doing.
Thanks for the lessons. My Pop would tell me "Don't kill it with kindness."
I really like your videos. We have very similar backgrounds, training, and professions. This is the first video where I disagree with you. I am still involved in training and almost every semi automatic pistol or AR rifle malfunction (Glock, Sig, Beretta .... all brands malfunction) is due to NOT ENOUGH LUBRICATION. While I agree with you that oiling pins, hammers, triggers etc etc is non sense I must say that in a training environment the idea of not lubing the slide rails will never make it through the day. I have a Sig P229 in 40 S&W that I carried for a living for 10 years. Probably has 20K rounds fired through it. The only malfunction I ever had in the gun was due to lack of lubrication. For a CCW your method will work fine but for a working gun that gets shot a lot very few guns can make it through a couple hundred rounds without lube.
I agree. I have always lubricated (thin coat) my guns. They work great and look like new after years.
What do you recommend as a lubricant? Also what is your stance on oil VS grease for handguns?
@@Kilian2 I don't recommend any certain brands. They all work decent enough. If I had to recommend something I would say Breakfree CLP in the drip bottle. It is cheap and has NEVER failed me. Grease vs oil? I use grease sometimes in slide rails. I like grease mostly for aluminum frame semi autos. Sig and Beretta get grease.
@@Kilian2, I use the thin Wilson combat ultimate lube II oil...it's great!
Larry Vickers agrees, in a tactical environment. He's retired Tier 1 Operator (SOCOM). "The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry." Even and especially in sand.
Love your videos, Gunblue490! Been cleaning and lubing all my guns since 1966 with no drama! Love the smell of Hoppes though! The smell reminds me of my childhood in the early 60's when I would clean and lube my single shot H&R .22 and my Stevens break open 20 ga. shotgun! I agree with your opinion on cleaning vs. lubing. You do one or the other, not both at the same time with the same product. Solvent is solvent. Lubricant is lubricant. Use some LSA if you want to lube your guns. I have some old LSA, but mostly, I just use regular mineral oil from a bottle that I bought back about 2005.
Even the manufacturers suggest a light lubrication, including a light coating of oil in the barrel to prevent rust....
Insightful and educating, thank you sir. Hope you make many more.
GunBlue - Thanks for this common man language concerning cleaning. Very simple. :-)
Last time I wrote was about scopes because with age I needed one for my Henry 22 later I bought my 1st semi auto pisol the Remington R1 .45. I love the weapon. It just feels solid. So tonight I started looking for proper cleaning. I have cleaned it once for practice purposes but Havn"t got to shoot it much so all that cleaning isn"t necessary bu I liked what you said about the oils and wiping down the weapon. Good video
Always great advice. Wish I had found your sight before I bought my guns.
Thanks so much for demystifying this whole topic! We've all heard so many (often conflicting) cockamamie theories about lubing guns. It's wonderful to have someone with your experience and knowledge put this issue to rest once and for all! Now, I assume this same common-sense approach would apply to long guns as well, right? Thanks again!
I sure wish I had seen your vids before I cleaned my pistols. I oiled everything cause I didn't know any better. Now, I feel I should completely strip it and clean it to get all the oil out.
Best gun cleaning video I have watched, Thank you Sir!!
Thank you.
John Vardine IValtro), washed his 911s with hot soap and water. He made a grease he developed for his 911s? RIP John Vardine. 😂😂😂
You da man, you forgot more about guns than most people will ever know....keep up the good info and see you on the next one.
For me, the idea of oiling was to keep bare metal surfaces from oxidizing. At work we are required to oil after using solvents ( acetone ) to keep the bare surfaces from oxidation. Every bit of what you said here makes perfect sense, but since I rarely shoot, and my handguns get very little use other then one for carry, I had always worried about the barrel oxidizing while sitting for long periods. I have an older Taurus PT100-AF that MAYBE had about 300 rounds through it years ago. The wearing off of the black in the slide and rail ares in some places, and on the outter surface of the barrel always worried me. I know its not an expensive handgun, but I do worry about this. By the way, the Taurus is kept dry, no oil, no lube, no grease. The inside of the barrel is what I worry about. My new carry weapon, ( M&P40c ) will be the same. Kept dry. Thanks so much, I'm learning alot.
I always recommend, and use, a lightly oiled cloth for corrosion protection. A light, invisible, undetectable film is highly desirable, and will not attract dirt or debris. Mechanical oiling is undesirable.
I agree. And luckily, I havent ever oiled the mechanics of my Taurus, and wont withmy new M&P40c. My only concern at this point for me, is my Brazilian Taurus PT100-AF is not an expensive firearm, and I worry if it might be prone to deteriation. I actually love this firearm, and hope to keep it a useful. Thanks again for the reply. Subscribed!
+Blaydrnnnr My experience with those who own Taurus guns runs the gamut. Those that love them have good ones, while those who have been disappointed got one that wasn't reliable. Sounds like you are of the former, so enjoy. They are sound guns, based on sound designs of other companies, and you should have no concerns.
+GunBlue490 Thanks for the reassurance. Guess time will tell. It might just be sentimental. It was my first firearm buy. Uneducated I admit, but still want to at least good care of it. I know keeping a firearm dry will always be an argumentative point, but with your years of prestigious service behind you, with manufacturer's and such, its a valued opinion. Thanks again for the informative post!!
+Blaydrnnnr Many folks don't read or heed the maintenance instructions in their owner's manual. The universal manufacturer warning (Ruger, Remington, Winchester, etc.) is to avoid over-oiling, and simply wipe parts down with a lightly oiled cloth. Oil getting into a chamber is very dangerous, and oil in a magazine will invite malfunction. Oil in a mechanism won't hurt a gun, but does absolutely nothing beneficial, and collects crud that DOES abrade and eventually wear mechanisms.