Truss isn't going to compensate for 40" tires on a Dana 30. You could truss/sleeve/gusset/chromo shafts & every reinforcement bracket under the sun, that doesn't change the weakest link in the equation and that's the Ring & Pinion. Even if you built up a Dana 30 as "bombproof" as you could possibly make it, after you do the math you'll realize that you could've went to the junkyard and got a JKR44 or SD60 for right around the same price if not cheaper
It costs $2500+ for a junkyard front JKR D44. Then he would have to regear the rear... Or buy the matching rear JKR D44 for another $1000+ (Used). I bought my F&R rubi axles for $3900 used. I priced out (parts only) Ford D60 front and Chevy 14B rear swap, using all Artec industries parts, Nitro gears, Adams driveshafts, ARB Lockers... to be around $8000. That is assuming doner axles cost me $1000. Plus, would have to buy new wheels.
@@patrickjamesmcb You don't need a Rubicon rear axle to match. I swapped a Rubicon front axle in my sport and had it geared to match, plugged the sensor holes and ran the pigtail to a rocker switch. The D44 in the sport is not really any less strong than the Rubicon. I have an aftermarket E-locker that's basically the same thing as the Rubicon axle, It just uses standard 30 spline shafts instead of 32 spline. Honestly I would imagine Rubicon's probably have a higher potential for ring and pinion failures when people put chromoly shafts in there.
@@JeepJeep234 I know that, but if you price out an e locker and gear set with master install kit, the used rubi rear axle will be around the same price... and you get higher spline count to boot.
@@patrickjamesmcb True, but on that same logic, you could do an axle spline conversion between 30-35 spline without any cost difference. If you decided to do it, you could get ahold of hardend gears, an ARB air locker, and a 35 spline conversion. And effectively be superior.
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Good Job
Great job man, keep up the good work.
Damn dude I wish I had 1/4 of your knowledge and hands on!! Sick!
Surprised you haven't installed the front bumper you picked up in Atlanta yet.
you get it powder coated after or paint it? I'm about to do my d30
Truss isn't going to compensate for 40" tires on a Dana 30. You could truss/sleeve/gusset/chromo shafts & every reinforcement bracket under the sun, that doesn't change the weakest link in the equation and that's the Ring & Pinion. Even if you built up a Dana 30 as "bombproof" as you could possibly make it, after you do the math you'll realize that you could've went to the junkyard and got a JKR44 or SD60 for right around the same price if not cheaper
It costs $2500+ for a junkyard front JKR D44. Then he would have to regear the rear... Or buy the matching rear JKR D44 for another $1000+ (Used). I bought my F&R rubi axles for $3900 used. I priced out (parts only) Ford D60 front and Chevy 14B rear swap, using all Artec industries parts, Nitro gears, Adams driveshafts, ARB Lockers... to be around $8000. That is assuming doner axles cost me $1000. Plus, would have to buy new wheels.
@@patrickjamesmcb You don't need a Rubicon rear axle to match. I swapped a Rubicon front axle in my sport and had it geared to match, plugged the sensor holes and ran the pigtail to a rocker switch. The D44 in the sport is not really any less strong than the Rubicon. I have an aftermarket E-locker that's basically the same thing as the Rubicon axle, It just uses standard 30 spline shafts instead of 32 spline. Honestly I would imagine Rubicon's probably have a higher potential for ring and pinion failures when people put chromoly shafts in there.
@@JeepJeep234 I know that, but if you price out an e locker and gear set with master install kit, the used rubi rear axle will be around the same price... and you get higher spline count to boot.
@@patrickjamesmcb True, but on that same logic, you could do an axle spline conversion between 30-35 spline without any cost difference. If you decided to do it, you could get ahold of hardend gears, an ARB air locker, and a 35 spline conversion. And effectively be superior.
@@JeepJeep234 True. If I could do it again, it would be a 14 bolt in the rear lol.
I’m looking to maybe do this how much was it to get welded and will a front trackbar bracket work with it when you go high steer?
Thanks and Does a trackbar bracket fit with that truss kit or you have to weld one on?
2017 Jeep jk you’d have to weld it on. The evo truss kit comes with one if you buy the whole kit
Watching closely to see how your Dana 30 holds up, would love to do this to mine. 👍🏼