Fairly sure both units have their own internal temp sensor mounted on or near the MOSFET string to shut the BMS down if it gets too hot from drawing too much current. It would be suicide not to include MOSFET temp shutdown. 200A continuous is questionable especially if you mount it inside your battery housing case where it doesn't get much air flow to help cooling. BMS series resistance is about 0.4 milliohms which is about 16 watts of generated heat at 200 amps. Check your firmware revision as they have made several changes, particularly on balancing operation.
@@garethgibbins8082Not all of them. Or at least they don't work. I just had one last less than 10 hours of use-time on an electric scooter. Model JK-BD4A17S-4P - I was using a 2A charger, and that side of it, along with balancing, seemed to be just fine, but operating the scooter on a 13s2p custom battery pack I built using Boston brand battery packs (all brand new and individually tested, as well as monitored during charging, no hot ones after my first 3 rides, using my FLIR camera) with the output set to 20A with a peak/surge limit of 25A. I was going to test the batteries gently and break in the hub motor, then adjust it to 25A/35A, but never got the chance. The few rides I got in, before the BMS fried itself, were on smooth pavement surfaces, mostly cruising, so not many spikes in draw, in dry, cool weather. (around 20-22C). I modified the battery compartment box on the scooter to have constant airflow/cooling for the BMS, along with the battery back and controller. Neither of those even broke 30-31C after use. The BMS though... 41C at one point when I checked it after a 3.6 mile nonstop ride on a smooth, level sidewalk. The next time, I had to ride on grass partially due to road construction, and it didn't like that. Made it less than 20 seconds before it let the magic smoke out. With that oh so familiar ozone smell we tinkerers all know and dread. Technically still within the supposed acceptable parameters, but... While it was working, it seemed great, but then the Bluetooth password suddenly stopped working (which is very common, according to lots of messages on tech boards and reddit), so I couldn't even go in and change settings anymore... Before I even started riding the scooter. (I had set that up and then found I needed more parts, so it sat and waited for those to arrive from China. By the time. I got those and finished the build... I'm just glad I had set up the test limits ahead of time. I had accepted that I would be running below full power until I bought a new BMS, but it didn't even make it that far, due to the unexpected failure. The voltage indicator on my scooter was showing 48.3v when it died. Last thing it showed, so I remember it clearly without checking my notes, haha. I can't speak for the larger models, but I would not recommend the small one I bought. (It had good specs on paper, but... failed to meet those specs, sadly. Now I'm stuck with riding on my leather personnel carriers.
Most of our community here in Ireland are using jk with over 3 years, no issues, very good bms
The bad thing is they have only 1 year warranty. That is a warning they probably don't use high quality components.
Thank you for recognizing jkbms. I am an agent of this company. If you need other products from jk, you can contact me at any time.
Send me one to Tijuana , user 😂😂@@RaymondLee-j5c
I'm installing 5 ea JK 16S 200A with 4.3" display. I've used 7 brands. This is #1!!
great video. looking forward to the more indepth video on the JK
Hi Roger what are your thoughts on JK vs Daly one year on?
Hello, do you have a video tutorial on how to connect a 3-part relay to a Jkbms 25S 1000A
I am in the states and enjoy your videos, thank you, I do have question what is best to reach you?
Fairly sure both units have their own internal temp sensor mounted on or near the MOSFET string to shut the BMS down if it gets too hot from drawing too much current. It would be suicide not to include MOSFET temp shutdown.
200A continuous is questionable especially if you mount it inside your battery housing case where it doesn't get much air flow to help cooling. BMS series resistance is about 0.4 milliohms which is about 16 watts of generated heat at 200 amps.
Check your firmware revision as they have made several changes, particularly on balancing operation.
the JK definetely does. three sensors in total.
@@garethgibbins8082Not all of them. Or at least they don't work. I just had one last less than 10 hours of use-time on an electric scooter. Model JK-BD4A17S-4P - I was using a 2A charger, and that side of it, along with balancing, seemed to be just fine, but operating the scooter on a 13s2p custom battery pack I built using Boston brand battery packs (all brand new and individually tested, as well as monitored during charging, no hot ones after my first 3 rides, using my FLIR camera) with the output set to 20A with a peak/surge limit of 25A. I was going to test the batteries gently and break in the hub motor, then adjust it to 25A/35A, but never got the chance. The few rides I got in, before the BMS fried itself, were on smooth pavement surfaces, mostly cruising, so not many spikes in draw, in dry, cool weather. (around 20-22C). I modified the battery compartment box on the scooter to have constant airflow/cooling for the BMS, along with the battery back and controller. Neither of those even broke 30-31C after use. The BMS though... 41C at one point when I checked it after a 3.6 mile nonstop ride on a smooth, level sidewalk.
The next time, I had to ride on grass partially due to road construction, and it didn't like that. Made it less than 20 seconds before it let the magic smoke out. With that oh so familiar ozone smell we tinkerers all know and dread.
Technically still within the supposed acceptable parameters, but...
While it was working, it seemed great, but then the Bluetooth password suddenly stopped working (which is very common, according to lots of messages on tech boards and reddit), so I couldn't even go in and change settings anymore... Before I even started riding the scooter. (I had set that up and then found I needed more parts, so it sat and waited for those to arrive from China. By the time. I got those and finished the build... I'm just glad I had set up the test limits ahead of time. I had accepted that I would be running below full power until I bought a new BMS, but it didn't even make it that far, due to the unexpected failure. The voltage indicator on my scooter was showing 48.3v when it died. Last thing it showed, so I remember it clearly without checking my notes, haha.
I can't speak for the larger models, but I would not recommend the small one I bought. (It had good specs on paper, but... failed to meet those specs, sadly. Now I'm stuck with riding on my leather personnel carriers.
Are there Germany, USA or Japan made BMS in the market?
not affordable for most diy'ers
Victron is from the Netherlands, or not? They have bms in their product range.
Super, Merci.
I always thought the Daly was the way to go as it looks nice and chuncky but all the forums are saying its trash and the JK is the way to go
Daly has an balancing current of 30 mAh +-5 😂 gonna buy an JK !
Had to retire a Daly 300amp smart(dumb) bms. Jk all the way! Don’t need the Neey active balancer either. The Jk has an active balancer built in.
The JKs are very good!
HOW about connecting them UP and TESTING??????
if one cable stope working the other one will take all the power ( fire)
Nobody use Daly bms in our community.... All jk
DALY for the WIN!
LOL not really. Daly suck! It is one of the lousiest BMS out there.