today was the day i tackled my timing belt on evoke 2013 2.2 /.Just want to say fantastic video,followed you step by step,all complete .Took 7 hours but saved me a ton of money .garage was charging £95 per hour plus parts ,Top man .the tensioner looked so complicated until you showed how to turn the it until in the middle to get precise tension .
Great video, i’ve done two v6 freelanders without locking tools but never had the chance to do it on this engine. Really well explained and carried out!!
Thanks buddy, that's really helpful 🙂 Buying a 2015 Discovery Sport next week with the same engine which is due a massive service, including the timing belt, so cheers!
extremely helpful video, thank you. I watched the video a couple of times to gain confidence of doing my 2012 Peugeot 508SW 2.2HDi which has the same engine as the Evoque. Here is my feedback: 1. don't get too fuzzy about the loose keyway of the timing gear. I checked the original reluctor disc which has the gear mark on it. It shows when it was fitted at the factory, the key was aligned fully CCW against the gear key slot as when the nut was tighten , the gear was driven CW. The keyway slot on the reluctor is tight and it has no play. 2. The original tensioning wheel pointer is well below the pointer marker so I set the new one to the lower rather than higher side of the tension marker. I also checked the belt tension with a generic gauge, they (old and new) are both higher than the recommended tension value by the gauge instructions. The removed belt has done 140,000 kms and 10 years, still in perfect conditions. I guess this design is to make the tensioner and idler in such way that the belt span is very short and simple, slightly lower tension may make it more durable. 3. locking the flywheel can be done without removing the starter, the hole is 1-2 inch below the starter but sometimes it's hard to be seen. I only found out this after finishing the job. You need to try looking from below and sideway or using your hand to search it. Without locking the flywheel, you can't torque the crank nut but just use a impact driver to tighten it. 4. For Peugeot 508, you need to remove the engine mount to get access to the idler. The space there seems to be tighter than the Land Rover.
Good point John, this engine might be in lots of different vehicles, but of course the space around them will differ according to each application. Thanks for the tip about locking the flywheel, I'll be sure to look for that when I do mine.
@@youtubehobbyists Will do! I was shocked to see how much JLR wanted to fit the kit (I used this as 'leverage' to get a lower price) the independent wanted 830GBP which is okay, but jeeeezus, JLR wanted a staggering 2370GBP.... (I know I'm in Norway but crikey!). Just ordered the Bosch kit for about a hundred and thirty quid... It will be a profitable mornings work, since the seller dropped the 830 for me :-)
@@handycrowd I was thinking it would be a difficult job before starting. The independent shop here (Australia) wanted over A$2000. I got free time so attempted myself and saved. It's not difficult with the aid of this video. I also took time, marked the old belt, upper and lower gears, recorded the old belt tension pointer position, measured the tension. I then transferred the marking to the new belt. The coolant ran out of the pump removal is about 3 liters, I saved it as it's new. You need to bleed the coolant from the nozzle near the air filter. Don't rush the engine until all the coolant is in as the pump seal may be running dry.
Great video, perhaps case with crank sprocket... it not always align in center, sometimes sprocket moves to the right when tension the belt. From experience nothing will happen . DW10 or DW12 will be just fine. But as you mentioned with locking flywheel, its wise to do that when you do it first time and if you have no impact gun :) but defo it is easier without taking engine mount off and support engine , they could re design coolant drain sow we won't make as much mess :) all best :)
Absolute good video. However, it is always better to lock the crankshaftl You can mark as many as you like, if you torck the crankshaft bolt there is always a risc that the crankshaft is moving just a little bit. So not 100% accurate. There are 2 torck settings in the manual. 1 give 70nm whit a used bolt. The second say 70nm+ 82°whit a New bolt. Jaguar/ land rover mecanics prefer the 2e methode.
Just watched for a second time :-) And thinking about that bottom pulley moving when torquing it up... I can't see as it matters. I mean, the critical one is the lower timing gear and that is already located and tensioned up, so if the engine turns a little whilst torquing up the nut, it doesn't matter surely? (assuming also that the upper timing pin is also out by this stage) I'm thinking that I could use the old accessory belt and mole grips trick to hold the bottom pully in place whilst torquing up the pully nut... Anyone see a gaping hole in that plan? 🙂
What do you think of the 2.2 diesel engine overall? Would you say looked after they are OK to buy second hand? Will a looked after engine last 200,000 miles? Too expensive for fuel? 30mpg?
Good engine overall, not complicated, with a belt. Been around for years and have proven itself, just look after them and it will last.Mpg? It is a 2.2, so not a small engine and depends how heavy the car it’s put in.
today was the day i tackled my timing belt on evoke 2013 2.2 /.Just want to say fantastic video,followed you step by step,all complete .Took 7 hours but saved me a ton of money .garage was charging £95 per hour plus parts ,Top man .the tensioner looked so complicated until you showed how to turn the it until in the middle to get precise tension .
Great…!
Nice to see you do it without removing the starter motor .. Literally makes the job twice a quick .. 😊👍
Great video, i’ve done two v6 freelanders without locking tools but never had the chance to do it on this engine. Really well explained and carried out!!
Thanks..!
Thanks buddy, that's really helpful 🙂
Buying a 2015 Discovery Sport next week with the same engine which is due a massive service, including the timing belt, so cheers!
extremely helpful video, thank you. I watched the video a couple of times to gain confidence of doing my 2012 Peugeot 508SW 2.2HDi which has the same engine as the Evoque. Here is my feedback:
1. don't get too fuzzy about the loose keyway of the timing gear. I checked the original reluctor disc which has the gear mark on it. It shows when it was fitted at the factory, the key was aligned fully CCW against the gear key slot as when the nut was tighten , the gear was driven CW. The keyway slot on the reluctor is tight and it has no play.
2. The original tensioning wheel pointer is well below the pointer marker so I set the new one to the lower rather than higher side of the tension marker. I also checked the belt tension with a generic gauge, they (old and new) are both higher than the recommended tension value by the gauge instructions. The removed belt has done 140,000 kms and 10 years, still in perfect conditions. I guess this design is to make the tensioner and idler in such way that the belt span is very short and simple, slightly lower tension may make it more durable.
3. locking the flywheel can be done without removing the starter, the hole is 1-2 inch below the starter but sometimes it's hard to be seen. I only found out this after finishing the job. You need to try looking from below and sideway or using your hand to search it. Without locking the flywheel, you can't torque the crank nut but just use a impact driver to tighten it.
4. For Peugeot 508, you need to remove the engine mount to get access to the idler. The space there seems to be tighter than the Land Rover.
Thanks for the comments 👍
Good point John, this engine might be in lots of different vehicles, but of course the space around them will differ according to each application. Thanks for the tip about locking the flywheel, I'll be sure to look for that when I do mine.
@@handycrowd Very good engine indeed, enjoy servicing it!
@@youtubehobbyists Will do!
I was shocked to see how much JLR wanted to fit the kit (I used this as 'leverage' to get a lower price) the independent wanted 830GBP which is okay, but jeeeezus, JLR wanted a staggering 2370GBP.... (I know I'm in Norway but crikey!).
Just ordered the Bosch kit for about a hundred and thirty quid... It will be a profitable mornings work, since the seller dropped the 830 for me :-)
@@handycrowd I was thinking it would be a difficult job before starting. The independent shop here (Australia) wanted over A$2000. I got free time so attempted myself and saved. It's not difficult with the aid of this video. I also took time, marked the old belt, upper and lower gears, recorded the old belt tension pointer position, measured the tension. I then transferred the marking to the new belt.
The coolant ran out of the pump removal is about 3 liters, I saved it as it's new. You need to bleed the coolant from the nozzle near the air filter. Don't rush the engine until all the coolant is in as the pump seal may be running dry.
Great video, perhaps case with crank sprocket... it not always align in center, sometimes sprocket moves to the right when tension the belt. From experience nothing will happen . DW10 or DW12 will be just fine. But as you mentioned with locking flywheel, its wise to do that when you do it first time and if you have no impact gun :) but defo it is easier without taking engine mount off and support engine , they could re design coolant drain sow we won't make as much mess :) all best :)
Thanks for the great comments.
Great vid bud!!
Absolute good video. However, it is always better to lock the crankshaftl You can mark as many as you like, if you torck the crankshaft bolt there is always a risc that the crankshaft is moving just a little bit. So not 100% accurate. There are 2 torck settings in the manual. 1 give 70nm whit a used bolt. The second say 70nm+ 82°whit a New bolt. Jaguar/ land rover mecanics prefer the 2e methode.
Just watched for a second time :-)
And thinking about that bottom pulley moving when torquing it up... I can't see as it matters.
I mean, the critical one is the lower timing gear and that is already located and tensioned up, so if the engine turns a little whilst torquing up the nut, it doesn't matter surely? (assuming also that the upper timing pin is also out by this stage)
I'm thinking that I could use the old accessory belt and mole grips trick to hold the bottom pully in place whilst torquing up the pully nut... Anyone see a gaping hole in that plan? 🙂
There is also a drainplug on the waterpomp!
Only if you’re lucky
If you break it you need to replace it!
What do you think of the 2.2 diesel engine overall? Would you say looked after they are OK to buy second hand? Will a looked after engine last 200,000 miles? Too expensive for fuel? 30mpg?
Good engine overall, not complicated, with a belt. Been around for years and have proven itself, just look after them and it will last.Mpg? It is a 2.2, so not a small engine and depends how heavy the car it’s put in.
i have one in a peugeot 4007, its fantastic but not very economical maybe because it has a twin clutch auto
The best for 2023 Pro Enjoy life
Thanks, you too.
Brilliant video, Thanks very much
What is the change interval please?
land rover say 145000 miles or 9 years, same engine in a Peugeot 112000 miles or 10 years.
@@Roverturbothankyou very much
I’d do it at 100k or 10 years if it was me.
@@Roverturbo thankyou
Is that timing belt or timing chain engine?
The heading of the video is literally “cambelt” and water pump change. 👍
Is has small chain that connects the two camshaft
Most do.
@@Roverturbo do you know the service interval for timing belt
@alisakkar823 can’t remember without looking it up. Didn’t I mention in the video? Also I think it also differs which car the engine is in.
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