SKODA FABIA Intermittent Central Locking, Windows Faults (A and B Pillar Checks)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you How to check for intermittent central locking and ewlectric window faults at the A and B pillar gator connections on a Skoda Fabia 1.9 PD MK1 (99-07) which is similar to other VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda models
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The best source of service for mk1 ever
Dear Harvey, thank you for this great video. At my Fabia there always was a defect micro switch in the lock unit the reason of the failure. My garage exchanged the whole unit because I have a lifetime insurance. Best greatings, Mathias from Gütersloh, Germany
Great, have a look at my video on this: th-cam.com/video/Wb3B9_nNn6c/w-d-xo.html :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey many thanks for the great advice much appreciated, D
Thank you, I found two wires that were disconnected. Used some shrinkable tubing and now it’s working.
Excellent investigation and repair :-)
Dude, your videos gives me Motivation and is Helping me doing on my Fabia, thank you ^^
That's awesome! thanks :-)
Great video very common issues on the fabia……
Merci pour la vidéo
De rien, j'espère que ça a été utile :-)
Just what i was looking for... Unfortunately bought a new controller didnt check the wirings... Didnt know there was contacts behind the rubber seal...
Thanks for showing 👍
Hmmm with a new controller and checked the wiring in A pillar didnt solve my problem... Passager side switch works, thought... Any ideas where to check ? Is there a relay or something inside the door panel on driver side that is connect to the window-opening mechanisms, that might be the issue.. ???
Excellent video....looked all over the net and this is the only video that details the process so, many thanks for posting it.
My issue is with a passenger side door loom on a Skoda Yeti....the recent sub-zero cold snap lead to the electrics on that side playing up ...windows wouldn't come down, electric mirror wouldn't adjust and the doors (front and rear) wouldn't lock - seemed to right itself with the help of multiple opening/closing/locking - but now in a bit of a pickle as the doors are permanantly locked! - no amount of fiddling with the fob / centre console release / central locking fuse etc makes any difference - doors are locked shut - so i cant actually get at the loom and im now stuck in limbo! .....any suggestions would be very gratefully recieved.
Seasons Greetings 🎅
That's a bummer. 1- Have you tried the key in the door lock manually? 2- Repeatedly bang the door panel by the A pillar whilst actuating the door release. 3- dry out thoroughly with with dehumidifier. 4- Take the panel off if you can then carrier and fiddle with wires actuating the release. 5- drill hole in door lock where release lever is. Can be a difficult job. Once open replace wiring look and drivers door lock.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks mate...will get stuck into it in the new year! Happy 2024 to you
Hi Harvey ,can you please make a video with central lock system wire ,where is the micro swich ?
My central lock is closing ,and open without any reason ,when I drive the car . Thanks ,and have a nice day !
I have a few videos about this and the micro switch in the door lock. First you need to make sure your battery is good, both car and key fob then check cleaned negative lead and body ground to car then check the wires going into the drivers door first then others all at the point of the pillar behind the bellows - look for wire chatting and breaks also check connections to A pillar body - disconnect/spray contact cleaner/reconnect. If still not working only then consider the door lock, which means the inner panel needs to come off to take the lock off. Replace the lock or just the catch microswitch. :-)
Hi, I cured my non-operational passenger window by tracing the fault to a broken wire in the front gater thanks.
New fault, the tail gate won’t unlock with the key. BUT, if the rear door is then opened the tailgate will unlock. Any ideas?
Needs a new drivers door micro-switch. I would take off the door panel - change rivets for bolts - check and make good all connections within door and replace the door lock. Also check the micro-switch/connections in the actual boot hatch handle and catch :-)
Hi I watched your video on this and thanks managed to fix my central locking from inside the car ie the button on the driver's side.
Was just wondering do you have any advise or a video on how to sync my fob key to the car after a new battery has been fitted.
Have not long had my Skoda fabia and the fob was not working and only one key as well am a little stuck how to sync the fob to the car any help well be appreciated thanks 👍
just press the lock/unlock button then open the door with the key within 1 minute.
@@HatBoyHarvey
Many thanks for your reply will give it a go cheers Harvey 👍
Great video, as usual Harvey,
can you make one, on cleaning water drainage, under the hood, left and right, that often gets clogged?
Best regards!
Thanks, I'll put your suggestion on my list, although I did cover this in my scuttle panel video: th-cam.com/video/EI-4rWoVgoU/w-d-xo.html
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks, I will check that! I would also appreciate, if you could show us, how to change recirculation flap motor v68, it's a common problem on Fabia...
I have that problem, since yesterday, turned heating and ventilator, and after 15min turned to left, cold position, but it keeps blowing hot air!?! On forums, they say it's that v68 motor, or some temperature sensor, and to replace it, complete cockpit has to be disassembled...
I hope it's just jammed, and hopefully, it will return to normal state, otherwise, I have a problem!🤬
Best regards!
Unfortunately yes these do get problems and will need fixing, but sometimes you can free-up these by continuously moving it from cold to hot to cold varying the wait between. Better still if you can manually move the flap motor lever arm at the same time - do that till your bored an you may see a difference. I plan to do this video. :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks, will try that today! I was thinking of using some kind of cord/cable to physically reach and stimulate that problematic flap, through the vent, if that can help! All the best Harvey!
Thanks for the advice!
@HatBoyHarvey Today it's working properly! I left the temp. controller in a off position, and when a started the engine, gently turned it to heat and back, with pauses..
Yesterday, I forced it to max heat and vent speed, for continuous 20min after a month or two, not using heat at all, maybe that caused the jam... I didn't understand how to manually move flap motor lever, but I have that option in mind! Thanks again Harvey, sorry if I was too detailed about my issue!
Hello my friend, how are you
I have a problem with the central lock. It opens all the doors normally, but when it locks, only the driver's door locks, and after ten minutes, I can lock all the doors.
Same, did you fix it
Great video dude, just wondering if it's the same with Skoda superb. Thanks
I haven't had many faults yet on the superb windows, but the folding mirrors lost their folding ability when the battery went flat, just a simple reset. I guess the cables and connections going into the doors will be similar. If your's is having issues, then it's one of the first places to locate faults.
@@HatBoyHarveyTrue the mirrors' folding ability malfunctions usually , but I never knew it was because of the battery level. Yes, one of my superb windows has this issue, I will check the cables tomorrow, if not fixed I'll have to take it to a garage. Thanks again bro 🙏
I am having a problem with the driver side door microswtich. When i changed the passenger door microswitch i used one of an old printer that i dismantled and passed more than a year and still working. On the driver side i bought a new one and changed, it passed few months and already failing (when i close the driver door the central lock activates and closes the car). But after your video maybe it is better check for other possible causes. Thanks.
yes, maybe another fault somewhere other than the drivers lock as that should last years, not months unless it itself is faulty (unlikely). worth looking at the rear doors also. In my experience damp seems to affect the system overall.
Thank you.
Mr Hat Boy. If I ever meet you in real life, I'm going to buy you a pint!! :)
No problem, see link in description👌 Hope the video helped. I like your hat 🎩I have many metaphorical l hats :-)
Hello again Harvey,
I have a problem with doors, oposite of driver, when I remotely unlock, and open any door, the car auto locks itself after 30 sec, like it should, unless, the door/s are open!
I think it's bad contact due to corrosion or something else? That side has water leaking in the back door, sometimes...
Have you got any suggestion, where should I look first?
Best regards, and thanks a lot!
Make sure your car battery is in a Good state and the key fob battery also, if ok then suspect the drivers side door lock micro-switch. When faulty it gives the control module open message so auto-lock kicks in. Replace the door lock or micro-switch. You could disable auto-lock with vcds I think, but never done it :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks Harvey, both batteries are new, so it is, most likely, a micro switch... When I open any door on that side, light in the cabin doesn't turn on, and it should? I have no idea where is that micro switch located, in the handle or...?
I also presume you have looked at the wires behind the rubber bellows on the A puller and the connections there? The micro-switch is in the door lock which you will have to take off. Watch my video on how to do that. th-cam.com/video/cslUxQhyiwo/w-d-xo.html
Hi Bob! Yesterday I dismantled the conrctors and cleaned them well, as they contained oxidation. The problem is that after I assembled everything, the driver's window controls (the 4) don't work... The other buttons, whether on the passenger or the back seats, all work fine. What could it be? Should I have disconnected the battery earlier? Can be it? I've checked the fuses and also all the door wires, they're fine.
Which connector have you found oxidation? If it was the window switch connector and now it doesn't work (did you dry it out well, spray with contact cleaner?) then the switch is probably caput. If it worked well before then you may have affected it when cleaning the connector. I've taken these of/on with the power still on before without issue and is useful to test it. Wiggle the connector to see if it will work. If no joy then a new switch is likely needed ;-)
the black connector was oxidized. From what I can tell, it has speaker wires and a positive and negative wire. As my speakers weren't working, I decided to clean them with a scraper, I felt a short circuit between the positive and negative, however I tested it with the multimeter and there was 12v between the two. The fact is that the same thing happened to me after I had already assembled the driver's one when I went to clean the other side, could this have burned something? the fuses are good. My car has 4 electric windows, all 3 work from their respective buttons, they just don't work from the driver's buttons. The button lights work.
Still could still be the drivers switch as these ware over time, but I would check the connection and all other pillar connections and then trace the wire colours to/from the drivers switch and all four motors testing for continuity.
Good morning! Do you know if these wires go to the central or pass through the relay central? Thank you very much in advance for your help!@@HatBoyHarvey
I've never had to trace them, but most should go to the central locking module which is close by the central electrical module CEM under drivers side dash. Following a wiring diagram may help with the colours and which goes where. If I still had a garage I'd have it in and look at it, but I don't do that now, sorry. Hope you get to the bottom of it eventually :-)
hello sir i have a problem in my skoda fabia 1.4 year 2001 model the window is automatically down even the engine is off. also when i press lock button to lock all the door they go lock and then unlock, after that the window in front 2 doors is going down. thank you in advance if you reponse to my comment.
First check the key fob to eliminate if it is this battery or the button contact that maybe causing the malfunction. Then check the car battery has good charge and the ground on the post and body are clean and tight. Then check the wires going into the drivers door and the offending window door behind the rubber bellows on the A/B pillars. Then remove the door panel and check both connection and window switch functions. Ask yourself ' does it malfunction when the weather is damp? If so suspect bad connections somewhere, possibly central locking convenience module under drivers steering column and window control in drivers door. Use obd2 diagnostics to read fault codes to maybe highlight where the issue lay. Hope these help :-)
Hello,
Can you please help me with the problem I have?
At the beginning when I closed the driver's door the central lock would locked all the doors of the car by its self.Even that the car was unlock at first with the key at the engine. Now this problem added along with the previous. When I try to lock the car from inside with the lock button at driver's door it locks and unlocks by its self.Need to push the unlock button and then the lock button 2-3 times to get the doors locked.
I replaced the button panel on driver's side but the problem persists.
Have you got any solution to that?
My mechanic asks me for 100€ repair and I want to avoid it.
Thanks in advance
You have to go through methodically one thing at a time. Start with the key, change the battery, use the second key, buttons can become faulty on these, new PCB board available online, is this a moisture issue, damp weather? Wet foot wells? Electrical connection/wire issue - check all wires behind bellows on A and B pillars for chafing/breaks, starting priority drivers door. Unplug the connections then re-connect. Has the drivers door door lock ever been changed? If not consider changing it or change the micro-switch in it. This will involve taking the door panel off so so can check the connections to the control motor and the master switch which can become loose. This you say you changed, was the connection loose?
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks for your reply and the solutions you give.
I ll get back to you when I try them all and see what it worked for my car.
Fyi I don't have a fob key, only a simple one with immobilizer unit in it.
The windows & and doors panel didn't have any loose connection to the connector or any broken wires.
So today I changed the old car battery because it died. In past 3 months it was at 73% health and low charge at 37%,I have a battery tester at work so I took some measurements.The problem with the automatic locking started at the same period.
I made some tests with the locks with the new battery and the problem seems to be fixed.
Anyway I ll keep an eye on it if it appears again and I ll try the suggested solutions you said.
Thank you for your time and help.
My drivers doors also started to close all 4 when I shut them even when the car is still running, it happened to me today good thing it was infront of my house 😂
Hello my friend... Last two days don't working driver side door lock and window keys.... Out side door locking normal... But inside i can't open driver and passenger windows...
I checked all cables conditions but.....😢😢😢
First check all relevant fuses. Make sure car battery is good - 12.6V and fob bat good. Check car ground ok. Then have you disconnected then reconnected the wires on the A pillar? If you have also looked at the wires behind the rubber bellows ok, so now take the window switch out, check connection and test to see if there is power there. panel off and check, disconnect/connect cables/connections etc. Have you replaced the door lock from original? Has the issue been intermittent, if so worn micro-switch in lock or water ingress into panel. Hope my suggestions help and you find the fault :-)
Okay... Today after my work... i chek all...
Can i send you video??
@@MrMleri upload a video to your channel and put a link here
Thanks
Hi harvey, I tried this on my mk1 vrs and on my drivers side loom the bottom most set of cables two have completely split in half, and another has started fraying. Do i need to completely replace these or can mechanics solder this sort of thing?
Method 1: And the best method,; Would be replacing each wire in turn, but this isn't easy as you would need a connector removal tool, new connectors and you would also have to remove the inner door panel.
Method 2: So depending on the break you may be able to replace just a short length of wire, soldered in and shrink-wrapped if your a dab hand with a soldering iron. This method works, is relatively quick and easy, but can cause the wire to break adjacent to these joints later on as each soldered join would be stiff and lack the flexibility needed compared to the original one. The choice is yours..
A standard independent garage would probably choose the second method and a main dealer may choose to replace the whole loom from connector to connector. Method 3: purchase and replace the loom yourself :-)
thankyou for taking the time to reply, Ill have to work out which is gonna be best!@@HatBoyHarvey
@@JackMagic22 most choose the later as it is easier and when you know what happens and it happens in the future you can fix it again easy. I replaced the whole lot a long time ago, but I had access to a new one for nothing so I can't really say. Anyway, hope this helps and happy motoring :-)
Hi I have a problem which is different to this im a delivery driver and after delivering for 2 hours my driver side starting to squeak and plus my inner cv joint is hotter then the passenger side do you think this is the problem? I did change it 2 years ago the nuts did come loose and lost some grease in the 1st 2/3 weeks i tighten them up and never came loose again
Sounds like a bearing running dry, NEEDS LOOKING AT. This will become dangerous when a bearing fails it can be catastrophic, especially at high speed such as motorway driving etc :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I had a quick look today and the rotor was abit hard to turn but it start raining so i won't drive till I get a new bearing Thank you for your help
Just seen your video how to change the bearing its easy but bearing puller is too expensive when I know I will only use it once any other options? Money is really tight right now Thanks
@@RandomClips27. if you know someone with a bearing press you can take the whole hub off and use one of those, but these bearings are difficult to install on those presses if you don't have something good to support the hidden flange. The bearing must not under any circumstances be pushed in from the outer flange. Also if you remove and then take the hub and bearing to a local garage they often will do it for you for free or very cheaply, but depends on the garage. There are some own use DIY garages that have tools like these bearing pullers that you could make use of, or an auto tool hire company. Hope this helps :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks for letting me know but what happened is I went to take the brake caliper off to see if I can hear the bad wheel bearing but didn't have the 7 mm Allen key so just cleaned the caliper and hit it with a rubber hammer a few times to get the loose rust off and went on a delivery shift today and the noise is gone so must have been something else. I still will take it off and give everything a good clean on my day off
My fabia has a problem with central locking, I guess I have to check those too
Yes, worth a look :-)
Ты лучший
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Same fault here only no codes showing when obd reading
Intermittent faults are annoying, lone minute they show up then the next they are gone. First check battery and fob battery then A pillar wires then connections there, check door lock/ replace.
Any idea about cost of replacing egr valve on Fabia MK2
If we are looking at the common rail engine with the EGR at the back of the engine with the cooler, then prices vary in purchasing these and can be had for £110. If you are talking about doing the work then it is a 7 hour + job and garages will charge up-to and over a grand for doing these. Bummer yes, but is do-able yourself on a driveway if you are confident with a bit of experience. It is a basic unbolt and remove job, just hard to get at. I was going to film doing one, but in the end I didn't have the time to film it as it wasn't my car and they wanted it quick. I want to film this someday as it will help so many guys out. At some stage I will buy a mk2 Fabia to do just that, but for now that will have to wait. Hope you consider doing it yourself to save money, it is just time consuming and fiddly with difficult to reach bolts etc :-)
Ta harv
Welcome :-))
When I lock from a driver side, everything works, but from the passenger side, everything will lock except the drivers door, weird.
This happened to me recently, these exact wires were the problem
The best source of service for mk1 ever