An alternative to using a Diaphragm Valve if you do not have one, is using a small diameter hose, as a "straightener", to keep the beer from blasting through the Trub/Debris in the cone. In my 14 gallon Unitanks, I use 3/8", (or 1/2" inside diameter if You know there will be a lot of trub/matter) about 1 meter long. This acts just like the beer sampling coil - It slows the pour/dump and straightens it out, thus preventing a punch-through of precious beer. Obviously, this would not work on a massive Bbl conical. Nice videos Mate!
Absolutely loving the youtube videos. I’m not a pro brewer but I do like to glean a thing or two (fastidious sanitation) from them. You probably aren’t taking requests but I’d love to see a video where you taste a beer a few times during the ferment (days 4, 7, 10, 14 etc. if you even go that far). No one really talks about identifying when a beer is ready, especially when yeast is still in suspension. Should cold crash happen as soon as terminal is reached? Post vdk test?
Thanks for your videos! They have been very helpful. I am in the process of getting a quote from the same equipment company you used. Is the Cone Dumper 5000 the kombucha storage tank they list on their website?
Another very illustrative video. Thanks. Couple of questions: Why do you sanitize those exit points? aren't you just dumping that excess hope?, are you doing it so "bacteria" does not travel back up into the tank? --- Also, you are doing this dump to help cleaning the beer? what happens if you don't do it? wouldn't it just still fall down and get your beer clear above? or is the amount too much that its level is above that racking arm? thanks for any feedback!!
Level but also beer sitting on hops for longer than ideal extraction time (12-36 hours for depending on dryhop methods ) leads to a shift in what they’re contributing. We want the good oils mostly tropical/citrus/sweet fruit which typically a freed from the material on a relatively short period especially if you rouse or recirculate. Longer time leads to grassy and some unpleasant compounds being extracted and hops as he mentioned are a royal PITA when packaging and you want it clean as possible not counting having hops in package leads to more unpleasantness as noted. Quick is key so dumping is key.
Hi David Thanks for your question. We sanitize all exit point when pulling anything from the tank to kill any bacteria. It is essential to maintain a high level clean product. If you don’t dump the cone, the yeast start to stress which can create off flavours in the beer. Also you need to remove the hops from the finished beer, if they stay on too long the product will start to get astringent from the hops & Undesirable flavours like garlic and onion can be perceived. If you use a flat bottom fermenter at home, after the beer has finished fermentation and had a diacetyl rest you should cold crash and then send it to the keg as soon as possible to avoid sitting on the yeast and dry hop. Cheers! Keep brewing 🙌
Can you explain why you use the acetyl acid and the isopropyl alcohol and why you use each for each of those steps. As a homebrewer, I generally just use StarSan for sanitizing and and PBW for cleaning. Thanks!
Hi We use peracetic- acid which is acetic acid(vinegar) and hydrogen peroxide. It sanitises and kills bacteria. We use the isopropyl on afterwards as a back up. We allow it to evaporate off to kill off any bacteria or wild yeast. What we use is for the commercial setting. Cheers - keep brewing!
Homebrewer here. I have a unitank and everytime I try to dump the cone it's clogged up and won't budge. You reckon the diaphragm valve is the solution I'm missing?
In the video, you initially opened the butterfly valve with the diaphragm valve closed. The sight glass would have been full of air. when the sight glass filled with trub, didn't that air get pushed back into the beer? Why wouldn't you have the diaphragm open when you open the butterfly so the air gets pushed forward down the pipe? are you relying on the thickness of the trub to block or hold the air back form the beer?
@@lewishanger8932 We have noticed that some headphones are only picking up one side of audio. It's possible if your only wearing one earphone you may need to switch sides. We are looking into fixing this problem
![Home Brewer GOES PRO!! [Brewing Beer at a Brewery]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ai0R0ZmRTOM/mqdefault.jpg)
An alternative to using a Diaphragm Valve if you do not have one, is using a small diameter hose, as a "straightener", to keep the beer from blasting through the Trub/Debris in the cone. In my 14 gallon Unitanks, I use 3/8", (or 1/2" inside diameter if You know there will be a lot of trub/matter) about 1 meter long. This acts just like the beer sampling coil - It slows the pour/dump and straightens it out, thus preventing a punch-through of precious beer. Obviously, this would not work on a massive Bbl conical.
Nice videos Mate!
It does work on massive conicals. I use a 1.5" hose on 120 and 240 bbl fermenters
Are you talking about Jasper towards the end of this video? Used to love his content, think he had a brewery in Montana. Cheers!
Yes! Jaspers voice filled our house most nights in the early stages of our plan for a brewery.
Do I understand correctly that before carbonisation you keep a higher pressure in the tank than the one with which you will later achieve VV co2 .
This is my new favorite channel
This is our favourite new comment! thank you
Honestly the best vids ever. Unfortunately the team has not diminished my want for opening my own brewery
thank you. good luck if you decide to take the plunge!
Absolutely loving the youtube videos. I’m not a pro brewer but I do like to glean a thing or two (fastidious sanitation) from them. You probably aren’t taking requests but I’d love to see a video where you taste a beer a few times during the ferment (days 4, 7, 10, 14 etc. if you even go that far). No one really talks about identifying when a beer is ready, especially when yeast is still in suspension. Should cold crash happen as soon as terminal is reached? Post vdk test?
Thanks for the question. We will discuss this and get back to you during question time in a video coming up this very topic. Thanks for watching!
Audio works for me. Top video. Keep em coming. Racking arm wasn’t something I dump but now it’s in my process ❤
Thank you! We're happy to see you're learning and we are glad to help.
Wicked video man, would love to see another step by step brew day including ingredients 🍻
Coming soon!
Thanks for your videos! They have been very helpful. I am in the process of getting a quote from the same equipment company you used. Is the Cone Dumper 5000 the kombucha storage tank they list on their website?
Awesome
Love these videos! Can you show things like how you sanitize your hoses, like when sending wort from the BOil kettle to the FV etc
Yes. Full brew day coming soon!
Awesome video as always, I'd love to see your yeast setup
Plenty more to come!
Cheers guys for the awesome content!!
Certainly no where near a 1200L uni yet but can still use the info for sure!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a very informative vid. Keep them coming
Thanks, will do!
Gotta work on that clamp fu mate. Breaks my heart seeing you put one on and not doing a little flip.
Another very illustrative video. Thanks. Couple of questions: Why do you sanitize those exit points? aren't you just dumping that excess hope?, are you doing it so "bacteria" does not travel back up into the tank? --- Also, you are doing this dump to help cleaning the beer? what happens if you don't do it? wouldn't it just still fall down and get your beer clear above? or is the amount too much that its level is above that racking arm? thanks for any feedback!!
Level but also beer sitting on hops for longer than ideal extraction time (12-36 hours for depending on dryhop methods ) leads to a shift in what they’re contributing. We want the good oils mostly tropical/citrus/sweet fruit which typically a freed from the material on a relatively short period especially if you rouse or recirculate. Longer time leads to grassy and some unpleasant compounds being extracted and hops as he mentioned are a royal PITA when packaging and you want it clean as possible not counting having hops in package leads to more unpleasantness as noted. Quick is key so dumping is key.
Hi David
Thanks for your question.
We sanitize all exit point when pulling anything from the tank to kill any bacteria. It is essential to maintain a high level clean product.
If you don’t dump the cone, the yeast start to stress which can create
off flavours in the beer. Also you need to remove the hops from the finished beer, if they stay on too long the product will start to get astringent from the hops &
Undesirable flavours like garlic and onion can be perceived.
If you use a flat bottom fermenter at home, after the beer has finished fermentation and had a diacetyl rest you should cold crash and then send it to the keg as soon as possible to avoid sitting on the yeast and dry hop.
Cheers! Keep brewing 🙌
Check out yeast autolysis for more in depth info.
Can you explain why you use the acetyl acid and the isopropyl alcohol and why you use each for each of those steps. As a homebrewer, I generally just use StarSan for sanitizing and and PBW for cleaning. Thanks!
Hi
We use peracetic- acid which is acetic acid(vinegar) and hydrogen peroxide.
It sanitises and kills bacteria. We use the isopropyl on afterwards as a back up. We allow it to evaporate off to kill off any bacteria or wild yeast. What we use is for the commercial setting.
Cheers - keep brewing!
Hey mate, are you just running co2 through regular air compressor hose?
Hi, the hose is a food grade hose. Ours was from a company called Now Chem. A chemical supply company. It wasn't cheap either. Cheers
Hello, are you using any gas filters on your co2?
Homebrewer here. I have a unitank and everytime I try to dump the cone it's clogged up and won't budge. You reckon the diaphragm valve is the solution I'm missing?
Dump your cone hot before cold crashing. see how that goes.
I’d like to see how you dry hop in those tanks without introducing oxygen.
Coming soon!
In the video, you initially opened the butterfly valve with the diaphragm valve closed. The sight glass would have been full of air. when the sight glass filled with trub, didn't that air get pushed back into the beer? Why wouldn't you have the diaphragm open when you open the butterfly so the air gets pushed forward down the pipe? are you relying on the thickness of the trub to block or hold the air back form the beer?
I have the same question. I think you would need to put a T before it, but I am sure its fine since he does it. I am just curious as to why it works.
There appears to be no audio, is that on purpose
If you have opened the video on your phone it may be on mute 😁
I have no audio either, I hear the music in the intro :(
@@lewishanger8932 We have noticed that some headphones are only picking up one side of audio. It's possible if your only wearing one earphone you may need to switch sides. We are looking into fixing this problem
It's because the voice audio was only set to the left channel. When editting the video you need to duplicate the left channel over to the right.
@@AndrewLynch9 Ah thanks Andy. Seems my speakers are only working on the left channel.😆
please use mono audio, else very nice ;)
Thanks for the tip. We’ve fixed it for the next recording. Fingers crossed it’s going to work