🙈🙈ya have changed all filters,was on to hatz yesterday said it’s is most likely the pump, they said unfortunately these symptoms happen over time🙈haven’t got the pressure tested???is it a labour intensive job haven’t got a price on replacing it yet waiting to here back,thanks for the reply much appreciated,les
Hello I have an engine that has intermittent start.Sometimes when I put fuel in the lines it starts and runs .Then after shut down it does not want to start.Like it is not getting fuel.I replaced fuel lines and filter but the problem is still there
Sir I have a IB40T-2 it won’t start, I took out the injector and connect it to the line and crank the engine there isn’t spray on the injector. What could be the problem please.
So on the fuel pump there’s shims, we have two, reading about 0.8mm together. what is the purpose of these as ours is trying to start but doesn’t, and we have fuel pumping to the injector.
Hi, ive just replaced the fuel pump and it now revs uncontrollably. Is see the puter case of the fuel pump rotates part of the fuel pump to allow more fuel in. Could i have the fuel pump in 180 degrees wrong?
Hi have a hatz 1b20 engine on a cement mixer keeps cutting out on second load of mix every time and won’t start again for 30 mins, will run all day with no load,fully serviced no rattled bangs ect, been told it could b the pump,????any help b much appreciated
Fuel flow/Air flow either pump or filter. Idle don't need much fuel or air. Under load needs much more and sounds like it's not getting it. First start with new filter. Check Air filter also could be half plugged Lack of air will cause same problem. If them two are not the problem Check the pump pressure. Hope it's not the pump costly and big job. Not starting again till it cools back down yes. The lack of creates extra unwanted heat.
Hi, very glad to have found someone who knows these engines. I have a 1B-30 with an electrical problem, hope i can get some feedback - The motor is on a small 3kw Baldor Generator. (love the thing). It has electric start with the deluxe control panel/key start box. If I leave the battery connected, it drains the battery fairly quickly (like 4-6hrs) Also the little control panel only blinks the glow plug diode momentarily, but really none of the lights work. When running, the "running" light (happy face) also doesn't light. Do you think there can be some circuit open draining the battery? I tried to find diagrams of the control panel box, and on did seem to show perhaps a blade fuse inside, but not sure. With a charged battery it WILL start from the key. But the lights don't light and the key will not shut it back off. (have to use the stop lever). When running it shows normal charging voltage to the battery (approx 14.5v). But once shut down the battery drains and won't restart later. Any idea what could be causing this condition? I'm hoping that whatever is causing the control panel diodes not to light is also the source of the battery drain.... Thanks So much for reading, any feedback or thoughts i'd greatly appreciate 🙏 ~ (george)
Sure sounds like some sort of short. Perhaps test the battery before hand to make sure the battery it's self is not discharging from a shorted out plate inside. If you have no way to check to see if the battery is okay or not. Just disconnect the POS terminal and let it set for a few hours and see. If the battery voltage stays up then the problem is else where.
@MrDoingEverything THANKS for the reply. No, i've had a few different batteries in it at this point.. It was pretty much like this when i bought it second hand (only .4hrs on it) So maybe the first owner did short something out... it's kind of a complicated little unit. And hard to find anyone who knows anything about them I suppose as a fallback i could hook up a battery disconnect to keep it from draining.. But that still wouldn't fix the non-working Control panel, and it would be nice to have the glowplug working as well as the temp, oil pressure, etc - Thank You for getting back to me ~
@MrDoingEverything I think i know what it is... I believe i burnt the Voltage Regulator when i ran it w/o a battery... (if you blow the diodes in a v.regulator, the battery will drain backwards thru it). I have never replaced the v.regulator because it was Only available thru Hatz and was like $300- But now it's suddenly available aftermarket. And oddly, it's a made in China part and they specifically say it's got improved electrics and better cooling. So I bet Hatz had a problem with all the Voltage regulators (too fragile) and had a batch made up from China so folks could get them less expensively. Normally, there isn't a single part that you can get anywhere but from Hatz themselves in Germany (thru the US distributor) - Just commenting here in case anyone has the same problem. Thnx aging very much ~
@@georgehofgren6123 You can get the pump parts to very very cheap that way but it's been way to long for me to say where and which one is the right one. But i measured mine all up and looked on line at pump plungers and found the same one and change my pump plunger for i think it was around $20 or less fit right in and was new again. Compares to the price Hatz wanted around i think $300 to $500
The side cover needs to be removed to be able to get in side. So what ever is ran on the shaft needs to all be removed also. A pretty big job to do but that matters to what the motor is on.
Very simpel. Ja genau, das ist ja sehr simpel wenn ich dafür erst den kompletten Motor zerlegen muss und man nichtmal von außen rankommt. Ist doch die letzte Dreckskonstruktion.
Thank you for your time and information much appreciated,les🎄🎄🎄
🙈🙈ya have changed all filters,was on to hatz yesterday said it’s is most likely the pump, they said unfortunately these symptoms happen over time🙈haven’t got the pressure tested???is it a labour intensive job haven’t got a price on replacing it yet waiting to here back,thanks for the reply much appreciated,les
It is labour intensive. Not hard just lots needs to come apart to get to it. Not cheap either.
Hello I have an engine that has intermittent start.Sometimes when I put fuel in the lines it starts and runs .Then after shut down it does not want to start.Like it is not getting fuel.I replaced fuel lines and filter but the problem is still there
Help, I have a 1B30, do those engines have a decompression valve?
Sir I have a IB40T-2 it won’t start, I took out the injector and connect it to the line and crank the engine there isn’t spray on the injector. What could be the problem please.
The fuel pump if the injector is good. One or the other.
So on the fuel pump there’s shims, we have two, reading about 0.8mm together. what is the purpose of these as ours is trying to start but doesn’t, and we have fuel pumping to the injector.
fuel pressure and it matters.
Hi, ive just replaced the fuel pump and it now revs uncontrollably. Is see the puter case of the fuel pump rotates part of the fuel pump to allow more fuel in. Could i have the fuel pump in 180 degrees wrong?
Yes something is not lined up right.
Hi have a hatz 1b20 engine on a cement mixer keeps cutting out on second load of mix every time and won’t start again for 30 mins, will run all day with no load,fully serviced no rattled bangs ect, been told it could b the pump,????any help b much appreciated
Fuel flow/Air flow either pump or filter. Idle don't need much fuel or air. Under load needs much more and sounds like it's not getting it. First start with new filter. Check Air filter also could be half plugged Lack of air will cause same problem. If them two are not the problem Check the pump pressure. Hope it's not the pump costly and big job. Not starting again till it cools back down yes. The lack of creates extra unwanted heat.
Hi, very glad to have found someone who knows these engines. I have a 1B-30 with an electrical problem, hope i can get some feedback -
The motor is on a small 3kw Baldor Generator. (love the thing). It has electric start with the deluxe control panel/key start box.
If I leave the battery connected, it drains the battery fairly quickly (like 4-6hrs)
Also the little control panel only blinks the glow plug diode momentarily, but really none of the lights work. When running, the "running" light (happy face) also doesn't light.
Do you think there can be some circuit open draining the battery?
I tried to find diagrams of the control panel box, and on did seem to show perhaps a blade fuse inside, but not sure.
With a charged battery it WILL start from the key. But the lights don't light and the key will not shut it back off. (have to use the stop lever). When running it shows normal charging voltage to the battery (approx 14.5v).
But once shut down the battery drains and won't restart later.
Any idea what could be causing this condition?
I'm hoping that whatever is causing the control panel diodes not to light is also the source of the battery drain....
Thanks So much for reading, any feedback or thoughts i'd greatly appreciate 🙏 ~ (george)
Sure sounds like some sort of short. Perhaps test the battery before hand to make sure the battery it's self is not discharging from a shorted out plate inside. If you have no way to check to see if the battery is okay or not. Just disconnect the POS terminal and let it set for a few hours and see. If the battery voltage stays up then the problem is else where.
@MrDoingEverything THANKS for the reply. No, i've had a few different batteries in it at this point.. It was pretty much like this when i bought it second hand (only .4hrs on it)
So maybe the first owner did short something out... it's kind of a complicated little unit. And hard to find anyone who knows anything about them
I suppose as a fallback i could hook up a battery disconnect to keep it from draining..
But that still wouldn't fix the non-working Control panel, and it would be nice to have the glowplug working as well as the temp, oil pressure, etc -
Thank You for getting back to me ~
@@georgehofgren6123 Sadly no easy answer. Just need to take the steps to find the cause.
@MrDoingEverything I think i know what it is... I believe i burnt the Voltage Regulator when i ran it w/o a battery... (if you blow the diodes in a v.regulator, the battery will drain backwards thru it).
I have never replaced the v.regulator because it was Only available thru Hatz and was like $300-
But now it's suddenly available aftermarket. And oddly, it's a made in China part and they specifically say it's got improved electrics and better cooling. So I bet Hatz had a problem with all the Voltage regulators (too fragile) and had a batch made up from China so folks could get them less expensively.
Normally, there isn't a single part that you can get anywhere but from Hatz themselves in Germany (thru the US distributor) -
Just commenting here in case anyone has the same problem.
Thnx aging very much ~
@@georgehofgren6123 You can get the pump parts to very very cheap that way but it's been way to long for me to say where and which one is the right one. But i measured mine all up and looked on line at pump plungers and found the same one and change my pump plunger for i think it was around $20 or less fit right in and was new again. Compares to the price Hatz wanted around i think $300 to $500
Do u have a video where you actually remove the injector?
Sorry no.
It doesn’t tell you how to remove the crank case to get inside
The side cover needs to be removed to be able to get in side. So what ever is ran on the shaft needs to all be removed also. A pretty big job to do but that matters to what the motor is on.
electric seems so much simpler.
And so much more boring. Long live the Diesel engine!
@@sjair6526 I have enough to do I love boring.
Very simpel. Ja genau, das ist ja sehr simpel wenn ich dafür erst den kompletten Motor zerlegen muss und man nichtmal von außen rankommt. Ist doch die letzte Dreckskonstruktion.