Hi mate...how would you go about replacing whole rooms with one end of board butted to solid wall, and a other end runs under stud? Would u cut it flush with wall and noggins in for the joint? A struggle I'm having
Hiya buddy. If it were me I would start where the stud wall is and try and slip the boards under it if possible. However, this can be easier said than done because there could be numerous nails under there securing the stud wall to the joists and you don't want to mess with these. You also need to make sure you clean / vacuum everywhere thoroughly to make sure boards sit as flat as possible. Then work towards the solid wall. As you say, use noggins (?double them up) where the boards meet between the joists and you're good to go. So basically, you're pretty much on point with it already mate. Best wishes, Des
Thanks, but the boards I have are interlocking MDF - Toungue and Groove - I assume I have to destroy pretty much every board to lift the floor up. Looks like this boarding was only designed to be put down.
Hi there. With the T&G you would have to use something like a circular saw or jig saw to cut through the tongue to get them up. Caution - if you decide to use a jigsaw you NEED to be absolutely sure you won;t be cutting into any wires or pipework which can be very doifficult to predict. Best bet is a circular saw with blade depth set to thickness of boards, cut through the groove and hopefully lift them from there once you've dealt with the fixings. Godd luck, Des
What about soaking the chipboard with water and waiting a day or two..repeat if needed until its swollen..then use a hammer to knock random holes into it..and then proceed to pull it apart...its much easier when its softened and swollen..also virtually no dust.
I've got to repair my bedroom chipboard sheets. I'll be using a small hole saw, drill around the nails, then lift. I'll screw down when they go back, or replaced.
It was standard practice to nail weyroc /caberfloor down with annular wire rung nails on site by contractors I can just imagine them pilot drilling and screwing that many screws in each day, so not Gits, I screw them back down when doing remedial work or replacing them.
Thanks, very interesting ! but it would be great if you tell us where did you buy the drill bit ? it looks like your holesaw drill bit doesn't have any pilot in the center... which is uncommon.
Hello there and, of course, more than happy to share. I originally used a circular saw bit purchased in a set from Lidl but it was cr@p so I purchased a couple of these and they were excellent: www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-25mm/44422 The 'chuck' which held the saw bit was from the aforementioned Lidl kit. I did actually remove the pilot from the centre as this would have hit the nails I was trying to remove and quite apart from being potentially dangerous was unnecessary anyway. Hope this helps my friend. ATB, Des
There is scothia mdf beading tacked to the skirting board all over my flat , theres to many tacks im finding it hard to rip beading off do u have any tips ??
Hi there. Where is it tacked to the skirts? On the top or bottom? Sounds like you will need to try and lever it up somehow or split the moulding down the middle (for example by using a hammer and chisel) and remove the bits separately and then the tacks. Let me know how you get on. Best wishes, Des
This is the worst way I’ve watched lifting floorboards, get a circular saw, adjust the depth, lift up with a nail bar, if you work out the joists underneath the board you can run the saw down the middle of the joists so you can still screw the board back in after.
Disagree entirely. Using a circular saw is definitely the best method for normal wooden floorboards and that would also be my preferred option. However, as the video clearly demonstrates, these are not floorboards but large sheets of chipboard which will simply disintegrate and bits will break off if you try and lift them using a nail / pry bar. You'd be lucky to have anything worthwhile screwing back. ATB, Des
21st Century Caveman as someone who has also had to lift chipboard flooring, this is a good method. The only other option is to hammer the nail through the board using a punch.
Why not just use a strong straight router bit on a portable router and either run it around the nail so then its easier to access or around the room and start to pull the boards off using a pull bar
If the board is say 18mm thick, take your skill saw and set depth to say 10mm, run the saw gently around the joints, then jimmy it up, it should only take a few minutes, this method in the video is all wrong, too much time wasted, too risky cutting into floor too deeply, make it easy on yourself, skill saw and some patience, works a treat every time.
The effort that went into this must have been considerable, and it's not over yet. Lucky also that the sheets weren't glued to the joists, and only nailed around the edges. Would it have been more cost effective to demolish the old chipboard and put down new stuff?
Hello there and thanks for your comments. In a situation like this you do indeed have to consider the trade off between how best to lift the boards, the time expended and whether or not it would be more efficient and cost effective to simply rip up the old boards and replace with new ones. This will depend upon a number of factors including the cost, time expended and whether you're doing it on your own or have someone to help you. I did initially consider simply ripping the old ones up and replacing but decided against it in favour of re-using them. It will, of course, depend on the circumstances. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Hello Des, What brought me to your video in the first place was that I'm considering pulling up a t&g chipboard subfloor in one room that i put down only a year ago as part of a DIY renovation. Before i finally put down a solid timber overlay I want to sister the joists to stiffen the floor a little more. It was the first room i did and i can feel the difference compared to later rooms that got sistered joists primarily to level them. The sheets were all screwed down so that isn't a problem and although the manufacturer specifies applying structural adhesive along all the joists and joins, as it's my own home and the floor would never be exposed to the weather i chose to run an acoustical tape system (called Green Glue) as a less permanent reversible option. So i have a completely different scenario to you. By the way, how did you fill your holes eventually? I would probably have tried dowels glued in.
Hello there and thanks for your further feedback. Comments from people like yourself are always welcomed as they are constructive and help to better inform others of the range of scenarios and the possible solutions. Thank you. BTW, I filled them in using sawdust mixed with PVA glue and it worked a treat. No need to cut or fashion dowels - just mix the stuff up and wang it in the holes. Easy peasy. Link below: th-cam.com/video/r-TfCeyqBds/w-d-xo.html
Sawdust and PVA would work. PVA is one of those thousand uses materials. I used the same combination to fill a hole in an architrave after relocating a light switch. It sets like concrete and difficult to sand. I'm also finding it shrinks over time creating a slight depression that i then need to keep filling every couple of days (with wood filler). So probably not the best solution in a highly visible location. Eventually it will stop but it's been a week now and still shrinking.
Hiya buddy. I agree that sawdust / PVA combo does shrink a bit and may need filling. Time was on my side and it's worked out great to be honest. With something like an architrave I would simply use wood filler or fine plaster - piece of cake - easy to fill, shape (wet flexible blade) and sand with fine paper. Best wishes, Des
You got x ray vision to see any electrical or pipework underneath the floors , i nearly choked on my roll an tattie scone when you that drill bit out, seriously this is horrific
The nails must logically be secured into timber joists or noggins. That being the case, then there obviously won't be any cables or pipework beneath them. Basic common sense mate. If there were, then there would be signs of water damage, electrics shorting or no nails or screws at all which will leave the floorboards squeaking and loose. The latter is the most obvious sign of cables or pipework which would warrant prior investigation. Try a Greggs vegan sausage roll next time matey, they slide down easier than a tattie scone. Have a great day, Des
Wouldn't you have been better off running a skill-saw down the chipboard joints and then removing the sheet/s with a crowbar? The boards should pull up easily once you've removed one of them. These tongue and grooved boards are generally a pain to get up, but I wouldn't suggest burning out your whole-saw bits like that! And if you'd like to remove the nails, you could always use a handybar/hammer to pull them out.
Hi there. Respectfully disagree on all counts for the following reasons: 'Wouldn't you have been better off running a skill-saw down the chipboard joints?' No because the chipboard joints sit on top of the joists and you can't therefore run a saw down them 'removing the sheet/s with a crowbar?' No chance. The chipboard would simply break away where you try to lever it up 'These tongue and grooved boards' They are not T&G boards. These sheets butt up against one another ' if you'd like to remove the nails, you could always use a handybar/hammer to pull them out.' Good luck with that! You've got to get to the nail heads first to be able to lever them up 'I wouldn't suggest burning out your whole-saw bits like that!' That's what they're made for - making holes! ATB, Des
Thanks for the reply! I didn't realize the boards weren't tongue and grooved, should have paid more attention there. I suppose it's always going to be a case of whether you want to try saving the boards (and peppering them with holes, and taking the time to do so as well as making good of the holes) or simply ripping them up and replacing them with new boards. Whether the labour cost is going to end up being more than what it would be to simply pick up a few sheets from your local timber yard and replacing them quickly. I've got myself a decent handybar which does a great job of digging out those nails. It's just as quick, if not quicker then burning out whole saw bits... whether or not if that's what they're designed to do! I recently had to go in and repair an upstairs floor which had been severely damaged due to their water-tank bursting. The boards were only 18mm and tongue'n'grooved. I ripped up any damaged boards with a hammer and crowbar, then cut anything I could save along the joists using a portable skill-saw. You can set the saw to 17mm, then pull them up relatively easily before replacing.
Hello there and thanks for your further comments. In a situation like this you do indeed have to consider the trade off between how best to lift the boards, the time expended and whether or not it would be more efficient and cost effective to simply rip up the old boards and replace with new ones AND SCREW THE BLOODY THINGS DOWN in case they needed lifting again. This will depend upon a number of factors including the cost, time expended and whether you're doing it on your own or have someone to help you. I did initially consider simply ripping the old ones up and replacing but decided against it in favour of re-using them. It will, of course, depend on the circumstances. Thank you for your valuable comments and feedback. Have a great weekend. ATB, Des
Yes of course you would .. you just need to set the depth of the saw to the thickness of the sheet (normally 18mm) .. run it along all the joints of the sheet needing lifted then use a crowbar to pry it up .. if its nailed down then use a nail remover prior to cutting .. that way the same sheet can be re-layed when work is complete ..
For those screeching "pAy A pRoFeShNuL!!!1!", here's this exact same method being recommended by the "Wood Floor Business" trade magazine: th-cam.com/video/0otkNgZVKeg/w-d-xo.html
Why on earth would anyone even contemplate burning away flooring in their property in order to lift it!!! Complete madness. Assuming of course you even had a propane bottle and roofing torch. Sorry, but I've never heard anything quite so ridiculous
Easy. It doesn't really catch fire but slowly goes black. So I borrowed a torch, emptied the room (opened the window and had a bucket of water handy) started burning at one end. The entire job only took about a day to remove and probably another day to repair the joists and ceiling below. Luckily the room needed decorating anyway. All in all, probably quicker than your method.
Get a nail puller best way to remove nails .Inherited one from my father inlaw best way to lift nails in any type of boarding and causes very little damage .
Sorry, but the whole video is 'how not to remove chipboard'. Set the cutting depth of a circular saw to the thickness of the flooring, then cut out the hole you need. When restoring, fix batons around the edge of the hole as necessary.
Hi there. Sorry but you're really missing the point and your comments suggest that your way is the only way which is clearly not the case. As with any task, there will always be more than one way to achieve the desired objective. You're assuming that everyone has a circular saw. What if they haven't got one or cannot afford one? What if they can't afford to buy extra batons which maybe why they're considering doing this sort of a job themselves? ATB, Des
And that's precisely the sort of smart a*se comment which would make someone like myself even more determined NOT to give smug, know-it-all, so-called 'professionals' one single penny of my hard earned cash. There's absolutely nothing wrong at all with most of my DIY and others and it begs the question why you are watching aDIY video if you're such a big shot yourself?? Have a peaceful, reflective day where you are. Des
Hi there and thanks for watching. I know this internet stuff can be very complicated and difficult for some to to comprehend but stick with it my friend you'll get there. Eventually you'll discover an On/Off switch which may help to ease your pain. They say that time is a good healer ....
Hi mate...how would you go about replacing whole rooms with one end of board butted to solid wall, and a other end runs under stud? Would u cut it flush with wall and noggins in for the joint? A struggle I'm having
Hiya buddy. If it were me I would start where the stud wall is and try and slip the boards under it if possible. However, this can be easier said than done because there could be numerous nails under there securing the stud wall to the joists and you don't want to mess with these. You also need to make sure you clean / vacuum everywhere thoroughly to make sure boards sit as flat as possible. Then work towards the solid wall. As you say, use noggins (?double them up) where the boards meet between the joists and you're good to go. So basically, you're pretty much on point with it already mate. Best wishes, Des
What have you done in the end? I'm wondering about that same thing...
Thanks, but the boards I have are interlocking MDF - Toungue and Groove - I assume I have to destroy pretty much every board to lift the floor up.
Looks like this boarding was only designed to be put down.
Hi there. With the T&G you would have to use something like a circular saw or jig saw to cut through the tongue to get them up. Caution - if you decide to use a jigsaw you NEED to be absolutely sure you won;t be cutting into any wires or pipework which can be very doifficult to predict. Best bet is a circular saw with blade depth set to thickness of boards, cut through the groove and hopefully lift them from there once you've dealt with the fixings. Godd luck, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks for the information and advice - All the best
Half of your video taken place to pull up one screw. Great video👏
My pleasure. Ive got some more footage if youd like to see it ... Lol. ATB, Des
What did you use to fill the hole afterwards?
Good question. I haven't filled them yet but will do so very shortly. Video to follow. ATB, Des
Lol
What about soaking the chipboard with water and waiting a day or two..repeat if needed until its swollen..then use a hammer to knock random holes into it..and then proceed to pull it apart...its much easier when its softened and swollen..also virtually no dust.
Thank you... Brilliant idea
What on earth is this
I've got to repair my bedroom chipboard sheets. I'll be using a small hole saw, drill around the nails, then lift. I'll screw down when they go back, or replaced.
One way of doi8ng it for sure but it's going to be very time consuming my friend. Good luck with your project. Des
It was standard practice to nail weyroc /caberfloor down with annular wire rung nails on site by contractors I can just imagine them pilot drilling and screwing that many screws in each day, so not Gits, I screw them back down when doing remedial work or replacing them.
Thanks, very interesting ! but it would be great if you tell us where did you buy the drill bit ? it looks like your holesaw drill bit doesn't have any pilot in the center... which is uncommon.
Hello there and, of course, more than happy to share. I originally used a circular saw bit purchased in a set from Lidl but it was cr@p so I purchased a couple of these and they were excellent:
www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-25mm/44422
The 'chuck' which held the saw bit was from the aforementioned Lidl kit. I did actually remove the pilot from the centre as this would have hit the nails I was trying to remove and quite apart from being potentially dangerous was unnecessary anyway. Hope this helps my friend. ATB, Des
Oh my.... You really need to rename this video - seriously
Try drilling a small hole either side of each nail and then using pliers. It would be less destructive.
Hi caveman was just wondering if i could get your advice on something ???
Go for it buddy. I'll help you if I can. Des
There is scothia mdf beading tacked to the skirting board all over my flat , theres to many tacks im finding it hard to rip beading off do u have any tips ??
Hi there. Where is it tacked to the skirts? On the top or bottom? Sounds like you will need to try and lever it up somehow or split the moulding down the middle (for example by using a hammer and chisel) and remove the bits separately and then the tacks. Let me know how you get on. Best wishes, Des
Try a Faithfull Nail Puller you would have that piece of floor up in about 10 mins without any damage to the board!!! Hope this helps.
Hi there. Thanks for the tip buddy. Until i made this vid I wasn't even aware they existed. Thanks for dropping by. Appreciated. Des
A trick I learned is to use Dewalt cats paw, and plug cutter, my favourite tools for this type of floor 👌😉
Will chevk them out buddy. Thanks, Des
This is the worst way I’ve watched lifting floorboards, get a circular saw, adjust the depth, lift up with a nail bar, if you work out the joists underneath the board you can run the saw down the middle of the joists so you can still screw the board back in after.
Disagree entirely. Using a circular saw is definitely the best method for normal wooden floorboards and that would also be my preferred option. However, as the video clearly demonstrates, these are not floorboards but large sheets of chipboard which will simply disintegrate and bits will break off if you try and lift them using a nail / pry bar. You'd be lucky to have anything worthwhile screwing back. ATB, Des
21st Century Caveman as someone who has also had to lift chipboard flooring, this is a good method. The only other option is to hammer the nail through the board using a punch.
Why not just use a strong straight router bit on a portable router and either run it around the nail so then its easier to access or around the room and start to pull the boards off using a pull bar
HIya buddy. That's certainly one way of doing it for sure. But if you don't have a router? ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Do it your way!
If the board is say 18mm thick, take your skill saw and set depth to say 10mm, run the saw gently around the joints, then jimmy it up, it should only take a few minutes, this method in the video is all wrong, too much time wasted, too risky cutting into floor too deeply, make it easy on yourself, skill saw and some patience, works a treat every time.
Hi there. Thank you for your valuable feedback and advice. ATB, Des
The first method was one of the most painful things I've watched in a long while. As for the second method, buy a nail puller (mini pry bar).
The effort that went into this must have been considerable, and it's not over yet. Lucky also that the sheets weren't glued to the joists, and only nailed around the edges.
Would it have been more cost effective to demolish the old chipboard and put down new stuff?
Hello there and thanks for your comments. In a situation like this you do indeed have to consider the trade off between how best to lift the boards, the time expended and whether or not it would be more efficient and cost effective to simply rip up the old boards and replace with new ones. This will depend upon a number of factors including the cost, time expended and whether you're doing it on your own or have someone to help you. I did initially consider simply ripping the old ones up and replacing but decided against it in favour of re-using them. It will, of course, depend on the circumstances. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33
Hello Des,
What brought me to your video in the first place was that I'm considering pulling up a t&g chipboard subfloor in one room that i put down only a year ago as part of a DIY renovation. Before i finally put down a solid timber overlay I want to sister the joists to stiffen the floor a little more. It was the first room i did and i can feel the difference compared to later rooms that got sistered joists primarily to level them.
The sheets were all screwed down so that isn't a problem and although the manufacturer specifies applying structural adhesive along all the joists and joins, as it's my own home and the floor would never be exposed to the weather i chose to run an acoustical tape system (called Green Glue) as a less permanent reversible option.
So i have a completely different scenario to you.
By the way, how did you fill your holes eventually? I would probably have tried dowels glued in.
Hello there and thanks for your further feedback. Comments from people like yourself are always welcomed as they are constructive and help to better inform others of the range of scenarios and the possible solutions. Thank you. BTW, I filled them in using sawdust mixed with PVA glue and it worked a treat. No need to cut or fashion dowels - just mix the stuff up and wang it in the holes. Easy peasy. Link below:
th-cam.com/video/r-TfCeyqBds/w-d-xo.html
Sawdust and PVA would work. PVA is one of those thousand uses materials.
I used the same combination to fill a hole in an architrave after relocating a light switch. It sets like concrete and difficult to sand. I'm also finding it shrinks over time creating a slight depression that i then need to keep filling every couple of days (with wood filler). So probably not the best solution in a highly visible location. Eventually it will stop but it's been a week now and still shrinking.
Hiya buddy. I agree that sawdust / PVA combo does shrink a bit and may need filling. Time was on my side and it's worked out great to be honest. With something like an architrave I would simply use wood filler or fine plaster - piece of cake - easy to fill, shape (wet flexible blade) and sand with fine paper. Best wishes, Des
What a spanner 😮
Gut 'wrenching' comment. Take care, Des
You didn’t actually show how to remove the board😏
Use small pry bar lot easier
You've got to get to the nail head first. That's the difficult bit. A pry bar won;' do that. Des
Don't waste time watching this
This video gave me anxiety.
Sorry about that my friend. Thanks for sticking with it. Best wishes, Des
What a mess. It is a lot easier to use a plunge saw set to an 18mm depth - and safer than drilling
You got x ray vision to see any electrical or pipework underneath the floors , i nearly choked on my roll an tattie scone when you that drill bit out, seriously this is horrific
The nails must logically be secured into timber joists or noggins. That being the case, then there obviously won't be any cables or pipework beneath them. Basic common sense mate. If there were, then there would be signs of water damage, electrics shorting or no nails or screws at all which will leave the floorboards squeaking and loose. The latter is the most obvious sign of cables or pipework which would warrant prior investigation. Try a Greggs vegan sausage roll next time matey, they slide down easier than a tattie scone. Have a great day, Des
Wouldn't you have been better off running a skill-saw down the chipboard joints and then removing the sheet/s with a crowbar? The boards should pull up easily once you've removed one of them. These tongue and grooved boards are generally a pain to get up, but I wouldn't suggest burning out your whole-saw bits like that! And if you'd like to remove the nails, you could always use a handybar/hammer to pull them out.
Hi there. Respectfully disagree on all counts for the following reasons:
'Wouldn't you have been better off running a skill-saw down the chipboard joints?' No because the chipboard joints sit on top of the joists and you can't therefore run a saw down them
'removing the sheet/s with a crowbar?' No chance. The chipboard would simply break away where you try to lever it up
'These tongue and grooved boards' They are not T&G boards. These sheets butt up against one another
' if you'd like to remove the nails, you could always use a handybar/hammer to pull them out.' Good luck with that! You've got to get to the nail heads first to be able to lever them up
'I wouldn't suggest burning out your whole-saw bits like that!' That's what they're made for - making holes!
ATB, Des
Thanks for the reply! I didn't realize the boards weren't tongue and grooved, should have paid more attention there. I suppose it's always going to be a case of whether you want to try saving the boards (and peppering them with holes, and taking the time to do so as well as making good of the holes) or simply ripping them up and replacing them with new boards. Whether the labour cost is going to end up being more than what it would be to simply pick up a few sheets from your local timber yard and replacing them quickly. I've got myself a decent handybar which does a great job of digging out those nails. It's just as quick, if not quicker then burning out whole saw bits... whether or not if that's what they're designed to do!
I recently had to go in and repair an upstairs floor which had been severely damaged due to their water-tank bursting. The boards were only 18mm and tongue'n'grooved. I ripped up any damaged boards with a hammer and crowbar, then cut anything I could save along the joists using a portable skill-saw. You can set the saw to 17mm, then pull them up relatively easily before replacing.
Hello there and thanks for your further comments. In a situation like this you do indeed have to consider the trade off between how best to lift the boards, the time expended and whether or not it would be more efficient and cost effective to simply rip up the old boards and replace with new ones AND SCREW THE BLOODY THINGS DOWN in case they needed lifting again. This will depend upon a number of factors including the cost, time expended and whether you're doing it on your own or have someone to help you. I did initially consider simply ripping the old ones up and replacing but decided against it in favour of re-using them. It will, of course, depend on the circumstances. Thank you for your valuable comments and feedback. Have a great weekend. ATB, Des
Yes of course you would .. you just need to set the depth of the saw to the thickness of the sheet (normally 18mm) .. run it along all the joints of the sheet needing lifted then use a crowbar to pry it up .. if its nailed down then use a nail remover prior to cutting .. that way the same sheet can be re-layed when work is complete ..
For those screeching "pAy A pRoFeShNuL!!!1!", here's this exact same method being recommended by the "Wood Floor Business" trade magazine: th-cam.com/video/0otkNgZVKeg/w-d-xo.html
Lol. Who'd have thought it, eh? Thanks for the link. Des
Hilarious !
Surely it would be easier to use a propane bottle and roofing torch, to just carefully burn away the chipboard.
Why on earth would anyone even contemplate burning away flooring in their property in order to lift it!!! Complete madness. Assuming of course you even had a propane bottle and roofing torch. Sorry, but I've never heard anything quite so ridiculous
Easy. It doesn't really catch fire but slowly goes black. So I borrowed a torch, emptied the room (opened the window and had a bucket of water handy) started burning at one end. The entire job only took about a day to remove and probably another day to repair the joists and ceiling below. Luckily the room needed decorating anyway. All in all, probably quicker than your method.
I Failed on lesson 1😂
You, myself and many others my friend. Best wishes, Des
Get a nail puller
Get a nail puller best way to remove nails .Inherited one from my father inlaw best way to lift nails in any type of boarding and causes very little damage .
Sorry, but the whole video is 'how not to remove chipboard'. Set the cutting depth of a circular saw to the thickness of the flooring, then cut out the hole you need. When restoring, fix batons around the edge of the hole as necessary.
Hi there. Sorry but you're really missing the point and your comments suggest that your way is the only way which is clearly not the case. As with any task, there will always be more than one way to achieve the desired objective. You're assuming that everyone has a circular saw. What if they haven't got one or cannot afford one? What if they can't afford to buy extra batons which maybe why they're considering doing this sort of a job themselves? ATB, Des
😂😂😂 Gotta love youtube DIY videos !!! You guys ruin so many tight peoples houses ! Pick up the phone, call a pro, pay with money !
And that's precisely the sort of smart a*se comment which would make someone like myself even more determined NOT to give smug, know-it-all, so-called 'professionals' one single penny of my hard earned cash. There's absolutely nothing wrong at all with most of my DIY and others and it begs the question why you are watching aDIY video if you're such a big shot yourself?? Have a peaceful, reflective day where you are. Des
How would you do it then?
Dont anybody do this !!!!
May I ask why?
this guy is only good for a laugh has not got a clue,check out the first time he tried
Turned off when you got an egg turner out.
This is hilarious
Painful to watch is this what the internet was invented for ?
Hi there and thanks for watching. I know this internet stuff can be very complicated and difficult for some to to comprehend but stick with it my friend you'll get there. Eventually you'll discover an On/Off switch which may help to ease your pain. They say that time is a good healer ....
This has to be a joke right 😅