👍 Yours is the only video I could find to give me some guidance as to how to repair a cam screw hole that was too close to the edge and the particle board broke off - making it impossible to screw in the cam screw! Thank you !
Perfect timing! I've been procrastinating fixing a blown out connector in Scandinavian teak veneer over particle board bed frame for years. Just about to start and the algorithm feeds me your video.
I've had to assemble MANY of these particle-board wonders in an educational setting; students are hard on even the best furniture, and most of what I worked with was much cheaper than IKEA. I'd assemble with a power driver (hundreds of screws in a day destroys your wrist!) but always did the last half turn or so by hand. Some other things I did (since I was not interested in ever dis-assembling the units): 1- Put wood glue in all the holes before screwing into them. The pressure of the screw going in forces the glue into the fibers, reinforcing the hole. 2- Lightly sand and glue all the mating surfaces. 3- Squirt glue into the cam mechanism to keep it in the locked position.
you can use wood hardener in the hole first, then put in the screw immediately. and use jb weld in the cam for a stronger fit. wood glue tends to be brittle when used in metal applications.
Instead of the JB Weld product, I prefer Minwax brand wood filler. Like the JB, it’s a two-part mix that hardens within 1/2 hour. But it’s easier to flow into tight spaces, and flattens easily with a putty knife. Once dry, it sands and drills just like wood. So in your situation, I’d restore a solid surface with the wood filler, then drill a new hole for the fastener. Be careful NOT to get the kind of wood filler that simply fills surface scratches (like Borden or DAP). What you want is by Minwax, and it needs the separate hardener (comes in the package) to activate it. You’ll have a LOT left for future projects, and it stores indefinitely.
I was putting a cabinet together from Wayfair and the holes just crumbled!! I needed a solution and quick because I was hosting a holiday that weekend and I have all of these cabinet pieces laying around and there was no way I was packing all that up and shipping it back, just NO! 😂 THIS was sooooo helpful!! I ordered tge kwikwood and filled the holes and set the cam screws. Crossing my fingers for great results!!
good diy fyi video ! ... back in the day and starting out, i had a lot of experience with boxed furniture and always wondered why they don't reinforce the joints on it.... then i realized that people would buy less of it if they did reinforce the joints...
I have a much better way to deal with blowouts. I mix regular sticky epoxy with sawdust and put that in the blowout. It fills the crevices and sticks to the sides much better because of the more liquidy epoxy material. Then I put saran wrap over it and clamp a piece of wood to the piece to make it flat and even with the rest of the piece. No need to sand because it's already shaped right. You can drill a pilot hole and screw screws into it like wood.
@@bellamuable I've mostly used the stuff you squeeze out of those double-syringe looking things. Yes, mix the resin and hardener first, then add the sawdust.
On repair #2 a coping saw would cut the dowel and I bought mine for under $6, and using a small piece of sand paper without a power tool would be more cost effective. For those looking for a way that is even cheaper.
If you want an instantaneous cement like way to full tree hole just fill with baking soda….. and then Either stick your screw in now or after but if you drip super glue on top of the baking soda it turns into cement basically. You can definitely drill through it but it gets really hard instantaneously
Once I put glue down the holes before joining a finish side to a cabinet - the hydraulic pressure of the glue as I rubber hammered the pieces together blew out the finish surface!!! Lesson learned - luckily I learned this on the side that was against a wall! Less glue is better with dowels!
As stated in other comments I can't stress enough the importance of using hand tools for these types od assembly. Also I wouod recommend using a quick setting epoxy. I do furniture repair professionally and waiting 24 hours for glue to set sucks even if you have time to wait. Both have equivalent hold and sheer strength so why wait?
I understand your idea of allowing the glue to escape, but in such sparse chipboards I think the glue will be pushed back further and help strengthen the damaged area a bit.
Depending on the damage to the piece, Ikea has a fairly liberal part replacement policy. Not so much for stripped thread areas, but damaged panels and such. As a person who has done a LOT of ikea assembly through Task Rabbit, I have had to go back to the store a couple of times for missing parts and damaged on arrival pieces and never really had a problem getting replacements. As to screwing up the pieces in the first place by over torquing....haven't particularly done it. A couple of tips though - Use a drill with a clutch on it in the lowest setting. Never use a plug in drill without a clutch - it won't stop turning in the screws when you pull off the trigger. Know your surface - the "solid wood" is actually solid wood. You'll find this in the Hemnes line for example. Just, it's SOFT wood - so it's easy to drive the cam posts past the stopping point at the surface. Hammer time - there are some parts that require hammering, such as the drawer back plates with the plastic "nails". More blows with less force is the better way to go - don't try to drive them home in one blow. Also, anywhere you are hammering, make sure to support the workpiece as that particle board doesn't like the abuse. And the biggest tip - get a bit holder / extension with a sleeve on it. Extend the sleeve over the cam posts when driving them to keep them from quickly popping sideways and destroying the hole.
Love it, so useful! Little humble idea: 14:50, may spray some water on the epoxy to set it, so that it wouldn't "stick on skin/finger". Love the 2nd method, it seems a little stronger than the other 2 methods 😁
I have 4 holes on my euro door handles bracket that came off. Would kwikwood be better to reuse with new wood screws or bondo. I would need to apply and then screw in the bracket. I can't put the screws with the material in place as I can't be there holding it forever to dry. Would bondo be drillable or kwikwood be drillable?
Method 1 worked great for a drawer that I had that the screws had stripped the holes. Still trying to figure out how to deal with 'fat screws' into drilled holes like the cam, but that hold another piece on (like the drawer that blew out the sides when I put a little pressure on it with it fully pulled out). I think I'll give it a try with the wood filler and drilling with multiple pilot holes (or maybe wood filler around a dowel plug, though cutting that off is going to be tricky since the damaged surface is on the inside of an installed vanity).
My IKEA draw metal dowel bits come right out of the sides of the draw & won't hold. Not this exact problem, but I'm sure this will help me understand what to do. I'll see if there are any vids where my particular problem is the focus. (I don't know whether wood-glue will hold the metal dowel bit to the particle board? I don't think it would.) Anyway, thanks for an articulate, well thought-out and clearly filmed 'how-to'.
If that JB Weld Epoxy is anything like Miliput or greenstuff, if you wet your hands/gloves it makes it easier to work , as it will stick less to your gloves/toothpick then putting it in place.
@@AndreiBanciu most joints come with wood pins as well as the cam locks. I glue all those with carpenters glue. Some veneers will take glue better than others but anything that stops joint movement with help the fasteners. Urethane glues with stick to a lot of surfaces but you need to watch for expansion
And I find furniture assembled that way, which is far superior to just using the cam-locks, can be 'disassembled' with a 2 or 3 lb deadblow hammer, when it's time to get rid of it.
I have assembled many IKEA furniture‘s through the years and many times I had to move them from one room to the other. If I glued them together, it would be impossible to disassemble and move them to another floor to reassemble.
Thank you for this great video! I had one of the screws pull out of the MDF, and I thought we’d end up having to bin the whole piece! I followed your method 2, and ended up with a fix that felt stronger than all of the other joints! 😎
Installed hundreds of furniture cam screws with a power drill on low torque settings without any problems. Just start from the lowest numbers, and increase if not enough. Easy.
Agreed....... Too many old school naysayers warning against use of drill drivers. IKEA worksheets DO NOT recommend using them but that is most likely due to your first time DIYer hitting a screw with full hammer drill function and complaining about the pile of sawdust left on the bedroom floor! Did all my Pax, Malm and Songesand king size bes with a Ryobi drill driver on screwdriver setting with torque on number eight..... Perfect.
Very interesting tricks, I take note for the 3 of them. May I suggest you to stop using the Phillips screwdriver for IKEA screws and use a POZIDRIV #2 (or PZ2) screwdriver instead? Unfortunately, it's not documented anywhere but this PZ2 really is the screwdriver you need for this.
I would suggest learning the difference between the appearance of the two and use the correct driver, some fittings are Phillips and using a PZ2 will damage those
@@meperson and if you do any work on Japanese hardware you might need a JIS screwdriver set, they look like Phillips but have a dot on one side of the screw
Particle board in the first place, is the worst bunch of material that could ever be used to make furniture - regardless of what manufacturer it comes from. I've experienced several damaged screw holes during the many years of putting this type of furniture together... My simple fix consists of two options; 1) make a small batch of sawdust+white (or furniture grade) glue up into a puddy-like form the size of a marble and attach it to the section of the screw that fits in the damaged hole... By doing this, you're making sure the puddy is moulded to the bolt or screw once it has dried...the puddy should naturally bond to the particle board if it's of the proper texture. Secondly; use a steel enforced 2 part epoxy (I usually use the 2 minute cure time stuff to save time. The epoxy works very well and can be painted to match the color of the board.
@@JaymoJoints Absolutely........ Did two Pax wardrobes, four Malm drawer units and a Songesand king size bed. Used my Ryobi drill driver on screwdriver setting with torque set on number eight and it was perfect. Save me hours tightening up an awful lot of screws........
The blowout potential is why IKEA instructions direct you to use manual rather than power tools. I've actually successfully modified IKEA wood cabinets to of lesser length and depth. It can be tricky to do but can be done with patience and the right tools using the same IKEA supplied screws and attachment hardware. The cutoffs can be used as templates to match spacing where applicable. If I ever need to do something like that in the future I'll make sure to do a video of the process. It would be great if EHR does a video doing sizing modifications on an IKEA type shelf unit.
I did exactly the same thing last weekend. Turned the biggest Pax cabinet into the smallest, and even figured out your cutoffs as templates hack before I had to do too much measuring. I thought about doing a video to put on TH-cam or at least taking some pictures, but once the saw got rolling I didn't want to stop.
I assembled my IKEA METOD kitchen cabinets with a torque-controlled power tool, such as a Bosch electric screwdriver...no trouble. It would take too long to complete the assembly with a manual screwdriver.
I always use disposable nitrile gloves when working with any of those 2-part putties. You still have feel, without having a mess to clean up. Also, I find plastic putty knives will get a decently smooth and level surface with the putty, and if you act quickly, clean up with a paper towel. (And, if you forget, you don't mind tossing those plastic putty knives.) Also, if you don't have 2-part putty on hand, mixing half wood-glue and half-water with things like Fixall makes them somewhat more flexible and stickier, and they can stand in for the putty, though that stuff takes 24 hours to properly cure, and it's tougher to sand than the putty.
I should of waited till the end to comment. Why on #3 did you not work to level the wood filler...it is so much easier to try and level it while it is pliable instead of later being like ok now bust out your Dremel to level this out once it has set up? I don't mean to rent but it made so much more work...
I've used thin CA glue to strengthen the hole... just apply a few drops and it will soak into the sides. Wait for it to dry completely before putting the screw back in or it will not come back out easily later on (if needed). Make sure you have threaded the screw in and out at least once beforehand, so that the wood retains the thread pattern before you apply the CA.
For the blowout I would probably go with wood rot filler instead plus maybe put in a dowel in the position where the screw should be. Otherwise if you put the screw in with the wood rot filler there is no way it would ever let go of it.
@@jules3048It should be perfect so long as you followed these helpful tips. Normally a big fan of using matchsticks or cocktail sticks but the glued plugged drilled dowel really impressed me with its inherent strength for a bigger gap. Working as a cleaner in a dentists, I actually used plastic cotton bud sticks to successfully reattach a couple of cupboard doors that had been knocked off their hinges by nurses......
High torque impact drivers and particle/mdf boards are the worst couple. Light electric screwdriver or hand screwdrivers are the adecuate tool to assemble any hardware on predrilled holes in any kind of furniture made on mdf or particleboard panels. saludos Gerardo
Hello I'm trapped in my walls after falling through a gap in my attic I have been here for 2 days 1 night, I've been pooping in the wall cavity and it's starting to fill up how do I get out
It wasn't even Ikea furniture, but a drawer anyhows which had particleboard middle part on the bottom with feet. Whole thing blew from the fixing holes because while I moved to another place, whoever was carrying it, supported the damn thing by the middle part. Cabinet weighs like 60 kilos so you can imagine what happened. It was just easier to remake that whole part out of oak stock and not even try to piece it back together. Aligning those holes was a bit tricky because original piece was so splintered.
Hi, I have a table made of the same material from Ikea. I accidentally got a hole in it that doesn't go all the way through. 😅I'm not sure how to fix it. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Considering how relatively dry the JBweld is compared to glue, I am very suspicious if its ability to bind to the wood. Im sure it gets hard, but I would wager that whole plug will just pop out easily.
Superglue is the answer to all of those holes that are too big!! (and many many more possibilities!) Just put some fluffs of cotton balls (of take it from a Q-tip) in the hole. You can also use some baking soda in the hole. Simply add a few drops of superglue and then wait…. Once it is done, it is as hard as a rock! You can cut away any spill and sand it like you would any other wood piece that is a bit ruff. Then simply use as if it’s a brand new piece of wood and simply drill a new hole into the now 100% fixed piece. You can also use this to fix it when a piece is broken: instead of trying to glue the broken pieces back together with only superglue (you’ll fail, it will never stick enough): take the cotton (or sawdust or baking soda), put it between the 2 broken pieces and add the superglue. Press tightly immediately (make sure the break-line doesn’t get bigger) and again: when it’s dried up, it will be rock hard. Even when a piece is broken off, this is your fix ! Make sure that you put the part on a sheet of baking/wax paper (you don’t want it to be stuck to what is on the bottom) Then take some masking tape and form the new outline (we are recreating the piece that is broken off.) Fill this with the cotton (or the other options), add the superglue. Once it is hardened you take of the tape and ‘tidy up’ the new part: cut, sand and whatever else.
So on the last example why must you put the cam in the putty? Why can't you fill the hole and then drill in the middle after it cures and then screw in the cam?
For sure, asking for trouble but temping to speed up the process assuming you can avoid this issue. My impact driver has 4 torque settings and if I set it on #1 it actually usually does a good job.
You can use a powered driver, if you're careful with the torque. I was using a Makita with the torque initially set at - let's say - 4 and see how far I get. Probably not all the way down, so I increase to 5 or 6. I don't know what the numbers stand for, but I slowly increase the torque that way and so far had no blown out screw holes. Of course, impact drivers are absolutely inappropriate here.
Thank you, this video was helpful. Also wanted you to ask you, how one would fix damage in a faux wood assembly cabinet furniture. I bought it from Home Depot
Thank you for sharing! I definitely have to go with fix 3. Ikea will be the death of me. Wood glue didn’t cut it so I’m ordering the product you shared. Fingers crossed!
IKEA should be ashamed of themselves. They have used the same hardware for many years and should have worked to improve it. They should also have a documented repair method and possible offer a repair kit. As for the Pozidriv, if they want people to use it, they should note this or provide a driver with the furniture.
For method #2, a drill press would be a good way to ensure the second drill hole is centered. First line up the large hole with the large bit, then keep that position locked in until day 2 when you drill the small hole.
Drill press isn't helpful when the hole is a long way from an edge of the panel. My old desk was flat pack, with the holes about 350mm in from the nearest edge. The table top was 1800mm (6feet ) by 900mm (3 feet). Not getting that into a drill press. I get your point, but with these tutorials it better to show everyone universal solutions.
The biggest tip I can give for fixing IKEA furniture is don't buy it in the first place. It's cheap and nasty. I have good solid wood furniture that I bought 30yrs ago and it's as strong as the day I bought it. You can give old solid wood furniture a simple makeover and it'll still be as strong and last another 30yrs, and if you're tired of the look then just sell it for a decent price and buy some other solid wood design furniture to replace it.🙂
I have a pair of pine wood Utaker staking beds. Used hand tools. After 3 years, The corner with the cam nut on one bed simply snapped off where cam nut inserts. There had been a knot in the wood there (Bad!) which made that corner weak. I now have a clue from this video that gorilla or epoxy glue will glue the wood corner back on, and I can set the cam nut in again. I really like that versatile pair of stacking beds in my tiny house.
9:18. I’m not fond of this technique. While it will set the cam screw quite well, the weak spot is the tensile strength of the bond between the KwikWood and the original “wood.” If you do want to use this method, use a Dremel and clean out the hole with the bottom wider than the top, just like a dentist makes space for a filling.
As someone who used to install ikea kitchens for a living, I'm impressed by the little tricks that you demonstrated here.
👍 Yours is the only video I could find to give me some guidance as to how to repair a cam screw hole that was too close to the edge and the particle board broke off - making it impossible to screw in the cam screw! Thank you !
My girlfriend had this exact problem on her Wayfair dresser. You made me look like an absolute hero.
This is one of those videos that people are going to visit for years! Great job!
Perfect timing! I've been procrastinating fixing a blown out connector in Scandinavian teak veneer over particle board bed frame for years. Just about to start and the algorithm feeds me your video.
I've had to assemble MANY of these particle-board wonders in an educational setting; students are hard on even the best furniture, and most of what I worked with was much cheaper than IKEA. I'd assemble with a power driver (hundreds of screws in a day destroys your wrist!) but always did the last half turn or so by hand.
Some other things I did (since I was not interested in ever dis-assembling the units):
1- Put wood glue in all the holes before screwing into them. The pressure of the screw going in forces the glue into the fibers, reinforcing the hole.
2- Lightly sand and glue all the mating surfaces.
3- Squirt glue into the cam mechanism to keep it in the locked position.
you can use wood hardener in the hole first, then put in the screw immediately. and use jb weld in the cam for a stronger fit. wood glue tends to be brittle when used in metal applications.
Instead of the JB Weld product, I prefer Minwax brand wood filler. Like the JB, it’s a two-part mix that hardens within 1/2 hour. But it’s easier to flow into tight spaces, and flattens easily with a putty knife. Once dry, it sands and drills just like wood. So in your situation, I’d restore a solid surface with the wood filler, then drill a new hole for the fastener.
Be careful NOT to get the kind of wood filler that simply fills surface scratches (like Borden or DAP). What you want is by Minwax, and it needs the separate hardener (comes in the package) to activate it. You’ll have a LOT left for future projects, and it stores indefinitely.
Is the repair as sturdy as this example when finished?
@@jules3048 I'd rather put my faith in a glued plugged drilled wooden dowel than risk usong wood filler on something like a 230cm Pax wardrobe......
Perfect man.. thank you for being the type of people who articulate english and being thorough
2:45. Dip the slivers in glue before inserting into the hole. Much stronger!
I was putting a cabinet together from Wayfair and the holes just crumbled!! I needed a solution and quick because I was hosting a holiday that weekend and I have all of these cabinet pieces laying around and there was no way I was packing all that up and shipping it back, just NO! 😂 THIS was sooooo helpful!! I ordered tge kwikwood and filled the holes and set the cam screws. Crossing my fingers for great results!!
Nice, thanks for the feedback!
I've used the toothpick trick but I have never seen the dowel or quick wood hack. Could be real useful someday. Thanks.
good diy fyi video ! ... back in the day and starting out, i had a lot of experience with boxed furniture and always wondered why they don't reinforce the joints on it.... then i realized that people would buy less of it if they did reinforce the joints...
I have a much better way to deal with blowouts. I mix regular sticky epoxy with sawdust and put that in the blowout. It fills the crevices and sticks to the sides much better because of the more liquidy epoxy material. Then I put saran wrap over it and clamp a piece of wood to the piece to make it flat and even with the rest of the piece. No need to sand because it's already shaped right. You can drill a pilot hole and screw screws into it like wood.
Prior 😅😅😅
where do you get the sawdust
@@61akra12 If you don't have any laying around, get a saw and some wood and make some.
@@UFDionysusDo you buy the resin and hardener epoxy and mix it then do the rest?
@@bellamuable I've mostly used the stuff you squeeze out of those double-syringe looking things. Yes, mix the resin and hardener first, then add the sawdust.
On repair #2 a coping saw would cut the dowel and I bought mine for under $6, and using a small piece of sand paper without a power tool would be more cost effective. For those looking for a way that is even cheaper.
If you want an instantaneous cement like way to full tree hole just fill with baking soda….. and then Either stick your screw in now or after but if you drip super glue on top of the baking soda it turns into cement basically. You can definitely drill through it but it gets really hard instantaneously
The back end of a drill bit will work exactly and ensure complete filling. Your videos are excellent.
Once I put glue down the holes before joining a finish side to a cabinet - the hydraulic pressure of the glue as I rubber hammered the pieces together blew out the finish surface!!! Lesson learned - luckily I learned this on the side that was against a wall! Less glue is better with dowels!
That is why fluted dowels are superior to basic ones.
As stated in other comments I can't stress enough the importance of using hand tools for these types od assembly. Also I wouod recommend using a quick setting epoxy. I do furniture repair professionally and waiting 24 hours for glue to set sucks even if you have time to wait. Both have equivalent hold and sheer strength so why wait?
I totally agree. My first thought was 3 minute epoxy perhaps with some sawdust added.
Old school.......
Ryobi drill driver on screwdriver setting with torque set at number eight.
Saves a lot of screwdriver use.........
You need to use those specific dowel types - with grooves. Or if using solid dowels, slice off some wood along the side to allow air/glue to escape.
I understand your idea of allowing the glue to escape, but in such sparse chipboards I think the glue will be pushed back further and help strengthen the damaged area a bit.
Thank you for keeping up the diverse comments. I enjoy reading about multiple ways to approach a project
Depending on the damage to the piece, Ikea has a fairly liberal part replacement policy. Not so much for stripped thread areas, but damaged panels and such.
As a person who has done a LOT of ikea assembly through Task Rabbit, I have had to go back to the store a couple of times for missing parts and damaged on arrival pieces and never really had a problem getting replacements.
As to screwing up the pieces in the first place by over torquing....haven't particularly done it. A couple of tips though - Use a drill with a clutch on it in the lowest setting. Never use a plug in drill without a clutch - it won't stop turning in the screws when you pull off the trigger. Know your surface - the "solid wood" is actually solid wood. You'll find this in the Hemnes line for example. Just, it's SOFT wood - so it's easy to drive the cam posts past the stopping point at the surface. Hammer time - there are some parts that require hammering, such as the drawer back plates with the plastic "nails". More blows with less force is the better way to go - don't try to drive them home in one blow. Also, anywhere you are hammering, make sure to support the workpiece as that particle board doesn't like the abuse.
And the biggest tip - get a bit holder / extension with a sleeve on it. Extend the sleeve over the cam posts when driving them to keep them from quickly popping sideways and destroying the hole.
Watching the presenter use an impact driver left me crying.
Great tips you've provided.
Love it, so useful! Little humble idea: 14:50, may spray some water on the epoxy to set it, so that it wouldn't "stick on skin/finger". Love the 2nd method, it seems a little stronger than the other 2 methods 😁
Thanks alot bro.
Some customers attitude shows they are angels not humans
I have 4 holes on my euro door handles bracket that came off. Would kwikwood be better to reuse with new wood screws or bondo. I would need to apply and then screw in the bracket. I can't put the screws with the material in place as I can't be there holding it forever to dry. Would bondo be drillable or kwikwood be drillable?
Thank you very much ,I was about to buy a new desk becauseI ruined the screw holes
Method 1 worked great for a drawer that I had that the screws had stripped the holes. Still trying to figure out how to deal with 'fat screws' into drilled holes like the cam, but that hold another piece on (like the drawer that blew out the sides when I put a little pressure on it with it fully pulled out). I think I'll give it a try with the wood filler and drilling with multiple pilot holes (or maybe wood filler around a dowel plug, though cutting that off is going to be tricky since the damaged surface is on the inside of an installed vanity).
Good ideas and always a good idea to have things on hand especially these days since all furniture is cheaply made especially Ikea.
If that blowout hole isn't too deep, I think I'd use the dowel method from issue 2, then backfill with the JBWeld.
My IKEA draw metal dowel bits come right out of the sides of the draw & won't hold. Not this exact problem, but I'm sure this will help me understand what to do. I'll see if there are any vids where my particular problem is the focus. (I don't know whether wood-glue will hold the metal dowel bit to the particle board? I don't think it would.) Anyway, thanks for an articulate, well thought-out and clearly filmed 'how-to'.
I use wooden match sticks and wood glue for projects like this. Works greaff!
If that JB Weld Epoxy is anything like Miliput or greenstuff, if you wet your hands/gloves it makes it easier to work , as it will stick less to your gloves/toothpick then putting it in place.
When assembling ikea type furniture I always glue it as I go because it reduces the strain on those fasteners and I never take it back apart anyway
Daniel Harder...exactly!
How do you glue it on the veneer side?
@@AndreiBanciu most joints come with wood pins as well as the cam locks. I glue all those with carpenters glue. Some veneers will take glue better than others but anything that stops joint movement with help the fasteners.
Urethane glues with stick to a lot of surfaces but you need to watch for expansion
And I find furniture assembled that way, which is far superior to just using the cam-locks, can be 'disassembled' with a 2 or 3 lb deadblow hammer, when it's time to get rid of it.
I have assembled many IKEA furniture‘s through the years and many times I had to move them from one room to the other. If I glued them together, it would be impossible to disassemble and move them to another floor to reassemble.
Thank you for this great video! I had one of the screws pull out of the MDF, and I thought we’d end up having to bin the whole piece! I followed your method 2, and ended up with a fix that felt stronger than all of the other joints! 😎
Loved this video!!! In the past I have used golf tees. That works too but so many are plastic now.☹️
Great info - perhaps use wax paper to press down and smooth the JB Weld
Installed hundreds of furniture cam screws with a power drill on low torque settings without any problems. Just start from the lowest numbers, and increase if not enough. Easy.
Agreed.......
Too many old school naysayers warning against use of drill drivers.
IKEA worksheets DO NOT recommend using them but that is most likely due to your first time DIYer hitting a screw with full hammer drill function and complaining about the pile of sawdust left on the bedroom floor!
Did all my Pax, Malm and Songesand king size bes with a Ryobi drill driver on screwdriver setting with torque on number eight..... Perfect.
Very interesting tricks, I take note for the 3 of them.
May I suggest you to stop using the Phillips screwdriver for IKEA screws and use a POZIDRIV #2 (or PZ2) screwdriver instead?
Unfortunately, it's not documented anywhere but this PZ2 really is the screwdriver you need for this.
I would suggest learning the difference between the appearance of the two and use the correct driver, some fittings are Phillips and using a PZ2 will damage those
I was going to say the same. Pozi screws have extra notches and Phillips screwdriver strips and slips.
@@meperson and if you do any work on Japanese hardware you might need a JIS screwdriver set, they look like Phillips but have a dot on one side of the screw
Great tips. Why not just use the quick wood for all types of repairs?
Thankyou. You covered all the options clearly and concisely. Options 2 and 3 worked in my case.
THANK YOU!!! I was looking for this exact thing. Thanks for showing such detailed instructions.
Excellent, this helped me extremely with a cabinet. Great program!
Thanks!
Particle board in the first place, is the worst bunch of material that could ever be used to make furniture - regardless of what manufacturer it comes from.
I've experienced several damaged screw holes during the many years of putting this type of furniture together... My simple fix consists of two options;
1) make a small batch of sawdust+white (or furniture grade) glue up into a puddy-like form the size of a marble and attach it to the section of the screw that fits in the damaged hole... By doing this, you're making sure the puddy is moulded to the bolt or screw once it has dried...the puddy should naturally bond to the particle board if it's of the proper texture.
Secondly; use a steel enforced 2 part epoxy (I usually use the 2 minute cure time stuff to save time. The epoxy works very well and can be painted to match the color of the board.
i will try this with my closet door at my front entrance . the knob is loose / fell out from excessive use over 11 years. thanks
Great lesson! Even though it’s a pain, I try to only use hand tools on assembly furniture.
This is, I think, the most important thing. Particle board is very brittle and the slightest over-tightening will tear it to pieces.
I use a drill driver (not an impact) and dial the torque-clicker thing way back. Then finish with a screwdriver.
@@JaymoJoints Absolutely........
Did two Pax wardrobes, four Malm drawer units and a Songesand king size bed.
Used my Ryobi drill driver on screwdriver setting with torque set on number eight and it was perfect.
Save me hours tightening up an awful lot of screws........
Thanks for the video. Will try out tomorrow. My bed drawer has either situation 1 or 2 luckily not problem 3 🙏
The blowout potential is why IKEA instructions direct you to use manual rather than power tools. I've actually successfully modified IKEA wood cabinets to of lesser length and depth. It can be tricky to do but can be done with patience and the right tools using the same IKEA supplied screws and attachment hardware. The cutoffs can be used as templates to match spacing where applicable. If I ever need to do something like that in the future I'll make sure to do a video of the process. It would be great if EHR does a video doing sizing modifications on an IKEA type shelf unit.
I did exactly the same thing last weekend. Turned the biggest Pax cabinet into the smallest, and even figured out your cutoffs as templates hack before I had to do too much measuring. I thought about doing a video to put on TH-cam or at least taking some pictures, but once the saw got rolling I didn't want to stop.
I assembled my IKEA METOD kitchen cabinets with a torque-controlled power tool, such as a Bosch electric screwdriver...no trouble. It would take too long to complete the assembly with a manual screwdriver.
Great video. Just what to know what you do to touch up the repair with matching paint when the piece is going to be exposed?
I always use disposable nitrile gloves when working with any of those 2-part putties. You still have feel, without having a mess to clean up. Also, I find plastic putty knives will get a decently smooth and level surface with the putty, and if you act quickly, clean up with a paper towel. (And, if you forget, you don't mind tossing those plastic putty knives.) Also, if you don't have 2-part putty on hand, mixing half wood-glue and half-water with things like Fixall makes them somewhat more flexible and stickier, and they can stand in for the putty, though that stuff takes 24 hours to properly cure, and it's tougher to sand than the putty.
I should of waited till the end to comment. Why on #3 did you not work to level the wood filler...it is so much easier to try and level it while it is pliable instead of later being like ok now bust out your Dremel to level this out once it has set up? I don't mean to rent but it made so much more work...
I've used thin CA glue to strengthen the hole... just apply a few drops and it will soak into the sides. Wait for it to dry completely before putting the screw back in or it will not come back out easily later on (if needed). Make sure you have threaded the screw in and out at least once beforehand, so that the wood retains the thread pattern before you apply the CA.
ALSO SUPERGLUE AND BAKING SODA IS VERY STRON
So my nails came out and broke the wood so I can't screw on the nail back will wood glue help
Wouldn't a putty knife work well to smooth out the surface?
For the blowout I would probably go with wood rot filler instead plus maybe put in a dowel in the position where the screw should be. Otherwise if you put the screw in with the wood rot filler there is no way it would ever let go of it.
I’m going to try this , I’m having this same problem right now. Will be back with my review.
Did u do this? How did it turn out?
@@jules3048It should be perfect so long as you followed these helpful tips.
Normally a big fan of using matchsticks or cocktail sticks but the glued plugged drilled dowel really impressed me with its inherent strength for a bigger gap.
Working as a cleaner in a dentists, I actually used plastic cotton bud sticks to successfully reattach a couple of cupboard doors that had been knocked off their hinges by nurses......
what paint would you suggest to use for number 3? i have something that has 2 huge marks like that that are visible so I would need to paint.
Thank you Scott, this is exactly what I was looking for.
You bet!
High torque impact drivers and particle/mdf boards are the worst couple.
Light electric screwdriver or hand screwdrivers are the adecuate tool to assemble any hardware on predrilled holes in any kind of furniture made on mdf or particleboard panels.
saludos
Gerardo
💯. I commented exactly the same thing on another thread. Use construction tools for construction projects / DIY tools for DIY projects.
Funny. I just learn hoe to use the J-B Weld properly. All your methods are fantastic. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Hassan 👍
Hello I'm trapped in my walls after falling through a gap in my attic I have been here for 2 days 1 night, I've been pooping in the wall cavity and it's starting to fill up how do I get out
Stay strong my friend, help is on the way.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs can you do a video on this for April fool's day
Good video. Hopefully this saves people some headaches.
I used 2 part epoxy and it worked but I like the jb weld idea better.
This was so helpful!! Thank you so much🙂
Hello
What sanding tool did you 7se
5hx
Many thanks for sharing! Very useful tips.
Wow! Great techniques!
Thx!
It wasn't even Ikea furniture, but a drawer anyhows which had particleboard middle part on the bottom with feet. Whole thing blew from the fixing holes because while I moved to another place, whoever was carrying it, supported the damn thing by the middle part. Cabinet weighs like 60 kilos so you can imagine what happened. It was just easier to remake that whole part out of oak stock and not even try to piece it back together. Aligning those holes was a bit tricky because original piece was so splintered.
Great tips!!
Thx!
Thanks Scott! Great video and advice 👍
What paint should I buy
Hi, I have a table made of the same material from Ikea. I accidentally got a hole in it that doesn't go all the way through. 😅I'm not sure how to fix it. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Saturate the blown out MDF with thin CA _first_
Then go back and chip off any extraneous veneer or flaking fiber.
Very good content. Thanks
Thank you for this information. You’re very knowledgeable and a good teacher. Your wife is a lucky gal to have you fix things around the house.
I have a 2009 kia Spectra SD ,it is getting hot but it is not lisuesng no water!.what wrong with it
Eu costumo usar serradura e cola de madeira misturada para tapar buracos, funciona muito bem.
Terrific tips
For the 3rd case, does it work if I first apply the epoxy, let it dry, and then drill the hole for screw?
Don't see a reason why it won't provided you have the proper tool to drill it and proper size
Love it, thank you so very very much! Highly useful!
You bet!
Great for Mobile Homes too.👍
Considering how relatively dry the JBweld is compared to glue, I am very suspicious if its ability to bind to the wood. Im sure it gets hard, but I would wager that whole plug will just pop out easily.
oh thank you man
You bet!
Superglue is the answer to all of those holes that are too big!! (and many many more possibilities!)
Just put some fluffs of cotton balls (of take it from a Q-tip) in the hole.
You can also use some baking soda in the hole.
Simply add a few drops of superglue and then wait….
Once it is done, it is as hard as a rock!
You can cut away any spill and sand it like you would any other wood piece that is a bit ruff.
Then simply use as if it’s a brand new piece of wood and simply drill a new hole into the now 100% fixed piece.
You can also use this to fix it when a piece is broken: instead of trying to glue the broken pieces back together with only superglue (you’ll fail, it will never stick enough): take the cotton (or sawdust or baking soda), put it between the 2 broken pieces and add the superglue. Press tightly immediately (make sure the break-line doesn’t get bigger) and again: when it’s dried up, it will be rock hard.
Even when a piece is broken off, this is your fix !
Make sure that you put the part on a sheet of baking/wax paper (you don’t want it to be stuck to what is on the bottom)
Then take some masking tape and form the new outline (we are recreating the piece that is broken off.)
Fill this with the cotton (or the other options), add the superglue.
Once it is hardened you take of the tape and ‘tidy up’ the new part: cut, sand and whatever else.
Thanks for your video !
excellent video amigo
So on the last example why must you put the cam in the putty? Why can't you fill the hole and then drill in the middle after it cures and then screw in the cam?
Because that type of epoxy putty is too hard to effectively screw the pin into it. It won't cut or deform to accommodate the threads.
@@timdouglass9831 got it thanks!
I save saw dust collected in my miter saw and sander. Mix with glue.
With the epoxy try wax paper for working the epoxy putty down.
Well explained Sir.
Good tips, thanks!
Thank you very helpful
Never use a powered driver with that stuff. Hand tools only.
For sure, asking for trouble but temping to speed up the process assuming you can avoid this issue. My impact driver has 4 torque settings and if I set it on #1 it actually usually does a good job.
You can use a powered driver, if you're careful with the torque. I was using a Makita with the torque initially set at - let's say - 4 and see how far I get. Probably not all the way down, so I increase to 5 or 6. I don't know what the numbers stand for, but I slowly increase the torque that way and so far had no blown out screw holes. Of course, impact drivers are absolutely inappropriate here.
You obviously never assembled a large amount of these furniture. 🥱 There's something called electric screwdriver that does not have a lot of torque
Thank you, this video was helpful. Also wanted you to ask you, how one would fix damage in a faux wood assembly cabinet furniture. I bought it from Home Depot
Thank you for sharing! I definitely have to go with fix 3. Ikea will be the death of me. Wood glue didn’t cut it so I’m ordering the product you shared. Fingers crossed!
This is finesse
thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
IKEA should be ashamed of themselves. They have used the same hardware for many years and should have worked to improve it. They should also have a documented repair method and possible offer a repair kit. As for the Pozidriv, if they want people to use it, they should note this or provide a driver with the furniture.
For method #2, a drill press would be a good way to ensure the second drill hole is centered. First line up the large hole with the large bit, then keep that position locked in until day 2 when you drill the small hole.
Drill press isn't helpful when the hole is a long way from an edge of the panel. My old desk was flat pack, with the holes about 350mm in from the nearest edge. The table top was 1800mm (6feet ) by 900mm (3 feet). Not getting that into a drill press.
I get your point, but with these tutorials it better to show everyone universal solutions.
@@gorillaau in that case, a portable drill press for a hand drill would work
The biggest tip I can give for fixing IKEA furniture is don't buy it in the first place. It's cheap and nasty. I have good solid wood furniture that I bought 30yrs ago and it's as strong as the day I bought it. You can give old solid wood furniture a simple makeover and it'll still be as strong and last another 30yrs, and if you're tired of the look then just sell it for a decent price and buy some other solid wood design furniture to replace it.🙂
I'm not boxing with or jumping on my coffe table - just need it good looking and cheap, not indestructible
I have a pair of pine wood Utaker staking beds. Used hand tools. After 3 years, The corner with the cam nut on one bed simply snapped off where cam nut inserts. There had been a knot in the wood there (Bad!) which made that corner weak. I now have a clue from this video that gorilla or epoxy glue will glue the wood corner back on, and I can set the cam nut in again.
I really like that versatile pair of stacking beds in my tiny house.
My gardener put his tools on my drawing ikea table and make a large hole in the middle idk how to fix it
Brilliant thanks 😊
You bet!
Nice. Subscribed!
9:18. I’m not fond of this technique. While it will set the cam screw quite well, the weak spot is the tensile strength of the bond between the KwikWood and the original “wood.” If you do want to use this method, use a Dremel and clean out the hole with the bottom wider than the top, just like a dentist makes space for a filling.