ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2015
- Get the bypass valve here: amzn.to/2mDbFoi - Step by step mechanic's eye view of diagnosing/replacing a bad supercharger cutoff valve on a first generation MINI Cooper S. A bad cutoff valve (BPV) can cause loss of power and in some cases OBD codes such as P1689, P0301 and P1237. Loss of power most apparent around 2800-3000RPM as the engine transitions from non-boost to boost operation, then power comes back as you go to full throttle.
Get the Peake code scanner tool here:
amzn.to/1Dl2zAS
P1689: Electronic Throttle Control Monitor Level 2/3 Torque Calculation Error
P1237: Secondary upstream manifold air pressure sensor low input
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire
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$90 Bypass valve and an hour of my evening. You saved me $1400 and a headache!!!
i wish every mechanic vid was as detailed, descriptive, involved, and overall as thorough as yours! Ppl need to take notes!
adam failing Thanks. Haha - press the Pause button a lot!
Totally
Just wanted to say thank you for posting your excellent MINI videos. You have a great way of explaining the repairs, it's appreciated a lot. Cheers!
It must have been so satisfying to have found the source of the problem. The symptoms of this condition are so unique that the diagnosis can be made next time. Thank you for your insight.
can't tell you how grateful I am for this tip. I've been scratching my head for months.
Thank you 👍🏼 you have a natural talent in communication. Priceless information about our cars. My 05 R52 is coming up on 90k miles, it's completely stock and next winter the engine is coming in the house for a complete overhaul, 🤣 that's what I do, retired mechanic. If ever you're in the Port Huron, Michigan, area, give me a holler 👍🏼😎
I really appreciate all of your videos, they are all so detailed and thorough! Thank you for taking the time to do these! Ed
Thank you I did this today, my car runs like new and you saved me a fortune. Along with a headache thank you.
I tell you what! you've made me want to get one of this cars (a 2006 S) just by watching your videos. I've been wanting to get a car to tinker with, I like to fix/customize my cars and your clear explanation and video are the best, it lifts my confidence to get in there and fix whatever it needs. I have to finish a Honey List and install my air suspension in a different car and I think I might get one.
I don't own one yet and I will subscribe. Keep up the great work!
Great video man, just bought a 2003 mini cooper s and all these videos are really helping me out.
hi mod mini, i tuoi video esono fantastici, le spiegazioni dettagliate, grande professionista, io ho una mini cooper s r53 , guardando i tuoi video ho imparato ad eseguire le riparazioni dell'auto senza problemi, essendo stato un meccanico negli anni 70. Grazie ancora
roberto
hey mod,rwrote to u awhile back about a thump when going over small bumps in the road.i installed new pbs urethane bushings on control arms,new shocks,new tie rod ends,new towers..but still same noise,ugh.but found problem it was bushings from front sway bar replaced and all is well.oh i forgot to say the vid for the control arm bushing installment and home made tool great job,followed your intructions worked perfect.thx again
Great vid! Thanks. Thinking bout replacing this on my 06 MCS. Pushing 70k on the orginal and I've noticed some throttle issues that I think are realted to this valve. Also getting an odor from the egine compartment at speed when the car is pushed a bit that I believe is the drive belt slipping on the supercharger. Belt looks like the original. Thanks again for your vids. Great stuff!
I agree with everyone here. your videos are very thorough, well paced and narrated. I reallllly appreciate them. Thank you
Even at the end of 2019 these videos are very good.
How about 2023?
Best Gen 1 Mini repair videos on the internet!
your videos have helped me with a lot of repairs! thanks so much!!!
Your videos are awesome. Very detailed, practical and useful. Like rocket science (to me) simplified with principles demystified. Thank you!
I am always captivated by the detail on these tutorials. My MCS has been playing up in the same way! Thanks for the pointers,I have carried out the manual check and have low pressure resistance on the vac valve spring, new one on order, keep up the great work, thank you!
james robson Yup, if you can easily press it with your pinkie finger, it's probably bad. Good luck.
That was very helpful, thank you for sharing this information. I will investigate mine now as i have a similar fault and have suspected this valve for a while.
Once again many thanks
I always enjoy your videos. Thanks once again Mod MINI.😆
Thankyou! I just found my problem and saved a butt load of money
I’m positive your first diagnosis is correct. I’m getting a Valeo single mass clutch kit with flywheel. It’s good for 250 hp.
Another awesome video, learning a lot of stuff about my mini from you!
great video and narration!! very easy to follow. super helpful. thank you!
I wasn’t understanding at first. But you are correct. I watched one of your videos and my car reacted the same. I was at idle put my car in fourth, released the clutch and it did not stall it actually moved forward to my shock. It is definitely the clutch and I hope my flywheel is still good. I am familiar with taking the front end apart because your video showed me how to do it to get my alternator so I’m half way there. Thank you so much for your help! I will keep you updated on my clutch change. Could I send you pictures? I’m 10% scared but I’ll be around other licensed mechanics in case I get into a snag. But I’m confident I can do it. I really care about my car.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have to replace it on my girls mini. Like a lot of your videos cause they helped me to repair all the stuff so easily. Greetings from Germany!
You do a great job with these videos.. Please keep it up! Thank you!
I just will like to say that i follow yors knowleage clips this one is second i did my bypass valve today, tuned one i found no jojo even my is 2004 and i bit more exhaust sound? Will just like tovsay thank you for all clips as helpt me understand my cooper s, last Sunday did radiator like u and big help woz two long bolts to holds frame woz great fun and i fell proud of to do things my self... Thank you again i keep follow.
Very detailed video. Think I'm going to do it myself now
Great video as always!
Helped me alot so far thanks !
Thank you for post such quality content really helps me out
My R53 found P1689 .This will clear my problem.Thx.
Unlucky today I check my bypass valve. It work OK. And still found P1689 many time.
Awesome work!!! That's my car :-)
Thanks for letting me work on it. :-)
Awesome detail and video! Thank You
excelent work/video as usual...
Your videos are awesome, thx.
Hi I have a mini cooper not related to your engine .very informative infor .Thanks
I am starting to make 2007-2013 MINI Cooper videos. Subscribe if that interests you.
Nice video. Nice analysis of the failure.
This job looks like it would be easier with the car in service position. Particularly with those lower hose clamps.
You need a pair of Clic R pliers.
Perhaps a radiator hose pick would work to install the intercooler boot.
Garth Goldberg I suppose service mode would open up space a bit more but if you are replacing with a worm type hose clamp, it shouldn't be necessary and saves a lot of work.
I've survived without a Clic R plier until now but maybe will get one someday!
Radiator hose pick would work for the intercooler boot as well.
So if I want to test this to do the zip tie method I want it to stay pushed in or pulled out kinda confused....my symptoms is supercharger lagging or not coming in at all occasionally and makes a drowning cat sound while winding up for a few seconds hope this is it and not something major did just replace the oil in the s/c
I don't have a scanner yet. As soon as I get my hands on one I will send you the codes.
Hello. First off I really like your videos. They have helped me work on my girlfriend's 2003 Mini. I've been able to do a ton of work without taking it to a shop.
I recently took off the cover to the air filter to check it. Of course it was dirty. It's the original OEM one from the factory. The care was bought used and it looked like it was never replaced. After cleaning the air filter the power of the car came right back. It is the original round one not the flat one that can be bought at auto part stores.
This is where my issue began. A vacuum hose came off that cannot be seen. The service engine light is on now. We have tried to reconnect it. My hands are too big and my girlfriend tried to reconnect it. We aren't sure if it is.
I'm not sure if there are any vacuum hoses that are related to the air filter that would throw a code out like that.
My only recourse is to take the engine apart as you have in this video and see if a vacuum hose is disconnected or broken.
Any insight would be helpful. I hope my description makes sense to you.
Thank you.
Chris
Chris Seifert Sounds like you have a JCW. There is one vacuum line between the air box and intake. It falls off near the bypass valve. Anything beyond that, it would be impossible to say much without seeing the car.
Yes it is a JCW. I forgot to mention there was one short and I mean short hose that wasn't connected to anything that I'm aware of.
Thank you for the reply.
That goes to the white connector on the airbox lid.
I was able to connect the hose to the airbox lid. this little hose does not go to the air box. I have no idea where it goes. When I get a chance to work on the car and take it apart as you have in the video I may find where it goes. Her car has no flat spots in acceleration I doubt its the bypass valve throwing the service engine light.
Another great vid! You da man!
Nice job, good info
Hi
Changed bypass valve runs better but still has dead spot!!
Tks Tyler
I just finished replacing my Bypass Valve in my 2003 R53. The yoyo affect is different for these years, if you're able to get on it for a while but just don't feel the power or hear the supercharger, your bypass valve spring is probably broke. My car was able to get up to about 6grand for the first three gears, then after the third gear if I went over 4.5grand it would go into limp mode. Then after going into limp mode the first time I wasn't able to go past 4.5grand in any gear. 1st-6th. But then the next day the car would reset itself and I could do it all over again. The codes mine threw were p1688. 100% bypass valve.
Austin Lilly Yup, the spring is not strong enough on the 2002-2003. This was redesigned in later years. It is good to do a proactive replacement on the early cars. Later cars only need addressing if the spring is broken or diaphragm is torn.
p1688 is usually bypass valve or a bad crankshaft dampener pulley. I've also heard of it being caused by a badly slipping belt or even a slipping/spinning aftermarket supercharger pulley.
Is there anything else you recommend replacing for 2003 R53s? I just bought mine last week, has 105,xxx miles on it. Just replaced the BPV and intercooler boots and I'm not sure what the person before me replaced. But is there anything else known too be going out on these? Oil filter housings?(I ask this because I know BMWs are notorious for oil leaks). Ignition Coils? Ignition wires? Everything is stock except what I replaced, and everything is in running order with no check engine lights, but I just want to prepare if there is anything I should be anticipating to replace.
Austin Lilly If it isn't broken, not really. Suspension parts are probably worn, that would be a good place to start. If it's leaking oil, fix that leak. Probably your crank sensor o-ring is leaking. Next most common is valve cover and oil pan gasket, followed up by oil filter housing and rear / front main seals.
I wouldn't touch coils or wires unless you are getting misfires.Change plugs if you are unsure of their history - even better, get a 15% pulley package from Way Motor Works which includes plugs.
Mod MINI I literally did all of those things except the plugs as the guy before me recently installed msd coil pack and changed all that...a lot of fun those seals were...
just bought one last week!mine have 4 codes p0340 p1688 p0137 p2270 i changed the damper already and camshaft sensor but codes still there.do u have any suggestions on what to check next?car runs fine but i have all these codes and i couldn't delete them.bypass valve seems.but i ordered a detroit tuned.any suggestions?
im having a random issue where i lose power like how you described in the beginning of the video but its at random times. this one time i floored it to pass a car, and after i passed him, i let go of the pedal and i started experiencing what you said, the car was loosing power , it would not accelerate no more than 3k rpm. i had to stop on the side of the road and turn off my car and turn it back on to reset what ever was happening. i have a 2006 mini cooper s jcw also
Another great video! A little more involved than some would have you believe. Keep these videos coming. Any pictures of the disc cooling ducts yet?
BigSteveRealtor I haven't had to take off the front of my car yet...
***** Oh okay I thought you could with just taking off the tire. My bad. I requested your friendship of FB did you get the request?
BigSteveRealtor
I suppose it can be done without removing the bumper but it's a lot easier. There is cutting involved. As a general rule I only add people on Facebook that I have met in person.
***** Okay Ill wait since you are probably correct that it would be better with the front fascia removed. I also understand about the meeting people for FB. I was only hoping because if I were to have questions I could address them to you easier. Check me out on FB Stephen Modica and you can decide from there.
Nice work
I'm getting the dt bypass valve just because I already have a bunch of aftermarket performance mods so why not , they help boost come on a bit faster but obv will effect mileage but I have my Cooper for a fun sporty car not a gas saver ..
Hi Mod MINI, Great video! Lately My 2005 Mini Cooper S can't rev more than 5k rpm(acts kind of like a rev limiter) and throws DSC light and OBD code P0108. I replaced both MAP sensors, fixed few vacuum leaks etc with no luck resolving the loss of power and rev limiting. was suspecting the BPV at one point, but, noticed it has a solid pressure when I tried to move the valve while the car is off. Also noticed it moves from one position to another when the car is rev'd up and let go of gas pedal. Is it a good test the zip tie the BPV while the car is off and expect the car to behave normal ? you think this issue is related to BPV or something else? Thanks for any insight you could provide!
Thanks for your great videos, very informative and easy to follow. What I have going is intermittent limp mode with codes of P1125, and P1229. How can I diagnosis the difference between problems with throttle body or bypass valve. I don't want to just replace parts if not needed. Thanks for your time in response.
JUNK PILE..Did you ended up changing both of them? If so, did it change the performance of your mini?
I'm debating changing mine now and I have no sign of faults just a 03 plate as you say weaker spring
I’m also going to check for slipping clutch. Turn him on then if he doesn’t stall after I release the clutch in second gear that’ll confirm it right?
Double check the vacuum line from the air box.
I just had the vacuum line from the air box to the bypass valve crushed between the two halves of the air box.
P1689 No other codes.
Great videos, please make one on how to rebuild the supercharger. Thanks
It can't be done reliably. Best to get a good used supercharger. They will last a long time if oil is serviced.
I've got the exact same problem at 3k it's like its reclining but no power a dead spot stick thr foot down and off it goes like a scalded cat. I'm getting upgraded one
Yes sir I connected everything back just how it was before ...I double check I even went back and took everything of again and put it back together i didn't put a new throttle gasket didn't think it need a new one
+Juan Garcia Throttle gasket is reusable. You must have a disconnected connection somewhere. Cam sensor, crank sensor...
Hey love ur vids . Got a question . Got an EP light n I can’t get it to go off , did trans flush with additive. Changed batt alt . Still got an ep light . Can I get a little help. I have an 06 mcsa. Cleared code n comes right back on when I start instantly.
What are the 2 lines going into the supercharger intake tube called? One gos to the brake booster but I need to know the ather one my mini is missing that line and the intake hole is plugged trying to fix it but need help knowing we’re to start! Thanks
Hi my car misfires as I floor the car and the bypass valve is really stiff a lot of resistance
Do you think I should try changing the byroads valve, and how can I check if that is culprit
Hoping for ur reply
Mine definatley needs doing 03 plate, not very snappy low in the revs goes good when it's get a going but just doesnt feel very snappy at the throttle
Hey miss your demos @ModMINI I am having misfire and p1498 & p1477codes and pushed the valve and should their be resistance or none (harder to push) if it's easy to push it's a bad valve? Thanks
Sweet!
🎼 No one knows the trouble with my MINI....
Except maybe Mod Mini 🤞 Had vac lines changed and it's still pooping out in second, randomly. No codes except slight evap ones. Thank you and wish me luck!
The vacuum line is popping out? Try putting a zip tie around the end to keep snug
I’m in a little trouble and I need your help. My 05 Mini Cooper s has no power. I can put my foot on the gas and rev the engine and my car goes very slow. The strange thing is no check engine light. I have no acceleration. I put in an additive for the gas maybe thinking it was a fuel system issue. That did not work. My car works so hard to go nowhere. Can you help?
is this job pretty time consuming? cause i believe this is what my issue is but it’s throwing an o2 post cat too lean code. i’m maybe thinking it’s a combination of problems but my car is having power troubles under 4k and then pulls hard after.
hi!
I have the p1688 code one my jcw 2005,
engine light one,
a little lose power very soft
can be the bypass valve?
thank you
Hey again, So the dealer service came up with DME fault code 001688. I thought if I just changed the torn intake boot, that might solve my stalling, limp mode issue. Although everything seemed more or less fine, (still a bit sluggish), after putting it through the paces, (city driving, anyway), drove it somewhat aggressively, stomped on the gas to activate OD, short stops, etc., everything to try and replicate the stall, thankfully without success. Stopped into a store, got back in the car five minutes later, pulled out of the space and... Surprise! Surprise! Into limp mode! After speaking with a very cool shop foreman in Valencia, Ca., he said he knew what was going on, and, more than likely it is a broken harmonic balancer. He said this is often misdiagnosed, even by Mini techs, because many times the 1688 code is misleading. Going to remove the belt and see if the balancer is indeed in puzzle pieces. Let me know what you think.
Dan W That does sometimes happen. When the car is idling, if you see a wobble, that could be the reason. Another reason for fault that I learned about recently is a loose aftermarket 15% etc. supercharger pulley. Essentially - slipping belt results in lower than expected boost.
Did you used to make bmw repair videos as well?
Thanks for this, super helpful! My 05 mini S has a surging feel during acceleration but no codes. Going to check the spring pressure right now 😀
Hey Mod mini thanks for all your vids man, great stuff.
Hey i replaced my bpv on a car that was working fine besides a lack of boost and now when i start the car, itsss weird reving and wont hold idle.
I had a look at the bpv with the engine sortta running and it not opening.
Gives me the codes 1109 and 1242.
Did i break something? it is a little wiggely on the green gasket on the supercharger side of the crappy plastic tube Any ideasss???
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for all your great videos, I've restored a few MCS with your info. My question on this video is would a faulty bypass valve also cause the R53 to tick over rough on start up? It feels soft to push compared to my other cars, and it's had a new head build, plugs and coils?
Keep up the good work. Cheers Matt
probably not.
I do not know what part of the car is the valve pcs of my mini cooper turbo 2009?
I have a 03 mini cooper s supercharged and the clutch safety switch failed. We put a bipass on it til the new switch came in but when we put the new switch on it did the samething as it did when we had the old one on. Anyone have any ideas what else i need to check?
thx!
I have the sometimes yo-yo on acceleration but no codes. 159k miles. I have already replaced coil, plugs, wires, fuel filter. Any other hints to determine if it is indeed the bypass valve going out?
It's generally the bypass valve and even then sometimes doesn't go away. Get the Detroit Tuned one for best luck
Does this often go bad on the facelift R53s? Mine feels like I don't have boost, and from inside it sounds like air is rushing out when accelerating, but on the surface everything seems tight. I don't think the car is throwing any codes either as there are no extra lights on the dashboard. Thanks for your videos, they've proven useful already once before when replacing my driveshaft.
Yes, part is identical. Check your intercooler boots for cracks or otherwise smoke test for air leaks.
Ok I understand that got the car back today and befor I got it home it thowed a engine proformance light on the tack the engine speed shop replaced blow off valve it's a forge blow off valve I have noticed that when it rains I have no trouble light and the car has good power do you have any clue were I need to start
Bud Bullis Sorry, I don't have experience with this issue. I would pull the codes and then do some Googling using that code + blow off valve and see what comes up, then filter out the obvious garbage / wrong answers.
Hello can you help please my mini is not accelerating like it should be sputtering a lot and not giving much power
PUT THE CAR INTO FRONT END SERVICE MODE FIRST. So much easier, quicker and less headache.
After struggling to wrangle it out, I put it into front end service mode for access. There was NO way the pipe was coming off the diverter valve and intake chamber unless using some pry tools whilst it's on the bench.
hi think of getting a mini I live in the e.u and I do all my own car work as hobbie I cant afford a works or a high valve mini what is there to watch out for ..like the videos .I did here a awlfull lot of tourble with first gen minis
Great Video can you comment on how to zip-tie the BPV shut to test boost - thanks.
Tie it shut, if car has lots of power, the vacuum diaphragm may be bad.
Question where do the hose on the air duct go to?
What code reader would you recommend for a R53. ? Thanks
Is it possible to route the cold air intake towards the front of the car? I always hated that is routed to the back
There is a cold air intake there already. (The black plastic tube)
Hey need some help I have a Mini Cooper base. Hatchback and we put a new timing chain tensioner but we took of the electric throttle and disconnected it from the wires .. After we was done we put everything together but now it turns Gud at first but then the gas pedal doesn't accelerate
+Juan Garcia Did you reconnect the throttle electrical connector? It's easy to forget and car will idle without it.
I have a similar problem i lose power like my mini will bee on the freeway and the car will feel like i let go of the accelerator and press on it again, when im firmly pressing it. And it will do it on the street sometimes too the only thing that doesnt match is the 3k rpm and i have no check engine light do you think it might be related to this valve?
Maybe. Check, the spring tension.
Would this issue contribute to low mpg even if you get no codes?
Great videos! I have a 2003 S have done a ton work thanks to your detailed videos. Not sure if this could be related to the bypass valve but if I pull off the oil fill cap there is a positive pressure (no vac.) a rag actually blows in the wind. I'm not getting any codes and the car generally seems to run ok. Is positive pressure in the crankcase normal?
That's normal and is due to compressed air escaping past the piston rings and entering the crankcase. That's what the PCV and breather hoses are for. They suck up the blow-by gases. It's also why you don't want to run the car with the fill cap off - it will spray a fine oily mist everywhere.
Thanks for the quick reply and reassurance. I was nervous that the high pressure could cause oil leaks. Keep up your great work.
And I was wondering about the octane in the gas. I thought I would get a check engine light because the fuel would be too rich. I will use 91 or above from now on.
Hey it's Juan again I'm here with the car I told u about and I don't c any thing that I left disconnected is it possible dat that the electric throttled got dis programs or something with the timing chain cuz I did put the new timing chain tensioner the car also turns off if I press the gas pedal
+Juan Garcia Sorry, this sounds like the kind of thing that is not possible to diagnose further over the Internet. Is it possible your timing is off / chain jumped several teeth? Might need to pull the timing cover and have a look. Other than sensors, I can't think of anything else. I assume you already unplugged/reconnected all the sensors.
Hello again,
I do have the classic yoyo affect cooper, apparently this was also a problem with the software as they did role an update out in 2004?
Anyway I was looking for your opinion on changing the vaccum system? Does this seem beneficial to you?
Thanks :-)
Warwick Dean Vacuum system? You mean the bypass valve? From what I understand, it should help for a 2002--2003 with yo-yo.
Do you have a video that replaces air intake duct? I have EML issue P1498 and independent shop tells me I have a cracked intake duct,..
Hi Ronaldo
Did you resolve your issue? What was the fix?
Mine has a weird surge under 3000rpm. Now i need to go check this. Can you reach the solenoid without removing much?
yes, Select Reset all engine adaptations
Thank you so much for your videos. I have a problem with my Mini regarding the super charger. My Cooper S doesn't work. There is no whining and the car does go rather slow. The car also goes limp if i accelerate to fast even in 6th gear on the motorway occasionally! In this case I will have to turn the car off, wait at least 3 seconds and then turn it back on. If I don't wait 3 seconds the car makes a cringing, staticy, scraping noise. The dealer said it was because of the Bypass valves and MAP sensor. I would much appreciate any feed back.
I can't really say anything based on this. The dealer is probably correct. Press on the spring like I said in the video. If there is almost no resistance, you might have a bad BPV. It is unlikely that the BPV and MAP sensor failed at the same time. A bad BPV will cause various codes as I mention in the video description.
***** I took out the bypass valve and it seems to have good resistance. the spring seems to be good. is there a way test to see if it leaking. Or do you think it could be something else?
Han ozdemir Suck on the tube to confirm the spring retracts.
Hey quick question I just replaced the engine in my 2005 mini cooper s and now they saying it crank but it want stay crunk they're not getting any codes on what it could be do you have an idea of what it could be?
Go back and check all of your work. If engine shows good compression readings, it's something you missed.
Question my 06 Cooper s has been hesitating and stuttering at lower rpms along with an evap leak code. Started off as p0455 large leak. I spent a $1000 having a smoke test done and a bunch of parts replaced that I already knew were no good as well. Such as o2 sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, map sensor, supercharger intake tube (smoke test determined leak was coming from this tube) and some other ignition parts. But my question is that can this bypass valve cause an evap leak? It’s been an issue since I bought the car haven’t been able to locate it yet. My car also went into limp mode on me before the work was done and read p0301 misfire cylinder 1. Could this bypass valve be my main issue?
BPV cannot cause evap leak
great video as always, but coming from 8 yrs in the future, you might as well just buy the throttle body bypass valve assembly as bypass valves are now like $160+ as well >.>
I have a 2002 mini base shift stick, my question is why when I put 1st to 3rd gear car speeds up kind of strong but when I put 4 and specially 5th gear it it looses power, even impress the gas pedal all the way down its hard to pick up speed? Do u know y? Tnx
Well, taller gears will demultiply the torque that reaches the wheels, so it will never have as much pull as in a lower gear - especially in a base MINI that doesn't have much torque to begin with. Another possibility is a slipping clutch. If that is the case, you would hear the engine noise climbing even though the car is not speeding up. That's all I can think of.