Highly recommend smearing petroleum jelly on the o rings as another commenter said, helped a bunch, everything went together smooth. I even put some on the bottom of the retaining ring, as mine was rusted. I put a little on the inside holes of the filter, too. Also, used the screwdriver trick to wedge the basket for reassembly. Great vid, didn't take too long as I already had my back seats out to replace the rear 6x9 speakers.
Thanks for an awesome video. Replaced my fuel filter last weekend. One bit of advice for other novices like me is to ensure that the large rubber gasket is installed properly before replacing the filter housing. I did a bad job of it and noticed a slow fuel leak a couple of days later. When I opened it up I found that the gasket was twisted and pinched. Shameful as I didn't check it properly and forced the metal ring back on. Replaced with the second gasket (now I know why they put a second gasket in the pack - for people like me who can't get it right the first time), installed it properly this time and it's working perfectly.
Hey buddy, just wanted to say thanks for your videos! I’ve learned a ton from them. I recently bought a Mini R53, and your content has been super helpful throughout the process!
I just did mine tonight. Took me 3 hours. Which included walking to the car, starting it, waiting for the gearbox to thaw out as it was stuck in reverse (28ºF tonight and ice everywhere), drive it to the hangar where I'm working. Goof around getting the seats out, reading the Bentley manual, cleaning up several instances of fuel splashes, numerous trips to the office to review this video. Overall it was very easy thanks to your video, thank you. My filter housing went back together a little easier than yours; there is a tab in the back side of the top cover of the filter housing that lines up with a notch in the seat. Line those two up and the assembly goes back down into its normal position very easily.
Word to the wise, The Vaico filter large O ring for the canister I received was too thick. It took a bit of time and effort to figure out why the top wasn't fitting down far enough to be able to twist and lock the top. I ended up using the old one FTW. Also, a bit of vasoline on the O rings makes putting everything back together a bit smoother. You got this!
Always the BEST videos and explanation of how to fix my Mini. Have previously changed filter and pump. After 50K miles car just 'died' on highway 2X as if it ran out of fuel. Tank is low but not that low. Changed relay. Now on to filter and pump (and more fuel). If this doesn't fix it.....IDK, more troubleshooting.
Changed the fuel filter on my 2005 Cooper Convertible this past weekend. Thanks to this video it went flawlessly and quickly! Also, I put the top down to have more room to work :)
Thank you for helping me change my fuel filter! Amazing video! I've had my MINI for 11 years and never changed the fuel filter. I let it go too long. I can tell a difference after changing it out, and your video was priceless.
Thanks for doing this video, helped me out and very simple to follow your instructions, keep up the good work, the mini world needs good people like you.
After reading some comments about people having problems with the generic fuel filter kits, I purchased the mini brand filter from Pelican parts. Everything went together very easily. I used Lucas fuel treatment product to lube the o rings and inside of the filter. This made it easier to put back together. Thanks for the great video!
Another perfect video! Thanks. Got this new filter in house over a year, but still havn't done it. This will make it more easy. I've changed my fuelpump because it brake down. With the first start, just put the car on ignition. Hear the fuelpump work, and do so 2 or 3 times. You will hear the pump work harder, then start. It will start right away.
Thanks - correct, there is no priming procedure specified other than just cranking until it starts. If for some reason it doesn't start, one of the o-rings is was probably dislodged on assembly and is not sealing.
Great video- I like the step by step- and speed through tedious stuff. I have a few things I am going to do to my '04 Mini S and this is one of them. Tired of getting paying a mechanic (as coopers are EXPENSIVE when they break). Watching this video helps immensely- THANK YOU!.
Thank you Mod MINI! My daughter's 2010 R56 Cooper S cold start problem and misfire codes are now gone! I first tried to fix these issues by cleaning the intake valves and when that didn't help, I swapped the high-pressure fuel pump with my 2011 JCW with no luck. The dirty fuel filter was the problem. No codes anymore and the car starts at the first press of the starter. I did, however, forget to bleed off the fuel pressure (2:51) before I disconnected the fuel line on the top of the housing (3:46), fuel and o-rings sprayed everywhere! Luckily I found all of the pieces but, unfortunately, both of the o-rings in the housing were torn when they shot out and were no longer usable. Be sure to depressurize the fuel system! You can see the retaining ring in the cover at 5:33 in the video. The o-rings are not available at the Mini dealership or online. The housing cover is not available separately either. I almost had to replace the entire unit! Fortunately, after lots of research I found a fuel line quick disconnect connector at NAPA that amazingly had the exact same size and color o-rings, and spacer in it. It is a Chrysler/GM 5/16" Steel to 5/16" Nylon Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Connector part number 730-5617 and there are two connectors (two sets of o-rings) in the package. I had to hacksaw the end off of the GM quick disconnect but the o-rings and spacer slid right out. Using the original retaining ring from the filter cover I was able to secure the new o-rings and spacer by putting them on the fuel line and sliding the whole thing into the cover. No leaks at all, dry as a bone.
Interesting. I'll remember that. I know some of the R56 have problems with the high pressure fuel pump. If the problem comes back you might want to check that.
Thank You for this video! I just changed my fuel filter on my R55 N14 2009 Clubman S. One caveat, the inner O ring has to be seated correctly, and before screwing on the lid, make sure the notches match up so you can screw it on. I thought I had it right, but my car wouldn't start. I took it apart again ensured all gaskets were correct, and discovered the alignment of the cartridge lid was not correct. After putting it all together again, it started, and my car sounds great too!
Thanks for another helpful video bud, changed out my "petrol" filter today and it was a breeze just like all the other repairs I've done after watching your great "how-to's". Spilled a bit of fuel, but as I had seen when it would happen, had towels ready to go and they soaked it right up. Absolutely no smell in my car after :) I will say this much, you weren't kidding about the amount of force required to remove the old filter... I had to wedge a screw driver thru the paper element and pry the dang thing out! Thanks again *****, I think I was running lean due to a clogged filter, my test drive after seemed to show improved response and the early detonation I was hearing has gone away for now!
Thank you for this. Did fuel filter, oil filter, interior filter and fresh oil today. All for 85 euro in parts. Without you I would be out several hundred.
Thanks ModMini! Just used your clutch vid last month, now this one. My filter was disgusting, car was hard to start - guess after 205k miles it was overdue. Thanks again for taking the time to put these videos out!
I live in NZ and just priced up a RYCO aftermarket fuel filter, one place was selling them for NZ$88.00 I laughed at them and made a B-line for the door and the other was $192.00! All because the original BMW ones are exorbitantly priced!
Thank you so much for all the r53 mini maintenance videos. I just bought myself a 2003 R53 and saved all your videos in my playlist so I can start doing these jobs so I can have a piece of mind. 🤗
That old filter looked in a bad state. Having seen that you've convinced me to have a crack at changing mine (R52 convertible 2006). Top video as per usual! Keep up the good work.
As usual you gave me the confidence to take on another small but scary task, the only problem I had was with the large gasket which fits at the top of the unit. It took me a while to figure out that I shouldn't have fitted it to the top half of the unit but place it in its final position first, then push the unit into place.
I've Just replaced my Fuel Filter with a proper OEM BMW part. Great video and easy to follow. I put a little bit of Vaseline on the casing as well as the o ring and it helped it slip back together and turn and lock easily. My R53 was bogging down on hard to medium acceleration from a standing start and replacing the fuel filter has all but eliminated it. I will be replacing the bypass value next and hoping it will help with the rest
Just did this job on an R56 2009 Mini Cooper. Almost all of your steps applied! Thank you for posting this. I couldn't get the plastic housing back together again with just two hands. Luckily, my dad was around to hold the housing in a pair of Channel Locks while I grabbed from the top and the bottom and twisted the filter housing on. One thing I would add, use a marker to mark the housing parts so you put it all together the way it came apart. Car is running much smoother.
Hello MODMini, Happy New Year to you, sir! Well, over the last 30 days I've completed a good number of maintenance DIY projects (using the procedures illustrated in your incredible series of videos) on my '06 R53. I finished everything up a few days ago and was driving it - just fine - all morning, yesterday, and then - last night - was heading to the gas station to fill it up with a complete tank of fuel. I had 45 miles left on the remaining-gas computer readout and then, suddenly - just lost - ALL power to the engine and went into limp mode. I was able to get it back into the garage without needing a tow (friend just pulled me; thank GOD I bought & just installed a $12 tow hook from eBay; people get ONE if you don't already have one) and now the vehicle won't crank over & start. Over the last 18 x hours, all the posts I've read on the NAM forums give me the reason to believe that my fuel tank was pretty much "ran dry" and I'm confident the culprit is I need to get fuel repressurized back into the fuel line. So, early early this morning, I followed your fuel filter replacement video and got the old filter changed out and a new one installed. I had already changed the filter 30k+ miles ago so this would now be my 2nd filter replacement. Anyhow, after reading on NAM forums, to turn the key to 2nd position a total of 5-6 times to repressurize the fuel lines (did that) and then - from your video - to crank the engine for at least 15 x seconds (did that, too).....still no start. And, the other weird thing.....the car has NOT thrown a code - from the outset! So, from that - I'm just needing what would your "Top 5 list" of other items to look at that could be keeping the vehicle from turning over? Here's what I'm thinking as of right now: 1) check fuel pump fuse (haven't done that, yet) 2) reset ECU to see if the computer is "telling" the car not to start for some reason 3) check fuel rail - using fuel pressure gauge - for 51 psi fuel pressure 4) could a vacuum leak cause the vehicle NOT to crank over (I did replace the supercharger oil on both the snout & PTO sides but - again - it drove FINE, yesterday morning). and, 5) I replaced my oil cap with a new one.....I read on the NAM forums that someone had so, as well, and experienced this issue.....went back to the OEM oil cap and car started again. And, finally, after replacing the fuel filter - this morning - I am beginning to consider replacing the fuel pump ($207.09 from ECS Tuning) but - just this morning - I heard it pressurized the fuel line & I'm continuing to re-check & confirm for that sound, this afternoon. Any suggestions that you could provide would be GREAT advice & I'm thanking you for it, in advance. You are truly The Mini Master/thank you for what you do for all of us & the Coopers on Planet Earth! Russ
I think you're on the right track. The next step would be to attach a pressure tester on the end of the fuel rail. If it's reading basically zero, you have an electrical problem or the pump is bad. If you have pressure but it's below the nominal value, (51psi), replace the fuel pump.
Yep, that's what I'm moving onto doing today & tomorrow. And, last question relating to this, I put a small bottle of Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Injector Cleaner into the tank with about 3-4 gallons in it - before driving it - yesterday morning. Do you think that the injector cleaner could have somehow CLOGGED the fuel line? Or, the fuel rail? And, what's interesting about this....when I replaced the fuel filter this morning - when I unclipped the fuel line from the canister only a VERY small amount of fuel dripped out of the fuel line and there was a VERY large amount of fuel (filled to the brim) within the plastic canister, itself. If I get the fuel rail exposed (by removing the intercooler) and the pressure test shows decent pressure - is there anyway you can think of to CLEAN out the fuel line from the tank to where it hits the fuel rail? I'm starting to think my entire problem is the damn fuel line is clogged up with that Lucas Oil crap!
***** I don't have much experience in this area but I doubt it would clog anything. Next step would be to remove and test the fuel injectors. I think only a shop can do that.
Thanks very much for the reply and I replaced the fuel pump - yesterday morning - and, unfortunately, the R53 still won't start. It will crank but not turn over. I, also, changed out the spark plugs to the stock BRKR6EQUP and re-installed my original OEM distributor to make sure I had "spark". Also, I confirmed at schroeder valve that I have fuel, too. Yep, it's there. So, I just spoke to a technician at a local MINI shop here in KS and we both agreed that replacement of the crankshaft position sensor would be my next step before having the vehicle towed to their shop for further diagnostics/repairs. I'll get the sensor ordered today and will install it, early-to-mid next week and we'll see if that gets the vehicle to finally start. Thank you SO much for your advice, up til now, and let's keep our fingers crossed!!!
Interesting. Crank position sensor should not be affected by that work. By distributor I assume you mean coil pack? Did you check for spark? Connect one spark plug wire to a plug and hold the plug against a grounded surface. The plug should spark.
Man, many many thanks for this guide, I was in panic since I didn't fix one of the filter oring correcrly in position and the Mini wont start, the answer was in the comments.Thanks angain!
I wasn't able to put back the lid because of the gasket which need first to be put on the tank and not on the white part. It's not explained on differents tutorials accross the web. It was beginning to seriously annoy me. So thanks a lot for this great video !
Great how to video, but need to mention that the battery should be disconnected before removing either of the seats and left disconnected until all back together correctly, other wise the seat air bags being disconnected will trigger the dash air bag light that then needs to be reset at a cost.
That is correct, if you don't have a BMW scanner, but there is no need to remove seats to do this filter job. They were already out of the car for other reason.
So I popped my cover and discovered a wet assembly. I had been smelling fuel for a bit so I was happy I’d found it. What I discovered was a cracked lid where the high pressure line is attached. My question is I would like to just replace the top. Is this advisable? It appears the rest of the housing is fine and of course all the o rings and the filter are brand new.
Great video! I just did a fuel filter change on my car the other day and now it won’t start. The fuel pump sounds like its priming and fuel is being pushed up through the fuel filter housing when I primed the car with the hose off (messy). However when i disconnected the main fuel line going to the rails and put the ignition to pos “2”, a couple of times, there were no fuel going there. Was I missing any steps ?
@@ModMINI thanks mate, coincidentally, my fuel pump gave out at the same time. Had that replaced and she’s up and running again! Keep the great videos coming!
I put clean engine oil in the hole on both sides of the hole in the fuel filter and it slipped right in without pushing very hard. This will also prevent the o-rings from sliding off. This sounds gross, but put oil on your pinky finger and lube up the hole
Aaaaaand, I missed that note with the lube or silicone when putting it back together. And guess what happened: it ripped into pieces and fuel leaked out. Well, at least I get to do it once more.
Safety tips for working on fuel tank in an enclosed space....Disconnect battery, Open all doors/windows, Do not smoke and DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC POWER TOOL AS THEY COULD IGNITE FUEL VAPOURS FROM ELECTRICAL SPARKS !!!!!
Great Video, I just had a P2096 code pop up. I think it may be the fuel filter. It has been making kind of a diaphragm noise when it starts in the morning. Do you think I might need to replace that entire unit? Not sure what a pressure regulator noise sounds like. It definitely comes from the passenger side.
Excellent video. I successfully replaced the fuel filter in my 2006 R52. Had a few issues along the way. First I did not properly put the lid on the canister. This resulted with no gas getting to engine. Once fixed, I drove to the gas station to fill up. This time a little gas leaked and spilled on the ground. Drive home and repositioned the seal about the canister. All is good now except the gasoline smell in the car. Luckily it’s a convertible. Any suggestion how to remove the smell?
How long the job should take varies dramatically based on available tools, prior experience and aptitude for tinkering. But it shouldn't take long at all.
Mods MINI i dont know if i should buy a 900$ 2005 mini cooper s that has 200,000 miles and needs a new fuel pump and needs new suspension and control arms on rear left of the car because it was in a wreck. Or should i just get a 2005 mini cooper s with just 70,000 miles and will be 3,500$
Could you make a video about replacing the fuel filter housing? I ran into a problem with the fuel line connection, if you post a video about how to replace the whole housing, that would be helpful!
I have a Mini Cooper 2001 (R50). For some reason I have a different type of fuel filter from what you have. Mine is one of the hard metal encased filters where I can't get access to the card filter. Is that something you've come across before? I can't seem to find a suitable encased fuel filter online anywhere...
The 2001 and early 2002 have metal canister filters. They are hard to find. I believe the entire housing needs to be replace for those. Might need to check with a dealer (most will ship parts if there is not a dealer near you).
Just finished installing the new fuel filter on my MCS 2009. Same exact procedure, but was baffled a bit on the 2nd large ring that came with the kit for a while. Thanks for the installation video was very helpful. What would you recommend on the next fuel filter change 20k or 30k?
Any idea what part number is needed for a new fuel sending unit housing ? Mine has a crack . 2005 mini cooper base model . Current unit says r52 will any of the r50 r52 r 53 caps work ?
First, let me say that I love Mod MINI's videos. They are excellent. But I do have (what I believe is) an important comment on this video. I don't think the guessed purpose of the two gaskets in the kit, as stated in the video, is correct. While I have the OEM fuel filter kit, rather than the Vaico kit installed in this video, I can tell you that one of the two gaskets in the OEM kit is marked "Diesel Only". That is, the fuel filter kit is a universal kit for either diesel or gasoline applications (there is a diesel MINI in Europe). In the US where only gasoline MINIs were sold, use the gasket that is not marked "Diesel Only". I presume the Vaico kit includes two gaskets for the same reason. Can anyone confirm?
So I'm sitting here in my car waiting for the tow truck. Car was running fine and all of a sudden it sputtered and it wouldn't accelerate and basically shut down while driving. I pulled over and started it up again and drove fine for a few but lost power as soon as I hit 55 mph and shut off again, did this about 5 more times. Finally it shut down and doesn't start now. At least i have a good signal so I'm able to watch your videos. Breaking my head over this.
+Carlos Cofresi Could be anything. Bad fuel pump or a bad sensor - crankshaft position sensors go bad sometimes. Hope there is a Check Engine Light so you can read a code. Good luck figuring it out.
So I changed the filter no problem. Read the comments and made sure no loose o-rings (for pressure) now car won't start or turn over. There is a humming of the fuel pump. Thoughts?
MJO23DAN Did the problem start when you changed fuel filter? The only issue I know that would cause a problem is a loose/torn o-ring or damaged housing.
+Mod MINI car was running fine before the change. There are no damaged o-rings. I have checked it at least 4 times now and everything is where it's supposed to be.
MJO23DAN Check fuel pressure at fuel rail schrader valve. It should be around 50PSI. Other than that, maybe dirt got into fuel injectors if you did not mop up old fuel. Or, fuel pump was disturbed somehow and has eaten some dirt.
+Mod MINI don't have a gauge to test. I'm gonna have to bring it into a shop to test the fuel system. I did exactly what you have described in the DIY and discarded old fuel. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't fail on me. Sounds like an expensive job.
+Mod MINI ...I think you need to go back and edit your video and add a section to lube the O-rings...that would have been very helpful. I may have messed something else up trying to get all this together.
Where can I find the two small O'rings inside of the 2003 R53 Mini S filter housing head where the fuel line clips into after the outer steel ring is replaced. Mine came out and was split in half. One was bronze and the other was yellow.
Probably a rookie error on my part but I would have a just used a Sharpie to mark the filter ring against the body. It didn't even occur to me that grinding a 3" gouge in the bodywork, right down to bare metal, with a large screwdriver and lump hammer was the proper way to do it.
Im curious to know what if i dont depressurize my fuel line what would happen Also, i came to this video because im certain my fuel pump went out on me and im looking to change my filter alongside my pump, If theres no fuel because the pump died do i still nred to depressurize?
I didn’t replace the 2 small o rings and it doesn’t want to start LOL. I think I messed up the big thin oring I opened and it is ripped. I ordeded a new kit tomorrow hopefully it starts I feel like it leaking internally because of the o rings are only one time use
Mod MINI hi...i have the same problem with the fuel gauge stuck...do you know where the sender unit is? Can I access the sender from the fuel filter as stated in your video? I have a 2002 mini..ime in the uk and would appreciate your help
YOU NEED TO FILL THE FUEL TANK RIGHT UP AFTER A FILTER CHANGE TO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO LEAKS FROM THE RUBBER SEAL.ONCE EVERYTHING IS BACK TOGETHER THIS CAN LEAK WITHOUT YOU EVER KNOWING ABOUT IT ESPECIALLY IF YOU NEVER BRIM THE TANK.
@@ModMINI I noticed you used a Vaico filter...is that a quality part? I have read that some brands claiming to be OEM replacements have improper rubber gasket sizes. Additionally, I am having a difficult time choosing a replacement fuel pump. Ebay has very cheap ones and Amazon boasts about POWERCO fuel pumps which are American made. I was leaning toward the latter or an Airtec? Any recommendations ? I own a 2003 mini S R53/W11
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
It’s hard to find people that have any idea what they are doing it’s really nice to see someone that is really sharp Good job
Highly recommend smearing petroleum jelly on the o rings as another commenter said, helped a bunch, everything went together smooth. I even put some on the bottom of the retaining ring, as mine was rusted. I put a little on the inside holes of the filter, too. Also, used the screwdriver trick to wedge the basket for reassembly. Great vid, didn't take too long as I already had my back seats out to replace the rear 6x9 speakers.
Thanks for an awesome video.
Replaced my fuel filter last weekend. One bit of advice for other novices like me is to ensure that the large rubber gasket is installed properly before replacing the filter housing. I did a bad job of it and noticed a slow fuel leak a couple of days later. When I opened it up I found that the gasket was twisted and pinched. Shameful as I didn't check it properly and forced the metal ring back on. Replaced with the second gasket (now I know why they put a second gasket in the pack - for people like me who can't get it right the first time), installed it properly this time and it's working perfectly.
Ha, should have read your post before I started.
Your not the only one 👍🏾
Hey buddy, just wanted to say thanks for your videos! I’ve learned a ton from them. I recently bought a Mini R53, and your content has been super helpful throughout the process!
I just did mine tonight. Took me 3 hours. Which included walking to the car, starting it, waiting for the gearbox to thaw out as it was stuck in reverse (28ºF tonight and ice everywhere), drive it to the hangar where I'm working. Goof around getting the seats out, reading the Bentley manual, cleaning up several instances of fuel splashes, numerous trips to the office to review this video.
Overall it was very easy thanks to your video, thank you. My filter housing went back together a little easier than yours; there is a tab in the back side of the top cover of the filter housing that lines up with a notch in the seat. Line those two up and the assembly goes back down into its normal position very easily.
Word to the wise, The Vaico filter large O ring for the canister I received was too thick. It took a bit of time and effort to figure out why the top wasn't fitting down far enough to be able to twist and lock the top. I ended up using the old one FTW. Also, a bit of vasoline on the O rings makes putting everything back together a bit smoother. You got this!
Always the BEST videos and explanation of how to fix my Mini. Have previously changed filter and pump. After 50K miles car just 'died' on highway 2X as if it ran out of fuel. Tank is low but not that low. Changed relay. Now on to filter and pump (and more fuel). If this doesn't fix it.....IDK, more troubleshooting.
Just finished this job using only your video. Excellent instruction and job finished in less than an hour
For anyone wondering, it's the same exact method for 2nd gen (2007- 2013)
The best tutorials on the R53, thanks so much for your efforts.
Changed the fuel filter on my 2005 Cooper Convertible this past weekend. Thanks to this video it went flawlessly and quickly! Also, I put the top down to have more room to work :)
Thank you for helping me change my fuel filter! Amazing video! I've had my MINI for 11 years and never changed the fuel filter. I let it go too long. I can tell a difference after changing it out, and your video was priceless.
Thanks for doing this video, helped me out and very simple to follow your instructions, keep up the good work, the mini world needs good people like you.
After reading some comments about people having problems with the generic fuel filter kits, I purchased the mini brand filter from Pelican parts. Everything went together very easily. I used Lucas fuel treatment product to lube the o rings and inside of the filter. This made it easier to put back together. Thanks for the great video!
+Robert Scofield What kind of problems were people having with the non-MINI brand fuel filters?
Another perfect video! Thanks. Got this new filter in house over a year, but still havn't done it. This will make it more easy.
I've changed my fuelpump because it brake down. With the first start, just put the car on ignition. Hear the fuelpump work, and do so 2 or 3 times. You will hear the pump work harder, then start.
It will start right away.
Thanks - correct, there is no priming procedure specified other than just cranking until it starts. If for some reason it doesn't start, one of the o-rings is was probably dislodged on assembly and is not sealing.
I have watched your videos and found them extremely helpful, please keep posting tips on the R53s 😀
"I didn't have to do that of course, cause I have no engine in the car. Haha." That was my favorite part.
Hehe. That part might be a bit shocking to people who have not watched my other videos :)
No not shocking at all. I've watched so many of your videos and you are the best.
I lol'd and played it again for my son
Great video- I like the step by step- and speed through tedious stuff. I have a few things I am going to do to my '04 Mini S and this is one of them. Tired of getting paying a mechanic (as coopers are EXPENSIVE when they break). Watching this video helps immensely- THANK YOU!.
Thank you Mod MINI! My daughter's 2010 R56 Cooper S cold start problem and misfire codes are now gone! I first tried to fix these issues by cleaning the intake valves and when that didn't help, I swapped the high-pressure fuel pump with my 2011 JCW with no luck. The dirty fuel filter was the problem. No codes anymore and the car starts at the first press of the starter.
I did, however, forget to bleed off the fuel pressure (2:51) before I disconnected the fuel line on the top of the housing (3:46), fuel and o-rings sprayed everywhere! Luckily I found all of the pieces but, unfortunately, both of the o-rings in the housing were torn when they shot out and were no longer usable. Be sure to depressurize the fuel system! You can see the retaining ring in the cover at 5:33 in the video. The o-rings are not available at the Mini dealership or online. The housing cover is not available separately either. I almost had to replace the entire unit! Fortunately, after lots of research I found a fuel line quick disconnect connector at NAPA that amazingly had the exact same size and color o-rings, and spacer in it. It is a Chrysler/GM 5/16" Steel to 5/16" Nylon Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Connector part number 730-5617 and there are two connectors (two sets of o-rings) in the package. I had to hacksaw the end off of the GM quick disconnect but the o-rings and spacer slid right out. Using the original retaining ring from the filter cover I was able to secure the new o-rings and spacer by putting them on the fuel line and sliding the whole thing into the cover. No leaks at all, dry as a bone.
Interesting. I'll remember that. I know some of the R56 have problems with the high pressure fuel pump. If the problem comes back you might want to check that.
I hope it never comes to that. It's a $1,000 part!
Thanks for sharing. I changed my Cooper S fuel filter today and would have been lost without your video.
Thank You for this video! I just changed my fuel filter on my R55 N14 2009 Clubman S. One caveat, the inner O ring has to be seated correctly, and before screwing on the lid, make sure the notches match up so you can screw it on. I thought I had it right, but my car wouldn't start. I took it apart again ensured all gaskets were correct, and discovered the alignment of the cartridge lid was not correct. After putting it all together again, it started, and my car sounds great too!
Best how to video for changing fuel filter on my sons mini cooper s 02. Very detailed. Thanks, saved me a lot of money.
Holy crap this was a huge help for me yesterday.... and man, what a massive difference replacing the filter made for power.
Really, was this the placebo effect? Lol.
Bernard Barbour a clogged fuel filter with 130k miles on it makes a pretty big difference in fuel flow.
Drew, I'm going to replace mine ASAP. Thanks
Thanks for another helpful video bud, changed out my "petrol" filter today and it was a breeze just like all the other repairs I've done after watching your great "how-to's". Spilled a bit of fuel, but as I had seen when it would happen, had towels ready to go and they soaked it right up. Absolutely no smell in my car after :) I will say this much, you weren't kidding about the amount of force required to remove the old filter... I had to wedge a screw driver thru the paper element and pry the dang thing out! Thanks again *****, I think I was running lean due to a clogged filter, my test drive after seemed to show improved response and the early detonation I was hearing has gone away for now!
Thank you for this. Did fuel filter, oil filter, interior filter and fresh oil today. All for 85 euro in parts. Without you I would be out several hundred.
Thanks ModMini! Just used your clutch vid last month, now this one. My filter was disgusting, car was hard to start - guess after 205k miles it was overdue. Thanks again for taking the time to put these videos out!
Bro I changed everything right, does it take a while to start? I been trying for about 4 mins so far, and it hasn't started
I live in NZ and just priced up a RYCO aftermarket fuel filter, one place was selling them for NZ$88.00 I laughed at them and made a B-line for the door and the other was $192.00! All because the original BMW ones are exorbitantly priced!
That was just the paper cartridge filter, no seals or nothing.
Thank you so much for all the r53 mini maintenance videos.
I just bought myself a 2003 R53 and saved all your videos in my playlist so I can start doing these jobs so I can have a piece of mind. 🤗
thanks replace my fuel filter tonight. CV joint will be done in the morning. Appreciate the videos.
That old filter looked in a bad state. Having seen that you've convinced me to have a crack at changing mine (R52 convertible 2006). Top video as per usual! Keep up the good work.
As usual you gave me the confidence to take on another small but scary task, the only problem I had was with the large gasket which fits at the top of the unit. It took me a while to figure out that I shouldn't have fitted it to the top half of the unit but place it in its final position first, then push the unit into place.
I've Just replaced my Fuel Filter with a proper OEM BMW part. Great video and easy to follow. I put a little bit of Vaseline on the casing as well as the o ring and it helped it slip back together and turn and lock easily. My R53 was bogging down on hard to medium acceleration from a standing start and replacing the fuel filter has all but eliminated it. I will be replacing the bypass value next and hoping it will help with the rest
Thanks! Wouldn't have attempted this without this guide. 20 min job. No major fuel pressure even though I had just parked it.
My guy I am a mini tech and never done one of these before, it’s my next job how I love TH-cam 😊 great video bro
Just did this job on an R56 2009 Mini Cooper. Almost all of your steps applied! Thank you for posting this.
I couldn't get the plastic housing back together again with just two hands. Luckily, my dad was around to hold the housing in a pair of Channel Locks while I grabbed from the top and the bottom and twisted the filter housing on. One thing I would add, use a marker to mark the housing parts so you put it all together the way it came apart. Car is running much smoother.
Thank you for providing this. Made replacing my filter much easier.
Hello MODMini,
Happy New Year to you, sir!
Well, over the last 30 days I've completed a good number of maintenance DIY projects (using the procedures illustrated in your incredible series of videos) on my '06 R53.
I finished everything up a few days ago and was driving it - just fine - all morning, yesterday, and then - last night - was heading to the gas station to fill it up with a complete tank of fuel.
I had 45 miles left on the remaining-gas computer readout and then, suddenly - just lost - ALL power to the engine and went into limp mode.
I was able to get it back into the garage without needing a tow (friend just pulled me; thank GOD I bought & just installed a $12 tow hook from eBay; people get ONE if you don't already have one) and now the vehicle won't crank over & start.
Over the last 18 x hours, all the posts I've read on the NAM forums give me the reason to believe that my fuel tank was pretty much "ran dry" and I'm confident the culprit is I need to get fuel repressurized back into the fuel line.
So, early early this morning, I followed your fuel filter replacement video and got the old filter changed out and a new one installed. I had already changed the filter 30k+ miles ago so this would now be my 2nd filter replacement.
Anyhow, after reading on NAM forums, to turn the key to 2nd position a total of 5-6 times to repressurize the fuel lines (did that) and then - from your video - to crank the engine for at least 15 x seconds (did that, too).....still no start.
And, the other weird thing.....the car has NOT thrown a code - from the outset!
So, from that - I'm just needing what would your "Top 5 list" of other items to look at that could be keeping the vehicle from turning over?
Here's what I'm thinking as of right now:
1) check fuel pump fuse (haven't done that, yet)
2) reset ECU to see if the computer is "telling" the car not to start for some reason
3) check fuel rail - using fuel pressure gauge - for 51 psi fuel pressure
4) could a vacuum leak cause the vehicle NOT to crank over (I did replace the supercharger oil on both the snout & PTO sides but - again - it drove FINE, yesterday morning).
and,
5) I replaced my oil cap with a new one.....I read on the NAM forums that someone had so, as well, and experienced this issue.....went back to the OEM oil cap and car started again.
And, finally, after replacing the fuel filter - this morning - I am beginning to consider replacing the fuel pump ($207.09 from ECS Tuning) but - just this morning - I heard it pressurized the fuel line & I'm continuing to re-check & confirm for that sound, this afternoon.
Any suggestions that you could provide would be GREAT advice & I'm thanking you for it, in advance.
You are truly The Mini Master/thank you for what you do for all of us & the Coopers on Planet Earth!
Russ
I think you're on the right track.
The next step would be to attach a pressure tester on the end of the fuel rail. If it's reading basically zero, you have an electrical problem or the pump is bad.
If you have pressure but it's below the nominal value, (51psi), replace the fuel pump.
Yep, that's what I'm moving onto doing today & tomorrow. And, last question relating to this, I put a small bottle of Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Injector Cleaner into the tank with about 3-4 gallons in it - before driving it - yesterday morning. Do you think that the injector cleaner could have somehow CLOGGED the fuel line? Or, the fuel rail? And, what's interesting about this....when I replaced the fuel filter this morning - when I unclipped the fuel line from the canister only a VERY small amount of fuel dripped out of the fuel line and there was a VERY large amount of fuel (filled to the brim) within the plastic canister, itself. If I get the fuel rail exposed (by removing the intercooler) and the pressure test shows decent pressure - is there anyway you can think of to CLEAN out the fuel line from the tank to where it hits the fuel rail? I'm starting to think my entire problem is the damn fuel line is clogged up with that Lucas Oil crap!
***** I don't have much experience in this area but I doubt it would clog anything. Next step would be to remove and test the fuel injectors. I think only a shop can do that.
Thanks very much for the reply and I replaced the fuel pump - yesterday morning - and, unfortunately, the R53 still won't start. It will crank but not turn over. I, also, changed out the spark plugs to the stock BRKR6EQUP and re-installed my original OEM distributor to make sure I had "spark". Also, I confirmed at schroeder valve that I have fuel, too. Yep, it's there. So, I just spoke to a technician at a local MINI shop here in KS and we both agreed that replacement of the crankshaft position sensor would be my next step before having the vehicle towed to their shop for further diagnostics/repairs. I'll get the sensor ordered today and will install it, early-to-mid next week and we'll see if that gets the vehicle to finally start. Thank you SO much for your advice, up til now, and let's keep our fingers crossed!!!
Interesting. Crank position sensor should not be affected by that work. By distributor I assume you mean coil pack? Did you check for spark? Connect one spark plug wire to a plug and hold the plug against a grounded surface. The plug should spark.
Great video full of lots of details. I managed to syphon my petrol out after a recent accident. Thank you
Man, many many thanks for this guide, I was in panic since I didn't fix one of the filter oring correcrly in position and the Mini wont start, the answer was in the comments.Thanks angain!
Thank you for this and all of your videos. I followed your video, step by step, and no issues changing my fuel filter. Thank you!
Excellent video, thanks for making it. I just got done changing my fuel filter and it was much easier going thanks to your video.
im doing this ritnow … just waiting for the filter gets to the store was special order … hopefully everything works good 😊
Thank you for the video I was able to replace my mini Cooper r50 fuel filter.
Thank you for the videos
I change my filter for 30min on my r50 mini one
It looks it never been changed
I wasn't able to put back the lid because of the gasket which need first to be put on the tank and not on the white part. It's not explained on differents tutorials accross the web. It was beginning to seriously annoy me.
So thanks a lot for this great video !
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for such high quality reviews and for your passion. I wish you good luck. cheers
Nice! Another successful job completed, thanks to Mod Mini !
Thanks for making this, would be a tricky job without it👍
Thanks a lot mate. Managed to replace mine over the weekend. Great video!!
Hi really detailed video, I've just done mine after watching this , what's the best way to bleed it mine started then cut out ?
Thank you very much I really enjoy you videos the are very informative and detailed
was satisfying seeing that filter housing cleaned with air lol
Great how to video, but need to mention that the battery should be disconnected before removing either of the seats and left disconnected until all back together correctly, other wise the seat air bags being disconnected will trigger the dash air bag light that then needs to be reset at a cost.
That is correct, if you don't have a BMW scanner, but there is no need to remove seats to do this filter job. They were already out of the car for other reason.
So I popped my cover and discovered a wet assembly. I had been smelling fuel for a bit so I was happy I’d found it. What I discovered was a cracked lid where the high pressure line is attached. My question is I would like to just replace the top. Is this advisable? It appears the rest of the housing is fine and of course all the o rings and the filter are brand new.
Best video for diy mechanic
Great video! I just did a fuel filter change on my car the other day and now it won’t start. The fuel pump sounds like its priming and fuel is being pushed up through the fuel filter housing when I primed the car with the hose off (messy).
However when i disconnected the main fuel line going to the rails and put the ignition to pos “2”, a couple of times, there were no fuel going there. Was I missing any steps ?
Double check the seals
@@ModMINI thanks mate, coincidentally, my fuel pump gave out at the same time. Had that replaced and she’s up and running again! Keep the great videos coming!
I put clean engine oil in the hole on both sides of the hole in the fuel filter and it slipped right in without pushing very hard. This will also prevent the o-rings from sliding off. This sounds gross, but put oil on your pinky finger and lube up the hole
thank you for taking the time to post this and other videod they are excellent
Amazing as always! Thanks a lot for all the videos, it worked like a charm! And without the video, we would have broken a few parts for sure!
Aaaaaand, I missed that note with the lube or silicone when putting it back together. And guess what happened: it ripped into pieces and fuel leaked out. Well, at least I get to do it once more.
Safety tips for working on fuel tank in an enclosed space....Disconnect battery, Open all doors/windows, Do not smoke and DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC POWER TOOL AS THEY COULD IGNITE FUEL VAPOURS FROM ELECTRICAL SPARKS !!!!!
Great Video, I just had a P2096 code pop up. I think it may be the fuel filter. It has been making kind of a diaphragm noise when it starts in the morning. Do you think I might need to replace that entire unit? Not sure what a pressure regulator noise sounds like. It definitely comes from the passenger side.
Excellent video. I successfully replaced the fuel filter in my 2006 R52. Had a few issues along the way. First I did not properly put the lid on the canister. This resulted with no gas getting to engine. Once fixed, I drove to the gas station to fill up. This time a little gas leaked and spilled on the ground. Drive home and repositioned the seal about the canister. All is good now except the gasoline smell in the car. Luckily it’s a convertible. Any suggestion how to remove the smell?
Can we just depressurize the fuel line by pulling the fuel pump relay and turning the engine over a few times ??
How long do u need to change the fuel filter thanks you so much for videos help me lots
How long the job should take varies dramatically based on available tools, prior experience and aptitude for tinkering. But it shouldn't take long at all.
👇 I used a flat screw driver to turn the valve cap. Then I use my 45° neddlenose to push valve open😎
U should make a video about replacing a fuel pump. Btw, you make useful and amazing videos. Keep up with the videos
Only ever had to replace a fuel pump once on these cars.
Mods MINI i dont know if i should buy a 900$ 2005 mini cooper s that has 200,000 miles and needs a new fuel pump and needs new suspension and control arms on rear left of the car because it was in a wreck. Or should i just get a 2005 mini cooper s with just 70,000 miles and will be 3,500$
That cost 3,500$
Excellent video.. 👍🏻. Thanks for sharing that part of the maintenance of a MC.
Your sarcastic while mellow haha strange* your like that guy from that Visine commercial "Ben Stein" awesome videos keep it up Ben*
Could you make a video about replacing the fuel filter housing? I ran into a problem with the fuel line connection, if you post a video about how to replace the whole housing, that would be helpful!
I've never had to replace the entire housing.
@@ModMINI do you know what I would need to disconnect? I’ve never done it on a mini before.
I have a Mini Cooper 2001 (R50). For some reason I have a different type of fuel filter from what you have. Mine is one of the hard metal encased filters where I can't get access to the card filter. Is that something you've come across before? I can't seem to find a suitable encased fuel filter online anywhere...
The 2001 and early 2002 have metal canister filters. They are hard to find. I believe the entire housing needs to be replace for those. Might need to check with a dealer (most will ship parts if there is not a dealer near you).
i had metal filter, and bought a used one filter housing, of new type, with this filter. not metal
Hi i replaced fuel filter on my 04 Cooper yesterday and now car takes 3 trys to start it hesitates and fuel gauge reads completly wrong
Torn or missing o-ring/seal or you dislodged a tube going to the fuel pump on the other side.
Just finished installing the new fuel filter on my MCS 2009. Same exact procedure, but was baffled a bit on the 2nd large ring that came with the kit for a while. Thanks for the installation video was very helpful. What would you recommend on the next fuel filter change 20k or 30k?
Good to hear it's mostly the same procedure.
I think these filters are good for 60K or more.
Any idea what part number is needed for a new fuel sending unit housing ? Mine has a crack . 2005 mini cooper base model . Current unit says r52 will any of the r50 r52 r 53 caps work ?
@modmini: Thanks for a great video! Where can you buy this "turkey baster type tool"?
Thanks for uploading I just used your video as a reference and got mine done! As well as check my crank pulley. Really appreciate your uploads 👍
First, let me say that I love Mod MINI's videos. They are excellent.
But I do have (what I believe is) an important comment on this video. I don't think the guessed purpose of the two gaskets in the kit, as stated in the video, is correct. While I have the OEM fuel filter kit, rather than the Vaico kit installed in this video, I can tell you that one of the two gaskets in the OEM kit is marked "Diesel Only". That is, the fuel filter kit is a universal kit for either diesel or gasoline applications (there is a diesel MINI in Europe). In the US where only gasoline MINIs were sold, use the gasket that is not marked "Diesel Only".
I presume the Vaico kit includes two gaskets for the same reason. Can anyone confirm?
Hello Mr... I just did it but now engine doesn’t starts... any suggestions?... thanks and your videos are the best ones...
Check all o-ring placement.
Mod MINI oh yeah... that was the problem.... an O-Ring were broken during installing the filter... thanks
Awesome. Thanks from sunny Queensland :)
So I'm sitting here in my car waiting for the tow truck. Car was running fine and all of a sudden it sputtered and it wouldn't accelerate and basically shut down while driving. I pulled over and started it up again and drove fine for a few but lost power as soon as I hit 55 mph and shut off again, did this about 5 more times. Finally it shut down and doesn't start now. At least i have a good signal so I'm able to watch your videos. Breaking my head over this.
+Carlos Cofresi Could be anything. Bad fuel pump or a bad sensor - crankshaft position sensors go bad sometimes. Hope there is a Check Engine Light so you can read a code. Good luck figuring it out.
+Mod MINI thanks
@@carloscofresi7366 I'm having the same issue with my mini right now. What ended up being wrong? Thank you.
Great tutorial very informative
So I changed the filter no problem. Read the comments and made sure no loose o-rings (for pressure) now car won't start or turn over. There is a humming of the fuel pump. Thoughts?
I waited a couple hours after installation. The car struggled to start but now it shakes and then dies. By the way this is on a 2005 Cooper S.
MJO23DAN Did the problem start when you changed fuel filter? The only issue I know that would cause a problem is a loose/torn o-ring or damaged housing.
+Mod MINI car was running fine before the change. There are no damaged o-rings. I have checked it at least 4 times now and everything is where it's supposed to be.
MJO23DAN Check fuel pressure at fuel rail schrader valve. It should be around 50PSI. Other than that, maybe dirt got into fuel injectors if you did not mop up old fuel. Or, fuel pump was disturbed somehow and has eaten some dirt.
+Mod MINI don't have a gauge to test. I'm gonna have to bring it into a shop to test the fuel system. I did exactly what you have described in the DIY and discarded old fuel. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't fail on me. Sounds like an expensive job.
this helped me. good channel sir!
Omg this videos are golden, thanks mate!
drills spark internally when used. prob a good idea to not have that thing close to an open gas tank.
My silver rings were rusty as hell. Replaced with original new parts, dirt cheap too!
Suggestion: A little SilGlyde on the O-rings and seals.
Garth Goldberg Yup, or even just a bit of clean motor oil, anything to make them slippery. Never install a dry o-ring.
+Mod MINI ...I think you need to go back and edit your video and add a section to lube the O-rings...that would have been very helpful. I may have messed something else up trying to get all this together.
+kaycamcas1 I'll add an annotation. It is not possible to edit a video on TH-cam without deleting and uploading a new one.
Where can I find the two small O'rings inside of the 2003 R53 Mini S filter housing head where the fuel line clips into after the outer steel ring is replaced. Mine came out and was split in half. One was bronze and the other was yellow.
Thanks, again, Mod.
Nice video thank you. Was very helpful bud
Should there be fuel on the top of my fuel filter housing or do I need to get a new one?
Great video, it made my job easy
Will removing the gas cap relieve the pressure? Thanks
No, this is pressure from the fuel pump.
Probably a rookie error on my part but I would have a just used a Sharpie to mark the filter ring against the body. It didn't even occur to me that grinding a 3" gouge in the bodywork, right down to bare metal, with a large screwdriver and lump hammer was the proper way to do it.
You are welcome for the pro tip.
Im curious to know what if i dont depressurize my fuel line what would happen
Also, i came to this video because im certain my fuel pump went out on me and im looking to change my filter alongside my pump,
If theres no fuel because the pump died do i still nred to depressurize?
I didn’t replace the 2 small o rings and it doesn’t want to start LOL. I think I messed up the big thin oring I opened and it is ripped. I ordeded a new kit tomorrow hopefully it starts I feel like it leaking internally because of the o rings are only one time use
I have a problem on my 2005 mini cooper s where the fuel level is stuck on full. Do these have 1 level sensor or 2?
+Lozza P Only one level sensor. The level sensor is built into the fuel pump. Fuel pump is in the tank on the left side of car.
Mod MINI hi...i have the same problem with the fuel gauge stuck...do you know where the sender unit is? Can I access the sender from the fuel filter as stated in your video? I have a 2002 mini..ime in the uk and would appreciate your help
how many times did he back into that garage door. take a look at it
YOU NEED TO FILL THE FUEL TANK RIGHT UP AFTER A FILTER CHANGE TO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO LEAKS FROM THE RUBBER SEAL.ONCE EVERYTHING IS BACK TOGETHER THIS CAN LEAK WITHOUT YOU EVER KNOWING ABOUT IT ESPECIALLY IF YOU NEVER BRIM THE TANK.
leak = smell
Have you tried the Bosch 72223WS filters on the R53? Trying to decide if buying the $8 filter will work.
That seems a little cheap for a fuel filter.
Cool..When you gonna post new video replacing fuel pump?
+fmesj When someone asks me to replace one?
@@ModMINI I noticed you used a Vaico filter...is that a quality part? I have read that some brands claiming to be OEM replacements have improper rubber gasket sizes. Additionally, I am having a difficult time choosing a replacement fuel pump. Ebay has very cheap ones and Amazon boasts about POWERCO fuel pumps which are American made. I was leaning toward the latter or an Airtec? Any recommendations ? I own a 2003 mini S R53/W11