I’m 2 minutes into the video and I’m fully expecting to see Ryan crawl out from under the car complaining about having to change the oil on this car too lol
Spark plugs are every 3 years/37K miles. I did mine at 4 years/30K and it made a noticeable difference in idle and on the top end. The plenum has to come off from the sides to access the coils. There are screws by each throttle body. You may need a special coil puller as well. Thank you for the great content, staying tuned for more crazy!
Why? The oil is down in the pan, oil filter is up top. Shouldn't make much difference, unless you refer to the time spent draining the oil first which might allow a little more oil to drain out of the filter before you get to it. But having said that, I usually drain oil first and change filter second on all the vehicles I work on, even on my dad's previous Tacoma which had the filter accessible from above.
Oil filter and filter housing keep a lot of oil in them when you don't loosen the filter before draining. I also do this last BUT I loosen the cap all the way to prevent any oil staying behind in the filter.
If you loosen the filter housing and then drain the oil it allows the oil to drain out of the filter also. I am sure the effectiveness varies from car to car but it has always worked well for me. I am not 100% sure why it works but I think it has to do with the pressure and volume.
Just a tip, when I change the oil filter in my e46 zhp I loosen the filter cover first and basically unscrew it completely then leave it so any accumulated oil in the grooves or in the filter will drain into the housing
Drain the oil from the sump first and then do the filter. The oil will drain out of the filter housing as you drain the sump so no mess later on when lifting out the old filter.
Very cool process video Matt! One thing I have added to my process is I always put oil in the oil filter reservoir. i’m trying to reduce the time of my motor running dry on that first start. I also ensure that the gasket is lubed prior to putting on the lid. Thanks for the video! 👊🏼
Good idea to change those o-rings each oil change. They get hard over time from heat and then you will have an oil leak at the filter. I heard the click when you torqued the drain plugs to 18 ft-lbs.
I just bought an M3 (my first ever M car) with 150,000 km (93,000 miles) on the odometer. Going to do my rod bearings this month because it's making me lose sleep. Love the car though!
Always enjoy watching the videos Matt, keep up the great content!! I suggest you getting some cans of brake cleaner from the auto parts store when doing the oil changes so you can clean off the mess from the filter housing and the area around the drain plug, that’s what we used when I used to work as a technician at GM!!
Not sure why I watched this considering I've done several oil changes on my M3 haha...but I'll tell you BMW recommends spark plug changes at 40k miles.
its not an urban legend. i had my rodbearings change at 118.000 km,the old bearings showed wear all the way to the copper,luckely the rod bearings didnt damage the crankshaft. ita better to change them every 100.000 km. your car is almost brand new,so the bearings should be good.have fun driving your m3!
I agree I had 107,000 miles on the cars original bearings. I never really revved the engine too hard because of th of the issue being in the back of my mind. I did the job and the engine ran much smoother. Many of my bearings were also worn past the outer layer. The car feels much better to drive when you can just rev the engine without worry.
My Audi S3 had the dealership's plateframe with m6 12mm screws. This was the first car I've had to bother with precise spec'd screw for a plateframe lol. So now I have the 8mm length in stainless steel (no plateframe). All screws at the same angle :P
The same so called none issue with the timing chain on the B6/B7 S4, it was less than 1% of all the V8's that came across an issue. Yet I always got be careful the timing chain will fail. Don't worry about it. Just have the oil analyzed from time to time and it will tell you of a pending issue.
Every couple of oil changes, just send your oil to Blackstone to have an oil test done. If they start to find the particulates in the oil from the bearings, you will know that they are wearing pre-maturely. It's the easiest way to know if it's an issue you have to deal with, or not.
I am having the same problem with my wheels. They started chipping after taking it thru the car wash. I paid for the premium service which included tire cleaning. I am not sure what brushes , if any were used to clean the tires. I meet another one of their client’s that had a similar experience.
I hear you on the dealer thing--not a chance their going to drive mine around AT ALL. But I get a reading way faster than that, still it's a flaw not to have a regular darn dipstick but I've gotten used to it it's not a big deal. I get a reading after about 180 deg. oil temp on level ground, or about 10 minutes.
In my experience here in the U.K. manual/labour car washes that use too much acid in their foaming solutions usually causes the coating on alloys to deteriorate quickly especially when the queue is longer than normal and the solution is left on the wheels and lower sections of your panels for longer than it should be. A reminder that cheaper is certainly not better when looking after your prized motor. DIY in my opinion
This engine has like a semi-dry sump. Oil pan holds a part of the oil and the rest goes to a reservoir next to it where the pump is. so one bolt for pan and one for the reservoir. hope this clarifies
Why not just send an oil sample in to blackstone or another testing lab? They will be able to detect premature rod bearing wear via abnormal levels of lead present in the sample. Given that such a strong indicator exists, why not measure it?
There is actually alot of data on why they fail. BMW went with a non standard bearing spec. Engine builders and the makers of the bearing itself agree that BMW spec'd it too tight which adding variances in manufacturing, if you get an engine on the tighter side of tolerances, the engine will be at greater risk of throwing a rod. BE bearings makes a bearing that fixes the clearance problem and follows what engine builders and bearing manufactures recommend for a bearing spec, this has the best chance of fixing the problem short of a full rebuild. Read more about it here, there is a lot of factual data and measurements taken to prove the factory bearings aren't made to last more than warranty period. bebearings.com/Overview.html
How much would a Shop charge for this oil job? And the rod bearings would you do it or a shop? *I definitely think you have the know how and tools. Please try for us
...yup, if you have over 1,000 posts on any car forum you are the equivalent of an ASE certified mechanic and philosopher. Rod bearings on the E92M hold the same mystic powers as the famous E36M3 oil pump nut that would fly off and down a small aircraft.
He's probably just going by BMW's recommendation from the factory, which is Castrol in the owners manual. Not to mention the forums swear by Castrol TWS.
What part of Florida do you live? I follow @ShiftedPerspective and he was filming with a guy that has a supercharged M3 a couples miles away from my neighborhood!! Amazing!! I don’t mean to make you read a whole essay but basically I’m planning on getting an 08 E92 M3 (6 speed manual of course) in a couple months and I’m looking for people to do videos with about the M3, hopefully one day we can get our M3’s together and make something happen. Love your M3 by the way 💯✊🏽
E93 M3 rod bearings failed after 100 000 kms ... requiring new engine. Later replaced them pre-emptively at around 200 000 kms .. according to techs, they were showing excessive wear at that point.
Look into liquimoly Matt. It’s much better than the Castrol 10W60. Just a suggestion... Great video. Your M3 will be sick after it’s OG detailed. We are all waiting patiently..
Honestly at this point how different can these two top notch and recommended oils be? I don’t think you can make a mistake going with either. I used liquimoly in my e46 m3 because bav auto has the best deal in existence. Suuuuper cheap oil change kit. Bavauto.com if you’re interested.
Being ‘Obsessed’ Garage, I would expect an OEM oil filter to be used. Especially for an M3. The OEM filter is only marginally more expensive than non-OEM ones!!
You could have done the blackstone analysis just to stop the comments about rod bearings haha, it's a nice piece of mind aswell, I doubt that car wasn't properly treated with the condition it is in though and the mileage it has
What is that going to tell me without a base line analysis? It's like doing a dyno on your car. It tells you nothing unless you dyno it before and after changes.
rod bearings are a hit or miss, i have the 2006 e46 m3 151K miles, ive put on 50k hard miles on it and 2011 E90 M3 put on 30k miles on it , absolutely redline the thing everyday. Its a hit or miss at this point.
Experienced opinion here; mileage does not mean the rod bearings are in good shape. I work closely with Evolve Automotive in the UK and honestly, there are cars in every week for rod bearings and I've seen 30k miles cars with significant wear, primarily due to the thick oil (many ditch this) and driving hard from cold. WIth people leasing/financing cars these days, they usually know they wont have the car for long, so tend to be harder on the car IMO. My advice would be to do an oil analysis at the least (not 100% accurate as you mention) and do the bearings when you can. They are recommended when supercharging anyway. Also FYI, the Eventuri pictures you were showing in your other video were taken by me for Eventuri. If you would like an Eventuri product, get in touch and I'll make sure you get looked after brother. :)
Bought my E92 M3 new and used Castrol. Since that new brand by chevron twin turbo my car doesn’t feel as strong and powerful compared to Castro’s so I stuck with Castrol
8.8 liters or 9.3 Quarts of the finest oil... this car is thirsty and high maintenance. People say Motul is the best oil in the world. The car looks brand new from underneath.
oil analysis doesn't do any good with the 2010+ models. bmw switched from the lead bearings to a tin/aluminum combo for the LCI cars. oil analysis is worthless unless you're trying to measure oil life. plugs interval is 37k, but shorter is better.
its absolutely not a fallacy and can happen at any mileage (see links bellow). The issue is not with the rod bearings themselves but with the tolerances between the bearing and the crank. It's too tight, especially with the wide range of oil viscosity the S65 uses. When the oil is thick (cold engine), there's not nearly enough oil passing through and you end up with extreme premature wear. Again, the bearings themselves are fine, just the tolerances are too tight. That is why it is a ticking time bomb and apart from doing a blackstone oil analysis, you won't have a good indication of when the bearings will let go. Its best to do it now before you have catastrophic engine failure. I'll link a few posts from MRF's Instagram page: instagram.com/p/Bju5M47FZs7/?taken-by=mrf_engineering instagram.com/p/Bju5M47FZs7/?taken-by=mrf_engineering These are the bearings MRF uses to compensate for the lack of proper clearance: instagram.com/p/BZEb0TrlI3D/?taken-by=mrf_engineering
So if the bearing clearances are so tight, why is 10w-60 oil used? As I understand it, modern engines with tighter bearing clearances are the reasons for newer, thinner oils like 5w-20. Also, if cold start is an issue, a 0w oil would help protect at those "cold" engine temperatures below ~100F. Maybe 0w-40 could be used? Otherwise I would try a 5w-60 oil if 60 weight at operating temperature really is a must.
We just don't know exactly the issue. Going by the clearance argument would mean that we would see more RB failures in northern states and less in southern warm states. But according to failure data the forums has collected, climate doesn't seem to be a factor.
I was referring more to the "60" part of the equation, the oil's viscosity at operating temperature, which is the same regardless of climate. For example 90's Hondas called for 5w-30 oil, or 10w-30 could be used in warmer climates (I use 0w-30 which didn't exist in the 90's). But as Honda moved into the 2000's and started making tighter bearing clearances on their engines, they switched the recommended oil to 5w-20. And likewise my company's Ford Fusion Hybrid specifies 5w-20 oil, due to the oil being thinner at operating temperature, which allows it to get into the tighter bearing clearances in the engine. So on these BMW engines, if they also have tight bearing clearances, why would they specify 10w-60? Seems like it would flow like syrup, relatively speaking, at operating temperature whereas as 20 or 30 weight oil would flow much easier. Although if the oil is too thin it won't build up enough oil pressure.
Maybe it’s the rod bearings that cause BMW’s to catch fire and burn to the ground? Perhaps you should pull that hamster wheel out, and drop a blown LS in it!!
Are you sure the consensus/evidence hasn't changed since you last investigated it in depth? I don't mean to sound rude, and maybe there's something I've missed that suggests there's no issue recently I just know the consensus has changed over time, if youre confident youre up to date and your conclusion was based on data from the last few years then say no more, I can respect that, just felt worth mentioning by most accounts we know what the issue is, driving habits can exacerbate it but it's a fatal design flaw regardless of the statistics, the clearances and oil passage design in general were poorly done. thats why coated bearings aren't a thing anymore, what we know has changed. I agree that people spouting out what they've heard like a parrot is no help, i do trust the people at PCA & BMW CCA though. that said people used to acct like the IMS shaft issues were BS/HYPE as well. Yes the rates may be single digits, but I won't let a well documented clearance deficit lead to rod bearing failure that costs me exponentially more than it would take to set her right, it's just too easy/cheap to ignore now. It's harder to get oil analysis reading on the 2011+ but contrary to another forum myth they didn't address the issue in 2011s, just made a material change that arguably makes it harder for effected owners. I definitely feel bad for people who thought they were addressing the problem early on with coated bearings, before it was clear that they're likely increasing the chance of failure and at best wasted their money. Its definitely given too much attention & made to be a reason not to buy which is BS, if you are concerned replace them if not best of luck, but don't pretend you didn't buy this car because of the rod bearing, people.
Your hood comes black underneath from factory. Also check out this link, europeanautosource.com/blog/a-wolf-in-sheep-s-clothing-e90-m3-vf620-supercharger-installation-photos-videos-dyno.html
So, oil change every 5k miles means no more oil changes since the car will be sold before the next interval 😀
Ha, ha.... I wouldn't rule that out.
You were right lol
I’m 2 minutes into the video and I’m fully expecting to see Ryan crawl out from under the car complaining about having to change the oil on this car too lol
Love how clean and organized you have your shop, maybe you can help Tavarish be organize and become Obsessed!
Spark plugs are every 3 years/37K miles. I did mine at 4 years/30K and it made a noticeable difference in idle and on the top end. The plenum has to come off from the sides to access the coils. There are screws by each throttle body. You may need a special coil puller as well. Thank you for the great content, staying tuned for more crazy!
"stay tuned for more crazy" - least crazy person on the planet
Love the video. Can't wait for new wheels
Oh and awesome garage! Love that you have a stereo in the place too!
Draining the oil before removing the oil filter is much less messy.
Why? The oil is down in the pan, oil filter is up top. Shouldn't make much difference, unless you refer to the time spent draining the oil first which might allow a little more oil to drain out of the filter before you get to it. But having said that, I usually drain oil first and change filter second on all the vehicles I work on, even on my dad's previous Tacoma which had the filter accessible from above.
Oil filter and filter housing keep a lot of oil in them when you don't loosen the filter before draining. I also do this last BUT I loosen the cap all the way to prevent any oil staying behind in the filter.
Yeah I also loosen it first just didn't mention it.
If you loosen the filter housing and then drain the oil it allows the oil to drain out of the filter also. I am sure the effectiveness varies from car to car but it has always worked well for me. I am not 100% sure why it works but I think it has to do with the pressure and volume.
For the next change, switch over to Liqui-moly or Motul oil 👌🏻
Welcome back to the BMW world 👍🏻
The m3 rod bearing problem is very rare incident. There are maybe 2% .
One of the best oil changing video on TH-cam.
Just a tip, when I change the oil filter in my e46 zhp I loosen the filter cover first and basically unscrew it completely then leave it so any accumulated oil in the grooves or in the filter will drain into the housing
Smart. I'm adding that to the procedure.
Another zhp owner. What are the specs Scott?
Drain the oil from the sump first and then do the filter. The oil will drain out of the filter housing as you drain the sump so no mess later on when lifting out the old filter.
But like a pressure valve u screw the filter cap for better oil flow/drain
Ah...good idea.
@@bestariel._.yuh029wrong, you actually want it vented
YES!!! Rod bearings. Tears. Love it dude! Another great vid.
Very cool process video Matt! One thing I have added to my process is I always put oil in the oil filter reservoir. i’m trying to reduce the time of my motor running dry on that first start. I also ensure that the gasket is lubed prior to putting on the lid. Thanks for the video! 👊🏼
Try “Tub of Towels” for wiping up spills and cleaning your hands instead of kitchen paper...
Funny, I have them. I've been talking to them about making an OG branded version.
Obsessed Garage i use blue monster towels and they’re amazing
Good idea to change those o-rings each oil change. They get hard over time from heat and then you will have an oil leak at the filter. I heard the click when you torqued the drain plugs to 18 ft-lbs.
I just bought an M3 (my first ever M car) with 150,000 km (93,000 miles) on the odometer. Going to do my rod bearings this month because it's making me lose sleep. Love the car though!
Always enjoy watching the videos Matt, keep up the great content!! I suggest you getting some cans of brake cleaner from the auto parts store when doing the oil changes so you can clean off the mess from the filter housing and the area around the drain plug, that’s what we used when I used to work as a technician at GM!!
That's a good idea.
Have you done a video on the O2 sensor replacement? That will be my next project
Thanks man, great video. Appreciate your candid commentary.
Not sure why I watched this considering I've done several oil changes on my M3 haha...but I'll tell you BMW recommends spark plug changes at 40k miles.
Shifted Perspective heeey bud I love your channel. I was thinking the same thing as you. I’ve already done oil changes on mine too haha
Shifted Perspective I believe the service manual actually specifies every 37k
its not an urban legend. i had my rodbearings change at 118.000 km,the old bearings showed wear all the way to the copper,luckely the rod bearings didnt damage the crankshaft. ita better to change them every 100.000 km. your car is almost brand new,so the bearings should be good.have fun driving your m3!
I agree I had 107,000 miles on the cars original bearings. I never really revved the engine too hard because of th of the issue being in the back of my mind. I did the job and the engine ran much smoother. Many of my bearings were also worn past the outer layer. The car feels much better to drive when you can just rev the engine without worry.
Out of curiosity, what is the viscosity of the oil you're using?
10w-60 castrol tws,the same oilhe uses in the video.
Great video man very informative. Im buying two different bmw projects in the upcoming months and im super hype to learn how to keep em pristine.
Pour the oil with the angled side of the bottle pointing to the ground. Makes less of a mess.
lol @ the calibrated wrist. I have a calibrated elbow - works every time like a charm for the low torque stuff.
I need to get me one of those perfectly Made in USA calibrated wrist!
Boom!
I wish more cars setup the oil filter like BMW!!!
My lemans blue e90 had black primered under bonnet (hood for yall)
An easy to reach oil filter....very convenient...didn't know about that
My Audi S3 had the dealership's plateframe with m6 12mm screws. This was the first car I've had to bother with precise spec'd screw for a plateframe lol. So now I have the 8mm length in stainless steel (no plateframe). All screws at the same angle :P
and yes you need to replace theese o rings ! over time from change to change they harden out ! and if you would twist them back in they would break.
The same so called none issue with the timing chain on the B6/B7 S4, it was less than 1% of all the V8's that came across an issue. Yet I always got be careful the timing chain will fail. Don't worry about it. Just have the oil analyzed from time to time and it will tell you of a pending issue.
Bingo!
Matt, these wheels are perfect for this car. Have them refurbished and they’ll like new again!
Every couple of oil changes, just send your oil to Blackstone to have an oil test done. If they start to find the particulates in the oil from the bearings, you will know that they are wearing pre-maturely. It's the easiest way to know if it's an issue you have to deal with, or not.
Won't work on 2013 with aluminum rod bearings.
Nicely done very informative Good luck And enjoy your M3
I chose to watch this over Doug’s gt2RS!
I am having the same problem with my wheels. They started chipping after taking it thru the car wash. I paid for the premium service which included tire cleaning. I am not sure what brushes , if any were used to clean the tires. I meet another one of their client’s that had a similar experience.
yet another reason to avoid automatic car washes like the plague!
spark plugs anywhere between 25k and 30k miles for replacements fairly easy to do the drivers rear plug is a pain....
I hear you on the dealer thing--not a chance their going to drive mine around AT ALL. But I get a reading way faster than that, still it's a flaw not to have a regular darn dipstick but I've gotten used to it it's not a big deal. I get a reading after about 180 deg. oil temp on level ground, or about 10 minutes.
That engine bay is so sexy. I was surprised you used Mann filter instead of OE Mahle/BMW
Matt’s using the new Germany Torque value goodintight.
In my experience here in the U.K. manual/labour car washes that use too much acid in their foaming solutions usually causes the coating on alloys to deteriorate quickly especially when the queue is longer than normal and the solution is left on the wheels and lower sections of your panels for longer than it should be. A reminder that cheaper is certainly not better when looking after your prized motor. DIY in my opinion
Appreciate 1 ltr bottles are easy to handle but in
UK it’s much cheaper to buy 5 ltr jugs - are they not available in US?
We must calibrated our wrist at the same place:) Keep up the great work.
HI what is the Brand for Jack
the hood is painted oem is one solid color
You’re definitely my idol man. Owning the dream cars and keeping the clean af. Can I know what you do for a living?
You are looking at it. Obsessed Garage has become my business.
Why does the E92 have 2 drain bolts? What's the advantage of this.
have to look at the engine diagram to really understand or go on the forums
This engine has like a semi-dry sump. Oil pan holds a part of the oil and the rest goes to a reservoir next to it where the pump is. so one bolt for pan and one for the reservoir. hope this clarifies
“Perfectly Calibrated” shirt with a socket wrench graphic??
Why not just send an oil sample in to blackstone or another testing lab? They will be able to detect premature rod bearing wear via abnormal levels of lead present in the sample. Given that such a strong indicator exists, why not measure it?
Question: Why do you need to use those jacking blocks? Doesn't the car already have that black thingy sticking out at the bottom?
Great video as per usual
Funny, I use the wrist torque calibration method too. Works great.
My e46 m3 wheel paint it also chipping off. Looks super ugly. Can’t wait for you to find me a solution ;)
There is actually alot of data on why they fail. BMW went with a non standard bearing spec. Engine builders and the makers of the bearing itself agree that BMW spec'd it too tight which adding variances in manufacturing, if you get an engine on the tighter side of tolerances, the engine will be at greater risk of throwing a rod.
BE bearings makes a bearing that fixes the clearance problem and follows what engine builders and bearing manufactures recommend for a bearing spec, this has the best chance of fixing the problem short of a full rebuild.
Read more about it here, there is a lot of factual data and measurements taken to prove the factory bearings aren't made to last more than warranty period.
bebearings.com/Overview.html
Exactly, had to laugh when he says no one knows why the fail. 😂 It's been extensively researched and tested by BE.
Thank you for saying this for us. Lost a s65 a year ago :(
Really nice car and good example
chips on wheels like that look like the ones you get when you take a car to drive through car wash lol
You are probably right about that one.
How much would a Shop charge for this oil job? And the rod bearings would you do it or a shop? *I definitely think you have the know how and tools. Please try for us
He says car guys like to pretend to know what they’re talking about for example “changing oil every 5k...” LOL 😂
Was that a Dinan hat I saw? Future tune?
Just lay some cardboard down when changing oil. Much easier and quicker to throw the cardboard out than lifting the tiles and cleaning the floor.
What is turkey baster ?
Matt have you considered doing an oil change kit from fcpeuro? Never have to pay for another oil change after the first one.
5:30 why is there two oil plugs?
...yup, if you have over 1,000 posts on any car forum you are the equivalent of an ASE certified mechanic and philosopher. Rod bearings on the E92M hold the same mystic powers as the famous E36M3 oil pump nut that would fly off and down a small aircraft.
Wearing the Dinan cap for the M3 oil change was intentional, wasn't it? Great to see a BMW back on the channel!
Sort of, that's the hat I wear when working under the car since it's black and already super dirty.
Is there a reason you use Castrol and not somethin like liquimoly or some niche oil brand?
He's probably just going by BMW's recommendation from the factory, which is Castrol in the owners manual. Not to mention the forums swear by Castrol TWS.
Yeah, that's it.
ryan02s2k ah ok I just got a 2017 mazda3 touring and they also recommend either their oem oil or Castrol as well
What part of Florida do you live? I follow @ShiftedPerspective and he was filming with a guy that has a supercharged M3 a couples miles away from my neighborhood!! Amazing!! I don’t mean to make you read a whole essay but basically I’m planning on getting an 08 E92 M3 (6 speed manual of course) in a couple months and I’m looking for people to do videos with about the M3, hopefully one day we can get our M3’s together and make something happen. Love your M3 by the way 💯✊🏽
E93 M3 rod bearings failed after 100 000 kms ... requiring new engine. Later replaced them pre-emptively at around 200 000 kms .. according to techs, they were showing excessive wear at that point.
Look into liquimoly Matt. It’s much better than the Castrol 10W60. Just a suggestion...
Great video. Your M3 will be sick after it’s OG detailed. We are all waiting patiently..
I've thought about that for this car.
LiquiMoly is top notch stuff.
or also Motul 10w60
Honestly at this point how different can these two top notch and recommended oils be? I don’t think you can make a mistake going with either. I used liquimoly in my e46 m3 because bav auto has the best deal in existence. Suuuuper cheap oil change kit. Bavauto.com if you’re interested.
I use Bmw twin power
Being ‘Obsessed’ Garage, I would expect an OEM oil filter to be used. Especially for an M3. The OEM filter is only marginally more expensive than non-OEM ones!!
This is just as good.
You could have done the blackstone analysis just to stop the comments about rod bearings haha, it's a nice piece of mind aswell, I doubt that car wasn't properly treated with the condition it is in though and the mileage it has
What is that going to tell me without a base line analysis? It's like doing a dyno on your car. It tells you nothing unless you dyno it before and after changes.
Akra evo exhaust plz
Make sure you change them Rod Bearings!... ( hehe )
What lift is that please?
Give a new tour of oghq
I will be very soon.
rod bearings are a hit or miss, i have the 2006 e46 m3 151K miles, ive put on 50k hard miles on it
and 2011 E90 M3 put on 30k miles on it
, absolutely redline the thing everyday. Its a hit or miss at this point.
you on originals? Same with me. I know e46s with 200k and all good. Tough one eh... Whats your plan?
Great vid! Thanks for sharing the wisdom! I try to do the same. Keep up the cool videos!
Thanks man.
Hate the digital dipstick’s on BMWs!
Do you not use Amsoil anymore?
Amsoil doesn't make a 10w-60, so that's the reason he went with castrol.
@@ryan02s2k aahh I see thanks Ryan.
What type of lift is that??
www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/lifts/products/twin-busch-tw-s3-19-double-scissor-lift
Experienced opinion here; mileage does not mean the rod bearings are in good shape. I work closely with Evolve Automotive in the UK and honestly, there are cars in every week for rod bearings and I've seen 30k miles cars with significant wear, primarily due to the thick oil (many ditch this) and driving hard from cold. WIth people leasing/financing cars these days, they usually know they wont have the car for long, so tend to be harder on the car IMO. My advice would be to do an oil analysis at the least (not 100% accurate as you mention) and do the bearings when you can. They are recommended when supercharging anyway. Also FYI, the Eventuri pictures you were showing in your other video were taken by me for Eventuri. If you would like an Eventuri product, get in touch and I'll make sure you get looked after brother. :)
So what oil they using for the e92 M3?
where ryan
Ha, ha... He was only good for one car this weekend.
My hood is painted!
Sir, do you like the Castrol brand or would you run Liquid Moly? I just now started running LM in mine. Thanks for your input sir.
running Liquid Moly in mine too! so far so good!
I work at an all Euro shop and we exclusively use Liqui Moly. Good stuff!
Bought my E92 M3 new and used Castrol. Since that new brand by chevron twin turbo my car doesn’t feel as strong and powerful compared to Castro’s so I stuck with Castrol
I will dig into it a bit more. That's not a bad idea.
Very surprised your not using Liqui Moly Oils as I know you like the best👍
What’s wrong with Castrol
have to be careful with exact oil spec on these
8.8 liters or 9.3 Quarts of the finest oil... this car is thirsty and high maintenance.
People say Motul is the best oil in the world.
The car looks brand new from underneath.
oil analysis doesn't do any good with the 2010+ models. bmw switched from the lead bearings to a tin/aluminum combo for the LCI cars. oil analysis is worthless unless you're trying to measure oil life. plugs interval is 37k, but shorter is better.
If the last 3 digits of the plate was E92 instead of E07, you might not have needed a personalized plate!
its absolutely not a fallacy and can happen at any mileage (see links bellow). The issue is not with the rod bearings themselves but with the tolerances between the bearing and the crank. It's too tight, especially with the wide range of oil viscosity the S65 uses. When the oil is thick (cold engine), there's not nearly enough oil passing through and you end up with extreme premature wear. Again, the bearings themselves are fine, just the tolerances are too tight. That is why it is a ticking time bomb and apart from doing a blackstone oil analysis, you won't have a good indication of when the bearings will let go. Its best to do it now before you have catastrophic engine failure.
I'll link a few posts from MRF's Instagram page:
instagram.com/p/Bju5M47FZs7/?taken-by=mrf_engineering
instagram.com/p/Bju5M47FZs7/?taken-by=mrf_engineering
These are the bearings MRF uses to compensate for the lack of proper clearance:
instagram.com/p/BZEb0TrlI3D/?taken-by=mrf_engineering
So if the bearing clearances are so tight, why is 10w-60 oil used? As I understand it, modern engines with tighter bearing clearances are the reasons for newer, thinner oils like 5w-20. Also, if cold start is an issue, a 0w oil would help protect at those "cold" engine temperatures below ~100F. Maybe 0w-40 could be used? Otherwise I would try a 5w-60 oil if 60 weight at operating temperature really is a must.
We just don't know exactly the issue. Going by the clearance argument would mean that we would see more RB failures in northern states and less in southern warm states. But according to failure data the forums has collected, climate doesn't seem to be a factor.
I was referring more to the "60" part of the equation, the oil's viscosity at operating temperature, which is the same regardless of climate. For example 90's Hondas called for 5w-30 oil, or 10w-30 could be used in warmer climates (I use 0w-30 which didn't exist in the 90's). But as Honda moved into the 2000's and started making tighter bearing clearances on their engines, they switched the recommended oil to 5w-20. And likewise my company's Ford Fusion Hybrid specifies 5w-20 oil, due to the oil being thinner at operating temperature, which allows it to get into the tighter bearing clearances in the engine. So on these BMW engines, if they also have tight bearing clearances, why would they specify 10w-60? Seems like it would flow like syrup, relatively speaking, at operating temperature whereas as 20 or 30 weight oil would flow much easier. Although if the oil is too thin it won't build up enough oil pressure.
To change your spark plugs it every 32k miles
..... owners man: on the 3rd oil change 45k miles 😂
Ha, ha... Got me...
My wrist is calibrated 😂👍
Maybe it’s the rod bearings that cause BMW’s to catch fire and burn to the ground? Perhaps you should pull that hamster wheel out, and drop a blown LS in it!!
You have a tool and a product for everything except for a torque wrench 🤣
Are you sure the consensus/evidence hasn't changed since you last investigated it in depth? I don't mean to sound rude, and maybe there's something I've missed that suggests there's no issue recently I just know the consensus has changed over time, if youre confident youre up to date and your conclusion was based on data from the last few years then say no more, I can respect that, just felt worth mentioning by most accounts we know what the issue is, driving habits can exacerbate it but it's a fatal design flaw regardless of the statistics, the clearances and oil passage design in general were poorly done. thats why coated bearings aren't a thing anymore, what we know has changed. I agree that people spouting out what they've heard like a parrot is no help, i do trust the people at PCA & BMW CCA though. that said people used to acct like the IMS shaft issues were BS/HYPE as well. Yes the rates may be single digits, but I won't let a well documented clearance deficit lead to rod bearing failure that costs me exponentially more than it would take to set her right, it's just too easy/cheap to ignore now. It's harder to get oil analysis reading on the 2011+ but contrary to another forum myth they didn't address the issue in 2011s, just made a material change that arguably makes it harder for effected owners. I definitely feel bad for people who thought they were addressing the problem early on with coated bearings, before it was clear that they're likely increasing the chance of failure and at best wasted their money. Its definitely given too much attention & made to be a reason not to buy which is BS, if you are concerned replace them if not best of luck, but don't pretend you didn't buy this car because of the rod bearing, people.
LMAO 5:20
WHAT?!? They recommend oil change every 15 000 miles?? I change my oil every 6200 miles = 10 000km.
Yeah, per the manual. I change it three times more often.
Wrist is dialed in ,🤣
shoulda went with liqui-moly ! german cars love it !
Your hood comes black underneath from factory. Also check out this link, europeanautosource.com/blog/a-wolf-in-sheep-s-clothing-e90-m3-vf620-supercharger-installation-photos-videos-dyno.html
Get rid of those continentals, worst tires I have ever had on my car. Michelin ftw
The rod bearing failure rate is not an over exaggeration. It’s real. Beware the throttle actuators, too. That’s why those cars depreciate greatly.
No to all of that.