Gotta say you are a top notch teacher. You are thorough, complete and methodical. I'll be looking at all your videos as I start to complete my Colin Archer ketch.
The pelican hook jig is a great idea Gary! Seeing it up close and your demonstration of it's use was so helpful. I'm going to use one of my pelican hooks off my "Emma" and build a jig. I'll need it for my "Annie" build. Glad to see you posting videos Gary. I always learn something new and unique.
Good to see you back on deck Gary. Great timing. I noticed that you had a new video as I was getting ready to take my Irene and Flyer out for their first time on the water together. Thanks again for for making this possible for us.
Thanks Gary! Again, more handy tips! Clear cut excellent videos! I don't build large RC models as I don't have space for them. However, smaller models, sporting your blocks, your sewing, your suggestions, all benefit from your ideas as I build mantlepiece models. Stay healthy Gary! I look forward to more of your videos! Rodney Vancouver Island Canada
Keep on educating us with your experience and explanations. I enjoy your videos and always look forward to the next one. My “Annie” should be looking like a boat over the winter!
Thank you for these excellent instructional videos. A wealth of info. I have your plans to build your Flyer when I retire, looking forward to that. Rob
Hi Gary, I am very impressed with your video on standing rigging. I am in the process of rigging a marblehead model yacht and I was interested in your pelican hook jig. Keep up the wonderful work you doing.
Love your videos (and plans) Gary. This is very helpful for me to see how you do the standing rigging, this settles a lot of questions I had in my mind. My yet unnamed Schooner built to the Irene plans is coming right along, hope to be sailing by this summer.
Thank you! This is very helpful for my Flyer build. I was getting rather stuck at this point! Do you use the same whipping twine for tying on the blocks? Flyer’s gaff block assembly gets very busy!
Thanks Gary love watching all your videos I’m about to start my first boat ( Emma ) which I hope to call Muriel Rose after my gran my daughter got me the plans will be watching videos over and over I’m sure Thanks again
Thanks Garry, I love your your videos , they are great at explaining your ideas and methods. in a way that we can all understand and use. I am just starting my adventure into rc sailing and have Irene all kitted up ready to start assembly. I also love the pelican hook jig, and will certainly be making one myself. At this stage, my only question is how do you finish the outside of your hulls under the paintwork, do you rely on the penetrating epoxy or do you use a glass matting to add strength to them? Thankyou in advance for any time you might give to respond to my question. Happy sailing, Andrew
Thanks for asking Andrew, some folks do use a layer of fiberglass cloth. I have no objection to that but I simply rely on the penetrating epoxy to seal the plywood (and wood) inside & out. Lots of options for paint, but I like oil based enamels, brushed on. Here's what I do. Inside the hull I paint with 1 coat of oil based undercoater followed by 2 coats of oil based enamel. Outside of the hull I build up a base of oil based enamel undercoater, sanded between coats with 220 grit, until the surface is as smooth as I want it to be. Probably 3 or 4 coats. I don't seek perfection, but achieve maybe "90%". Finally I paint with 2 or 3 coats of oil based enamel, sanded lightly between coats with 320 grit. This is the protective layer. Add trim stripes or "bottom paint" color over the protective enamel. Spray can paints ok for the trim. Cheers !
A wooden block is glued to the bottom of the hull, inside the hull at the location of the rudder. This block stands tall enough to extend above the water line. A hole is drilled thru this block for the rudder stock. Water will not rise (much) above the water line so the upper end of rudder stock is high and dry inside the hull. Cheers !
Rather than stainless I found copper wire 12 gage more flexible, easier to work, for all my rigging needs. Popsicle sticks are handier for making the rigging blocks, just a dash of super glue and minor sanding, they take well to stain and sealer. One more idea, rather than pinning the hatches down, use the small magnets and a metal plate to keep them down. H/F has them but I guess any craft store would also.
Thanks for asking, Yes plans for 'FLYER' are available. PRINTED PAPER PLANS for Bearospace boats are available from Flying Models: store.flying-models.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35_36 PDF PLANS for Bearospace boats are available from Bearospace Industries: www.bearospaceindustries.com/boats2.html
You don't need a pelican hook or Aluminum tube , All that is required piece of plastic a bit larger then the line you using. What you do is put the shroud or line that coming down from the mast, putting through two hole making the line push the piece of plastic in a direction, all about 1/4 the length of the line, then pull on the line through the hole or loop at the deck, then put the line through the other two holes, the coming up needs to go through the most farthest away from the line to make the jamming system/ adjusting line system. this to get read of weight on the boat .
Interesting. I build more modern RC designs. I make my rigging from 1/32" stainless aircraft cable. I turn the end fittings from 316 stainless steel rod on my lathe and mill in slots as needed. I silver solder the wire into the fittings. To adjust the stays and shrouds I machine 316 stainless turnbuckles to scale. The stays and shrouds are attached to the mast with stainless fittings and #80 screws and I make stainless chain plates for attaching the rig to the boat. The chain plates are screwed to knees bonded to the inside of the hull.
Hello Gary. Another cracking vid. That saw (unless you made it) is likely to have the teeth facing backwards and is designed to do the cutting on the pull stroke as opposed to the push stroke you would use with a conventional hacksaw that is supported at (and tensioned by) the far end. This could be why you've found it to be successful in that direction. Joe.
Gotta say you are a top notch teacher. You are thorough, complete and methodical. I'll be looking at all your videos as I start to complete my Colin Archer ketch.
Glad to know that my videos might be helpful for you. Cheers !
The pelican hook jig is a great idea Gary! Seeing it up close and your demonstration of it's use was so helpful. I'm going to use one of my pelican hooks off my "Emma" and build a jig. I'll need it for my "Annie" build. Glad to see you posting videos Gary. I always learn something new and unique.
Thanks Tim, glad you found the video helpful. The jig makes it so easy to make hooks that you will probably want to build more boats !
Good to see you back on deck Gary.
Great timing. I noticed that you had a new video as I was getting ready to take my Irene and Flyer out for their first time on the water together.
Thanks again for for making this possible for us.
Thank you Warren, and all the others who bring the boats to life. Cheers !
I love your videos, always so informative and inspiring... You're a blessing to us all!
Thanks for the encouragement Hal.
I would watch your videos all day again.
Thanks Gary! Again, more handy tips! Clear cut excellent videos! I don't build large RC models as I don't have space for them. However, smaller models, sporting your blocks, your sewing, your suggestions, all benefit from your ideas as I build mantlepiece models.
Stay healthy Gary! I look forward to more of your videos!
Rodney Vancouver Island Canada
Glad to hear this Rodney, Thanks !
Keep on educating us with your experience and explanations. I enjoy your videos and always look forward to the next one. My “Annie” should be looking like a boat over the winter!
Thanks Larry for your kind words of encouragement. We'll look forward to a springtime launch of your 'Annie'.
That was beautifully explained again. Very enjoyable and full of information. Thanks. Tom (from France - now subscribed)
Another awesome video Gary. These help more than you know.
Stay safe.
Thanks Johnny !
Thank you for these excellent instructional videos. A wealth of info. I have your plans to build your Flyer when I retire, looking forward to that. Rob
Hi Gary, I am very impressed with your video on standing rigging. I am in the process of rigging a marblehead model yacht and I was interested in your pelican hook jig. Keep up the wonderful work you doing.
Thank you so much for making these excellent instructional videos. I always learn and get inspiration from them. Keep ‘em coming!
Thanks for your words of encouragement John !
Excellent video! Thanks Gary, just adore your presentation style. Some great information. Thank you soooo much!
So much fun to watch. I plan to order one of your boats. Thank you
Hallo Gary,
Thank You for these coole Videos.
I bought the plans in the set.
Very well done. Thanks very much.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to do it, great help for a newbie!
Love your videos (and plans) Gary. This is very helpful for me to see how you do the standing rigging, this settles a lot of questions I had in my mind. My yet unnamed Schooner built to the Irene plans is coming right along, hope to be sailing by this summer.
Your giving me inspiration Gary. Thank you.
Great video, very explanatory, I love the details!
Brilliant presentation, learnt a lot, thanks from U.K.
Really like these videos! Getting ready to start building the Sloop Emma! Would love to see a video about the cooper tubing!
gracias por enseñarnos tu magia Gary, pronto empezare la construcción de mi bote
Отлично ..... Век живи - век учись .... Спасибо за информацию .... Просто и оригинально ..... Удачи . !!!!!
Answers to so many questions I was not capable of even asking
Thanks for sharing 👍
You're welcome ! Always happy to talk boats !
Thank you! This is very helpful for my Flyer build. I was getting rather stuck at this point! Do you use the same whipping twine for tying on the blocks? Flyer’s gaff block assembly gets very busy!
Hi Fred, Thanks for asking, yes, I do use this same whipping twine to tie on blocks as well as lashings for sail tacks & clews etc.
I enjoy your videos very much. Do you have a dimensioned drawing of the pelican hooks to use to make a jig? Thank you.
Thanks, good info. FYI, lobster fishing we only put 3 tucks in our rope, never let go. I sometimes tapered to 2 then 1 strand more.
Thanks for that input. I suppose the type of rope used makes a big difference. Cheers !
@@sailtails2775 your splices looked real nice, nothing wrong there. 😊
Thanks Gary love watching all your videos
I’m about to start my first boat ( Emma ) which I hope to call Muriel Rose after my gran my daughter got me the plans will be
watching videos over and over I’m sure Thanks again
Excellent video Gary. Thank you so much. :)
Thanks Garry, I love your your videos , they are great at explaining your ideas and methods. in a way that we can all understand and use. I am just starting my adventure into rc sailing and have Irene all kitted up ready to start assembly. I also love the pelican hook jig, and will certainly be making one myself. At this stage, my only question is how do you finish the outside of your hulls under the paintwork, do you rely on the penetrating epoxy or do you use a glass matting to add strength to them? Thankyou in advance for any time you might give to respond to my question. Happy sailing, Andrew
Thanks for asking Andrew, some folks do use a layer of fiberglass cloth.
I have no objection to that but I simply rely on the penetrating epoxy to seal the plywood (and wood) inside & out.
Lots of options for paint, but I like oil based enamels, brushed on. Here's what I do.
Inside the hull I paint with 1 coat of oil based undercoater followed by 2 coats of oil based enamel.
Outside of the hull I build up a base of oil based enamel undercoater, sanded between coats with 220 grit, until the surface is as smooth as I want it to be. Probably 3 or 4 coats. I don't seek perfection, but achieve maybe "90%".
Finally I paint with 2 or 3 coats of oil based enamel, sanded lightly between coats with 320 grit. This is the protective layer.
Add trim stripes or "bottom paint" color over the protective enamel. Spray can paints ok for the trim. Cheers !
Hi there. I love your video’s. Im trying to build a sailboat but I don’t quite get how to do the steering. How do I prevent leakage?
A wooden block is glued to the bottom of the hull, inside the hull at the location of the rudder. This block stands tall enough to extend above the water line. A hole is drilled thru this block for the rudder stock. Water will not rise (much) above the water line so the upper end of rudder stock is high and dry inside the hull. Cheers !
Rather than stainless I found copper wire 12 gage more flexible, easier to work, for all my rigging needs. Popsicle sticks are handier for making the rigging blocks, just a dash of super glue and minor sanding, they take well to stain and sealer. One more idea, rather than pinning the hatches down, use the small magnets and a metal plate to keep them down. H/F has them but I guess any craft store would also.
I use a lot of waxed dental floss in my boat building. It is very strong, light, flexible, water resistant and super glue works on it very well.
Hi Gary do you still sell the plans for the Flyer? If so I would like to buy the paper plans. Thanks,Jack
Thanks for asking, Yes plans for 'FLYER' are available.
PRINTED PAPER PLANS for Bearospace boats are available from Flying Models:
store.flying-models.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35_36
PDF PLANS for Bearospace boats are available from Bearospace Industries:
www.bearospaceindustries.com/boats2.html
You don't need a pelican hook or Aluminum tube , All that is required piece of plastic a bit larger then the line you using. What you do is put the shroud or line that coming down from the mast, putting through two hole making the line push the piece of plastic in a direction, all about 1/4 the length of the line, then pull on the line through the hole or loop at the deck, then put the line through the other two holes, the coming up needs to go through the most farthest away from the line to make the jamming system/ adjusting line system. this to get read of weight on the boat .
Interesting. I build more modern RC designs. I make my rigging from 1/32" stainless aircraft cable. I turn the end fittings from 316 stainless steel rod on my lathe and mill in slots as needed. I silver solder the wire into the fittings. To adjust the stays and shrouds I machine 316 stainless turnbuckles to scale. The stays and shrouds are attached to the mast with stainless fittings and #80 screws and I make stainless chain plates for attaching the rig to the boat. The chain plates are screwed to knees bonded to the inside of the hull.
good tips thank-you
Thanks John !
Hello Gary.
Another cracking vid.
That saw (unless you made it) is likely to have the teeth facing backwards and is designed to do the cutting on the pull stroke as opposed to the push stroke you would use with a conventional hacksaw that is supported at (and tensioned by) the far end. This could be why you've found it to be successful in that direction.
Joe.